For an easier repair, use our fix kit and follow this shorter guide to replace your iPhone’s entire display assembly.

For more advanced fixers, this guide will help you replace only the iPhone 7 Plus LCD screen + digitizer assembly (a.k.a. the bare “front panel”). This requires you to transfer several components from your original screen to the new one before installing it—including the front-facing camera, earpiece speaker, LCD shield plate, and home/Touch ID sensor assembly.

For all screen/display repairs, it's important to carefully transfer the original home/Touch ID sensor onto the new display in order for it to function. The solid state home button is paired to its original logic board by Apple, so replacing it will render it unusable.

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.

    pargoff - Reply

    The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    @jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.

    Ben Meinhart - Reply

    Hang on a second here, doesn’t the Ifixit part I ordered come with the seals? The display assembly? It doesn’t. Now I have to wait another week?!

    Vanessa Pinter - Reply

    How do you turn off if the screen isn’t responding to touch?

    adam - Reply

  2. If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

      • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

    • If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.

    Tape doesn’t hold. suction cup doesn’t work. Tape folded over doesn’t work as a handle. I’ve used 3m’ s Gorilla duct tape. The glass is so shattered I cant get a point started to remove the glass. Phone has been in an otter box for years. dropped it and shattered glass while replacing case. Now what?

    Martin Speedy - Reply

    When all else fails, you can superglue your suction cup (or tape) to the display, wait for it to cure, and pull.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I had issues getting the suction cup to stick on my cracked screen, so I tried using scotch tape (only tape I had around), but it didn’t work. This best thing I did was to forcefully pry the screen off (I wasn’t worried about damages because it’s already cracked) with the spudger. I think its best to find something stickier (like Duct Tape) and used that to lift up the screen.

    Definitely surprised how sticky the adhesive was.

    Jeffrey Robinos - Reply

    When using packing tape: the suction won’t hold well with the overlapping pieces, so add a square of tape where you want to put the suction cup, so it will provide an unbroken surface for the seal.

    Christa - Reply

    It’s amazing how a heat gun or hair dryer makes life easier to soften up the adhesive. Then use a thin iSesame opening tool to get in under the screen (start @ 90 degrees/vertical either side of the home button & slowly go horizontal) the need to use suction cups. Run the opening tool along the front and down both sides to cut the adhesive before trying to lift the screen.

    Cheers Wayne

    Wayne Lyell - Reply

    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    How long should I use a hairdryer for?

    Warren Binder - Reply

    I used it until it was hot to the touch but not too hot where you burn yourself.

    gczarny -

    • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

      • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    Add Comment

    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

      • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

    • While pulling up on the suction cup, twist the spudger to widen the opening between the screen and rear case.

    Add Comment

    • Insert the flat end of the spudger between the front panel and the rear case at the lower left edge of the iPhone.

    • Slide the spudger up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the spudger from the left side of the phone and insert the flat end into the bottom right corner.

    • Slide the spudger up the right edge of the phone to the top corner, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    Add Comment

    • Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

      • Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are delicate ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

    Add Comment

    • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

    Add Comment

    • Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

    Add Comment

    • Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

      • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the following four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board:

      • Three 1.2 mm screws

      • One 2.6 mm screw

    Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.

    u204863 - Reply

    Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?

    shannon caldwell - Reply

    At first I think I was being too careful and was getting no where. I got better results by pressing down on the screwdriver with more pressure while turning and those little screws came right out.

    LadyTech - Reply

    I cannot remove one of the corner screws in this step and i have used the tweezers and the y000 tri tip and i am afraid that it is stripping it. is there a work around for this step?

    Katherine Monday - Reply

    @katmonday1 No workaround unfortunately. Make sure the driver tip is in good condition and fits the screw correctly. Seat it in the screw, hold the driver perfectly vertical, press down hard (and maintain it), and turn. It’ll come out. If it’s really stripped you’ll have to get more aggressive—try one or more of the techniques in this guide or get some help. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • Remove the lower display cable bracket.

    I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    chris west - Reply

    If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.

    Scott Havard - Reply

    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

    Add Comment

    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

    • To re-attach press connectors, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

    The note about the danger of pressing on the connector incorrectly is very legitimate. Though I find it more practical to use a wide (1.5 cm) case opener tool to press it down all at once. Minimizes risk of bending the connector.

    Talon - Reply

    What can happen if the battery is not disconnected before the two lower display connectors?

    Alextay - Reply

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    • Remove the three tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector:

      • One 1.3 mm screw

      • Two 1.0 mm screws

    • Remove the bracket.

    Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.

    chris west - Reply

    I know your comment was posted a long time ago but just in case someone else has the same problem, the only difference in the screws are the lengths. The ends are the same.

    mcr4u2 - Reply

    • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

    Add Comment

  4. Add Comment

    • Remove the five Phillips screws securing the earpiece speaker bracket:

      • Two 1.8 mm screws

      • One 2.3 mm screw

      • One 2.4 mm screw

      • One 2.8 mm screw

    Add Comment

    • Remove the earpiece speaker bracket.

    Add Comment

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the front-facing camera from its housing.

    • Gently bend the camera ribbon cable to the side to clear the way to the earpiece speaker underneath.

    How is this bit waterproofed on re-assembly?

    Cool_Breeze - Reply

    • Remove the earpiece speaker.

    Add Comment

    • Gently fold the camera and attached ribbon cable toward the bottom of the iPhone to allow access to the components underneath.

    Add Comment

    • The sensors on this step are fragile. To increase your chances of removing them without damage, use your iOpener or hair dryer to apply heat to the upper portion of the display before you proceed. Alternatively, add a drop or two of isopropyl alcohol and let it penetrate under the sensors before you pry them up.

    • Slide a spudger under the ambient light sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing.

    Add Comment

    • Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the proximity sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing.

    Add Comment

    • Insert the sharp edge of an iFixit opening tool underneath the camera assembly's flex cable, on the opposite side from the front-facing camera.

      • If necessary, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the top portion of the display and soften the adhesive securing the flex cable.

    • Pry up to separate the edge of the flex cable from the back of the display.

    prying this up is sometimes difficult. I always keep a new one on hand incase. they are not expensive. if you separate the black strip, prox sensor will not work.

    Lee Attaway - Reply

    what if the black tape and the flex got seperated, is there a solution to get the earspeaker work gain? coz i tried putting the adhesive tape again behind the flex but still no luck.. what can i do?

    Mac -

    i think this just happened to me…

    william seiji marini - Reply

    • Insert the point of a spudger underneath the same portion of the flex cable that you separated in the previous step.

    • Continue separating the remainder of the flex cable, pushing the spudger toward the row of circular gold earpiece speaker contacts.

    Add Comment

    • Continue using your spudger to carefully separate the last of the flex cable from the back of the display.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the front camera and sensor cable assembly.

    • A piece of black double-sided insulating tape lies between the display and three rows of copper contacts on the back of the camera/sensor cable. It may remain stuck to the display, or it may come off with the cable.

      • When reassembling, verify the tape is in place, or else cover the contacts on the back of the cable with an appropriate tape, such as Kapton tape.

    Is there instruction on how to bend the cable?

    Steven Martinez - Reply

    You really need that tape, If still no sound after placing the tape in place, then you might have damaged the flex cable. Worthy to mention, that some replacement screens come without the ambient light filter (white film seem on the screen) and without the plastic brackets for the camera and proximity sensor, which in those cases, you would have to transfer those parts to the new screen. Also in some screens, the holes for the proximity sensor are not properly done and you might end up with a non-working proximity sensor. In those cases, just remove the pain with the spugger where the proximity sensor locates (removes the black paint) and then add some black permanent marker over it to make it black. That way, it will look pristine form the outside but just thin enough for the proximity sensor to work.

    H. Alves - Reply

    I had issues regarding sound after reassembling the iPhone. I initially used kapton tape. I could hear the caller but they could hear me. I checked every avenue I thought of, I recorded myself speaking which was fine so there was nothing wrong with the mic. I ended up heating the black insulator and transferring it and reseating the earpiece and flex assembly. After a couple attempts the mic was restored to normal operation.

    Paul Wilson - Reply

    yeah the mic and the earpiece not working , what is the solution for this problem ?

    يوسف الريمي - Reply

    Do not pull on the cable an be gentle with the heat. There is a potential that the cable, which is soldered together on this part.

    I had an issue with a costumers flex cable an the ear speaker stopped working bit the cable looked okay and I did not pull on it. So I used an soldering iron with a small tip, put some flux tape where the doubled-sided tape sits on the pads and soldered the cable back together at about 390 degrees celsius. It now works perfectly again.

    Raphael - Reply

    • Remove the four Y000 screws securing the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor:

      • One 1.1 mm screw

      • Three 1.3 mm screws

    Why is the screw over top of the home button so difficult to get out… has anyone else experienced this..? This is twice now I've struggled to get that screw

    Brandon - Reply

    The screw to the left holding the heatshield is never mentioned in this guide

    Beerbo - Reply

    No reason to touch that screw unless you’re removing the shield—in which case, this step instructs you to remove it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    So I stripped the screw furthest to the left, how can i possibly remove it now? Can I just buy a new LCD shield and home bracket button and screw and will that work just fine on the new screen replacement? this stripped screw of mine is not coming out

    Bryan Ferrer - Reply

    That should work, as long as you can still get the home button/sensor out without damage. For removing a stripped screw this size, I’d probably try supergluing it to the driver—or else just drill the top of the screw off and then remove the bracket, leaving the screw shaft embedded in the old display. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I used the same driver for all of these screws. Had to apply a lot of pressure before trying to unscrew it and it was fine.

    jessica harlow - Reply

    This is wrong, the size you need is Y00 for the 1.1mm screws and Y000 for the 1.3mm one.

    Robert Clark - Reply

    The heads on those screws are identical. I’ve never had any trouble using a Y000 for all of them. Use whatever works for you I guess.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I’ve managed to strip the screw on the right hand side - not the far right, just right of the home button. Any ideas on how to get it out without glue (I don’t have any)

    Christie Ellen - Reply

    My screwdriver is too big to get out the screws

    Coolinee Kerman - Reply

    My eyesight isn’t what it used to be. That said, the replacement screen that arrived already had screws in the two outside positions. It took me a minute to figure this out when I was trying to install the home button. I couldn’t figure out why the screws weren’t going in. I thought the holes were filled or something… Nope. screws. Took them out and used them.. all good.

    Critter - Reply

    My 7 had quite a bit of loctite holding these bad boys on. I stripped the one to the right of the home button and after using many “sentence enhancers” I was able to remove it using good tweezers and quite a bit of hand strength. I think that heating up the screws here is not an option because the cables lie underneath the plate and would probably get damaged from the amount of heat needed to loosen the loctite. Be patient here, and maybe have spare Y000 drivers because you may damage your driver getting these screws out.

    P Park - Reply

    If your having trouble. I recommend you guys to buy the Y00o driver at amazon. It look golden. It works very will .

    Jonathan curz - Reply

    Read instead of: “Remove the four Y000 screws”. “Remove the four Philips 00 screws”. Thats the case what occurs to me.

    Henk - Reply

    • Remove the bracket that secures the home/Touch ID sensor.

    Add Comment

    • Pry under the left edge of the home button cable connector to disconnect it from its socket.

      • If the entire connector begins to flip up without separating, press down on the cable at the top edge of the connector with the flat of your spudger, while simultaneously prying up the left edge of the connector. Be very careful not to damage the cable or connector, or you will permanently disable the sensor.

    Well, I just damaged the home button connector in step 31. It is completely off the cable. What now? Can I buy this home button?

    LadyTech - Reply

    I think you can not do it because your phone is not identify for new cable.

    Ali Alsaed - Reply

    Best thing to do here is to NOT pry up on the connector, but to insert the pry tool on the left side until the connector is dislodged.

    Oscar Moreno - Reply

    use one pry tool to hold down, another to pull up.

    Christa - Reply

    I did it. :-( i broke it

    Peter Keller - Reply

    • Carefully pry up the underlying connector and move it out of the way of the home/Touch ID cable.

      • It's very easy to damage your iPhone during this step. Work slowly and take care where you pry with your tool. If you damage the Touch ID hardware, it can only be replaced by Apple.

      • If the connector doesn't pry up easily, use a hair dryer or iOpener to heat and soften the adhesive securing the connector, and then try again.

      • Don't try to detach the connector completely—simply flip it up slightly so that the underlying home/Touch ID sensor cable can be removed.

    Make sure that you fold this cable out when fitting your replacement before you fasten the shield back down. I didn’t but managed to loosen 2 screws on the shield to get the cable out.

    chris_sawyer - Reply

    • Heating the area around the home/Touch ID sensor will help soften the adhesive holding its delicate cable in place, making it easier to remove safely.

    • Flip the display assembly over. Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the display for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    Add Comment

    • Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel.

    It cannot be stressed enough that this is the one part of this repair that you can’t screw up. Anything else you’ll deal with during this repair can be easily replaced (The screen, and the sensor/microphone/camera assembly). Tearing this cable means an expensive trip to the apple store. or a very unhappy customer if you’re doing this for someone. Heat is your friend. I don’t even use a spudger or a guitar pick for this one, I use a new playing card to pull this up. Even with the card, you have to be careful. The edge of the playing card can nick the cable if you’re not careful to get it under the ribbon cable. If the adhesive isn’t soft enough for the card to get it up, apply more heat. Again, you can’t screw this step up. It’s all or nothing.

    Spartan99 - Reply

    • Remove the home/Touch ID sensor assembly by lifting it through the front side of the display.

    • To reinstall, first feed the cable through the hole in the front of the display.

    • Your replacement part may come with an extra Y000 screw already installed right of the Home Button. Remove the unnecessary screw so that you can reinstall the home button bracket.

    True to this picture, the home button can only be removed (and put back in place) through the front of the LCD assembly.

    Talon - Reply

    Very good comment Talon. That was the first thing I was looking for here. There should be a bullet point in step 24 - Carefully remove home button from front of display being careful not to damage cable.

    Tracey - Reply

    Had an issue when putting the screen back on, the side where the cables attach would not sit flush. At first I thought the cables were pushing the screen up. Turned out to be the battery cable shield was just a fraction too far down toward home button. After loosening screws, nudging it up slightly and screwing back in, the screen sat flush as it should. In case anyone else has same issue.

    jbarry - Reply

    Is there anything special about reassembling the "home" button ?

    I tried several times with several buttons but none works.

    Lambiel - Reply

    • Peel back the upper, rectangular portion of the LCD shield plate sticker to separate it from the flex cable underneath.

      • You don't need to remove the sticker completely unless you intend to replace it.

    Add Comment

    • Use a Y000 driver to remove three 1.1 mm screws from one side of the display EMI shield.

      • If you have trouble loosening these screws, press the driver harder onto the screw as you turn it. If necessary, use the flat edge of your spudger to brace each display clip from behind so you can apply more pressure to the screws, without bending the clips.

    Add Comment

    • Use a Y000 driver to remove two more 1.1 mm screws from the other side of the EMI shield.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the 1.8 mm Phillips screw securing the EMI shield near the bottom of the display.

    Add Comment

    • Lift the LCD shield plate while pressing down on the flex cable it surrounds.

    • Feed the flex cable through the cutout in the LCD shield plate, being careful not to snag it.

    What if the black rectangle part that goes around the little silver rectangul is broken

    Brittany Jackson - Reply

    I broke one. It just would not go back around the part, so I just put it around what I could and the phone worked fine. I’m replacing the panel on another one right now that someone else had already replaced, (the girl broke her screen again) and the little black part was just laid on top of the silver part and it worked fine. Don’t have a clue why that little black rectangle is even there. It doesn’t appear to be needed.

    mcr4u2 - Reply

    • Remove the LCD shield plate.

    Add Comment

    • Only the LCD and digitizer assembly remains.

    Add Comment


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

96 other people completed this guide.

Jeff Suovanen

Member since: 08/06/2013

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Step 14 Pic# 3 the second cable damaged , what can i do ?!

Ameed Bader - Reply

If you damaged only the cable and nothing else, replacing the display should solve the problem—it will come with new cables attached.

Jeff Suovanen -

For anyone performing hardware exchanges, there is a free app on Apple store called Dr. Phone that can be used to test the several hardware components… Nice to do before closing it up..

H. Alves - Reply

Has anyone else had trouble getting the Y000 screws out from the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor? All other Y000 came out no problem. These are fighting me. The driver seems to be spinning in place as if too big. Follow up question. If I strip these screws, any idea how to get them out then?

jferguson757 - Reply

I'm having the same issue. I stripped out the home button screw help please!

Chris Ellis - Reply

Step 16 remember to not put the cable back upside down -.-

onikristy - Reply

Excellent guide. Thank you very very much.

roycomp10 - Reply

i changed the screen and iphone 7 plus is not working at all… central button is making crazy noises (bumpings) when i touch it. any help plz?

la la - Reply

Usually my replacements go great, but I’m not having any luck this time and I think I may have damaged a connector. I’ve attached the new screen, but it doesn’t turn on. I tried attaching the old and it no longer lights up. If I call the phone, it vibrates, so I know it is working. I also noticed that pressing the power button when it is vibrating from a call does not silence it. So I don’t think that button is working either…

Has anyone else run in to this issue?

Christopher - Reply

Sounds a lot like a blown backlight circuit. Usually when this happens, it’s because the battery wasn’t disconnected properly when removing or installing the display connectors. You can confirm by shining a bright light on the display when the phone is switched on—if you see a faint image, that’s a backlight failure. This is a common issue, and perfectly fixable, but requires board-level repair skills and equipment (read: not a DIY). Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

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