Cracked screen? Touch not working? Bad OLED display? Use this guide to restore your iPhone X to working order with a new screen, a.k.a. display assembly.

The combined earpiece speaker + sensor assembly affixed to the back of the display is paired to your individual iPhone from the factory, so you must transfer it from your old display to your new one during any display replacement. It contains the flood illuminator, which is part of the biometric Face ID security feature. If it is damaged or replaced, Face ID will cease to function, so take extra care not to damage any of these components during this procedure. If damaged, only Apple can restore Face ID function.

Note: If your iPhone’s auto brightness feature does not work properly after your screen repair, make sure your iPhone is updated to iOS 12. True Tone functionality is disabled after a screen replacement, even when using an original Apple screen.

Video Overview

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

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  2. If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
    • If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

      • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

    • If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.

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    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

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    • The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method.

    • If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone X.

    • Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.

    • Press both suction cups firmly into place.

      • If your display or back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cups to adhere. The iSclack also includes two pieces of tape for this purpose.

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    • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone.

      • Don't try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • Skip the next two steps and continue to step 7.

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    • If using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

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    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

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    • Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.

      • Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

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    • Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.

      • Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

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    • The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.

    • Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.

      • The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.

      • Again, don't insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.

    • Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

    These are the best instructions I’ve ever read for anything.! Thank you!

    Peter Andrew - Reply

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    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

    • If you used an iSclack and it's still affixed to the iPhone, remove it now.

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    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

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    • Remove five Y000 screws securing the logic board connector bracket, of the following lengths:

      • Three 1.1 mm screws

      • One 3.1 mm screw

      • One 3.7 mm screw

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

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    • Remove the bracket.

      • The bracket may be lightly adhered in place. Lift gently but firmly to separate it.

    • During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

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    • Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

      • Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

    • Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

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    • Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

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    • Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.

      • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

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    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket.

      • This connector's recessed location makes it tricky to reconnect. Take your time and align it carefully, then gently press it into place with your fingertip—first one side, then the other. You should feel it click into place.

      • If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

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    • The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is lightly adhered in place.

    • Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.

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    • Remove the 1.2 mm Y000 screw on the back of the display assembly, near the infrared camera port.

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    • Beneath the screw you just removed lies a small metal grounding clip. If it didn't already come out along with the screw, remove it now.

    • During reassembly, orient the clip as shown. Hold the clip in position while you install and tighten the screw.

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    • Remove two more Y000 screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly:

      • One 1.6 mm screw

      • One 1.3 mm screw

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    • The earpiece speaker is lightly adhered in place.

    • Using a spudger, gently pry under the top edge of the speaker assembly, and flip it over—down and away from the top edge of the display.

    • The speaker remains attached via a very thin flex cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

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    • Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.

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    • Carefully slide the flat edge of your spudger underneath the flex cable below the microphone.

    • Twist gently to separate the microphone, while being careful not to strain or damage the flex cable.

    • If needed, use the point of the spudger to finish separating the microphone from its notch in the front panel.

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    • Working left to right, slide an opening pick beneath the flex cable and underneath the proximity sensor + flood illuminator module.

    • Gently wiggle and lift to separate the module from its notch in the front panel.

    • It's helpful to lift and hold the speaker out of the way for access. Just be careful not to pull on the thin flex cable while you work.

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    • Use tweezers to wiggle the ambient light sensor and lift it from its notch in the display.

    • The sensor remains attached to the rest of the sensor assembly via a very thin flex cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

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    • If you successfully removed the entire ambient light sensor, as shown in the first photo, continue to the next step below.

    • If the white diffuser strip detached and remains embedded in the display, as shown in the second photo, you will need to carefully lever it out along the top edge using a thin blade or pry tool. Re-applying heat first may make this task a bit easier.

      • During reassembly, install the diffuser into the display first, making sure it faces the right direction (the front-facing side is shown in the first image, and the rear-facing side is shown in the third).

      • Then, set the ambient light sensor on top of the diffuser. You will need to hold the sensor in position while installing the screws securing the earpiece/sensor assembly. Once the screws are tightened, the sensor will stay in place and work normally.

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    Dang Tuan - Reply

    • Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly.

    • During reassembly, check the position of the black plastic module containing these components:

      • Proximity sensor

      • Flood illuminator

    • The module must be positioned so that these components are not obstructed by any adhesive.

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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

94 other people completed this guide.

Jeff Suovanen

Member since: 08/06/2013

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Great Guide, professional and honest to proper procedures, good work Jeff Suovanen.

Alec - Reply

does a new display not come with faceid sensor? so you have to remove this and instal it again with the new glass?

Scott Miller - Reply

yeah, also face id will not work if you don’t replace the flex. Just be careful

jump1n -

I have a jailbroken iPhone x and i have to replace my screen in an authorized apple service.

Is necessary after replacement to restore? Or i can stay in 11.3.1 ios which i need to be so i can jailbrake?

jdais2003 - Reply

Hey guys,

I have just completed my third iPhone X screen replacement, but now the taptic engine no longer functions and the phone no longer detects wifi ssid’s.

Does anyone have any advice?

Alex Stewart - Reply

Akex even though you were not working in the area of the Taptic Engine, it sounds like something has happened down there because the wifi long antenna flex cable is attached to the frame at the bottom of the phone that is secured with seven screws. That frame and wifi aerial cable glued to the underside runs right next to the Taptic Engine . The frame also carries three EMC Grounding Pads. Its shown in Step 23 of the iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement Guide but they dont mentions what the cable is. iFixit dont carry it as a spare part either.

Sean Wren - Reply

So is the iPhone XS’s cracked screen replacement different from the iPhone X’s?

lucas mariani - Reply

@lucasmar The procedure for the XS screen replacement is very nearly identical—you can find the guide for it right here.

Jeff Suovanen -

Does anyone of you know that when you replace iphone x display, you need to transfer codes from the old cracked display to work fine?

amar762 - Reply

Is it possible to separate the digitizer and OLED flex cables from the screen and just replace them?

A_Bortz - Reply

Possible, sure. Practical, no. You’d need an expensive microsoldering rig and a fair bit of practice to pull it off, plus a donor screen to get the cables from. From a DIY perspective, it’s far faster and cheaper to simply replace the entire display.

Jeff Suovanen -

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