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iPhone 8 Taptic Engine Replacement

Written By: Arthur Shi (and 2 other contributors)
  • Comments: 99
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  • Completions: 15

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

27

Time Required

40 minutes - 1 hour

Sections

6

Flags

0

Introduction

The Taptic Engine produces your iPhone's vibration and haptic feedback functions. Use this guide to remove and/or replace the Taptic Engine in an iPhone 8.

Note: This guide instructs you to fully detach and remove the display assembly; this is intended to make the phone easier to work with and to prevent accidental damage to the display cables. If you feel comfortable removing the Taptic Engine while keeping the display cables attached, you can skip the steps for disconnecting the display.

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.5 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Edit

  2. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the phone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    Edit

  3. Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button. Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    Edit

  4. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Insert an opening pick into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    Edit

  5. Slide the opening pick up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place. Stop near the top left corner of the display. Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

    • Slide the opening pick up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Stop near the top left corner of the display.

    • Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

    Edit

  6. Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

    • Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.

    • Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

    Edit

  7. Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display. Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.

    • Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.

    • Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.

    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

    Edit

  8. Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive. Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive. Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

    • Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

    Edit

  9. Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case. Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

    • Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

    Edit

  11. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board. Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    Edit

  12. Remove four Phillips screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths: Two 1.3 mm screws
    Tool used on this step:
    Magnetic Project Mat
    $19.99

    • Remove four Phillips screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • Two 2.8 mm screws

    • Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Edit

  13. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector out of its socket in the logic board. Bend the battery connector cable slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector out of its socket in the logic board.

    • Bend the battery connector cable slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

    Edit

  14. Use the point of a spudger to pry the lower display connector out of its socket. To re-attach press connectors like this one, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the lower display connector out of its socket.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    Edit

  15. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the second lower display cable. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the second lower display cable.

    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the second lower display cable.

    Edit

  16. Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector. Remove the bracket.

    • Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Edit

  17. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    Edit

  18. Remove the display assembly.
    Edit

  19. Remove the three screws securing the bracket next to the Taptic Engine:

    • Remove the three screws securing the bracket next to the Taptic Engine:

    • One 1.3 mm Y000 screw

    • One 2.7 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.9 mm Phillips screw

    Edit

  20. Remove the bracket.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Edit

  21. Gently slide an opening pick between the antenna flex cable and the top of the speaker. This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered in place. If necessary, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This will make it easier to separate the flex cable safely. This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered in place. If necessary, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This will make it easier to separate the flex cable safely.

    • Gently slide an opening pick between the antenna flex cable and the top of the speaker.

    • This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered in place. If necessary, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This will make it easier to separate the flex cable safely.

    Edit

  22. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the diversity antenna flex cable from the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the diversity antenna flex cable from the logic board.

    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the diversity antenna flex cable from the logic board.

    Edit

  23. Slide an opening pick under the antenna flex cable to hold the socket down. Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable from its socket, using the opening pick to hold the socket down. Reconnecting this cable can be tricky. Make it easier by using your tweezers to hold the flex cable so the connector aligns with its socket. Then, gently press straight down on the connector with the flat of your spudger until it clicks into place.

    • Slide an opening pick under the antenna flex cable to hold the socket down.

    • Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable from its socket, using the opening pick to hold the socket down.

    • Reconnecting this cable can be tricky. Make it easier by using your tweezers to hold the flex cable so the connector aligns with its socket. Then, gently press straight down on the connector with the flat of your spudger until it clicks into place.

    Edit

  24. Remove the Wi-Fi diversity antenna.

    • Remove the Wi-Fi diversity antenna.

    Edit

  25. Remove the two screws securing the Taptic Engine:
    Tool used on this step:
    Standoff Screwdriver for iPhones
    $5.49

    • Remove the two screws securing the Taptic Engine:

    • One 2.1 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.1 mm standoff screw

    • Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    Edit

  26. Use the point of your spudger to pry the antenna cable socket up and away from the connector below it. Use the point of your spudger to pry the antenna cable socket up and away from the connector below it.

    • Use the point of your spudger to pry the antenna cable socket up and away from the connector below it.

    Edit

  27. Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable. Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable.

    • Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable.

    Edit

  28. Remove the Taptic Engine.

    • Remove the Taptic Engine.

    Edit
Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. Don't forget to reapply the display adhesive before reinstalling the display.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our iPhone 8 Answers community for troubleshooting help.

15 other people completed this guide.

Author

with 2 other contributors

Arthur Shi

Member since: 01/03/2018

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2 Comments

Is the iPhone 8 Taptic Engine interchangeable with the iPhone 8+ Taptic Engine. So that you can put the one from the Plus model into the regular one.

Peter Horvat - Reply

I would like to add that you’ll need a special tool to read and copy the serial number to the new Taptic Engine so that it will provide proper feedback.

Jesse Hooton - Reply

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