iPad Pro 9.7" Battery Replacement

Insert a SIM card eject tool, bit, or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray, located near the bottom edge of the iPad.

Press firmly to eject the tray.

Remove the SIM tray.

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

Handling it by the tabs on either end, place a heated iOpener over the top edge of the iPad.

Let the iOpener sit on the iPad for two minutes to soften the adhesive securing the front panel to the rest of the iPad.

As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas:

Home Button

Front Facing Camera

Main Camera

Place a suction cup over the iPad's front-facing camera and press down to create a seal.

Firmly pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the front panel and the rear case.

Once you've opened a sufficient gap, insert an opening pick into the gap to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Slide the pick along the edge of the display, towards the headphone jack.

If there is still a considerable amount of resistance when sliding the opening pick, repeat the iOpener heating procedure and apply additional heat.

Insert a second opening pick by the front-facing camera.

Slide the second pick along the top edge of the iPad, towards the Sleep/Wake Button.

Insert a third pick by the front-facing camera.

Bring the right opening pick down and around the top right corner of the iPad.

Bring the left opening pick around the top left corner of the tablet.

Reheat the iOpener and lay it over the right edge of the display to loosen the adhesive underneath.

Slide the right opening pick roughly halfway down the display.

Reheat the iOpener and apply heat to the left side of the iPad.

Slide the left-hand opening pick about halfway down the edge of the display.

Slide the opposite opening pick down to the bottom right corner of the iPad.

Slide the left-hand opening pick down the edge of the display until you reach the corner.

Use the iOpener to apply heat to the bottom edge of the iPad.

Bring the right-hand opening pick around the bottom corner of the iPad.

Repeat for the left-hand pick.

Remove the right-hand opening pick at the bottom of the iPad.

Slide the left-hand opening pick along the bottom edge of the display, then remove it from the bottom right corner of the iPad.

Use picks to ensure most of the adhesive has been cut through on the top, left, and bottom sides.

Twist the top and bottom picks to separate the display assembly from the rear case.

Swing the display assembly towards the right of the case, using the right edge as a hinge.

As you move the display assembly, make sure that the display ribbon cable is not being stressed.

Continue swinging the display assembly until it lays flat next to the rear case.

Remove the eleven 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the EMI shield.

Apply a heated iOpener to the EMI shield on the logic board for one minute.

Lift the logic board EMI shield, starting at the edge nearest the top of the iPad.

Slowly peel the EMI shield up from the logic board.

Remove the logic board EMI shield.

Squeeze the sharp protrusion with a pair of pliers to flatten it.

Repeat the process for all sharp protrusions along the edges of the EMI shield.

Remove the 1.8 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector.

Disconnect the battery by inserting a Battery Blocker underneath the logic board to isolate it from the battery's contacts.

Unless specified otherwise, leave the Battery Blocker in place until you have completed your repairs.

Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the display cable bracket.

Remove the display cable bracket.

Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the display assembly connector from the motherboard socket.

Repeat the previous step for the two remaining connectors.

Remove the display assembly.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two antenna cables which connect the logic board to the lower antennas.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and loosen the adhesive holding the two disconnected antenna cables in place.

Carefully route the cables out from between the battery and the logic board.

Push the cables away from the battery.

Use tweezers or a spudger to gently pull up the end of the black tape nearest the Smart Connector. It covers the mid-battery circuit board residing between the two battery cells.

Remove the 1.7 mm Phillips screw holding the Smart Connector cable cover in place.

Remove the Smart Connector cable cover.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Smart Connector's connector from its socket between the battery cells.

Push the Smart Connector flex cable up and out of the way.

Apply a piece of masking or painter's tape to the top speaker assembly. The tape should bridge the gap between the battery and the speaker assembly.

Use the flat end of a spudger to push the edge of the tape down into the crevice between the battery and the speaker.

Slide the spudger across the entire length of the crevice, pushing tape down to create a boundary.

Repeat the same procedure on the logic board side and the bottom side of the iPad.

Once complete, the masking should look like the first image.

Four strips of strong adhesive hold the battery in place.

Prepare a work area where the iPad can rest in a tilted position, to allow adhesive remover to trickle down to the adhesive strips.

Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

Carefully insert a plastic card under the bottom right corner of the battery.

Slowly slide the plastic card across the bottom edge of the battery to make a gap for the liquid adhesive remover.

Tilt the bottom of the iPad up.

Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly along the elevated edge of the battery.

Rest the iPad in a slanted position, bottom edge up, and wait 2-3 minutes to allow the adhesive remover to penetrate and soften the first adhesive strip.

Slide a plastic card into the bottom edge of the battery.

Push slowly and firmly. Gently wiggle and twist the card to help it slice through the adhesive.

You can also approach the adhesive strip with the plastic card from battery's other bottom corner.

Continue slicing until you have separated the battery from the first adhesive strip.

Tilt the bottom of the iPad up.

Reapply adhesive remover into the gap for the second adhesive strip, located deeper underneath the bottom battery cell.

Repeat the application, waiting, and slicing process until the second adhesive strip is separated from the battery.

Slide an opening pick under the top edge of the battery, creating a gap large enough for a plastic card.

Insert a plastic card under the top edge and slide it across the entire length, creating a gap for the adhesive remover.

Apply adhesive remover into the gap to help weaken the third adhesive strip.

Rest the iPad in a slanted position, top edge up, for 2-3 minutes to allow the adhesive remover to weaken the third strip.

Use a plastic card to slice through the third adhesive strip.

Repeat the application, waiting, and slicing process to release the last adhesive strip located deeper underneath the top battery cell.

Slide the Battery Blocker out of its position and remove it.

Use the plastic card or your fingers to flip the bottom half of the battery over so that it rests on top of the upper half.

Slide an opening pick underneath the mid-battery circuit board, near the Smart Connector.

Carefully slice underneath the board around the post to release the board from the rear case.

Place the Battery Blocker on top of the plastic card such that the top half of the Battery Blocker extends past the top of the card.

Wrap tape around the plastic card so that the Battery Blocker is held in place.

Slide the extended Battery Blocker under the battery where it contacts the logic board.

Slowly lever the extended Battery Blocker upwards, pushing the battery contacts and the logic board up.

Once the extended Battery Blocker has lifted the battery contacts high enough to clear the screw post, pull the battery out of its position.

Remove the battery and the Battery Blocker.

Thoroughly clean the back case of all adhesive residue.

Apply adhesive remover or high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol to the residue.

Use an opening tool to scrape and loosen the residue.

Be sure to wipe the residue away in one direction to prevent smearing.

You can remove the masking tape as well as any protective gear once you are done cleaning.

Insert the extended Battery Blocker under the logic board.

Lever the tool so that the the Battery Blocker's prongs barely push the logic board above the screw post.

Lay the replacement battery pack on top of the extended Battery Blocker.

Allow the battery pack to slide in place underneath the logic board as the battery's contacts clear the screw post.

Remove the Battery Blocker.

Lift the bottom edge of the battery up slightly.

Use tweezers or your fingers to peel the single clear plastic covering off of the entire bottom side of the battery.

Align the battery such that it falls in place with the screw post near the Smart Connector.

Gently lay the battery down into its recess.

Press the battery firmly into place.

Separate the Battery Blocker from the plastic card if it is still taped together.

Reinsert the Battery Blocker between the logic board and the battery contacts.

Resume reassembly.