Use this guide to replace a faulty front camera on your iPhone 7 Plus. This camera is part of a larger assembly containing a microphone and proximity/ambient light sensors, all of which is replaced as a single unit.

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.

    pargoff - Reply

    The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    @jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.

    Ben Meinhart - Reply

    Hang on a second here, doesn’t the Ifixit part I ordered come with the seals? The display assembly? It doesn’t. Now I have to wait another week?!

    Vanessa Pinter - Reply

    How do you turn off if the screen isn’t responding to touch?

    adam - Reply

  2. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    How long should I use a hairdryer for?

    Warren Binder - Reply

    I used it until it was hot to the touch but not too hot where you burn yourself.

    gczarny -

    • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

      • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

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    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

      • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

    • While pulling up on the suction cup, twist the spudger to widen the opening between the screen and rear case.

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    • Insert the flat end of the spudger between the front panel and the rear case at the lower left edge of the iPhone.

    • Slide the spudger up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

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    • Remove the spudger from the left side of the phone and insert the flat end into the bottom right corner.

    • Slide the spudger up the right edge of the phone to the top corner, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

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    • Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

      • Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are delicate ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

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    • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

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    • Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

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    • Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

      • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

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    • Remove the following four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board:

      • Three 1.2 mm screws

      • One 2.6 mm screw

    Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.

    u204863 - Reply

    Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?

    shannon caldwell - Reply

    At first I think I was being too careful and was getting no where. I got better results by pressing down on the screwdriver with more pressure while turning and those little screws came right out.

    LadyTech - Reply

    I cannot remove one of the corner screws in this step and i have used the tweezers and the y000 tri tip and i am afraid that it is stripping it. is there a work around for this step?

    Katherine Monday - Reply

    @katmonday1 No workaround unfortunately. Make sure the driver tip is in good condition and fits the screw correctly. Seat it in the screw, hold the driver perfectly vertical, press down hard (and maintain it), and turn. It’ll come out. If it’s really stripped you’ll have to get more aggressive—try one or more of the techniques in this guide or get some help. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • Remove the lower display cable bracket.

    I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    chris west - Reply

    If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.

    Scott Havard - Reply

    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

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    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

    • To re-attach press connectors, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

    The note about the danger of pressing on the connector incorrectly is very legitimate. Though I find it more practical to use a wide (1.5 cm) case opener tool to press it down all at once. Minimizes risk of bending the connector.

    Talon - Reply

    What can happen if the battery is not disconnected before the two lower display connectors?

    Alextay - Reply

    • Remove the three tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector:

      • One 1.3 mm screw

      • Two 1.0 mm screws

    • Remove the bracket.

    Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.

    chris west - Reply

    I know your comment was posted a long time ago but just in case someone else has the same problem, the only difference in the screws are the lengths. The ends are the same.

    mcr4u2 - Reply

    • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

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    • Remove the five Phillips screws securing the earpiece speaker bracket:

      • Two 1.8 mm screws

      • One 2.3 mm screw

      • One 2.4 mm screw

      • One 2.8 mm screw

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    • Remove the earpiece speaker bracket.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the front-facing camera from its housing.

    • Gently bend the camera ribbon cable to the side to clear the way to the earpiece speaker underneath.

    How is this bit waterproofed on re-assembly?

    Cool_Breeze - Reply

    • Remove the earpiece speaker.

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    • Gently fold the camera and attached ribbon cable toward the bottom of the iPhone to allow access to the components underneath.

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    • The sensors on this step are fragile. To increase your chances of removing them without damage, use your iOpener or hair dryer to apply heat to the upper portion of the display before you proceed. Alternatively, add a drop or two of isopropyl alcohol and let it penetrate under the sensors before you pry them up.

    • Slide a spudger under the ambient light sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing.

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    • Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the proximity sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing.

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    • Insert the sharp edge of an iFixit opening tool underneath the camera assembly's flex cable, on the opposite side from the front-facing camera.

      • If necessary, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the top portion of the display and soften the adhesive securing the flex cable.

    • Pry up to separate the edge of the flex cable from the back of the display.

    prying this up is sometimes difficult. I always keep a new one on hand incase. they are not expensive. if you separate the black strip, prox sensor will not work.

    Lee Attaway - Reply

    what if the black tape and the flex got seperated, is there a solution to get the earspeaker work gain? coz i tried putting the adhesive tape again behind the flex but still no luck.. what can i do?

    Mac -

    i think this just happened to me…

    william seiji marini - Reply

    • Insert the point of a spudger underneath the same portion of the flex cable that you separated in the previous step.

    • Continue separating the remainder of the flex cable, pushing the spudger toward the row of circular gold earpiece speaker contacts.

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    • Continue using your spudger to carefully separate the last of the flex cable from the back of the display.

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    • Remove the front camera and sensor cable assembly.

    • A piece of black double-sided insulating tape lies between the display and three rows of copper contacts on the back of the camera/sensor cable. It may remain stuck to the display, or it may come off with the cable.

      • When reassembling, verify the tape is in place, or else cover the contacts on the back of the cable with an appropriate tape, such as Kapton tape.

    Is there instruction on how to bend the cable?

    Steven Martinez - Reply

    You really need that tape, If still no sound after placing the tape in place, then you might have damaged the flex cable. Worthy to mention, that some replacement screens come without the ambient light filter (white film seem on the screen) and without the plastic brackets for the camera and proximity sensor, which in those cases, you would have to transfer those parts to the new screen. Also in some screens, the holes for the proximity sensor are not properly done and you might end up with a non-working proximity sensor. In those cases, just remove the pain with the spugger where the proximity sensor locates (removes the black paint) and then add some black permanent marker over it to make it black. That way, it will look pristine form the outside but just thin enough for the proximity sensor to work.

    H. Alves - Reply

    I had issues regarding sound after reassembling the iPhone. I initially used kapton tape. I could hear the caller but they could hear me. I checked every avenue I thought of, I recorded myself speaking which was fine so there was nothing wrong with the mic. I ended up heating the black insulator and transferring it and reseating the earpiece and flex assembly. After a couple attempts the mic was restored to normal operation.

    Paul Wilson - Reply

    yeah the mic and the earpiece not working , what is the solution for this problem ?

    يوسف الريمي - Reply

    Do not pull on the cable an be gentle with the heat. There is a potential that the cable, which is soldered together on this part.

    I had an issue with a costumers flex cable an the ear speaker stopped working bit the cable looked okay and I did not pull on it. So I used an soldering iron with a small tip, put some flux tape where the doubled-sided tape sits on the pads and soldered the cable back together at about 390 degrees celsius. It now works perfectly again.

    Raphael - Reply


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Jeff Suovanen

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One Comment

Do I have to do this if i buy a new phone screen or do they usually come with one?

Tom Robinson - Reply

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