Introduction

Use this guide to replace the upper component cable, a.k.a. audio control cable. It includes the volume control buttons, silent switch, true tone flash, microphone, and sleep/wake button in an iPhone 6s.

You can also use this guide to replace the following parts:

Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector.

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Opening the display on the 6s separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.
  • Opening the display on the 6s separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.

  • Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.

    • Take care not to place the suction cup over the home button.

Hello, I was wondering if there was a guide of how to replace the adhesive strips, thank you

Pablo Reyes - Reply

The suction cup will not work if you have a shattered screen. I put a tip of an exacto knife between the glass and side frame above the power connector, carefully pried up then used the spluger to pry the rest of the way up.

johnmurphyjr - Reply

Tape will work as well in order to create a smooth surface

Nick Stine -

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices and is held down with adhesive.
  • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices and is held down with adhesive.

  • Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

No, really. Do this on a table and use less strength than you think. If you open the display the whole way at this step you can easily rip the home button connections and one of several display connections at the top. <— too much experience... :(

chuymatt - Reply

Wow, that was tough. Patience, patience, patience. Did not use the iOpener, just firm and consistent pulling with the phone on a flat surface. When the suction cup comes off... clean the display surface and go back at it. I did use the pointed end of a spudger inserted into the headphone jack to hold down the bottom case whilst I pulled on the suction cup. Once there was sufficient room (see next step) you can just get the spudger (flat end) to slide in slightly.

plisi - Reply

If you're lifting up on the glass, how are you supposed to hold the rest of the phone down? Is it by holding the camera end down with the side of your hand and rotating your hand, or using your other hand (not pictured) on the edges (seems very difficult), or using a spudger in a jack?

Bryan - Reply

On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

scentaur - Reply

My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

Heidi Moser - Reply

Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

amylofton - Reply

What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

Jaredrett - Reply

hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

David Althaus - Reply

Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!

Goodluck!!

-J

Jaredrett - Reply

The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

Jeff - Reply

Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

Todd Leach - Reply

Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

Mary Blocher - Reply

There is a notch on the underside of the display, just above the headphone jack. This is the safest place to begin prying the phone open. Place the flat edge of a spudger into the gap between the screen and rear case, directly above the headphone jack.
  • There is a notch on the underside of the display, just above the headphone jack. This is the safest place to begin prying the phone open.

  • Place the flat edge of a spudger into the gap between the screen and rear case, directly above the headphone jack.

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Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel assembly and the rest of the phone. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel assembly and the rest of the phone.
  • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel assembly and the rest of the phone.

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Insert the flat end of the spudger on the left side of the phone, between the display assembly and rear case. Slide the spudger up the side of the phone to separate the adhesive and pop the clips free.
  • Insert the flat end of the spudger on the left side of the phone, between the display assembly and rear case.

  • Slide the spudger up the side of the phone to separate the adhesive and pop the clips free.

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Remove the spudger and reinsert it on the bottom edge, where you pried the phone open. Slide the spudger to the right, along the bottom edge of the phone.
  • Remove the spudger and reinsert it on the bottom edge, where you pried the phone open.

  • Slide the spudger to the right, along the bottom edge of the phone.

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Slide the spudger up the right side to continue separating the adhesive and popping the display clips free from the iPhone. Slide the spudger up the right side to continue separating the adhesive and popping the display clips free from the iPhone.
  • Slide the spudger up the right side to continue separating the adhesive and popping the display clips free from the iPhone.

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Use the suction cup to open the display, breaking the last of the adhesive. Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.
  • Use the suction cup to open the display, breaking the last of the adhesive.

  • Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.

Prop it up on something

Nick Stine - Reply

Pull up on the nub on the top side of the suction cup to remove it from the front panel. Pull up on the nub on the top side of the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
  • Pull up on the nub on the top side of the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

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Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge. Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone. Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
  • Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

Smart idea :)

x226 - Reply

on the third picture, the screen is opened more than 90 degrees.

Mirza Zohaib - Reply

It said about 90 degrees

Nick Stine -

In the second picture I was originally wondering what that diagonal piece of material was. Now that I've done a repair I can say that it's the sticky adhesive around the edge of the phone lifting up with the screen.

jonl - Reply

Remove the two Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket:
  • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket:

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 2.2 mm screw

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Remove the battery connector bracket from the iPhone. Remove the battery connector bracket from the iPhone.
  • Remove the battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

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Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
  • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Be sure not to skip this step. It is crucial. I have had many repairs where the screen will not light up after the repair if the battery had not been disconnected and reconnected.

Andrew spoelstra - Reply

Thanks for the tip, Andrew.

William Turner -

It should also be mentioned, DO NOT USE A METAL SPUDGER. You could short the battery to other nearby metal parts. I've done that, the battery clip arced to the metal cover on some of the logic board chips, and my phone wouldn't power back on for 3 days. They should put a caution caption on this step. I've had this happen on a 5S as well.

Frank - Reply

Thanks for the tip, Frank.

William Turner -

SERIOUS WARNING!: During *reassembly*, you should NOT reconnect the battery connector until the VERY LAST step (upon reassembly!), as many people, including myself, apparently have smoked (burned, destroyed) the main Logic board. This happens when you reconnect the LCD/digitizer assembly FPC cable. ifixit should modify this instruction to be very explicit about this!

enoughstatic - Reply

Push the battery connector away from the logic board until it stays separated from its socket, so as to avoid any accidental connection to the battery while you work. Push the battery connector away from the logic board until it stays separated from its socket, so as to avoid any accidental connection to the battery while you work.
  • Push the battery connector away from the logic board until it stays separated from its socket, so as to avoid any accidental connection to the battery while you work.

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Remove the following four Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket:
  • Remove the following four Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.8 mm screw

Thank you for this great guide!

I was able to skip removing the display assembly and logic board steps and lay the speaker upside down on the bottom edge of the logic board without putting undue pressure on the antenna cable making this a much easier and quicker repair for me. If you choose to leave the display assembly connected, I recommend using a rubber band to hold it to a box of similar size at a 90 degree angle to prevent damage and stress to the attached cables.

So, the steps I skipped were Steps 16 through 34 and Steps 37 through 45.

scentaur - Reply

The 1.2mm screw in the top left corner is refusing to come out, any help?

Harry Allinson - Reply

why does the battery fix kit not include the #00 bit needed to unscrew all 3 1.2mm screws?!?! !#^&@@ off.

robertdjclark - Reply

Either a #00 or a #000 bit should work fine here. Some #0 bits will also work if the point is fine enough. Same goes for a lot of JIS bits. As long as it doesn't strip or slip, you're good.

Jeff Suovanen -

My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.

David Shaddock - Reply

The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?

anujfolsom - Reply

I actually followed all the guide but isn’t the front panel disassembly skippable? And if so what are the benefits of removing it? Cause i had quite a hard time putting back in the connectors of the 3 flex cables.

GiovanniB - Reply

I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.

Anyone have the same issue?

Evander Lorenz - Reply

Remove the display cable bracket. Remove the display cable bracket.
  • Remove the display cable bracket.

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Use the flat end of a spudger, or a fingernail, to disconnect the front camera flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger, or a fingernail, to disconnect the front camera flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger, or a fingernail, to disconnect the front camera flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

Note carefully the order that they are removed.  My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence.  Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order.  After that they popped right into place.  The new cables don’t have the “fold” yet so display had to be held at 90 degrees until all three were installed and the cover reattached.

David Rogers - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger, or a fingernail, to disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board. When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger, or a fingernail, to disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

  • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Recolor that "pinned" note about not pushing on the center in "RED" if you get a chance. Just sayin'.

William Turner - Reply

Good call. Thanks for the tip!

Evan Noronha -

I can't seem to get the digitizer cable to snap back into place. Any suggestions?

gbmazur - Reply

Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order. I had to remove the EMI shield (seven screws), and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble! The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one. When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it.

David Shaddock - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger, or a fingernail, to disconnect the display data cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger, or a fingernail, to disconnect the display data cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger, or a fingernail, to disconnect the display data cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on.

Bailey Duncan - Reply

Remove the display assembly.

If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive. The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive.

cdinger - Reply

There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work.

Ira Goldman - Reply

Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned.

Ira Goldman - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the iSight camera from its socket on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the iSight camera from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the iSight camera from its socket on the logic board.

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Remove the following two Phillips screws over the iSight camera bracket:
  • Remove the following two Phillips screws over the iSight camera bracket:

    • One 1.6 mm screw

    • One 2.0 mm screw

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Remove the camera bracket. Remove the camera bracket.
  • Remove the camera bracket.

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Insert a spudger to the side of the camera, between the rear case and the camera module. Gently pry up on the camera to nudge it out from its housing.
  • Insert a spudger to the side of the camera, between the rear case and the camera module.

  • Gently pry up on the camera to nudge it out from its housing.

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Remove the camera. Remove the camera.
  • Remove the camera.

There is one more step after this.

You must remove some metal part before you push out the camera ring.

Also must have new metal part because after you take out (metal part) cant back agin the same part.

Sry for my english.

Best regards

It Step - Reply

Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray. Press to eject the tray.
  • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

  • Press to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force.

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Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.
  • Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.

  • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

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Remove the two 2.3 mm Phillips screws securing the upper component cable connector bracket.
  • Remove the two 2.3 mm Phillips screws securing the upper component cable connector bracket.

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Remove the upper component cable connector bracket. Remove the upper component cable connector bracket.
  • Remove the upper component cable connector bracket.

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Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the top left Wi-Fi antenna: Two 1.5mm screws
  • Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the top left Wi-Fi antenna:

    • Two 1.5mm screws

    • One 2.3 mm screw

    • One 1.9 mm screw

    • One 2.0 mm screw

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Remove the top left Wi-Fi antenna. Remove the top left Wi-Fi antenna.
  • Remove the top left Wi-Fi antenna.

Step 32, 33 & 34 & their pictures show the middle case "One 1.9 mm Phillips screw" under the Wi-Fi antenna chip having been removed when it actually isn't removed until step 42. This made me think I had missed a step when I hadn't.

blitzn - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the audio control cable from its socket on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the audio control cable from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the audio control cable from its socket on the logic board.

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Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable from its socket on the upper right corner of the logic board. Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable from its socket on the upper right corner of the logic board.
  • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable from its socket on the upper right corner of the logic board.

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Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable from its socket on the lower left corner of the logic board. Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable from its socket on the lower left corner of the logic board.
  • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable from its socket on the lower left corner of the logic board.

Be super careful here, pry the cable by the brass connector so as not to snap it off

Andrew Truglia - Reply

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the Lightning connector ribbon cable. Lift up to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board. Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the Lightning connector ribbon cable. Lift up to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the Lightning connector ribbon cable. Lift up to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

Reassembly: A lot of adhesive held this cable down. Had difficulty getting this ribbon cable reconnected to the socket; it kept popping back up. I think the antenna cable was not exactly where it needed to be, and I had to mess with logic board a bit to make sure the antenna cable was wedged down where it needed to be.

Heidi Moser - Reply

Gently pull up on the antenna cable to de-route it from the two clips on the right side of the logic board. Gently pull up on the antenna cable to de-route it from the two clips on the right side of the logic board.
  • Gently pull up on the antenna cable to de-route it from the two clips on the right side of the logic board.

nope, don't bother taking the logic board out if your just replacing the lightning connector. when removing the speaker in the steps after you can just fold it over to the side leaving it connected by the antenna. obviously not very professional but saves a very lot of messing with the 6s's stupid wee plastic clips, brackets and what not.

waynemcguigan - Reply

Thanks friend!!

Pedro -

Wish I had read this comment earlier. Had a bear of a time reconnecting this antenna cable.

Heidi Moser - Reply

Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the NFC bracket to the logic board.
  • Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the NFC bracket to the logic board.

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Remove the NFC bracket. Remove the NFC bracket.
  • Remove the NFC bracket.

Именно эта деталь отвечает за нормальную работу ApplePay, при возникновении ошибок часто является причиной, но не всегда.

Matvey Sokolov - Reply

Remove the following two Phillips screws: One 2.5 mm screw at the top of the logic board
  • Remove the following two Phillips screws:

    • One 2.5 mm screw at the top of the logic board

    • One 1.4 mm screw set into the upper edge of the rear case

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Remove the plastic clip. Remove the plastic clip.
  • Remove the plastic clip.

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Remove the final three screws securing the logic board to the rear case:
  • Remove the final three screws securing the logic board to the rear case:

    • One 1.9 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.5 mm standoff hex nut

    • One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

The tool to remove the hex standoff screw WASNT included in the recommended parts list. A hex driver bit WAS included; however the hex screw needs to be removed using a socket type bit. I removed it using the tweasers as pliers.

mario cruz - Reply

You're right, we listed the wrong driver type. It's listed correctly now—the 2.5 mm nut driver is the tool you want.

Jeff Suovanen -

I used a 2.5mm nut driver for the standoff.

leres - Reply

I found it easy using flat head 1 bit

Darnel Braxton - Reply

It works with the iphone Pentalobe Screwdriver for me ...

javiercebrianrico - Reply

It worked with Pentalone driver.

Jay .Patel - Reply

Insert an opening pick below the lower edge of the logic board, between the board and the loudspeaker. Use the opening pick to gently lift the logic board out of its housing. Remove the logic board.
  • Insert an opening pick below the lower edge of the logic board, between the board and the loudspeaker.

  • Use the opening pick to gently lift the logic board out of its housing.

  • Remove the logic board.

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Remove the two 1.5 mm Phillips screws holding the Taptic Engine in place. Remove the Taptic Engine.
  • Remove the two 1.5 mm Phillips screws holding the Taptic Engine in place.

  • Remove the Taptic Engine.

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Use tweezers to peel up the tips of the battery adhesive strips at the lower edge of the battery. Use tweezers to peel up the tips of the battery adhesive strips at the lower edge of the battery. Use tweezers to peel up the tips of the battery adhesive strips at the lower edge of the battery.
  • Use tweezers to peel up the tips of the battery adhesive strips at the lower edge of the battery.

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Try not to wrinkle  the strips during this procedure—they will become very difficult to deal with and will not straighten out again. Pull one of the adhesive strips straight out, towards the bottom of the iPhone. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.
  • Try not to wrinkle the strips during this procedure—they will become very difficult to deal with and will not straighten out again.

  • Pull one of the adhesive strips straight out, towards the bottom of the iPhone.

    • For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.

  • The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue to pull steadily, re-grabbing the strip closer to the iPhone if necessary.

  • Continue pulling until the strip is fully removed.

  • If the battery adhesive tabs break off at any point during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.

    • If one of the adhesive strips breaks under the battery during this procedure, and cannot be retrieved, remove the remaining strip, and then skip to Step 48.

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Repeat the previous step for the second adhesive strip. Use one hand to hold down the battery as you remove the second strip, or the strip may fling the battery from the phone once it separates from the rear case.
  • Repeat the previous step for the second adhesive strip.

    • Use one hand to hold down the battery as you remove the second strip, or the strip may fling the battery from the phone once it separates from the rear case.

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If you successfully removed all three adhesive strips, move on to the next step. Otherwise, you will need to pry the battery from the rear case. Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the back of the rear case, directly over the battery. Alternatively, you can apply heat using a heat gun or  hair dryer.
  • If you successfully removed all three adhesive strips, move on to the next step. Otherwise, you will need to pry the battery from the rear case.

  • Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the back of the rear case, directly over the battery. Alternatively, you can apply heat using a heat gun or hair dryer.

  • After about a minute, flip the phone over and use a plastic card to break up any remaining adhesive behind the battery.

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Remove the battery.
  • Remove the battery.

  • When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips.

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Remove the single 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the flash bracket. Remove the flash bracket.
  • Remove the single 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the flash bracket.

  • Remove the flash bracket.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the flash out of its housing in the rear case. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the flash out of its housing in the rear case.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the flash out of its housing in the rear case.

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Remove the following five Phillips screws: Two 2.5 mm screws set into the left edge of the rear case
  • Remove the following five Phillips screws:

    • Two 2.5 mm screws set into the left edge of the rear case

    • One 2.1 mm Phillips #000 screw set into the left edge of the rear case

    • Two 2.1 mm screws set into the right edge of the rear case

  • If you overtighten these screws during reassembly, your power and volume buttons may not click properly. Check the clicking action on each button before you continue with reassembly.

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Use the pointed tip of a spudger to gently separate the microphone from the rear case. Use the pointed tip of a spudger to gently separate the microphone from the rear case.
  • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to gently separate the microphone from the rear case.

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Slide an opening pick between the upper component cable and the rear case. Gently separate the cable from the rear case.
  • Slide an opening pick between the upper component cable and the rear case.

  • Gently separate the cable from the rear case.

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Continue pushing the opening pick under the cable until it fully separates from the rear case. Continue pushing the opening pick under the cable until it fully separates from the rear case.
  • Continue pushing the opening pick under the cable until it fully separates from the rear case.

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Remove the upper component cable assembly.
  • Remove the upper component cable assembly.

When replacing this harness/flex, the mute switch is not supplies with the REQUIRED bracket. There is no way to securely attach the mute switch to the original mute bracket or to a replacement bracket. The supplied mute switch only (less bracket) makes this entire repair useless as there is no way to fasten the switch to a used or replacement bracket as it is all one assebmly. SOLUTION: purchase a flex with all metal parts attached to the flex. These are available from other suppliers. Why iFixit sells this one likely because it's cheaper but this repair using their bracketless mute switch is NOT possible.

Jblack - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Evan Noronha

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3 Comments

Does anyone know where the secondary cell antenna is located on the 6S, it's easily visible on the 6S plus.

Is it under the top wifi antenna, built into the board?

Or at step 41 removing a 'plastic clip' which I thought could be the gps antenna

Jeremy Dumitrache - Reply

Great guide...very helpful.

mrctony - Reply

I had a question about the last step. Mine Upper component cable appears to be attached to the brackets that hold it in place. They appear to have very small spot welds which i cannot remove. It looks like the new cable should wrap around the brackets with an adhesive but i cant seem to get the brackets off of the old cable. Why doesn't the new cable come with those brackets attached? Or was i supposed to order those as separate pieces?

Matt Harmon - Reply

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