Introduction

Use this guide to bring life back to your iPhone 6s with a new battery. For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery by first draining it below 10%, then charging it uninterrupted to 100%.

This guide instructs you to detach the front panel assembly; this is intended to prevent damage to the display cables. If you feel comfortable supporting the display carefully while peeling the battery out of the iPhone, you can skip the display removal and go directly to the battery removal steps.

You can also use this guide to replace the battery connector bracket.

Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector.

Hi, just got the repair kit that came with IPhone 6S battery. I felt that there’s no explanation on which tool to use to remove the two 3.4mm P2 Pentalobe screws. It’s not helpful just to say “Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector. “. It’s more important to explain how and what tool to use. The repair tool kit tools were not marked at all and it’s not right to assume that people know which tool or part to use. Please kindly address this issue. Thanks. Janet

Janet Monaghen - Reply

@beingchen For the P2 pentalobe screws you should use the driver bit marked P2. Might be a little hard to see but it’s there, etched into the side of the bit.

Jeff Suovanen -

It’s very clear which tool you need. As it says these are “3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws” - so you need a 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screwdriver…

alexanderbrix1987 - Reply

Just a P2 driver—3.4 mm is the length of the screw.

Jeff Suovanen -

If you can’t identify which screwdriver in the kit to use, you probably shouldn’t be working on your phone. Just sayin’

Keith Hockenbeck - Reply

Opening the display on the 6s separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.
  • Opening the display on the 6s separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.

  • Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.

    • Take care not to place the suction cup over the home button.

Hello, I was wondering if there was a guide of how to replace the adhesive strips, thank you

Pablo Reyes - Reply

The suction cup will not work if you have a shattered screen. I put a tip of an exacto knife between the glass and side frame above the power connector, carefully pried up then used the spluger to pry the rest of the way up.

johnmurphyjr - Reply

Tape will work as well in order to create a smooth surface

Nick Stine -

Even tape didn’t work on my first shattered screen 6S disassembly. Had to reset to the exacto/thin blade technique.

Peter Bovey - Reply

For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.

Frank Terence - Reply

Can you use the iSclack opener to open the iPhone 6s?

Joe Koffee - Reply

The iSclack is helpful, although you have to use it a bit differently than you would on, say, a 5s or 6. The iSclack alone isn’t strong enough to pop the display open, because of all the adhesive around the perimeter of the 6s display. But you can use it to lift the display just enough to get a tool in there and start cutting the adhesive. Basically, the iSclack does the same job as the suction cup shown here, with maybe a bit less fuss.

Jeff Suovanen -

My screen was SUPER shattered… the hair dryer did the trick. Patience it definitely the key… I tried putting tape over the glass but the suction cup wouldn’t stick to it at all but it stuck to the broken glass for a few seconds. I taped it up when I was finally able to move onto the next steps to keep the glass from getting everywhere then peeled it off for Step 10.

Mandy Ng - Reply

Hi, it looks like, from reading the comments, that separating the display assembly from the phone is a tricky step.

Would the piece of equipment, in the link below, be any use at this stage? Seems it could be used for all makes and models.

Any info would be appreciated.

https://youtu.be/8it4o9tx8tQ

Michael Magor - Reply

I have a screen protector on my phone. I was wondering if it was going to be problem for the suction cup.

jeffreyleung2002 - Reply

  • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices and is held down with adhesive.

  • Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

  • If you have any trouble, heat the front of the iPhone using an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun until it's slightly too hot to touch. This will help soften the adhesive securing the edges of the display.

No, really. Do this on a table and use less strength than you think. If you open the display the whole way at this step you can easily rip the home button connections and one of several display connections at the top. <— too much experience... :(

chuymatt - Reply

Wow, that was tough. Patience, patience, patience. Did not use the iOpener, just firm and consistent pulling with the phone on a flat surface. When the suction cup comes off... clean the display surface and go back at it. I did use the pointed end of a spudger inserted into the headphone jack to hold down the bottom case whilst I pulled on the suction cup. Once there was sufficient room (see next step) you can just get the spudger (flat end) to slide in slightly.

plisi - Reply

If you're lifting up on the glass, how are you supposed to hold the rest of the phone down? Is it by holding the camera end down with the side of your hand and rotating your hand, or using your other hand (not pictured) on the edges (seems very difficult), or using a spudger in a jack?

Bryan - Reply

On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

scentaur - Reply

My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

Heidi Moser - Reply

Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

amylofton - Reply

What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

Jaredrett - Reply

hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

David Althaus - Reply

Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!

Goodluck!!

-J

Jaredrett - Reply

The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

Jeff - Reply

Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

Todd Leach - Reply

Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

Mary Blocher - Reply

Much easier to do using the Spudger that is provided in the Pro Tool Kit. It has a thinner fin type head. The Spudger provided in this repair kit is definitely too thick and makes it far more difficult.

Tyler Brady - Reply

The spudger is too thick and the glue is too strong. Pulling up broke the glass below the power button. Now I am out $200 for a repair, plus a battery. Bummer. I am VERY good at repairing things. The adhesive on this is very very strong. The pentalobe tip that they send with the kits not milled well and I had to take a file and flatten the tip to get it to work - it is not finished well at all. I used the kit for the iPhone 6 for my Mom and had no problem. I am 51 and have been fixing things since I was very young.

greghabiby - Reply

Well, I shattered my screen trying to do this. So now I need a battery and screen repair. Not happy.

Carolann Parran - Reply

Me too! Be gentle!

Matthew Simoenau -

Removing the display was the hardest part of the whole job. The adhesive is very strong, but just be patient. What I ended up doing was to use the suction cup, the flat end of the spudger, and an iFixit opening tool. I used the suction cup on the screen as directed. Then I placed the flat end of the spudger just a bit into the charging port and held down the phone body by the spudger on my work mat. I pulled up on the suction cup, pushed down on the spudger, and inserted the thin iFixit opening tool in the small seperation. I took my time and worked my way around all of the edges. After that it was really easy. I was able to reuse the adhesive, and my new battery install went just as planned.

Eric Olson - Reply

Use a hair dryer as per the suggestions and this will definitely make the job easier and reducing the risk of breaking the display . Keep a steady pull of the display, don’t rush and it will start to show the small separation gap. An issue is that it will go back in place if you stop pulling before you can use the spudger tool. The suction tool that came with my repair kit did not have a ring on it as per the guide picture. It has a blue handle that is open on the side. I sat at my kitchen desk and opened a drawer. I hooked the open edge of the suction handle around the drawer side edge which me a third hand. I held the phone with one hand and pulled it away from the desk drawer. Once the separation started I could use my other hand with the flat edge of the spudger to complete the separation. Hope this helps.

emaneht - Reply

Hair dryer - 1 minute until it’s hot like a fresh mug of coffee. Then as soon as you see the smallest gap, insert a razor blade above the phones jack, I needed to slide it towards the charge port and back. Once it slips in keep it there and use your spudger to enlarge the gap and slide it along the corners.

Steve Esson - Reply

  • There is a notch on the underside of the display, just above the headphone jack. This is the safest place to begin prying the phone open.

  • Place the flat edge of a spudger into the gap between the screen and rear case, directly above the headphone jack.

WARNING: easy to stretch/ruin the adhesive

As you proceed, know that you must keep ALL of the adhesive stuck to the phone. If any stays stuck to display, it can become permanently stretched as you are prying and lifting. Then you’ll need to buy the replacement adhesive, once it’s back in stock!

Jason - Reply

If you’re opening the phone at all, you’re compromising the adhesive. There is absolutely no way to somehow open it perfectly so you can re-use it. Fortunately, it’s cheap and fairly easy to replace—and not even that critical on the 6s series anyway, since it’s not doing any real waterproofing.

Jeff Suovanen -

  • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel assembly and the rest of the phone.

No need to turn the spudger full 90°. Just turn it a little.

Martin Born - Reply

  • Insert the flat end of the spudger on the left side of the phone, between the display assembly and rear case.

  • Slide the spudger up the side of the phone to separate the adhesive and pop the clips free.

I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.

Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.

Martin Born - Reply

Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.

Bryan Solo -

Do not go into the top left corner too far your screen will crack i learned the hard way

Kevin - Reply

  • Remove the spudger and reinsert it on the bottom edge, where you pried the phone open.

  • Slide the spudger to the right, along the bottom edge of the phone.

Add Comment

  • Slide the spudger up the right side to continue separating the adhesive and popping the display clips free from the iPhone.

Add Comment

  • Use the suction cup to open the display, breaking the last of the adhesive.

  • Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.

Prop it up on something

Nick Stine - Reply

an old iPhone box and a rubber band lightly around the display works great to hold it at 90

Christa - Reply

  • Pull up on the nub on the top side of the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

Add Comment

  • Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

Smart idea :)

x226 - Reply

on the third picture, the screen is opened more than 90 degrees.

Mirza Zohaib - Reply

It said about 90 degrees

Nick Stine -

In the second picture I was originally wondering what that diagonal piece of material was. Now that I've done a repair I can say that it's the sticky adhesive around the edge of the phone lifting up with the screen.

jonl - Reply

  • Remove two Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket, of the following lengths:

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 2.2 mm screw

  • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

In order to put the correct screw back where you took it out mark the head surface and a small dot beside the hole with a pen. Use coloured pens if you want the exact location for each screw/hole. This goes for steps 17, (23) and 29 too.

lionno1 - Reply

  • Remove the battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

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  • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Be sure not to skip this step. It is crucial. I have had many repairs where the screen will not light up after the repair if the battery had not been disconnected and reconnected.

Andrew spoelstra - Reply

Thanks for the tip, Andrew.

William Turner -

It should also be mentioned, DO NOT USE A METAL SPUDGER. You could short the battery to other nearby metal parts. I've done that, the battery clip arced to the metal cover on some of the logic board chips, and my phone wouldn't power back on for 3 days. They should put a caution caption on this step. I've had this happen on a 5S as well.

Frank - Reply

Thanks for the tip, Frank.

William Turner -

SERIOUS WARNING!: During *reassembly*, you should NOT reconnect the battery connector until the VERY LAST step (upon reassembly!), as many people, including myself, apparently have smoked (burned, destroyed) the main Logic board. This happens when you reconnect the LCD/digitizer assembly FPC cable. ifixit should modify this instruction to be very explicit about this!

enoughstatic - Reply

  • Push the battery connector away from the logic board until it stays separated from its socket, so as to avoid any accidental connection to the battery while you work.

If you remove the grey bar with the word “TAPTIC” next, removal of the battery adhesive is much easier. It can be pulled straighter back with less chance of tearing. Here’s an image with the securing screws identified.

If you securely anchor the screen to a can of soup, it is not necessary complete step 16 Front Panel Assembly. I was able to remove the two bottom (1.2 mm) screws and the 2.8 mm screw, but could not get the upper (1.2 mm) screw. I was able to remove the old battery with the Front Panel Assembly left in place.

Edward Dziuk - Reply

Hi what it is called black cover between battery connector and sim card tray? Thanks

Rajendra - Reply

  • Remove the following four Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.8 mm screw

Thank you for this great guide!

I was able to skip removing the display assembly and logic board steps and lay the speaker upside down on the bottom edge of the logic board without putting undue pressure on the antenna cable making this a much easier and quicker repair for me. If you choose to leave the display assembly connected, I recommend using a rubber band to hold it to a box of similar size at a 90 degree angle to prevent damage and stress to the attached cables.

So, the steps I skipped were Steps 16 through 34 and Steps 37 through 45.

scentaur - Reply

The 1.2mm screw in the top left corner is refusing to come out, any help?

Harry Allinson - Reply

why does the battery fix kit not include the #00 bit needed to unscrew all 3 1.2mm screws?!?! !#^&@@ off.

robertdjclark - Reply

Either a #00 or a #000 bit should work fine here. Some #0 bits will also work if the point is fine enough. Same goes for a lot of JIS bits. As long as it doesn't strip or slip, you're good.

Jeff Suovanen -

My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.

David Shaddock - Reply

The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?

anujfolsom - Reply

I actually followed all the guide but isn’t the front panel disassembly skippable? And if so what are the benefits of removing it? Cause i had quite a hard time putting back in the connectors of the 3 flex cables.

GiovanniB - Reply

I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.

Anyone have the same issue?

Evander Lorenz - Reply

A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. Don’t expect the cheap drivers with kits to last more than one disassembly-assembly, if that! Also don’t keep mangled bits or drivers…throw them out!!!

Peter Bovey - Reply

what crews  should I use in this step PH000. OR Y000 OR P2 Plz help me

mshary alzhrany - Reply

The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws! I had to remove it without removing the display.

Matthias Wagner - Reply

I too experienced a problem with the size of the screwdriver here (supplied in the iFixit kit.) My phone also had a 5th screw right in the center of the plate - another 1.2mm. I removed and replace it without problems.

Scott Young - Reply

@scottvyoung Sounds like you’re working on an iPhone 6. These instructions are for the 6s.

Jeff Suovanen -

Screws are very small and very difficult to put back in!! Lost 2-3 screws

Put phone back together and of course doesnt work Waste of Money!

Thomas Kintigh - Reply

I purchased a “screw set” for an i-Phone 5 and have slowly been cannibalizing it whenever I lose a screw. It has been invaluable and the set includes enough screws that I have been able to cover all that have been dropped and lost for 3 i-Phones now. Using a magnetic mat has also limited my screw loss considerably! All of these items were purchased through IFIXIT at very reasonable cost. Thank you IFIXIT!

Peter Bovey -

The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit. (disappointing) So, I used scentar’s (comment above) method of a large rubber band wrapped around a book weighted kit box to hold it at 90 degrees. Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery.

laffinbuz - Reply

I had a problem reassembling the iPhone, my touchId wasn’t working any more even if the home button was working correctly. I don’t know why but loosening these 4 screw a bit made it work again. If I tight them again it doesn’t work. Maybe this can help someone.

Alex Mufatti - Reply

  • Remove the display cable bracket.

Add Comment

  • Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the front camera flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

Note carefully the order that they are removed.  My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence.  Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order.  After that they popped right into place.  The new cables don’t have the “fold” yet so display had to be held at 90 degrees until all three were installed and the cover reattached.

David Rogers - Reply

I pop up these screen connectors using my fingernail. After doing a lot of repairs, this is the easiest and fastest way to get them loose.

Kenneth Hilstan - Reply

  • Disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

  • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Recolor that "pinned" note about not pushing on the center in "RED" if you get a chance. Just sayin'.

William Turner - Reply

Good call. Thanks for the tip!

Evan Noronha -

I can't seem to get the digitizer cable to snap back into place. Any suggestions?

gbmazur - Reply

Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order. I had to remove the EMI shield (seven screws), and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble! The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one. When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it.

David Shaddock - Reply

  • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

  • Disconnect the display cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on.

Bailey Duncan - Reply

There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process, at least on my phone. The replacement screen also had 4, so no problem.

Scott Young - Reply

I am having a hard time reattaching the LCD cable. Is it possible I bent the connectors? Or possibly the gaskets around it are interfering? I’d like to just pull all of that waterproofing gasket off! >:(

Amanda Cooper (Doula) - Reply

Did you end up going this? My screen is black so I'm trying to figure out what i did

Alex Tanner -

I neglected to detach the battery before taking this step and upon reassembly I have no display. What might be my next step to repair.

Dennis Gagomiros - Reply

You can try reseating the cables, but the likely answer is that your logic board’s backlight circuit is blown. If you power on your phone and you can see an image on the display by shining a bright light on it, your backlight circuit is toast. This is a common repair and very fixable, but requires microsoldering equipment and expertise. It’s not a DIY.

Jeff Suovanen -

I made the same mistake and I'm wondering if you got a fix for it? Is the damage done on the screen assembly or phone itself?

goesprotocall -

My screen replacement only comes with two flex cables but all of the videos are showing three. It is not working to connect the flex cables to the connectors

cellabella1 - Reply

The third flex cable would be for the front-facing camera, sensors, etc. If you bought a display that doesn’t include those components, you’ll need to transfer them to your new display first, and then you’ll be able to install it and plug everything in. The instructions are over here. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive. The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive.

cdinger - Reply

There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work.

Ira Goldman - Reply

Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned.

Ira Goldman - Reply

Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board.

Bryan Solo - Reply

My replacement display was not functional, but I didn’t test it until after my adhesive was already applied. Might be worth double-checking the replacement screen works before applying the adhesive at all. (though I’m glad I tried it before closing it up!)

Ben - Reply

When reconnecting to the logic board, reverse the order, so display first, then digitizer and finally camera. The front pannel slides into small edge of the backchannel. So start at the top when you put front and back together.

Joep Willemsen - Reply

be sure battery is disconnected before reassembling the display —in case you reconnected it to position battery

Christa - Reply

  • Use tweezers to peel back the tips of the two adhesive strips along the bottom edge of the battery.

    • Use your fingers or blunt tweezers. Be careful when working near the battery; puncturing a lithium-ion battery can release dangerous chemicals and/or cause a fire.

  • Optionally, you may wish to remove the Taptic Engine at this time. It's very easy to remove and will allow better access to the adhesive strips.

Remove the Taptic Engine. It's just 2 screws and this way you have a way better angle to remove the adhesive strips.

Derek - Reply

Read step 23 before performing 24, to understand how important it is not to tear the white adhesive bits, and how to pull it gently.

Manu - Reply

I agree with removing the Taptic Engine first, before pulling on the adhesive strips. It really, really helped. As long as your iPhone6s Taptic Engine looks like the one in the picture ( wide, and almost width of the battery. Mine also had black tape over it too, for some reason). This wide Taptic Engine only has the two screws to remove - no power connector cable! ( it uses contact pins on the underside to power the Taptic Engine ).

Brett - Reply

Removing Taptic Engine is defenitly a recommendation, easy to do, and prevents damage to it during strip removal. Placing the phone 5 minutes in front of blowing laptop heatsink makes it also easier.

Joep Willemsen - Reply

  • Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

  • Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

    • To avoid tearing the adhesive strip, be careful not to snag it against the battery or lower components.

    • Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.

    • The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.

Think of it as pulling off a 3M Command (tm) strip. Slow and steady.

Thomas Benson - Reply

removing the taptic engine makes this step a lot easier, and give you a better angle to pull the tape.

kym thomas - Reply

I agree with removing the Taptic Engine first, before pulling on the adhesive strips. It really, really helped. As long as your iPhone6s Taptic Engine looks like the one in the picture ( wide, and almost width of the battery. Mine also had black tape over it too, for some reason). This wide Taptic Engine only has the two screws to remove - no power connector cable! ( it uses contact pins on the underside to power the Taptic Engine ).

Brett - Reply

You may find removing the taptic engine helpful if one adhesive strips breaks as well, you can sometimes get hold of the remaining adhesive to start pulling again with tweezers.

Dwayn Draper - Reply

Jeez luckily i stumbled upon you guys saying about removing the taptic engine, was sweating for a minute. after removing the taptic engine i use tweezers to pull a bit out and use my fingers to pull it out. the rest is history :) thanks guys

Evan Chao - Reply

Both of my strips broke, I can’t get the battery out.

Johnson Vue - Reply

Both of mine broke as well. Make sure that TAPIT thing is out, then use the blue pry bar to pry the old battery up. Pretty soon you’ll be able to reach the tweezers under there and grab a strip. It’s pretty amazing. Once the strip starts pulling away, the whole thing zzzzips out in one piece

Burgess Allison - Reply

The absolute most difficult part. The two bands broke so I had to use the spudger and some isopropyl alcohol to pry the old battery up. It was very contorted and possibly leaking when i set it aside. Be very patient on this step!!

skrolikowski - Reply

  • Repeat for the second strip.

    • Hold down the battery as you remove the second strip, or the strip may fling the battery when it separates from the case.

  • If you removed both adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.

  • If either of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, continue with the next step below.

If you successfully remove all of the inside adhesive strip and snapped the outside adhesive then an alternative to step 25 is to start the removal from the inside edge of the battery.

Using the pointy end of the spludger, gently place it between the battery and main board and pry it up along the edge, it will lift easily as there no adhesive on this side.

As you lift it up you will then see the adhesive and you use the flat edge of sludger to break the adhesive off the phone.

Work slowly along the entire length of adhesive, back and forth until it comes away easily.

The battery will bend in the middle along the 2 cells so don't force it without breaking the adhesive as indicated in previous step.

john racovelli - Reply

  • If you successfully removed both adhesive strips, move on to the next step. Otherwise, you will need to pry the battery from the rear case.

  • Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the back of the rear case, directly over the battery. Alternatively, you can apply heat using a heat gun or hair dryer.

  • After about a minute, flip the phone over and use a plastic card to break up any remaining adhesive behind the battery.

    • Do not insert your card in the area between the volume down (-) button and the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the volume control cable lying underneath.

    • Do not pry against the logic board or you may damage the phone.

    • Keep the card as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals or catch fire. Do not use any sharp tools to pry at the battery.

  • Alternatively, a piece of dental floss may be used to separate the battery from the rear case. A stronger alternative to dental floss is an unwound guitar string, such as a 0.009 E string from a 12-string set.

  • Thread the floss or string behind the upper battery corners, bring the ends together, wrap them around a folded cloth, and pull evenly.

You can also just use small screwdrivers to touch the adhesive after it breaks and then start rotating it around to get it to come out

Geoff Potts - Reply

BE SUPER CAREFUL. I just broke the volume up/down buttons and mute switch. Look at the photo on Step 26. Underneath the battery there is a tiny black ribbon cable. Doing step 25 wrong will rip that ribbon cable apart. Make sure you insert the card BELOW the volume up/down buttons!!!

henryhsu - Reply

Definitely agree with you, that photo is showing the wrong place to insert the card, right over the volume switch and ribbon cable. The card should be inserted as close the bottom of the battery as possible.

john racovelli - Reply

Zahnseide ist eine sehr sehr gute Idee, hat einwandfrei funktioniert.

Dental floss is a very very nice way to remove the battery :)

maiksicks - Reply

I recommend removing the Taptic Engine as described in step 23 comments. It was enough to allow me access to the second strip after it ripped.

knoxma - Reply

I used a newer model heating pad instead of buying an iOpener - mainly because I had it laying around. I’ve used it successfully on two iphone battery swaps. Newer heating pads are well temperature controlled, and even the hottest setting isn’t that hot.

Howard Capon - Reply

For french user : the best option to remove the adhesive if you broke up, is to use an ID card.

Pour les français : la meilleur option pour décoller l’adhésif si vous l’avez casser a l’étape précédente est d’utiliser une carte d’identité, car assez fine et souple pour ne pas abimer le le téléphone ou la batterie.

viriisxp - Reply

  • Remove the battery.

  • If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove the sleeve before installation by pulling it away from the the ribbon cable.

  • When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips.

  • Perform a forced restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

When installing the new battery, before attaching the adhesive, first do a test fit. Note the best position so that the battery connector lands squarely on the phone socket. If you install the battery too high, you may have excess connector cable that you’ll have to creatively fold up and jam beside the battery.

jonathanstotts - Reply

ABSOLUTELY TEST FIT!!!!!!….I found that compared to the OEM battery, the the replacement battery connector is a bit longer and doesn’t seat easily in the socket without shifting the replacement battery as far LEFT as possible. I had to remove the replacement battery. It was extremely difficult and the replacement battery was flexed and started bulging so I disposed of it. I put the old one back successfully so waiting for another battery to arrive.

Joel Nuss - Reply

I can’t seem to get the connector on the new battery to click into place. I had to work a bit to align, as mentioned here, but it seems to be in the right place now. Just won’t ‘click’ and when I tried to use the cover to hold it, the connection is not stable. Any similar issues?

Bill B - Reply

The earlier 6s MUST HAVE the 616-00033. I have had this happen too often. People bring in their 00036 and they do not fit.

bill - Reply

Seriously these adhesive strips should have come with the battery!!! I have the dam phone apart on my desk and now have to wait for the adhesive!!

hlh212 - Reply

I bought a display assembly kit and a battery. I didn’t realize the adhsive slips are needed but not included with stand alone battery.

RATS.

Now I’m phone less till the strips arrive.

Options for batteries should be

1) full kit, battery, tools and adhesive strips

2) battery and adhesive strips or

3) just battery.

Or or at least ask, “hey, you want strips with that battery?”

Patrick Egan - Reply

I messed up on the adhesive strips and I have to wait for the new ones to come. I assembled it without adhesive and the battery doesn’t seem to move in the housing at all after everything is installed. I’m almost thinking that the adhesive was an over kill?

Kanchana Samarasekera - Reply

I ordered the full kit, which came with the strips for under battery, as well as a replacement adhesive for the device’s perimeter. Great guide, installation went very smoothly!

Both adhesive items should come with directions, for those not as savvy. I didn’t have trouble but it definitely isn’t clear. Instructions really should be included.

Dan Knight - Reply

There are detailed instructions linked in the guide for both of those things! Glad you figured it out though. :)

Jeff Suovanen -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery: Drain battery below 10%, then charge uninterrupted to 100%.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

611 other people completed this guide.

Evan Noronha

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Easy fix. I would recommend getting the adhesive for the screen, as I completely destroyed about half of it when I removed the screen.

cziebell937 - Reply

the adhesive strip under the battery do not use your hand to pull out, use tweezer and a stick roll it up slowly.......

luke foxy - Reply

So Apple has this great battery replacement program, I put in my S/N and found out my phone was eligible! Great right? Except I live about 290 miles from the nearest Apple Store, and there was an authorized repair shop that was about an hour away. I called them up, found out Apple had a shortfall of inventory and that I'd have to be added to a list as the batteries would come in. A couple weeks later I get a call and find that I'd have to leave my phone there for half a day and the phone would be wiped. Rather than drive an hour so I could leave my phone there half a day I just ordered the repair kit. When it came in I opened up the phone, rather slowly I might add due to the adhesive. I took my time separating the screen and the adhesive snapped back into the frame. If you truly take your time with it and keep consistent force separating the screen with spudgers slowly and gradually you won't ruin the strips. The rest was a cakewalk, screen went back together flawlessly and you can't tell it was opened.

Mike Jacobs - Reply

Nice. Not completely necessary to remove front screen - but be careful if you do it this way...

goodski - Reply

Pardon my inability to understand but several people have said you don’t have to remove the screen to replace the battery.

How is that possible? How else do you get to the battery?

jayrudin -

I think he means disconnnect

davidvandenbossche -

My advice: take out the taptic engine for better pulling out the adhesive. There are only two more screws. It's worth it.

wenago phone service - Reply

Totally agree with this. Removing the adhesive from underneath the battery was definitely the hardest part.

skrolikowski -

Good instructions, however my screen still broke while I was trying to remove it. Off to the Apple Store I guess. Da**it.

rellimnitsuj - Reply

Nice steps , could you please adding assembly steps with suggestion adhesive strip or any suitable glue.

Mohammed - Reply

The battery replacement is very easy but i seem to always break the adhesive tabs and end up having to either fish it out with tweezers or just using a spudger to get the battery out! Great guide!

Gadget Tech - PDX - Reply

I replaced the battery and now when charging it keeps shutting off. The battery connection seemed awkward. Does the battery connector click in?

Edward Marino - Reply

Yes, and you need to re install the plate with the two screws on top of the connector to keep the plug connected.

James Wachala -

I had the same issue. Could not get it to click and using the cover to hold it resulted in the instability to which you refer. Will try again.

Bill B -

0/2 on removing the adhesive strips (two phones that is). With the last one, I just pried (very carefully) off the entire battery using the flat edge tool. 5 min later no problem. Maybe just skip that step and go straight to prying it with the aid of heat (if desired).

Nathan Dunn - Reply

It takes a while to get the hang of it. I've done this procedure on 30~50 iPhones and have about a 75% success rate.

Evan Noronha -

Good instructions, Nice steps, thank you.

Osman Khalil - Reply

So helpful! saved me having to go to a pricey store!

Megan Lane - Reply

I thought that I need to warn the screen for the 6s before opening

mfq1979 - Reply

I put in the new battery but it just flashes the Apple logo for a couple seconds then goes away and this repeats till it dies, I charge it and the same thing happens. I have tried 3 different batteries and I don't know what else to do

Adam ben - Reply

Mine is the same. Did you figure it out?

wurout -

It might be the logicboard

patrik østeggen -

Very easy fix - takes 20 minutes. Just take care when you put the cables back, they can be a bit hard to "snap" into the board. Changed both battery and screen without any issues.

even.tobiesen - Reply

Great guide, the iOpener really helped in separating the glass and the back: the screen adhesive didn't tear apart at all. All of the tools in the repair kit worked well, applied the adhesive strips correctly on the first (and only) try, and best of all, everything went back together with no spare parts or hardware left over! Original battery had actually begun to bulge and swell slightly compared to the new replacement battery. Glad I did the swap when I did!

janus1970 - Reply

Sucesso, tudo conforme a descrição, Obrigado!

ebaniramelo - Reply

When replacing an iPhone 5 battery I noticed the battery connector has a small rectangle that fits into a rectangular Slot . I only noticed this because I looked at the underside of the connector with a magnifying glass. Does the iPhone 6s have a similar or a rectangular slot.?

Also when I replaced the iPhone 5 battery I did not remove the front. I was careful. It definitely saves time. Maybe I’ll also try with my 6s.

donald lepsch - Reply

Why take out the screen when the battery has absolutely nothing to do with it, nothing connected to it at least …

Hector Andrade - Reply

Because there is no stress on the ribbon cables if you remove the screen. You’ll be moving the phone around trying to remove the adhesive, which would introduce the possibility of damaging the ribbon connectors.

Wade -

Great job. I followed the steps and everything worked great. I found on step 16, removing the front panel, my phone had a 5th screw (model A1549) right in the center of the panel. Also suggest fitting to the battery into the case and aligning the plug before placing the tape strips on the battery. the connector on the battery I received was stretched out and the was way too long. i had to put two small folds in the tab(similar to what was on the original battery) which would have been more difficult if it had been taped to the case. thanks again

Art Spong - Reply

Then you had an iPhone 6, not a 6s.

Sam Mencimer -

This and all the guides in ifixit.com have been so easy to do. I have big sausage fingers but I am able to manage the tiny screws and ribbons. I like it when there are sections that you can skip if possible. It saves so much time and unnecessary teardown when doing many items in a day. Thanks again for making it easier for us.

William - Reply

Step 2 doesn’t make apparent what actually happens the adhesive strip when it “separates”. Before the procedure, I interpreted it to mean the strip could be left in place if I was careful. But after performing the procedure, it became clear to me that it’s impossible to not completely destroy the strip!

Some adhesive stays with the back panel, some stays with the front panel, a lot of it stretches out between the two. And it readily adheres to itself! Leaving it will result in thick lumps of the stuff in bad places, and preventing the phone from firmly closing.

This instruction should be edited to explain that the strip must be removed! I did this by stroking the pointed end of the spudger over it repeatedly until it balled up, then rolling this ball along the remnants of the strip to gather every bit. And it should be made clearer that by “not replacing the adhesive,” it means that the phone should be fine without ANY adhesive strip at all.

Steven Nass - Reply

Instructions is good and detailed. Have the battery successfully exchangeable. But take care! The detachment of the display is very sensitive. The upper right-hand corner of the display has jumped during detachment from the display. Too bad, I was very annoyed about it. I was probably a bit too rough. But just happened. Maybe I will change the display later.

It may be worth using the iSclack. The iSclack I had not. He should work really well and would have prevented what happened to me.

bz_zack - Reply

I agree. I have five times battery change experience. I didn't remove the front panel assembly and my repair done perfectly all.

Takehiro -

after changing battery the frontal camera did not work it gives me black screen why and what i can do?thx

arshlokh - Reply

Try step 19 again and do carefully .

CAUTION: When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Takehiro -

Intermittent or not charging after battery replacement? As others have said, first make sure the battery connector is seated properly. Then make sure that the metal bracket being removed in step 13 is not shorting to the top of the battery connector being disconnected in step 15. Even a tiny bit of metal exposed at the corner of the “battery connector” by accidentally scraping off a bit of the squishy pad on top will lead to unpredictable behavior if it touches the bracket. In my case, the phone would function properly and charge while the case was open on the workbench (ie before finally snapping the display down) but then stopped charging as soon as the case was squeezed tight together for final assembly. I opened it an additional two times before I found a tiny corner of exposed metal on the corner of the battery connector. A generous piece of electrical tape placed between the top of the battery connector and the bottom of the battery connector bracket prevented the short and solved the problem.

richardeburgess - Reply

I have changed both batteries in my two iphone 6s. One functions properly. But the other one has a problem, namely the home button doesn’t function anymore. And I mean the physical button(also touch id doesn’t function properly).

What is the problem with the second phone. I didn’t touch anywhere near the home button.

Bighead - Reply

Everything attached to the display (including the home button) is routed through the cables you disconnected in steps 18-20. You should probably start by re-seating those connectors. If that fails, check the cables, connectors, and sockets for damage and go from there.

Jeff Suovanen -

I followed the instructions and calibrated the new battery but now the phone keeps logging me out when I’m using it for about 1 minute and I need to log in. Is this a software issue and what could have caused it?

Sylvia - Reply

Pardon my inability to understand but several people have said you don’t have to remove the screen to replace the battery.

“Not completely necessary to remove front screen - but be careful if you do it this way...”

“Why take out the screen when the battery has absolutely nothing to do with it, nothing connected to it at least …”

How is that possible? How else do you get to the battery?

jayrudin - Reply

Correct, you have to get the display out of the way to access the battery no matter what. But, you can either open the display and leave it connected to the phone as shown here, or you can go farther and completely disconnect the display cables from the logic board, detach the display, and set it aside while you replace the battery. The first option can save a little time; you just have to use some extra care so as not to damage the display cables.

Jeff Suovanen -

I’ve had trouble with two replacement batteries for my iphone 6s, the connector will not snap into place, so I’ve had to re-install the old

battery with no problem snapping it into place. Anyone else have this problem? Any suggestions?

Linden Holderbein.

Linden Holderbein - Reply

Yes, I’m having the exact same problem. The connector on the new battery just doesn’t seem to fit no matter how much I coax and nudge and push. In an attempt to revert to the original worn out battery I’ve since snapped off the adhesive on the new battery. A visual inspection of the connectors reveals that they aren’t identical.

byron -

Problem identified: I was trying to install and iPhone 6 battery into an iPhone 6s; they aren’t the same connectors.

byron -

I connect new battery terminal first. And two new adhesives put on the case instead of the battery. Finally, Put new battery to correct position on the case and push it.

Takehiro - Reply

If using the display assembly adhesive: Make sure you properly align the display assembly adhesive when putting it on, and really stick it to the metal edges before removing the top cover. That way, if it is properly aligned, you don’t mess it up. Display assembly for this device is not necessary as it did not have water resistance to begin with. The screws and clips do an optimal job of keeping the screen attached to the display.

Erik Johnson - Reply

Great guide and comments. Read the guide twice and then performed the changeout in about 20 minutes. Thank you

Phillip - Reply

It was all pretty simple. I had one side of the battery “command strip” pull out adhesive break 1/4 of the way of pulling it out. Ended up heating it up just a bit to get underneath the battery enough to start twisting it and pulling it out the rest of the way.. I the love then command strip adhesive method! Ended up replacing the screen adhesive too.

jonathan - Reply

I want to get this replacement battery for iphone 6s in Pakistan how??

abdulrehman hamza - Reply

Very carefully followed instructions and while the adhesive removal step isnt quite clear(my old battery bended and crumpled trying to removed and got very, very hot) when I eventually put in place the new battery everything works fine except for listening to a phone call and the forward facing camera. Speaker works and rear camera works but not when I hold the phone to my ear for a call. I have to put a call on speaker to hear anything.

Perhaps I broke a cable in the assembly. I dunno. Not much of a phone when you cant hold it to your ear and make a call.

Albert Dice Man - Reply

Worked flawlessly on two phones, if you are not to clumsy there is no need to remove the display assembly, just prop it up against something and fix it with a rubber band. Removing the adhesive strips from underneath the battery worked 1/4, so keep something ready to heat the thing

Pigeon - Reply

Just finished replacing my battery and the directions are spot on. I did however have difficulty with removing the adhesive. Take it slowly and pull on the strips with a gentle force. I broke mine off and had to go the heating route which took awhile longer. A new adhesive screen gasket and battery adhesive strips came with the battery replacement kit but unlike the new battery adhesive strips I could not find a “how to” on the site for the other adhesive gasket. A link to that would be nice like there was a link to the battery adhesive.

mediayogi - Reply

The adhesive gasket replacement guide you’re looking for is here—it’s linked in Step 21 of this guide. Congrats on a successful repair!

Jeff Suovanen -

After replacing the battery on my Iphone 6 and booting it up, it was at 1%. After charging for 30 mins, it was only at 2%. I removed the charging cable and let the phone die. Tried charging phone again and phone just refreshes white screen with apple logo and then dies (this happens over and over again).

Anyone have the same problem?

Albert Somlith - Reply

@asomlith Could be a defective battery. Try connecting the old battery and test to see if it charges. If that resolves the problem, return/replace the battery you bought. If it doesn’t, it’s possible the logic board was damaged by some wayward prying during the repair. That’s fixable, but will probably require a visit to a specialist (microsoldering/board-level repair expert).

Jeff Suovanen -

Followed the directions… everything went ok, but now that it’s back together my screen has a brighter blotchy area near the top and a slightly dimmer area near the middle. I have a suspicion that I torqued it a little too much trying to get the screen separated from the bottom with the suction cup. Is that possible? If that is, in fact, what I did can I fix it somehow? Thanks in advance!

John Johnson - Reply

Just finished up the replacement and it went really well! The screen took a little force to get off and scared me a little but I eventually got it. I also messed up putting on the adhesive strips and only managed to get a small piece on to keep the battery in place. Works like a brand new phone! Thank you ifixit.

Mitchell Distefano - Reply

Hi there,

I have a iPhone 6s. It was always working perfectly well. The only problem was that the battery didn't last as long as it used to, so I replaced battery. Now, it was extremely slow and when I scrolled trough a document or website, it got stuck all the time. Also opening apps took very long. The lower the battery level got, the slower my phone got. Below 20% it was completely unusable.

Anyone have the same problem?

C E - Reply

Could be the new battery is faulty. Where did you get it from? Did you try swapping the old battery back in to see if that resolves the issues?

Jeff Suovanen -

i have this problem too when i change my battery and i dont know what should i do….when my power around 10-12 precent my phone will very slow and i cant use it do u have any idea?

Hamed Jalali -

This has happened with my battery i got from ifixit in December and it has just started not properly working. I have contacted them for a replacement. I would guess it is faulty.

jonathan -

Similar issue with battery conking out; not charging above 20-23%, then shutting down. Did a careful install with the iFixit replacement for my 6s (on video!). Time to field-test using original battery, no?

Joel Baird - Reply

Might sound stupid but should the clear plastic be removed from the new battery before placement?

Rich foupht - Reply

recently i change my iphone 6s battery but when my power is around 10-12 precent my phone is very slow and i cant use it is it normal our no?

Hamed Jalali - Reply

Yay! This is the second battery replacement I have managed to ace. A long time ago for an iPhone 4 and now for my I phone 6. Relatively easy except the sticky things. Hard to get out as instructed, hard to put the new ones on exactly as there was no clue in the video or written instructions. I managed, It works, I’m happy and so is my phone. I am a 58 year old female..

gloriac916 - Reply

Congrats! You can find instructions for putting on the new stuff linked in the final step by the way. It’s a slightly more generic guide that works for multiple models, so it lives on its own page.

Jeff Suovanen -

purchased 2 batteries (eBay) for 2 phones. 1perfect. Mine crash/reboot cycles. new battery. Worked, but fast drain. Contacted seller, issued refund, replaced original battery. another battery- chose seller with better reviews, paid more. Weird issues similar to first battery. Worked at first, once run down, crashed wouldn’t charge. lots of testing later I realized all 3 of my replacement batteries lack any insulator on top of the metal of the battery connection point. Original battery has insulator. Read that a scratch in that insulating material can cause issues. electrical tape. Now same battery that wouldn’t go past 1% acting totally normal. confusing: if real issue, how do replacements work for anyone lacking the insulator? How could sellers overlook such simple and crucial thing? How did 2nd battery work at all while 2 others were useless? If anyone else receives a battery with exposed metal on top of connection point, may be worth a small strip of electrical tape to guard against weird issues.

Kyle - Reply

My wife’s IPhone 6s took a swim and would not charge. After Googling possible repairs, I found Ifixit and ordered battery replacement kit. Their step by step instructions made the repair easy. Even for a old guy (71 yrs) with shakey hands.

Peter Ferrari - Reply

I will be buying the clacker next time, but my son was finally able to insert a spudger into the slot. Almost lost the second glue strip. Great tools. Great parts.

bradtittle - Reply

Great tutorial overall!! I’ve used the cheaper stuff out there to save a few bucks, but it’s not worth the headache. By far the quality and resources given by iFixit have been great and they will continue be my go-to. - The only thing that I’d suggest for any noob like me, is to take your time with the adhesive strips on the battery itself. Application was tricky and I got sideways real quick. So again, take your time!!

Daniel - Reply

I can’t get my screen back on perfectly. The top of the screen won’t “seat” all the way flush and I don’t want to press too hard because I don’t want to break it! Anyone have a suggestion?

Bob Willix - Reply

Never mind: make sure you put the top in FIRST when you reassemble or it won’t seat right! Thanks!

Bob Willix - Reply

I was having unexpected shutdowns, low battery capacity (79%), and 3D Touch problems and LCD issues from the OEM battery being slightly swollen.

The hardest part of the repair was removing the screen due to the adhesive. Although I really like the adhesive seal because it helps keep the phone dust proof. Definitely plan on replacing it any time you remove the screen.

The rest of the steps were straight forward and easy. The guide was was thorough and extremely helpful! Thank you!

JHughes - Reply

Thank you! Still have yet to test out battery but my iPhone 6s is all put back together and working! saved me some $$$

Gagerminnix - Reply

Awesome tutorial! After finding out that my iPhone 6s’ serial number did not qualify for Apple’s reduced battery replacement price, I decided to give DIY a try. I was nervous at first, but everything went smoothly and my iPhone works great now. The steps are very clear and super helpful. Really glad I found and went with iFixit!

Flo - Reply

worked on 2 phones, studied the materials first, went slow and careful, it all worked out, even the adhesive removal. Took off cover, took out vibe. decent kit, only needed one tool kit, bought 2 b/c I though the soft plastic tools would take a beating like opening an old ipod, nope. Nice kit, nice tips from the community.

csoltani - Reply

Great tools/instructions. However the battery drains about as fast as my old one. Maybe my iphone 6s is just old? Did anyone else have about the same battery performance after replacing?

Michael Shearer - Reply

Great instructions! thanks

Phoebe - Reply

Bought the battery replacement kit for my wife’s 6S. Could not get past step one. Heated it as directed. Still no go. Heated it until could barely touch phone, still no go. Suction cup kept coming free. Absolutley no movement in the screen. No need to go through replacing a battery like this. Just designed so Apple can get more money for a way overpriced phone. Problem is other makes now doing the same. My Pixel 2 is same. My old Galaxy 5 was easy peasy. USB dock crapped out. Not worth the work to fix it.

Darthdaddy July 15, 2018

jkaknes - Reply

Step one is the pentalobe screws—make sure those are out, or it’s never going to budge. If the suction cup is popping off, make sure your screen is spotless—clean it thoroughly with a microfiber cloth, and use a little liquid screen cleaner or distilled water if needed. The suction handle sticks very well when conditions are right. Also, I’d start off with an opening pick rather than a spudger—the pick is thinner and easier to get under the edge of the display. Hope this helps!

Jeff Suovanen -

Just successfully replaced my wife's battery on her iPhone 6s after she was given an 8 week wait for the official warranty repair. Got all ifixit parts in a week and took my time on each step (2 hours). The main tutorial and supplementary ones on applying battery adhesives and screen adhesive were great. I got my finger stuck on screen adhesive strip but made it work ok (maybe order a second one of those!). The phone works as before, so now to how longer it goes between charges.

Edward Gillan - Reply

Great tutorial, anyone who messes this up shouldn’t blame ifixit. They should take a look at their own skills.

gary kowalski - Reply

i followed the instructions step by step. how long does it take for the battery to turn on??

Joe Miles - Reply

Great guide and an easy fix. However the 1.2mm screws in my display assembly would not come out so I skipped that step completely and was able to replace the battery with the display still connected. I do recommend taking the taptic engine out when taking out the adhesive strips. You will also need replacement adhesive strips because they will rip and tear when trying to take them out. Overall, guide was easy and the battery works great!

Savannah Floyd - Reply

Steps 22-24 need to be revised. Any phone old enough to need a battery replacement will have brittle adhesives that will break every time.

Gerald Shaeffer - Reply

Not necessarily true. I get 3 year old 6s’s that have the adhesive come right out. Just did one today in fact.

Sam Mencimer -

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