Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

  • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.

pargoff - Reply

The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.

Jeff Suovanen -

@jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.

Ben Meinhart - Reply

Hang on a second here, doesn’t the Ifixit part I ordered come with the seals? The display assembly? It doesn’t. Now I have to wait another week?!

Vanessa Pinter - Reply

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
  • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

  • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

How long should I use a hairdryer for?

Warren Binder - Reply

I used it until it was hot to the touch but not too hot where you burn yourself.

gczarny -

  • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

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  • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

  • While pulling up on the suction cup, twist the spudger to widen the opening between the screen and rear case.

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  • Insert the flat end of the spudger between the front panel and the rear case at the lower left edge of the iPhone.

  • Slide the spudger up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

  • Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

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  • Remove the spudger from the left side of the phone and insert the flat end into the bottom right corner.

  • Slide the spudger up the right edge of the phone to the top corner, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

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  • Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

    • Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are delicate ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

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  • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

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  • Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

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  • Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

  • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

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  • Remove the following four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.6 mm screw

Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.

u204863 - Reply

Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.

Jeff Suovanen -

The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?

shannon caldwell - Reply

At first I think I was being too careful and was getting no where. I got better results by pressing down on the screwdriver with more pressure while turning and those little screws came right out.

LadyTech - Reply

I cannot remove one of the corner screws in this step and i have used the tweezers and the y000 tri tip and i am afraid that it is stripping it. is there a work around for this step?

Katherine Monday - Reply

@katmonday1 No workaround unfortunately. Make sure the driver tip is in good condition and fits the screw correctly. Seat it in the screw, hold the driver perfectly vertical, press down hard (and maintain it), and turn. It’ll come out. If it’s really stripped you’ll have to get more aggressive—try one or more of the techniques in this guide or get some help. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

  • Remove the lower display cable bracket.

I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

chris west - Reply

If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.

Scott Havard - Reply

  • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

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  • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

  • To re-attach press connectors, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

  • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

The note about the danger of pressing on the connector incorrectly is very legitimate. Though I find it more practical to use a wide (1.5 cm) case opener tool to press it down all at once. Minimizes risk of bending the connector.

Talon - Reply

  • Remove the three tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • Two 1.0 mm screws

  • Remove the bracket.

Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.

chris west - Reply

I know your comment was posted a long time ago but just in case someone else has the same problem, the only difference in the screws are the lengths. The ends are the same.

mcr4u2 - Reply

  • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

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  • Remove three Phillips screws securing the antenna component:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • One 1.2 mm screw

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  • Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna component to the top edge of the rear case.

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  • The screw boss at the top of the antenna component is tucked into a small recess in the top edge of the iPhone.

  • Tilt the antenna component up towards the top of the phone.

  • Slide the screw boss down and out of its recess.

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  • Remove the top left antenna component.

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  • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

  • Press firmly to eject the tray.

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  • Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone.

    • The SIM card will fall out of the tray easily.

  • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

  • A thin rubber gasket around the SIM tray provides water and dust protection. If this gasket is damaged or missing, replace the gasket to protect your iPhone's internal components.

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  • Use an iFixit opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the dual camera cable connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets.

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  • Remove the two screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket:

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.2 mm standoff screw

      • Standoff screws are best removed using an iPhone Standoff Screwdriver Bit and driver handle.

      • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

Why is there a standoff screw here? No other screw goes into it so why not have a Phillips?

Trevor Smith - Reply

  • Remove the bracket covering the rear-facing camera.

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  • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the upper cable bracket.

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  • Remove the upper cable bracket.

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  • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the grounding clip at the top left edge of the logic board.

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  • Remove the grounding clip.

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  • Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna flex cable to the top edge of the iPhone's rear case.

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  • Use a fingernail or the sharp end of an iFixit opening tool to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable connector from the logic board.

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  • Slide the flat edge of a spudger underneath the antenna flex cable to separate the adhesive holding it in place.

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  • The screw boss at the top of the antenna flex cable is tucked into a small recess in the top edge of the iPhone.

  • Tilt the antenna flex cable up toward the top of the iPhone.

  • Slide the screw boss down and out of its recess.

  • Remove the antenna flex cable.

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  • Use a thin pry tool or tweezers to carefully pry up and disconnect the two coaxial cable connectors from the logic board.

    • During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. One at a time, hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat of your spudger. The connector should snap into place.

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  • Disconnect the two remaining ribbon cables from the logic board:

    • Disconnect the upper cable connector by prying from the top

    • Disconnect the Lightning port connector by prying along the outer edge

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  • Remove the seven screws securing the logic board:

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips screw

    • Two 2.1 mm standoff screws

    • Two 2.0 mm standoff screws

    • Two 2.2 mm standoff screws

  • Standoff screws are best removed using an iPhone Standoff Screwdriver Bit and driver handle.

  • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

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  • Use the point of a spudger to push the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.

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  • Use the point of a spudger to carefully de-route the two coaxial cables from the small metal clip holding them to the logic board.

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  • Lift the logic board from the bottom edges and slide it toward the bottom of the iPhone to remove it.

    • Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.

  • During reassembly, note the position of the black grounding clip at the top right edge of the logic board, near the rear cameras. The logic board should slide underneath the clip.

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  • Remove the following two Phillips screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case:

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 2.1 mm screw

I skipped this step and go straight to step 25. I skipped it because I couldn’t get the screws to come off. But skipping those step did not prevent me or has any detrimental effects on performing step 25.

Jamie Liao - Reply

  • Gently push the barometric vent in the direction of the Taptic Engine to separate the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.

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  • Remove the vent.

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  • Pry up the Taptic Engine's ribbon cable connector to disconnect it.

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  • Remove the three 1.5 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine to the rear case.

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  • Remove the Taptic Engine.

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  • Carefully de-route the two coaxial cables from the metal bracket holding them to the side of the speaker.

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  • Remove the five Phillips screws securing the speaker:

    • Three 1.3 mm screws

    • One 2.3 mm screw

    • One 3.3 mm screw

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  • Remove the speaker.

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  • Remove the 2.9 mm Phillips screw at the top left of the Lightning port.

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  • Remove the spring contact underneath the screw you just removed.

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  • Remove the following three Phillips screws securing the Lightning connector:

    • Two 1.7 mm screws

    • One 2.8 mm screw

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  • Remove the two 1.2 mm Phillips screws securing the Lightning port to the bottom edge of the iPhone.

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  • Use the sharp edge of an iFixit Opening Tool to pry the two microphones free from the adhesive securing them in place.

  • Don't try to completely remove the microphones; just separate the adhesive as shown.

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  • Slide an opening pick or thin pry tool underneath the top portion of the Lightning connector assembly flex cable, and begin separating it from the rear case.

  • If necessary, use a hair dryer or apply an iOpener to heat the rear case and soften the adhesive, in order to make it easier to separate.

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  • Continue separating the upper portion of the flex cable, being careful not to damage any other components along the way.

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  • Carefully slide your pick from the corner of the battery to the corner of the iPhone to separate the portion of the flex cable adhered to the outer frame.

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  • Slide your pick across the width of the iPhone to separate all the remaining strands of the flex cable from the rear case.

    • Be very careful not to damage the battery in the process. A punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.

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  • Remove the Lightning connector assembly.

  • Before installing or replacing the Lightning connector assembly:

    • Use a plastic tool to scour any bits of adhesive residue from the rear case.

    • You can clean any remaining residue from the surface with isopropyl alcohol (90% concentration or greater) and a lint-free cloth. Wipe in one direction only, not back and forth.

    • Make sure the Lightning connector assembly is correctly positioned so that the two white dots on the iPhone's rear case show through the two circular cutouts in the Lightning flex cable. If they don't, the flex cable will remain misaligned and you won't be able to reconnect it to its socket on the logic board.

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  • A rubber gasket on the bottom of the Lightning connector protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. If you are installing a new Lightning connector assembly, you may need to carefully remove and transfer the gasket to the new part.

  • The small adhesive patch on the bottom of each microphone also protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. For best results, replace the two adhesive patches before installing your Lightning connector assembly.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Jeff Suovanen

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NOTE TO ALL: When you put the port back in, LINE UP THE HOLES ON THE FRAME. If you don’t line up the holes perfectly on the cable (even if it’s off by a millimeter), the cable will NOT extend and plug into the logic board. It has to be perfect. You’re welcome :)

Brady8812 - Reply

So i did this and now my home button does not work. Any suggestions?

Brandon Rasco - Reply

So far as I can tell, the only part of this procedure that affects the home button is when it’s disconnected from the board in step 14. I’d probably double-check those connectors to make sure they’re seated properly for a start. Check the sockets for dust/debris or pin damage. Inspect the cables for damage. While you’re troubleshooting, remember to always disconnect the battery first and reconnect it last. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi there, I did the whole process successfully, phone starts up again but I charging does not work?? Tried different cables - didn’t work! Any suggestions? Thanks Thomas

Thomas Senn - Reply

Either you haven’t connected it back up properly, you may have bent pins or debris on the connections or you have a faulty charging flex cable.

Clems -

One of the parts isn’t genuine. Either your actual charging port or the cable you’re using.

Clems -

So I did this and now it shows ”this accessory may not be supported,” any suggestions?

Slavic Nikitenko - Reply

I replaced my charging port and now the service is not coming to my phone. Does anyone know which antennae or cable I messed up when replacing it? Wifi works but not data.

Knox Watson - Reply

I took it slowly and was extra careful. everything worked out perfectly, except putting the adhesive back on, good thing I was also changing the battery so I had two. One thing you should note is which coaxial cables go where before you disconnect them. I was lucky that one was longer than the other and thats how I figured it out.

Pedro De Anda Jr - Reply

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