Jesse Hooton

I have a customer that dropped off a studio because it had died. She used it the night before and went to use it the next...

I have this used Dell desktop I’m trying to use but it’s protected by a BIOS or HDD password. Is there any way I can reset...

I have a customer with some eTalk flip phone from verizon and it is currently having an issue where it automatically...

I typically don’t like to source parts from eBay as they’re not always sold as advertised but anyways there could be a chance it’s defective or that the liquid damage is a bit deeper than just the screen. If the old screen works, can you test that one as well?

Error 4013 does typically point to a bad NAND if I’m not mistaken. Before you separate the layers, are you able to at least check the power and data lines that go to and from the NAND to make sure they aren’t shorted?

They sound correct, something most likely shorted out on the board as excess heat is a sign of a short circuit. You might have luck mailing it in to iPad Rehab here in the US and have them take a look at it. If they can’t fix it, they should be able to recover data. Or find someone around you that specializes in board level repair.

OLED displays are very difficult to do DIY glass only repairs on. At this point, you’ll need to order a whole screen assembly.

Did you use a premium/OEM charge port? The X and above are picky when it comes to aftermarket ports although the most common issue I see is the phone will bootloop if you use anything other than an OEM port. And the port is connected properly to the board correct?

When you power off your device it does require you to type in the passcode before it can activate touchID. But there is a chance you could’ve damaged the flex cable that connects to the home button and a replacement screen should fix that.

Manufacturers love to hide screws under rubber feet. Try prying that rubber base off.

Are you getting any kind of warning message when trying to charge the device? Samsung put a temperature sensor on the wireless charging coil and if the sensor isn’t working or not communicating with the device it will give a false temp reading and the device will think it’s too low to charge. There are contact pins at the top. Make sure they aren’t damaged or missing and make sure the screws in that area are in place.

If you could post pictures of the problem that would be helpful. But by the sounds of it, the screen needs replacement in order to fix those lines. As far as the cause of them I’m not sure. Is there any separation or gaps around the edge of the device? That could indicate a swollen battery which can cause damage to the display, resulting in these lines.

A lot of shops will use ZXW to at least view the board and see where everything connects. As far as schematics you’ll have to find those online.

Can the TouchID keyboard be purchased separately if the original seems to fail? I’m looking on Apple’s website and it doesn’t appear to be available, at least for the time being.

I would like to add that you’ll need a special tool to read and copy the serial number to the new Taptic Engine so that it will provide proper feedback.