Introduction

Use this guide if your new display assembly comes with the front-facing camera, earpiece speaker, and LCD shield plate already installed. You'll simply remove the old display assembly and transfer the home/Touch ID sensor to the new display assembly.

If your replacement display does not include those components, follow this more in-depth guide instead.

In both cases, the original home/Touch ID sensor must be transferred onto the new display in order for it to function.

Video Overview

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Take extra care not to expose your iPhone to liquid damage after completing your repair.

  • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.

pargoff - Reply

The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.

Jeff Suovanen -

@jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.

Ben Meinhart - Reply

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
  • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

  • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

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Apply a suction cup to the lower half  of the front panel, just above the home button. Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
  • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

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Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.
  • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

  • While pulling up on the suction cup, twist the spudger to widen the opening between the screen and rear case.

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Insert the flat end of the spudger between the front panel and the rear case at the lower left edge of the iPhone. Slide the spudger up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place. Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.
  • Insert the flat end of the spudger between the front panel and the rear case at the lower left edge of the iPhone.

  • Slide the spudger up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

  • Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

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Remove the spudger from the left side of the phone and insert the flat end into the bottom right corner. Slide the spudger up the right edge of the phone to the top corner, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.
  • Remove the spudger from the left side of the phone and insert the flat end into the bottom right corner.

  • Slide the spudger up the right edge of the phone to the top corner, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

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Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone. Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are delicate ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.
  • Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

    • Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are delicate ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

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Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel. Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
  • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

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Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive. Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.
  • Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

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Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
  • Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

  • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

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Remove the following four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board:
  • Remove the following four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.6 mm screw

Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.

u204863 - Reply

Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.

Jeff Suovanen -

The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?

shannon caldwell - Reply

At first I think I was being too careful and was getting no where. I got better results by pressing down on the screwdriver with more pressure while turning and those little screws came right out.

Loretta - Reply

Remove the lower display cable bracket. Remove the lower display cable bracket.
  • Remove the lower display cable bracket.

I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

chris west - Reply

If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.

Scott Havard - Reply

Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone.
  • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

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Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board. To re-attach press connectors, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage. To re-attach press connectors, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

  • To re-attach press connectors, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

The note about the danger of pressing on the connector incorrectly is very legitimate. Though I find it more practical to use a wide (1.5 cm) case opener tool to press it down all at once. Minimizes risk of bending the connector.

Talon - Reply

Remove the three tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector: One 1.3 mm screw Two 1.0 mm screws
  • Remove the three tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • Two 1.0 mm screws

  • Remove the bracket.

Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.

chris west - Reply

Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board. This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.
  • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

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Remove the display assembly.

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Remove the four Y000 screws securing the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor:
  • Remove the four Y000 screws securing the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor:

    • One 1.1 mm screw

    • Three 1.3 mm screws

Why is the screw over top of the home button so difficult to get out… has anyone else experienced this..? This is twice now I've struggled to get that screw

Brandon - Reply

Remove the bracket that secures the home/Touch ID sensor.
  • Remove the bracket that secures the home/Touch ID sensor.

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Pry under the left edge of the home button cable connector to disconnect it from its socket. If the entire connector begins to flip up without separating, press down on the cable at the top edge of the connector with the flat of your spudger, while simultaneously prying up the left edge of the connector. Be very careful not to damage the cable or connector, or you will permanently disable the sensor.
  • Pry under the left edge of the home button cable connector to disconnect it from its socket.

    • If the entire connector begins to flip up without separating, press down on the cable at the top edge of the connector with the flat of your spudger, while simultaneously prying up the left edge of the connector. Be very careful not to damage the cable or connector, or you will permanently disable the sensor.

Well, I just damaged the home button connector in step 31. It is completely off the cable. What now? Can I buy this home button?

Loretta - Reply

Carefully pry up the underlying connector and move it out of the way of the home/Touch ID cable. It's very easy to damage your iPhone during this step. Work slowly and take care where you pry with your tool. If you damage the Touch ID hardware, it can only be replaced by Apple.
  • Carefully pry up the underlying connector and move it out of the way of the home/Touch ID cable.

    • It's very easy to damage your iPhone during this step. Work slowly and take care where you pry with your tool. If you damage the Touch ID hardware, it can only be replaced by Apple.

    • If the connector doesn't pry up easily, use a hair dryer or iOpener to heat and soften the adhesive securing the connector, and then try again.

    • Don't try to detach the connector completely—simply flip it up slightly so that the underlying home/Touch ID sensor cable can be removed.

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Heating the area around the home/Touch ID sensor will help soften the adhesive holding its delicate cable in place, making it easier to remove safely.
  • Heating the area around the home/Touch ID sensor will help soften the adhesive holding its delicate cable in place, making it easier to remove safely.

  • Flip the display assembly over. Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the display for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

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Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel. Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel. Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel.
  • Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel.

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Remove the home/Touch ID sensor assembly.
  • Remove the home/Touch ID sensor assembly.

True to this picture, the home button can only be removed (and put back in place) through the front of the LCD assembly.

Talon - Reply

Very good comment Talon. That was the first thing I was looking for here. There should be a bullet point in step 24 - Carefully remove home button from front of display being careful not to damage cable.

Tracey - Reply

Had an issue when putting the screen back on, the side where the cables attach would not sit flush. At first I thought the cables were pushing the screen up. Turned out to be the battery cable shield was just a fraction too far down toward home button. After loosening screws, nudging it up slightly and screwing back in, the screen sat flush as it should. In case anyone else has same issue.

jbarry - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

98 other people completed this guide.

Paige Reisman

Member since: 04/07/2014

8,771 Reputation

43 Guides authored

29 Comments

Is there any possibility to be sure the device is watertight after replacing the display assembly?

Timo Oppermann - Reply

As far as I can tell there is no possible way to get it to the factory seal at this current time. Now that don't mean later on they make an adhesive we can put on the lips of the frame to make a seal like from factory.

Chris Adkins -

What happened to the FaceTime camera, phone mic, ambient light sensor, and other things found in the top of previous phones

Jack Quimby - Reply

there still there at the top of the device. Once you take the plate off the back of the screen they basically fall off the screen.

Chris Adkins -

This guide is not to the IFIXIT standard, the speaker/ambient light sensor assembly etc. cable is sensitive to damage and needs to be heated prior to removal, this is setting people up for failure.

stevep526 -

Removing those components isn't part of this guide.

Jeff Suovanen -

Can someone clarify what this is about? I will be replacing my screen once the components arrive and would like some clarification. Stevep526 believes that there will be damage caused to the speaker/ambient light sensor assy by following the procedure, and a few other comments are saying they are having this same issue.

Jake Flippin -

@jacobcecilflip People are confused because they're trying to use this guide for more than it was intended. If you read the introduction, you'll note that this guide assumes you're installing a "complete" a.k.a. "full assembly" replacement display with a new front-facing camera assembly, speaker, and LCD shield plate already installed. If you buy a bare-bones display instead, you're going to have to remove those components from your old display and transfer them to your new display before installing it, and we don't have instructions for that quite yet. (But we will, eventually.)

Jeff Suovanen -

Only the glass is broken on my screen. I don't need a new digitizer. Is there a way to just replace the glass? Seems like that would be much cheaper. Thanks!

Justin Brockbank - Reply

Unfortunately, by the nature of the technology, cracked glass likely means your digitizer is out of commission (does touch still register on the cracked screen?). Below that is the LCD, and that might not be broken (if the image is fine, then the LCD is likely fine). The problem is that these components are VERY VERY difficult to separate. This makes the individual replacements a nightmare. I hate to say anything is impossible, but separating these components will feel impossible without expensive tools and extensive knowledge. It will also likely end in a mess of broken components. When there is a will, there is a way. But the separation project will demand a lot of will.

Scott Havard -

Our store is having trouble with the earpiece speaker working after screen repair on just the 7 Plus, not with the 7. We have tried different techniques and still get figure what we are doing wrong. Has anyone else had this problem and know the solution?

Joe Cox - Reply

My earpiece speaker also won't work with new screen... this is frustrating. Any solution

Ben -

There are some connections for the earpiece speaker that can be a little tricky to get properly connected during reassembly. If you look at the third photo in step 22 of the iPhone 7 Plus teardown you can see four copper pads on the cable, and four protruding copper connections on the speaker. For starters, make sure that these are all clean. When reassembling, make sure that the metal pads on the cable firmly touch the metal pins on the speaker. These are actually electrical connections, and are a little tougher to seat properly because they don't snap in like press or ZIF connectors. If the metal is all lined up and pressed against each other, then electricity should be flowing and sound should result! If the earpiece speaker was not removed and this guide was followed as is, it is most likely an issue with the connectors in step 19 of this guide.

Scott Havard -

why do you need to change the touch ID sensor? if your replacement screen comes with a touch ID, do you still need to swap it?

kjding - Reply

For security reasons, each iPhone's Touch ID sensor is uniquely paired to the logic board at the factory. If you replace your screen without transferring over your original home button, you will lose Touch ID functionality. If your replacement screen came with a replacement home button anyway, take it off and carefully replace it with your original home button.

Jeff Suovanen -

For the 7, the home button also must detect a fingerprint in order for the home button functionality to work. Because the security feature turns off the TouchID function, the iPhone stops trying to detect a fingerprint and makes the home button not work at all. You want to keep the original home button and be careful not to rip the cable because for this particular generation of iPhone, there is no replacing the home button.

Gunitz427 -

Can i use iSclack on 6 step?

Val - Reply

Absolutely. The iSclack isn't strong enough to fully separate the display without first cutting the adhesive, but you can certainly use it to create that initial gap under the display so you can fit a tool underneath.

Jeff Suovanen -

I changed my display that came with no earpiece speaker, it doesn't work anymore after i switched, i tried pressing it firmly on the 4 copper things still nothing, another problem i got is my phone doesn't make call neither receives them, it restarts! HELP

Kevin Subhash - Reply

I am curious as to why you chose to use the suction cup to lift the screen. In my experience, as long as you are careful, the iSesamo or Jimmy opening tools are safer and more reliable. The suction cup is more likely to slip and rip the digitizer and lcd cables.

Gunitz427 - Reply

The suction cup isn't meant to forcibly separate the screen; the display adhesive is too strong for that anyway. The suction cup should be used only to create enough of a gap to slip your tool in and start cutting the adhesive. Once the adhesive is cut, you can lift the display using the suction cup as a handle, but it shouldn't require any force. If you try to force your way in with an iSesamo it'll probably still work, but you're much more likely to leave visible damage.

Jeff Suovanen -

I am having the same issue as Kevin Subhash, the repair attempt I did, the phone will restart when making or receiving a call. It did this with the replaced screen and now with the cracked screen after I put it back on to try and get the phone back in working order.

Eddie - Reply

Can someome please tell me the name and size of screwdrivers needed to take apart the iPhone 7 plus? After thoroughly researching this topic I was under the impression that I needed a 0.6 mm why TriPoint or Tri Wing screwdriver I ordered it and it does not fit for the very first step. After looking further on steps and pictures it shows the screwdrivers being different sizes meaning I would need different size screwdrivers correct? I have a ton of screwdrivers however this is the first iPhone 7 I have taken apart. So I was trying to make sure I had all the correct size of screwdrivers extremely frustrated because I have already ordered what I thought I needed and it's working? Any help would be greatly appreciated

chris west - Reply

The tools needed are listed at the top of this guide—you need a P2 pentalobe driver to remove the first two screws and open the iPhone. For the tri-point screws you need a Y000 driver (just one size). For additional repairs beyond the scope of this guide, you may also need a single small Phillips/JIS driver (00 or 000 should work) and either a small flat-head or a standoff driver bit. Not all driver types/sizes are standardized, so different tool manufacturers may call them something else. If you plan on doing any other electronics repair, save yourself the headache of tracking down individual drivers and just get a 64-bit kit or something similar. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

I replaced an iPhone 7 plus screen and even with the old screen back on I get just a light no display

Matt Miller - Reply

hallo

after i changed my display the iphone is so slow no any tone no any vibertaion ….. and it will take 4 min to turn on ……

please help !!

Elektro Kochen - Reply

Same for me, iPhone seems to work fine apart from it being Extremely slow to start and respond to screen input on all ”home” screens…..inside the apps it works fine..ang suggestions?

Erik Engström -

I would double check all your screw lengths. I had a customer bring in a disassembled phone with all the screws stuck to the speaker. I’m using a digital caliper to try and find the appropriate screws based off of this guide and none of them are matching up. I have no 1.3mm screws and several much longer screws that don’t seem to be on the guide at all.

comprensoldotna - Reply

The screw lengths here are accurate, but only to the nearest 0.1 mm. You can’t do much better than that because the screw manufacturing tolerances aren’t that tight; with an accurate digital caliper, you can pull the same screw from several phones and get slightly different measurements on each one. I’ve done what you’re doing (reassembled a phone from a mixed pile of screws) and it’s definitely not easy! You can use these measurements as a guide, but you also have to use a light touch and be willing to back out and try another screw if the one you’re installing doesn’t quite seem to fit. Also, remember that your customer may have already installed some screws in the wrong place and left you with others that don't belong anywhere in this guide. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

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