Introduction

Use this guide to bring life back to your iPhone 6 with a new battery.

This guide instructs you to remove the front panel assembly; this is intended to prevent damage to the display cables. If you feel comfortable supporting the display carefully while peeling the battery out of the iPhone, you can skip the display removal and go directly to the battery removal steps.

For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery: Drain it below 10%, and then charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

You can also use this guide to replace the following parts:

Video Overview

Image 1/1: Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.
  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

When reconnecting be VERY careful not to over tighten. The connectors on the screen that these 3.6mm Pentalobe screws lock with are notorious for breaking off

Blair Tryba - Reply

Before opening the phone, I gently warmed it using a buckwheat heating pad. This made removal of the adhesive strips (steps 20 to 24) easy.

Howard Bales - Reply

Image 1/1: If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone 6.
  • The next three steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 6 that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to Step 5.

  • If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone 6.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

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Image 1/2: Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, just above (but not covering) the home button. Image 2/2: Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.
  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups.

    • Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, just above (but not covering) the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

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Image 1/2: The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the display cables. Image 2/2: Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.
  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the display cables.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 8.

The iSclack opened the iPhone 6 with little effort. I could have given even less opening pressure than I did. Fantastic tool. Worth the investment.

Tim Dougherty - Reply

It's never mentioned anywhere that with iSclack even if you save the cables, glass easily detach from plastic frame. When you ri-assembly the phone, this will involve a glass not perfectly adherent to the body. In my opinion is better if you help yourself with a spudger to lift frame from rear case when you are using the iSclack.

marco bigoni - Reply

Image 1/1: Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.
  • If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

    • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the cup is pressed securely onto the screen to get a tight seal.

This is nearly impossible on a screen that is shattered

Erik Madsen - Reply

Try putting a strip of packing tape on the screen. That will make the surface smooth and help keep the suction.

Joanna - Reply

Image 1/1: Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.
  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

  • Using a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while continuing to pull up with the suction cup.

  • There are several clips holding the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

Pulling up on the suction cup helped get me started, but what worked for me was pulling up gently while sliding the plastic prybar gently along the seam towards the top of the phone (on both sides), and it came open without having to put excess pressure on the suction.

lauren carroll - Reply

Same here, just open the gap a little with the suction cup and then use the opening tool on both sides.

Tobias - Reply

Along with the suction cup I used some Command adhesive strips to hold the bottom of the phone to a workbench as they easily pull/stretch away when you need to remove them!

Dion Sosa - Reply

Image 1/2: Remove the suction cup from the display assembly. Image 2/2: Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
  • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

  • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

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Image 1/3: Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge. Image 2/3: During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case. Image 3/3: During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.
  • Open the iPhone by swinging the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

    • Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge.

    • During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.

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Image 1/3: In a pinch, an unopened canned beverage works well for this. Image 2/3: Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables. Image 3/3: Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • In a pinch, an unopened canned beverage works well for this.

  • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

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Image 1/1: One 2.2 mm screw
  • Remove the following Phillips screws from the battery connector bracket:

    • One 2.2 mm screw

    • One 3.2 mm screw

#000 needed here

David Pobuda - Reply

These screws require a Phillips #000 not Phillips #00 bit.

David Powell - Reply

I replace the antenna in the upper left-hand corner an in the bottom middle with the lightning connector because After disassemble it completely i lose my ability to have Cellular. After i replace both antennas i can find i nevertheless have cellular. anybody an idea ?

kupies2011 - Reply

@davidsapowell @David+Pobuda - I've submitted an update per your comments. Thanks for the guidance!

Nate Schley - Reply

With the phillips screwdriver included in the repair kit I cannot unscrew any of the interior screws because it is not the right size even though according to these comments all of the screws are #000 and on the product listing it says that the screwdriver I got is #000. Any suggestions?

Wilson Styres - Reply

Upon reassembly I found the Red 2.2 mm screw won't seat. Is it possible it sheared off? The Orange 3.2 is solid in both holes but 2.2 doesn't securely fit in either.. Should I just leave off the 2.2?

smcgreg - Reply

Duh, had the cover on the wrong way. Switched it around and the screw fit. (:

smcgreg - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Why in the YouTube video do you skip removing the battery connector

mjcoughlin70 - Reply

Image 1/1: Take care to only pry up on the battery connector, and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Take care to only pry up on the battery connector, and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

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Image 1/1: Three 1.2 mm screws
  • Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    • One 3.1 mm screw

  • Incorrect placement of these screws during reassembly will cause permanent damage to your iPhone's logic board.

Be careful when replacing the screws, not to accidentally put the 1.7mm screw into the center hole, where the 1.2 screw belongs. This can cause "Long Screw" damage, and render your phone unusable.

damianodessgillett - Reply

I don't have the magnetic pad but use duct tape face up in a tray. I write the step number and color of the screw on the sticky surface and let the screw stand heads up on the goo. The screw is presented for the driver when reassembling.

griffn - Reply

Can't stress enough how important it is not to mix up these screws! Using the 1.7mm screw for the lower left fixing will cause "long screw damage" and kill the backlight on the phone. I believe @damianodessgillett made the same point. Wish we could display a small warning message here to be extra careful for future fixers!

kev - Reply

I use a screw ID technique similar to griffn's; I print out the PDF version of the guide, then Scotch-tape each screw type to the guide at the step where the screw was removed. The screws are then distinguished by size and type at the point where they need to be reinstalled.

adlerpe - Reply

i am trying but only could open 2 screws and cannot open the rest of them, can you help me??

girlsrock742 - Reply

@girlsrock742 - I'm new here, but from what I've seen, questions like yours don't get answered. I have 2 suggestions:

# Be more specific about what your issue is.

# Make sure you're using the right screwdriver. (Get a magnifying glass & make sure the screwdriver fits nicely in the screwhead.) This guide is included in a guide I'm looking at, and my guide has a comment that #000 phillips is required for the battery connector bracket above, not #00 as documented. (That comment did not convey to this guide....)

Good luck!

Nate Schley - Reply

Thanks to @griffn & @adlerpe! I've updated the tools list to include the magnetic pad, and -- for us infrequent fixers -- I made a note in the intro text to describe the sort of thing you two noted here in place of the mag pad.

Also, to @damianodessgillett & @kev - I've submitted an update to the instructions to add the caution you recommend to the step. Hopefully others will avoid the pain of the Long Screw damage.

Nate Schley - Reply

It's possible to damage only a slot of flex cable ? I've opened my iPhone 6 but now front camera, speaker and the proximity sensor are not working. I've bought a new flex cabe to test it, but I have to be sure about that.

cruz.giovanni - Reply

I'm so worried I'm going insert the wrong screw. Does anyone have any suggestions to knowing how to properly tell the size of each screw? I bought a screw set and a magnetic pad but still have the same issue. Not knowing the correct placement of each screw. I'd definitely appreciate any help.

Patric - Reply

Hi Patric! We use a set of calipers to measure our screws, failing that you could use a very fine ruler. If you don't have any kind of measuring equipment, line the screws up on the magnetic mat and sort them by size there. Ideally you only have screws from this step! If you are trying to determine the size of all the screws in this guide, it's probably best to get a real ruler/caliper for the fine distinctions.

Sam Lionheart -

Do you have to remove the display to replace the battery?

Michael Aguilera - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector. Image 2/2: Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.
  • In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets on the logic board.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

I can not get these electrical connections to reconnect. If there is some secret to this it should be noted. I now have a phone all taken apart and can not get it back together. It makes no sense to only give directions to take a phone apart and not to put it back together.

douglas hughes - Reply

Use sideways bright light and peek underneath as you mate the contacts to align properly. Press very gently and evenly. Others have written that too much pressure in the center may warp the contact.

mahoffman - Reply

I'm having the same problem as above...really upset and frustrated at this point. :( 2/4 connectors (top and right) will 'click' just fine...the other two (bottom two) for the life of me wont connect!!!! :( any suggestions? i feel like i have tried everything. Sucks that is only thing stopping me screen from being repaired....

alyssaavaldezz - Reply

Hi alyssa. Were you able to connect the cables? I am having the same problem

Veronica del Rio -

regarding cable connects - if two of the ribbon cables are not properly overlapped around each other, then it will appear as if cable #2 will need to plug into the closest jack, which is actually for cable#3. Look at the two connectors carefully - they are opposite gender and can't be interchanged.

David Panak - Reply

This is good advice, and usually the problem people experience here. There is a very specific way the ribbon cables are layered, and if not correct when reassembled, the reach of the cables will cause you to assume which cable goes where and to try to insert the wrong plugs into the wrong sockets. Please do not try to force them. If they don't snap in easily, examine them closely, and you'll see the plugs and sockets are slightly different sizes, with one wider than the other. Better to take care to note how the cables layer during disassembly, or perhaps mark them to avoid this frustration on reassembly.

gybeho -

Check order of cables. From screen replacement.

lee moran - Reply

my problem is that the connectors are different the screen i replaced it with the connectors were longer than the broken screen even though there the exact same type of screen

andrew midgett - Reply

Probably just have the cables out of order. Check the posts above.

gybeho - Reply

"gybeho" Ok, but it's impossible to install flex cables out of order. Each one has diferent sizes of docking...

cruz.giovanni - Reply

it is very possible to install flex cables out of order. to most people working on their first screen replacement they do not have the experience to notice that their flex cable connection is different than the dock connection. this causes them to press harder and force the connection into the dock, ruining the connections, if they do not think the they have the cables out of order

Dakota Navarrete - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector.

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Image 1/2: When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to [guide|29363|disconnect and reconnect the battery connector|stepid=69537]. Image 2/2: When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to [guide|29363|disconnect and reconnect the battery connector|stepid=69537].
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display data cable connector.

  • When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.

you missed the name of the second connctor. there are four total

copykatt - Reply

My screen is completely black and i can see the lights turning on when i press the home or lock button. Maybe this cable got damaged ?

Gabriel Hirata - Reply

Perhaps you bought a faulty screen. Often this is the case when it shows completely black.

William Mullan - Reply

When I was preforming this step, while reassembling, I had to connect the digitizer cable four times. On the last time, before screwing the Front Panel Assembly Cable Bracket on, I reconnected the battery connector and turned my phone on (ensuring that I was careful not to damage any cables!) to ensure that all cables were connected correctly and that the screen was fully functional.

Christopher - Reply

NO NO NO ! i am a professional iphone repairman and i strongly recommend against using ANY tool to disconnect the flex connectors if u slip or use to much force you will damage the connector and may cause permanent damage to the phones logic board rendering it completely UNrepairable! Instead gently use the edge of your fingernail and pry up and the connectors will usually come off with very little effort .

taylor sparks - Reply

Image 1/2: When reconnecting the digitizer cable, '''do not press the center of the connector'''. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage. Image 2/2: When reconnecting the digitizer cable, '''do not press the center of the connector'''. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

  • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Reassembly was harder than other i devices I have worked on. A bench light from the side helped a lot with the first cable, the digitizer. The others went a bit better in this crowded space. I had screen lines when testing it out before closing the top, so reinstalled all four connectors here with the aid of a side light and happily, that worked!

griffn - Reply

i crossed over the first two cables initially, when re-assembled; make sure by the WIDTH that you are trying to connect them in the right order.

awr - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

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Image 1/1: Use your fingers or blunt tweezers, and be extra careful when working near the battery—puncturing a lithium-ion battery can release dangerous chemicals and cause a fire.
  • Peel back the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom right edge of the battery.

  • Use your fingers or blunt tweezers, and be extra careful when working near the battery—puncturing a lithium-ion battery can release dangerous chemicals and cause a fire.

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Image 1/1: Try not to pull against the battery or the lower components, or you may rip the adhesive strip.
  • Gently pull the battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

    • Try not to pull against the battery or the lower components, or you may rip the adhesive strip.

  • Continue pulling, allowing the strip to slowly slip out from between the battery and the rear case. When you feel increased resistance from the strip, stop pulling and continue with the next step.

  • If the battery adhesive tabs break off at any point during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.

    • If either of the adhesive strips breaks off underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove the remaining strip, and then proceed to Step 25.

I suggest removing the vibrator before attempting to remove the adhesive strips. It makes the process much easier. I broke both tabs following this step and recovered both the strips by removing the vibrateor and using a tweezers and fingers to pull the remaining strip. I grabbed a corner of the strip underneath the battery and pulled very gently until I was able to recover the entire width of the strip. This required holding the corner of the strip with my fingers and using the tweezers to grab the stip closer to the battery, allowing me to grab more width.

kkm113 - Reply

I had to do this, so I will vouch for this step. It made things a lot easier and is a pretty simple removal/installation.

Dan -

My iphone 6 will not power on. I started it with 30% battery can you suggest solutions?

xavierwells03 - Reply

It was that dang data cable. Awesome, thanks!

xavierwells03 -

I did this but it doesn't charge. I'm concerned that I may not have attached the new battery cable properly. It didn't snap into place very well. It looked as if the new cable had some plastic that may have been blocking the connectors I'm not sure how snug it's supposed to go on. It definitely did not click into position the way the screen cables clicked in. Anyway, I connected as best I could and put the metal cover on and it doesn't work. Was I supposed to do something to the new battery's cable connector so that it would connect better?

My phone had some water damage and I was hoping that replacing the battery would solve the problem.

epetner - Reply

When 'reversing the steps' to put it back together, where do the adhesive strips come in? And where do you get them? How do you put them on?

TJE - Reply

Hi TJE, you won't be able to follow every step exactly in revers ;) You can buy the strips here, iPhone 6/6s/7 Battery Adhesive Strips, or just use a piece of double-sided tape. For the adhesive strips, just peel off one layer of the backing, align the strips as they were in step 20, press them onto the battery and remove the outer backing, and put it in the phone, making sure the connector can attach to its socket, then head up to step 19 attach the connector etc.

Sam Lionheart -

The strips need more instruction/picture. As soon as I tried to peel the top layer the strips stuck to each other and created a mess. I salvaged part of the strip, but not pretty. Used double sided tape. Much easier.

eschrank - Reply

AGREED! I bought the iFixit kit and this instructional is great, for sure... buuuuut it really would have been nice to see how you guys apply the new battery adhesive. I had no idea and just about botched mine. Thankfully I figured it out before it was a total loss.

leon -

Yup, I agree! The only bit of information that is missing.

I hope I do not have to remove the battery again as i put the strips on the wrong way round.

The kept folding themselves under the battery, so next time not tabs. I did not pust hard on the battery though so that may save some ball ache.

I did not need to remove the screen, so all in all a simple process. I think once you have done one or 2 batteries, then it becomes easier as you are learning by doing.

PJ Donnelly -

That information isn't missing exactly, it's just a separate guide. It's linked in the last step of this guide. It pays to read all the way to the end ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

Heat helps. Got lucky pulling both out full length from the bottom. A few minutes with a hair dryer prepped the aluminum case to surrender the stretchy sticky tabs. Be sure to click the tape install link so that you apply the new double sticks correctly. I also 'dry fitted' the battery first to see where the connector lined up. With the battery all the way at the top of the opening, the connector took a bit of effort to align. With strips attached, I allowed some space and the connector fell into place.

griffn - Reply

why do you need to secure the battery with the strips in the first place? Will the battery slide around?

jsimons - Reply

We recommend readhering the battery to the rear case with some form of adhesive. You don't have to use the adhesive strips we sell, but if your battery is just bouncing around inside the case you risk damage to the cell itself or the ribbon cable. There's also circuitry at the lower edge of the battery that is not meant to take a lot of abuse. It's not likely that your battery will explode, but it could become damaged and leak, or stop working prematurely.

Evan Noronha -

I didn't secure the battery with anything and after completing the installation, my battery bounces around inside the phone. Personally, I don't see any problems with this and if anything, it gives my iphone 6 a haptic touch type feel :) I'll let you know if it explodes.

Brett Benson - Reply

Be careful when placing the new battery. The compartment is a little bigger than the battery, but the cable to the connector is pretty stiff. I had to do some serious adjusting of the cable to get the connector to align. I suggest connecting the connector before laying down the battery.

Howard Bales - Reply

Image 1/2: Continue pulling the adhesive tab upward and away from the right edge of the battery, allowing it to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case, until the strip comes free from the iPhone. Image 2/2: Don't allow the adhesive strip to snag on the battery connector, or it may tear or break off.
  • When you feel increased resistance from the adhesive strip, pull it gently around the lower right corner of the battery.

  • Continue pulling the adhesive tab upward and away from the right edge of the battery, allowing it to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case, until the strip comes free from the iPhone.

  • Don't allow the adhesive strip to snag on the battery connector, or it may tear or break off.

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Image 1/1: Again, gently pull the battery adhesive tab upward and away from the battery, allowing the adhesive strip to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case.
  • Peel back the second battery adhesive tab from the bottom left edge of the battery.

  • Again, gently pull the battery adhesive tab upward and away from the battery, allowing the adhesive strip to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case.

  • Continue pulling the adhesive tab until you feel increased resistance, and then stop.

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Image 1/3: Don't allow the adhesive strip to snag on the corner of the battery, or it may tear or break off. Image 2/3: Continue pulling the adhesive tab upward and away from the left edge of the battery, allowing it to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case, until the strip comes free from the iPhone. Image 3/3: If you removed both adhesive strips successfully, '''skip the next two steps and continue on Step 27.'''
  • When you feel increased resistance from the adhesive strip, pull it gently around the lower left corner of the battery.

  • Don't allow the adhesive strip to snag on the corner of the battery, or it may tear or break off.

  • Continue pulling the adhesive tab upward and away from the left edge of the battery, allowing it to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case, until the strip comes free from the iPhone.

    • If you removed both adhesive strips successfully, skip the next two steps and continue on Step 27.

    • If either of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, continue with the next step below.

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Image 1/1:
  • If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.

I've found it useful to warm the phone with the iopener from the beginning, and avoid the breakage altogether.

Christa - Reply

Image 1/1: '''Do not''' insert your card  in the area between the volume down (-) button and the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the [https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/6nBtWNTDYIgDjHyM.huge|volume control cable|new_window=true] lying underneath.
  • Flip the iPhone back over and insert a plastic card between the case side of the battery and the rear case.

    • Do not insert your card in the area between the volume down (-) button and the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the volume control cable lying underneath.

    • Do not pry against the logic board or you may damage the phone.

  • Keep the card as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals or catch fire. Do not use any sharp tools to pry at the battery.

  • Press the card in farther to break up the adhesive behind the battery.

  • Alternatively, a piece of dental floss may be used to separate the battery from the rear case. A stronger alternative to dental floss is an unwound guitar string, such as a 0.009 E string from a 12-string set.

    • Thread the floss or string behind the upper battery corners, bring the ends together, wrap them around a folded cloth, and pull evenly.

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Image 1/1: When installing the battery, refer to [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+Battery+Adhesive+Strips+Replacement/56465|this guide] to replace your battery's adhesive strips.
  • Remove the battery from the iPhone.

  • When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips.

  • Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

This was very helpful

PRABHUDEV KULKARNI - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery: Drain battery below 10%, then charge uninterrupted to 100%.

739 other people completed this guide.

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99 Comments

Ok so battery extraction went a little bad and ended up cutting into old battery. When I pulled it out it was smoking a little. Got new battery put in and everything back screwed. It's charging up now (I'm assuming the battery is shipped dead) so heres hoping I didn't kill my phone.

roiegat - Reply

Is it absolutely necessary to do step 11-15

Or is it possible to lean the front panel up while still connected and only removing the battery screws and the battery

eldan - Reply

I strongly recommend following ALL of the steps as shown. The cables are extremely fragile and can tear easily. It will only add about 5 minutes or so to the project, but could save hours and dollars. Also, take your time removing the battery adhesive strips. If they break off underneath the battery, they are a bear to get out.

Coach Bob -

I definitely skipped ahead and left these attached. I just held the screen up and only laid it down to apply the adhesive to the new battery.

leon -

I stuck the screen on to an iPhone box (just like in the photo) and did not have to remove the display cables.

BUT, you need to be very careful -- especially if the white strips break on you. If you need to use the plastic card and/or heat to remove the battery, I recommend disconnecting the display.

Carlos -

Excellent tutorial. worked like a charm for me without the iSlack & the iOpener.

fxschaeffer - Reply

I've done all the steps as you said but may wifi doesn't work anymore is it related to the screen cables or its anothoer issue?

jack aoun - Reply

you most likely disconnected the small little cable next to the battery cable that is for wifi on accident simple solution open it up then remove the plate that covers the bat connector there are 2 cables that sit staged the one on the bottom of the phone is alinged to the right the one on the top is to the left in the lower left corner below the battery cable there is a small wire sitting right next to the second connector the one aligned to the right you could have bumped it when you popped the bat cable out

Tom LaBone -

Accidentally punched the battery getting it out and it caught fire, so just be care pulling it out guys!

rclum150 - Reply

same.. it blew up right in front of me. green flames and all. i did not throw water on it and after about 60 seconds the fire went out on its own. be very careful

aa ron -

Completed battery replacement with no problem at all. Read carefully the guide and watch the videos before trying to repair it.

jamesedricopena - Reply

iphone 6s battery can fit in iphone 6 ? thank you.

contactnepalistuff - Reply

No-they are not cross compatible

rannez76 -

No. They are not interchangeable.

Evan Noronha -

Please be very careful on removing the battery, i accidentally broke one trying to take it off with a metal tool and it was about to burn. So today I've taken another on off, but i bent it, and as well seems that is warming up. I guess the right way to do this job is using the iopener. Thanks.

castillorene70 - Reply

Talk about a Mission just to replace a battery!!! Gawd....this tutorial makes me appreciate my Galaxy even more; simply slide the back cover off, pull out the old battery (with a finger nail...gasssp!), put the new battery in, slide the back cover on, charge and you're back in business.

parr70 - Reply

You don`t have to open a Galaxy, it burns open :D :D

Klausi -

Ooooooooooooo!

Erin Bernik -

Pulling the adhesive tape from under the battery is extremely tricky. I wonder how many people get this right when they do it for the first time.

Don't forget to have the 'official' tapes at hand. I did not, so I have used doublesided tape. It will be impossible to remove this next time without heating.

Well, I hope I need to replace the battery only once...

Paul Roos - Reply

Worked perfect. Thanks for the manual.

One strip snapped on me, so I ended up using the hairdryer, which is oke, but stay patient!! It took a while before the heat really went into the adhesive ( because you can't get the phone to hot - and you can't bent the battery to force its release - so here is where the patience kicks in). Then assembling back you need tremble free hands to get the connectors back in but those are about the only two challenges I faced. I got it back on and everything works perfect! Geert

Familie Swaanenburg - Reply

I replaced my battery without the iSlack & the iOpener. Steps 22 and 23 are definitely the most difficult. The left adhesive strip broke immediately, and I had to reach under the battery with tweezers to pull out enough adhesive to grab onto to finish the job.

The kit came with some black double-sided adhesive, and I cut off some small strips to secure the replacement battery with a small amount wrapped around the side, in case I had to remove it again.

I forgot to replace everything when putting the phone back together, and when I had to open it a second time, the pentalobe screw head was already stripped. To work around this, I used a pair of scissors to shorten the head of the pentalobe screwdriver a bit, which made it grip the screw a bit more.

Everything seems to be working now and the process took about 45 minutes.

Lee Ping Wang - Reply

I followed the steps to the letter, only area I had a little struggle was getting the adhesive strips out from below the battery, but using an old credit card slid in the side like mentioned i got the battery out, a little bent but undamaged otherwise.

My only annoyance was after purchasing the the kit iPhone 6 Replacement Battery i found that the phillips screwdriver was the wrong size, luckily i had my own at hand so could proceed.

I too would recommend you take the extra time to release the screen as the instruction guide you to do so as the battery is stuck in quite well and you would most likely damage the ribbon cables to the screen if you were struggling to get the battery out.

haggismuncheruk - Reply

This was not even close to being moderately difficult. It took me less then 5 mins and I'd say was easy... Just pay attention to what you're doing and make sure to organized the screws on your work surface by step. I see a few people complaining about the adhesive strips , READ the entire article! Theres a line that says: "When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips." $35 for a fix! Worth every penny!!! Thanks iFixit peeps!

Garrett Cumber - Reply

Can I replace my iPhone 6 battery with a better battery? If yes which one?

Aamir - Reply

I think you'll find the capacity is the same on all the available replacements. My advice: focus on getting a high-quality part from a reputable vendor, preferably one with a written guarantee. There are a lot of second-rate and/or secondhand batteries on the market.

Jeff Suovanen -

Having trouble with reassembly... The white bars at the top of the screen and down the middle have not gone away despite multiple disconnect and reconnect attempts of the data display cable and power cycle of the battery. I can feel it snap into place but the lines are still present when I power up the phone. Any help?

Eric Kelley - Reply

I'm Having the same problem, did you find a solution?

Manuel -

Same with me, white bars and no touch screen.

Rico Nolan -

Alright, I was able to fix the issue. After reading very scary stories about microsoldering and level 4 and 5 repairs. I pulled out a lamp and started looking around at all of the connectors.

Starting with all of the display ribbons plugged in, the three that are in a row is where the problem lies. The first one I believe is the front facing camera, the second one killed the display, but it was the third one that had the issue. I noticed that the ribbon cable at the connector was slightly convex. I threw on some rubber gloves and very carfully straightened out the ribbon connector. To be honest, it took a few attempts after that, as I could never feel a good "click" to get that third connector seated. So I would try to straighten it out, then try and seat it, over and over making very small changes until it fit. Once it went in, the white bars were gone and the touchscreen worked perfectly.

I think that third connector is just a very tight squeeze, and you just have to be careful when trying to seat it.

Rico Nolan -

Same issue here - white lines on dim display, digitizer failure (and quite a bit of heat on one little section on the upper display after powering up for a minute). I noticed the digitizer and display connectors would not "click" satisfyingly. Noticed they were not exactly straight, slightly convex face into the socket (I guess from the initial pry-off). Tried very gentle bending with fingers to make straight, and still, no luck. Had to make the connector faces ever-so-slightly concave into the socket before success, using very gentle and careful bends with fingers. Connectors "clicked" into place nicely again, and display and digitizer working again. Took about 2.5 hours of fiddling (even after perfect extraction of battery/adhesive!)

Julian Roeckelein -

I replaced the battery on 2 iPhone 6's today . The first one went perfect. After putting together the second one, it had small white vertical bars on the top. It drove me crazy. I cleaned, brushed, hooked and unhooked the connections over and over for 1-2 hours. I read on line that it could be static electricity and that it might work itself out over a couple of days. I was skeptical but could do nothing else. I put it together. Over then next 6 hours of use the bars went away. Now it is perfect. If, or when, I have to do it again I would not take the top cover off. I would put a ribber band around the cover and the box to hold the cover at a 90 degree angle (step 9) and gently pull the adhesive. I had no problem with 4 strips. I pulled SLOWLY and steadily. If you go slow you can hear and feel the tape releasing. I did not need to pull the tape around the corner and did not need heat. It took several minutes to pull each one. Just be patient.

Jason Erickson -

Likely cause ESD micro electronic surfaces are extremely touchy to ESD and Most likely you will not see any improvement you either just need to live with it or get a new phone ESD safe work are ESD safe tools all are helpful but even I as a pro- still have this issue sometimes

Tom LaBone -

I had exactly the same problem. I re-read the comments and instructions and was drawn to the extra advice on Step 18 - when reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press in the centre of the connector. I re-straightened the connector which was concave and then pressed on one end - it clicked ever so slightly - hurrah! After that it was plain sailing.

Andy Pandy -

Nice tutorial. Changed battery in one go.

Thanks

chaudharyvineet - Reply

while replacing the battery everything worked perfectly fine but my finger scanner stopped working what do i do?

Felipe Barbosa - Reply

replaced iphone 6s battery without any complications put phone back together only to find screen has horizontal and diagonal white lines across full screen and screen will not unlock, you can read wording in the background (i.e. time, date and slide to unlock) although screen is very dark. screen will not respond, we have carefully repeated the process three times but nothing has changed. Any ideas. Thank you

Phillip Cody - Reply

Everything went very well. I did take a short cut and did not disconnect the screen form the body and was still able to extract the old battery and install the new one. The adhesive tape that holds the battery in is very strong and the old battery got a bit contorted (literally was bent) during removal. I did use a hairdryer to heat up the adhesive, which did help. Fortunately, no leaks. New battery install was easy and everything went back together easily. Total time, about 15 minutes.

damon blue - Reply

Was nice replacement but the finger scanner has stop

Joseph Eyeson - Reply

Great step by step instructions. Removing the adhesive strips were a little more difficult than anticipated. Actually had to use a hair dryer-not pleasant, almost broke the battery trying to pry it out. Also had to scrounge around the house for a tool to remove the tiny tiny screws. Would have been nice to have that included in the kit. In the end, all's well that ends well. Thanks again for the write up.

Jason Park - Reply

Good tutorial. The hair dryer to remove the battery didn't work very well, I ended up forcing the old battery out, and bent it but didn't break it. Be careful with the adhesive strips. I messed mine up, but I'm not planning on doing another battery replacement on this phone, so it worked, not quite as described.

jpholmes - Reply

I usually work on computers, specifally laptops! I am older and can't see as well as I used to! Considering these facts I have to say that I had no problem whatsoever fallowing this tutorial and had the best outcome possible! The teacher in this class was outstanding!

User Owner - Reply

If you remove the vibration module, chances of the strips breaking are further reduced as it doesn't drag on the corner of it. Hold onto the battery so it doesn't fly away when the last strip is peeled out. Hope this helps!

mmddamian - Reply

Fantastic guide, went super well. I did not have the replacement strips, so I carefully removed the second one and reused it. Not recommended but it seems to work. The first one just got into one big messy ball so that ship has sailed. anyways I'm keeping it until it breaks so not worried.

Follow the guide, slowly but surely and be amazed that those strips stretch to nearly 30cm / 12in! it's fantastic. Got it the first try, no breakout and certainly no damaged battery! Very eager to see how the new one holds up, or if the OS has become more demanding!

Cheers and congrats!

Felix Amyot - Reply

The metal backed connector closest to the top of the phone bends very easily... Use the medium wide plastic pry tool to pry up very gently all the way around in tiny , tiny lifting movements. You are trying to retain the flat shape of the connector as much as humanly possible. Try to spread the prying force out across the whole connector as best you can...if you bent it a little, you must use your fingers to get it back as flat as possible. Try to align the short side edge of the connector up as good as you can and GENTLY press the whole connector back down all at once. I usually use my thumb nail and push in the center of the connectors when reassembling a phone...this will almost certainly bend the connector and cause the contacts at either short end to not touch the mating contact...this gives you the dashed bars and lines on the screen...the connector must be absolutely flat to make good contact.

Rob - Reply

ممتاز جدا والله

sultan - Reply

bent original battery like a skating ramp, NO fire and flames but HELLLLLL removing battery is really hard! those adesive strips are SUPER STRONG.

maxprowashere - Reply

I managed to get the battery out with some careful levering after one of the glue 'strips' broke and could not be rescued with tweezers. However, I had tried to save time and trouble by not disconnecting the screen first and came a cropper. I had used an elastic band to hold the screen vertical against a small, heavy box and that worked OK until the glue strip snapped and I nudged the box sideways a small amount. It didn't move far but it took the screen with it of course and that caused a tear in the cable going to the front facing camera and earpiece which resulted in me not being able to hear the caller in telephone conversations. The replacement cable and attached bits (camera, mic and one other sensor) was a ridiculously cheap £5.99 and the replacement, though fiddly, was successful installed but I would urge you to disconnect the screen as advised. I didn't primarily because I was concerned I may have a problem reconnecting the cables but it was no problem with good lighting and a steady hand.

Paul Croft - Reply

Tutorial is very good, I changed my iPhone 6 battery but the touchscreen doesn't work after changing the battery !!!

Any solution?

Wesam Alkubaisy - Reply

The procedure went well, until the adhesive strips. One came off, eventually, with the proper teasing, but the other snapped off and was inaccessible to retrieve, so I had to use the hair dryer to heat the back. A credit card is way too flexible to exert meaningful leverage, so I used a steel cabinet scraper, about the same thickness but much stiffer. The battery did flex a bit but thankfully did not explode, and finally came free.

I think there should be a reference right at the top of Step 20 to first read the linked strip installation instruction so you understand what the strips look like before you start pulling, and some comment about how stretchy and strong they are would be appropriate.

Reconnecting the connectors was very difficult, it took a lot of patience and gentle maneuvering to mate them, but all turned out well in the end. I powered the phone up to check it out before closing it up again, in case I had to re-do anything.

bford - Reply

Completed the replacement with no problem at all, following the guide. The battery adhesives came flawlessly, the only thing I was worried about was reconnecting all the display cables, specially the digitizer cable, as it kept poping out a few times.

Thank you very much for the guides!

andresaldana - Reply

I've done plenty of other under-the-hood upgrades. However, I could not get battery unstuck. I used hair dryer to attempt to make the adhesive let go of the battery, but it's a touchy procedure, as you want to loosen glue without melting other plastic components. I slid pryer under side and tried to lift up battery. Ultimately, I must've bent the battery too far, and it combusted! Wrecked iPhone. Not sure why so much adhesive is used. I fear the days of DIY upgrades is winding down, as apple seems to want to use more and more glue and components soldered to the main board, so what you buy is what you're stuck with for the life of the product.

If you can't unstick battery, DON'T pry so much the battery starts to bend! I now wonder if I could've vacuum-sealed the bag and boiled the phone for a few minutes to really warm up the adhesive, but it's an expensive procedure to do trial-and-error on...

Well, at least maybe I can sell the front screen on eBay to recoup some of the cost of a new iPhone...

koelpien - Reply

Same thing happened to me last night. I was ib too much of a hurry and one of the adhesive tabs broke off. I thought, being the smart ass that I am, that the battery wouldn't need heating and i could just lever it out. Well I urge you all to follow the above proceedures very, very closly !! The battery in my iphone 6+ combusted in my face and fortunately it dropped on the the floor and went up like a flair and litterally filled the house with smoke. Goodbye iPhone 6+ and I havnt backed it up for two months, thats another thing you should all be religious about. World of Pain here I come

sewren -

a Blow dryer does not apply enough heat to remove the glue some 99.7% pure isopropyal alchol will get it free you will need a credit card or something as such and have to work it in to get it to remove I recomened a heat gun they get much hotter and are able to heat the glue up enough to give you some play

Tom LaBone -

Please don't use a heat gun to remove a lith-ion battery. There are far less risky methods.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi, i'm just about to order a new battery to fix my iphone 6, just wondering if the APN number is important?

alain bellet - Reply

The APN doesn't matter as long as you order the correct battery for your model iPhone. (There are multiple compatible APNs for each model.)

Jeff Suovanen -

Superb guide! Had a very difficult time loosening my battery though... Had to use a hairdryer and heat up my iPhone really more than I felt comfortable but it worked! :)

I also found a guitar plectrum is very usable for carefully removing connectors!

Thomas Lundstrom - Reply

Ich habe meinen Akku gestern ohne Probleme entfernen und den neuen einsetzen können. Das Display habe ich jedoch nicht dafür abgebaut sondern nach hinten abgestützt. Das beigelegte Werkzeugkit war top!

Danke Ifixitteam!

Stefan Hohlfeld - Reply

Hi guys - good instructions and rather tough work, in my hands.

One but of extra caution: Underneath the right top end of the battery there are connector wires attached to the rear of the case. When using a plastic card to scrape the adhesive off the rear case take extra care at the right top corner of the battery.

My connector wires ended up crumpled from the push of the card but were still ok. When using a lot of pushing force in this area the connector wires may be pushed off the case and could rupture/break.

Mike L - Reply

Battery and adhesive came out as advertised. I must be blessed or lucky or both ;) My suggestion is to have patience with the adhesive! I pulled out each strip extremely slow. The entire process took 7 minutes total on my iPhone6. I was sent a battery with 65% charge and will have to eat-up all my battery life on Real Racing 3!

P.S. Apple has a battery replacement program for the 6S but not my 6 :(

Eric Pattengill - Reply

Great tutorial! As others have mentioned take your time on the adhesives. When they are attached under the battery you will bend gate your phone trying to get them out. Also I would recommend using the iOpener underneath the phone before you make your first attempt at removing the adhesives. That would have saved me 15 min. As other have mentioned you can forego steps 11-15 until you take off the connectors of the top part of the phone, but you will have to the steps to remove the battery so there is no harm in doing them first.

Vincent Sordo - Reply

Hello All, change of battery on a 6s plus: battery settings, no consumption app's & no discount estimate autonomy if not recharged at 100%

Kaartman - Reply

Excellent guide, thank you iFixit. Took me about an hour start to finish with no issues. If you have the proper tools and exercise patience, this is a pretty easy procedure. Slow and steady is key with the adhesive strips.. I found that a gentle back and forth motion (top to bottom) as I pulled the strips up toward the top of the battery helped to safely remove them from the underside of the battery. I used double-sided tape for the replacement and it's working like a charm.

Jason Senk - Reply

Yep. Excellent guide and photos. I did use a piece of white paper for the hardware as I removed them. Added a simple drawing with marks for the screw locations. Then left each screw near it's place on the drawing. Some techs also use a piece of masking tape (looped with the sticky side up) to keep the tiny hardware from...escaping.

Thomas - Reply

So what do I do now? I removed the old battery following all the directions. The old battery is bent up & not usable. I put the new battery in & nothing works now. I tried doing a hard reset then charging it for half an hour & then a hard reset again. Nothing!!! I connect the old battery & it starts right up fine. How do I get a replacement battery overnighted to replace this defective piece of crap!!!

jamchris - Reply

Old battery a pain to remove but done it without puncturing it. Hardest part for me was to reconnect battery connector. Lower part doesn't seem to fit anymore so connector is not seated flush. Upper part clicks ok and snaps in but lower part of the connector never clicked in properly. Tried and retried but to no avail. So had to secure it with the screw on bracket. Not ideal but seems to hold so far. No one had this problem on reconnecting new battery? Feels like new battery connector seems slightly different from original battery hence hard to properly seat on board contact receiver

gillescoury - Reply

This was SOOOO Easy!!! We were done in about 5 minutes. We did not complete steps 13-19.. But everything went smooth as could be. My phone is now back to perfect working order!

Heather - Reply

Just finished doing this! Definitely recommend to do steps 13-19, if you have trouble removing the old battery like I had those steps will svae you money for sure. Removing the old battery was the harder part for me, the adhesive strips broke and had to use the hair dryer and some brute force to remove it. The battery bent but I didn't puncture it. Also be carefull when placing the new battery so the conector is aligned with the slot.

carlitosbeltran - Reply

Mint. Worked as stated. However, getting the adhesive tape out was a bastard and I had to get the hairdryer and pry the sod out with a credit card, supllemented by brute force and ignorance. The battery got bent but didn't rupture.

cdavies - Reply

I ran into the same issue as cdavies. It seemed no matter how patient I was with tugging the adhesive as well as heating it up with a hair dryer, it came to a point where they wouldn't move further, eventually breaking. Slightly bending the battery is inevitable with going the card method so be careful, but it worked fine.

Another issue I ran into after putting it back together and turning the iPhone back on is a blue-like spot would slowly appear on the display after a minute or 2 - this spot being exactly where the battery's ribbon cable is positioned before connecting to the board. It seemed I didn't tuck it in completely when I put in the new battery and it was putting a slight amount of pressure (I assume) against the display as a result. I just had to open it back up and position it to where it should've been and slightly tucking it in more. That blue-like spot disappeared.

So unlike me, make sure the ribbon cable's position looks like how the old battery's ribbon cable looked like and it'll be fine.

Anony Mous - Reply

Here's a tip that helped me get the adhesive tape out. Take your time on the tape. It runs the length of the battery. If it breaks you can use the ifixit tweezers to grab the edge of the tape and start pulling on it again. Once both pieces of tape come out the battery easily comes out. If at any point when using the credit card to remove the battery if you can grab the tape with tweezers, go for it and it will save you lots of time and hassle.

Aaron McLean - Reply

Ended up screwing up the LCD because I did not align the battery connector with the socket perfectly. Do not make that mistake or you will be paying $140 like me to fix it.

Dylan Rice - Reply

Adhesive on the old iphone6 was very strong, so I had to use a credit card to wedge on the side of the case, and then use a big screwdriver to wedge it up, really mangled up the old battery while removing.

Behind the screen it's just the machined aluminum so it's ok to wedge on it, except towards the top where there's the antenna, see the diagrams above. It's just the battery with strong adhesive against the aluminum base.

Filipe Laborde - Reply

* big FLAThead screwdriver. More details on this guide indicating there's no circuit board on the back, etc would be nice becuase removing the battery from the strong adhesive is a non-trivial matter. But otherwise awesome, thanks guys.

Filipe Laborde - Reply

Actually there are cables below the battery that you can and will damage Heat gun and Isopropyal alcohol 99% pure or greater

Tom LaBone -

I am feeling sick right now. I also used the tutorial on Forbes.com instead of this one which was sort of close. I pretty much followed all the steps except I didn't keep the screws separate when putting them back in. I just knew that 2 of them were bigger than the other ones, when in fact it was 3 of them :-( . I also didn't remove the top screen during the replacement and could have damaged all kinds of stuff. I went through the steps twice and nothing. My phone is not charging so I either screwed up big time or the battery is a dud. I tend to think that I messed this up and will end up having to get a new phone anyway (which I was trying to avoid). My stomach hurts. Hope you guys have better luck.

Candace Jackson - Reply

Candace, do not give up hope quite yet! First of all, it is okay if you didn't remove the screen. If you didn't unscrew the bracket seen in step 13, it is unlikely that anything display related got disconnected. Check the cables and see if anything ripped. If you were gentle, this is unlikely the case. It is very possible that you didn't connect the battery connector correctly. Remove the screws and bracket again seen in step 10 and 11, measure the screws so you know where they go (cross reference this guide), and check the battery connector (see step 12). Also, you are talking about more than a couple screws, but if you didn't remove the screen as is done in step 13, you should only have 4 screws total (The pentalobes holding the screen in place, and the screws holding the battery connector bracket). If you did remove the bracket in step 13, measure the screws so you know where they go, and check the connectors that sit underneath that bracket. I am sure you will prevail! Good luck!

Scott Havard -

Read Jason Erickson's solution above to the Vertical Bars. Once you've checked the connectors are seated properly leave the phone on for a few hours and the bars just start fading away. I can barely see mine now unless I rack up the brightness to full, but only been a few hours.

Matthew Wright - Reply

I finished the battery replacement some hours ago. All went well except by the adhesive strips removal. It took way more time to remove it as I imagined. After reassembling it I had to plug the phone straight direct into the power outlet because the new battery was dead and the phone started up with everything working as it should (camera, screen, speaker, touch). I left the phone charging until 100% and I was using it normally while plugged in but when I removed the cable the phone died. I was trying to get it to power up without the cable and after some tries it powered up asking to connect to iTunes for an update. That's what I did. It powered up again and the phone was working again, but instead of showing the battery at 100%, it was around 60%. I let it charge until around 85% and decided to give another try of removing the power cable. The phone died again. Sometimes it works without the power cable, sometimes it doesn't. I can't understand why.. Do you guys have any idea of what I could be?

diegocoiradas - Reply

have you tired disconnecting and reconnecting the battery connector? also maybe a hard reset of the phone after might help reset the system,

Carlos Garcia Jr -

Yes, i did both. I just opened the phone again to tried to check if everything was well plugged it. Now the phone won't even start. Screen black. LCD not even turning on. Even with power cable connected. Btw all the cables are intact and don't seem to have any damage. I treated it very carefully.

diegocoiradas -

might need to email customer service. maybe the battery you received is no good

Carlos Garcia Jr -

Yeah.. i also think so.. the funny thing is that the phone boots in DFU and recovery mode normally. It appears in iTunes and i can ask for a recovery. It ends not recovering it and ending in Error 4005. I'm starting to think about the screen itself. maybe i broke it..

diegocoiradas -

Just realised its not the screen. If I plug it directly into the wall (not to my pc) the screens powers on but it won't initialise. It stays on the Apple Logo and goes black, then back to the logo and black again repeatedly.

diegocoiradas -

My iPhone boots to the Apple logo and then turns itself off..

seems like these folks had the same issues you are. read through this. i noticed they said try hard reset will its plugged in the wall. if not try going into recovery mode whilel its connected to your laptop. (you might lose all your data on your phone) seems the phones firmware might need to be updated. hopes this helps

Carlos Garcia Jr - Reply

Good guide, I followed all the steps except for when it actually came to remove the battery strips and the battery itself. Those adhesive strips are a pain to take out and both of them snapped while I was attempting to remove them. I went off script and had to "delicately" pry the original battery out. The whole time I was afraid I was going to puncture the battery but if you are slow and methodical it can be done, my battery ended being bent considerably from me trying to extricate it.

Also, not an absolute requirement but I wish iFixit would include an extra set of adhesive strips for the replacement battery.

andrew - Reply

Followed everything step by step. Reconnected and tried to charge. Screen is just black and white lines and phone very hot. Thoughts?

cambell ferguson - Reply

I would disconnect and reconnect all the connectors. And the ones by the top of the screen where it folds up inspect the ribbon strips. Make sure they did not get twisted. The ones iam talking about are in steps 16-18. Step 17 does say if you get display issues it's prob because the display connector isn't fully seated. As for the battery getting hot. I would reconnect that connector as well. If it's depleted might just be juicing up.

Carlos Garcia Jr -

I followed the tutorial step by step, managed to damage the old battery which followed with a little bit of smoke. Installed new battery and reassembled but now my phone doesn't turn on, or even show its charging. Can anyone help?

Sam Mills - Reply

Was the Battery still connected to the mainboard while it shortcutted? If yes, then maybe it is damaged. Otherwise, maybe the connectors are not really fixed to the sockets.

Klausi -

Excelente! Aparelho arrumado com sucesso

Rodrigo Souza - Reply

I did not go thru all of the comments, but I had to vent somewhere about this.

The adhesive strips used to attach the battery to the chassis of the phone are at least 1000 times past the ridiculous point of necessity.

First of all, when would the battery ever fall out of the phone while it is all together. Some very weak 2 sided tape should have been more than enough to attach the battery strong enough for any situation.

OH WAIT! I forgot, what if you were replacing the screen and while the screen is detached from the rest of the phone, there is a TORNADO.

I guess in that situation I would be glad that the adhesive is so strong so that my battery doesn't fly away and get lost.

Chalk one up for the secret department at Apple that makes it as hard as possible for end users to fix their phones.

Bruce Taylor - Reply

I attempted this last night. I got the left side of the battery adhesive to come out in one strip but the right side broke. I used a credit card and dental floss to get it free. I thought the battery removal would be the hardest part, but it turns out that applying the adhesive would be. I even watched the video. Still failed.

So, I was determined to get the project done. I went to home depot to look for double sided tape. I purchased double sided foam tape. I put it in and discovered it was too thick. I then panicked because the battery was stuck in and I didn't leave myself much slack on the left side to get a credit card in.

I tried to remove it by gently prying from the bottom left but noticed it wiggle so I decided that wasn't safe. I finally was able to successfully remove it again but I'm worried I may have damaged the battery. Is there any way I can know that the battery is safe to use?

I ordered a 3 pack of adhesive so I've got 3 chances to get it right. It should be here tomorrow.

kbrown488 - Reply

Hey kbrown488, As long as the battery hasn't been too badly bent/wrinkled, it isnt' swollen, there are no holes in the casing, and there is not a funny smell, you should be okay. However, if the display begins to separate from the casing, or the home button starts acting up, this could be a sign of a swollen battery, so keep an eye on that!

Sam Lionheart -

OK, I got my adhesives in yesterday and I was able to complete the project. It powered up and everything looked good, home button functions, fingerprint scanner works. Only one small weird issue though. I let the battery drain to below 10% then charged it. I waited all night for it to get to 100% but at 97% I fell asleep. I woke up early in the morning and saw that it was still at 97% and thought that can't be good but forced a reboot and when it came back up it said 100%. Anyone know what that means? I took it off the charger and used it some this morning and it seems to be draining. My original reason for replacing the battery was that the battery percentage would be completely wrong, most of the time it would get stuck at 100% but then suddenly die. I believe that using the Apple smart battery case may have been a contributing factor to this. The battery didn't seem to wrinkled when I installed it. Could it still swell up if there is a problem?

kbrown488 -

Simple, straightfoward guide... completed the whole process in about 20 minutes. And now my daughter's iPhone 6 is alive again. Great!

Fabio Orlovas - Reply

I just did this repair today with almost complete success. Battery seems to be working well. However when I reassembled the phone and powered on, there was a faint blue pressure spot on the display just a bit smaller than a dime, 3/4 of an inch above the home button.

The only two things I think that could be causing this pressure spot is the battery cable itself, I noticed when I installed it that it wasn't exactly a perfect flush fit below the body of the battery...OR the new battery adhesive strips that I installed show a tiny bit of the white sticky part (I think I applied them a few mm too high) and that might be sticking to the display?

If it's the battery cable I don't know what to do to fix it. If it's the adhesive strips causing the problem, is there anything I can apply over them to stop them from being sticky in that one spot?

Othersomethings - Reply

Really unhappy with this product! I messed up my iPhone and now I need to get a new one. I hate that they give you instructions on how to take off the battery but nothing to put it back on. Just says to do everything backwards. What a waste of money!

Jim Lopez - Reply

Instructions on how to remove adhesive strips and reconnect the battery: iPhone Battery Adhesive Strips Replacement

Carlos -

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