Introduction
Use this guide to revive your iPhone 8’s battery life and performance with a new battery. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
This guide instructs you to completely detach the display assembly. This is intended to prevent accidental damage to the display cables. If you feel comfortable removing the battery without putting undue strain on the display cables, you can skip the steps for detaching the display.
While it’s possible to remove the adhesive strips securing the battery as soon as you open the phone, the written guide strongly recommends first removing the Taptic Engine. Pull-stretch adhesives are designed to be pulled at a shallow angle. Doing so reduces the risk of breaking the lower adhesive strips accidentally, either by snagging them on the Taptic Engine, or by pulling the strips at too sharp of an angle.
For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least two more hours. Then use your iPhone until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.
What you need
Video Overview
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Remove the two 3.5 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
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Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.
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Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
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Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
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Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap.
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Skip the next three steps.
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Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
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Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the phone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.
Hello,
What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help
Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)
I used a heated tea kettle and a tea towel, it worked!
I put on the furnace vent for 10 minutes to get it warm to the touch but not hot.
I attached it to the after burner of my rocket ship and that worked.
I used a water-filled ziploc bag, heated it in microwave. fast, cheap, worked.
The most effective way to heat up the glue is to leave the phone in full sun - if it's available. In fact I would always wait for a sunny day to repair any glued together Apple device. The heat will be very even and the phone was probably designed to survive anything the sun can throw at it - although it can get very warm. (I'm in the UK) If you leave the phone turned on it will give a warning if it goes near the temperature limit.
I'm sorry but I tried both the hair dryer (for 3 minutes!) and the eye opener (also 3 minutes) and no luck. Not even a hint of loosening the adhesive holding down the display!! Do I send this kit back for a refund or what??!!
No luck, guys. 3 minutes of hair drying and 3 minutes heating up the iopener. What next?
Okay, a half hour later i finally got the screen loose, but not after super heating it for at leat 10 minutes with a hair drying and burning my hand trying to pry it open. Also, watch out for the power button because it inadvertently keeps switching the phone back on while you wrestle with it. More later . . .
. . . and now I need to buy a new phone!!! the cable broke as I was trying to unscrew one of the top screws, so thanks! I FIXed IT but Good!!!!
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Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.
Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.
As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …
Patience is the key here. Expletives and patience. Like previous comments say, putting the suction cup over the home button (I used packing tape to maintain the seal) will allow you to apply force to the proper location to separate the screen. Good luck!
Get a suction cup pliers. It’ll make this part fun
iSclack EVO opened the iPhone easily even without heating with no fear of accidentally over-opening it like with a simple suction cup.
If you don't have the anti-clamp device, to prevent the screen from tearing open when suctioning it, I suggest some layers of tape around it and the back of the phone (the tape has to be stretchy enough to just minimise the momentum when separating the screen), or some big rubberbands
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Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the screen and the frame.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap.
Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!
I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(
Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.
Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.
Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.
Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.
- For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.
- Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.
In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.
Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.
I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?
After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...
- I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button
- the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip
- tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in
- leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick
Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.
I struggled with a hair dryer at first and a singular suction cup. However, I tried putting packing tape on the spot where I put the suction job (even though my screen isn't cracked) and I was able to do it first try with ease. Definitely recommend packing tape.
Suction cup pliers. Dead easy
After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all - if you’re using force, you’re doing it wrong. Heat, very very gentle exact-o knife barely down then fully under the screen below the home button … perfect. Slow and patient around the upper corners, and don’t forget to heat there as well! Thank you all!
The problems with this step are (1) not having three hands and (2) managing to hold the phone in a way that doesn't put reverse pressure somewhere else on the screen. Exacto knife was the best tip. It's a little dangerous. On a misstep you may scratch the screen or jab yourself, but it's what got me in.
I used a razor blade and plenty of heat, and it somehow worked like a charm at the cost of me cutting myself. Definitely be careful when doing this, I used the razor blade on the left side of the iphone then wedged in a small screwdriver and then used the pick to cut the rest of the material away.
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Slide the opening pick up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.
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Stop near the top left corner of the display.
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I was trying to replace my battery, and accidentally cut one of the cords on my screen. I marked my pick, so i don't know how it happened.
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Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.
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Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.
I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help
I have been using the pointed tweezers to pull the adhesive strands apart and out as the display comes off.
This bit was awkward as to get a good grip I kept inadvertently switching the %#*@ phone on!
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Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
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Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!
Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!
“Up from the left” means lift up the left side.
Which is the same as folding to the right.
“Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.
Maybe it gets lost in translation?
Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!
When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!
Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!
DO NOT LAY THE TWO HALVES FLAT!!! There is a reason why the third photo shows the screen half leaning against a box! This really needs to be a warning in addition to the one about not separating the display.
If you're skipping the screen and taptic engine removal like I did, I suggest you tape the back of the phone to the table, and also tape the screen to the vertical object it lays on, so it stays still. That way you will avoid having to constantly readjust it because of the sliding of the housing of the phone when you're working on it. Be careful where you're putting the tape on the screen though, if you're doing it on the internal components.
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Remove four Phillips screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:
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Two 1.3 mm screws
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Two 2.8 mm screws
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Remove the bracket.
Not Y000 this time haha
It is not ideal, but possible for these screws.
using the repair kit i purchased with my screen replacement, i am currently having issues removing these screws with the PH000. please help
I was too, thankfully I had another set that contained the PH00 bit, that worked great for me.
Ok. My screw is stuck. How do I remove it? Philips head is stripped.
Solved it myself. Firm pressure did the trick.
took me awhile to figure out I needed to use PHOO bit for the 2 -1.3 screws
It is important to keep careful track of the screws' position. Have a tidy workplace -- a few times when I tried to re-attach the very tiny screws with the tweezer, they slipped and flew away and I almost lost them.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector out of its socket in the logic board.
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Bend the battery connector cable slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.
Make sure you pry the battery connector off from the right hand side as shown in the picture. Theres a delicate component on the logicboard near the battery connector called a Mosfet which is linked to the battery charging software. If you knock it off accidently you’ll loose battery charging and the phone will boot loop and youll need to have it re-soldered back on.
I can confirm this as I learned my lesson by unknowingly prying the mosfet off. The phone will not charge now and is useless. I really wish they would add a note about this on Step 12 as a warning.
Jeff -
So this is it. You don’t have to go any further removing the screen. You can replace the battery right from this point.
I wish I saw this comment 2 hours ago
If I have to repeat this, I'd also consider removing replacing the battery at this point. The loose display must be then carefully fixed so the connectors don't break. And then it is not possible to re-attach the waterproof seal.
The waterproof seal was included in the kit, but there were no instructions for it so I now skipped that. I later found YouTube video which seems to describe it (starting at 7:40):
This is where I broke my phone, a phone that was working quite well, paid for in full. Just because I had a cracked screen. Be super careful when connecting the cables. I was in a hurry and not paying attention, used too much force when re-connecting and broke those teeny little pins that could not be repaired. A tech tried for an hour to no avail. cautionary tale. Good luck
The display ribbon is a certain length and allows for some give, but behind it is hidden the Home button/TouchID ribbon, which sits against what amounts to a razor blade. This ribbon is much more taut than the display one, and therefore you have far less freedom of movement than you think you do. This is absolutely an intentional trap to discourage replacing your own battery. Quite frankly, it’s despicable.
Anyway, so beware of that, because although I was very careful and did not even swing the screen very far (not more than 90°), the Home button ribbon tore and now needs to be serviced. Home button is disabled now.
Apple should be ashamed of themselves for this. Please do look at the legislation effort that people are doing to try to get this kind of sabotage illegal, as well as all sorts of other gimmicks they pull. For a company that makes phenomenal products, they’re controlling like an abusive spouse.
Dan Knight
That happened to me and I could not figure out how it got broken. It's the home button and fingerprint reader.
But I'm not bothering to get it fixed and I'm not replacing the entire screen. I went into system prefs/accessibility and activated the on-screen home button. Oh, well.
I cannot get the new battery reconnected to the connection port. Any tips/tricks? New and old battery connections appear similar. It wasn't difficult to disconnect to old battery.
Some reports here seem to indicate that the battery must be the very last connector to re-connect because otherwise there might be malfunction in some display components?
It wasn't difficult to disconnect to old battery. But the most difficult part for me was to get the new battery reconnected to the connection port. I tried many times to carefully position and press it down with my fingertip or the flat end of the spudger but it did not hold its position. Maybe I pressed too weak because I was afraid breaking the connector and the mosfet above (?) it. But finally to my surprise it connected (at that point I temporarily booted the iPhone with the loose display to verify that the battery was connected). Whew, it succeeded!
The connectors have very little "click" to them when they do seat properly, and are covered with soft foam. Very challenging to attach them by feel, and having the screen propped up, blocks light from exactly where you need it.
Make sure the new battery connector cable has similar length and width to the one of the original battery. I got a third party battery and the cable was longer and not folded in a "U" way near the connector, like the one in the genuine battery was, only folded at a 90 degree angle. That "U" actually perfectly fits in the small space between battery and connector port, so the cable doesn't stick up thus making connecting it or closing the screen impossible. So fold the cable, connect it, and while holding it to prevent it from disconnecting, stick the battery so the "U" curve of the cable sits down just between battery and connector port.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry the lower display connector out of its socket.
I broke the lower display connector. Is it possible to replace that part separately or do I need to buy a full screen replacement?
You need to buy a new screen
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Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.
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Remove the bracket.
If you are replacing the adhesive liner, the remaining release liner strips will interfere with the two outer screws. I had to cut a working section out of the liner at each location and move it aside with the spudger.
This part is throwing me for a loop. Having difficulty finding the read head for these screws. Is it the same size as the two small 1.3mm screws in step 12?
These are the same size screws mentioned in Step 17.
ended up getting it with the PH000, I must of just been rushing it.
My bracket looks different and none of the screw heads I have fits.
Mine too? Any help?
These screws did not stick to the magnetic screwdriver. Extremely difficult to get them back in place - but with some patience i succeeded :)
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Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.
Do you have a link for the flex cord shown in the pictures so I can purchase it? Having a hard time locating that exact assembly
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Remove the display assembly.
Hi ifixit, if you find my method dangerous, please remove it.
After Step 17, I skipped Step 18 to Step 28.
At Step 29, I lifted up the four adhesive black pull-tabs to expose the white adhesive side. Next, I use hot air gun and blow on the back cover of the iphone for about a minute (maybe a hairdryer will work too) .
Warning: Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.
I think the temperature was around 60 DegC.
Extreme Caution: Do Not overheat. I use my hand to gauge the hotness. Careful not to burn yourself or the board.
I was able to pull out all the white adhesive tapes easily as the adhesive soften.
DO NOT TRY this method if you are a novice or inexperience! I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or damage your iphone!
Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!
From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.
I agree with John, skip 18 through 27. These are to make it easier to remove the battery adhesive. I replaced the batteries on two IPhone 8s. The first one I did all that stuff and the adhesive still broken and I had to carefully pry the battery out anyway. When I reassembled the phone the Home button no longer worked. Looking it up, this is apparently fairly common due to all the fragile wires involved in these steps. The second I skipped these steps and when I reassembled it everything worked fine. Not one of the eight (both phones) adhesive strips came out properly. I fully drained the batteries before doing the repairs. By the way, I use the virtual home button on the one phone, it’s a little annoying, but the phone is still usable if you’re not ready to shell out for a new phone.
I also skipped removing the Taptic Engine. I could only half-way pull the lower battery tapes and completely the upper tapes after carefully prying them loose with the tweezer. I then used a hair-dryer for a minute to warm the battery and the other side of the phone (I used my other hand to make sure I did not apply too much heat. Make sure you do not blow the tiny loose screws away with the hair dryer!) and then slowly lifted the upper battery somewhat with the Opening pics tool, then re-heated the lower remaining tapes and quite easily lifted the battery out.
I had bought two-sided tape to reconnect the battery but it had the tapes pre-installed (I wonder if it is necessary to tape the battery at all?).
I also skipped these steps. I won’t say it was entirely successful - two of the four adhesive strips broke and could not be grabbed with tweezers. But I had gotten most of the adhesive out already and the battery was quite loose, so I used a warmer under the phone, then gently slid a flat plastic blade under one end of the battery and slowly worked it up the phone. (Dental floss would have been safer-don’t do what I did, kids!)
Likely can skip step 18-28 and all the risks. Battery tape is relatively removable by the following method
- use a tweezer to pull up a corner of each tape. Then use fingers to peel back all the black tab on top of battery
- use 2 hands. Index and thumb on both. Pull about 1/4” with one hand, hold the tension and pull 1/4” with the other hand. Alternate, go slow. Pull out all 4 tape completely. I think the pause after each 1/4” while holding the stretched tape firmly prevents the tape from over stretching to become too thin and break.
- Don’t apply heat, I would guess that makes tape softer and break easier.
Have tried other methods and failed in the past. Pulling too fast (tape will snap) or use a tweezer to twist/roll (sharp edges will cut tape) Anyway, just use index/thumb on both hands and alternately pull slowly
I did do 2 iPhone 8 battery change this way. One removed all tape without breaking. Another broken all 4 tape after about 1/3 pulled so likely some factory assembly differeces.
I second this, this method works well in most cases. Removing the haptics helps to keep the angle low and pulling the tape as straight as possible
Howards method for removing the adhesive works like a charm. The only addition I made was to slightly warm the back of the iphone on a rice pack (used for sore neck muscles—haha). Going back and forth between hands is really crucial. While on hand gives a gentle pull, the other holds the phone from moving. Slow back and forth. Thanks.
Struggling with the glued down display, then properly cleaning all the remains of the old seal, then positioning the new seal is 95% of this job. I purchased my phone refurbished and it clearly had already been serviced once, there were remnants of an old seal below the current seal due to improper cleaning and prep that made getting the phone open harder than it needed to be.
For my 2nd iPhone 8 battery replacement, I chose not to remove the display completely, or the Taptic Engine and I was successful. You have to pay extra attention and it is a bit trickier to keep the display from moving around too much, but I think minimizing the amount of screws and connections to take out, the better. You can easily lose the screws and you have to mind which ones go where, as there are so many different lengths. YMMV.
In retrospect, I also would have skipped ahead to step 33. I didn't, but my efforts at removing the adhesive tape were also unsuccessful so steps 23-33 were for naught. Ended up applying isopropyl alcohol, then warming the back, and finally just physically levered the battery out. Battery was slightly deformed and became slightly warm, so as soon as I got it out I just put it outside on a brick.
But the replacement worked.
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Remove the three screws securing the bracket next to the Taptic Engine:
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One 1.3 mm Y000 screw
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One 2.7 mm Phillips screw
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One 2.9 mm Phillips screw
My phone had Phillips screws in all three places, so I did not need the Y000 screwdriver bit.
I don’t see the point in steps 18-27 if we’re only changing the battery. I pulled out the sticky tape with taptic and all this other jazz still intact. Am I missing something? Reconnecting that taptic connection cost me 5 years off my life, needlessly.
Hey William!
We instruct people to remove the Taptic Engine in order to minimize the chance that the battery adhesive will tear when you try to pull it out. The steep angle you have to pull the adhesive with the Taptic Engine installed dramatically increases the chance that the adhesive will break under the battery.
since the sticky tape will usually tear anyway and it is no big deal, I agree stop at this point and take the battery out. Too many things can go wrong removing more screws and connecting/disconnecting all the connectors. Go to video instructions at this point. Wish I did.
My tape tore away and now my home button does not work, which from what I see is to do with the tapic engine. It seems to be more dangerous to do that than to use heat and pry the battery out (which I had to do anyway). You should at least put in an warning/option for users.
Hi Gary,
The Home button connector is not related to the Taptic Engine and should not be affected by anything close to the battery adhesive. I would suggest carefully disconnecting and reconnecting the screen connectors, and make sure that there is no debris on the contacts. Be sure to disconnect the battery before you do this, or you will risk damaging the screen.
Glad I stopped and watched the video at this point and skipped this step. Totally unnecessary, I used the iopener and heated the back of the phone before removing the battery with a pick and “ifixit card” came out easily. Not my first battery replacement.
Kompletter bullshit!! Im Video wird es anders gezeigt und die Schritte 18-27 werden komplett ausgelassen. Ist auch viel besser so, da so das Risiko, dass man die Taptic Engine schrottet, wie es mir jetzt beim ausbauen passiert ist, einfach nicht vorhanden ist. Ich kann auch nicht nachvollziehen, warum man in einer schriftlichen Anleitung zum Akku Wechsel komplett andere Schritte schildert als im Video. An der Stelle hat iFixit deutlich versagt. Ein Haufen Splasher…
Hallo Maximilian, du hast Recht, im Video wird die kürzere Methode gezeigt. Der Ausbau des Akkus ist für viele Menschen jedoch sehr schwer, wenn die Taptic Engine noch verbaut ist. Deshalb empfiehlt die Anleitung den Ausbau der Taptic Engine.
Kann es sein das dieser Schritt falsch ist? Ich habe einen Y000 Schraubendreher aus dem Iphone 7 Set. Der passt aber nicht bei der roten Schraube.
The new part I received had two Phillips screws, so when you're doing the reverse, you may need to remove the screws from the new part before putting the old screws in, everything fit together otherwise
I really hope you guys not to skip these steps. it is really hard to pull out string with taptic engine. 4 of 3 strings were cutted when I treid to detach batteries with taptic engine. So, I really recommend you to get rid of taptic engine before you start this step. But if you skipped and strings are cutted, there is a way. Use hair dryer 90 secs as maximum hot behind the battries and detach the batteries. It worked to me.
The Y000 screw has an extremely shallow head and the screwdriver provided in the kit I used couldn't grip it at all. I skipped the entire taptic removal and was able to remove the adhesive with it in place by warming the phone then wrapping the end of the adhesive strips around a small screwdriver and gently rolling them out and away.
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Slide an opening pick under the antenna flex cable to hold the socket down.
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Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable from its socket, using the opening pick to hold the socket down.
Don’t worry if the socket lifts up a bit as you get it out. You’ll need to lift it up later (Step 25) so don’t push it back into place yet.
Every instruction online (including your YouTube video) leaves the Taptic Engine in place. This added step did not help with battery replacement, and led to an hour of frustration trying to get the connector back in place.
I noticed the same thing and wondered if it was necessary. Thanks
Yeah, I broke the connector off of my taptic engine trying to get it to reconnect to the lighting connector plate….freaking nightmare with that and the co-axe wifi connector……..I now have a working phone without haptics
dave -
I agree jgrsf
I was glad I had the Taptic Engine removed when I failed to remove the battery adhesives. It leaves more room to work around the battery.
I agree. And when reassembling the wifi antenna, I connected the two plugs first, which worked fine, and only after that stuck the antenna back to its sticky place.
dl7utx -
I was following this for replacing the loud speaker. I found that during reconnecting the antenna flex, I slightly rocked the taptic connector and it came lose. I was frustrated because my pre-close up test had everything working, then I shut it down, made sure everything was connected and put it all together (including a bang-on job on the display adhesive!!) and wham - no taptic responses.
Just finishing reseating it, fought with the antenna flex, then ensured the taptic connector was seated properly underneath. All good now.
i cant get the small screw to tighten to hold the bracket in place. it just spins. the 2.7mm screw that is supposed to go into the lower left bottom. the 2.9mm screw that goes in lower right bottom will also snug down on lower left. I somehow messed up the hole I guess. can i use an extra 2.9mm instead of 2.7 mm ? if i can find one ? thank you
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Remove the two screws securing the Taptic Engine:
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One 2.1 mm Phillips screw
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One 2.1 mm standoff screw
Why is this screwdriver bit not included in the fix kit?
It’s more important to get this unusual piece than a common Phillips head.
When reinstalling the standoff that connects to the Taptic Engine, I found that the pointy tip of the spudger fits really well into the little hole at the top of the standoff, and helps with getting it into place and screwing it down if you don’t have a screwdriver bit for the standoff. Hope this is helpful!
Be sure to look through all the packaging if you bought the iFixit replacement battery - the Standoff Screwdriver bit was in the package with the battery and screen adhesive (the box labeled “Repair Part”) rather than in with the tools (the box labeled “Repair Tools”).
Thanks! This really saved the day for me.
I just used a sharp knife for the orange one
I broke (twice) the ribbon cable on the tapic engine while trying to reinstall the taptic engine. I ended up taking the loudspeaker out which gave my finger a bit more room to press down and connect the cable to the phone. It was a royal PIA.
Such a nice kit, great instructions, and then not include the standoff bit…what a miss…
During reassembly, I inserted the stand-off screw by holding it with the provided tweezers and pushing it into place with the pointed spudger. While still pushing down with the pointed spudger to keep it from falling over, I turned the stand-off screw using the tweezers until it was firmly seated enough to let go of the spuder without the screw falling over. Then I was able to switch over to my 2.4mm flathead screwdriver and tighten it down. Otherwise the screw was jumping all over the place, magnetically attracted to the other components.
Disappointing that the stand-off screw bit was not provided with the kit. I expect better from iFixit.
It appears that some aspects of the iPhone SE 2022 (3rd gen SE) began to appear in later versions of the 2020 model. I have an SE 2020 (A2275) that has a grounding clip anchored by the Phillips screw on LH side of the Taptic engine. This clip was not present in the original SE 2020 and thus, doesn’t appear in the images for this step. If you want to get a good look at the clip’s location and orientation follow these links to the corresponding steps in the iFixit guide for the 3rd gen model and Apple's own repair guide.
SE 2022 (3rd gen) Lighting Connector Replacement -- Step 27
Apple iPhone Repair Manual for SE 2022 (3rd gen) -- See bottom of page 49
THANK YOU ! I looked through the photos again and again and didn’t find this little thing on them.. now I finally know where to place it :-)
Fabian -
I agree with the previous comments. What I suggest is to do not remove the taptic engine. It's very frustrating to put back the connector, you have a very little space. If you don't remove it, you still have the space to work with the battery.
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Use the point of your spudger to pry the antenna cable socket up and away from the connector below it.
Just a heads up, I found a small bit of adhesive tape between the antenna cable socket and the connector below.
Yep, I did find it too. Thanks
Hola,
Se me ha roto ese conector pequeño de la antena y no encuentro donde puedo comprar un repuesto. ¿Alguna idea?
Gracias
I also found adhesive between the antenna cable socket and the connector below. I was not able to separate the two (mediocre middle-aged vision and lack of leverage to create the separation), and therefore was not able to fully disconnect the haptic engine. Instead, I gently wriggled the haptic engine out and, leaving it connected, rotated it 180 degrees and out of the way toward the bottom right corner of the phone. I am hoping that I have not damaged the thin ribbon cable. On the up side, for the first time ever I was able to remove the adhesive strips from under the battery (they didn’t break).
I just want to follow up to say that I did not damage the thin ribbon cable connecting the Taptic Engine. I did forget to reconnect it, though. Once I got that straight, it worked fine.
I found that the Antenna cable socket is best to remain attached to the taptic engine cable has i find that it is very easy to brake.
I have in the past also broking the Taptic engine cable when trying to fit it to its sockets. the Taptic engine cable is very easy to brake so would advise that great care is taking when both fitting and removing.
Yep, broke my cable…hoping i can order a replacement taptic engine,,,,phone works without it, but no vibrator or haptics
dave -
What on earth is the secret to reconnecting the Taptic Engine?
I have been messing with it for hours.
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Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable.
I found that this cable was glued down with similar adhesive to the screen. It pulled away as I removed the taptic engine from the phone (next step).
My taptic engine had two screws on the lh side. still worked the same.
Be really careful here in the reassembly. I managed to rip the cable here, and now best case I won’t have any haptic feedback. :(
I’m sorry to hear that! If you’d like to get that fixed sometime, we do sell a replacement part!
On re-assembly, the taptic engine might not work. Before panicking, ensure that the taptic engine connector didn’t get dislodged when fighting to get the antenna flex reconnected.
on my A1905 iphone 8 - This is not correct!
There is an extra leg coming off the taptic engine’s flex cable with a micro-coax antenna connector going underneath the speaker!
You can’t take the engine off yet!!
I have the same issue and confirm the coax connector under the speaker …. can you buy this Taptic Engine anywhere? The one with the extra leg ?
James -
A hint for reassembly: carefully crease the ribbon cable upwards along the edge of the connector so the stiff ribbon doesn’t touch the engine, pushing the upper connector too far away from the engine to line up with the lower connector. Once the cable isn’t interfering, you don’t have to worry as much about breaking it or having it get in the way. It’s still tricky to get the connectors lined up. I had luck by using one set of tweezers to hold and stabilize the short sides of the upper connector (silver rectangle). I used another set of tweezers (spudger would also work) in my other hand to finesse the connector alignment and push the connectors together. Look carefully at the first photo in this step: the connector is almost exactly centered below the taptic engine screw.
Any suggestion on why the 2.7 mm screw no longer holds down the bracket. 2.9 mm screw works in either hole .but the 2.7 mm no longer secures the bracket, can I swap it out with another 2.9 mm screw?. And where do I find one. Will it work if it’s missing that screw? Space. I have an old iPhone SE maybe I can find 2.9 screw in that . Thanks
Re-assembling the Taptic Engine connector is difficult. After struggling unsuccessfully for 45 minutes I ended up bending up the metal tab on the right side of the phone with tweezers, then with the Taptic Engine tipped on end (not positioned in phone) I could get the cables connected. With the tab on the phone bent upward I was able to slide the mounting tab on the left side of the Taptic Engine under the tab on the left side of the phone case and then bend it back down. This needs to be done carefully to avoid damaging the cable on the Taptic Engine.
Be careful -- there are two cable connectors stacked on top of each other here, and you want to attach the taptic engine to the bottom one. When reattaching the taptic engine connector, make sure that the antenna connector is pulled back -- it is designed to sit right above the connector for the taptic engine, and just by memory it rests back in the same spot. Without reviewing the previous step in reverse, it would be easy to attempt to connect to the top socket, potentially causing damage.
There’s two cables here that are almost impossible to separate. I put some effort on the haptic cable and it immediately sheared off. I have no idea how you’re supposed to properly separate them
The reassembly is very difficult. The connector needs to be closer to the taptic engine than what the stiff ribbon allows. I had to bend the ribbon a bit with tweezers to narrow the gap between the connector and the taptic engine so that the connector would meet with the slot... after I spent half an hour trying to coax it.
I agree with the previous comments. What I suggest is to do not remove the taptic engine. It's very frustrating to put back the connector, you have a very little space. If you don't remove it, you still have the space to work with the battery.
Be careful the taptic engine cable is less then paper thin and tears with less resistance then a peice of paper, use extreme caution!!!!!
i ripped mine and after taking it out and testing the strength of the cable it took less force to tare then tearing a sheet of paper.
there is plenty of room for this cable to be three times as thick with no interference, this is just anti repair design.Taptic engine is hard to put back
Having the phone orientation taptic at the bottom, I used a pick vertically to the right of the connector (to the right of the stand off screw) to align the connector to the right place, then press it into place, glad that the pick is near the exact thickness needed to align the connector
Very difficult to reattach haptic ribbon into socket.
You have to use spluger tip on one side of ribbon connector (wedge on edge of connector) and push it towards the Taptic Engine.
Once the connector pushed against it and while the spluger is still in place holding it in position, then use other hand to gently push connector down to connect
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Remove the Taptic Engine.
Where there is the 2,1mm philips srew holding the taptic engine (left), there is a tiny piece of metal under the srewhead. Note its orientation, take it out and dont't lose it taking out the taptic engine, then reinstall it when reassembling. When reassembling, the said fixing hole of the taptic engine is not on top, but has to be pushed under a little metal piece, it won't even fit on top. Then reinstall the tiny metal piece and put the screw in.
So glad someone else mentioned this. This piece may be a late model revision. Looks like it adds additional grounding to a point on the frame. It's easy to misplace!
Demetri -
I damaged the graphite film underneath the battery while removing stubborn adhesive. Can I buy replacement graphite film? Should I remove it altogether since some sections ripped? What purpose does this serve? Thank you for any information.
Hi Anne,
The graphite film helps dissipate heat during wireless charging and to transfer heat out of the battery. It doesn't need to be in one complete piece in order to work—if the film can lay flat, I'd leave it in place.
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Each piece of adhesive has a black pull-tab at the end, which is lightly adhered to the front surface of the battery.
Be careful prying around the side button connector when trying to remove the top tabs. There is very little room to maneuverer
£ Tapes broke on me so I applied iISOPROPYL ALCOHOL using an Eye Dropper waited 30 seconds tHen heated up some oil in the bag rice for 2 minutes on 700W and the applied the unopened packet to the back of the iPhone for 90 seconds.
Themn I used an out of date credit card with the raised numbers facing down to easily release the battery.
David Howard
Great tip! Worked perfectly and easy. Thanks.
It should read heated up some boil in the bag rice
David Howard
Very difficult. be very careful on the limited space end that you don't puncture the battery!
I really hope you guys not to skip steps for detaching taptick engine because it is really hard to pull out string with taptic engine. 4 of 3 strings were cutted when I treid to detach batteries with taptic engine. So, I really recommend you to get rid of taptic engine before you start this step. But if you skipped and strings are cutted, there is a way. Use hair dryer 90 secs as maximum hot behind the battries and detach the batteries. It worked to me.
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Peel back the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom right edge of the battery.
Vor Schritt 30 umbedingt die Rückseite des iPhone erwärmen. Ich habe das iPhone 10 Minuten auf eine heiße Wärmflasche gelegt.
Strongly suggest you remove the display. Also the picture shows the "perfect world" it is far ore difficult to remove and get to those white adhesive pull strips. be very careful!!!
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Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, towards the bottom of the iPhone.
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Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at as low an angle as possible, without snagging it on any of the iPhone's other components.
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If the battery adhesive tabs break during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.
This was the most frustrating step of the process. I found that if you pull steadily and slowly while continuing to grip the adhesive as close to the battery as you can there is a much smaller chance of breaking the adhesive strip and losing it under the battery.
I did not have replacement adhesive tabs for my battery so I needed to re-use the old ones. First, I pulled back the black tabs from the top and sides of the battery (Steps 28 and 29). Then I laid the phone on a hot water bottle (Wärmeflasche for our German friends) while I very, very, very slowly prised the battery out of the body using the flat end of a spudger, starting at the corner closest to the volume buttons. The battery did deform somewhat during the process, but it was fully discharged and I had no combustion problems. After a few minutes of gentle pressure on the battery corner, it started to release from the adhesive. Full removal took about 5 minutes and the adhesive tabs were not damaged in any way and happily re-adhered to the new battery.
I did all this after skipping over steps 18 to 27 and put the new battery in place after connecting it first to the circuit board to ensure correct alignment.
All 4 strips tore after just removing a small portion… even though I took great care to pull slowly and at a small angle. Could not imagine how anyone could have managed this with my phone. Had to heat and pry out.
I damaged the graphite film underneath the battery while removing it from stubborn adhesive using a card from the side. Can I buy replacement graphite film? Should I remove it altogether since it's ripped or will that cause problems for heat dissipation? Thank you for any information.
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Repeat the above steps to remove the remaining three adhesive strips.
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If you removed all of the adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.
If you have a thin flexible plastic shim shaped like a letter opener, you can slip it under the battery and take it off the adhesive.
I damaged the graphite film underneath the battery while removing it from stubborn adhesive using a card from the side. Can I buy replacement graphite film? Should I remove it altogether since it's ripped or will that cause problems for heat dissipation? Thank you for any information.
Good luck with the top two…. Virtually impossible to remove. Both of mine broke almost immediately. I tried floss and a strong thread and both broke before they did much good.
so I took a plastic card (an old credit card would work, but you’ll have to cut it thinner or work from the sides. If you got the bottom two out successfully, you should be able to get enough lift to start prying gently with the card.
Good chance you’ll scuff up the super-thin carbon film over the charging coil if you’re too aggressive. And DO NOT use alcohol to soften the glue because it will melt right through that thin carbon layer and make a mess. Best bet is to go gradually…. Put the plastic card under the battery, pull up a bit to add tension, and then stick a pencil or popsicle or something under the card to keep keep the tension and give it 5 minutes or so for the tape to loosen. Then pull up on the card to add new tension, move the stick up, and wait again. It’ll take 20-30 minutes. Repeat until free and don’t rush.
@bigh I’m surprised nobody else mentions this problem! With the piece above the battery still in place, impossible to pull « at the smallest possible angle with horizontal » as for the 2 bands below: I suppose that’s why they make us remove the taptic engine! Why not similarly remove the things above the top of the battery?
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Pull the string from side to side in a sawing motion all along the length of the battery to separate the adhesive. Do not deform or damage the battery.
In my case the floss caught on the sharp edge of the wireless charging coil pulling up the edge of the coil, butane cutting off the floss. I think the coil had been damaged by some previous repair, but be careful. After you pull past the first two adhesive strips, peek under the battery to make sure the floss is sliding over not under the coil. The coil doesn't look like a coil – more like a paper thin pad.
Soaking the floss in rubbing alcohol helped also. It took some doing, but eventually came through without issue.
I ended up heating the back of the phone for 30-60 seconds (don't do anymore than that) and used the opening tool as a fulcrum to lift the battery. As long as you're careful it should work!
I damaged the graphite film underneath the battery while removing it from stubborn adhesive using a card from the side. Can I buy replacement graphite film? Should I remove it altogether since it's ripped or will that cause problems for heat dissipation? Thank you for any information.
All the adhesive strips broke, so I used the long plastic tool for brute force extraction, twisting the old battery in the process. Most of the old strips in the back remained, so reused them for the new battery.
A hairdryer and dental floss dipped in Isopropyl alcohol worked for me. You need to use the blue pick and pointy end of the spudger to get the floss down deep enough into the crevice near the taptic engine. Then I just slowly pulled both ends of the floss down the length of the battery. DO NOT use the blue triangle pick, or similar to try and pry the battery up. The last time I very nearly damaged the charging coil near the center of the battery.
Of course skipping the screen and taptic engine disassembly, all 4 strips broke for me, so I ended up using a thin rubberband in place of the floss, and a flexible plastic card, slim enough to slip under the battery and pry it out. Took more than an hour but it worked out in the end, and I was glad I didn't have to deal with reattaching the screen and everything else to be honest. Be careful to not tear other small components with the edges of the card though, as I tore some unsuspecting black rubbery cover from a metallic case above the battery connector. Used some thin insulating tape to cover the exposed parts, just to be safe.
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Remove the battery from the iPhone.
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Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.
Having received a replacement battery from CE Store, the phone is now OK with top battery performance. The one received earlier was just a scrap, not chargeable. Now, I’m quite satisfied.
I made the mistake of powering the phone on once the new battery was connected to make sure it was working, before I put the screen back on. Now my home button doesn’t work, even after two hard resets. Anyone know how I can get it working again? Note I didn’t disconnect the screen or taptic engine or anything else. I just left the screen hinged 90°, the only connector I touched was the battery connector.
Same issue. Home button is dead. No cables were damaged. Everything else works. Any ideas?
I had the same issue with the Home button, I turned on Virtual Home Button, which makes the phone usable. Shutting the power off off and restarting the phone bring you to the login screen. go to Settings, Accessibility, Touch, Assistive Touch.
I recommend making sure the battery connector is lined up with the socket before setting it down on in the compartment, mine was very close, but a little too high and it made getting it connected a little more difficult than it needed to be.
I agree Benjamin. Eager to ask anyone starting this, since it added 90 minutes onto my project, be careful, though I can testify that the metal flex connector bends. In other words, I bent it about 3 times so the proper alignment could be attained - sort of a zig zag. Amidst that phase I had practically given up, almost started removing the new battery, but alas I got the phone to work again. We'll see if its function can last.
Steph B -
Performing a force restart at this point makes no sense. Shouldn’t it be performed after the display is installed?
Creio que a "reinicialização forçada" deverá ser feita "após a remontagem" do aparelho como está instruído.
He said:
I believe that the "forced restart "should be done "after reassembling" the device as instructed.
After you connect the new battery and before laying it down, make sure the end closest to the Taptic Engine has as much of a gap as possible and don't lay it down until you are absolutely sure that you are happy with the placement of it. This time around that end of the battery wound up being pretty much flush against the Taptic Engine and there really isn't much of a gap compared to the previous battery I put in there. I suspect there may be some inconsistencies with how the metal flex connector is attached to the battery itself from the factory and possibly the connector's length. With the battery connected, laying it down and leaving as much of a gap as possible, will help for the next time you replace it, especially if you choose not to remove the Taptic Engine.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. Don't forget to reapply the display adhesive before reinstalling the display.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our iPhone 8 Answers community for troubleshooting help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. Don't forget to reapply the display adhesive before reinstalling the display.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our iPhone 8 Answers community for troubleshooting help.
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63 Comments
I still did it in 30 minutes….but I am glad I stop repairing phones around the Iphone 6s ! Now it takes serious effors just to replace the battery !
One note on this repair: When reinstalling the standoff that connects to the Taptic Engine, I found that the pointy tip of the spudger fits really well into the little hole at the top of the standoff, and helps with getting it into place and screwing it down if you don’t have a screwdriver bit for the standoff. Hope this is helpful!
Are steps 18 to 27 really required if you’re just replacing the battery?
Hi Daniel!
The pull-stretch adhesive holding the battery has a tendency to tear when they are pulled at a steep angle. When they tear, removing the battery becomes much more difficult. We strongly recommend removing the Taptic Engine in order to give the adhesive the best chance of coming out in one piece.
I tried doing it the ‘easy’ way without those steps. I wound up breaking the top adhesive tabs and it made it a lot harder to remove the battery and took a lot of extra time. If I had to do it again, I would do all the steps. Otherwise, things went very well. Very good instructions.
I have done both the “long way” and the “short way.” If I start with the top tabs and they break, I will skip step 18 - 27 since I will have to use the floss / alcohol / pry method anyway.
Great guide and great quality of all your tools and replacement parts.
The battery replacement took 50 minutes. The taptic engine took a bit more extra 10 minutes time.
Crushing experiment! The phone wakes up, all installed apps appear on the screen, works well, joins to Wi-Fi, but can’t charge the battery. 1% still remains after three hours, connected to its genuine charger. Well, I’m down and very sad.
Did you plug the charging board in wrong or at all? Maybe you should check. If you put a new seal on would be a bummer to have to open it up again.
I bought the kit from ifixit. I’m power electronics technician and fixed 10 to 20 iPhones in my life without problems. But this time I made the same experience as Miklos Barton. Battery only charges 1%. I checked some YouTube videos, and how to fix this Problem, and they showed that in most cases the MOSFET on top of the battery was ripped of. In my case the MOSFET is in place.
The video show battery removal without taking out the taptic engine first. So, what is the recommend method?
Removing the Taptic Engine first allows you to pull the battery adhesive at a shallower angle, which decreases the likelihood of broken strips.
I got one question will it detect the battery last time I did a battery replacement The battery won’t detect the iPhone so I’m kinda skeptic about it
Gut Bezeichnet, Schritt führ Schritt
I just completed the battery replacement. I didn’t remove the Taptic Engine, which worked out fine. I used a sock full of microwaved rice for the iOpener and heat gun replacement.
Total time = around 1 hour.
Mistakes = 2
Mistake 1 = I broke the 2 clips at the top of the iPhone. They are incredibly fragile.
Mistake 2 = I pierced the old battery with the tweezers. It melted one of the tweezer arms a little, while the battery puffed up, sparked, and smoked a bit.
Having same problem as Miklos and Stefan…so is it the battery from iFixIt or is it a mosfet?
Same problem. Anyone from iFixit have a solution?
Mine came down to the battery connection to the logic board wasn't completely seated. The key sign was, low power sign on only when plugged in and no power at all when not plugged in. Took the screen off and the plated that secured the battery connection to the logic board. Took some time trying to gently re-seat the connection, finally got it, plugged it in and it worked. Good luck!
nshourds -
Ich habe die Anleitung 1:1 befolgt und es hat gut funktioniert. Zum erwärmen habe ich eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Umbedingt das Repairkit mit Ersatzdichtung kaufen. Super Service von iFix it: Anleitung, Tools, Ersatzteile. DANKE
Hallo, ich habe den Akku erfolgreich nach Anleitung gewechselt. Ebenfalls habe ich den Akku danach wie beschrieben auf 100% geladen und weitere 2 Stunden am Ladekabel belassen. Das iPhone ist zurückgesetzt und hat keine installierten Apps außer den Stockapps von Apple. Der Akku entlädt sich ohne Aktivitäten über Nacht auf ca. 70%, danach geht es weiter runter ohne das iPhone 8 zu benutzen. Kann es sein das die Kalibrierung aus irgendeinem Grund nicht funktioniert hat? Der Akku hat bei 100% Leistung (Batterie Management in den Einstellung) leider nur die gleiche Wirksamkeit wie der alte Akku. Wo liegt hier der Fehler?
i don’t like to do it anymore..
iphone 6 was easy, but with IPX etc. it’s just not easy anymore.
also, it’s not as good a battery as from apple directly.
I learned the hard way that the iPhone 8 has a wireless charging coil. When the battery adhesive pull strips snapped, I used a plastic card to remove the adhesive and it scraped a big chunk out of the charging coil. You can still get the phone working again by removing the logic board, ripping the coil connector off of the coil, and putting a piece of electrical tape over any exposed copper. Next time I’ll use floss to remove the battery adhesive!
Hi Richard, same thing happened to me. I tried the best I cloud to remove the battery I also used floss, but nope the wireless charging pad was stuck and came glued with the adhesive strips completely. I soften the adhesive with no luck. I think I will put this phone away. I thought the repair process was easier but I made a huge mistake by only watching the iFixit video. :(
Tolle Anleitung!! Vielen Dank für dein Engagement!!
Gute Anleitung, war hilfreich. Das Video ist ebenfalls sehr gut. Es entfällt das Entfernen der Taptic Engine.
Auch die Ersatzbatterie wurde von fixit.de sehr schnell geliefert. Ich bin begeistert.
Despite lots of gentle heat and following the instructions really carefully (I’ve replaced batteries and screens a few times in the past with no issues) I now have a dark blob on the screen where the suction cup was used to remove it, and a tiny bright spot in the bottom right corner. I’m guessing that one or more layers has separated before the adhesive gave way - probably the polarizer as the blob gets brighter when looked at at an angle. It did take me about 15-20 minutes of work to get the screen off as it just didn’t want to separate despite heat and rocking as per the guide - I think it just required too much pull from the suction cup before I could get the slightest gap to get the pick in.
The phone still works fully and the rest of the repair went off without a hitch. The iFixit replacement battery seems fine. I’m going to leave it charging and hope for a miracle to happen overnight.
Sweet jesus. that sucked. just pay the extra $20 to have it done. best 20 bucks you'll ever spend
Took about an hour. Getting the case open was the hardest part, but don't try this repair unless you are comfortable with handling 2mm screws and are patient as !&&*! Fired the repaired iPhone up and it worked perfectly! Whew!
All went well in the end. The worst part was connecting back the taptic engine socket. That was really frustrating, but finally it worked after many attempts. The second worst part was the adhesive - what an incredibly poor design of iPhones to finish with sticky glue! Other than that the process was smooth without issues.
This worked well, everything went smoothly. I would recommend going ahead and removing the display (that part really wasn't bad to do and worth it to get it out of the way). and the haptic engine (you need the space to pull the adhesive strips). I had a couple strips break partway, IPA dripped behind the battery worked really well and this shouldn't damage the electronics, it takes a few minutes to work.
The phone powered up no problem after reassembly. Everything worked except the rear camera and flashlight. I tried several tricks I found online, but the only way to get it back was to do a DFU restore of the phone. So don't panic if your camera is black, it can be a software issue.
Total time for me was 55 minutes but some of that was rewatching the video. Easy to complete and my phone is working like new.
Couple of tips
1 - if you have a small flat refrigerator magnet or magnetic business card, lay it on your work surface, magnet side up, to hold all your tiny fasteners.
2 - no iOpener or heat gun, I used my heating pad it worked perfectly and no worries about getting your device too hot.
Thanks iFixit, definitely as easy as advertised and I couldn’t be happier with the outcome.
There is no discussion of replacing the waterproof seal and how that may work without separating the display. How can the seal be placed on the proper surface all around whilst the display is still connected?
Yishai, you place the seal in place before you reconnect the screen. This was not documented well in the tutorial. The seal replacement kit actually has three layers of plastic protective material: after thoroughly cleaning the old goo from both the phone base and the screen (which took me an hour just for that), you peel off the back plastic and align it on the phone body… I actually think it’s best to align it from the left side instead of the bottom… less chance for alignment errors that way. Then you can pull the small plastic tab to remove the front plastic… a thin 3rd piece of plastic (actually two pieces) remain and cover the goo while you attach the screen. When everything is attached, I placed a plastic card (a credit card would work) over the base while I lowered the screen and engaged the top two pins. Once those are engaged you can pull out the card and snap the rest of the screen in place. Then attach the final two bottom screws.
Gotta agree with others… it’s just not worth it any more to do this yourself. It took me three hours (one hour just to clean the old screen sealant off… anyone who says they did the repair in 30 minutes didn’t clean and replace this seal properly, which sacrifices the water resistance). The screws just keep getting tinier and crazier and you have to use magnifying lenses and strong light just to see them.
too many ways this can all go wrong now. I saved maybe $35 by doing it myself rather than having Apple do it. Not even close to being worth the headache and the risk of breaking something. This is the the last phone battery I’ll ever replace, and I’ve been replacing them since the original iPhone… for myself, my family and my friends. Time to hang up the ol’ spudge tool.
Holy Smokes, that sucked!! Instructions were fine. 1.3mm screws were impossible to get in! All tape broke but the dental floss and isopropyl did the trick. Screwed up taking the Taptic flex cable off, then tore it so no haptic now. Not doing that again!
Did I say that sucked?
Thanks for all the hard work and great comments. After reading all this I am not going to do this myself. I also changed my older phones batteries with out a problem, But this cell phone "operation" looks like an invitation to a possible frustrated conundrum or a semi-successful job.
Braced myself for a long operation and, yep, so it was. The kit is excellent although I'm torn between getting an isclack screen prying tool and never ever trying a job like this again. TL;DR: all went well, the screws are tiny and you need to make sure you have somewhere to store them where, and I cannot stress this enough, you're not going to accidentally nudge and randomly rearrange them. This was the most mindful bit of repair I've ever done, with careful, half-speed movements, and absolutely no swearing during the reassembly of the Taptic Engine and ancillary cabling. Using the kit tweezers to remove the adhesive from both halves of the phone was time-consuming, necessary and actually quite satisfying. Definitely needed bright light and calming music, however. Also, wish I'd read the comment about using the spudger tip for the Taptic Engine standoff. That was a bit fighty. Finally, used Payette Forward's info on DFU reset - so far, so good. Great guide, thanks.
I don't think this should be medium difficulty level. Changing the battery of my Air it was also medium and rather easy. I ended up bringing my phone to a repair shop to finish up.
For parts, I use an egg carton and place all screws and parts for each step into one of the egg holders, moving clockwise as I go.
Worked great for me. Only downside is I feel stuck with a perfectly functioning iPhone 8 for another couple years. lol. Thank you iFixit for the vids and my fellow community members for the useful comments.
I am one of the least tech-related guy on the planet. I also am very bad at making stuff I bought from ikea.
But I bought the kit to try fixing, because the benefit outweighed the risk, that is breaking my old iphone8 (I would be sad but it wouldn't affect me too much).
Turns out, I finished the repair in 80 minutes. (Big portion of that time heating up the battery glue)
And. to me, this is f ing unbelievable
the THING WORKS.
HOW!
I have been and still am just
BEAMING-
never been this happy over the whole covid years.
my dumb hands successfully repaired something.
that feels nice. and its also nice to have a working spare phone.
Grats to everyone who made it. The guide is exceptionally good and I disassembled everything without breaking a single part.
But... I did some repairs on my older Macbooks (2010-2015) and my iPhone 8 started to have around 30minute battery time so I decided to try to replace the battery using an ifixit kit. Unfortunately, when reassembling I couldn't put the antennae cable socket back in and broke it. I kind of think it's my eyes (definitely very poor since when I was younger) but I can't seem to plug in the small cables back into their sockets.
Definitely much harder than I thought and I think I'll give up here :(
I had Apple (Genius Bar) themselves do it, charging me USD 57. They also asked me to upgrade to latest iOS before they do the replacement. From what I have read here, I would certainly be unsuccessful in doing it myself. I consider the cost, well spent to avoid stress and headache. The iPhone 8 has also served for 5+ years so I feel getting it done by Apple themselves will definitely extend its usable life abit more. And could also still be good to pass it over when I finally justify an upgrade.
I suggest adding the steps to replace the Taptic engine and Wi-Fi diversity antenna prior to adhering the battery to help ensure proper placement. The instructions for other iPhone battery replacement includes this. I find that it really does help position the battery.
Clean Contacts
If you get the error message, no battery percentage, no charging issue after installing a new battery try this:
go back to the battery connector, with 99.9% isopropyl alcohol clean both the battery connector and the iPhone battery terminal connector.
If you did not use latex gloves (you should), then it's possible oil/grease or dust from your fingers have dirtied the connectors. Clean them with the alcohol and see if that solves your problem.
This was my 2nd iPhone 8 battery replacement from iFixit. The first one only lasted a few months at peak performance capability and then dropped significantly. Hoping it was just a bad battery and that this one will last longer. This time around I took the easier route, though it's still not easy. I chose not to remove the display completely, nor the Taptic Engine and I didn't apply a new adhesive for the display. It seems to be working and charging now. I'll report back in a few months time about how the capacity is holding up.
This "how-to" is well written and concise for the experienced ifixit-er. Step 28 is the trickiest step because it is difficult to understand what is part of the top plug and the bottom socket. The picture sequence is great if you follow it exactly. On the reassembly of the taptic engine, I spent over an hour trying to connect the taptic plug to the diversity antenna socket (#doh). The taptic engine socket is the one underneath, dummy. Go slow, be careful and don't drop the screws. lol
Just completed the battery replacement on my iPhone 8.
Went very well.... except for the following slow downs.
1. I used the single suction cup device.... but worked well
2. At first, I couldn't get the screen and backing to separate to get the pick under the screen, so I reheated the iOpener and left it laying on the phone for a whole 2 minutes. It finally opened enough to get the pick in.
3. I didn't have a Y000 bit to get the screws out of the Taptic pad.... so I just left all that in there.
4. All four adhesive strips broke at the black tabs on the battery removal... so I was unable to pull the adhesive out. So I heated the iOpener again and left it laying on the battery for another whole 2 minutes. Then I used the credit card style chip tools.... and slowly and gently pried the old battery out.
5. The hardest part.... was replacing those itty bitty screws!!!!!!! The magnetism on the screwdriver.... made it hard to attach the end of the screw onto the screwdriver..... like it should be done.
Super Anleitung. Ich habe zum Akkutausch ca. 2 Stunden gebraucht, da es zum Teil sehr fummelig war. Zum Öffnen habe ich einen Fön benutzt und da mir ein Klebestreifen gerissen ist, kam auch Zahnseide zum Einsatz. Da ich mir nicht sicher war, ob es funktioniert habe ich das Display erstmal nicht verklebt. Aber alles hat super geklappt und ich habe nochmal das Display entfernt und eingeklebt, das ging schon wesentlich schneller. Der neue Akku hat nun wieder 100% Kapazität und hält deutlich länger. Danke!
Messed up the adhesive so will redo with the liquid adhesive later. For the first attempt it's all ok, but would be awesome if the guide would go on with reassembly steps instead of requiring us to figure how to do the process backwards.
Vermiş olduğunuz bilgiler için teşekkür ederim, artık kendi telefonumun pilini kendim değiştiriyorum.
Bilgilendirme için çok ama çok teşekkür ederim, sayenizde kendi telefonumun bataryasını değiştirdim.
Thank you very, very much for the information, thanks to you, I changed the battery of my own phone.
I'm just reporting back. I mentioned previously that I had purchased two iPhone 8 replacement batteries from iFixit' store and I didn't have great results with the lifespan. However, for my third time around, I have made a conscious effort to stick to the 80/20 rule. It's been 7 months since I put in the battery and I'm still at 100% capacity. I've definitely charged over 80% more than a few times and dropped below 20%, but I've been very good at not letting the battery hit extreme wear as far as charging is concerned.
The downside is that I charge more frequently than I used to, but overall my experience with this phone and the latest iOS has been fine for me. I set charging reminder shortcuts in IOS, for when my battery level reaches 80%, or drops below 25%. That has really helped me stick to this charging routine.
Is the heat gun sold by ifixit appropriate? My whole family has iPhones but they're all different models so I want to know if the heat gun being sold by ifixit is "too much" in terms of heat output.
I don't want to turn a simple repair job into a $100+ repair deal.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
just how long are those screws- i turn and turn and turn and the lift off is soooo slight, seemingly insignificant…
An. Jahnke - Reply
I would recommend, from the very beginning, dumping all tools out of the kit (if you got it) and using that white paper tool box as a tray to organize the screws and braces in. It’s nice to work over because it catches screws well and makes it easy to see them if you drop any.
Johnny Emrica - Reply
That’s a great idea thank you
Mohamed Dekkiche -
Screw to the left of the charging port will not come out. Screw on the right came out no problem. Any ideas?
Bill Maher - Reply
I already replaced my iPhone 8 battery with one from iFixit and honestly I wasn't impressed. It worked well for a few months, but then I started noticing the peak performance capability dropping significantly thereafter. I followed the initial charging instructions to a tee and only let it drop below 20% once a month. Normal everyday use for me... no intense apps like games, etc. I considered having Apple do it this time around, but for these older models they don't keep the batteries in-stock and you have to give them your phone for up to a week. So in the end, I opted to try another battery from iFixit instead. Hopefully this one will last longer.
tripmusic - Reply
How with the gigantic kit do I not have a 3 1/2 pentalobe driver the very first screwdriver I reach for and that I need is not in any of these kits. What’s up with that?
Michael Stephens - Reply