Introduction

Use this guide to bring life back to your iPhone 6s Plus with a new battery. For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery: Drain it below 10%, then charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

This guide instructs you to detach the front panel assembly; this is intended to prevent damage to the display cables. If you feel comfortable supporting the display carefully while peeling the battery out of the iPhone, you can skip the display removal and go directly to the battery removal steps.

You can also use this guide to replace the battery connector bracket.

Video Overview

  1. Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm Pentalobe screws on either side of the Lightning port.

    Make sure you use the correct screw driver tip to remove these screws, which for the iPhone 6s Plus is the P2, otherwise you may strip the tip of the screw making it 10 times harder to remove. If once the screw is lose, it will not come off, use a magnet to remove it.

    Miguel Perez - Reply

    If I do it by myself, will it damage the water resistant strip?

    I know iphone 7 have it ,but I am not sure 6s plus have it.

    Ganqian Zhu - Reply

    iPhone 6s has an adhesive gasket under the display, similar to the iPhone 7—however, it doesn’t add much in the way of waterproofing since the 6s has non-sealed openings in other parts of the phone. Water resistance on the 6s is primarily internal (seals around the logic board connectors, etc.). It may still be worthwhile to replace the adhesive on the 6s in order to help keep the display firmly seated so it doesn’t move/wobble at all under pressure, but the phone will continue to work fine whether you replace the adhesive or not.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Salve nella procedura iniziale di smontaggio display con la ventosa non è menzionato il fatto di scaldare i lati del display per “ammorbidire” la striscia che incolla il display alla scocca.

    Non è necessaria la cosa o è consigliabile ?

    grazie

    Hello, in the initial disassembling procedure with the suction cup, it is not mentioned how to heat the sides of the display to "soften" the strip that glues the display to the body.

    Is not the thing necessary or is it advisable?

    thank you

    Daniele - Reply

    How do I know that the Battery has ZERO Charging Cycles on it when it arrives ? Is there a (downside) to Higher Capacity batteries ? It is INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT to maintain a “Zero Chinese Products Lifestyle”, so how do I know that I’m not getting a deficient Chinese battery, potentially a refurb. battery ?

    integritybuilders - Reply

    When your repair is complete, you can use coconutBattery to check your new battery stats and cycle count. (A properly tested battery may already have a charge cycle or two on it.) Avoid higher capacity batteries on iPhones—they’re generally either gimmicks, unsafe, or both. As far as the quality of the part, that comes down to how much you trust your supplier and whether they guarantee the product.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  2. Opening the display on the 6s Plus separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.
    • Opening the display on the 6s Plus separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.

    • Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.

    take out screws first!!

    Yoav Karmon - Reply

    Make sure you use the right screw driver tip for i phone 6s Plus, which is the P-2. If the screw will not come off once is lose, try using a magnet.

    Miguel Perez - Reply

    My cracked screen prevented the suction cup from sealing. SOLUTION: With a piece of clear packing tape across the screen, the suction cup will seal and pull.

    Jim Cowles - Reply

    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    I had a shattered front glass panel so I could not get the suction cup to seal properly. I tried a couple of different ways to get good suction but to no avail. I eventually used a Stanley knife to pry up the corner so I could get the spudger into the opening.

    John Architzel - Reply

    A really high quality packing tape over the entire screen will usually be enough to use the suction cup on a shattered screen.

    djwooten -

    I used a suction cup on each side to provide counter traction. I braced the iphone between my knees and pulled apart while my helper inserted the spudger

    jkanne - Reply

    This was by FAR the most difficult part of this whole thing. I confess the spudger was not cutting it so I used a butter knife to get into the small opening first, then used the spudger to go around the screen.

    Julie Sanchez - Reply

    Hey everyone, if you never have done this part before be aware there is an extremely strong adhesive around the lip of the screen and once again is extremely strong. I had to get a friend to insert the pry/pick into the small gap while I used one hand to brace the phone down and the other to pull the suction cup without it digging into my hand. Go slow, it took me 5 tries because I didn’t realize how strong the adhesive was.

    bartmistrot - Reply

    I also had a badly cracked lower screen - that glass was actually threatening to pull off the phone in chunks during this step, even with packing tape. Resorted to @j2arch’s tip and inserted a utility knife vertically into the seam between the display and phone body. Was able to lever the glass enough to get the spudger in there.

    Jason Augustyn - Reply

    I have replaced sevrel screens for my sister in law and my niece. The packing tape has worked every time and that’s with it Shattered and pieces already falling out. You have to make sure the packing tape goes to the edge of the screen but doesn’t touch the frame. I have the plier like screen remover and use that it is much easier to remove the screen by your self with that tool. I also have the little finger suction cup that comes with the kit here. I bought the plier suction cup tool When I had to replace the screen that had the pieces of the screen missing and I don’t regret spending the extra money for that it has made a world of difference. I do this as a hobby it’s not a job for me. The electric divide repair kit from Lowe’s is also a very good kit to help. If you’re only going to do it once the kit that comes with the package is a great deal from ifixit. Well worth the money to spend the little extra to get the kit if you all ready don’t have the tools.

    Brent - Reply

    • The safest place to pry from is the notch in the front panel above the headphone jack.

    • While still maintaining pressure on the suction cup, insert the flat tip of a spudger into the gap, directly above the headphone jack.

    This was by far the hardest part of the repair for me. Getting leverage while finding a way to prod with a spudger is a challenge in coordination. I used a second spudger with point holding the phone down by the headphone jack, with the other end of the spudger anchored to my desk.

    drpotter - Reply

    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel and the rear case.

    just changed the screen, but due to the tape along side the screen , it is best to heat a little so the glue losses and you can get the screen off better, like indicated

    Bart Blanckaert - Reply

    • While firmly pulling up on the suction cup, slide the edge of the spudger under the bottom left corner of the display.

    Add Comment

    • Slide the tip of the spudger up the left side of the phone, between the front panel and the rear case.

    Add Comment

    • Insert the flat tip of the spudger under the right edge of the display.

    • Slide the spudger up the right side.

    Add Comment

    • Use a plastic opening tool to hold down the rear case while pulling up the suction cup to open the phone.

      • Do not remove the display completely, or you will damage the data cables connecting the display near the top edge of the iPhone.

    Add Comment

    • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the display.

    Remember to apply the screen gasket on the re-assemble. The gasket is provided in the kit but not mentioned here on the instructions.

    Won Hong - Reply

    There’s a link to the entire gasket replacement procedure in Step 21.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.

    • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

      • Don't open the display more than 90º—it is still connected to the top of the phone by the display, digitizer, and front camera cables which can tear easily.

      • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

      • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to support the display.

    Add Comment

    • Remove two Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:

      • One 2.9 mm screw

      • One 2.3 mm screw

    • Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.

    FYI - I used some blue painters tape wrapped around a piece of cardboard to hold the screws and brackets in place, in order, so they did not get lost. Some of those screws are MICROSCOPIC so be careful!

    I also suggest having very good lighting, even a camping headlight for hands-free well lit work space. You will thank me later :-)

    Julie Sanchez - Reply

    Use the bit labeled “PH000”.

    Joe Teichert - Reply

    PH000 bit just wants to free-spin in the 2.3 mm screw. no bite in the head at all. had no difficulty removing the 2.9 mm screw with the same Phillips. had to abandon battery replacement effort.

    Benjamin Stalcup - Reply

    For this part, neither PH000 or Y000 worked. Technically, it’ll set you back 31$ because you will need the PH00 screwdriver for this part, and the part where you need to open the screen. They have ph00 screwdrivers in every hardware store and even ifixit.com. just know that they put the wrong screwheads for you

    Jack Daniel - Reply

    • Remove the battery connector bracket.

    Does it matter if the brackets arent put back in the phone? I bought a used phone and brackets are missing. Thanks!

    Coupon Crazy - Reply

    • Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up off the logic board.

    Add Comment

    • Bend the connector back to ensure it doesn't make contact and power the iPhone on while you're working on it.

    See my comment at the end of the procedure. If you work carefully, you need not remove the logic board and can skip ahead to step 38 after completing this step (disconnecting battery).

    Mark Cousins - Reply

    When putting the new battery in, make sure to line up the plug and not to the top of the battery… our battery was smaller so the plug would NOT have lined up if we used the top of the battery. ALSO, the plug was NOT 90 degrees so we had to finagle the plug. Also, make sure there is a clear CLICK when you plug in the connector or it may not work. Ours went in but guess didn’t go far enough so we had to take the screen off and push it harder until we heard the “click” then it worked fine.

    Won Hong - Reply

    • Remove the following Phillips screws:

      • Three 1.3 mm screws

      • One 1.6 mm screw

      • One 3.0 mm screw

        • During reassembly, it's critical to place this 3.0 mm screw in the top-right corner of the bracket. Placing it anywhere else may damage the logic board.

    I really don't see value in removing screen use box and rubber band keep at 90 degrees.

    John Parker - Reply

    I leave screen on as well for this. - Tho I prefer a 45 degree lean.

    Thor -

    I just changed my battery and also left the screen attached. I was lucky enough to get all 3 adhesive battery strips out clean so I didn’t have a struggle with the battery coming out. If I was going to need to get rough with it I was going to take the screen off at that point.

    Michael Gross - Reply

    To keep track of screws, draw a quick outline of the display cable bracket/cover, with five dots where screws should be. Drop the screws on the corresponding dot. Helps if you use magnet pad.

    Christa - Reply

    Better yet, print out the pictures from the iFixit website, and use clear tape (“Scotch tape”) to TAPE the screws onto the place in the picture where they belong.

    Tom -

    Which screwdriver from the kit do I use for which screw?

    Shiva Sharma - Reply

    I made a mistake and unscrewed the screw just north north west of the one circled in yellow. Of course I lost the screw. Can anyone give me any guidance about this? what does the wire connected to it do? What is the size of the screw, in case I have to replace it?

    P.S. This is another reason to consider the possibility of NOT removing the screen just to replace the battery: removing the screen presents a additional possible headache, especially for people like me with bad eyesight who probably shouldn’t be doing this in the first place.

    Tom - Reply

    • Remove the display cable bracket.

    Add Comment

    • Be careful to only pry up on the connector itself and not the socket on the logic board.

    • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

    FYI, in the video she uses the spudger for this but I think either one will work.

    Julie Sanchez - Reply

    • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

    • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

    Thanks you i fix it

    God Hand - Reply

    “When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage. “

    The following note above was so helpful. I was speeding through the process of getting things back together, since it seemed easy to connect the digitizer cable, but I kept pushing it in the middle and I wouldn’t connect. Until I read through this step and realized it was easier if I would’ve connected one side and then the opposite side right after.

    Jeffrey Robinos - Reply

    Don’t be too shy when pushing the ends of the digitizer connector back to place. If it does not connect properly, you might face the “half backlight” problem, even if you did not kill any LCD filter. Also check carefully, that you don’t clamp parts of the sticky sealing material placed around the connector inside the connection area.

    Norbert Andreas Richartz - Reply

    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

    • Disconnect the display cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

    How much is this to replace?

    Alistair knight - Reply

    And where could I buy from?

    Alistair knight - Reply

    After finishing the assembly I got the message “Touch ID cannot be enabled on this phone”. I found this connector was loose. Plugged it back in and that fixed it.

    Bryan Province - Reply

    Always make sure to disconnect the battery before you do any work on the phone replacing any parts the digitizer or anything. And before you start make sure the phone is turned off you don’t want any power surges. If you also have a static electricity bracelet that also is a plus to use but isn’t a necessity just a nice piece of mind. Some cases you do need to use one so you don’t discharge static electricity to an electrical component and mess it up.

    Brent - Reply

    Be very careful in this step. I noticed it’s very easy to tear the flex when trying to lift it out of its socket from the right side.

    shoeib - Reply

    What is the cable and how is it connected/fixed to the motherboard between the bottom socket and the screw hole.

    Mine came loose somehow?

    Jason Engelsman - Reply

    I figured out my own question its the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable. But how is it connected/secured to the motherboard?

    Jason Engelsman - Reply

  3. You need to clarify where exactly these "adhesive strips around the display" are, what they look like, and where to purchase new ones from.

    Anthony - Reply

    You can see what they look like in this blog post. Hopefully we'll have replacement adhesive strips available in the future, but right now I don't know of any suppliers. Your phone will work fine without replacing the adhesive—if I had to guess, I'd say it's there as a little extra insurance against display wobble now that 3D Touch has users pushing harder on their phones.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    We now have a detailed guide for replacing the adhesive strips, and we should have them in stock soon. The guide has been updated to reflect this.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    For instructions on home button swap out to the new screen you just installed, go here

    iPhone 6s Plus Home Button Assembly Replacement

    Superior Office Systems - Reply

    Do you know whether the adhesive contributes to waterproofing, or just for stability/adhesion?

    Christa - Reply

    @kitabel The iPhone 6s case isn’t waterproof, so I don’t think adhesive around the display is contributing anything other than stability. The 6s series does have some water resistance, but it’s mostly internal and not something Apple advertises.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • Peel back the tips of the three battery adhesive strips along the bottom edge of the battery.

    OK - second most challenging part of the swap. TAKE YOUR TIME! It is hard to pull the strips out without getting them caught on the metal edge parts inside which can tear them, but do them one at a time, pull slow but steady, and as it stretches, grab the tape closer down near the body of the phone. You will not believe how far these things can stretch!

    I was successful with getting 2/3 of them out but the one closest to the guts - the first one I tried to hurry - broke off. I got the other two out then needed to use a credit card to get up & under to loosen the battery. Another video I saw showed slightly warming up the back of the phone using a hair dryer set on low which would loosen the adhesive, but I did not do that. I was able to get the battery up far enough to use the tweezers to grab the adhesive and then pull it out.

    Julie Sanchez - Reply

    I’m absolutely stuck here. I don’t see the adhesive strips at the bottom of the battery. I only see the flat cable that wraps around the bottom of the battery, which is now separated. I don’t think it was supposed to separate like that.

    David Warshowsky - Reply

    • Gather the ends of all three adhesive strips in your hand.

    • Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

    When I did this, the 5 inch strip stretched to about 3 feet.

    Joe Teichert - Reply

    • Gently pull the battery adhesive tabs away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

      • To avoid tearing the adhesive strip, be careful not to pull against the battery or lower components.

      • Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strips as they slip out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strips at a 60º angle or less.

      • The strips will stretch to many times their original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strips near the battery if necessary.

    • Hold down the battery with one hand as you pull, or the elastic strips may fling the battery from the phone once they're separated from the rear case.

    Use a set of curved tweasers to pull each strip clear of the bottom left corner of the battery. Then the strips will pull out alongside the battery and the frame almost effortlessly. Do this for each strip and your battery should almost fall out.

    Dustin DeShaney - Reply

    I found it better to pull one strip at a time

    John Parker - Reply

    Do them separately or they will probably rip like mine did :(

    Christopher Eccles - Reply

    Pulling them separately is a good idea especially if it’s your first time. My middle strip tore at the beginning and I had to pry the battery up and then I was able to remove the remaining strip of adhesive. While prying the old battery in an upward angle it did start to bend I believe I achieved a 35 degree angle

    Gregory - Reply

    Definitely agree one at a time - see my comment above for more detail. Also possible to slightly warm the back of the phone first using hair dryer set on low. This loosens the adhesive if for some reason you break a strip off & have to pry the battery out (CAREFULLY)

    Julie Sanchez - Reply

    I used a hair dryer to warm the back of the phone, and I still broke two of the three “taffy stickers”. If I did it again, I would keep the back warm with a hair dryer, and gradually pull one piece straight out at a time at as low an angle as possible. Unfortunately, the small backers came off my perimeter adhesive, so as I pulled the taffy stickers out, it stuck to the perimeter adhesive and messed it up. Perhaps remove the battery before applying the new adhesive around the edge of the phone? Everything was going well for me until this step.

    Joe Teichert - Reply

    Nightmare. All three strips broke. I did get the battery out with a combination of dental floss, a guitar string, and a few cut-down credit cards. But the adhesive is very strong even when warmed, and the outer wrapper of the battery tore during removal. I was afraid of it heating up and sparking, as I have seen other damaged lithium ion batteries do.

    Garrett McWilliams - Reply

    If your battery is bend, DO NOT TRY TO RE-FLATTEN it again cause my battery were BURNT. luckily i’ve drain the battery beforehand till <28% but next time i’ll drain it until <5% to reduce the energy if it catch fire, i believe if the battery is in full charge it will explode. Dont try to extinguish the battery since it will not until it all the energy is burnt. Just keep it controlled. And REMEMBER TO DRAIN YOUR BATTERY BEFORE DETACH.

    osbert intanu - Reply

    • If you successfully removed all three adhesive strips, move on to the next step. Otherwise, you will need to pry the battery from the rear case.

    • Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the back of the rear case, directly over the battery. Alternatively, you can apply heat using a heat gun or hair dryer.

    • After about a minute, flip the phone over and use a plastic card to break up any remaining adhesive behind the battery.

      • Do not insert your card in the area between the volume down (-) button and the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the volume control cable lying underneath.

      • Do not pry against the logic board or you may damage the phone.

      • Keep the card as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals or catch fire. Do not use any sharp tools to pry at the battery.

    • Alternatively, a piece of dental floss may be used to separate the battery from the rear case. A stronger alternative to dental floss is an unwound guitar string, such as a 0.009 E string from a 12-string set.

    • Thread the floss or string behind the upper battery corners, bring the ends together, wrap them around a folded cloth, and pull evenly.

    I didn’t have an iOpener on hand (although plan on purchasing one now). I remembered that I had some handwarmers lying around, and they worked well to apply enough heat to help release the adhesive strips easily.

    Jami - Reply

    • Remove the battery.

    • If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove the sleeve before installation by pulling it away from the the ribbon cable.

    • When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips.

    • Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

    I recommend putting the battery in place BEFORE putting the new adhesive strips to make sure you know for sure that the battery connector lines up with the socket. I ended up with a battery wire that was just a bit too long and I mounted the battery way at top of the pocket (big mistake). Even after moving the battery down, the connector wire was still a little too long, so I had to connect the battery and shove the wire between the battery and logic board as much as I could. Checking the battery beforehand could save some adhesive strips from going to waste.

    joetalaga - Reply

    Thanks for the tip, joetalaga!

    Joe Teichert - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery: Drain battery below 10%, then charge uninterrupted to 100%.

256 other people completed this guide.

Evan Noronha

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47 Comments

Most common on IPhone 6s/6 repair jobs is this battery replacement. Great tutorial!

Raymond Amansec - Reply

so few comments on this one?!

has any/many done this without the adhesive strips.. and was it ok?

sarah - Reply

If you mean the battery adhesive strips, sure—you can put a piece of double-sided tape down the back of the battery, and it probably won't move anywhere. There's not much room for the battery to move anyway. Use the adhesive strips if you want to do it right—but, if you're in a bind and you just need the phone working, you can skip the strips. And you can always open the phone back up and add the adhesive strips later.

If you mean the adhesive gasket around the display, the answer is pretty much the same—It's better to have it, but it doesn't hurt anything to put the phone back together without it.

Jeff Suovanen -

by far the easiest repair I've done. only 3 screws! really dont think the cables need to be disconneted. i just used a shoe lace to gently hold up the screen. sticky strips came out fine. happy. thanks.

sarah - Reply

Where can one buy the adhesive gasket for the case

Sandeep singh - Reply

I know almost a year later to reply, but if you buy the battery kit, the adhesive gasket for the display comes with it—along with a pentalobe screw liberation kit.

joetalaga -

Is the battery OEM apple one

Sandeep singh - Reply

The battery from the iFixit battery kit is not OEM, but it is tested and guaranteed with a one-year warranty.

joetalaga -

i want to aperfect technecian give me your advise

dawit ican✔ - Reply

Where can I buy de adhesive that is around the display? Can I use B7000 glue?

Ezequiel Braunstein - Reply

Reassembly of the display to the chassis was a terrible ordeal until I realized that the front-facing camera connector and sensor cable connector cables had changed position in the 3-cable stack. This is possible--try it yourself:

Follow the two disconnected cables back to the display.

Swap them by tucking the smaller connector cable UNDER the bigger connector cable. You can do it because the angle that they exit the display lets them lie either way, on top of the other or under it.

You'll know immediately when trying to re-attach the connectors because the big connector needs to be the second (middle) one. Otherwise the cables can be hooked up with a lot of fiddle but they won't fold to fit under the cover..

Ned Bedinger - Reply

The battery adhesive -- my case used to get hot until i changed the batt. Two-sided tape (like carpet tape) might not let heat shed betweenor or through the strips. Using two-side non-specifc tape in wide stripsfrom a roll? It makes me wonder about heat-managing properties of official batt tape.

Ned Bedinger - Reply

The old battery blew up on me while replacing, because the battery adhesive strips tore. I didn't have a plastic card to unstick the battery, so I had to bend it. That's why it blew up, so be careful guys, because I absolutely didn't expect that. There was lots of smoke and I burned myself a little bit.

I thought my phone will die after that, but I connected new battery and everything works fine.

Roman Visente - Reply

may i change 6s plus battery with 6 plus?

Charles Cho - Reply

Wow! That was awesome. It's amazing how easy things can be when they are designed to be replaced! One note though, when I was draining my new battery, at below 10% it would not play sound. I could not play music, or hear phone calls, I could however be heard. After having opened my phone so recently I was worried a connection had come loose or been missed entirely. Once charged to 100% everything behaved as expected. I am not sure if that is normal or not. I could totally understand restricting power use at those levels, but does it? I didn't "enter power save" not knowingly at least.

Michael Cornforth - Reply

Very straight forward instructions. Easy to follow; video helped as well. Took me about 1 hour to complete. Phone is charging now. Looking forward to see how the new battery performs. Thanks very much for this site and to all contributors! I like fixing things myself. 11/19/17.

Patrick Dunlap - Reply

I don’t get why you need to take the screen off really.

AmMahabir - Reply

This guide is make from an iPhone 6s total tear down

Mandy -

I've done this twice and each time I can't get the old adhesive to come off cleanly. I had to use an iopener each time. Just be careful and not bend your battery. It will get hot and smoke if you bend it a lot. Other than that, real easy to replace.

chuongho - Reply

Just got done with my first iPhone battery replacement. Took me about an hour. I think the hardest part for me was getting the screen popped open enough to get the spudger in there. I ended up using an iOpener to warm the adhesive a little and it was a little easier to open enough to get the spudger in there. I also used the plastic scalpel tool from the Pro TechToolkit to cut the adhesive loose before shoving the spudger in there.

joetalaga - Reply

Hi,

I followed this tuto and I successfully changed the battery on my iPhone 6 S Plus without any difficulty. But, after then change, touchId feature does not work anymore. Main button is working fine, only touchId feature is faulty: I have a message saying that touchId feature will not be available on the phone.

I wonder if the fact that I disconnected the touchId connector (part of the 3 screen connectors), and reconnected it at the end, may act as the screen itself was changed. Some messages on forums tell that in this case, the iPhone refuses to reactivate touchId feature.

If someone can help it would be great.

Thxs,

Jean-Claude Ribiere - Reply

This was my first ever DIY replacement from iFixit. This guide was absolutely on spot and it was so easy for me to replace the battery. Thanks.

Anubhav - Reply

Don’t be as stupid as me and follow the guide at the step 23. It’s really difficult to pull all the tabs together, better try it to pull out a single one and then go on with the next one.

Everything else worked like the guide said.

Elias Bürgisser - Reply

The same here as Jean-Claude Ribiere experienced. My iPhone 6s plus refuses to activate touch-id after successful battery replacement. Main button works fine. I have found no help on any forums for this issue and would like post a warning for this repair guide.

Kalle Punsvik - Reply

Was the battery the only component you replaced? if so, it’s likely you damaged one of the cables during the process.

These phones are very delicate and it is easy to cause unseen damage if you’re not careful.

Jonathan Reynolds -

In general the instructions were clear. Only thing missing is the gasket instructions as it is included in the kit but not in the instructions.

Won Hong - Reply

Yes, and gasket instructions are needed. I tried to install the gasket and could not get it to seat properly and gave up. You only get one try and then it is ruined.

richlove -

There should be large red bold letters in this procedure telling you to make sure the battery is not connected when re-connecting the display cables.

I blew the backlight circuit on the motherboard.

I had the battery connected when plugging in the display cables.

Power was not on so it did not occur to me that it would be a problem.

Expensive mistake.

The problem that lures you into this trap is that you need to position the battery to align with the battery connector when re-installing the battery.

To make sure it is aligned properly, the natural thing to do is to plug in the battery connector.

But then you can forget that the battery is connected when you re-attach the display cables.

If I were to do this procedure again, I would not even disconnect the display at all. It is not necessary when replacing the battery.

richlove - Reply

Same thing happened to me. display now dead. had it done at the local gadget /phone repair store but they couldn’t fix it.

Were you able to fix yours?

Philip Storey -

Anybody have a solution to the front facing camera assembly not working? Changed out my buddies battery and now the front camera and ear speaker don't work.

Wade - Reply

My iPhone 6s+ was stuck in a restart loop. I tried EVERYTHING! Did you try… YES! I tried it. The Apple store near me didn’t have an appointment available for 6 days. I recently had them replace the battery since they admitted to screwing everyone’s phone up and it had been randomly restarting at all different times. This morning I tried to do an iTunes factory reset and still just rebooted when done. I followed these steps up to #20. Then I reassembled (losing the 30mm screw for the logic board) and fired it up. She was a little groggy at first but runs great now!

tseantownsend - Reply

Mine doesn’t switch on at all - will they still help me with my iPhone even if I tried to fix it myself?

Because I know they like to do things like that haha

Klaud Kveda -

I done this with mine but could not get strips out so just forced the battery out - without disconnecting LCD and then the phone would not switch on, so I gave up with it.

Since then I tried to do it again and just checked the connections with the battery and seems to of turned on so I was happy and put it on charge only for it to turn off again after around 5 mins and it wont switch back on now.

Let me know if there is anything I could do to fix this.

Klaud Kveda - Reply

I could not believe it. I DID. This guide was helpful including some comments. Thank you!

Alberto Vega - Reply

I accidentally used the tweezer in step 14 after removing the battery connector bracket and I saw some sparks. Did it fry my batter connector?

Kim Leabres - Reply

Not sure why I had to take the front off completely [iPhone 6s plus]. Also, replacing the adhesive strips was a disaster as mine looked nothing like what was in the photos. Scotch double sided to the rescue. Hope it doesn’t melt or something [fist bump myself explosion emoji]

Tom Lynham - Reply

this is ridiculous, just use your brain and make a phone w an ejectable battery… a duh.

HEMP IS NOT POT - Reply

battery addhensive is too sticky. would be nice to add iopener in the toolkit. i tried to force the battery out without heat it. battery caught fire. luckily the phone still works after clean the mess. i would suggest to get an iopener if you want to replace battery.

yuan wei - Reply

Hello! Is to possible to change the battery while the screen is broken? I dont want to change the screen just the battery! :)

Otto linden - Reply

@otto_linden Totally possible, although getting a broken screen off can be troublesome. If it’s badly broken, the stress of removing it can make it worse, so it may go back together “more broken” than when you started. All other things being equal, I’d probably suggest waiting until you can do both at once. But, your call! Good luck.

Jeff Suovanen -

just did my new battery tonight and found the front display connectors really hard to remove.

Put everything back but now my ear speaker isnt working.

Tried hard reset and removing all tabs and replacing but it’s still not working :(

Everything else works fine. So disappointed will now have to go to apple for a more expensive repair than a simple battery :(

John Sherrit - Reply

Just wanted to add that when I added the new battery the phone got exteremely hot so I have removed the “new” battery and put the old one back in and temps are normal again,

Good to see there is a one year warranty as this battery is going back.

John Sherrit - Reply

Hi John! Our Support team is here to assist if you’d like to inquire about your warranty. Please feel free to reach out via help.ifixit.com and they’ll look into this trouble with you.

Kadan Sharpe -

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