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iPhone XS Max Screen Replacement

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Written By: Jeff Suovanen (and 4 other contributors)
  • Comments: 50
  • Favorites: 17
  • Completions: 143

Featured Guide

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

30

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Sections

5

Flags

1

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Introduction

If your iPhone XS Max screen is cracked, not responding to touch, or not showing a picture when your phone is powered on, use this guide to restore your iPhone to working order with a new screen, a.k.a. display assembly.

The combined earpiece speaker + sensor assembly affixed to the back of the display is paired to your individual iPhone from the factory, so you must transfer it from your old display to your new one during any display replacement. It contains the flood illuminator, which is part of the biometric Face ID security feature. If it is damaged or replaced, Face ID will cease to function, so take extra care not to damage any of these components during this procedure. If damaged, only Apple can restore Face ID function.

Note: True Tone functionality is disabled after a screen replacement, even when using an original Apple screen.

Video Overview

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured. Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Edit

  2. If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass. Lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

    • If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.

    Edit

    How to detect my Iphone what screen it is, OLED or LCD?

    sabrihakulii - Reply

    It’s OLED. You can find the specs here, https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201296

    When you find your phone, at the bottom of the description click on, See the tech specs…

    mcr4u2 -

    The included suction cups were stiff and worthless. They would not lift the screen. Also, I tried every type of tape on the screen to help the suction cups stick without success. Heavy duty suction cups were for my bathroom also failed. However, I had an old GoPro mount with some preapplied double sided 3M VSB tape and stuck that on the screen near the bottom. Magic! This method had the added bonus of being able to use a GoPro attachment as a handle to lift the screen, and propped up the screen like a kickstand in step 12.

    Tawan Khamapirad - Reply

    Very cool! Thanks

    Antonio -

    My screen was pretty stuck… would not budge. Heated, super glued the suction cup, tried gorilla tape. Ended up doing the GoPro mount with 3M VSB tape method mentioned. Worked great. That 3M tape is the bomb.

    Rich Wachtel - Reply

    The included suction cup took a few tries but ended up working for me.

    charlotte - Reply

    If you have flat feeler gauges (for adjusting engine valve tappet clearance, ignition points … old school) the .003 thick goes right in. Work your way up until you can get the pick or supplied pry tool in.

    William Olstad - Reply

    where can I buy 3M VSB plis!!

    gerardo artigas cuellar - Reply

    I used the tweezers that came with the replacement screen and jammed one of them into the glass and that eventually worked. Heating with a blow dryer is also important. The suction cup was helpful in loosening the adhesive for sure, but just not enough to get the display to come out.

    J Olin - Reply

  3. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    Edit

  4. The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method. If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger iPhones like the XS Max.

    • The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method.

    • If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger iPhones like the XS Max.

    • Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.

    • Press both suction cups firmly into place.

    • If your display or back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may help the suction cups adhere. The iSclack also includes two pieces of tape for this purpose.

    Edit

  5. Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone. Don't try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need. Insert an opening pick into the gap under the display on the lower edge of the iPhone.

    • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone.

    • Don't try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap under the display on the lower edge of the iPhone.

    • Skip the next two steps.

    Edit

  6. If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass. If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    • If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    Edit

  7. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Insert an opening pick into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    Edit

  8. Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place. Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components. Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

    • Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

    Edit

  9. Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

    • Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.

    • Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

    Edit

  10. The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips. Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port. The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.

    • The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.

    • Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.

    • The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.

    • Again, don't insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.

    • Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

    Edit

  12. Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

    • If you used an iSclack and it's still affixed to the iPhone, remove it now.

    Edit

  13. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board. Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

    Edit

  14. Remove four Y000 screws securing the logic board cover bracket, of the following lengths: Two 1.1 mm screws
    Tool used on this step:
    Magnetic Project Mat
    $19.99

    • Remove four Y000 screws securing the logic board cover bracket, of the following lengths:

    • Two 1.1 mm screws

    • One 1.5 mm screw

    • One 3.7 mm screw

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

    Edit

  15. Remove the bracket.

    • Remove the bracket.

    • The bracket may be lightly adhered in place. Lift gently but firmly to separate it.

    • During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

    Edit

  16. Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board. Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

    • Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

    • Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

    Edit

  17. Remove the three Y000 screws securing the display connector bracket: Two 1.5 mm screws

    • Remove the three Y000 screws securing the display connector bracket:

    • Two 1.5 mm screws

    • One 1.1 mm screw

    Edit

    I am replacing the screen for the 2nd time - the first repair was done by someone else, and the first 2 screws are 1.5mm and the last screw is 1.1mm… If I put the screw back in am I risking Long Screw Damage?

    Sarah Ybarra - Reply

    I think that the outside screw (red one, one the right) is actually 1.5 mm or something longer than 1.1. Looked that way to me.

    Paul Key - Reply

    From the top, the screws are: 2 x 1,5mm + 1 x 1,1mm

    serdev94 - Reply

    I can confirm the above comments on the screw length. Pls correct it in the description!

    k_neuper - Reply

    Thanks for all your comments! I'll amend this step.

    Arthur Shi - Reply

  18. Remove the bracket.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Edit

  19. Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector. Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    Edit

  20. Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector. To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

    Edit

  21. Use a spudger or fingernail to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket. If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

    • Use a spudger or fingernail to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket.

    • If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

    Edit

    Mine still won’t respond even after reseating any ideas? Ground issue?

    Jasom - Reply

  22. The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is lightly adhered in place. Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates. Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.

    • The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is lightly adhered in place.

    • Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.

    Edit

    What if that cable brakes how do u fix that?

    Kourtney Williams - Reply

  23. Remove the display assembly.
    Edit

    No olviden que para que pase el Face Id tienen q cambiar el flex que va encima de la camara delantera con mucho cuidado ya q si le ponen otro flex no funcionara.

    jeferson - Reply

  24. Remove the three Y000 screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly: One 1.4 mm screw

    • Remove the three Y000 screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly:

    • One 1.4 mm screw

    • Two 1.5 mm screws

    Edit

  25. The earpiece speaker is lightly adhered in place. Using a spudger, gently pry under the top edge of the speaker assembly, and flip it over—down and away from the top edge of the display.

    • The earpiece speaker is lightly adhered in place.

    • Using a spudger, gently pry under the top edge of the speaker assembly, and flip it over—down and away from the top edge of the display.

    • The speaker remains attached via a very thin ribbon cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

    Edit

    If you are using a refurbished display, check for dirt in the earpiece speaker cutout.

    If you have poor quality or low sound after changing the display, use a cotton bud and isopropyl alcohol to clean the earpiece cutout.

    John Gildert - Reply

  26. Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for 1-2 minutes, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.

    • Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for 1-2 minutes, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.

    Edit

  27. Carefully slide the edge of your opening pick underneath the flex cable below the microphone. Twist gently to separate the microphone, while being careful not to strain or damage the flex cable. If needed, use the point of the spudger to finish separating the microphone from its notch in the front panel.

    • Carefully slide the edge of your opening pick underneath the flex cable below the microphone.

    • Twist gently to separate the microphone, while being careful not to strain or damage the flex cable.

    • If needed, use the point of the spudger to finish separating the microphone from its notch in the front panel.

    Edit

  28. Working left to right, slide an opening pick beneath the flex cable and underneath the proximity sensor + flood illuminator module. Gently wiggle and lift to separate the module from its notch in the front panel. It's helpful to lift and hold the speaker out of the way for access. Just be careful not to pull on the thin flex cable while you work.

    • Working left to right, slide an opening pick beneath the flex cable and underneath the proximity sensor + flood illuminator module.

    • Gently wiggle and lift to separate the module from its notch in the front panel.

    • It's helpful to lift and hold the speaker out of the way for access. Just be careful not to pull on the thin flex cable while you work.

    Edit

  29. Use tweezers to wiggle the ambient light sensor and lift it from its notch in the display. If the sensor does not wiggle free after a few seconds, apply more heat and try again.

    • Use tweezers to wiggle the ambient light sensor and lift it from its notch in the display.

    • If the sensor does not wiggle free after a few seconds, apply more heat and try again.

    • The sensor remains attached to the rest of the sensor assembly via a very thin ribbon cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

    Edit

  30. If you successfully removed the entire ambient light sensor, as shown in the first photo, continue to the next step below. If the white diffuser strip detached and remains embedded in the display, as shown in the second photo, you will need to carefully lever it out along the top edge using a thin blade or pry tool. Re-applying heat first may make this task a bit easier. During reassembly, install the diffuser into the display first, making sure it faces the right direction (the front-facing side is shown in the first image, and the rear-facing side is shown in the third).

    • If you successfully removed the entire ambient light sensor, as shown in the first photo, continue to the next step below.

    • If the white diffuser strip detached and remains embedded in the display, as shown in the second photo, you will need to carefully lever it out along the top edge using a thin blade or pry tool. Re-applying heat first may make this task a bit easier.

    • During reassembly, install the diffuser into the display first, making sure it faces the right direction (the front-facing side is shown in the first image, and the rear-facing side is shown in the third).

    • Then, set the ambient light sensor on top of the diffuser. You will need to hold the sensor in position while installing the screws securing the earpiece/sensor assembly. Once the screws are tightened, the sensor will stay in place and work normally.

    Edit

    I have accidentally damaged flood illuminator will it affect the face id also or if I just replace the Earpiece Speaker and Sensor Assembly it will get fixed.

    Devashish Nayak - Reply

  31. Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly. During reassembly, check the position of the black plastic module containing these components: Proximity sensor

    • Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly.

    • During reassembly, check the position of the black plastic module containing these components:

    • Proximity sensor

    • Flood illuminator

    • The module must be positioned so that these components are not obstructed by any adhesive.

    Edit

    Do you have to remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly. If you are taking a screen from another Xs max with it already attached?

    atkinson_98 - Reply

    The front sensor assembly is part of Face ID, so you must transfer the original assembly to the replacement screen in order to maintain Face ID functionality.

    Arthur Shi -

    In order to keep the original assembly, do you have to solder?

    qwerty77x - Reply

    No, you just take the whole unit. Warm it up and remove the glued sensors like described. Handle it carefully, the speaker cable is quite thin. If damaged, you might loose your face-ID functionality.

    rob_repair -

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

143 other people completed this guide.

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Jeff Suovanen

Member since: 08/06/2013

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27 Comments

Nice guide. I could be wrong but for the first time in a while, changing a display on an Apple phone looks like it’s not anymore difficult than previous models.

John K

the-screen-savers.com

John Knirr - Reply

If you remove the screen but then apply the same screen back on the phone, will True Tone still be disabled?

Onel Jimenez - Reply

@onslivion Nope! It'll continue to work fine, so long as you didn’t damage anything.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi i broke the Flex cable of the Part.

what i can do now.

is their some Parts for sale?

murtasa972 - Reply

I just switched the screens from 2 phones and both are unresponsive, if put them back to its original logic board the work again, any idea why they dont work? both are original.

martinlpz0422 - Reply

Why is True Tone disabled afterwards? Even with an Original Screen how is that possible?

indra.schleiffer - Reply

That's normal. There's a chip in the screen that has info that is specific to the original logic board so unless you have a special machine to read/write to that chip, truetone will not work.

schaubjimmy -

Hello, I just came across a xs max that works otherwise but 1-2 cm from the top wont work. Is this a known issue with a fix? LCD works fine, but digitizer is cracked.

teemupa - Reply

Awesome guide!

iTony - Reply

This was perfect. It definitely helped me replace the screen on a friend IPhone XS Max!

Jordyn Everson - Reply

Every authoritative source (such as Apple Support, Wikipedia) that I read about the iPhone XS Max display states that it has an OLED display - not an AMOLED display, and not an LCD display (such as on the XR model). Yet the parts associated with this guide are LCD (website quirk?) and the written text for XS Max mention AMOLED. Isn’t this important to get right when replacing? The model I have is A1921.

Mark Johnson - Reply

Hi Mark,

The iPhone XS Max uses an AMOLED display. Active Matrix OLED (AMOLED) is a subcategory of the general OLED tech—AMOLED displays contain circuitry which allows them to switch each OLED pixel on or off. Compared to Passive Matrix OLED, AMOLED displays have a higher refresh rate and are more energy efficient . However AMOLED displays are complex, difficult to source, and very expensive to replace (think $200-400 for the part!) Hardware manufacturers sought to resolve this problem by producing LCD replacement screens. These screens are made to be completely compatible with the iPhone XS Max, but are significantly cheaper to replace. They do look slightly different compared to the original screen. Check this link out for a more in-depth review of the differences.

Arthur Shi -

Where is the INSTALL GUIDE this is just removal? And don’t tell me it’s the reverse. I have a small gasket that’s not mentioned in this and it doesn’t explain how to remove the main old gasket or install the new gasket

James Baker - Reply

Where is the installation guide? This is just a removal guide. Don’t tell me that it’s the opposite of removal to install because I have a small gasket that is not mentioned in the YouTube video or on this site in my package

James Baker - Reply

I would like to echo this comment. It is extremely disappointing to see a guide this comprehensive and detailed stop short of reassembly. Especially because some parts need to be transferred from the original display to the replacement one.

Bobby Adamson -

Completed the Repair with the more Expensive alternative - the OLED display.

The guide is very comprehensive and covered all the points including looking out for bits left behind!

- I noticed a tiny piece of conductive foam on the old display which i moved to the new one.

The OLED display is top quality, but a little darker due to losing the “True Tone” no doubt.

The Adhesive kit is very good, but separating the two films was a little difficult and messed up the alignment slightly, however I managed to recover!

John Gildert - Reply

One more addition I had to make after undertaking this repair.

I had noted that after swapping the display the earpiece was very quiet. I thought that I had missed a gasket, misaligned the earpiece speaker or not plugged in the leads correctly.

Nope. Much simpler than that. CLEAN THE EAR PIECE CUTOUT! *Eeeewwww* After putting up with this for about 4 weeks, I happened to get out the Cotton Buds. A quick wipe revealed someone elses EAR GUNK was clogging up the ear piece cutout !

Disgusted, I got out the Isopropyl and cleaned it (carefully) about 10 times, the audio is now crystal clear.

@ifixit - Please ensure your “Refurbished displays” have a clean earhole. It was pretty gross that it was clogged to the point that I could not HEAR!

John Gildert -

Great guide, completely worked for me!

Jonathan Holland - Reply

This guide worked perfectly for my iPhone Max XS screen replacement. This is only my second “project” from iFixit (the first was a replacement display screen for my Canon 6D) and both times, miraculously, everything worked. I’m really not sure if it is my skills or the details in the guides (it’s definitely the latter and a tiny bit of the former). The replacement parts are reasonably priced and the toolkits are VERY GOOD in quality.

For this iPhone screen fix, I used a previously purchased toolkit and “borrowed” suction handles (yes, definitely makes a difference and better than the tape alternative—I tried both) from a bathroom rack.

It took me about 3 hours to get this done. I rushed on step one and stripped the first pentalobe screw. Luckily, one stripped pentalobe screw is still OK. I managed to pull it apart by wiggling the screen around (without too much force). I used a hair dryer to heat the frame/adhesive.

Follow the instructions closely and don’t lose the tiny screws. A magnetic screwdriver helped.

uropygi - Reply

I have accidentally damaged flood illuminator will it affect the face id also or if I just replace the Earpiece Speaker and Sensor Assembly it will get fixed.

Devashish Nayak - Reply

Step 1: Remove pentalobe screws…is very careful to NOT STRIP THE SCREW…tools provided/metal is not hard enough and is unable to take out the screw in Step 1 and am now currently going out to buy better pentalobe screw driver. THANKS. Why don’t you just provide better tools and increase the cost……………………………………………

Michael Wu - Reply

work just fine ,thank you…

moostafak - Reply

for me at least once you get use to repairing this it can take around 30 min too an hour but i also repair all devices even phones for living so i do have experience with repairing these

Zach Mentz - Reply

Changing just the glass screen on my iphone xs max and the black part behind the screen is cracked what do I do ?

Amber Hankins - Reply

Executed this repair almost flawlessly. The FaceID flex cable is very fragile and glued down very well. I advise you be careful when removing is as not much pressure at all can cause it to break (Speaking from experience). Other than that the guide was very easy to follow.

Gerald Johnson - Reply

This was an incredible guide! With the video, it was the perfect guide and I managed to complete the fix in less than 2 hours.

Akshar Jain - Reply

Can water damaged iphone be restored by replacing screen?

Andrea castaneto - Reply

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