For an easier repair, use our fix kit and follow this shorter guide to replace your iPhone’s entire display assembly.

For more advanced fixers, this guide will help you replace only the iPhone 7 LCD screen + digitizer assembly (a.k.a. the bare “front panel”). This requires you to transfer several components from your original screen to the new one before installing it—including the front camera assembly, earpiece speaker, LCD shield plate, and home/Touch ID sensor.

For all screen/display repairs, it's important to carefully transfer the original home/Touch ID sensor onto the new display in order for it to function. The solid state home button is paired to its original logic board by Apple, so replacing it will render it unusable.

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase - Reply

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing - Reply

  2. If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

      • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

    • If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.

    In case of broken glass you can make the suction cup much more effective by covering the glass with a broad piece of translucent tape which eliminate air leakage through cracks in the glass.

    lionno1 - Reply

    Il n’est pas nécessaire de mettre beaucoup de scotch.

    Au contraire plus vous mettez de scotch, plus il y aura de défauts et la ventouse ne collera pas.

    Une bande bien positionnée suffit.

    Chloé Bossuette - Reply

    I’ve used hot glue on low setting to remove all types of crystals. The hot glue will release with a little iso alcohol. No damage to glass or plastic faced crystals or screens. Use a narrow piece of wood as a prying handle.

    Emilio Gonzalez - Reply

    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    ¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?

    joscarlos91 - Reply

    It is a process. I heated the lower area of the phone with a hair dryer on and off (1min each) about 3-4 times before I was able to get the provided tool in.

    Dan - Reply

    I suggest using a hairdryer. I used the iOpener for maybe 30 mins to no avail. However, when I used the hairdryer the screen came of much quicker.

    Michael - Reply

    • Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button.

      • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    The glass is completely cracked and the suction cup doesn't work because it gets air in between. any tip?

    Display is glued and doesn't come off.

    support - Reply

    A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)

    Mimic44444 - Reply

    Last comment works well. Thank you !

    Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.

    Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.

    Arni Benediktsson - Reply

    • Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

      • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

    This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.

    jessica harlow - Reply

    I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.

    mcr4u2 -

    Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain

    Jordon Johnson - Reply

    Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful

    Jordon Johnson - Reply

    This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/

    Chris Gallego - Reply

    Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.

    Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.

    amberron - Reply

    I second Jessica’s January 8 comment.  I just finished a battery replacement on my iPhone 7 and this step was the most nerve-wracking part.  I ended up using a sharper (but not razor-sharp) metal object to get this done with confidence (tried the spudger and guitar pick but not thin enough).  The tool I used was the exact duplicate of what iFixIt calls “iSesamo Opening Tool” in their tool selection.  I did the heat up with a hair dryer (after attempts with an iOpener hot pad) and the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).  I actually used the metal tool for most of the perimeter as well, just don’t go deep (you don’t need to).  Notes: my display was intact, and I was able to pull up fairly hard with a glass screen protector still on it.

    Ted - Reply

    This is frustrating. I heated the lower edge with a hair dryer for 1 min on high about 3-4 times. In between each heat cycle, I rocked the suction cup back and forth. I was eventually able to create significant space for the provided tool. This takes a lot of patience. Once the space was created, it was very easy to remove the screen.

    Dan - Reply

    use a fingernail, then the blue tool, then the spudger

    Therese Peffer - Reply

    The iOpener worked just fine for me. Had to keep it on for a few minutes. I also was able to get the suction cup seal right close to the edge, over top of the home button for added leverage. Used the blue tool and transitioned to the spudger. Slow, steady pressure…and patience. ;)

    johnhall918 - Reply

    • Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone.

    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.

    Add Comment

    • Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch.

    • Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.

    Add Comment

    • Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device.

    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    • Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    Add Comment

    • Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

    • Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

    do not pull up pull sideways it will brake

    Riley Patterson - Reply

    Made this mistake

    rachael.grime - Reply

    • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

    Add Comment

    • Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place.

    • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.

    Add Comment

    • Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

      • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    I just broke the cable to the battery!

    No Bama - Reply

    same dude im such a freak lol omg haha

    Aiden Polaski - Reply

    Are there replacements ribbons?

    Blax Bently - Reply

    Has anyone else noticed very small squares of rubber with a circle cut through it (I think they fall off into the phone when dismantling)?

    I just replaced my screen and worked out that these are actually a wee pocket that slips over the pentalobe screw holes on the replacement screen. I’m not sure if it’s an additional water resisting mechanism or if it’s to add additional traction for the screws

    richarddillon - Reply

    Thanks, I was wondering where those were from!

    Albert -

    • Remove four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower connector bracket, of the following lengths:

      • Three 1.2 mm screws

      • One 2.4 mm screw

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

    Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve - Reply

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst - Reply

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright - Reply

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader - Reply

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 - Reply

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos - Reply

    Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

    Stephen Babbage - Reply

    • Remove the lower connector bracket.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin - Reply

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno - Reply

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    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

    Add Comment

    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

    • To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva - Reply

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h - Reply

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson - Reply

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer - Reply

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro - Reply

    • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

    Add Comment

  4. When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley - Reply

    • Remove the four Y000 screws securing the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor:

      • One 1.1 mm screw

      • Three 1.3 mm screws

    Why is the screw over top of the home button so difficult to get out… has anyone else experienced this..? This is twice now I've struggled to get that screw

    Brandon - Reply

    The screw to the left holding the heatshield is never mentioned in this guide

    Beerbo - Reply

    No reason to touch that screw unless you’re removing the shield—in which case, this step instructs you to remove it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    So I stripped the screw furthest to the left, how can i possibly remove it now? Can I just buy a new LCD shield and home bracket button and screw and will that work just fine on the new screen replacement? this stripped screw of mine is not coming out

    Bryan Ferrer - Reply

    That should work, as long as you can still get the home button/sensor out without damage. For removing a stripped screw this size, I’d probably try supergluing it to the driver—or else just drill the top of the screw off and then remove the bracket, leaving the screw shaft embedded in the old display. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I used the same driver for all of these screws. Had to apply a lot of pressure before trying to unscrew it and it was fine.

    jessica harlow - Reply

    This is wrong, the size you need is Y00 for the 1.1mm screws and Y000 for the 1.3mm one.

    Robert Clark - Reply

    The heads on those screws are identical. I’ve never had any trouble using a Y000 for all of them. Use whatever works for you I guess.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I’ve managed to strip the screw on the right hand side - not the far right, just right of the home button. Any ideas on how to get it out without glue (I don’t have any)

    Christie Ellen - Reply

    My screwdriver is too big to get out the screws

    Coolinee Kerman - Reply

    My eyesight isn’t what it used to be. That said, the replacement screen that arrived already had screws in the two outside positions. It took me a minute to figure this out when I was trying to install the home button. I couldn’t figure out why the screws weren’t going in. I thought the holes were filled or something… Nope. screws. Took them out and used them.. all good.

    Critter - Reply

    My 7 had quite a bit of loctite holding these bad boys on. I stripped the one to the right of the home button and after using many “sentence enhancers” I was able to remove it using good tweezers and quite a bit of hand strength. I think that heating up the screws here is not an option because the cables lie underneath the plate and would probably get damaged from the amount of heat needed to loosen the loctite. Be patient here, and maybe have spare Y000 drivers because you may damage your driver getting these screws out.

    P Park - Reply

    If your having trouble. I recommend you guys to buy the Y00o driver at amazon. It look golden. It works very will .

    Jonathan curz - Reply

    Read instead of: “Remove the four Y000 screws”. “Remove the four Philips 00 screws”. Thats the case what occurs to me.

    Henk - Reply

    • Remove the bracket that secures the home/Touch ID sensor.

    Add Comment

    • Pry under the left edge of the home button cable connector to disconnect it from its socket.

      • If the entire connector begins to flip up without separating, press down on the cable at the top edge of the connector with the flat of your spudger, while simultaneously prying up the left edge of the connector. Be very careful not to damage the cable or connector, or you will permanently disable the sensor.

    Well, I just damaged the home button connector in step 31. It is completely off the cable. What now? Can I buy this home button?

    LadyTech - Reply

    I think you can not do it because your phone is not identify for new cable.

    Ali Alsaed - Reply

    Best thing to do here is to NOT pry up on the connector, but to insert the pry tool on the left side until the connector is dislodged.

    Oscar Moreno - Reply

    use one pry tool to hold down, another to pull up.

    Christa - Reply

    I did it. :-( i broke it

    Peter Keller - Reply

    • Carefully pry up the underlying connector and move it out of the way of the home/Touch ID cable.

      • It's very easy to damage your iPhone during this step. Work slowly and take care where you pry with your tool. If you damage the Touch ID hardware, it can only be replaced by Apple.

      • If the connector doesn't pry up easily, use a hair dryer or iOpener to heat and soften the adhesive securing the connector, and then try again.

      • Don't try to detach the connector completely—simply flip it up slightly so that the underlying home/Touch ID sensor cable can be removed.

    Make sure that you fold this cable out when fitting your replacement before you fasten the shield back down. I didn’t but managed to loosen 2 screws on the shield to get the cable out.

    chris_sawyer - Reply

    • Heating the area around the home/Touch ID sensor will help soften the adhesive holding its delicate cable in place, making it easier to remove safely.

    • Flip the display assembly over. Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the display for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    Add Comment

    • Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel.

    It cannot be stressed enough that this is the one part of this repair that you can’t screw up. Anything else you’ll deal with during this repair can be easily replaced (The screen, and the sensor/microphone/camera assembly). Tearing this cable means an expensive trip to the apple store. or a very unhappy customer if you’re doing this for someone. Heat is your friend. I don’t even use a spudger or a guitar pick for this one, I use a new playing card to pull this up. Even with the card, you have to be careful. The edge of the playing card can nick the cable if you’re not careful to get it under the ribbon cable. If the adhesive isn’t soft enough for the card to get it up, apply more heat. Again, you can’t screw this step up. It’s all or nothing.

    Spartan99 - Reply

    • Remove the home/Touch ID sensor assembly by lifting it through the front side of the display.

    • To reinstall, first feed the cable through the hole in the front of the display.

    • Your replacement part may come with an extra Y000 screw already installed right of the Home Button. Remove the unnecessary screw so that you can reinstall the home button bracket.

    True to this picture, the home button can only be removed (and put back in place) through the front of the LCD assembly.

    Talon - Reply

    Very good comment Talon. That was the first thing I was looking for here. There should be a bullet point in step 24 - Carefully remove home button from front of display being careful not to damage cable.

    Tracey - Reply

    Had an issue when putting the screen back on, the side where the cables attach would not sit flush. At first I thought the cables were pushing the screen up. Turned out to be the battery cable shield was just a fraction too far down toward home button. After loosening screws, nudging it up slightly and screwing back in, the screen sat flush as it should. In case anyone else has same issue.

    jbarry - Reply

    Is there anything special about reassembling the "home" button ?

    I tried several times with several buttons but none works.

    Lambiel - Reply

    • Remove the three Phillips screws securing the earpiece bracket to the front panel:

      • Two 2.6 mm screws

      • One 1.7 mm screw

    I am measuring the screws; my digital caliper measures both the top at 1.88mm not 2.6

    Marco Cueva - Reply

    I just checked the screw measurements and they match what’s shown in the guide. Are you sure you’re looking at the right screws?Are you sure your caliper is accurate? Was your iPhone serviced in the past and reassembled incorrectly? Something isn’t right. The measurements here are the screw lengths, by the way—just in case you were measuring something else.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • Remove the earpiece speaker bracket.

    Add Comment

    • Lift the front facing camera out of the way to access the earpiece speaker.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the following two Phillips screws securing the earpiece speaker to the front panel:

      • One 1.9 mm screw

      • One 2.5 mm screw

    Add Comment

    • Remove the earpiece speaker.

    Add Comment

    • Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the upper edge of the display assembly to soften the adhesive holding the front camera and sensor assembly in place.

      • Wait about two minutes before moving on to the next step to adequately soften the adhesive.

    Add Comment

    • Use a spudger to gently pry the ambient light sensor out of its recess on the front panel.

      • Try to get your tool all the way under the sensor to pry it away from the clear plastic beneath. If you pry only against the cable, the sensor may separate from the cable assembly and will need replacement. If you're replacing the sensor/cable assembly anyway, then it doesn't matter.

    I’m sorry to comment but this step is wrong. The proximity sensor is sticked to the display. I was following this instruction and the sensor was unvelded from the flex cable. Now it’s workless. It’s a fortune that the only problem with the iPhone is that while calling and holding the phone to the ear, the display doesn’t turn off.

    I recommend to gently pushing against the transparent plastic enclosure near the sensor and once it’s unsticked, keep pushing against the sensor’s body. In this way the sensor welding doesn’t bear/support any extra load on it.

    At least, my iPhone 7G had the sensor sticked to the display. Maybe some day I will replace it (around 20€ - 25€ on ebay)

    I won't claim to iFixit nor stop using this website. Whenever I higly recommend to iFixt technitians to revise such kind of “errors”. At least for expensive devices like Apple products.

    Miguel Cretu - Reply

    I editted this guide and added these two comments. I already know about this “trick”. It’s your own decision to follow my suggestion or not.

    Miguel Cretu - Reply

    I have fixed 2 screens now on iPhone 7. The 1st time I didn’t have this problem, 2nd time I did. I would agree with Miguel Cretu and save yourself the hassle and remove the sensor and it’s surround altogether.

    Wayne Lyell - Reply

    • Slide the pick towards the front facing camera housing, separating the adhesive holding the cable to the front panel. Stop just before the screw posts.

    Add Comment

    • Use the pick to lift the camera cable up off of the two plastic posts on the front panel and separate it from the last of the adhesive.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the front camera and sensor cable.

    Look at the camera assembly closely. There are two cables soldered together. Do not separate the pieces by mistake . Get the pick all the way below both ,and they will come off together.

    turboduck2 - Reply

    Good statement I made that mistake on my first iPhone 7 Plus !

    Jaye - Reply

    Its not mentioned here but there is a small philips screw at the top left that you may have to transfer to your new lcd panel

    Steve - Reply

    I’ve separated the sensor and front facing camera, can I just press them back together or will I need a complete replacement

    Dominic Sore - Reply

    • Remove the three 1.2mm tri-point Y000 screws from either side of the display assembly for a total of six screws.

    i miss the screw size here

    Beerbo - Reply

    I think it's 1.2mm Y000

    STRAP -

    I d’ont think the screw size is correct, because i had to order a new heat shield plate, because my original broke during the replacement.

    Marco Burkhalter - Reply

    I found if I held the flat end of a spudger behind the screw while I unscrewed, it worked well. Otherwise there was too much flex to get a good grip on the screw.

    Travis Hogg - Reply

    good tip! Yes, there is indeed too much flex when removing the screws.

    amberron -

    My screws are too tight that I can't unscrew it. What should I do?

    Charles Bejarano - Reply

    I have had this problem so far on all the red tri point screws. The first screw, the home button, and 4/6 of these. I have noticed little to no advice on each one or for stripped screws. I have been able to manage so far but not sure about this one.

    kimberly klassy -

    Here, I was able to use a soldering iron on the back side of the screw to get it quite hot to release the INSANE amount of loctite that was applied to my 7. Be patient and let the screw get hot. If you try to move the screw with the Y000 and it doesn’t move, WAIT. Don’t strip the screw or your driver.

    P Park - Reply

    Good tip using the soldering iron. I’ve just ordered a quality Y driver as the cheap one that came with the screen can’t remove these screws. Why the the Loctite? Had to reassemble what I’ve pulled apart to await the new driver.

    Tony Binstead -

    • Heat an iOpener and lay it over the edge of the shield closest to the home button to soften the adhesive holding it in place.

    Add Comment

    • Use an opening pick to break up the adhesive near the home button that holds the LCD shield plate to the display assembly.

    applying 1 minute of hair dryer heat in this step really helps the separation in this step

    amberron - Reply

    definitely use heat and work slowly!

    Catharine - Reply

    • Gently lift the LCD shield plate from the display assembly.

      • Be careful not to snag the display data cables when removing the LCD shield plate.

    Add Comment

    • Only the screen and digitizer remain.

    Add Comment


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

235 other people completed this guide.

Evan Noronha

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When I took off the home button, a small black square rubber piece fell out. while prying off the cable.

Can anyone tell me where this is supposed to go when I put the home button back on.

Joe in PA - Reply

The small black square that fell off is originally located on the bottom pentalobe screw bracket on the screen. It can slide back over it if you place it right.

Primus -

Thank you!!!

Punxohn Khut -

useless guide without a guide how to mount it all back on.

The home button wont fit back in its whole

iffbas - Reply

You have to put the flex through the hole from the front, and set the button against the front of the screen. Just like you got it out, in reverse.

Eric Davies -

The home button is a very delicate assembly. Once you have the home button's cable off the back of the display, and the screws off, push it lightly out from the back of the display. It should fall out.

michelle mcdonald - Reply

Would be nice to show the process of making it watertight again.

Justin - Reply

I have tried to fit 2 different lcd’s to an iphone 7 and the phone keeps going to apple logo and then black but when I disconnect the home button the phone load up

jamesreid1958 - Reply

There was an apple update that fixed that issue, it was update that caused the crash

CPR Fredericksburg -

I have completed the screen repair, although now the iPhone takes minutes to boot up and then keeps freezing when trying to use it. I have connected the old screen just in case it’s the new screen that’s the issue although it still appears to be the same. Also now when I connect the camera flex at the top the iPhone just boot loops. I have also tried a new Camera flex with the same result. Can anyone help with either of these problems?

Donald - Reply

When reassembling the home sensor and the front camera without using any adhesive, how will that affect the end result? Or is it implicit that you should use adhevise of some sort when reassembling?

Per Helm - Reply

How do i get adhesive to make the phone waterproof again and where can I get a good lcd to replace my damaged one

Iyinoluwa Ayedegbe - Reply

Hi, you can find a new LCD here, and new adhesive here. Replacing the adhesive won’t guarantee that the phone is waterproof again, but it certainly helps.

Adam O'Camb -

It has been mentioned here through virtue of the fact that Joe in PA queried what the rubber grommets were for after prying off the home button ribbon cable, if this is for a replacement LCD it might be worth adding a step advising that these need to be removed carefully by sliding them up and off the pentalobe screw brackets with tweezers as they’ll need to be moved across to the replacement screen, 3rd party replacements don’t come with them fitted.

Brendon Gould - Reply

With a little time and patience, I switched out the lcd screen. My only issues are that even though i used the same home button, the finger print feature no longer works and the screen is way to sensitive that it has to be put on speaker phone for calls because my cheek touches the phone. i’ve been trying to find out if there is an adhesive that is supposed to be on the back of the lcd screen when i reassembled it or anything else i can do to remedy this frustrating issues.

Stacy Mails - Reply

Is your screen illuminated while you talk? If so, the proximity sensor may not be seated properly, or broken. Trying to understand what you mean by the screen being too sensitive.

daimodess -

If I am harvesting another iPhone 7 for parts, do I need to remove everything from the screen? I know I need to move the home button for touch ID, but can I just leave other things like the front facing camera alone, or are those tied to the logic board too?

d0rk4l - Reply

The home button’s Touch ID is the only thing that’s tied to the logic board. All the other small parts on the screen can be freely replaced or moved to another iPhone 7 and will retain functionality.

Adam O'Camb -

HELP strange situation. Bought an iPhone 7 stuck in a boot loop and cracked screen. Home button working fine. Fixed boot loop, restored- but after swapping the home button across to the new screen I’m finding the home button has stopped working. The home button still works fine from the old cracked screen... I thought the home button was married to the logic board? Any advice??

titcharoony123 - Reply

Help please.

have changed it all out and it will not power on at all what is wrong with it

William Feltner - Reply

I changed an iPhone 7 screen and I Get no display coming up. All connectors are plugged in properly. Help

Jerry Ramirez - Reply

Installing the adhesive gasket was easy to figure out, however, the instructions on re-assembly should say something about it instead of ignoring it. C’mon, man!

jlauve - Reply

There are extensive instructions linked in Step 19.

Jeff Suovanen -

I just want to comment that I LOATHE Apple for adding these Y000 screws.

Make sure you get a good Y000 screwdriver, because the crappy one that came with the replacement screen (purchased from Amazon. Sorry iFixit, the person didn’t want to spend the extra money to go with your screen) started to strip when I tried to remove the first few Y000 screws.

I had to keep filing down the screwdriver in order to use it.

Joe - Reply

Hi. Any solution to fix Toich ID not working.

Deniss Ko - Reply

So I work at a phone repair shop and went to replace the screen on my iPhone 7 today, and i accidentally grabbed an iPhone 8 screen. To my surprise it works, i don’t see any difference but i’m going to switch it out just to be safe. True tone doesn’t work either ;(

Zachary Larkin - Reply

I have just recently changed my lcd screen on my phone and it would turn on but then when it gets to the home screen it would turn black while still on. I know its on because I could have siri call people up and it would work but I just cant see anything. Help pls!

maria noy - Reply

Home button is going to work or not? you guys got me all confused saying is tied to the logic board, but that i need to change it to make touch id to work on the new screen, so what a !&&*? :(

carloscaste - Reply

You need to keep your original home button and transfer it carefully to the new display, exactly as stated in the guide. If you do that correctly, everything will work fine. You can safely ignore any commenters claiming otherwise; this is how it has worked ever since Touch ID first came out on the iPhone 5s.

Jeff Suovanen -

I used this screen to repair an iPhone 7 and the home button stopped working completely a week after the repair.

Casey Mills -


Who had problems with four Y000 screws securing the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor and three 1.2mm tri-point Y000 screws from either side of the display assembly ? They do not get out and break.

andreyshtepa888 - Reply

Hello, i repaired the phone and after it would turn on but after awhile it would just start turning off randomly and wont charge past %16 what happened?

Parker Wruck - Reply

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