iPhone 5s Battery Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Replace the battery in your iPhone 5s.

Use this guide to bring life back to your iPhone 5s with a new battery.

Removing the battery with the adhesive strips is the safest method, but also leaves your battery without adhesive. When replacing your battery, use a piece of double-sided tape to secure it. The battery is pretty tightly secured in the device, but the tape will keep it from rattling.

Edit Step 1 Front Panel Assembly  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Front Panel Assembly  ¶ 

  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.9 mm Pentalobe screws from either side of Lightning connector.

Edit Step 3 iSclack Opening Procedure  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3 iSclack Opening Procedure  ¶ 

  • The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5s that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to step 5.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

    • The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the home button cable.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on step 8.

Edit Step 5 Manual Opening Procedure  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5 Manual Opening Procedure  ¶ 

  • If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

  • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

  • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • The front panel is attached with clips, and there are several ribbon cables connecting it to the rest of the phone. Your goal here is to release the clips and open the phone only enough to disconnect the cables. Go slowly and carefully to avoid damage.

  • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly near the home button.

  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the home button end of the front panel from the rear case.

  • With a plastic opening tool, gently pry the edges of the rear case down, away from the front panel assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

  • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The 5s front panel assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several ribbon cables still attached at the top of the iPhone.

  • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

  • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Open the phone just enough to reveal the metal bracket covering the home button cable.

  • Do not open the phone too far or you risk damaging the home button cable, or the socket it plugs into. Keep the cable loose—if it is stretched taut, that's too far.

    • Only the phone's original home button assembly will be capable of using the Touch ID functionality. If you rip the cable, installing a new home button will only restore ordinary home button functions, not the Touch ID features.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to push the bracket free and remove it with tweezers.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the home button cable connector up out of its socket.

  • Be sure you're separating the cable connector from its socket, and not prying the entire socket up. The socket is on its own glued-down cable that can be pried up if you aren't careful.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Once the connector has been released, pull the home button end of the assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

  • During the next few steps, until you remove the front panel assembly, keep it supported at a 90º angle in relation to the rear case.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Two 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screws

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw

      • This 1.3 mm screw tends to not be attracted to a magnetized screwdriver. Take care not to lose it when removing.

    • It is especially important to keep track of your screws in this step for reassembly. Accidentally using the 1.3 mm screw or one of the 1.7 mm screws in the bottom right hole will result in significant damage to the logic board causing the phone to no longer boot properly.

    • Be careful not to over-tighten the screws. If they don't fit easily when you are securing them, they may be the wrong size, don't force them

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • While still supporting the front panel, disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Finally, disconnect the LCD cable connector.

  • When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Edit Step 17 Battery  ¶ 

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Edit Step 17 Battery  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Run the tip of a spudger between the battery and the headphone jack to unfold the battery adhesive tab.

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Pull the battery adhesive tab away from the phone.

  • Cut the black battery adhesive tab between the two white adhesive strips, separating them.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Pull the innermost tab evenly straight up.

  • Do not twist the tab; try to keep the adhesive strip as flat and wide as possible. When the adhesive bunches up it tends to tear.

  • Be sure you do not pull the tab against any of the components of the phone; they may puncture the adhesive and cause the strip to tear.

  • Pull the battery tab at about a 45º angle until the strip is entirely freed from the phone.

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Pull the outside battery adhesive tab straight up and out until it is freed from the phone.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Flip the iPhone back over and insert a plastic card between the case side of the battery and the rear case.

    • Do not pry against the logic board or you may damage the phone.

  • Be careful to keep the card as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals.

  • Press the card in farther to break up the adhesive behind the battery.

  • A piece of dental floss may be used to work between the battery and adhesive strip. A stronger alternative to dental floss, which may break, is an unwound guitar string, such as a 0.009 E string from a 12-string set. Thread around upper battery corners, bring ends together, wrap around a folded cloth, and pull evenly.

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Pull the battery out of the rear case.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPhone 5s device page.

Required Tools

Tweezers

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Tweezers

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Tweezers

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Cards

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Related Products

iPhone 5s Replacement Battery

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

If the adhesive breaks without releasing, and you need to use a spudger or similiar to remove the battery, be VERY careful not to damage the Upper Component Cable.

https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

Dave, · Reply

A couple of additional pointers might be helpful...

1: I did not get all of the adhesive out from under the battery. As a result, I bent the heck out of the battery & ordered a new one, not trusting a bent one. A mention of whether it would be safe would be nice.

2: I found it impossible to get the clip from step 7 back on. I left it off. If there's a trick to this, it would be nice to have that extra instruction with the reassembly instructions, rather than "reverse order."

3: While this is always a good idea, in the process of trying to get something done, it's easy to forget that you need to remember which screws go back where, especially the 3 different-sized screws from step 10. What an evil thing Apple did there! I laid the bracket upside-down on a piece of tape, and oriented the screws around it so I'd know where they go back upon reassembly a week later. A suggestion of doing something like this might be helpful.

4: I love my iFixit toolkits! But including a pair of tweezers in it would be helpful.

datamaestro, · Reply

2. I found this piece "snapped" into place reasonably easily, but I was careful to get the orientation correct & make sure the edge against the battery pull was "in under" (for lack of a better term) and not trying to squash the battery pull down.

Hope this helps.

Dave,

1. With regards to the bent battery, you were right to replace it. LiOn Batteries are very dangerous when the cells inside are compromised. Even though the good ones have circuit breakers built in to prevent fire, they can fail. A LiOn battery - even a small one in an iPhone - can go "high order" and cause a fire that is next to impossible to extinguish. A brief search on YouTube for Lithium Ion Battery fires will quickly convince even the skeptical.

2. The way I keep track of screws... Get a complete set of all colors of Sharpie pens. When disassembling, I touch the screw head with the same color pen as the circle in the iFixit Guide. Then when reassembling I know where the green, orange, red, & blue screws go!

boxav8r,

When opening the front of the phone, there are two pieces of the front assembly the go to the edge - the glass, and a thin piece of plastic that sits behind the glass (and provides an edge). The glass is flexible enough to bend, leaving the plastic behind in some places. If you pry between the glass and the plastic, you will end up breaking the plastic. In my case I was replacing a cracked screen in addition to changing the battery, so this didn't really matter much since the plastic part that broke was part of the new screen assembly. But if you're just changing the battery, make sure you're prying up on the plastic as well as the screen.

I was not successful at getting the adhesive tabs to release the battery so had to pry it up with a spudger. If you do this, be aware there are device cables glued to the rear of the case near the top 2mm or so of the battery.

Finally the article notes potentially using tape to hold the battery - foam tape is too thick for this. I used no tape at all without issue.

storminmike, · Reply

Are new glue strips really necessary? If they help with heat sinking a little or snugness, sure. But at the very least, adhering only the enclosure side of strip and not the battery would make it easier the next time with the same result. Anyone installed without? Thanks for the heads up.

Russell, · Reply

The strips came off the battery and were still very sticky in the case. I just set the new battery on it. it was well stuck!

mdrace,

Thanks for the great guide. Apple definitely made this one more challenging than the 4 or 3!

I was quite surprised though to reach the end and find no help on actually installing the battery. It sure would be nice if you added a section at the end about installing the tape. And reminding people to remove the clear plastic wrapping from around the new battery if such exists. I know it did on my battery from iFixit. Again thanks for the great guide!

Joe, · Reply

I was able to replace the battery and everything seems to be working fine but I have an issue with my home button. I've tried to reconnect the ribbon cable but hasn't helped me. The touch ID is working but pressing the home button doesn't do anything, also touching the home butting activates the Touch ID but also makes he phone think that I have the home button constantly pressed as it acticates Siri all the time. Any ideas on how to resolve this? I went to see the home button assembly guide to find tips but didn't see any. Seems like things aren't fully broken else the touch ID or the phone thinking I'm pressing the home button when I'm jut touching it also wouldn't work. Thanks.

axmxaxr, · Reply

The PRO Tech kit was invaluable here. Especially the tweezers.

RayBob, · Reply

Use tape to limit the amount the displayed can be opened. A inch of play should be sufficient. Use packing tape to keep the displayed open when discontenting and reconnecting the display connectors.

goldenimaging, · Reply

The clip at step 8 is very difficult to reinstall, behind the connector you can see two little metal horns, the clip has two little slots, so i assume you should put the clip a little more inside , the problem is that the connector is soft and pressing on it does not offer much feedback, so you can't tell if it's ok or not, i hope i got it, but in the future if the phone makes a new rattle sound i'll know where to look :-)

My 5S was two years old and the adhesive strips both broke, i bent the old battery to take it off, however it really got loose when i heated it up on my heat gun, at 110C from the back of the battery.

I have done that while holding the phone in hand from the sides, so i can tell how hot it was, when i felt it was very uncomfortable to hold it was done, the battery went away quite easy, also the strip near the side remained intact, since in the battery that i bought there was no adhesive strips (it's optional?) i left that one inside and it worked quite well for the new battery.

Fabrizio Saglio, · Reply

That battery tape is a pain to remove. Mine broke before I could pry it off. Thankfully a hair drier and running fishing line between the battery and the case did the trick. The recommendation of dental floss is a joke as the dental floss breaks.

colinfahrion, · Reply

Great guides and great tools. Just be more patient on removing battery sticky part.

KUAN YEW, · Reply

Great guide, I had this done in 30mins using the ifixit battery replacement kit. I've a background repairing laptops and I can see this would be tricky for someone with no experience. The existing adhesive teared away on me right away. I used the supplied green spudger and got it under the battery and very gently applied upward pressure using my thumb as a fulcrum point. After about 50 seconds the battery lifted out cleanly. The rest went to plan. Great little repair kit too, well worth the extra money to have the right tools. Thank you ifixit!

chrismaverley, · Reply

"Just pull the adhesive strips off" Yea that's absolute bullshit if you're been using a phone for more than a month there is no way in !&&* those strips are coming off. Don't be afraid to be a little rough with the battery ripping it out, that's what I had to do. After fighting with the phone for ten minutes, everything is back together with the new battery and works absolutely fine.

twayneu, · Reply

Overall this was surprisingly easy.

The only time I ran into trouble was when I was removing the adhesive. I snapped one side off but I just got a hair dryer and heated the back of the phone, used a credit card to work on the adhesive and eventually it came off. It's also a little tricky to re-attach the screen connector when reassembling. The connector is very fragile and easy to break I'm sure.

This only took me around 20 minutes and cost way less than taking it to apple.

Thanks ifixit for saving me some cash and making this easy. I'll be back.

colinsinclair12, · Reply

My phone was too shattered to grip with my "Pump'itup" iFixit suction cup, and the method of adding packing tape over the display did not work either (still too lumpy). I ended up epoxying two 5" x 3/4" pieces of wood trim strips directly to the face of the phone, avoiding the Home switch and any seams, and positioning the wood to overhang the phone by ~2 inches. After 30 minutes of setting, I was able to lift up on the overhanging wood strips and pop the face of the phone out of the housing.

cpwittenberg, · Reply

Use a Stanley knife to push in between the back housing and the frame in the bottom left and corner and gently leaver up.

Much easier Than using suction cup but may slight scratch the frame or housing.

Craig Matthews,

Removed board. I ended up with a small shiny metal plate. Shown clearly in the above last posted photos just under the power button switch. Where does this goes?

Malcolm, · Reply

I was wondering the same thing. Did you ever figure out where this goes?

paul,

This has probably been replied to, but see step 31 :) Should be re installed with the pokey out bits pointing down.

daveoline,

Can someone please help me. I went through all of the steps and now my phone screen is all white and I can't see anything.

Lukeapple1414, · Reply

First try a hard reset by holding down both the power button and the home button at the same time for at least 10 seconds. If that doesn't work, get back inside the phone and reseat the connectors. If the problem persists, either you received a bad part, or the part was damaged during installation.

iGuys,

My screen was too broken and the suction cup would not stick. I too a piece of Gorilla duct-tape and stuck it to itself and then also to the screen so that it made a "Tab" that I could pull up on. This worked much better than the suction cup.

Nathan, · Reply

@malcom @paul if you are referring to step 31 the plate needs to be placed as it comes out on the picture. Long flat part towards the top of the casing with the tab facing the right.

hari, · Reply

In my case, i found it easier to remove the sim - not sure if this was a placebo effect, but there you go!

also, there is a rubber seal around the screen - my experience is it should stay of the display, not on the main body.

Robert Colvin, · Reply

The amount of force I applied to open the case using the suction cup manually ended up tearing out the home button cable...ripping it in the process. Goodbye TouchID...see you next generation T_T

I would definitely recommend buying a stupid iSclack. I don't know why they'd even present the suction cup as an option. Maybe the 5S opens more easily when it's new. Now I need to decide between dropping more money on a new home button (and iSclack this time) or just hold out with the software home button.

johnsonjohnr, · Reply

Just lift slightly using the suction cup and on the bottom edge of the screen over to the left you'll see a slight gap open up just enough to get the spudger in. Don't use the suction cup to release the entire display assembly, just work around the edge with a spudger. This also helps clear some of the dirt build up.

daveoline,

I too tried the suction cup - worthless on cracked an only pulled off the many layers of packing tape applied as suggested. Used edge of utility knife to pry it up, then helper placed another blade underneath until I could pry it open. Great suggestion I read elsewhere, and only way I could get cover off.

I too skipped step 25. Definitely requires patience! Screen replacement was successful, but noticeable degradation in screen clarity/color from the original is somewhat disappointing. At half the price of OEM repair, would probably do it again though.

matttaylor, · Reply

Two screws at the bottom should be the most short, two screws on top are the longest, you got it wrong.Please official verification again, and reply to me. Thank you!

CLAUDE, · Reply

Hi Claude,

Unfortunately I forgot to check at dis-assembly which screw goes back where at step 11 so I ended up following the instructions although, I would find it logical that the longer screws are for the top and the shorter ones for the bottom holes, which is what you mentioned also . I anyway ended up following the instructions and all went well except that I am now unable to hear anything while in a phone call connected to the Bluetooth in my car. The phone connects, I have the battery and network status on the screen of my car, I can receive SMS on the car's screen, I can stream music to the speakers but I cannot hear anything while in a call. I can hear the call ringing in the car speakers, I can answer it but after that it's silent.

So, I was wondering:

1. Did you hear back on your comment from iFixit?

2. Did you install the screws back the way you mentioned in your comment? Did it work?

3. Did you check / note down the position of the screws at dis-assembly?

Thanks in advance.

Regards,

Cornel.

corneliumusat,

Hi Everyone,

Claude is right, after re-arranging the screws so that the top two are the longest, bottom-right shortest and bottom left is the second-shortest the in-call audio came back with Bluetooth calls.

The same was found and posted by Pete on the Apple Support Communities forums and, as mentioned, I can also confirm that this fix works.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Cornel.

corneliumusat, · Reply

The magnetic mat its priceless I found. As I removed screws, I placed on magnetic mat and labeled right away. Reassembly time was a breeze.

RayBob, · Reply

i did the battery replacement and now my gyro isnt working. I did not know the screws had different lengths. Think it will be ok if i take apart and put correctly or do i need a new logic board??

William Boggs, · Reply

The two 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screws should be placed on top and the 1.2 & 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw at the bottom.

If you do not respect that order, the Bluetooth calls feature will not work anymore.

Please change all the versions including this step.

Johnny Dopp, · Reply

I skipped steps 11-16 and that worked pretty well from me. On another commenter's advice, I simply used some packaging tape to tape onto the top of the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back of the phone to hold the display at a right angle to the rest of the device. Saved me all the trouble/risk of disconnecting the display, but if you use this method you should be VERY careful not to hit the display while removing the battery.

lambdahindiii, · Reply

On my phone it actually seems like one of the 1.7mm screws is non-magnetic (the other 3 screws are magnetic). Although this could be a botched repair job from a previous owner...

I guess if it's intentional, it should be the top-right one, as that is closest to the compass IC.

woods81, · Reply

You're right. The top right screw must be non-ferrous stainless. I've repaired tons of the5-5s and that screw is never magnetic.

BJS,

I was fixing a broken screen, when I noticed that the guy that had started the job before leaving it to me, had mixed up the screws for the battery that he changed by himself and step 11. So i started searching around for an answer when the startup just looped with the Apple logo. and I of course started here, and found out that he had mixed up the screws, but step 11 here, and the same step at this link: http://www.irepairnational.com/iphone-5s...

shows two different ways to where the 1,2mm and the 1,7mm screws are being placed.

what is the correct way?

alexaamo91, · Reply

When re-assembling, this is the most difficult cable to re-align and re-connect. A second set of hands is helpful. If not available, be patient and line up the connector carefully. Once reconnected, use care not to 'open' the front cover beyond about 85° to prevent pulling this one back off... If you do, you will have to power-cycle the phone (disconnect the battery) to get things working properly again.

boxav8r, · Reply

I agree that this was the most difficult step during reassembly. I was trying to use the various tools, but shredded up some of the foam padding on the back of the connectors. After struggling with this for ~20 minutes, I realized just pressing each connector down gently with the tip of my finger snapped each one into place rather easily, no tools necessary.

ilsedorec, · Reply

I replaced my old battery with the one I bought here in iFixit. I replaced the battery according to the instructions of this guide (Using a guitar string did the trick when removing the battery) and finally assembled the sensor ribbon. Turned on the phone and SURPRISE! Error, Touch ID Does Not Work. I was disappointed, in the most part because I was extremely careful, it's not my first repair, and I did not break the ribbon, the Home Button was working properly.

I spent 4 hours re-seating the ribbon and putting in place the metal bracket.

For you guys, who have lost Touch ID but didn't break the sensor flex cable AND the Home button works, I thing I have found a SOLUTION:

As you can see in the picture (link below), a grounding Tip under the screw MUST be in THIS POSITION. If misaligned it will not work. Mine was misaligned during the display disassembly (STEP 16) and this was the solution. A smile returned to my face.

IMG LINK:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1608...

Oscar Vera, · Reply

why cant u disconnect the lcd and just put the new one in reverse from step 16? wgy to step 32

Cameron Shelley, · Reply

Notice the Connector has a foam pad on the Top of it,

Make sure your new battery has one of these before continuing, It's a must to stop interference and a possible boot loop.

megsy988, · Reply

If you end up having to pry the battery out, put some paper between the bezel and the battery. Mine now has a little gouge that's visible just under the volume buttons.

lessawinston, · Reply

A few things for reassembly:

To apply the adhesive strips, peel one side of the backing off, then without touching the strips put the whole thing adhesive side down where the old strips were, then pull off the remaining backing. If you pull the strips out first, they want to tangle up and become a blob. Trust me, I know. Sadface.

To reapply the tiny bracket that holds the home button's cable in place, put the side with the one tab in first, oriented towards the bottom of the phone, then press the top with the two cut outs into place. There's two tabs in the phone body that should line up with the two cut outs.

When closing it up, you have to slide the top of the screen flush into place before pressing the rest of the phone shut. If you don't, the top won't snap shut.

lessawinston, · Reply

Well, a couple comments:

1. Once I completed the battery replacement and put the iPhone back together, everything is working EXCEPT incoming call ring, in and out going mail & text message sounds. However, audio streaming works just fine!

> could this be the 4 screws in the wrong place? (I missed the screw detail the first time!);

> could this be a not completely seated connectors?

2. The iFixit instructions were incredible....however, one must read and reread the instructions to avoid "oops" situations.

pmilkes, · Reply

pmilkes, the same with me. Everything ok except the loudspeaker. I just did the same thing wrong as you did. (I did not notice the 1,2mm 1,3mm and 1,7mm screws.

A good solution is appreciated.

Thanks

By the way, my phone (iphone 5s) went complete in drinking water for three hours while I was asleep. And after 2 months I decided to change the battery. So now everything is working except the loudspeaker. (I already ordered for a replacement of that also)

thanks I fixit.

alperinugur, · Reply

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