Use this guide to bring life back to your iPhone 7 with a new battery.

This guide instructs you to completely detach the display assembly; this is intended to prevent damage to the display cables. If you feel comfortable removing the battery without putting undue strain on the display cables, you can skip the steps for disconnecting the display.

For optimal performance after completing the guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Drain it below 10%, then charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

Video Overview

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase - Reply

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing - Reply

  2. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    ¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?

    joscarlos91 - Reply

    It is a process. I heated the lower area of the phone with a hair dryer on and off (1min each) about 3-4 times before I was able to get the provided tool in.

    Dan - Reply

    I suggest using a hairdryer. I used the iOpener for maybe 30 mins to no avail. However, when I used the hairdryer the screen came of much quicker.

    Michael - Reply

    • Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button.

      • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    The glass is completely cracked and the suction cup doesn't work because it gets air in between. any tip?

    Display is glued and doesn't come off.

    support - Reply

    A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)

    Mimic44444 - Reply

    Last comment works well. Thank you !

    Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.

    Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.

    Arni Benediktsson - Reply

    • Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

      • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

    This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.

    jessica harlow - Reply

    I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.

    mcr4u2 -

    Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain

    Jordon Johnson - Reply

    Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful

    Jordon Johnson - Reply

    This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/

    Chris Gallego - Reply

    Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.

    Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.

    amberron - Reply

    I second Jessica’s January 8 comment.  I just finished a battery replacement on my iPhone 7 and this step was the most nerve-wracking part.  I ended up using a sharper (but not razor-sharp) metal object to get this done with confidence (tried the spudger and guitar pick but not thin enough).  The tool I used was the exact duplicate of what iFixIt calls “iSesamo Opening Tool” in their tool selection.  I did the heat up with a hair dryer (after attempts with an iOpener hot pad) and the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).  I actually used the metal tool for most of the perimeter as well, just don’t go deep (you don’t need to).  Notes: my display was intact, and I was able to pull up fairly hard with a glass screen protector still on it.

    Ted - Reply

    This is frustrating. I heated the lower edge with a hair dryer for 1 min on high about 3-4 times. In between each heat cycle, I rocked the suction cup back and forth. I was eventually able to create significant space for the provided tool. This takes a lot of patience. Once the space was created, it was very easy to remove the screen.

    Dan - Reply

    use a fingernail, then the blue tool, then the spudger

    Therese Peffer - Reply

    • Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone.

    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.

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    • Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch.

    • Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.

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    • Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device.

    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    • Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.

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    • Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

    • Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

    do not pull up pull sideways it will brake

    Riley Patterson - Reply

    Made this mistake

    rachael.grime - Reply

    • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

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    • Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place.

    • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.

    Add Comment

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    • Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

      • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    I just broke the cable to the battery!

    No Bama - Reply

    same dude im such a freak lol omg haha

    Aiden Polaski - Reply

    Are there replacements ribbons?

    Blax Bently - Reply

    Has anyone else noticed very small squares of rubber with a circle cut through it (I think they fall off into the phone when dismantling)?

    I just replaced my screen and worked out that these are actually a wee pocket that slips over the pentalobe screw holes on the replacement screen. I’m not sure if it’s an additional water resisting mechanism or if it’s to add additional traction for the screws

    richarddillon - Reply

    Thanks, I was wondering where those were from!

    Albert -

    • Remove four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower connector bracket, of the following lengths:

      • Three 1.2 mm screws

      • One 2.4 mm screw

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

    Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve - Reply

    Just FYI, if you have an iFixit set with the PH000 you can use that bit to remove the Y000 if you're in a bind.

    Colton Neifert - Reply

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst - Reply

    dang im such a freak i messed my i phone device up badly

    Aiden Polaski - Reply

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright - Reply

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader - Reply

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 - Reply

    for me a ph0 worked.

    Filipe Silva - Reply

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos - Reply

    • Remove the lower connector bracket.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin - Reply

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno - Reply

    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

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    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

    • To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

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    • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva - Reply

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h - Reply

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson - Reply

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer - Reply

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro - Reply

    • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

    Add Comment

  4. When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley - Reply

    • Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case.

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    • Remove the vent.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine connector from its socket on the logic board.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the three 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine to the rear case.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the Taptic Engine.

    Add Comment

    • Use a pair of tweezers with blunt tips to peel back one of the adhesive strips on the lower edge of the battery.

    Add Comment

    • Use a pair of tweezers with blunt tips to peel back the other adhesive strip on the lower edge of the battery.

    Add Comment

    • If this is your first time removing an iPhone battery adhesive strip, refer to the video in the following step before beginning.

    • Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

    • Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

    • Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.

      • The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.

    My adhesive strips tore almost immediately. I ended up using an old membership card as a tool to pry the battery out. I must admit, I did deform the battery - seemed almost unavoidable.

    Dan - Reply

    • Repeat the previous step for the second strip.

      • Hold down the battery as you remove the second strip, or the strip may fling the battery when it separates from the case.

    • If you removed both adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.

      • Otherwise, if either of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, continue with the next step below.

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    • If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery. It should be slightly too warm to touch comfortably.

    • Overheating the iPhone may ignite the battery.

    • Flip the phone over and use a plastic card to break up any remaining adhesive behind the battery.

      • Do not insert your card in the area between the volume down (-) button and the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the volume control cable lying underneath.

      • Do not pry against the logic board or you may damage the phone.

    • Keep the card as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals or catch fire. Do not use any sharp tools to pry at the battery.

    • Alternatively, a piece of dental floss may be used to separate the battery from the rear case. A stronger alternative to dental floss is an unwound guitar string, such as a 0.009 E string from a 12-string set.

    • Thread the floss or string behind the upper battery corners, bring the ends together, wrap them around a folded cloth, and pull evenly.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the battery from the rear case.

    • If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove the sleeve before installation by pulling it away from the the ribbon cable.

    • When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips.

    • Perform a force restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

    Add Comment


To reassemble your device, reapply the display adhesive and follow these instructions in reverse order. For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery: Drain battery below 10%, then charge uninterrupted to 100%.

106 other people completed this guide.

Paige Reisman

Member since: 04/07/2014

13,828 Reputation

14 Guides authored


Does this effectively negate the waterproof feature of the new iPhones?

erikkrag - Reply

yes , unless it is sealed back with new waterproof tape, which almost no one has yet

Atronx -

iPhone 6 take battery off put new one now not changing at all but saying yes but no going up new battery saying all time 6@.all time

ant2101 - Reply

Is there any way to put back the waterproof sealing after changing the battery for iPhone 7? Thanks

steven Tanda Putra - Reply

I too would like to know this! It's a shame they don't elaborate as such. There is this part here - Display Adhesive iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive which I assume needs to be put on after the screen is taken off but this guide says it's not needed? But for a screen repair it is? Does it get placed on the phone housing or screen? Thanks

blitzn -

Yep, we have a guide for replacing the seal (display adhesive) now. I don't know how waterproof the seal will be afterward, but I think it's worth doing regardless.

Jeff Suovanen -

Most of the adhesives that are being sold are not rated to be waterproof, and are not the geniune OEM brand materials.

Atronx -


Now I got a huge problem concerning the HomeButton/ForceTouch-function.

It does not work anymore. I think it's a safety measure by Apple to prevent people from changing their batteries.

ANY HELP, please? :(

87schiller - Reply

Those functions aren't related to the battery. Double-check your work, reseat the cable connectors, and inspect the cables and home button hardware carefully for damage.

Jeff Suovanen -

I know this is a month late, but hopefully this helps someone. On the 7, 3D Touch and the home button are routed through the same flex cable that comes out from underneath the metal backing of the display and plugs into the board.

This flex cable is very easy to pull and damage when taking the screen off for the first time. In most situations you won't see this damage because it will be underneath the metal backing of the display.

If this same thing happens to you, you'll unfortunately need a screen replacement to fix it.

Cody Dover -

My problem is with the 4 tri screws holding the 1st bracket down. They just spin, all 4 of them. The screw heads aren't stripped, as they all spin, they just don't back out. I've applied backpressure in hopes that would help lift the screws, but no luck.

Jeff Hurst - Reply

Is Iphone 7 battery connector same as battery connector of Iphone 6S or other models?

Tumen - Reply

No. Different connectors.

Ben -

Might want to update your website.

iHelpU.Tech is currently working on obtaining certifications from Apple Inc. Currently none of our repairs are backed by Apple Inc.

obed - Reply

You dont have to remove the Taptic Engine but it gives you more room to work with the glue.

nicolay.94 - Reply

Hello there, I got a dead iPhone 7, so I tested the battery, and the only “weird” thing.. is that the battery is rated 3.8v… and on this one.. im having a reading of 4.1V…. maybe this overpowered issue is preventing the iPhone to turn on???

jbermudez27 - Reply

So, I changed the battery of my iPhone 7 with the kit provided by IFIXIT a couple of days ago, and cononutBattery is reporting that the battery is already at 95% (1862 out of 1960 mAh), with only 1 charge cycle. Is this normal?

Federico Baier - Reply

Hi Federico

Did you try the following tip?

For optimal performance after completing the guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Drain it below 10%, then charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

Takehiro -

nice video but if possible upload a pdf file

thank you very much…………….

Ali Zain - Reply

The step by step guide can be converted to a pdf by selecting Options>Download PDF.

Sam Lionheart -

in this website can i have mobile and tab schematics ?

Ali Zain - Reply

This is a truly fantastic account of how to do this. Well done.

I had to abandon when the kit I was supplied did not include a tri screwdriver but I watched the engineer finish my work and it was exactly as shown here.

hdisgreat - Reply

mnvery east to follow quide but i almoust did burn down my phone when i was removing battery it cathed on fire and i have no idea did i puncture it or what.

Samuli Karppinen - Reply

In any such venture, when dealing with precision components. DON’T RUSH, if you have any issue with hands that tremor for whateverr reason when handinlng small items, DON’T TRY THIS, LEAVE IT TO SOMEONE WITH STEADY HANDS !!

Shaun O'Connor - Reply

My iPhone 7 wasn't not charging. So, After searching on Google, I found this guide "iPhone 7 not charging". And, with this guide I get to know about that, my iPhone battery got damaged. And, My iPhone warranty also got expired. So, I have decided to replace the battery by myself. And, this guide really helped me to replace my iPhone battery. Just want to say thanks to you. :)

nagarakshya - Reply

Can you pull the battery adhesive tabs without removing the Taptic Engine? Anyone tried that?

Balle - Reply

@balleklorin You certainly can, but you’re much more likely to break the adhesive strips that way. You want to pull them at as low an angle as possible, and with the Taptic Engine installed you’ll have to pull them at nearly 90 degrees. My advice is not to take shortcuts, but it’s your phone and your rules! Good luck.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi ! I want to do this repair but I read online that if I use a non-original battery Apple’s software will detect it and will slow down the phone (like it does for the damaged original battery).

Is it still true or is it fixed in the current IOS ?

Quentin barbry - Reply

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