Use this guide to bring life back to your iPhone 5s with a new battery.

Before you begin, drain your iPhone's battery below 25% charge. This will minimize the risk of a dangerous thermal runaway in the event that you accidentally deform or puncture the battery.

This guide instructs you to remove the front panel assembly; this is intended to prevent damage to the display cables. If you feel comfortable supporting the display carefully while peeling the battery out of the iPhone, skip the display removal and go directly to the battery removal steps.

For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery: Drain battery below 10%, then charge uninterrupted to 100%.

Video Overview

Image 1/3: Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered. Image 2/3: This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display. Image 3/3: Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

This was the most stressful thing I have ever done. I can't get the chips to pop in the top right corner, still coming up with white lines at top of screen even after re-powering the battery. Very poor experience, will let apple or a professional handle this rather than a how to. &&^& this.

steven krieger - Reply

This is a Step 4 comment. I ordered the iSclack tool to help with my 5s battery replacement. After 30 minutes of trying to open the iPhone, I gave up and will try this later when I have a lot more time to spend on this. Before you ask, yes I did remove the two screws in Step 2. I must have a very tight fitting phone! Maybe next time I'll try a drop of oil on both suction cups to help with the adhesion. LOL, did not think I'd have trouble opening the case!

TerryChang - Reply

An update. After months of living with my dead battery (iSclack would not work for me), I decided to use the provided suction cup, and surprise - it worked! LOL, so much for the iSclack tool! In any case, I followed the instructions and though it was a bit difficult (too small parts, too fat fingers, aging eyes), I was able to replace the battery. The battery removal was a bear, but with patience (and the use of an expired credit card as my lever), it did come out. Replacement of the adhesive strips was a puzzle - I eventually installed it "backwards" (removal hole in the tab on the left vs right) but this should not affect anything. Phone is charging now and preliminary testing of the home button/digitizer seem to be working. Once fully charged I'll do a full test on the phone to ensure I put things together correctly, but THANK YOU iFixIt for these instructions!

TerryChang -

I faced the same issue. My 5S wouldn't open with the iSclack. Had to use the suction cup instead. Even then, I wrestled with it for a whole 30 minutes.. Apparently my 5S is one sticky beast.

Daylen -

Image 1/1: Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
  • Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.9 mm Pentalobe screws from either side of Lightning connector.

I used a white terrycloth hand towel as my work surface and to position and retain all the screws and part in their relative positions, so I didn't mix things up. I also magnetized the screwdriver tips and that made it very easy to deal with these tiny, tiny screws.

Magnus Dalen - Reply

Image 1/3: Regardless of the tool you use, '''you need to be sure you pull up the entire display'''. Image 2/3: If the glass begins to separate from the plastic, as shown in the first image, slide a plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and the metal phone body to pry the metal clips out of the case. Image 3/3: If you are reassembling a phone with a separated display bezel, you may want to place a thin strip of adhesive between the plastic bezel and the glass to keep the phone closed.
  • In the following steps you will be pulling the display up out of the phone body. The display is composed of a glass screen and a plastic bezel with metal clips.

  • Regardless of the tool you use, you need to be sure you pull up the entire display.

  • If the glass begins to separate from the plastic, as shown in the first image, slide a plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and the metal phone body to pry the metal clips out of the case.

  • If you are reassembling a phone with a separated display bezel, you may want to place a thin strip of adhesive between the plastic bezel and the glass to keep the phone closed.

Add Comment

  • The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5s that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to Step 6.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

    • The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

DO NOT USE THIS METHOD. If the glue holding the glass to the screen assembly is weak, the force from the suction cup will pull the glass straight off. Instead, use a very thin flat metal tool to slide under the front face (carefully between the plastic edge strip and the metal case) and pry up. This is not only easier, but it is also a far safer method.

Izaac Post - Reply

Thank you very much, however already used the suction cup and it came much easier than expected... Then snapped the home cable on my wife's phone... Now I have to replace that...

Thomas Hallberg -

This tool is worth its weight in gold to make opening the case without breaking things very easy. Highly recommend using it. I needed to use the little blue plastic pry bar tool on one side of the case to get the glass and frame to release from the back.

Magnus Dalen - Reply

I used this tool on 2 successful screen replacements - BUT on the third time, the force did in fact separate the glass from the plastic, so I'd suggest inspecting first, and using with care.

Andrew - Reply

Image 1/2: The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the home button cable. Image 2/2: Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.
  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the home button cable.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on Step 9.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.
  • If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

  • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

  • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

My phone was too shattered to grip with my "Pump'itup" iFixit suction cup, and the method of adding packing tape over the display did not work either (still too lumpy). I ended up epoxying two 5" x 3/4" pieces of wood trim strips directly to the face of the phone, avoiding the Home switch and any seams, and positioning the wood to overhang the phone by ~2 inches. After 30 minutes of setting, I was able to lift up on the overhanging wood strips and pop the face of the phone out of the housing.

cpwittenberg - Reply

Use a Stanley knife to push in between the back housing and the frame in the bottom left and corner and gently leaver up.

Much easier Than using suction cup but may slight scratch the frame or housing.

Craig Matthews -

I suspect that the age of the phone and accident that caused cracks make this method possible for some people. My mom's phone was only a month or so old and the suction cup only caused the screen to raise slightly. There was certainly no crack I could squeeze a spudger into. I just superglued the suction cup onto the screen in the end, which was very effective.

Caroline Russell -

Removed board. I ended up with a small shiny metal plate. Shown clearly in the above last posted photos just under the power button switch. Where does this goes?

Malcolm - Reply

I was wondering the same thing. Did you ever figure out where this goes?

paul -

This has probably been replied to, but see step 31 :) Should be re installed with the pokey out bits pointing down.

daveoline -

Can someone please help me. I went through all of the steps and now my phone screen is all white and I can't see anything.

Lukeapple1414 - Reply

First try a hard reset by holding down both the power button and the home button at the same time for at least 10 seconds. If that doesn't work, get back inside the phone and reseat the connectors. If the problem persists, either you received a bad part, or the part was damaged during installation.

iGuys -

My screen was too broken and the suction cup would not stick. I too a piece of Gorilla duct-tape and stuck it to itself and then also to the screen so that it made a "Tab" that I could pull up on. This worked much better than the suction cup.

Nathan - Reply

@malcom @paul if you are referring to step 31 the plate needs to be placed as it comes out on the picture. Long flat part towards the top of the casing with the tab facing the right.

hari - Reply

In my case, i found it easier to remove the sim - not sure if this was a placebo effect, but there you go!

also, there is a rubber seal around the screen - my experience is it should stay of the display, not on the main body.

Robert Colvin - Reply

The amount of force I applied to open the case using the suction cup manually ended up tearing out the home button cable...ripping it in the process. Goodbye TouchID...see you next generation T_T

I would definitely recommend buying a stupid iSclack. I don't know why they'd even present the suction cup as an option. Maybe the 5S opens more easily when it's new. Now I need to decide between dropping more money on a new home button (and iSclack this time) or just hold out with the software home button.

johnsonjohnr - Reply

Just lift slightly using the suction cup and on the bottom edge of the screen over to the left you'll see a slight gap open up just enough to get the spudger in. Don't use the suction cup to release the entire display assembly, just work around the edge with a spudger. This also helps clear some of the dirt build up.

daveoline -

I too tried the suction cup - worthless on cracked an only pulled off the many layers of packing tape applied as suggested. Used edge of utility knife to pry it up, then helper placed another blade underneath until I could pry it open. Great suggestion I read elsewhere, and only way I could get cover off.

I too skipped step 25. Definitely requires patience! Screen replacement was successful, but noticeable degradation in screen clarity/color from the original is somewhat disappointing. At half the price of OEM repair, would probably do it again though.

matttaylor - Reply

If other people have this issue, I would try supergluing a screen protector over the old screen - leave a wide margin around the edges, home key, ear speaker. You could even just cut a piece of the protector into a square, or get a rectangle of shipping tape, the glued down portion needn't cover the whole screen. Then, glue the suction cup on top of the glued down screen protector or tape. I suggest this over the utility knife because it seems like the knife method would at the very least scratch up and nick the frame.

Caroline Russell -

i did this now i'm having a hard time putting the metal bracket back on :(

sineglabs - Reply

1) Set suction cup off-center & pry up a corner instead of trying to yank open the whole thing. Wrap fingers around the entire phone while pulling so you don't inadvertently pull the display too far off.

2) Use a spudger, credit card, or guitar pick to pry it up once you have enough room to do so - don't pull any more than necessary.

3) There's a thin rubber edge around the entire display that might separate & stick to the bottom section. It should stay with the phone.

4) Reassembly: There are small plastic tabs on the top edge that you need to properly reseat in order to fully close the phone.

seijihuzz01 - Reply

Image 1/1: Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly near the home button.
  • The front panel is attached with clips, and there are several ribbon cables connecting it to the rest of the phone. Your goal here is to release the clips and open the phone only enough to disconnect the cables. Go slowly and carefully to avoid damage.

  • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly near the home button.

  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the home button end of the front panel from the rear case.

  • With a plastic opening tool, gently pry the edges of the rear case down, away from the front panel assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

  • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The 5s front panel assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

Seriously consider the isclack. I have a lot of experience working with much more valuable equipment than a phone, and I had read all the precautions... but I broke the cable anyways. The isclack is specifically designed to open the phone but only wide enough to get the clips out, while saving your home button cable.

llcoreyll - Reply

Agreed. The suction cup method shouldn't be mentioned. I'm also extremely delicate with electronics and gently opening the display with a single suction cup is essentially impossible. The spudger needs to do all the work.

idmadj -

It may help to position the suction cup off-center and pull up one corner first.

Rosemary McNaughton - Reply

Avoid spudgers, guitar picks, and other weird inventions, just use your fingernails. That way you can feel what's happening, and you won't accidentally slide them in and break something. They won't break the plastic rim thingy either, in contrast with spudgers. That's what fingernails evolved to do, so just use them.

Konrad Tlatlik - Reply

Lol. Evolved fingernails to open phones.

Chal Miller -

Wrap a zip-tie loosely around the phone to avoid pulling the cover too far off and breaking the ribbon cable.

Thor Lancaster - Reply

Thank you for the zip tie suggestion!

W Fleming -

Zip tie is a brilliant suggestion. Very robust and safe way to pull the phone apart--I had mine wrapped just above the home button and kept the case from opening beyond about 1/8 of an inch.

bartonh - Reply

Used the suction cup and only my screen came up. Looks as though the screen delaminated from its black aluminum mounting tray. The home button stayed with the tray as well. Any ideas?

Kyle Rogers - Reply

I got the battery and fitting kit from ifixit. the blue plastic levers that were included were not up to the job as the blade just bent when any pressure was applied. carefully using my own screwdrivers completed the task.

adrt - Reply

Image 1/2: Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup. Image 2/2: Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
  • Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several delicate ribbon cables connecting them.

  • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

  • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Do not open the phone too far or you risk damaging the home button cable, or the socket it plugs into. '''Keep the cable loose—if it is stretched taut, that's too far.''' Image 2/3: Only the phone's original home button assembly will be capable of using the Touch ID functionality. '''If you rip the cable, installing a new home button will only restore ordinary home button functions, not the Touch ID features.''' Image 3/3: Use the tip of a spudger to push the bracket free and remove it with tweezers.
  • Open the phone just enough to reveal the metal bracket covering the home button cable.

  • Do not open the phone too far or you risk damaging the home button cable, or the socket it plugs into. Keep the cable loose—if it is stretched taut, that's too far.

    • Only the phone's original home button assembly will be capable of using the Touch ID functionality. If you rip the cable, installing a new home button will only restore ordinary home button functions, not the Touch ID features.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to push the bracket free and remove it with tweezers.

  • The next two steps apply to reassembly. Skip them and continue to Step 12 until reassembly.

I had put some what more pressure to suck and sensor cable got detached from upper part(display) , now what shall i do , how to fix it ?

Nikunj - Reply

Is the touch ID bracket really important or have any use ? I forgot to put it back… Is it going to malfunction ?

John Doe - Reply

mine did not appear to have a bracket.. I am wondering too if this is going to mess with it?

Donna Godfrey -

Mine also doesn't seem to have a bracket. Plus the cable unclipped itself when the screen shot free - yikes. Looks OK though. I guess I'll find out soon enough.

Gabe - Reply

I wrapped a velcro tie loosely around the phone so it wouldn't open up too far. (or could use a zip tie) Then while holding the screen down with one hand, I pulled the suction cup up with the other hand, using gradual pressure. while using a "wiggeling" upward pressure, I concentrated on raising the left side of the screen, which gradually started to loosen up. then I concentrated on the lower left corner until I had enough of a gap to work in the the flat surface of the plastic tool. I then pried on this corner. The screen then popped up without stressing the home button cable.


Harry Jones - Reply

I found that when replacing the plate/cover, a pair of needle nosed tweezers held the plate by the 2 holes rather than by the edges (it jumped out repeatedly). I have taken a picture but need to upload it if its required? I also found that taking the new battery out of it's wrapper once out the box has to be done very carefully as the ribbon cable caught on the wrapper so be warned...

andy - Reply

Image 1/2: Slide the top of the bracket over the Touch ID cable connector from left to right. Image 2/2: Slide the top of the bracket over the Touch ID cable connector from left to right.
  • During reassembly, you will need to reinstall the Touch ID cable bracket. The top of the bracket needs to slide between the battery and Touch ID cable connector, and the front must latch down over the connector.

  • Slide the top of the bracket over the Touch ID cable connector from left to right.

This is the hardest part lol

Bob smith - Reply

I concur! I think I need thinner tweezers.

FierDancr -

1) Reassembly: Note the orientation, 2 clips toward the battery, 1 clip toward the bottom of the phone. Mine didn't "latch down" or stay in place - it just sort of sat there.

2) Note that the rest of the bracket this attaches to must be removed from the Lightning Connector assembly & reattached to the new one.

3) I combined this repair w/replacing the battery, and smashed the bottom of the bracket under the battery/adhesive strips. Careful not to do that, so that you can actually complete this step.

seijihuzz01 - Reply

Comment above was made on the Lightning Connector replacement guide - I guess it got pulled over here since as well since the steps are identical ... Anyway careful not to smash the bottom bracket w/the replacement battery or adhesive

seijihuzz01 - Reply

That was fun without tweezers :)

olichtarski - Reply

Even with tweezers (the eyebrow kind) it was still an exercise in extreme calming techniques. I nearly gave up, but after 20 minutes I finally got it to seat and clamp.

natzulf -

It is fiddly and access is tight as all the connectors are in place. However, if you approach at the correct angle so that you are looking to latch the connector next to the battery first... Once this is in place and secure then gently push down the front of the bracket over the cable.

copeconsultancy - Reply

I think it's the pics and the word 'slide' that throws people off. I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place. Still the guide had this down for me in 30 minutes even with the 'hardest part' haha and the part from ifixit worked and looked perfect.

Brent Hillyer - Reply

Image 1/2: If the bracket does not snap down flush, you may need to remove the bracket and slide it over the cable connector again for a better fit. Image 2/2: If the bracket does not snap down flush, you may need to remove the bracket and slide it over the cable connector again for a better fit.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to snap the front portion of the Touch ID cable bracket down over the cable connector.

  • If the bracket does not snap down flush, you may need to remove the bracket and slide it over the cable connector again for a better fit.

It seems like a couple of these steps are reassembly steps? I wish they would label them as such. This step and step 10 are for reassembly, and it's confusing.

Sheldon Carpenter - Reply

Image 1/2: Be sure you're separating the cable connector from its socket, and not prying the entire socket up. The socket is on its own glued-down cable that can be pried up if you aren't careful. Image 2/2: Be sure you're separating the cable connector from its socket, and not prying the entire socket up. The socket is on its own glued-down cable that can be pried up if you aren't careful.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the home button cable connector up out of its socket.

  • Be sure you're separating the cable connector from its socket, and not prying the entire socket up. The socket is on its own glued-down cable that can be pried up if you aren't careful.

Upon reassembly, I found this easier once I was looking at the connection from the bottom of the phone, as pictured. I had been trying to line up the connector from the side. Once I put on magnifying glasses and had really good light, I lined it up and slipped my finger in for the click.

Oh, in a moment of relief after getting the cable connected, I quickly closed up the phone, forgetting to put the metal bracket covering the home button cable back on. I had to re-open the case. Don't be like me!

Keystone - Reply


The original part bends the bottom home button connector back on itself into a bracket you have to remove (not mentioned in later steps).

That bracket has a bit of adhesive to keep the bottom connector in place.

The replacement part does not come with a bracket, or additional adhesive, so the bottom connector flops around & can make reassembly a challenge. I found it was best to hold right edge of the bottom in place w/1 finger, and use a 2nd finger to slide the upper cable connector left to right and click it into place.

seijihuzz01 - Reply

Image 1/3: Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone. Image 2/3: Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables. Image 3/3: In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.
  • Once the connector has been released, pull the home button end of the assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

maak een constructie waar de iPhone in valt en waarbij het scherm in een hoek van 90 graden kan worden gefixeerd, dan hoef je drie kabeltjes niet los te maken. Is mij heel goed gelukt .

Joop Roos - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.

I don't see why steps 14, 15, and 16 are even necessary. I was able to remove the scene without removing the battery (skipping these 3 steps)

Luke Lin - Reply

Working on the phone without removing the battery will most likely damage the component. My OnePlus One runs extremely slow after working on it without removing the battery. I think it's a problem with the GPU, because the display was very slow to update the screen contents.

Peter Pan - Reply

Pan is right. Not removing the battery means you will run the risk of shorting some circuits not meant to be connected, and thus can damage those components. This can happen very easily, and without you even knowing it. Additionally, the internal components of a digital device are not meant to be disconnected while having any amount of power applied(and even though your device may not even turn on because the battery is completely shot, there very likely will still be a small amount of power coming from the battery to the internal components of the device). Doing so will likely cause an overcurrent condition that will damage the components of the device.

Jonathan Goldsmith - Reply

Now my problem, however, is that the screws on this bracket do not seem to want to unscrew. :(

Jonathan Goldsmith - Reply

Okay, the problem would seem to have been with the screwdriver that came with my iFixit battery "Fix kit". Tried another screwdriver, and no problems at all.

Jonathan Goldsmith - Reply

Phillips #000 provided with the iFixit repair kit does not fit the screws

Vitaly Kirichenko - Reply

I agree the #000 Phillips driver didn't work. I happened to already have a #0 Phillips that did work much better.

Bruce Peffley -

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Not clear to me why this and the next step are necessary for a screen replacement...

Daniel Goldschmidt - Reply

Image 1/2: Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely. Image 2/2: Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

pourquoi faire?

Alexis Camper - Reply

Image 1/1: One 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw
  • Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

    • One 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One more 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

      • This 1.7 mm screw tends to not be attracted to a magnetized screwdriver. Take care not to lose it when removing.

    • It is especially important to keep track of your screws in this step for reassembly. Accidentally using the 1.3 mm screw or one of the 1.7 mm screws in the bottom right hole will result in significant damage to the logic board causing the phone to no longer boot properly.

      • Be careful not to over-tighten the screws, and don't force them. If they don't fit easily when you are securing them, they may be the wrong size.

Two screws at the bottom should be the most short, two screws on top are the longest, you got it wrong.Please official verification again, and reply to me. Thank you!

CLAUDE - Reply

Hi Claude,

Unfortunately I forgot to check at dis-assembly which screw goes back where at step 11 so I ended up following the instructions although, I would find it logical that the longer screws are for the top and the shorter ones for the bottom holes, which is what you mentioned also . I anyway ended up following the instructions and all went well except that I am now unable to hear anything while in a phone call connected to the Bluetooth in my car. The phone connects, I have the battery and network status on the screen of my car, I can receive SMS on the car's screen, I can stream music to the speakers but I cannot hear anything while in a call. I can hear the call ringing in the car speakers, I can answer it but after that it's silent.

So, I was wondering:

1. Did you hear back on your comment from iFixit?

2. Did you install the screws back the way you mentioned in your comment? Did it work?

3. Did you check / note down the position of the screws at dis-assembly?

Thanks in advance.



corneliumusat -

so these are wrong?:


As they suggest the long screws go on the left...

holvoetsteve -

Can anyone answer if the blue strips on the crews indicate which screws they are? They are all so small it's hard to find the right lengths for each hole

Ariel Drotter -

Does anyone know if the blue strips on the screws indicate their length? I'm finding it very hard to distinguish the lengths

Ariel Drotter -

@Ariel - The blue that you are seeing on the screws is simply leftover loctite compound that is used to prevent the screws from working their way loose during every day use and does not give any indication as to the length of the screw. You should notice that, generally, you have two lengths of screws out of the 4 that came out...2 with longer threads and two with shorter threads. The two with shorter threads need to go in the bottom two holes...these two screws are not exactly the same length (difference of 0.1 mm), but mixing them up should not cause any harm to the phone due to such a small difference. With the two longer ones that are leftover, only one of them will be magnetically attracted to your screwdriver...this is the one that goes in the top left hole. The one that does not easily attract to your screwdriver goes in the top right.

iGuys -

Hi Everyone,

Claude is right, after re-arranging the screws so that the top two are the longest, bottom-right shortest and bottom left is the second-shortest the in-call audio came back with Bluetooth calls.

The same was found and posted by Pete on the Apple Support Communities forums and, as mentioned, I can also confirm that this fix works.

Hope this helps.



corneliumusat - Reply

The magnetic mat its priceless I found. As I removed screws, I placed on magnetic mat and labeled right away. Reassembly time was a breeze.

RayBob - Reply

Upside-down masking tape also works well, especially when labelled with corresponding step for each bit of parts!

W Fleming -

i did the battery replacement and now my gyro isnt working. I did not know the screws had different lengths. Think it will be ok if i take apart and put correctly or do i need a new logic board??

William Boggs - Reply

The two 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screws should be placed on top and the 1.2 & 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw at the bottom.

If you do not respect that order, the Bluetooth calls feature will not work anymore.

Please change all the versions including this step.

Louis Torres - Reply

I skipped steps 11-16 and that worked pretty well from me. On another commenter's advice, I simply used some packaging tape to tape onto the top of the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back of the phone to hold the display at a right angle to the rest of the device. Saved me all the trouble/risk of disconnecting the display, but if you use this method you should be VERY careful not to hit the display while removing the battery.

lambdahindiii - Reply

I completely agree with lambdahindiii, skip steps 11 - 16 completely. You do have to be careful not to flip open the display, but it's manageable with some care.

I will give disclaimer that I used 3.0x magnification with surgical loupes. Any kind of magnification will help. Also recommend using an LED head lamp for optimal illumination.

wmlee1 -

I'm going to upvote the suggestion to skip steps 11- 16 too.

Some things to look out for:

- Both the battery adhesive strips broke off for me so I had to pry the battery out. You do have to be careful as a good amount of pressure is needed to remove the battery that you don't twist the top display and break the connectors. It's just a trade-off of risks though - you won't have to worry about losing or inserting the wrong screws for the front panel connectors either.

- The metal connector over the touch ID button is hard to put back in. It looks like one piece on the video but it's a separate metal piece that goes over the connector.

- To open the case with the suction cup, I found it useful to place the cup more to one side, and lift that side up first and then work on the other side.

Take your time and good luck all

wilten -

I agree. The steps to remove the display are unnecessary. I skipped these and had no issues.

Matt Reier -

On my phone it actually seems like one of the 1.7mm screws is non-magnetic (the other 3 screws are magnetic). Although this could be a botched repair job from a previous owner...

I guess if it's intentional, it should be the top-right one, as that is closest to the compass IC.

woods81 - Reply

You're right. The top right screw must be non-ferrous stainless. I've repaired tons of the5-5s and that screw is never magnetic.


You are absolutely correct — the upper right one is the non-ferrous / non-magnetic one. I’ve made corrections to this guide and the guide for the iPhone 5 but each time the edits have been denied, once by @Reed Danis and the previous by @Walter Galan. Not sure why they’re denied — it’s obvious which one doesn’t stick to a magnetic screwdriver. This mistake makes these guides quite unreliable and will screw (ha) with the compass.

Drtofu -

Apparently it is non magnetic so as not to interfere with the compass. The iPhone 6 has moved tis down to the bottom near the battery connector.

Jack -

I was fixing a broken screen, when I noticed that the guy that had started the job before leaving it to me, had mixed up the screws for the battery that he changed by himself and step 11. So i started searching around for an answer when the startup just looped with the Apple logo. and I of course started here, and found out that he had mixed up the screws, but step 11 here, and the same step at this link:

shows two different ways to where the 1,2mm and the 1,7mm screws are being placed.

what is the correct way?

alexaamo91 - Reply

i had the 'blue screen of death' and here was my workaround:

Apple logo then blue screen

kgale4 -

I was wondering exactly the same thing why we need to un-screw the screen? Anyway place the screws in the order they come and you should find no problems putting them back in right order.

Also I found the screw driver comes with ifixit battery kit does not fit in the screws perfectly. Feeling a little large for these screws. Anyone else had the same experience?

fredhdx - Reply

The screw 1.7mm screw (highlighted green) was magnetic on the phone I repaired, while the standoff near it in step #27 was not (*see my note in #27). Either I have different parts or the magnetism note was swapped. If anyone else can confirm or deny this it’d help the guide. Thanks.

mnoivad - Reply

Invest in several colored Sharpie pens. When you see a red circle on the guide, tap that screw head with a red sharpie, orange, green, blue and so forth. This makes it almost fool-proof to not mix up your screws when re-assembling the phone or any other piece of equipment.

Pete H - Reply

I cannot unscrew the Philips #000 screws in this step using iFixit's Philips #000 screwdriver. The screw does not even turn at all. I wonder about the screwdriver iFixit is using in the video - . Can we buy it ?

Daylen - Reply

Putting the upper screws back in the bracket is a bit tricky--if you hold the screen at 90 degrees, the connector cables lift up the loose bracket, but if you lower the screen to allow the bracket to lay flat, you can't reach with a screw driver. Be very slow and patient and replace the upper left screw last (after the first three are tight)--these will hold down the bracket fairly well so you can aim the last (upper left) screw into the hole and push down as you tighten.

bartonh - Reply

So I managed to loose the top right (non magnetic) screw. I saw it fall to the table, but it's gone. Wonder if it fell back into the phone, as there is a slight rattle sound when I shake it. Will there be any big surprises if I just reassemble without that screw?

larserikkolden - Reply

If you keep the top steady these steps (17-22) could be skipped. That's how I did. Everything is ok.except screwdriver didn't undo upper one of the battery bracket I had to bend the bracket.

Mehmet Hakan - Reply

I noticed that reassembling my device, if the metal bracket touch the hole of the 1.3mm screw the touch stopped working. I had to put a little piece of plastic between the hole and the bracket unable to put the screw in (or it would make contact between the hole and the bracket).

Any suggestion?

denis.g.94 - Reply

Trying to get the screws into the holes and driving them in was extraordinarily challenging due in large part to their magnetic bond. Screws didn't want to leave the driver, once they were in they flew right back out as soon as the driver came within distance. To combat this, I suggest using a thin, clear tape (I used packing tape) cut into 4 strips and place each screw flat side down on one end of each strip of tape. Now you can easily maneuver and securely hold the screws into their holes as the driver pierces the tape easily screwing them in without losing them or your mind. Also, fridge magnets are good to retrieve screws that have fallen into iPhone's nooks and crannies, likewise from carpeting.

James Lee - Reply

If I messed up the screw placement, can it be redone and fixed by putting the screws back in prober order?

Colm Noone - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable.

The flat end of the spudger works great to position and press down on the connectors during reassembly.

Magnus Dalen - Reply

Image 1/2: When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery. Image 2/2: When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.
  • While still supporting the front panel, disconnect the LCD cable connector.

  • When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

When you reassemble the cables, you can align them with the sockets using the tip of your finger. A spudger or tweezers are way too clunky and is actually far more difficult. When the cable aligns with the socket, give it a firm push with your finger tip and you should be able to feel it click into place. This is actually a pretty tight mechanical fit and is fairly hard to dislodge.

Sheldon Carpenter - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Finally, disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

When re-assembling, this is the most difficult cable to re-align and re-connect. A second set of hands is helpful. If not available, be patient and line up the connector carefully. Once reconnected, use care not to 'open' the front cover beyond about 85° to prevent pulling this one back off... If you do, you will have to power-cycle the phone (disconnect the battery) to get things working properly again.

Pete H - Reply

I agree that this was the most difficult step during reassembly. I was trying to use the various tools, but shredded up some of the foam padding on the back of the connectors. After struggling with this for ~20 minutes, I realized just pressing each connector down gently with the tip of my finger snapped each one into place rather easily, no tools necessary.

ilsedorec - Reply

Had to try 4 times until I finally got it right, I would say that less than 80° works well for this step, just take your time and be patient with the screws

hermosillaignacio - Reply

It should be noted somewhere around these steps that all but one of these connections get removed.

The connection that is left goes to the Power Button, the Mute Switch, and the Volume Buttons. This connection is on the bottom left, below the LCD power connection.

This connector was not supposed to be removed, and I removed all of them as a force of habit.

Once removed, it seems I removed part of the other half of the connector along with the first half.

This has left my customer's iPhone functional, but none of the buttons, besides Home Button/TouchID), work.

In the long run, this is not a huge issue, as AssistiveTouch can emulate physical button presses. I just figured it should be noted.

Mikereilly2009 - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

I replaced my old battery with the one I bought here in iFixit. I replaced the battery according to the instructions of this guide (Using a guitar string did the trick when removing the battery) and finally assembled the sensor ribbon. Turned on the phone and SURPRISE! Error, Touch ID Does Not Work. I was disappointed, in the most part because I was extremely careful, it's not my first repair, and I did not break the ribbon, the Home Button was working properly.

I spent 4 hours re-seating the ribbon and putting in place the metal bracket.

For you guys, who have lost Touch ID but didn't break the sensor flex cable AND the Home button works, I thing I have found a SOLUTION:

As you can see in the picture (link below), a grounding Tip under the screw MUST be in THIS POSITION. If misaligned it will not work. Mine was misaligned during the display disassembly (STEP 16) and this was the solution. A smile returned to my face.


Oscar Vera - Reply Touch ID stopped working after I replaced the battery too and I did not harm the connector cable at all and the bracket was snug in position. Then randomly 2 days later it started working again with all my fingerprints remembered. Weird.

Bob smith -

Dear Oscar,

I am very interested in your comment but the photo is not available any more. Could you send the updated link?

Thank you very much,


Alex -

why cant u disconnect the lcd and just put the new one in reverse from step 16? wgy to step 32

Cameron Shelley - Reply

When you get the old screen off, check the frame edge where the digitizer rests. Mine was caked with gunk that had accumulated there from use. I gently used the tip of a spudger while holding the phone upside-down-ish and scraped out the gunk. Holding it upside-down kept the gunk from falling into the phone.

Sheldon Carpenter - Reply

Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Run the tip of a spudger between the battery and the headphone jack to unfold the battery adhesive tab.

When you put the new battery back in, it's important to fold that tab back down along the bottom edge of the battery--do not let the tab rest on top of the battery. If you do, that minute extra thickness is enough to press ever-so-slightly on the LCD and cause the LCD to exhibit color distortion when you press the home button.

bartonh - Reply

You can't really see it in these pictures, but there is a small hole at one end of the "pull tab". This is just the right size hole for the pointy end of the apple tool spudger, and thus is very handy for pulling the tab out.

Jonathan Goldsmith - Reply

Image 1/3: Cut the black battery adhesive tab between the two white adhesive strips, separating them. Image 2/3: Cut the black battery adhesive tab between the two white adhesive strips, separating them. Image 3/3: Cut the black battery adhesive tab between the two white adhesive strips, separating them.
  • Pull the battery adhesive tab away from the phone.

  • Cut the black battery adhesive tab between the two white adhesive strips, separating them.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Slowly pull one of the battery adhesive strips away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone. Image 2/3: Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip as it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less. Image 3/3: Guide the strip carefully around the corner and up the side of the battery. Be careful not to snag it on any of the other internal iPhone components.
  • Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

  • Slowly pull one of the battery adhesive strips away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

  • Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip as it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.

  • Guide the strip carefully around the corner and up the side of the battery. Be careful not to snag it on any of the other internal iPhone components.

  • The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling, re-grabbing the strip near the battery if necessary, until the entire strip comes free.

Watch how it is done in the video! I broke mine by continually "pulling straight up" and didn't realize you are suppose to follow the edge of the battery.

nickbits - Reply

+1. This guide should clarify the "pull around the corner" part. Preferably with pictures.

Seppe Stas -

Another vote for this! Watch the video to see how you pull the adhesive around the corners and sides of the battery!

Greg Matthew Crossley -

I had watched the video and I tried to work the strip around the sides, but couldn't get it to go without worrying it would tear on something. I just pulled up at an angle, slowly and steadily, and they both came out fine, like the instructions say.

Rosemary McNaughton -

The tape tabs broke almost immediately upon pulling up just a little bit (less than in the video). My phone is over 2 years old, and maybe the plastic weakens over time. I used a hair dryer on the back of the phone to soften the adhesive and the green prying tool in the iFixit repair kit to pry up the edge of the battery along the side wall of the back case. It bent the battery, but it worked to (slowly) pry the battery out without damaging the phone.

Bruce - Reply

I didn't have any sticky tape to hold the new battery in place, so I only removed the outside adhesive tab and left the inner one. This way I would 'lever' the battery out and the innermost tape-strip stayed in place, which was helpful to see the new battery in place. carefull though, you have to lever the battery out very slowly, very very slowly ... but it does work.

Niels - Reply

yeah this wrong. the video has it right. just toasted both of my strips, thanks!

mdelvecchio99 - Reply

there is no way these strips can be stretched (3y o phone) snapped immediately, plus 1st tore on non existent cover imediately

Gabe - Reply

I put on the radiator then used dental floss to start and then two iFixit cards together to pry from home button and outside edges. Didn't notice but I bent the little home button connector guard (not the cover - I didn't have one) but it seemed to make no difference, just bent it back.

Gabe - Reply

I also broke the sticky strips almost immediately so had to prise battery out. it bent a little but came out leaving the strips behind. this has the advantage of having the strips remaining to fix the new battery.

adrt - Reply

Same problem with strips breaking on a 2 yo phone. Might be a good idea to apply the heat BEFORE trying to pull on the ends.

donshaw1795 - Reply

Image 1/2: If you removed both strips successfully, skip the next two steps. Image 2/2: If either of the adhesive strips break underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove the remaining strip, and then proceed to the next step.
  • Repeat for the second strip.

  • If you removed both strips successfully, skip the next two steps.

  • If either of the adhesive strips break underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove the remaining strip, and then proceed to the next step.

You better heat this all up before you try to remove the glue strips. Mine broke off right away and then (after heating) you have to pry up the whole battery (mine was discharged completely so less risk) which tends to be glued so tightly that it all bents (not very safe for a Lithium Ion battery!).

Pieter Kerstens - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.

If you end up having to pry the battery out, put some paper between the bezel and the battery. Mine now has a little gouge that's visible just under the volume buttons.

lessawinston - Reply

The plastic strips quickly broke off. I used a neck warmer that you heat in the microwave for 90 seconds to supply warmth to the back of the iPhone to soften the adhesive (just lay the back of the phone down on the neck warmer). This allowed me to slip an old credit card slowly under the battery by wiggling it a bit from side to side, then gently lifting on the card. I peeled the adhesive residue very slowly off the case back with the flat end of the spudger, while still resting the back of the phone on the neck warmer to keep it soft.

Magnus Dalen - Reply

The strips quickly broke for me as well. I pryed the battery up using the flat end of the apple tool spudger, starting from the top of the phone, and slowly and carefully working my way to the other end. About halfway, enough of the battery was loose to allow me to use my hands to pry it the rest of the way off. Afterwards, I had to scrape the strips off until there was enough to pull them. When pulling them, keep them as close to the rear case of the iPhone as possible, and they come clean off.

Jonathan Goldsmith - Reply

And btw, the "iOpener" is pretty much the exact same thing as a neck warmer/heat pad. The same thing can also be accomplished by placing rice inside an old sock(make sure to tie the open end), and then heating that in the microwave for 1-2 minutes. This works as a neck warmer/heating pad, and so would work well for this as well.

Jonathan Goldsmith - Reply

Image 1/1: Do not pry against the logic board or you may damage the phone.
  • Flip the iPhone back over and insert a plastic card between the case side of the battery and the rear case.

    • Do not pry against the logic board or you may damage the phone.

    • Avoid prying at the top left near the volume controls, or you may damage the volume button ribbon cable.

  • Keep the card as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals or catch fire. Do not use any sharp tools to pry at the battery.

  • Press the card in farther to break up the adhesive behind the battery.

  • Alternatively, a piece of dental floss may be used to separate the battery from the rear case. A stronger alternative to dental floss is an unwound guitar string, such as a 0.009 E string from a 12-string set.

    • Thread the floss or string behind the upper battery corners, bring the ends together, wrap them around a folded cloth, and pull evenly.

I'm a little astounded no one has mentioned the importance of not using sharp tools at this juncture. With the adhesive failing to come off nicely, many will be tempted to get out the metal tweezers. DON'T. If the battery gets punctured, it WILL catch fire and destroy your entire phone. Use dental floss or credit card as suggested.

Angela - Reply

Angela is right. The battery will catch fire if you physically damage it. That's exactly what I did and I left a trail of smoke in my building's hallways as I ran outside with it. Amazingly once everything had cooled off, I was able to complete the job, because the battery catching fire took care of the %#*@ adhesive.

Brian Hill - Reply

Haha! Good work around!! :)

Jack -

If you are pulling an iPhone apart, Use an ice cube container for the screws. Draw yourself a plan if you must but I have done so many, I know what bits go in which hole.

Jack -

Pro tip: Use 2 cards together - slip one over the other. Start the process with dental floss…

Gabe - Reply

The adhesive strips broke almost immediately. Tried the dental floss trick a few times, credit cards, guitar pick, more floss, hair dryer, etc ... Bent & smashed the old battery to the point I was really worried it might explode. The only thing that really seemed to help was heating up the back of the phone first w/a hair dryer, then jamming plastic cards in from the corners, top & bottom (being careful not to bend or smash other things) until I was able to pry it loose.

seijihuzz01 - Reply

Image 1/3: When installing the battery, refer to [|this guide] to replace your battery's adhesive strips. Image 2/3: Perform a [|hard reset] after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting. Image 3/3: Perform a [|hard reset] after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.
  • Pull the battery out of the rear case.

  • When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips.

  • Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

A few things for reassembly:

To apply the adhesive strips, peel one side of the backing off, then without touching the strips put the whole thing adhesive side down where the old strips were, then pull off the remaining backing. If you pull the strips out first, they want to tangle up and become a blob. Trust me, I know. Sadface.

To reapply the tiny bracket that holds the home button's cable in place, put the side with the one tab in first, oriented towards the bottom of the phone, then press the top with the two cut outs into place. There's two tabs in the phone body that should line up with the two cut outs.

When closing it up, you have to slide the top of the screen flush into place before pressing the rest of the phone shut. If you don't, the top won't snap shut.

lessawinston - Reply

The easiest way I have found to install the home button clip is to hold it with needle nose tweezers and slide it in from left to right, holding it at about 45 degrees. once the back cutouts are aligned, push down on the font to clip it in to place. Hope this helps. (I've done hundreds and struggled until I found this trick). ;)

Jack -

Well, a couple comments:

1. Once I completed the battery replacement and put the iPhone back together, everything is working EXCEPT incoming call ring, in and out going mail & text message sounds. However, audio streaming works just fine!

> could this be the 4 screws in the wrong place? (I missed the screw detail the first time!);

> could this be a not completely seated connectors?

2. The iFixit instructions were incredible....however, one must read and reread the instructions to avoid "oops" situations.

pmilkes - Reply

pmilkes, the same with me. Everything ok except the loudspeaker. I just did the same thing wrong as you did. (I did not notice the 1,2mm 1,3mm and 1,7mm screws.

A good solution is appreciated.


By the way, my phone (iphone 5s) went complete in drinking water for three hours while I was asleep. And after 2 months I decided to change the battery. So now everything is working except the loudspeaker. (I already ordered for a replacement of that also)

thanks I fixit.

alperinugur - Reply

You may need to use tweezers to carefully bend the metal bracket to make it fit tightly into the slots over the home button connector

fredhdx - Reply

Am I supposed to reapply the old battery's adhesive strips to the new battery?

Dan Sota - Reply

Don't bother. It really doesn't matter.

Jack -

No. Use new strips only.

Magnus Dalen -

Ensure you position the new battery nearer to the side of the case to allow room for the connector wire to fold down in the gap on the right side.

Magnus Dalen - Reply


habe gerade meinen Akku getauscht, bei einem iphone 5s.

Ich habe die Schritte 17 - 22 in Zusammenhang mit dem einfachen Wunsch den Akku zu tauschen nicht für notwendig gehalten, vielleicht habe ich da ja auch etwas falsch verstanden... Ohne diese Schritte ging das ganze jedenfalls sehr fix von der Hand, Telefon läuft, Touch ID und Tonsignale, alles funktioniert.

Hat vielleicht gerade mal 20 min gedauert+++

Sehr schöne Anleitung und sehr gutes Werkzeug / Akku Set von ifixit!!! habe ich online bestellt, da passt dann wenigstens alles zusammen.

Großes Lob, DANKE

Dr B Schwarze

google - Reply


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery: Drain battery below 10%, then charge uninterrupted to 100%.

909 other people completed this guide.

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If the adhesive breaks without releasing, and you need to use a spudger or similiar to remove the battery, be VERY careful not to damage the Upper Component Cable.

Dave - Reply

This should've been included in the repair guide, as the adhesive tabs seemed designed to break. My phone is now in worse shape than it was and I'm facing what seems to be an extremely difficult repair, which I will probably not undertake.

winternick -

A couple of additional pointers might be helpful...

1: I did not get all of the adhesive out from under the battery. As a result, I bent the heck out of the battery & ordered a new one, not trusting a bent one. A mention of whether it would be safe would be nice.

2: I found it impossible to get the clip from step 7 back on. I left it off. If there's a trick to this, it would be nice to have that extra instruction with the reassembly instructions, rather than "reverse order."

3: While this is always a good idea, in the process of trying to get something done, it's easy to forget that you need to remember which screws go back where, especially the 3 different-sized screws from step 10. What an evil thing Apple did there! I laid the bracket upside-down on a piece of tape, and oriented the screws around it so I'd know where they go back upon reassembly a week later. A suggestion of doing something like this might be helpful.

4: I love my iFixit toolkits! But including a pair of tweezers in it would be helpful.

datamaestro - Reply

2. I found this piece "snapped" into place reasonably easily, but I was careful to get the orientation correct & make sure the edge against the battery pull was "in under" (for lack of a better term) and not trying to squash the battery pull down.

Hope this helps.

Dave -

1. With regards to the bent battery, you were right to replace it. LiOn Batteries are very dangerous when the cells inside are compromised. Even though the good ones have circuit breakers built in to prevent fire, they can fail. A LiOn battery - even a small one in an iPhone - can go "high order" and cause a fire that is next to impossible to extinguish. A brief search on YouTube for Lithium Ion Battery fires will quickly convince even the skeptical.

2. The way I keep track of screws... Get a complete set of all colors of Sharpie pens. When disassembling, I touch the screw head with the same color pen as the circle in the iFixit Guide. Then when reassembling I know where the green, orange, red, & blue screws go!

Pete H -

Pete H: simpler solution to the screw problem: get a fridge magnet rectangular, place the screws in the same orientation as the phone. problem solved :)

Christina -

When opening the front of the phone, there are two pieces of the front assembly the go to the edge - the glass, and a thin piece of plastic that sits behind the glass (and provides an edge). The glass is flexible enough to bend, leaving the plastic behind in some places. If you pry between the glass and the plastic, you will end up breaking the plastic. In my case I was replacing a cracked screen in addition to changing the battery, so this didn't really matter much since the plastic part that broke was part of the new screen assembly. But if you're just changing the battery, make sure you're prying up on the plastic as well as the screen.

I was not successful at getting the adhesive tabs to release the battery so had to pry it up with a spudger. If you do this, be aware there are device cables glued to the rear of the case near the top 2mm or so of the battery.

Finally the article notes potentially using tape to hold the battery - foam tape is too thick for this. I used no tape at all without issue.

storminmike - Reply

Are new glue strips really necessary? If they help with heat sinking a little or snugness, sure. But at the very least, adhering only the enclosure side of strip and not the battery would make it easier the next time with the same result. Anyone installed without? Thanks for the heads up.

Russell - Reply

The strips came off the battery and were still very sticky in the case. I just set the new battery on it. it was well stuck!

mdrace -

Thanks for the great guide. Apple definitely made this one more challenging than the 4 or 3!

I was quite surprised though to reach the end and find no help on actually installing the battery. It sure would be nice if you added a section at the end about installing the tape. And reminding people to remove the clear plastic wrapping from around the new battery if such exists. I know it did on my battery from iFixit. Again thanks for the great guide!

Joe - Reply

I was able to replace the battery and everything seems to be working fine but I have an issue with my home button. I've tried to reconnect the ribbon cable but hasn't helped me. The touch ID is working but pressing the home button doesn't do anything, also touching the home butting activates the Touch ID but also makes he phone think that I have the home button constantly pressed as it acticates Siri all the time. Any ideas on how to resolve this? I went to see the home button assembly guide to find tips but didn't see any. Seems like things aren't fully broken else the touch ID or the phone thinking I'm pressing the home button when I'm jut touching it also wouldn't work. Thanks.

axmxaxr - Reply

The PRO Tech kit was invaluable here. Especially the tweezers.

RayBob - Reply

I've been fixing iPhones for a couple of months for some friends and I whole heartedly agree the pro kit is invaluable. Best investment I've made.

Cam R -

Use tape to limit the amount the displayed can be opened. A inch of play should be sufficient. Use packing tape to keep the displayed open when discontenting and reconnecting the display connectors.

goldenimaging - Reply

That's an excellent tip. You should edit the guide.

idmadj -

The clip at step 8 is very difficult to reinstall, behind the connector you can see two little metal horns, the clip has two little slots, so i assume you should put the clip a little more inside , the problem is that the connector is soft and pressing on it does not offer much feedback, so you can't tell if it's ok or not, i hope i got it, but in the future if the phone makes a new rattle sound i'll know where to look :-)

My 5S was two years old and the adhesive strips both broke, i bent the old battery to take it off, however it really got loose when i heated it up on my heat gun, at 110C from the back of the battery.

I have done that while holding the phone in hand from the sides, so i can tell how hot it was, when i felt it was very uncomfortable to hold it was done, the battery went away quite easy, also the strip near the side remained intact, since in the battery that i bought there was no adhesive strips (it's optional?) i left that one inside and it worked quite well for the new battery.

Fabrizio Saglio - Reply

That battery tape is a pain to remove. Mine broke before I could pry it off. Thankfully a hair drier and running fishing line between the battery and the case did the trick. The recommendation of dental floss is a joke as the dental floss breaks.

colinfahrion - Reply

Great guides and great tools. Just be more patient on removing battery sticky part.

KUAN YEW - Reply

Great guide, I had this done in 30mins using the ifixit battery replacement kit. I've a background repairing laptops and I can see this would be tricky for someone with no experience. The existing adhesive teared away on me right away. I used the supplied green spudger and got it under the battery and very gently applied upward pressure using my thumb as a fulcrum point. After about 50 seconds the battery lifted out cleanly. The rest went to plan. Great little repair kit too, well worth the extra money to have the right tools. Thank you ifixit!

chrismaverley - Reply

"Just pull the adhesive strips off" Yea that's absolute bullshit if you're been using a phone for more than a month there is no way in !&&* those strips are coming off. Don't be afraid to be a little rough with the battery ripping it out, that's what I had to do. After fighting with the phone for ten minutes, everything is back together with the new battery and works absolutely fine.

twayneu - Reply

Overall this was surprisingly easy.

The only time I ran into trouble was when I was removing the adhesive. I snapped one side off but I just got a hair dryer and heated the back of the phone, used a credit card to work on the adhesive and eventually it came off. It's also a little tricky to re-attach the screen connector when reassembling. The connector is very fragile and easy to break I'm sure.

This only took me around 20 minutes and cost way less than taking it to apple.

Thanks ifixit for saving me some cash and making this easy. I'll be back.

colinsinclair12 - Reply

I disassembled my 5S. While removing the battery I ripped the outer cover and bent the battery. Is it still useable or must it be replaced?

Thanks in advance for any help you might offer.

bernieholland - Reply

Try it. If it works, you are lucky. If the phone won't start up, get a new battery.

Jack -

Replace it. Never re-install a damaged battery; it's not worth the risk.

Jeff Suovanen -

The step to heat the back cover and soften the adhesive should come before the step where the adhesive strips are removed by pulling. Otherwise, excellent guide.

jfpinkston - Reply

I used dental floss - had to double it - and that worked the best. However, as I lifted the end nearest the phone top, the very bottom part was still stuck, and that part bent away from the battery body, still attached. A voltmeter showed no charge on the little terminals, so I went ahead and ordered new battery. I found the directions about pulling the tab of the adhesive (after splitting it) later and will try that next time.

texboydmoore - Reply

Thanks for this Tutorial, works very well! nice work!

friederhaeberle86 - Reply far the most stress Apple related repair I've attempted. Sadly I have to say attempted. RIght out of the gate, I felt I was being so very careful, gently applying pressure to lift the glass to expose the touch sensor cable when the glass just released suddenly and the clip flew & the cable detached. *gulp*. I figured all was already lost but might as well proceed as if it went smoothly. Everything else did, especially removing the adhesive. Not an iota of trouble there. I was excruciatingly careful with the screws to make sure they were not mixed up. The reassembly seemed to go smoothly but upon powering it back on I had the white lines and resetting after a couple minutes. I took it back down a couple of more times to get to a clean display that functioned as it should and apart from the resetting every few minutes with a blue screen, all other functionality is intact. It sounds like long screw damage but they were not mixed up at all. Puzzled and bummed. So close. Tightened too much??

chdorr - Reply

Update: wondering if it's a heat inspired reset. I had the phone off all night and turned it on this morning and it's been on and used almost an hour with no resets yet. Hopeful but expecting it to reset when it heats back up. We shall see...

chdorr -

The same thing happened to me. I should have just had an expert do it. I was careful and got everything back where it was supposed to go. But when I turn it on then after a few minutes a blue screen appears and it resets. I retried connecting everything three times but still no luck. I was careful with the screws. The only thing I can conclude was that the screen connectors were damaged during the repair process.

jason -

There are several possible causes to the blue screen issue besides long screw damage discussed in this thread. Hope it helps.

Jeff Suovanen -

Watching the video and then following the guide made the process really simple. The hardest part was when one of the screws fell on the carpet and I had to use a strong flashlight and magnet to find it.

carlos cabrera - Reply

In my case this repair failed big time -- I would NOT recommend it to anyone. At least, I wouldn't call the difficulty "moderate" (which definitely was not the case with my 5s). I've replaced other parts before and I am not terribly clumsy , so I felt pretty confident before I started … until I came to the point where I had to remove the adhesive strips. I tried to be careful, I was patient, but they both torn apart. There was nothing I could do. I then needed a lot of patience + force to remove the battery from the strips; a process that ultimately caused the battery to catch fire, at least almost (plenty of acid smoke). In the process, and because of the longer break a had to take (smoke), I mixed up 2 screws -- which resulted, of course, in the "blue screen of death", i.e. a damaged logic board. I brought the phone to a local repair shop, but they only messed it up even more. Result: a phone that used to work fine is now complete garbage. What a frustrating experience.

Niko P - Reply

Do u guys ship to India?

knehgunlien - Reply

By far the most nerve-wracking Apple repair I've done. First, be very careful pulling the front panel up with a suction cup. Not sure how to avoid this without the iSclack tool, but my display separated slowly at first and then suddenly popped open to the limit of the home button cable. I didn't know till I finished whether I'd damaged this cable (thankfully I hadn't). But for me the hardest part was getting the old battery out. Both adhesive strips broke even though I was very carefully and slowly pulling them out. Then even after LOTS of hair dryer use, dental floss (kept breaking), and prying with a plastic card it still was barely budging. I could only get it out by using the flat end of the spudger and working it under one end of the battery, then forcing it further along (bending the battery a lot along the way). Fortunately the battery didn't rupture. New battery is now in and everything works!

kevludwig - Reply

My iphone looses charge quickly, at 30% it will totally shut down due to low charge. This guide save me from upgrading my iphone, I believe that iphone should lasts for 4-5 years before upgrading, upgrading the battery pack will give extra 2 years for iphone in my opinion, I just followed the video here, before you try to remove the adhesive from the battery, use first a hair dryer at the back of the phone, enough heat only till you can feel discomfort, heating it too much might risk for battery explosion. It is evident that the heat applied causes the battery to bent when you successfully removed the battery.

Those screws i used a 4 different color of marker pen, I marked all that hole plus the screws, in case they will be mixed up it will be easy to sort out.

I used a i-Slacker also, i dont want to take chances damaging the home button when prying it up. I-slacker did it perfectly.

Proceed with caution, if you are not confident, watch the video many times, and read all the comments here. It helps a lot.

John Mark Booc - Reply

This guide was very helpful. Completed successfully!

Second adhesive strip broke but I was able to pry the battery out very carefully with a plastic card.

JT Wieme - Reply

This is an excellent guide, thank you. My Bluetooth once again works over A2DP after rearranging the screws.

thefunksoulbrutha - Reply

I can't get one of the screws off in step 11!!! help!!

Rhiannon Desideri - Reply

Hi I tried this but after putting everything back together, my loud speaker and Touch ID don't work. Can anyone tell me why?

BMW Parts - Reply

I'm having the same problem - touch and speaker don't work. Did you every find an answer? Thanks in advance.

Dan Turner -

when lifting the screen i accidentally pulled it together too hard and disconnected the ribbon cable from the home button, is there any way to re-attach it??

Freya - Reply

I had an issue where my power button didn't work and the screen looked funny once I got it all put back together. For me the digitizer cable from step 15 was really hard to get back in all the way. I had to take it all apart again but it works fine now. What I did the second time was slightly lift the cable and make sure it did not come up with slight pressure. That let me know it was attached properly. Make sure all the cables are hooked up and not loose at all. Overall it was easier than I thought but there are alot of places things can go wrong. TAKE YOUR TIME!! :)

robertschurman - Reply

I was running iOS 9.0.2 Jailbroken when I replaced my battery. I'm not sure why, but I assume some security feature prevented Touch ID from being enabled again, I tried reseating many times, checking grounds as mentioned in another comment, hard/soft rebooting, nothing worked. Unfortunately my last resort was to restore in iTunes and upgrade to iOS 9.3.1. Touch ID works fine now as does everything else, but unfortunately I lost my jailbreak for the time being.

So before you start, I recommend backing up your phone BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING and if you have issues after try restoring.

Andrew LaMarche - Reply

Very unhappy

The repair was difficult, very difficult and time consuming. Mostly because the screws are tiny and are hard to work with, particularly putting back into the phone. The adhesive tape on the battery did not remove like the guide suggested it would, had to pry the battery loose from the phone which was very difficult. After replacing the battery and putting it all back together the phone now gets extremely hot (which is dangerous), has a weak cellular signal, and barely existent wifi signal.

Just take it in to apple for a battery replacement and save yourself the headache. I'm now out for the cost of this kit and will now have to buy a new phone since I voided the warranty by attempting this repair myself.

Frank Pigeons - Reply

It all worked pretty well except for the damaged home button functionality. Touch ID is still working but the home button is not reacting to any other input.

svenstaub - Reply

New iFixit battery is draining too fast. Three nights ago I successfully replaced the Lightning connector assembly and the battery in my wife's iPhone 5s. Immediately after reassembling the phone and turning it on I followed the instructions iFixit included with the new battery. The instructions were to drain the new battery to below 10% and then charge it uninterrupted back to 100%. Sitting idle with only the home screen on you can watch the battery drop a percentage point every 2 or 3 minutes. I found this DFU Restore help article but the article only lists "issue with battery" as a reason to perform a DFU Restore.

David Foltz - Reply

I've just replaced the battery in my 5s but now the phone doesn't appear to be charging, nor is it making the 'buzzing' feel when I plugged in the charger. I'm going to try not to panic too much and make my tea whilst I wait for the faintest signs of life appearing on the screen with it plugged in. Anyone else find this?

I'm pretty sure I've not damaged anything in the replacement although the sticky tape holding the battery in wouldn't pull out easily. I had to use a hairdryer to warm up the back of the phone.

Karina Townsend - Reply

Great instructions! Unfortunately, on step 21, I accidentally, removed the audio and power button cable connector. Now I cannot seem to get the audio and power button cable connector back on. Kind of a bummer not to be able to power my phone on and off. Any suggestions for reconnecting the audio and power button cable?

J F - Reply

If you mean this connector, it's just a matter of lining it up carefully and pressing it down so it snaps into place—the same as the other connectors in that series of steps. If you mean that you accidentally broke the connector socket off the logic board, I'm afraid that's a problem for a microsoldering expert.

Jeff Suovanen -

The guide is very helpful but I would suggest coloring coding the various screw with different colored markers so you do not get confused during reassembly. The glue tabs broke after a few seconds of lightly pulling on them. I used a hair dryer to heat up the glue and use a old best buy rewards card to slowly pry the old battery up. I also messed up the new glue when applying to the new battery so had to use double sided scotch tape to hold the battery in place. I have done a few repairs myself on my MacBook Pro and my iPod Classic, but this repair only took a total of 35 minutes. The repair was pretty easy and painless.

Sean - Reply

I just completed this and other than getting a little overzealous with the second strip and having to do the heat/pry method it went exactly as the guide said. I even took the shortcut in the guide and used rubber bands and a soup can to hold the display rather than removing it completely. The adhesive strips are different than the ones in the guide but it's not rocket science to figure out how they go on.

I'm VERY happy with iFixit (my second purchase) and the guides provided. KUDOS!!!

Paul - Reply

Vorsicht beim öffnen mit einem Saugnapf!! Dabei kann es passieren, dass man das Kabel des Homebuttons "abreist". Daher empfehle ich die Saugnapfzange, die bei iFixit angeboten wird.

Viel Erfolg beim Reparieren. ;-)

disentir - Reply

I don't know what but something went wrong. The home button AND the Touch ID of my iPhone 5s don't work anymore. Is there anyone that had the same issue? How did you solve?

frankieromiti - Reply

Can't believe managed this, what a sense of achievement, never thought mine would work properly. I used a suction cup but screen shot up and yanked the home button connector out. Fortunately not broken. Also, there was no connector cover.

Tips: I used a long fridge magnet and put screws in order of iFixit guide. Then replaced in reverse order. The fourth (non Magnetic) screw on the plate didn't seem to go back properly - I think the socket might have come out with the screw. Didn't seem to matter. The connectors are super fiddly but snap back in place. Helps to work out the positioning of components on underside so you know where to position when looking from top. I put everything on a big box on my desk to raise it to eye height (I'm v short sighted) that helped immensely. The digitiser connector cable (3rd removed near top) has a plastic ridge running down middle, and that fits into a slot in the socket - all 3 of those cable connectors snap shut. Dental floss, 2 cards and radiator heat for glue!

Gabe - Reply

I finished replacing battery for my iPhone 5S today, while there is trouble I encounter during repairing. The Philips screw driver came with the iPhone 5S Replacement Battery Fix Kit is actually too large to take those screw out. It seems to be working fine with two screws near the right lower bottom of my phone (close to speaker), but it doesn't fit for the ones on the metal covers that hold LCD screen assembly cable connector and battery cable to the logic board. I had to work with LCD screen cable connected since it was too much hassle to remove it. I pushed very hard to release battery cable cover screws and stripped one of the screw heads. Please change that Philips screw driver to the correct size.

Zili Qiu - Reply

when i took my 5s apart, i got the home button disconnected without a problem. powering the phone off was a problem,since the display is dead ,the whole phone was warm,i pushed the power button for a few seconds and slid my finger across the screen and it shut down and cooled off. removing the home cable went ok and the other cables . i use a refigerator magnet like businesses send out to hold the screws,works well one battery strip broke closer to the case side,was able to lift battery slightly and insert a credit card and ease it out.since the card was under the battery i pried against the back case with it ,not the circuit board. i use a pill bottle to hold small parts while waiting for parts ,for screws best to put back in where they go so you don't mix up or lose them.

keethpr - Reply

Thought all was good, but no reboot after completion. Guess I go back in and check all connections... Wondering what fail rate is out of ten.

Jeff Pietsch - Reply

I just &&^&^$^ ripped the home button cable ... nice

Jack Flynn - Reply

To open it up I lifted one corner, inserted my flat spudger slightly and moved it around to pop the tabs. I didn't take off the screen and just used my wireless speaker and a rubber band to have the screen at 90 degrees. Then the white strips snapped right away even at a low angle. So i used my hairdryer while covering the rest of the back of the phone with aluminum foil. Then I butchered the battery trying to take it out but it didn't catch on fire and burn my house down so I guess it went OK. Of course I also didn't have tweezers so putting on the Touch ID bracket wasn't great.

Before putting the phone together I turned it on and tried Touch ID but it didn't work the first time while presses did. So I reseated the cable before having to take it apart and putting the bracket on again.

olichtarski - Reply

Not my first repair of small delicate things, but I'll add my vote for the adhesive strips not coming out and then during the very slow process of trying to remove the battery it caught on fire and that was that. So, as someone else commented on --had a phone that kept a charge for a while but worked fine to having a replacement screen for someone else iphone 5s in the future. My wife was ready to kill me when this all happened.

wd5ivd - Reply

Amazing guide

Ahmad Bentaib - Reply

No problems following the directions. They are explicit. Worked perfectly on power up. Yea me!

Don't be in a hurry, don't drink a bunch of espressos before doing this. Go very slowly. Put all your screws down on white paper in orientation where they came out. Go very slowly opening the phone, It takes a little bit of force, but once it starts to open it will pry open just fine with a plastic smudger. The cables pop off easily but are difficult to get lined back up. Be careful of the connector next to the battery that sits near the 3 you'll remove, it may pop off too when you remove the battery. Getting the battery out is a PITA. Get the back of the phone HOT before trying to remove it. I found that using a pair of eyebrow tweezers worked great for getting that clip back on the home button connector.

I give it 5 out of 5. Bravo! Saved me a bunch of d'oh and dough.

scottcnevin - Reply

Assembled the iPhone twice but I still only have the gray opening apple screen. What did I do wrong? My phone won't turn off either. As soon as i completed the first try, I hit the home button and the gray apple screen came on. No matter what I did, the screen stayed on even during the second try.

2cats2love - Reply

Great instructions, if followed and time is taken moderate to easy DIY job.

I did not have a Spudger nor a new Battery Adhesive strip - didn't matter though as I used the blow dryer rather than removing as in video, and re-used the old and worked just fine.

As for a Spudger, save yourself and instead use a hair pin..yeh hair pin :p They are small enough and coated with a glue compound that is perfect for removing all connectors required to complete this job.

David Rossignol - Reply


bei mir hat es super funktioniert. Hatte mir das Replacement Kit mit Akku und Werkzeug von ifixit bestellt, dazu sollte man eine spitze Pinzette und eine Schere bereitlegen. Die Klebestreifen sind mir prompt abgerissen, man muss sehr aufpassen, dass man damit nicht an einer der Ecken oder feinen Drähte hängen bleibt, von da aus reissen sie dann ein. Also mit dem Fön die Rückseite erwärmt, und mit zwei Kärtchen a la KV-Karte (eine allein ist zu weich) den Akku rausgehebelt. Der alte Akku ist dabei total verbogen, war nicht sehr elegant. Der Zusammenbau hat gut geklappt, jetzt noch den Akku voll laden, und hoffen, dass dann wieder laufzeitmäßig Ruhe ist.

Etwas pummelig ist die Klammer am Schluss auf den Anschluss des Home-Buttons drauf zu Klipsen, Man muss dabei erst das Blech auf der Oberkante einhängen, dann nach unten klappen und einschnappen.

Eingeschaltet und erstmal keinen Unterschied gemerkt, Akku meldet 46%. Also jetzt laden und dann weitersehen.

Danke Sam, Danke ifixit!

Moldy Snoopy - Reply

I just finished replacing in battery in my wife's iPhone 5s. This is my first project with ifixit. I went by the video, not realizing the guides were available until I had completed it and was about to turn it on. I was HORRORIFED to learn the fours screws at top that hold down the screen connectors are DIFFERENT SIZES and have to go back into the hole they came out of or it could DAMAGE THE LOGIC BOARD!!!! That was never mentioned in the video!! The phone seems very slow down and is not downloading quickly on a known fast connection so I am not happy that such a critical detail was passed over in the video. Perhaps I have damaged the logic board after all.

David Gibson - Reply

Not a fan on the video, Have the iPhone 5S, Model A1429, much easier as no home screen cable to be concern with, Battery fit good and plastic pry tool worked well also.

hugh wax - Reply

A1429 is actually an iPhone 5—similar to the 5s, but we have a different guide for it. ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

Plus - maybe note the top of the iPhone has tabs that slide under the aluminum frame, small detail but good to know.

hugh wax - Reply

Thanks for this! Pretty intense task. Had to recheck the connections when after the first try the touchscreen didn't respond. Wouldn't like to open and close the front repeatedly. All the tools from repair kit were necessary plus pincers for sliding back the home button cable bracket. Another one of the adhesive tapes under battery didn't come out and basically had to dig the old battery out – which certainly butchered the polymere battery for good, I guess. It's soft. If you would like to put the same battery back for some reason, make sure you don't use force nor pointy tools.

Jaakko Lehtonen - Reply

What did you do to correct the unresponsive touch screen?

sumira -

Do I actually need the battery adhesive strips when i replace battery?

Michael Lombardi - Reply

I watched the ifixit videos, read the instructions, and most importantly I read what the people said after replacing the battery. I found out there are three reasons why the home repairs go wrong. (1) The first is not keeping track of the screws. They are of different lengths, and putting a long screw where it does not belong will ruin the motherboard. Mark them with colored sharpies. (2) The second is not being able to remove the tape that is holding the battery. Use the heat gun!!! I broke the second tape even with the heat gun, and I had to use a credit card to pry it out. (3) The last one is not insulating the battery connector. A metal battery bracket (Step 15) goes over the battery connector, and it will short the battery. Put an electric tape over the battery connector. I think the third reason is why the phone starts acting crazy.

Mark dagyroid - Reply

Really useful, now my iPhone is back to life :D

Martin Morgado - Reply

This guide is very good but I still wasn't sure about a few details. But by watching some videos, including the one at the beginning of this guide, and reading some of the comments on this guide I was able to figure everything out. I went very slowly (the entire process took me about 5 hours), paying close attention to every detail. One of the adhesive strips broke when I was removing the old battery, but the dental floss trick worked very well. I'm glad this guide mentions the different lengths of the screws holding down the bracket over the front panel assembly connectors. I might have mixed them up if I didn't know they are different lengths. I had some trouble with the new adhesive strips, but I was able to get them to work even though they weren't installed exactly like the battery adhesive strips guide says to install them (you don't get a second chance with the strips).

David Erickson - Reply

I was completely successful, although it was rather harder than indicated. Took me about 2 hours.

The battery replacement is different than illustrated if you buy the iPhone 5s battery replacement kit from iFixit: If I bought a repair kit, I'd very much like to see it illustrated exactly. There is a good way to install the battery replacement kit that does not appear to be documented, which guarantees proper placement of the battery such that the power connector is in the right place. It would also be good to have a little more guidance up-front for treatment of the battery cable. It takes a little careful folding, and there's also a little routing of the antenna cable that needs mentioning.

The touch id cable bracket reattachment is a little glossed over. There are two tiny tabs on the socket that fit into two tiny holes in the bracket, and then you just snap it down the tabs and holes acting as hinges.

Dan - Reply

A very useful guide which I carefully followed to a successful battery change. I didn't remove the screen cables as that looked very fiddly. Instead I opened the screen to 90 degrees and used 2 rubber bands to secure it to the original phone box with a piece of foam between. That was a very steady way to ensure I didn't damage the cables.

adrt - Reply

OMG. The instructions worked great, thank you! Now that the phone is fully buttoned up and running, time to clean up my mess and "recycle" the old battery.

wait...the old battery says "IFIXIT replacement battery"...WHYYYYYYYYYYY.

do NOT drink alcohol and watch venture brothers while performing this procedure.

nova noon - Reply

Followed all instructions. Phone turns on fine and I even received a text, however, my touch screen is completely inresponsive. What should I go back and check? The four screws? The three attachments under that metal plate. This is my first apple repair and I was definitely in over my head. Anything helps. thank you.

Lindsey Bates - Reply

well be carefull when removing the battery , i was not sucessfull with the adhesive removal and then i tried several times and succeded , but at the top most part , there is a little black mat like little buses , unfortunately , i ruined that half way , it was linked to the volume and the vibration tab together with the lock screen , so now i can not on my phone nor off , i can not add volume not nor reduce nor put vibration , i have to do that on settings , well be carefull with that black mat

franck ludovic - Reply

Thank you so much for the help, I now have a mobile phone again instead of a car phone. Quick question though, I begin to experience an intermittently unresponsive touchscreen afterwards that is now now responding at all. I am unsure if the two are related but after chatting with folks, I was advised that perhaps something I did during the battery replacement is responsible. I have checked the digitalized cable connection and DFU mode. Do you have any advice?

sumira - Reply

when the adhesive strips are broken , you can try using fishing line to remove the adhesive from under the battery -

also this method using steel wire seems even better -

Sebastian Edinger - Reply

Thank you. Great instructions. I bought your kit and was well worth it. Now I'll do my other iPhone 5s. The tricky part is putting the screws back in on the cable retainer since they are all different sizes and one is not magnetic. Also, folding the battery cable to mimic the original battery. It just feels wrong. use a plastic plunger.

rsimoes - Reply

This was an excellent easy method to just follow the video pause at each step and then continued to see each step done. Only problem I had was dropping one of the screws that hold the battery cable. Thank is not a good idea in case you are wondering.

shorttoes1 - Reply

Comme toujours, un tutoriel très bien fait qui m'a permis de redonner vie à un iPhone 5S à moindre frais.

Merci iFixit !

DeNiS SaNNoM - Reply

Hey everyone! I just changed my phones battery and put everything back but now all i can see is a black screen. My phone seems to be charging and my itunes on the computer can detect that the phone is on but all I can see is a black screen. Does anyone know what the problem is?

Kahwan Eliza - Reply

So I did this and now my phone doesn't read the battery correctly. It randomly shuts off and doesn't charge right. Did I break something or do I have a bad battery? Besides the issue your write up was on point. Thanks

Theodore Tripp - Reply

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