Introduction

Follow the steps in this guide to replace the lower flex cable in an iPhone 6s Plus. This cable assembly is home to the headphone jack and Lightning connector. If your phone is having trouble charging or connecting via USB, or you have a loose headphone jack, replacing this component can resolve your issue.

Note that it's possible to replace this component while leaving the logic board installed, by skipping steps 22-37, 40-49, and 53. Then in step 56, instead of removing the speaker, you must either carefully move it out of the way, or detach it from the black antenna cables so you can remove it. Afterward, when removing the Lightning connector assembly, you must be extra careful not to pry against the logic board or battery. This approach leaves you less room to work, but eliminates a lot of steps.

You can also use this guide to replace the lightning connector bracket.

Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.4 mm Pentalobe screws on either side of the Lightning port.

Make sure you use the correct screw driver tip to remove these screws, which for the iPhone 6s Plus is the P2, otherwise you may strip the tip of the screw making it 10 times harder to remove. If once the screw is lose, it will not come off, use a magnet to remove it.

Miguel Perez - Reply

If I do it by myself, will it damage the water resistant strip?

I know iphone 7 have it ,but I am not sure 6s plus have it.

Ganqian Zhu - Reply

iPhone 6s has an adhesive gasket under the display, similar to the iPhone 7—however, it doesn’t add much in the way of waterproofing since the 6s has non-sealed openings in other parts of the phone. Water resistance on the 6s is primarily internal (seals around the logic board connectors, etc.). It may still be worthwhile to replace the adhesive on the 6s in order to help keep the display firmly seated so it doesn’t move/wobble at all under pressure, but the phone will continue to work fine whether you replace the adhesive or not.

Jeff Suovanen -

Salve nella procedura iniziale di smontaggio display con la ventosa non è menzionato il fatto di scaldare i lati del display per “ammorbidire” la striscia che incolla il display alla scocca.

Non è necessaria la cosa o è consigliabile ?

grazie

Hello, in the initial disassembling procedure with the suction cup, it is not mentioned how to heat the sides of the display to "soften" the strip that glues the display to the body.

Is not the thing necessary or is it advisable?

thank you

Daniele - Reply

How do I know that the Battery has ZERO Charging Cycles on it when it arrives ? Is there a (downside) to Higher Capacity batteries ? It is INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT to maintain a “Zero Chinese Products Lifestyle”, so how do I know that I’m not getting a deficient Chinese battery, potentially a refurb. battery ?

integritybuilders - Reply

When your repair is complete, you can use coconutBattery to check your new battery stats and cycle count. (A properly tested battery may already have a charge cycle or two on it.) Avoid higher capacity batteries on iPhones—they’re generally either gimmicks, unsafe, or both. As far as the quality of the part, that comes down to how much you trust your supplier and whether they guarantee the product.

Jeff Suovanen -

Opening the display on the 6s Plus separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.
  • Opening the display on the 6s Plus separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.

  • Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.

take out screws first!!

Yoav Karmon - Reply

Make sure you use the right screw driver tip for i phone 6s Plus, which is the P-2. If the screw will not come off once is lose, try using a magnet.

Miguel Perez - Reply

My cracked screen prevented the suction cup from sealing. SOLUTION: With a piece of clear packing tape across the screen, the suction cup will seal and pull.

Jim Cowles - Reply

  • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

  • Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

I had a shattered front glass panel so I could not get the suction cup to seal properly. I tried a couple of different ways to get good suction but to no avail. I eventually used a Stanley knife to pry up the corner so I could get the spudger into the opening.

John Architzel - Reply

A really high quality packing tape over the entire screen will usually be enough to use the suction cup on a shattered screen.

djwooten -

I used a suction cup on each side to provide counter traction. I braced the iphone between my knees and pulled apart while my helper inserted the spudger

jkanne - Reply

This was by FAR the most difficult part of this whole thing. I confess the spudger was not cutting it so I used a butter knife to get into the small opening first, then used the spudger to go around the screen.

Julie Sanchez - Reply

Hey everyone, if you never have done this part before be aware there is an extremely strong adhesive around the lip of the screen and once again is extremely strong. I had to get a friend to insert the pry/pick into the small gap while I used one hand to brace the phone down and the other to pull the suction cup without it digging into my hand. Go slow, it took me 5 tries because I didn’t realize how strong the adhesive was.

bartmistrot - Reply

I also had a badly cracked lower screen - that glass was actually threatening to pull off the phone in chunks during this step, even with packing tape. Resorted to @j2arch’s tip and inserted a utility knife vertically into the seam between the display and phone body. Was able to lever the glass enough to get the spudger in there.

Jason Augustyn - Reply

I have replaced sevrel screens for my sister in law and my niece. The packing tape has worked every time and that’s with it Shattered and pieces already falling out. You have to make sure the packing tape goes to the edge of the screen but doesn’t touch the frame. I have the plier like screen remover and use that it is much easier to remove the screen by your self with that tool. I also have the little finger suction cup that comes with the kit here. I bought the plier suction cup tool When I had to replace the screen that had the pieces of the screen missing and I don’t regret spending the extra money for that it has made a world of difference. I do this as a hobby it’s not a job for me. The electric divide repair kit from Lowe’s is also a very good kit to help. If you’re only going to do it once the kit that comes with the package is a great deal from ifixit. Well worth the money to spend the little extra to get the kit if you all ready don’t have the tools.

Brent - Reply

  • The safest place to pry from is the notch in the front panel above the headphone jack.

  • While still maintaining pressure on the suction cup, insert the flat tip of a spudger into the gap, directly above the headphone jack.

This was by far the hardest part of the repair for me. Getting leverage while finding a way to prod with a spudger is a challenge in coordination. I used a second spudger with point holding the phone down by the headphone jack, with the other end of the spudger anchored to my desk.

drpotter - Reply

  • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel and the rear case.

just changed the screen, but due to the tape along side the screen , it is best to heat a little so the glue losses and you can get the screen off better, like indicated

Bart Blanckaert - Reply

  • While firmly pulling up on the suction cup, slide the edge of the spudger under the bottom left corner of the display.

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  • Slide the tip of the spudger up the left side of the phone, between the front panel and the rear case.

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  • Insert the flat tip of the spudger under the right edge of the display.

  • Slide the spudger up the right side.

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  • Use a plastic opening tool to hold down the rear case while pulling up the suction cup to open the phone.

    • Do not remove the display completely, or you will damage the data cables connecting the display near the top edge of the iPhone.

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  • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the display.

Remember to apply the screen gasket on the re-assemble. The gasket is provided in the kit but not mentioned here on the instructions.

Won Hong - Reply

There’s a link to the entire gasket replacement procedure in Step 21.

Jeff Suovanen -

  • Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Don't open the display more than 90º—it is still connected to the top of the phone by the display, digitizer, and front camera cables which can tear easily.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to support the display.

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  • Remove two Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 2.3 mm screw

  • Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.

FYI - I used some blue painters tape wrapped around a piece of cardboard to hold the screws and brackets in place, in order, so they did not get lost. Some of those screws are MICROSCOPIC so be careful!

I also suggest having very good lighting, even a camping headlight for hands-free well lit work space. You will thank me later :-)

Julie Sanchez - Reply

Use the bit labeled “PH000”.

Joe Teichert - Reply

PH000 bit just wants to free-spin in the 2.3 mm screw. no bite in the head at all. had no difficulty removing the 2.9 mm screw with the same Phillips. had to abandon battery replacement effort.

Benjamin Stalcup - Reply

For this part, neither PH000 or Y000 worked. Technically, it’ll set you back 31$ because you will need the PH00 screwdriver for this part, and the part where you need to open the screen. They have ph00 screwdrivers in every hardware store and even ifixit.com. just know that they put the wrong screwheads for you

Jack Daniel - Reply

  • Remove the battery connector bracket.

Does it matter if the brackets arent put back in the phone? I bought a used phone and brackets are missing. Thanks!

Coupon Crazy - Reply

  • Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up off the logic board.

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  • Bend the connector back to ensure it doesn't make contact and power the iPhone on while you're working on it.

See my comment at the end of the procedure. If you work carefully, you need not remove the logic board and can skip ahead to step 38 after completing this step (disconnecting battery).

Mark Cousins - Reply

When putting the new battery in, make sure to line up the plug and not to the top of the battery… our battery was smaller so the plug would NOT have lined up if we used the top of the battery. ALSO, the plug was NOT 90 degrees so we had to finagle the plug. Also, make sure there is a clear CLICK when you plug in the connector or it may not work. Ours went in but guess didn’t go far enough so we had to take the screen off and push it harder until we heard the “click” then it worked fine.

Won Hong - Reply

  • Remove the following Phillips screws:

    • Three 1.3 mm screws

    • One 1.6 mm screw

    • One 3.0 mm screw

      • During reassembly, it's critical to place this 3.0 mm screw in the top-right corner of the bracket. Placing it anywhere else may damage the logic board.

I really don't see value in removing screen use box and rubber band keep at 90 degrees.

John Parker - Reply

I leave screen on as well for this. - Tho I prefer a 45 degree lean.

Thor -

I just changed my battery and also left the screen attached. I was lucky enough to get all 3 adhesive battery strips out clean so I didn’t have a struggle with the battery coming out. If I was going to need to get rough with it I was going to take the screen off at that point.

Michael Gross - Reply

To keep track of screws, draw a quick outline of the display cable bracket/cover, with five dots where screws should be. Drop the screws on the corresponding dot. Helps if you use magnet pad.

Christa - Reply

Better yet, print out the pictures from the iFixit website, and use clear tape (“Scotch tape”) to TAPE the screws onto the place in the picture where they belong.

Tom -

Which screwdriver from the kit do I use for which screw?

Shiva Sharma - Reply

I made a mistake and unscrewed the screw just north north west of the one circled in yellow. Of course I lost the screw. Can anyone give me any guidance about this? what does the wire connected to it do? What is the size of the screw, in case I have to replace it?

P.S. This is another reason to consider the possibility of NOT removing the screen just to replace the battery: removing the screen presents a additional possible headache, especially for people like me with bad eyesight who probably shouldn’t be doing this in the first place.

Tom - Reply

  • Remove the display cable bracket.

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  • Be careful to only pry up on the connector itself and not the socket on the logic board.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

FYI, in the video she uses the spudger for this but I think either one will work.

Julie Sanchez - Reply

  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

  • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Thanks you i fix it

God Hand - Reply

  • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

  • Disconnect the display cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

How much is this to replace?

Alistair knight - Reply

And where could I buy from?

Alistair knight - Reply

After finishing the assembly I got the message “Touch ID cannot be enabled on this phone”. I found this connector was loose. Plugged it back in and that fixed it.

Bryan Province - Reply

Always make sure to disconnect the battery before you do any work on the phone replacing any parts the digitizer or anything. And before you start make sure the phone is turned off you don’t want any power surges. If you also have a static electricity bracelet that also is a plus to use but isn’t a necessity just a nice piece of mind. Some cases you do need to use one so you don’t discharge static electricity to an electrical component and mess it up.

Brent - Reply

Be very careful in this step. I noticed it’s very easy to tear the flex when trying to lift it out of its socket from the right side.

shoeib - Reply

What is the cable and how is it connected/fixed to the motherboard between the bottom socket and the screw hole.

Mine came loose somehow?

Jason Engelsman - Reply

I figured out my own question its the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable. But how is it connected/secured to the motherboard?

Jason Engelsman - Reply

You need to clarify where exactly these "adhesive strips around the display" are, what they look like, and where to purchase new ones from.

Anthony - Reply

You can see what they look like in this blog post. Hopefully we'll have replacement adhesive strips available in the future, but right now I don't know of any suppliers. Your phone will work fine without replacing the adhesive—if I had to guess, I'd say it's there as a little extra insurance against display wobble now that 3D Touch has users pushing harder on their phones.

Jeff Suovanen -

We now have a detailed guide for replacing the adhesive strips, and we should have them in stock soon. The guide has been updated to reflect this.

Jeff Suovanen -

For instructions on home button swap out to the new screen you just installed, go here

iPhone 6s Plus Home Button Assembly Replacement

Superior Office Systems - Reply

Do you know whether the adhesive contributes to waterproofing, or just for stability/adhesion?

Christa - Reply

@kitabel The iPhone 6s case isn’t waterproof, so I don’t think adhesive around the display is contributing anything other than stability. The 6s series does have some water resistance, but it’s mostly internal and not something Apple advertises.

Jeff Suovanen -

  • Peel up any tape covering the iSight camera bracket screws.

If like me you are only wanting to clean out the speaker, you do not need to do this step. You can skip to step 50

Brad “Bradster48” Mason - Reply

  • Remove the following Phillips screws over the camera bracket:

    • One 1.9 mm screw

    • One 2.4 mm screw

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  • Remove the iSight camera bracket.

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  • Disconnect the iSight camera connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure to pry up only the connector and not the socket on the logic board.

If necessary, the sticky patch on top f the connector should be removed. Helped my case a lot :)

Alexander Leuschner - Reply

  • Insert the flat end of the spudger between the iSight camera and rear casing.

  • Gently pry the camera out from its housing.

Add Comment

  • Remove the iSight camera.

Hi ,

Thanks a lot for your tutorial !

Can you explain how can we change the lens of the camera ?

Thanks ;)

rocofolie - Reply

  • Insert a SIM eject tool into the hole in the SIM tray.

  • Press to eject the SIM tray.

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  • Remove the SIM tray.

  • When reinserting the SIM tray, be sure to orient the tray such that the SIM eject hole is on the bottom.

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  • Remove the single 1.4 mm Phillips screw holding the NFC bracket in place.

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  • Remove the NFC bracket.

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  • Remove the two 2.7 mm Phillips screws securing the audio control cable bracket to the logic board.

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  • Remove the audio control cable bracket.

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  • Disconnect the audio control cable by prying its connector straight up from its socket on the logic board.

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  • Disconnect the cellular antenna cable by prying its connector straight up from its respective socket on the logic board.

how do you plug this cable back in? any tips for lining up with the socket? i can't get it to stay :(

kapluni - Reply

Hold the cable with your tweezers and line the connector up over the socket as perfectly as you can, and then press straight down on it with the flat end of your spudger. Should snap into place with a bit of force.

Jeff Suovanen -

  • Disconnect the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable by prying its connector up from the logic board.

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  • Disconnect the power button flex cable from its socket on the logic board.

Don’t forget this guy when you’re putting it back in! you’ll have to undo a bunch of screws

Cassandra Vil - Reply

  • Disconnect the Lightning connector interconnect antenna cable by prying it up from the logic board.

This is not a Lightning connector - its a radio connector.

Brad - Reply

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Lightning connector flex cable from the logic board.

From here you can skip ahead to step 50.

Mark Cousins - Reply

  • Deroute the antenna cable from the two clips on the right edge of the logic board.

This is super vague. Doesn’t explain exactly HOW to remove the cable from the clips, like it does in step 44. Slightly damaged my cable because I didn’t know how to remove it or the nature of the clip.

Mason Rogers - Reply

  • Remove the following screws:

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.2 mm standoff screw

      • Standoff screws are best removed using an iPhone Standoff Screwdriver Bit and driver handle.

      • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

Use can use a spudger in a pinch to dislodge the 2.2mm standoff screw. This was the most difficult screw in the phone. A Phillips bit will not work.

mechamster - Reply

  • Remove the bracket.

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  • Deroute the upper left cellular antenna cable from the first logic board clip by nudging it out from under the clip, towards the battery.

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  • Continue derouting the cellular antenna cable from the second and third logic board clips.

  • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to gently pry the cellular antenna cable from the middle logic board clip.

    • Don't try to remove it by pulling on the cable, as it will tear easily.

  • In order for the cable to reach its socket on the logic board, you must route it above the logic board and underneath the audio control flex cable, as shown in the first photo.

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  • Remove the final 2.0 mm Phillips screw directly below the SIM card reader.

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  • Carefully raise—but do not remove—the logic board, lifting it from the bottom edge nearest the Lightning connector.

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  • Tip the logic board up to a vertical position to expose the single antenna connector on the underside, near the top edge of the board.

  • Do not attempt to fully remove the logic board yet, as the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna is still connected to the underside of the board.

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  • Gently lay the logic board upside-down, with the top portion resting against the rear case of the iPhone.

  • Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna cable from its socket on the back of the logic board.

Ugh, the socket connector separated from the back of the rigid cable. Two wires are still attached to the socket connector, but I’m guessing I’ll need to purchase a replacement WiFi/Bluetooth antenna cable at some point. I hope you sell these too?

Brad - Reply

**Update** I used the tiniest drop of super glue with activator on both the connector and cable. It seems to be holding! Will reassemble and see if it works. Lucky for me, you sell the replacement cable for $14.99 if my cheap bastard fix fails :)

Brad - Reply

**Update #2** Using super glue on the upper left wi-fi connector seems to have worked, both my bluetooth and wi-fi are working well post-repair.

Brad - Reply

  • Remove the logic board.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the Lightning connector flex cable off the speaker.

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  • Remove the following three Phillips screws from the Taptic Engine cable bracket:

    • Two 3.5 mm screws

    • One 2.7 mm screw

  • Remove the bracket.

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  • Remove the five Phillips screws securing the speaker to the rear case:

    • Two 2.7 mm screws

    • One 2.5 mm screw

    • One 1.5 mm screw

    • One 1.7 mm screw

Add Comment

  • Deroute the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable from its rubber sleeve.

    • If the white water damage indicator sticker makes it difficult to deroute the antenna cable, gently peel the sticker back for better access.

This step isn't necessary. You can leave this cable in place.

Mark Cousins - Reply

yes totally unnecessary to remove this or the board at all.

Smartfone NI - Reply

  • Use a pair of tweezers to disconnect the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable from the Lightning connector flex cable.

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  • Remove the final 2.6 mm Phillips screw securing the speaker to the rear case.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the speaker assembly out of its housing.

  • Remove the speaker assembly.

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  • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable from the lower flex cable.

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  • Remove the following screws holding the Taptic Engine in place:

    • One 3.1 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.1 mm Phillips screw

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  • Remove the Taptic Engine.

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  • Peel back the tape over the screw securing the Lightning connector flex cable to the lip of the phone.

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  • Remove the following five Phillips screws:

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 1.9 mm screw

    • One 1.5 mm screw

    • One 1.6 mm screw

    • One 1.3 mm screw set into the edge of the rear case

Add Comment

  • Prepare an iOpener and lay it across the bottom of the phone to soften the adhesive holding the Lightning connector flex cable in place.

  • Wait about a minute for the adhesive to soften before removing the iOpener and continuing.

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  • Insert an opening pick between the flex cable's upper right grounding bracket and the rear case to begin separating the two.

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  • Slowly, apply constant pressure to push the pick along underneath the flex cable, breaking up the adhesive holding it in place.

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  • Continue sliding the opening pick underneath the flex cable.

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  • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to nudge the 3.5 mm headphone jack from its housing in the rear case.

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  • Use an opening pick to pry the left microphone off the edge of the rear case.

make sure you don’t remove the little black plastic part that goes between the microphone & case, it was firmly attached to the left microphone.

Rhonda Tregay - Reply

  • Repeat the previous step for the lower right microphone.

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  • Remove the Lightning connector flex cable.

  • Before installing or replacing the Lightning connector flex cable assembly:

    • Use a plastic tool to scour any bits of adhesive residue from the rear case behind the cable.

    • Compare your replacement part to the original and note any differences. You may find a rubber gasket adhered to the old headphone jack, which should be transferred to the new part if needed.

    • Test fit your replacement part, and then peel off any protective plastic films or liners before installing.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

72 other people completed this guide.

Evan Noronha

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19 Comments

This is a good guide but I think pulling out the logic board is unnecessary. You can pull out the speaker and lightning connector assembly without removing the logic board. Will save you a ton of time and screws that need to be removed.

Chris Randall - Reply

Hardest thing I have every done!! But well worth it. Now I know I need to go up on my labor price!!! :-) Thanks a ton from South Carolina!!

apriltanner1975 - Reply

Agreed with Chris, logic board removal is absolutely unnecessary. Just rest the speaker assembly on the logic board

grze - Reply

Chris is right. I didn't even touch the logic board and did everything successfully. Just do steps 1-21 and then 50 till the end. Just be super careful with the speaker as the antenna is still connected and can break easily. You will not remove the speaker completely from the phone.

markrodhumm - Reply

A third +1 for Chris's comment: pulling out the logic board is completely unnecessary. In fact, if you are inexperienced with repairing small electronics, I highly advise against removing (or even touching) the logic board, as it is certainly the most expensive part, and among the most easily damaged

Talon - Reply

Just did this. Agree with everyone else, just flip the speaker over to get to the lightning connector assembly. Changes the repair time drastically

ztune - Reply

I just completed this repair, replacing the Headphone Jack/Lightening port, battery and iSight camera all at the same time. I removed everything as it explained in the guide, but can totally see how not removing the logic board would save time and isn't 100% necessary. I imagine that peeling the upper portion of the headphone/lighting port is slightly easier with the logic board removed, and you don't have to worry about that antenna cable. If I did it again, I would probably still remove the logic board.

Michael Cornforth - Reply

you would have to be crazy to remove the board. just flip the speaker up on its back and rest against logic board. 20 mins should complete this . i cant stress enough that board or camera does not need removed . PERIOD

Smartfone NI - Reply

I completed this and it starts charging, but the home button stop working. It still sense my finger print, but it does not respond when i click on it.

Any help?

Poh Chun Hou - Reply

In my experience that would be either a bad connection at the display connections or a damaged flex cable somewhere.

Sam Luber -

Does anyone have any idea why my SIM card is now not recognized ?

Tom Hogan - Reply

I am moving all the parts of my iPhone 6s plus over to a new housing because mine is badly damaged does anyone know what that gold paste is under the big flax cable for all the io ports?

Do i need to buy some more if so where ?

pls help with any advice…

Max - Reply

Would doing this erase any of my data because I don’t have icloud to back me up.

King Rush - Reply

needs a step for the rebuild on when to peel adhesive strips since they are underneath.

Rhonda Tregay - Reply

Just finished, including putting up tools. 2 hours. I agree with Chris and markrodhumm on leaving out some of the steps.

Terry Dunlap - Reply

Hey guys, just replaced my Lightning connector and it works great now. However when i’m not on wifi I have no service or it jumps in and out a lot. What could be the problem ?

Dillon Lackus - Reply

This guide needs to be changed/removed as it is 100% unnecessary to remove the logic board for a charge port repair. This guide turns a 20 minute repair into a much more difficult 2 hour repair. if you are an amateur following this guide, you are also much more likely to damage the functionality of your phone.

Alex Francis - Reply

We’ve added instructions in the intro for using the shorter procedure if desired. Both approaches have their pros and cons IMO. Use whichever one works best for you!

Jeff Suovanen -

Before doing anything in this article or taking or sending your phone or device in to be serviced:

Take a tooth pick, or a brand new never been used before toothbrush, or some canned air and using a flashlight to see inside the port, clean out any gunk, dirt, lint, or other obstruction from the charging port and try plugging your phone/device in again. Also, try a different charging cable to rule out the possibility of a bad cable. I know Apple cables are expensive, but it might just be the cheapie cable you purchased at a convenience store that is the culprit.

Yes your repair might actually be this simple.

By the way iFixit, excellent article!

John - Reply

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