Introduction

Follow the steps in this guide to replace the lower flex cable in an iPhone 6s Plus. This cable assembly is home to the headphone jack and Lightning connector. If your phone is having trouble charging or connecting via USB, or you have a loose headphone jack, replacing this component can resolve your issue.

You can also use this guide to replace the lightning connector bracket.

Image 1/1: Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.4 mm Pentalobe screws on either side of the Lightning port.

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Image 1/1: Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.
  • Opening the display on the 6s Plus separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.

  • Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.

take out screws first!!

Yoav Karmon - Reply

Image 1/2: Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case. Image 2/2: Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.
  • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

  • Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

I had a shattered front glass panel so I could not get the suction cup to seal properly. I tried a couple of different ways to get good suction but to no avail. I eventually used a Stanley knife to pry up the corner so I could get the spudger into the opening.

John Architzel - Reply

A really high quality packing tape over the entire screen will usually be enough to use the suction cup on a shattered screen.

djwooten -

Image 1/3: While still maintaining pressure on the suction cup, insert the flat tip of a spudger into the gap, directly above the headphone jack. Image 2/3: While still maintaining pressure on the suction cup, insert the flat tip of a spudger into the gap, directly above the headphone jack. Image 3/3: While still maintaining pressure on the suction cup, insert the flat tip of a spudger into the gap, directly above the headphone jack.
  • The safest place to pry from is the notch in the front panel above the headphone jack.

  • While still maintaining pressure on the suction cup, insert the flat tip of a spudger into the gap, directly above the headphone jack.

This was by far the hardest part of the repair for me. Getting leverage while finding a way to prod with a spudger is a challenge in coordination. I used a second spudger with point holding the phone down by the headphone jack, with the other end of the spudger anchored to my desk.

drpotter - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel and the rear case.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • While firmly pulling up on the suction cup, slide the edge of the spudger under the bottom left corner of the display.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Slide the tip of the spudger up the left side of the phone, between the front panel and the rear case.

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Image 1/2: Slide the spudger up the right side. Image 2/2: Slide the spudger up the right side.
  • Insert the flat tip of the spudger under the right edge of the display.

  • Slide the spudger up the right side.

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Image 1/2: Do '''''not''''' remove the display completely, or you will damage the data cables connecting the display near the top edge of the iPhone. Image 2/2: Do '''''not''''' remove the display completely, or you will damage the data cables connecting the display near the top edge of the iPhone.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to hold down the rear case while pulling up the suction cup to open the phone.

    • Do not remove the display completely, or you will damage the data cables connecting the display near the top edge of the iPhone.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the display.

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Image 1/3: Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone. Image 2/3: Don't open the display more than 90º—it is still connected to the top of the phone by the display, digitizer, and front camera cables which can tear easily. Image 3/3: Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
  • Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Don't open the display more than 90º—it is still connected to the top of the phone by the display, digitizer, and front camera cables which can tear easily.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to support the display.

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Image 1/1: One 2.9 mm screw
  • Remove the following Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket to the logic board:

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 2.3 mm screw

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the battery connector bracket.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Use the pointed tip of the spudger to disconnect the battery connector from the logic board.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Bend the connector back to ensure it doesn't make contact and power the iPhone on while you're working on it.

See my comment at the end of the procedure. If you work carefully, you need not remove the logic board and can skip ahead to step 38 after completing this step (disconnecting battery).

Mark Cousins - Reply

Image 1/1: Three 1.3 mm screws
  • Remove the following Phillips screws:

    • Three 1.3 mm screws

    • One 1.6 mm screw

    • One 3.0 mm screw

      • During reassembly, it's critical to place this 3.0 mm screw in the top-right corner of the bracket. Placing it anywhere else may damage the logic board.

I really don't see value in removing screen use box and rubber band keep at 90 degrees.

John Parker - Reply

I leave screen on as well for this. - Tho I prefer a 45 degree lean.

Thor -

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the display cable bracket.

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Image 1/2: Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector. Image 2/2: Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.
  • Be careful to only pry up on the connector itself and not the socket on the logic board.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

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Image 1/2: When reconnecting the digitizer cable, '''do not press the center of the connector'''. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage. Image 2/2: When reconnecting the digitizer cable, '''do not press the center of the connector'''. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

  • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the display data cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

How much is this to replace?

Alistair knight - Reply

And where could I buy from?

Alistair knight - Reply

Image 1/2: During reassembly, pause here if you wish to [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+Display+Adhesive+Replacement/93983|replace the adhesive around the edges of the display|new_window=true]. Image 2/2: During reassembly, pause here if you wish to [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+Display+Adhesive+Replacement/93983|replace the adhesive around the edges of the display|new_window=true].

You need to clarify where exactly these "adhesive strips around the display" are, what they look like, and where to purchase new ones from.

Anthony - Reply

You can see what they look like in this blog post. Hopefully we'll have replacement adhesive strips available in the future, but right now I don't know of any suppliers. Your phone will work fine without replacing the adhesive—if I had to guess, I'd say it's there as a little extra insurance against display wobble now that 3D Touch has users pushing harder on their phones.

Jeff Suovanen -

We now have a detailed guide for replacing the adhesive strips, and we should have them in stock soon. The guide has been updated to reflect this.

Jeff Suovanen -

Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Peel up any tape covering the iSight camera bracket screws.

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Image 1/1: One 1.9 mm screw
  • Remove the following Phillips screws over the camera bracket:

    • One 1.9 mm screw

    • One 2.4 mm screw

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the iSight camera bracket.

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Image 1/2: Be sure to pry up ''only'' the connector and not the socket on the logic board. Image 2/2: Be sure to pry up ''only'' the connector and not the socket on the logic board.
  • Disconnect the iSight camera connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure to pry up only the connector and not the socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Gently pry the camera out from its housing. Image 2/2: Gently pry the camera out from its housing.
  • Insert the flat end of the spudger between the iSight camera and rear casing.

  • Gently pry the camera out from its housing.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the iSight camera.

Hi ,

Thanks a lot for your tutorial !

Can you explain how can we change the lens of the camera ?

Thanks ;)

rocofolie - Reply

Image 1/2: Press to eject the SIM tray. Image 2/2: Press to eject the SIM tray.
  • Insert a SIM eject tool into the hole in the SIM tray.

  • Press to eject the SIM tray.

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Image 1/1: When reinserting the SIM tray, be sure to orient the tray such that the SIM eject hole is on the bottom.
  • Remove the SIM tray.

  • When reinserting the SIM tray, be sure to orient the tray such that the SIM eject hole is on the bottom.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the single 1.4 mm Phillips screw holding the NFC bracket in place.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the NFC bracket.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 2.7 mm Phillips screws securing the audio control cable bracket to the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the audio control cable bracket.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Disconnect the audio control cable by prying its connector straight up from its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Disconnect the cellular antenna cable by prying its connector straight up from its respective socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Disconnect the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable by prying its connector up from the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Disconnect the power button flex cable from its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Disconnect the Lightning connector interconnect antenna cable by prying it up from the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Lightning connector flex cable from the logic board.

From here you can skip ahead to step 50.

Mark Cousins - Reply

Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Deroute the antenna cable from the two clips on the right edge of the logic board.

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Image 1/2: One 1.3 mm Phillips screw Image 2/2: One 2.6 mm Phillips screw
  • Remove the following screws:

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.2 mm Phillips standoff screw

      • Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove this standoff screw.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the bracket.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Deroute the upper left cellular antenna cable from the first logic board clip by nudging it out from under the clip, towards the battery.

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Image 1/3: Use the pointed tip of a spudger to gently pry the cellular antenna cable from the middle logic board clip. Image 2/3: Do not pull the cable out of the center clip, as it will tear easily. Image 3/3: In order for the cable to reach its socket on the logic board, you must route it above the logic board and underneath the audio control flex cable, as shown in the first photo.
  • Continue derouting the cellular antenna cable from the second and third logic board clips.

  • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to gently pry the cellular antenna cable from the middle logic board clip.

    • Do not pull the cable out of the center clip, as it will tear easily.

  • In order for the cable to reach its socket on the logic board, you must route it above the logic board and underneath the audio control flex cable, as shown in the first photo.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the final 2.0 mm Phillips screw directly below the SIM card reader.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Carefully raise—but do not remove—the logic board, lifting it from the bottom edge nearest the Lightning connector.

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Image 1/3: Do not attempt to fully remove the logic board yet, as the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna is still connected to the underside of the board. Image 2/3: Do not attempt to fully remove the logic board yet, as the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna is still connected to the underside of the board. Image 3/3: Do not attempt to fully remove the logic board yet, as the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna is still connected to the underside of the board.
  • Tip the logic board up to a vertical position to expose the single antenna connector on the underside, near the top edge of the board.

  • Do not attempt to fully remove the logic board yet, as the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna is still connected to the underside of the board.

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Image 1/2: Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna cable from its socket on the back of the logic board. Image 2/2: Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna cable from its socket on the back of the logic board.
  • Gently lay the logic board upside-down, with the top portion resting against the rear case of the iPhone.

  • Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna cable from its socket on the back of the logic board.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the logic board.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the Lightning connector flex cable off the speaker.

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Image 1/2: Two 3.5 mm screws Image 2/2: One 2.7 mm screw
  • Remove the following three Phillips screws from the Taptic Engine cable bracket:

    • Two 3.5 mm screws

    • One 2.7 mm screw

  • Remove the bracket.

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Image 1/1: Two 2.7 mm screws
  • Remove the five Phillips screws securing the speaker to the rear case:

    • Two 2.7 mm screws

    • One 2.5 mm screw

    • One 1.5 mm screw

    • One 1.7 mm screw

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Image 1/3: If the white water damage indicator sticker makes it difficult to deroute the antenna cable, gently peel the sticker back for better access. Image 2/3: If the white water damage indicator sticker makes it difficult to deroute the antenna cable, gently peel the sticker back for better access. Image 3/3: If the white water damage indicator sticker makes it difficult to deroute the antenna cable, gently peel the sticker back for better access.
  • Deroute the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable from its rubber sleeve.

    • If the white water damage indicator sticker makes it difficult to deroute the antenna cable, gently peel the sticker back for better access.

This step isn't necessary. You can leave this cable in place.

Mark Cousins - Reply

yes totally unnecessary to remove this or the board at all.

Smartfone NI - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use a pair of tweezers to disconnect the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable from the Lightning connector flex cable.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the final 2.6 mm Phillips screw securing the speaker to the rear case.

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Image 1/3: Remove the speaker assembly. Image 2/3: Remove the speaker assembly. Image 3/3: Remove the speaker assembly.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the speaker assembly out of its housing.

  • Remove the speaker assembly.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable from the lower flex cable.

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Image 1/1: One 3.1 mm Phillips screw
  • Remove the following screws holding the Taptic Engine in place:

    • One 3.1 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.1 mm Phillips screw

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the Taptic Engine.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Peel back the tape over the screw securing the Lightning connector flex cable to the lip of the phone.

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Image 1/2: One 2.9 mm screw Image 2/2: One 1.9 mm screw
  • Remove the following five Phillips screws:

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 1.9 mm screw

    • One 1.5 mm screw

    • One 1.6 mm screw

    • One 1.3 mm screw set into the edge of the rear case

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Image 1/1: Wait about a minute for the adhesive to soften before removing the iOpener and continuing.
  • Prepare an iOpener and lay it across the bottom of the phone to soften the adhesive holding the Lightning connector flex cable in place.

  • Wait about a minute for the adhesive to soften before removing the iOpener and continuing.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Insert an opening pick between the flex cable's upper right grounding bracket and the rear case to begin separating the two.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Slowly, apply constant pressure to push the pick along underneath the flex cable, breaking up the adhesive holding it in place.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Continue sliding the opening pick underneath the flex cable.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to nudge the 3.5 mm headphone jack from its housing in the rear case.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use an opening pick to pry the left microphone off the edge of the rear case.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Repeat the previous step for the lower right microphone.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the Lightning connector flex cable.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

38 other people completed this guide.

Evan Noronha

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9 Comments

This is a good guide but I think pulling out the logic board is unnecessary. You can pull out the speaker and lightning connector assembly without removing the logic board. Will save you a ton of time and screws that need to be removed.

Chris Randall - Reply

Hardest thing I have every done!! But well worth it. Now I know I need to go up on my labor price!!! :-) Thanks a ton from South Carolina!!

apriltanner1975 - Reply

Agreed with Chris, logic board removal is absolutely unnecessary. Just rest the speaker assembly on the logic board

grze - Reply

Chris is right. I didn't even touch the logic board and did everything successfully. Just do steps 1-21 and then 50 till the end. Just be super careful with the speaker as the antenna is still connected and can break easily. You will not remove the speaker completely from the phone.

markrodhumm - Reply

A third +1 for Chris's comment: pulling out the logic board is completely unnecessary. In fact, if you are inexperienced with repairing small electronics, I highly advise against removing (or even touching) the logic board, as it is certainly the most expensive part, and among the most easily damaged

Talon - Reply

Just did this. Agree with everyone else, just flip the speaker over to get to the lightning connector assembly. Changes the repair time drastically

ztune - Reply

I just completed this repair, replacing the Headphone Jack/Lightening port, battery and iSight camera all at the same time. I removed everything as it explained in the guide, but can totally see how not removing the logic board would save time and isn't 100% necessary. I imagine that peeling the upper portion of the headphone/lighting port is slightly easier with the logic board removed, and you don't have to worry about that antenna cable. If I did it again, I would probably still remove the logic board.

Michael Cornforth - Reply

you would have to be crazy to remove the board. just flip the speaker up on its back and rest against logic board. 20 mins should complete this . i cant stress enough that board or camera does not need removed . PERIOD

Smartfone NI - Reply

I completed this and it starts charging, but the home button stop working. It still sense my finger print, but it does not respond when i click on it.

Any help?

Poh Chun Hou - Reply

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