Use this guide to replace a bent or damaged rear case, or to swap out the rear case for cosmetic reasons. The rear case serves as the chassis for the entire phone, so replacing it involves removing all the iPhone's components.

You can also use this guide for reference when replacing the following parts:

  • NFC Bracket
  • Loudspeaker Mount
  • Microphone Mount
  • Front Panel Clips
Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector.

Hi, just got the repair kit that came with IPhone 6S battery. I felt that there’s no explanation on which tool to use to remove the two 3.4mm P2 Pentalobe screws. It’s not helpful just to say “Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector. “. It’s more important to explain how and what tool to use. The repair tool kit tools were not marked at all and it’s not right to assume that people know which tool or part to use. Please kindly address this issue. Thanks. Janet

Janet Monaghen - Reply

@beingchen For the P2 pentalobe screws you should use the driver bit marked P2. Might be a little hard to see but it’s there, etched into the side of the bit.

Jeff Suovanen -

It’s very clear which tool you need. As it says these are “3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws” - so you need a 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screwdriver…

alexanderbrix1987 - Reply

Just a P2 driver—3.4 mm is the length of the screw.

Jeff Suovanen -

If you can’t identify which screwdriver in the kit to use, you probably shouldn’t be working on your phone. Just sayin’

Keith Hockenbeck - Reply

Opening the display on the 6s separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.
  • Opening the display on the 6s separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.

  • Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.

    • Take care not to place the suction cup over the home button.

Hello, I was wondering if there was a guide of how to replace the adhesive strips, thank you

Pablo Reyes - Reply

The suction cup will not work if you have a shattered screen. I put a tip of an exacto knife between the glass and side frame above the power connector, carefully pried up then used the spluger to pry the rest of the way up.

johnmurphyjr - Reply

Tape will work as well in order to create a smooth surface

Nick Stine -

Even tape didn’t work on my first shattered screen 6S disassembly. Had to reset to the exacto/thin blade technique.

Peter Bovey - Reply

For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.

Frank Terence - Reply

Can you use the iSclack opener to open the iPhone 6s?

Joe Koffee - Reply

The iSclack is helpful, although you have to use it a bit differently than you would on, say, a 5s or 6. The iSclack alone isn’t strong enough to pop the display open, because of all the adhesive around the perimeter of the 6s display. But you can use it to lift the display just enough to get a tool in there and start cutting the adhesive. Basically, the iSclack does the same job as the suction cup shown here, with maybe a bit less fuss.

Jeff Suovanen -

My screen was SUPER shattered… the hair dryer did the trick. Patience it definitely the key… I tried putting tape over the glass but the suction cup wouldn’t stick to it at all but it stuck to the broken glass for a few seconds. I taped it up when I was finally able to move onto the next steps to keep the glass from getting everywhere then peeled it off for Step 10.

Mandy Ng - Reply

Hi, it looks like, from reading the comments, that separating the display assembly from the phone is a tricky step.

Would the piece of equipment, in the link below, be any use at this stage? Seems it could be used for all makes and models.

Any info would be appreciated.

Michael Magor - Reply

I have a screen protector on my phone. I was wondering if it was going to be problem for the suction cup.

jeffreyleung2002 - Reply

  • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices and is held down with adhesive.

  • Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

  • If you have any trouble, heat the front of the iPhone using an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun until it's slightly too hot to touch. This will help soften the adhesive securing the edges of the display.

No, really. Do this on a table and use less strength than you think. If you open the display the whole way at this step you can easily rip the home button connections and one of several display connections at the top. <— too much experience... :(

chuymatt - Reply

Wow, that was tough. Patience, patience, patience. Did not use the iOpener, just firm and consistent pulling with the phone on a flat surface. When the suction cup comes off... clean the display surface and go back at it. I did use the pointed end of a spudger inserted into the headphone jack to hold down the bottom case whilst I pulled on the suction cup. Once there was sufficient room (see next step) you can just get the spudger (flat end) to slide in slightly.

plisi - Reply

If you're lifting up on the glass, how are you supposed to hold the rest of the phone down? Is it by holding the camera end down with the side of your hand and rotating your hand, or using your other hand (not pictured) on the edges (seems very difficult), or using a spudger in a jack?

Bryan - Reply

On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

scentaur - Reply

My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

Heidi Moser - Reply

Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

amylofton - Reply

What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

Jaredrett - Reply

hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

David Althaus - Reply

Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!



Jaredrett - Reply

The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

Jeff - Reply

Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

Todd Leach - Reply

Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

Mary Blocher - Reply

Much easier to do using the Spudger that is provided in the Pro Tool Kit. It has a thinner fin type head. The Spudger provided in this repair kit is definitely too thick and makes it far more difficult.

Tyler Brady - Reply

The spudger is too thick and the glue is too strong. Pulling up broke the glass below the power button. Now I am out $200 for a repair, plus a battery. Bummer. I am VERY good at repairing things. The adhesive on this is very very strong. The pentalobe tip that they send with the kits not milled well and I had to take a file and flatten the tip to get it to work - it is not finished well at all. I used the kit for the iPhone 6 for my Mom and had no problem. I am 51 and have been fixing things since I was very young.

greghabiby - Reply

Well, I shattered my screen trying to do this. So now I need a battery and screen repair. Not happy.

Carolann Parran - Reply

Me too! Be gentle!

Matthew Simoenau -

Removing the display was the hardest part of the whole job. The adhesive is very strong, but just be patient. What I ended up doing was to use the suction cup, the flat end of the spudger, and an iFixit opening tool. I used the suction cup on the screen as directed. Then I placed the flat end of the spudger just a bit into the charging port and held down the phone body by the spudger on my work mat. I pulled up on the suction cup, pushed down on the spudger, and inserted the thin iFixit opening tool in the small seperation. I took my time and worked my way around all of the edges. After that it was really easy. I was able to reuse the adhesive, and my new battery install went just as planned.

Eric Olson - Reply

Use a hair dryer as per the suggestions and this will definitely make the job easier and reducing the risk of breaking the display . Keep a steady pull of the display, don’t rush and it will start to show the small separation gap. An issue is that it will go back in place if you stop pulling before you can use the spudger tool. The suction tool that came with my repair kit did not have a ring on it as per the guide picture. It has a blue handle that is open on the side. I sat at my kitchen desk and opened a drawer. I hooked the open edge of the suction handle around the drawer side edge which me a third hand. I held the phone with one hand and pulled it away from the desk drawer. Once the separation started I could use my other hand with the flat edge of the spudger to complete the separation. Hope this helps.

emaneht - Reply

Hair dryer - 1 minute until it’s hot like a fresh mug of coffee. Then as soon as you see the smallest gap, insert a razor blade above the phones jack, I needed to slide it towards the charge port and back. Once it slips in keep it there and use your spudger to enlarge the gap and slide it along the corners.

Steve Esson - Reply

  • There is a notch on the underside of the display, just above the headphone jack. This is the safest place to begin prying the phone open.

  • Place the flat edge of a spudger into the gap between the screen and rear case, directly above the headphone jack.

WARNING: easy to stretch/ruin the adhesive

As you proceed, know that you must keep ALL of the adhesive stuck to the phone. If any stays stuck to display, it can become permanently stretched as you are prying and lifting. Then you’ll need to buy the replacement adhesive, once it’s back in stock!

Jason - Reply

If you’re opening the phone at all, you’re compromising the adhesive. There is absolutely no way to somehow open it perfectly so you can re-use it. Fortunately, it’s cheap and fairly easy to replace—and not even that critical on the 6s series anyway, since it’s not doing any real waterproofing.

Jeff Suovanen -

  • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel assembly and the rest of the phone.

No need to turn the spudger full 90°. Just turn it a little.

Martin Born - Reply

  • Insert the flat end of the spudger on the left side of the phone, between the display assembly and rear case.

  • Slide the spudger up the side of the phone to separate the adhesive and pop the clips free.

I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.

Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.

Martin Born - Reply

Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.

Bryan Solo -

Do not go into the top left corner too far your screen will crack i learned the hard way

Kevin - Reply

  • Remove the spudger and reinsert it on the bottom edge, where you pried the phone open.

  • Slide the spudger to the right, along the bottom edge of the phone.

Add Comment

  • Slide the spudger up the right side to continue separating the adhesive and popping the display clips free from the iPhone.

Add Comment

  • Use the suction cup to open the display, breaking the last of the adhesive.

  • Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.

Prop it up on something

Nick Stine - Reply

an old iPhone box and a rubber band lightly around the display works great to hold it at 90

Christa - Reply

  • Pull up on the nub on the top side of the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

Add Comment

  • Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

Smart idea :)

x226 - Reply

on the third picture, the screen is opened more than 90 degrees.

Mirza Zohaib - Reply

It said about 90 degrees

Nick Stine -

In the second picture I was originally wondering what that diagonal piece of material was. Now that I've done a repair I can say that it's the sticky adhesive around the edge of the phone lifting up with the screen.

jonl - Reply

  • Remove two Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket, of the following lengths:

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 2.2 mm screw

  • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

In order to put the correct screw back where you took it out mark the head surface and a small dot beside the hole with a pen. Use coloured pens if you want the exact location for each screw/hole. This goes for steps 17, (23) and 29 too.

lionno1 - Reply

  • Remove the battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Add Comment

  • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Be sure not to skip this step. It is crucial. I have had many repairs where the screen will not light up after the repair if the battery had not been disconnected and reconnected.

Andrew spoelstra - Reply

Thanks for the tip, Andrew.

William Turner -

It should also be mentioned, DO NOT USE A METAL SPUDGER. You could short the battery to other nearby metal parts. I've done that, the battery clip arced to the metal cover on some of the logic board chips, and my phone wouldn't power back on for 3 days. They should put a caution caption on this step. I've had this happen on a 5S as well.

Frank - Reply

Thanks for the tip, Frank.

William Turner -

SERIOUS WARNING!: During *reassembly*, you should NOT reconnect the battery connector until the VERY LAST step (upon reassembly!), as many people, including myself, apparently have smoked (burned, destroyed) the main Logic board. This happens when you reconnect the LCD/digitizer assembly FPC cable. ifixit should modify this instruction to be very explicit about this!

enoughstatic - Reply

  • Push the battery connector away from the logic board until it stays separated from its socket, so as to avoid any accidental connection to the battery while you work.

If you remove the grey bar with the word “TAPTIC” next, removal of the battery adhesive is much easier. It can be pulled straighter back with less chance of tearing. Here’s an image with the securing screws identified.

If you securely anchor the screen to a can of soup, it is not necessary complete step 16 Front Panel Assembly. I was able to remove the two bottom (1.2 mm) screws and the 2.8 mm screw, but could not get the upper (1.2 mm) screw. I was able to remove the old battery with the Front Panel Assembly left in place.

Edward Dziuk - Reply

Hi what it is called black cover between battery connector and sim card tray? Thanks

Rajendra - Reply

  • Remove the following four Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.8 mm screw

Thank you for this great guide!

I was able to skip removing the display assembly and logic board steps and lay the speaker upside down on the bottom edge of the logic board without putting undue pressure on the antenna cable making this a much easier and quicker repair for me. If you choose to leave the display assembly connected, I recommend using a rubber band to hold it to a box of similar size at a 90 degree angle to prevent damage and stress to the attached cables.

So, the steps I skipped were Steps 16 through 34 and Steps 37 through 45.

scentaur - Reply

The 1.2mm screw in the top left corner is refusing to come out, any help?

Harry Allinson - Reply

why does the battery fix kit not include the #00 bit needed to unscrew all 3 1.2mm screws?!?! !#^&@@ off.

robertdjclark - Reply

Either a #00 or a #000 bit should work fine here. Some #0 bits will also work if the point is fine enough. Same goes for a lot of JIS bits. As long as it doesn't strip or slip, you're good.

Jeff Suovanen -

My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.

David Shaddock - Reply

The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?

anujfolsom - Reply

I actually followed all the guide but isn’t the front panel disassembly skippable? And if so what are the benefits of removing it? Cause i had quite a hard time putting back in the connectors of the 3 flex cables.

GiovanniB - Reply

I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.

Anyone have the same issue?

Evander Lorenz - Reply

A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. Don’t expect the cheap drivers with kits to last more than one disassembly-assembly, if that! Also don’t keep mangled bits or drivers…throw them out!!!

Peter Bovey - Reply

what crews  should I use in this step PH000. OR Y000 OR P2 Plz help me

mshary alzhrany - Reply

The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws! I had to remove it without removing the display.

Matthias Wagner - Reply

I too experienced a problem with the size of the screwdriver here (supplied in the iFixit kit.) My phone also had a 5th screw right in the center of the plate - another 1.2mm. I removed and replace it without problems.

Scott Young - Reply

@scottvyoung Sounds like you’re working on an iPhone 6. These instructions are for the 6s.

Jeff Suovanen -

Screws are very small and very difficult to put back in!! Lost 2-3 screws

Put phone back together and of course doesnt work Waste of Money!

Thomas Kintigh - Reply

I purchased a “screw set” for an i-Phone 5 and have slowly been cannibalizing it whenever I lose a screw. It has been invaluable and the set includes enough screws that I have been able to cover all that have been dropped and lost for 3 i-Phones now. Using a magnetic mat has also limited my screw loss considerably! All of these items were purchased through IFIXIT at very reasonable cost. Thank you IFIXIT!

Peter Bovey -

The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit. (disappointing) So, I used scentar’s (comment above) method of a large rubber band wrapped around a book weighted kit box to hold it at 90 degrees. Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery.

laffinbuz - Reply

I had a problem reassembling the iPhone, my touchId wasn’t working any more even if the home button was working correctly. I don’t know why but loosening these 4 screw a bit made it work again. If I tight them again it doesn’t work. Maybe this can help someone.

Alex Mufatti - Reply

  • Remove the display cable bracket.

Add Comment

  • Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the front camera flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

Note carefully the order that they are removed.  My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence.  Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order.  After that they popped right into place.  The new cables don’t have the “fold” yet so display had to be held at 90 degrees until all three were installed and the cover reattached.

David Rogers - Reply

I pop up these screen connectors using my fingernail. After doing a lot of repairs, this is the easiest and fastest way to get them loose.

Kenneth Hilstan - Reply

  • Disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

  • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Recolor that "pinned" note about not pushing on the center in "RED" if you get a chance. Just sayin'.

William Turner - Reply

Good call. Thanks for the tip!

Evan Noronha -

I can't seem to get the digitizer cable to snap back into place. Any suggestions?

gbmazur - Reply

Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order. I had to remove the EMI shield (seven screws), and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble! The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one. When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it.

David Shaddock - Reply

  • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

  • Disconnect the display cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on.

Bailey Duncan - Reply

There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process, at least on my phone. The replacement screen also had 4, so no problem.

Scott Young - Reply

I am having a hard time reattaching the LCD cable. Is it possible I bent the connectors? Or possibly the gaskets around it are interfering? I’d like to just pull all of that waterproofing gasket off! >:(

Amanda Cooper (Doula) - Reply

Did you end up going this? My screen is black so I'm trying to figure out what i did

Alex Tanner -

I neglected to detach the battery before taking this step and upon reassembly I have no display. What might be my next step to repair.

Dennis Gagomiros - Reply

You can try reseating the cables, but the likely answer is that your logic board’s backlight circuit is blown. If you power on your phone and you can see an image on the display by shining a bright light on it, your backlight circuit is toast. This is a common repair and very fixable, but requires microsoldering equipment and expertise. It’s not a DIY.

Jeff Suovanen -

I made the same mistake and I'm wondering if you got a fix for it? Is the damage done on the screen assembly or phone itself?

goesprotocall -

My screen replacement only comes with two flex cables but all of the videos are showing three. It is not working to connect the flex cables to the connectors

cellabella1 - Reply

The third flex cable would be for the front-facing camera, sensors, etc. If you bought a display that doesn’t include those components, you’ll need to transfer them to your new display first, and then you’ll be able to install it and plug everything in. The instructions are over here. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive. The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive.

cdinger - Reply

There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work.

Ira Goldman - Reply

Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned.

Ira Goldman - Reply

Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board.

Bryan Solo - Reply

My replacement display was not functional, but I didn’t test it until after my adhesive was already applied. Might be worth double-checking the replacement screen works before applying the adhesive at all. (though I’m glad I tried it before closing it up!)

Ben - Reply

When reconnecting to the logic board, reverse the order, so display first, then digitizer and finally camera. The front pannel slides into small edge of the backchannel. So start at the top when you put front and back together.

Joep Willemsen - Reply

be sure battery is disconnected before reassembling the display —in case you reconnected it to position battery

Christa - Reply

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the iSight camera from its socket on the logic board.

Add Comment

  • Remove the following two Phillips screws over the iSight camera bracket:

    • One 1.6 mm screw

    • One 2.0 mm screw

Add Comment

  • Remove the camera bracket.

Add Comment

  • Insert a spudger to the side of the camera, between the rear case and the camera module.

  • Gently pry up on the camera to nudge it out from its housing.

Add Comment

  • Remove the camera.

There is one more step after this.

You must remove some metal part before you push out the camera ring.

Also must have new metal part because after you take out (metal part) cant back agin the same part.

Sry for my english.

Best regards

It Step - Reply

Hi - after doing this I had a little part left over … eek.. part number 160-5Z and two little screws… can you help by tells my me where ive gone wrong please? Thank you

Hayley graham - Reply

  • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

  • Press to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force.

Add Comment

  • Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.

  • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

Add Comment

  • Remove the two 2.3 mm Phillips screws securing the upper component cable connector bracket.

Add Comment

  • Remove the upper component cable connector bracket.

Add Comment

  • Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the top left Wi-Fi antenna:

    • Two 1.5mm screws

    • One 2.3 mm screw

    • One 1.9 mm screw

    • One 2.0 mm screw

Add Comment

  • Remove the top left Wi-Fi antenna.

Step 32, 33 & 34 & their pictures show the middle case "One 1.9 mm Phillips screw" under the Wi-Fi antenna chip having been removed when it actually isn't removed until step 42. This made me think I had missed a step when I hadn't.

blitzn - Reply

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the audio control cable from its socket on the logic board.

Add Comment

  • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable from its socket on the upper right corner of the logic board.

It is still recommended to disconnect the antenna in this step as it will allow some slack you may need but tugging or pulling on the antenna cable down at the speaker could still damage it so be patience. Also lift on the connection from the metal portion as lifting from the cable could cause it to snap.

Bryan Solo - Reply

  • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable from its socket on the lower left corner of the logic board.

Be super careful here, pry the cable by the brass connector so as not to snap it off

Andrew Truglia - Reply

During reassembly: be aware that the replacement antenna connector (the one that comes as part of the lightning port assembly) might be a very snug fit here. It probably took me close to 10 minutes to get mine on. Thankfully the little sucker is stronger than it looks, or else I would have smushed it flat multiple times. You’ll know that you finally have it when it lightly snaps in place.

crimsontideaggie - Reply

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the Lightning connector ribbon cable. Lift up to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

Reassembly: A lot of adhesive held this cable down. Had difficulty getting this ribbon cable reconnected to the socket; it kept popping back up. I think the antenna cable was not exactly where it needed to be, and I had to mess with logic board a bit to make sure the antenna cable was wedged down where it needed to be.

Heidi Moser - Reply

Unless you are replacing the speaker you may skip to step 46 as removal of the logic board is not necessary.

Bryan Solo - Reply

  • Gently pull up on the antenna cable to de-route it from the two clips on the right side of the logic board.

nope, don't bother taking the logic board out if your just replacing the lightning connector. when removing the speaker in the steps after you can just fold it over to the side leaving it connected by the antenna. obviously not very professional but saves a very lot of messing with the 6s's stupid wee plastic clips, brackets and what not.

waynemcguigan - Reply

Thanks friend!!

Pedro -

Wish I had read this comment earlier. Had a bear of a time reconnecting this antenna cable.

Heidi Moser - Reply

  • Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the NFC bracket to the logic board.

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  • Remove the NFC bracket.

Именно эта деталь отвечает за нормальную работу ApplePay, при возникновении ошибок часто является причиной, но не всегда.

Matvey Sokolov - Reply

“This particular part is responsible for the normal operation of ApplePay, when errors occur it is often the cause, but not always.” Translated this comment into english because I found it very helpful and figured other english speakers would find it helpful to know as well.

TitanTech Service Center - Reply

  • Remove the following two Phillips screws:

    • One 2.5 mm screw at the top of the logic board

    • One 1.4 mm screw set into the upper edge of the rear case

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  • Remove the plastic clip.

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  • Remove the final three screws securing the logic board to the rear case:

    • One 1.9 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.5 mm hex nut

    • One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

The tool to remove the hex standoff screw WASNT included in the recommended parts list. A hex driver bit WAS included; however the hex screw needs to be removed using a socket type bit. I removed it using the tweasers as pliers.

mario cruz - Reply

You're right, we listed the wrong driver type. It's listed correctly now—the 2.5 mm nut driver is the tool you want.

Jeff Suovanen -

I used a 2.5mm nut driver for the standoff.

leres - Reply

I found it easy using flat head 1 bit

Darnel Braxton - Reply

It works with the iphone Pentalobe Screwdriver for me ...

javiercebrianrico - Reply

It worked with Pentalone driver.

Jay .Patel - Reply

For some reason the 2.5 mm nut driver in my iFixIt tool set does not work. I think the nut is a bit too shallow (short) to fit into the driver itself

ray - Reply

Hi Ray! If you think you have a faulty bit, please don’t hesitate to contact customer service, they’ll take care of you!

Sam Lionheart -

I have the same issue! the 2.5 mm nut driver in my 64 bit iFixIt tool set does not work.

just1ed - Reply

  • Insert an opening pick below the lower edge of the logic board, between the board and the loudspeaker.

  • Use the opening pick to gently lift the logic board out of its housing.

  • Remove the logic board.

While I haven’t actually used this guide, I’ll be back as soon as I get a replacement logic board…can anyone tell me where to get one for a 6s+ ?

johnysaunt - Reply

On reassembly, be sure the audio control cable isABOVE the logic board when you place it.

Cathy Sanford - Reply

  • Remove the two 1.5 mm Phillips screws holding the Taptic Engine in place.

  • Remove the Taptic Engine.

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  • Use tweezers to peel up the tips of the battery adhesive strips at the lower edge of the battery.

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  • Try not to wrinkle the strips during this procedure—they will become very difficult to deal with and will not straighten out again.

  • Pull one of the adhesive strips straight out, towards the bottom of the iPhone.

    • For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.

  • The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue to pull steadily, re-grabbing the strip closer to the iPhone if necessary.

  • Continue pulling until the strip is fully removed.

  • If the battery adhesive tabs break off at any point during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.

    • If one of the adhesive strips breaks under the battery during this procedure, and cannot be retrieved, remove the remaining strip, and then skip to Step 48.

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  • Repeat the previous step for the second adhesive strip.

    • Use one hand to hold down the battery as you remove the second strip, or the strip may fling the battery from the phone once it separates from the rear case.

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  • If you successfully removed all three adhesive strips, move on to the next step. Otherwise, you will need to pry the battery from the rear case.

  • Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the back of the rear case, directly over the battery. Alternatively, you can apply heat using a heat gun or hair dryer.

  • After about a minute, flip the phone over and use a plastic card to break up any remaining adhesive behind the battery.

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  • Remove the battery.

  • When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips.

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  • Remove the single 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the flash bracket.

  • Remove the flash bracket.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the flash out of its housing in the rear case.

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  • Remove the following five Phillips screws:

    • Two 2.5 mm screws set into the left edge of the rear case

    • One 2.1 mm Phillips #000 screw set into the left edge of the rear case

    • Two 2.1 mm screws set into the right edge of the rear case

  • If you overtighten these screws during reassembly, your power and volume buttons may not click properly. Check the clicking action on each button before you continue with reassembly.

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  • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to gently separate the microphone from the rear case.

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  • Slide an opening pick between the upper component cable and the rear case.

  • Gently separate the cable from the rear case.

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  • Continue pushing the opening pick under the cable until it fully separates from the rear case.

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  • Remove the upper component cable assembly.

When replacing this harness/flex, the mute switch is not supplies with the REQUIRED bracket. There is no way to securely attach the mute switch to the original mute bracket or to a replacement bracket. The supplied mute switch only (less bracket) makes this entire repair useless as there is no way to fasten the switch to a used or replacement bracket as it is all one assebmly. SOLUTION: purchase a flex with all metal parts attached to the flex. These are available from other suppliers. Why iFixit sells this one likely because it's cheaper but this repair using their bracketless mute switch is NOT possible.

Jblack - Reply

A bummer that I discovered your comment after I tried and figured this out myself. This is really frustrating that iFixit does not warn one that the repair can’t work with the part they sell

arnstefan - Reply

The guide has been updated to include how to transfer the mute switch from your old cable to the new one.

The part iFixit sells is fully functional and should allow you to complete the repair. Sorry about the confusion!

Arthur Shi - Reply

  • If your replacement part did not come with the mute switch cover, you will need to remove the switch cover and transfer It.

    • Use the flat end of the spudger to press down and hold the old bracket firmly in place.

    • Use tweezers or your fingers to carefully rock the switch cover such that the switch cover pins swing out of their clips.

    • Lift the switch cover straight up.

  • To install the mute switch cover onto the new upper cable assembly, reverse the steps.

    • The pins are supposed to rest near the clip opening. Do no attempt to force the pins far into the clips. The switch cover will be held securely in place once you screw the bracket back onto the case.

    • The switch cover goes on in only one orientation. If you are having a hard time getting the switch cover onto the new part, try toggling the switch so that the black protruding lever is in a different position.

  • Before reassembling the phone, check all switches and buttons to see if they physically work.

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  • Grasp the metal bar behind either of the two volume control button covers, and pull the button cover out of its housing in the rear case.

  • Repeat for the second volume control button cover.

  • Check for proper orientation when reinstalling the button covers. The metal bar should swing downward, towards the rear case of the iPhone.

I changed the backcover and the buttons. The new buttons had no little round metal knobs in the middle. If these knobs are missing, you can't use the switches. I removed the metal knobs carefully with a scalpel and glued them to the new buttons.

Michael - Reply

  • Grasp the metal bar on the back of the power button cover.

  • Remove the power button cover.

  • Check for proper orientation when reinstalling the button cover. The metal bar should swing downward, towards the rear case of the iPhone.

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  • Deroute the antenna cable from its rubber sleeve on the right edge of the rear case.

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  • Remove the antenna cable from the metal clip on the right edge of the rear case.

Missing from the guide:

If you are replacing the rear case, the bracket holding the antenna in place must also be transferred to the new case.

saintvir0 - Reply

  • Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the speaker to the rear case:

    • Two 2.6 mm screws

    • Two 2.3 mm screws

    • One 3.0 mm screw

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  • Use your fingers to lift the speaker out of its housing in the rear case.

  • Remove the speaker assembly.

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  • Remove the following eight Phillips screws:

    • Two 2.9 mm screws securing the headphone jack

    • One 3.7 mm screw securing the microphone bracket

    • Two 1.3 mm screws on the lower edge of the iPhone

    • Two 1.9 mm screws on either side of the Lighting connector

    • One 3.0 mm screw to the left of the connector

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  • Remove the plastic microphone bracket.

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  • Insert an opening pick between the Lightning connector assembly and the rear case to begin breaking up the adhesive holding the flex cable in place.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger to continue separating the Lightning connector assembly from the rear case.

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  • Use the tip of a spudger to separate the two microphones from the lower edge of the rear case.

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  • Remove the Lightning connector and headphone jack assembly.

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  • Only the rear case remains.

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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

45 other people completed this guide.

Evan Noronha

Member since: 02/05/2015

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I can't get the phillips 000 screw out on step 52, now it's become too hollow within to open. What do I do?

Anun Azganun - Reply

Stripped screws are the worst! We have a guide on how to remove stripped screws that you may find helpful. Remember to maintain lots of pressure on the screw and stop applying force and try a different method if the bit is still slipping.

Evan Noronha -

Every thing works fine except I have no sound, either on speakerphone or normally. Did I break the upper component cable? I've checked all the plug connections and they seem ok.

John Lesnik - Reply

I have no sound at all from the normal speaker or in speakerphone mode. I have good cellular and Wi-Fi connections and the phone sees to work perfectly otherwise. The battery charges fine through the Lightning connector. Can't use it as a phone though! Did I break the upper component cable in the disassembly? Any other ideas?

John Lesnik - Reply

Before I start.. many steps involve pulling flex cables away from adhesive films lining the case. If my replacement back has no such adhesive films, or they are no longer sticky, what's the impact? Will I have a phone that buzzes and resonates when on speakerphone?

Handy - Reply

When you peel away the cables, the adhesive tends to come with. YMMV but I've always been able to re-use them without a problem. They won't be as sticky as they were originally, but they'll stay sticky enough to get the job done—plus, most of those ribbon cables are layered beneath other components that secure to the case with screws. So, they're not going anywhere. The only adhesive I'd bother actually replacing is the battery adhesive strips (and maybe the display perimeter adhesive, if and when it becomes available).

Jeff Suovanen -

My power and volume buttons don't click or seem to press anything on my phone once I put it back together. What do I need to do to correct this issue?

Imanie Coleman - Reply

You most likely overtightened the screws in Step 52. Back them off a quarter turn or so at a time, and test your buttons until they click properly before you reassemble. The screws should be tight enough to secure everything, but not so tight that the buttons won't click. Sometimes it's just one side that needs to be loosened, and you can keep the other side pretty snug. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

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