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iPhone 8 Plus Battery Replacement

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Written By: Adam O'Camb (and 5 other contributors)
  • Comments: 25
  • Favorites: 7
  • Completions: 90

Featured Guide

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

35

Time Required

30 minutes - 2 hours

Sections

7

Flags

1

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Introduction

Use this guide to revive your iPhone 8 Plus with a new battery. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

This guide instructs you to fully detach the display assembly; this is intended to prevent accidental damage to the display cables. If you feel comfortable removing the battery without putting undue strain on the display cables, you can skip the steps for detaching the display. Additionally, while it’s possible to remove the adhesive strips securing the battery as soon as you open the phone, this guide recommends first removing the Taptic Engine. Doing so reduces the risk of breaking the lower adhesive strips accidentally, either by snagging them on the Taptic Engine, or by pulling the strips at too sharp of an angle.

For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least two more hours. Then use your iPhone until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

Video Overview

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.5 mm pentalobe screws from the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Edit

    what do I do about super stripped screws?

    Ean Palacios - Reply

    I’m sorry, your comment slipped past my radar earlier. For future fixers that might see this and ask the same question, you can check out our stripped screw guide for some detailed advice.

    Adam O'Camb -

    Do you need a toolkit like the essential toolkit

    Adam Palmer - Reply

    Hi Adam. Having a tool kit with all of the listed parts above is best. The screw heads are very small and each set of screws needs a very specific type of driver to remove them without stripping any of them.

    Kyle Luksa -

  2. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    Edit

  3. Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button. Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    Edit

    Warning ! If you pull too hard (reheat the underside of the display again), you create an gap of air between the glass and the lcd display !

    When you replace the display assembly you end up with gray stains on the display.

    Result: you have to buy a new display (assembly).

    Arnoud - Reply

    Using just the single suction cup that is included in the battery replacement kit probably wouldn’t open the device. An iOpener and an iSlack should be the recommended method. However, you can get it open with just the single suction cup and iOpener, but does take a lot of time.

    Get an iOpener and iSlack with the battery replacement kit.

    Chris - Reply

    I used a flat x-acto (#18) blade knife tool to gently pry back the screen enough to allow me to insert the pick near the bottom corner. I then worked the pick under the screen as mentioned in steps 5 & 6 below then. This worked really well for me.

    Kyle Luksa - Reply

  4. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Insert an opening pick or other thin pry tool a few millimeters into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert an opening pick or other thin pry tool a few millimeters into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    Edit

  5. Slide your pick around the corner and up the left edge of the phone, moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place. Stop near the top left corner of the display. Stop near the top left corner of the display.

    • Slide your pick around the corner and up the left edge of the phone, moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Stop near the top left corner of the display.

    Edit

  6. Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

    • Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.

    • Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

    Edit

    I had really good luck using a hairdryer on some of the more stubborn portions of adhesive.

    Jessica Kirsh - Reply

  7. Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.

    • Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.

    • Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.

    Edit

  8. Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

    Edit

  9. Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive. Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive. Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

    • Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

    Edit

  10. Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case. Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

    • Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

    Edit

  11. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board. Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    Edit

    Das “links” ist auf dem Foto rechts.

    Matze Diamond - Reply

  12. Remove four Phillips (JIS) screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths: Two 1.3 mm screws
    Tool used on this step:
    Magnetic Project Mat
    $19.99

    • Remove four Phillips (JIS) screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • One 1.4 mm screw

    • One 2.7 mm screw

    • Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.

    Edit

  14. Remove the lower display cable bracket.

    • Remove the lower display cable bracket.

    Edit

  15. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

    Edit

    When I reassembled the iPhone 8 Plus, I had to plug it into a Lightning cable to wake it up (just pushing power button wasn’t sufficient).

    browniestarmite - Reply

  16. Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the large lower display connector by prying it straight up from its socket. To re-attach press connectors like this one, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the large lower display connector by prying it straight up from its socket.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    Edit

    I got hold of a iPhone 8 Plus with cracked screen that I am planning to fix.

    Here is my problem:

    When I tried to take out the screen from my phone, (step 15-18) I was curious about the new screen, so I tried to connect it. It was completely dead! Then I tried the old cracked one, and suddenly that was dead to! This is a phone that some fool has been inside earlier and changed battery, but I suspect he has done some more really stupid things. The Taptic Engine is living its own life and vibrating every time I slightly touch the home button. (I have a new Taptic Engine) The phone is also full of dust and small particles that does not belong there. One tri-point Y000 screw (step 18) is even missing! Now the biggest problem is that both screens are black! I know the phone is on, because I hear voice command speak when I turn on the power. The screen worked before I tried to change it? And one last thing: My new LCD screen came with new flex cables. Is it possible to switch over, so I can use the old ones?

    smikalsen - Reply

    Hi,

    Is your problem solved?

    Daniel Leprince -

  17. Disconnect the second lower display cable connector, directly behind the one you disconnected in the previous step. Disconnect the second lower display cable connector, directly behind the one you disconnected in the previous step.

    • Disconnect the second lower display cable connector, directly behind the one you disconnected in the previous step.

    Edit

    I used the other end of the spudger on this connector and it seemed to work a little better for me. I came in from underneath the top-right edge instead of the bottom right.

    Jessica Kirsh - Reply

  18. Remove the two tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector: One 1.0 mm screw

    • Remove the two tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector:

    • One 1.0 mm screw

    • One 1.2 mm screw

    Edit

    una vite da 1mm e due viti da 1.2 mm???

    Matteo Carachino - Reply

    Ciao Matteo! Grazie per l’osservazione. Ho appena modificato il testo :) La traduzione è aperta a tutti. Hai quindi la possibilità di fare le tue suggestione direttamente nel testo e sei il benvenuto se vuoi usare di questa possibilità nel futuro. Grazie ancora per la vigilanza! Saluti, Claire

    Claire Rapp -

    The tool kit does include a 1.0 or1.2mm screwdriver! How am I supposed to remove those screws?

    peter frommer - Reply

    Bought the screwdriver that supposedly fits these screws and it still doesn’t work.

    hypercarduser - Reply

    My bracket looks different. Can’t get these screws out.

    Ray Rushing - Reply

  19. Remove the bracket covering the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Remove the bracket covering the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    Edit

  20. Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket. Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket.

    • Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket.

    Edit

  21. Remove the display assembly.
    Edit

  22. Remove the three screws securing the L-shaped bracket next to the Taptic Engine: One 1.3 mm Y000 screw

    • Remove the three screws securing the L-shaped bracket next to the Taptic Engine:

    • One 1.3 mm Y000 screw

    • One 2.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 3.5 mm Phillips screw

    Edit

  23. Remove the bracket.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Edit

  24. Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhered portion of the antenna flex cable from the top surface of the speaker. This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered in place. If necessary, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This makes it easier to separate (and re-adhere) the flex cable safely. This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered in place. If necessary, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This makes it easier to separate (and re-adhere) the flex cable safely.

    • Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhered portion of the antenna flex cable from the top surface of the speaker.

    • This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered in place. If necessary, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This makes it easier to separate (and re-adhere) the flex cable safely.

    Edit

  25. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable from the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable from the logic board.

    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable from the logic board.

    Edit

  26. Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the other end of the antenna flex cable from its socket, next to the Lightning Port. Reconnecting this cable can be tricky. Make it easier by using your tweezers to hold the flex cable so the connector aligns with its socket. Then, gently press down on the connector with the flat of your spudger until it clicks into place. Reconnecting this cable can be tricky. Make it easier by using your tweezers to hold the flex cable so the connector aligns with its socket. Then, gently press down on the connector with the flat of your spudger until it clicks into place.

    • Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the other end of the antenna flex cable from its socket, next to the Lightning Port.

    • Reconnecting this cable can be tricky. Make it easier by using your tweezers to hold the flex cable so the connector aligns with its socket. Then, gently press down on the connector with the flat of your spudger until it clicks into place.

    Edit

  27. Remove the Wi-Fi diversity antenna.

    • Remove the Wi-Fi diversity antenna.

    Edit

  28. Remove the three screws securing the Taptic Engine: Two 1.5 mm Phillips screws
    Tool used on this step:
    Standoff Screwdriver for iPhones
    $8.99

    • Remove the three screws securing the Taptic Engine:

    • Two 1.5 mm Phillips screws

    • One 2.4 mm standoff screw

    • Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    Edit

  29. Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable. Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable.

    • Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable.

    Edit

  30. Remove the Taptic Engine.

    • Remove the Taptic Engine.

    Edit

  31. The iPhone 8 Plus's battery is secured by four pieces of stretch-release adhesive—two at the top, and two at the bottom.

    • The iPhone 8 Plus's battery is secured by four pieces of stretch-release adhesive—two at the top, and two at the bottom.

    • Each piece of adhesive has a black pull-tab at the end, which is lightly adhered to the front surface of the battery.

    Edit

  32. Peel back the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom right edge of the battery. If possible, use your fingernails or blunt tweezers. Be careful not to poke the battery with any sharp tools. If possible, use your fingernails or blunt tweezers. Be careful not to poke the battery with any sharp tools.

    • Peel back the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom right edge of the battery.

    • If possible, use your fingernails or blunt tweezers. Be careful not to poke the battery with any sharp tools.

    Edit

  33. Try to keep the adhesive strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; twisted or wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly. Additionally, do not press down on the battery as you pull the strips. Pressing on the battery creates pressure points that can snag and break the adhesive. Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, towards the bottom of the iPhone.

    • Try to keep the adhesive strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; twisted or wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

    • Additionally, do not press down on the battery as you pull the strips. Pressing on the battery creates pressure points that can snag and break the adhesive.

    • Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, towards the bottom of the iPhone.

    • Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at as low an angle as possible, without snagging it on any of the iPhone's other components.

    • The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.

    • If the battery adhesive tabs break during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.

    • If any of the adhesive strips break underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove the remaining strips, and then proceed as instructed below.

    Edit

  34. Repeat the above steps to remove the remaining three adhesive strips. Be sure to hold onto the battery as you remove the final strip, or it may fling out of the iPhone unexpectedly.

    • Repeat the above steps to remove the remaining three adhesive strips.

    • Be sure to hold onto the battery as you remove the final strip, or it may fling out of the iPhone unexpectedly.

    • If you removed all of the adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.

    • If any of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, continue with the next step below.

    Edit

  35. If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, remove it by adding a few drops of isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) underneath the battery near the stuck strip(s). After about a minute, gently lift the battery. Don't try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.

    • If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, remove it by adding a few drops of isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) underneath the battery near the stuck strip(s). After about a minute, gently lift the battery.

    • Don't try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.

    • If you choose to use pry tools to lift the battery out of the iPhone, use extreme caution or you may damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath the battery.

    • If the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery. This will help soften the adhesive.

    • Heat the iPhone until the rear case is slightly too hot to comfortably touch. Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.

    • Alternatively, thread a strong piece of string (such as dental floss or a length of thin guitar string) underneath the battery.

    • Pull the string from side to side in a sawing motion all along the length of the battery to separate the adhesive. Do not deform or damage the battery.

    • To protect your fingers, wear gloves or wrap the string ends around a tool (such as the two screwdriver handles shown in the image).

    Edit

  36. Remove the battery from the iPhone.

    • Remove the battery from the iPhone.

    • If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, slide off and remove the sleeve before installation.

    • If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.

    • Before you adhere the replacement battery, temporarily reconnect the battery connector to the logic board socket. This ensures that the battery is properly aligned in its recess.

    • Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.

    • If your new battery doesn’t have adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide to replace the adhesive strips.

    • Perform a force restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

    Edit
Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

90 other people completed this guide.

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Adam O'Camb

Member since: 04/11/2015

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7 Comments

Add a comment

Do I have to remove the display to replace the battery? Or can I leave the display in

Peter - Reply

You can leave the display connected and skip steps 15-20, as long as you’re careful to support the display so as not to damage the display cables while you work.

Jeff Suovanen -

Don’t do it,you can EASILY RIP LCD RIBBON CABLE

Vegeta Barrett -

Are there any statistics or even educated guesses about how many people are able to successfully complete this repair? Although it is rated as “moderate” in terms of difficulty, I would rate it as more than just moderate. I tried to replace the battery on a much older iPhone and wound up with a brick. Is an 8 plus easier than an iPhone 3 or 4? Where might one find such statistics?

d10boe - Reply

The new internal configuration was a little more difficult but take your time and have a rice bag or iOpener for the additional adhesive in these models.

The battery adhesive is always problematic for me but the dental floss tip in this guide worked great!

Russ Rehm - Reply

Can I make my own adhesive tape by trimming standard 3M double-sided tape to fit?

Joel - Reply

Home Button Not Working After Battery Replacement

Bacon - Reply

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