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iPhone XR Battery Replacement

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Written By: Adam O'Camb (and 6 other contributors)
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Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

38

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

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6

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Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Introduction

iPhone batteries degrade with use—over time, they lose their ability to hold a full charge. Apple's batteries are rated to hold 80% of their capacity for up to 500 charge cycles, which lasts roughly 18-24 months for most users. When your battery's chemistry is degraded, it may also cause your iPhone to run more slowly. Use this guide to replace your battery and restore your iPhone to full performance.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Note: After the repair, your iPhone may display a warning about the “genuineness” of the battery, even when using original Apple parts. If your iPhone functions normally, you can safely ignore the warning.

For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least two more hours. Then use your iPhone until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured. Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    • There's a black rubber gasket just beneath the head on each pentalobe screw. For maximum protection against dust and liquid, check the condition of the gaskets or replace the screws during reassembly.

    Edit

  2. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or heat gun, or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    Edit

  3. The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method. If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone XR.

    • The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method.

    • If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone XR.

    • Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.

    • Press both suction cups firmly into place.

    • If your display or back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may help the suction cups adhere. The iSclack also includes two pieces of tape for this purpose.

    Edit

  4. Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone. Don't try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need. Insert an opening pick into the gap under the display on the lower edge of the iPhone.

    • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone.

    • Don't try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap under the display on the lower edge of the iPhone.

    • Skip the next two steps and continue to step 8.

    Edit

  5. If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass. If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    • If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    Edit

  6. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Insert an opening pick into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    Edit

  7. Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place. Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components. Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

    • Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

    Edit

  8. Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

    • Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.

    • Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

    Edit

  9. The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips. Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port. The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.

    • The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.

    • Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.

    • The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.

    • Again, don't insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.

    • Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

    Edit

  10. Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

    • If you used an iSclack and it's still affixed to the iPhone, remove it now.

    Edit

  11. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board. Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

    Edit

  12. Remove three 1.2 mm Y000 screws securing the battery connector cover bracket. Remove the bracket.
    Tool used on this step:
    Magnetic Project Mat
    $19.99

    • Remove three 1.2 mm Y000 screws securing the battery connector cover bracket.

    • Remove the bracket.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

    • During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

    Edit

  13. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket. Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket.

    • Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

    • Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

    Edit

  15. Remove the two 1.2 mm Y000 screws securing the display connector bracket. Remove the bracket.

    • Remove the two 1.2 mm Y000 screws securing the display connector bracket.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Edit

  16. Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the digitizer cable. To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the digitizer cable.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

    Edit

  17. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the display cable connector. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the display cable connector.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the display cable connector.

    Edit

  18. Remove the five screws securing the logic board connector bracket to the rear case: One 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • Remove the five screws securing the logic board connector bracket to the rear case:

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • Three 1.2 mm Y000 screws

    • Remove the bracket.

    • Be careful not to lose the smaller bracket clipped onto the edge. It's secured with a small clip and is easy to accidentally knock off of the larger bracket.

    Edit

  19. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the front sensor assembly connector up from its socket. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the front sensor assembly connector up from its socket.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the front sensor assembly connector up from its socket.

    Edit

  20. Remove the display assembly.
    Edit

  21. Remove the seven screws securing the bracket below the Taptic engine and speaker:

    • Remove the seven screws securing the bracket below the Taptic engine and speaker:

    • Three Phillips 1.4 mm screws

    • Two Phillips 1.7 mm screws

    • One Phillips 1.9 mm screw

    • One Phillips 1.6 mm screw

    Edit

  22. Lift the bracket from the edge nearest the battery. Don't try to fully remove it, as it's still connected via a small flex cable. Lift the bracket from the edge nearest the battery. Don't try to fully remove it, as it's still connected via a small flex cable.

    • Lift the bracket from the edge nearest the battery. Don't try to fully remove it, as it's still connected via a small flex cable.

    Edit

  23. While holding the bracket out of the way, use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the flex cable underneath. While holding the bracket out of the way, use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the flex cable underneath.

    • While holding the bracket out of the way, use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the flex cable underneath.

    Edit

  24. Remove the bracket.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Edit

  25. Remove the piece of black tape and the small rubber rectangle covering the Taptic Engine connector cover. Remove the piece of black tape and the small rubber rectangle covering the Taptic Engine connector cover.

    • Remove the piece of black tape and the small rubber rectangle covering the Taptic Engine connector cover.

    Edit

  26. Remove the five screws securing the lower speaker:
    Tool used on this step:
    Standoff Screwdriver for iPhones
    $8.99

    • Remove the five screws securing the lower speaker:

    • One 2.8 mm standoff screw

    • Standoff screws are best removed using a dedicated standoff driver or driver bit.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    • One 2.3 mm standoff screw

    • One 2.3 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips screw

    Edit

  27. Remove the small bracket on the top right corner of the speaker. Remove the Taptic Engine connector cover.

    • Remove the small bracket on the top right corner of the speaker.

    • Remove the Taptic Engine connector cover.

    Edit

  28. Insert a spudger under the top edge of the speaker near the edge of the iPhone's case. Gently pry up and lift the top edge of the speaker.

    • Insert a spudger under the top edge of the speaker near the edge of the iPhone's case.

    • Gently pry up and lift the top edge of the speaker.

    Edit

  29. Hold the speaker by its side edges and rock it side-to-side, separating the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone. Pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket separates. Pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket separates.

    • Hold the speaker by its side edges and rock it side-to-side, separating the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket separates.

    Edit

  30. Remove the speaker. The speaker's adhesive gasket is not reusable. Peel away any remaining adhesive residue with tweezers.

    • Remove the speaker.

    • The speaker's adhesive gasket is not reusable. Peel away any remaining adhesive residue with tweezers.

    • To help protect against water and dust intrusion, replace the adhesive gasket during reassembly. Prep the area by cleaning it with a bit of isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth or coffee filter so that the gasket adheres properly. Install a new gasket onto the speaker, and then install the speaker.

    Edit

  31. Remove the two 1.8 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine.

    • Remove the two 1.8 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine.

    Edit

  32. Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket. Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.

    • Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.

    Edit

  33. Remove the Taptic Engine.

    • Remove the Taptic Engine.

    Edit

  34. The iPhone XR's battery is secured to the rear case by four pieces of stretch-release adhesive—two on either end of the battery.

    • The iPhone XR's battery is secured to the rear case by four pieces of stretch-release adhesive—two on either end of the battery.

    • Each piece of adhesive has a black pull-tab at the end, which is lightly adhered to the side edge of the battery.

    Edit

  35. Peel back the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom right edge of the battery. Be careful not to jab the battery with any sharp tools. A punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire. Be careful not to jab the battery with any sharp tools. A punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire.

    • Peel back the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom right edge of the battery.

    • Be careful not to jab the battery with any sharp tools. A punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire.

    Edit

  36. Try to keep the adhesive strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; twisted or wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly. Additionally, do not press down on the battery as you pull the strips. Pressing on the battery creates pressure points that can snag and break the adhesive. Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, towards the bottom of the iPhone.

    • Try to keep the adhesive strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; twisted or wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

    • Additionally, do not press down on the battery as you pull the strips. Pressing on the battery creates pressure points that can snag and break the adhesive.

    • Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, towards the bottom of the iPhone.

    • Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at as low an angle as possible, without snagging it on any of the iPhone's other components.

    • The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.

    • If the battery adhesive tabs break during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.

    • If any of the adhesive strips break underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove the remaining strips, and then proceed as instructed below.

    Edit

  37. Repeat the above steps to remove the remaining three adhesive strips. Be sure to hold onto the battery as you remove the final strip, or it may fling out of the iPhone unexpectedly.

    • Repeat the above steps to remove the remaining three adhesive strips.

    • Be sure to hold onto the battery as you remove the final strip, or it may fling out of the iPhone unexpectedly.

    • If you removed all of the adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.

    • If the adhesive breaks off underneath the battery and can't be retrieved, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery in the area of the broken adhesive strip(s).

    • Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery.

    • Don't try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.

    • Be careful not to damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath the battery.

    • For an alternative method to unstick the battery, continue with the next step below.

    Edit

  38. If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery. This will help soften the adhesive. Heat the iPhone until the rear case is slightly too hot to comfortably touch. Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.

    • If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery. This will help soften the adhesive.

    • Heat the iPhone until the rear case is slightly too hot to comfortably touch. Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.

    • Flip the iPhone back over and thread a strong piece of string (such as dental floss or a length of thin guitar string) underneath the battery.

    • Wrap the ends of the string around a cloth (or wear gloves) to protect your fingers.

    • Pull the string from side to side in a sawing motion all along the length of the battery to separate the adhesive. This can take some time since the adhesive is slow to deform, but with patience it will come free. Do not deform or damage the battery.

    • If you choose to use pry tools to lift the battery out of the iPhone, use extreme caution or you may damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath the battery.

    Edit

  39. Remove the battery from the iPhone.

    • Remove the battery from the iPhone.

    • If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.

    • Reinstall the Taptic Engine and speaker before installing a new battery. This helps keep the battery aligned correctly during installation.

    • Before you adhere the replacement battery, temporarily reconnect the battery connector to the motherboard socket. This ensures that the battery is properly aligned in its recess.

    • Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.

    • If your new battery doesn’t have adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide to replace the adhesive strips.

    • Perform a force restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

    Edit
Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

38 other people completed this guide.

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Adam O'Camb

Member since: 04/11/2015

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One Comment

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Hello and Good morning please I wanted to know if iPhone 8 battery can be fixed in iPhone XR?

Lord Osei Boateng Junior - Reply

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