Introduction

Use this guide to bring life back to your iPhone 6s Plus with a new battery. For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery: Drain it below 10%, then charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

This guide instructs you to detach the front panel assembly; this is intended to prevent damage to the display cables. If you feel comfortable supporting the display carefully while peeling the battery out of the iPhone, you can skip the display removal and go directly to the battery removal steps.

You can also use this guide to replace the battery connector bracket.

Video Overview

Image 1/1: Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.4 mm Pentalobe screws on either side of the Lightning port.

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Image 1/1: Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.
  • Opening the display on the 6s Plus separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.

  • Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.

take out screws first!!

Yoav Karmon - Reply

Image 1/2: Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case. Image 2/2: Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.
  • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

  • Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

I had a shattered front glass panel so I could not get the suction cup to seal properly. I tried a couple of different ways to get good suction but to no avail. I eventually used a Stanley knife to pry up the corner so I could get the spudger into the opening.

John Architzel - Reply

A really high quality packing tape over the entire screen will usually be enough to use the suction cup on a shattered screen.

djwooten -

Image 1/3: While still maintaining pressure on the suction cup, insert the flat tip of a spudger into the gap, directly above the headphone jack. Image 2/3: While still maintaining pressure on the suction cup, insert the flat tip of a spudger into the gap, directly above the headphone jack. Image 3/3: While still maintaining pressure on the suction cup, insert the flat tip of a spudger into the gap, directly above the headphone jack.
  • The safest place to pry from is the notch in the front panel above the headphone jack.

  • While still maintaining pressure on the suction cup, insert the flat tip of a spudger into the gap, directly above the headphone jack.

This was by far the hardest part of the repair for me. Getting leverage while finding a way to prod with a spudger is a challenge in coordination. I used a second spudger with point holding the phone down by the headphone jack, with the other end of the spudger anchored to my desk.

drpotter - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel and the rear case.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • While firmly pulling up on the suction cup, slide the edge of the spudger under the bottom left corner of the display.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Slide the tip of the spudger up the left side of the phone, between the front panel and the rear case.

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Image 1/2: Slide the spudger up the right side. Image 2/2: Slide the spudger up the right side.
  • Insert the flat tip of the spudger under the right edge of the display.

  • Slide the spudger up the right side.

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Image 1/2: Do '''''not''''' remove the display completely, or you will damage the data cables connecting the display near the top edge of the iPhone. Image 2/2: Do '''''not''''' remove the display completely, or you will damage the data cables connecting the display near the top edge of the iPhone.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to hold down the rear case while pulling up the suction cup to open the phone.

    • Do not remove the display completely, or you will damage the data cables connecting the display near the top edge of the iPhone.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the display.

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Image 1/3: Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone. Image 2/3: Don't open the display more than 90º—it is still connected to the top of the phone by the display, digitizer, and front camera cables which can tear easily. Image 3/3: Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
  • Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Don't open the display more than 90º—it is still connected to the top of the phone by the display, digitizer, and front camera cables which can tear easily.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to support the display.

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Image 1/1: One 2.9 mm screw
  • Remove the following Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket to the logic board:

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 2.3 mm screw

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the battery connector bracket.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Use the pointed tip of the spudger to disconnect the battery connector from the logic board.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Bend the connector back to ensure it doesn't make contact and power the iPhone on while you're working on it.

See my comment at the end of the procedure. If you work carefully, you need not remove the logic board and can skip ahead to step 38 after completing this step (disconnecting battery).

Mark Cousins - Reply

Image 1/1: Three 1.3 mm screws
  • Remove the following Phillips screws:

    • Three 1.3 mm screws

    • One 1.6 mm screw

    • One 3.0 mm screw

      • During reassembly, it's critical to place this 3.0 mm screw in the top-right corner of the bracket. Placing it anywhere else may damage the logic board.

I really don't see value in removing screen use box and rubber band keep at 90 degrees.

John Parker - Reply

I leave screen on as well for this. - Tho I prefer a 45 degree lean.

Thor -

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the display cable bracket.

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Image 1/2: Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector. Image 2/2: Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.
  • Be careful to only pry up on the connector itself and not the socket on the logic board.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

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Image 1/2: When reconnecting the digitizer cable, '''do not press the center of the connector'''. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage. Image 2/2: When reconnecting the digitizer cable, '''do not press the center of the connector'''. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

  • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the display data cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

How much is this to replace?

Alistair knight - Reply

And where could I buy from?

Alistair knight - Reply

Image 1/2: During reassembly, pause here if you wish to [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+Display+Adhesive+Replacement/93983|replace the adhesive around the edges of the display|new_window=true]. Image 2/2: During reassembly, pause here if you wish to [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+Display+Adhesive+Replacement/93983|replace the adhesive around the edges of the display|new_window=true].

You need to clarify where exactly these "adhesive strips around the display" are, what they look like, and where to purchase new ones from.

Anthony - Reply

You can see what they look like in this blog post. Hopefully we'll have replacement adhesive strips available in the future, but right now I don't know of any suppliers. Your phone will work fine without replacing the adhesive—if I had to guess, I'd say it's there as a little extra insurance against display wobble now that 3D Touch has users pushing harder on their phones.

Jeff Suovanen -

We now have a detailed guide for replacing the adhesive strips, and we should have them in stock soon. The guide has been updated to reflect this.

Jeff Suovanen -

Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Peel back the tips of the three battery adhesive strips along the bottom edge of the battery.

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Image 1/1: Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.
  • Gather the ends of all three adhesive strips in your hand.

  • Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

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Image 1/3: To avoid tearing the adhesive strip, be careful not to pull against the battery or lower components. Image 2/3: Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strips as they slip out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strips at a 60º angle or less. Image 3/3: The strips will stretch to ''many'' times their original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strips near the battery if necessary.
  • Gently pull the battery adhesive tabs away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

    • To avoid tearing the adhesive strip, be careful not to pull against the battery or lower components.

    • Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strips as they slip out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strips at a 60º angle or less.

    • The strips will stretch to many times their original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strips near the battery if necessary.

  • Hold down the battery with one hand as you pull, or the elastic strips may fling the battery from the phone once they're separated from the rear case.

Use a set of curved tweasers to pull each strip clear of the bottom left corner of the battery. Then the strips will pull out alongside the battery and the frame almost effortlessly. Do this for each strip and your battery should almost fall out.

Dustin DeShaney - Reply

I found it better to pull one strip at a time

John Parker - Reply

Image 1/2: [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|Prepare an iOpener|new_window=true] and apply it to the back of the rear case, directly over the battery. Alternatively, you can apply heat using a heat gun or  hair dryer. Image 2/2: After about a minute, flip the phone over and use a plastic card to break up any remaining adhesive behind the battery.
  • If you successfully removed all three adhesive strips, move on to the next step. Otherwise, you will need to pry the battery from the rear case.

  • Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the back of the rear case, directly over the battery. Alternatively, you can apply heat using a heat gun or hair dryer.

  • After about a minute, flip the phone over and use a plastic card to break up any remaining adhesive behind the battery.

    • Do not insert your card in the area between the volume down (-) button and the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the volume control cable lying underneath.

    • Do not pry against the logic board or you may damage the phone.

    • Keep the card as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals or catch fire. Do not use any sharp tools to pry at the battery.

  • Alternatively, a piece of dental floss may be used to separate the battery from the rear case. A stronger alternative to dental floss is an unwound guitar string, such as a 0.009 E string from a 12-string set.

  • Thread the floss or string behind the upper battery corners, bring the ends together, wrap them around a folded cloth, and pull evenly.

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Image 1/1: When installing the battery, refer to [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+Battery+Adhesive+Strips+Replacement/56465|this guide] to replace your battery's adhesive strips.
  • Remove the battery.

  • When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips.

  • Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery: Drain battery below 10%, then charge uninterrupted to 100%.

82 other people completed this guide.

Evan Noronha

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13 Comments

Most common on IPhone 6s/6 repair jobs is this battery replacement. Great tutorial!

Raymond Amansec - Reply

so few comments on this one?!

has any/many done this without the adhesive strips.. and was it ok?

sarah - Reply

If you mean the battery adhesive strips, sure—you can put a piece of double-sided tape down the back of the battery, and it probably won't move anywhere. There's not much room for the battery to move anyway. Use the adhesive strips if you want to do it right—but, if you're in a bind and you just need the phone working, you can skip the strips. And you can always open the phone back up and add the adhesive strips later.

If you mean the adhesive gasket around the display, the answer is pretty much the same—It's better to have it, but it doesn't hurt anything to put the phone back together without it.

Jeff Suovanen -

by far the easiest repair I've done. only 3 screws! really dont think the cables need to be disconneted. i just used a shoe lace to gently hold up the screen. sticky strips came out fine. happy. thanks.

sarah - Reply

Where can one buy the adhesive gasket for the case

Sandeep singh - Reply

Is the battery OEM apple one

Sandeep singh - Reply

i want to aperfect technecian give me your advise

dawit ican✔ - Reply

Where can I buy de adhesive that is around the display? Can I use B7000 glue?

Ezequiel Braunstein - Reply

Reassembly of the display to the chassis was a terrible ordeal until I realized that the front-facing camera connector and sensor cable connector cables had changed position in the 3-cable stack. This is possible--try it yourself:

Follow the two disconnected cables back to the display.

Swap them by tucking the smaller connector cable UNDER the bigger connector cable. You can do it because the angle that they exit the display lets them lie either way, on top of the other or under it.

You'll know immediately when trying to re-attach the connectors because the big connector needs to be the second (middle) one. Otherwise the cables can be hooked up with a lot of fiddle but they won't fold to fit under the cover..

Ned Bedinger - Reply

The battery adhesive -- my case used to get hot until i changed the batt. Two-sided tape (like carpet tape) might not let heat shed betweenor or through the strips. Using two-side non-specifc tape in wide stripsfrom a roll? It makes me wonder about heat-managing properties of official batt tape.

Ned Bedinger - Reply

The old battery blew up on me while replacing, because the battery adhesive strips tore. I didn't have a plastic card to unstick the battery, so I had to bend it. That's why it blew up, so be careful guys, because I absolutely didn't expect that. There was lots of smoke and I burned myself a little bit.

I thought my phone will die after that, but I connected new battery and everything works fine.

Roman Visente - Reply

may i change 6s plus battery with 6 plus?

Charles Cho - Reply

Wow! That was awesome. It's amazing how easy things can be when they are designed to be replaced! One note though, when I was draining my new battery, at below 10% it would not play sound. I could not play music, or hear phone calls, I could however be heard. After having opened my phone so recently I was worried a connection had come loose or been missed entirely. Once charged to 100% everything behaved as expected. I am not sure if that is normal or not. I could totally understand restricting power use at those levels, but does it? I didn't "enter power save" not knowingly at least.

Michael Cornforth - Reply

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