Introduction

Follow the steps in this guide to remove or replace the LCD shield plate backing the display on an iPhone 7.

Opening the iPhone 7 will damage the waterproof seals on the display. If you do not replace the adhesive seals, your phone will function normally, but will no longer be water-resistant.

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Opening the iPhone's display will damage its waterproof seals. If you do not replace the seals, your phone will no longer be water resistant.

  • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

Cooper Chase - Reply

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
  • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

  • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?

joscarlos91 - Reply

Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button. Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
  • Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

The glass is completely cracked and the suction cup doesn't work because it gets air in between. any tip?

Display is glued and doesn't come off.

support - Reply

A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)

Mimic44444 - Reply

Last comment works well. Thank you !

Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.

Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.

Arni Benediktsson - Reply

Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case. Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.
  • Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.

jessica harlow - Reply

I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.

mcr4u2 -

Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain

Jordon Johnson - Reply

Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful

Jordon Johnson - Reply

This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/

Chris Gallego - Reply

Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.

Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.

amberron - Reply

I second Jessica’s January 8 comment.  I just finished a battery replacement on my iPhone 7 and this step was the most nerve-wracking part.  I ended up using a sharper (but not razor-sharp) metal object to get this done with confidence (tried the spudger and guitar pick but not thin enough).  The tool I used was the exact duplicate of what iFixIt calls “iSesamo Opening Tool” in their tool selection.  I did the heat up with a hair dryer (after attempts with an iOpener hot pad) and the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).  I actually used the metal tool for most of the perimeter as well, just don’t go deep (you don’t need to).  Notes: my display was intact, and I was able to pull up fairly hard with a glass screen protector still on it.

Ted - Reply

Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.
  • Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone.

  • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.

Add Comment

Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch. Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display. Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.
  • Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch.

  • Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.

Add Comment

Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case. Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.
  • Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device.

  • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

  • Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.

Add Comment

Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone. Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.
  • Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

  • Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

do not pull up pull sideways it will brake

Riley Patterson - Reply

Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
  • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

Add Comment

Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place. Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.
  • Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place.

  • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.

Add Comment

Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
  • Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

  • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

I just broke the cable to the battery!

No Bama - Reply

same dude im such a freak lol omg haha

Aiden Polaski - Reply

  • Remove four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower connector bracket, of the following lengths:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.4 mm screw

  • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

Steve - Reply

Just FYI, if you have an iFixit set with the PH000 you can use that bit to remove the Y000 if you're in a bind.

Colton Neifert - Reply

These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

Jeff Hurst - Reply

dang im such a freak i messed my i phone device up badly

Aiden Polaski - Reply

The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

dbright - Reply

What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

Nasser Nader - Reply

i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

joscarlos91 - Reply

for me a ph0 worked.

Filipe Silva - Reply

What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

Jacob Ramos - Reply

Remove the lower connector bracket.
  • Remove the lower connector bracket.

my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

Josh Martin - Reply

Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone.
  • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

Add Comment

Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step. Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board. To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
  • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

  • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

  • To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

  • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

Add Comment

Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector. Remove the bracket. Remove the bracket.
  • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

  • Remove the bracket.

Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

Makana Sylva - Reply

The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

s h - Reply

I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

Peter Pearson - Reply

Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board. This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.
  • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

Add Comment

Remove the display assembly.

Add Comment

Remove the four Y000 screws securing the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor:
  • Remove the four Y000 screws securing the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor:

    • One 1.1 mm screw

    • Three 1.3 mm screws

Why is the screw over top of the home button so difficult to get out… has anyone else experienced this..? This is twice now I've struggled to get that screw

Brandon - Reply

The screw to the left holding the heatshield is never mentioned in this guide

Beerbo - Reply

No reason to touch that screw unless you’re removing the shield—in which case, this step instructs you to remove it.

Jeff Suovanen -

So I stripped the screw furthest to the left, how can i possibly remove it now? Can I just buy a new LCD shield and home bracket button and screw and will that work just fine on the new screen replacement? this stripped screw of mine is not coming out

Bryan Ferrer - Reply

That should work, as long as you can still get the home button/sensor out without damage. For removing a stripped screw this size, I’d probably try supergluing it to the driver—or else just drill the top of the screw off and then remove the bracket, leaving the screw shaft embedded in the old display. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

I used the same driver for all of these screws. Had to apply a lot of pressure before trying to unscrew it and it was fine.

jessica harlow - Reply

This is wrong, the size you need is Y00 for the 1.1mm screws and Y000 for the 1.3mm one.

Robert Clark - Reply

The heads on those screws are identical. I’ve never had any trouble using a Y000 for all of them. Use whatever works for you I guess.

Jeff Suovanen -

I’ve managed to strip the screw on the right hand side - not the far right, just right of the home button. Any ideas on how to get it out without glue (I don’t have any)

Christie Ellen - Reply

My screwdriver is too big to get out the screws

Coolinee Kerman - Reply

My eyesight isn’t what it used to be. That said, the replacement screen that arrived already had screws in the two outside positions. It took me a minute to figure this out when I was trying to install the home button. I couldn’t figure out why the screws weren’t going in. I thought the holes were filled or something… Nope. screws. Took them out and used them.. all good.

Critter - Reply

Remove the bracket that secures the home/Touch ID sensor.
  • Remove the bracket that secures the home/Touch ID sensor.

Add Comment

Pry under the left edge of the home button cable connector to disconnect it from its socket. If the entire connector begins to flip up without separating, press down on the cable at the top edge of the connector with the flat of your spudger, while simultaneously prying up the left edge of the connector. Be very careful not to damage the cable or connector, or you will permanently disable the sensor.
  • Pry under the left edge of the home button cable connector to disconnect it from its socket.

    • If the entire connector begins to flip up without separating, press down on the cable at the top edge of the connector with the flat of your spudger, while simultaneously prying up the left edge of the connector. Be very careful not to damage the cable or connector, or you will permanently disable the sensor.

Well, I just damaged the home button connector in step 31. It is completely off the cable. What now? Can I buy this home button?

LadyTech - Reply

I think you can not do it because your phone is not identify for new cable.

Ali Alsaed - Reply

Carefully pry up the underlying connector and move it out of the way of the home/Touch ID cable. It's very easy to damage your iPhone during this step. Work slowly and take care where you pry with your tool. If you damage the Touch ID hardware, it can only be replaced by Apple.
  • Carefully pry up the underlying connector and move it out of the way of the home/Touch ID cable.

    • It's very easy to damage your iPhone during this step. Work slowly and take care where you pry with your tool. If you damage the Touch ID hardware, it can only be replaced by Apple.

    • If the connector doesn't pry up easily, use a hair dryer or iOpener to heat and soften the adhesive securing the connector, and then try again.

    • Don't try to detach the connector completely—simply flip it up slightly so that the underlying home/Touch ID sensor cable can be removed.

Add Comment

Heating the area around the home/Touch ID sensor will help soften the adhesive holding its delicate cable in place, making it easier to remove safely.
  • Heating the area around the home/Touch ID sensor will help soften the adhesive holding its delicate cable in place, making it easier to remove safely.

  • Flip the display assembly over. Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the display for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

Add Comment

Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel. Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel. Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel.
  • Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel.

It cannot be stressed enough that this is the one part of this repair that you can’t screw up. Anything else you’ll deal with during this repair can be easily replaced (The screen, and the sensor/microphone/camera assembly). Tearing this cable means an expensive trip to the apple store. or a very unhappy customer if you’re doing this for someone. Heat is your friend. I don’t even use a spudger or a guitar pick for this one, I use a new playing card to pull this up. Even with the card, you have to be careful. The edge of the playing card can nick the cable if you’re not careful to get it under the ribbon cable. If the adhesive isn’t soft enough for the card to get it up, apply more heat. Again, you can’t screw this step up. It’s all or nothing.

Spartan99 - Reply

Remove the home/Touch ID sensor assembly by lifting it through the front side of the display.
  • Remove the home/Touch ID sensor assembly by lifting it through the front side of the display.

  • To reinstall, first feed the cable through the hole in the front of the display.

True to this picture, the home button can only be removed (and put back in place) through the front of the LCD assembly.

Talon - Reply

Very good comment Talon. That was the first thing I was looking for here. There should be a bullet point in step 24 - Carefully remove home button from front of display being careful not to damage cable.

Tracey - Reply

Had an issue when putting the screen back on, the side where the cables attach would not sit flush. At first I thought the cables were pushing the screen up. Turned out to be the battery cable shield was just a fraction too far down toward home button. After loosening screws, nudging it up slightly and screwing back in, the screen sat flush as it should. In case anyone else has same issue.

jbarry - Reply

Remove the three Phillips screws securing the earpiece bracket to the front panel:
  • Remove the three Phillips screws securing the earpiece bracket to the front panel:

    • Two 2.6 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

I am measuring the screws; my digital caliper measures both the top at 1.88mm not 2.6

Marco Cueva - Reply

I just checked the screw measurements and they match what’s shown in the guide. Are you sure you’re looking at the right screws?Are you sure your caliper is accurate? Was your iPhone serviced in the past and reassembled incorrectly? Something isn’t right. The measurements here are the screw lengths, by the way—just in case you were measuring something else.

Jeff Suovanen -

Remove the earpiece speaker bracket.
  • Remove the earpiece speaker bracket.

Add Comment

Lift the front facing camera out of the way to access the earpiece speaker. Lift the front facing camera out of the way to access the earpiece speaker.
  • Lift the front facing camera out of the way to access the earpiece speaker.

Add Comment

Remove the following two Phillips screws securing the earpiece speaker to the front panel:
  • Remove the following two Phillips screws securing the earpiece speaker to the front panel:

    • One 1.9 mm screw

    • One 2.5 mm screw

Add Comment

Remove the earpiece speaker.
  • Remove the earpiece speaker.

Add Comment

Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the upper edge of the display assembly to soften the adhesive holding the front camera and sensor assembly in place.
  • Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the upper edge of the display assembly to soften the adhesive holding the front camera and sensor assembly in place.

    • Wait about two minutes before moving on to the next step to adequately soften the adhesive.

Add Comment

Use a spudger  to gently pry the ambient light sensor out of its recess on the front panel. Try to get your tool all the way under the sensor to pry it away from the clear plastic beneath. If you pry only against the cable, the sensor may separate from the cable assembly and will need replacement. If you're replacing the sensor/cable assembly anyway, then it doesn't matter.
  • Use a spudger to gently pry the ambient light sensor out of its recess on the front panel.

    • Try to get your tool all the way under the sensor to pry it away from the clear plastic beneath. If you pry only against the cable, the sensor may separate from the cable assembly and will need replacement. If you're replacing the sensor/cable assembly anyway, then it doesn't matter.

I’m sorry to comment but this step is wrong. The proximity sensor is sticked to the display. I was following this instruction and the sensor was unvelded from the flex cable. Now it’s workless. It’s a fortune that the only problem with the iPhone is that while calling and holding the phone to the ear, the display doesn’t turn off.

I recommend to gently pushing against the transparent plastic enclosure near the sensor and once it’s unsticked, keep pushing against the sensor’s body. In this way the sensor welding doesn’t bear/support any extra load on it.

At least, my iPhone 7G had the sensor sticked to the display. Maybe some day I will replace it (around 20€ - 25€ on ebay)

I won't claim to iFixit nor stop using this website. Whenever I higly recommend to iFixt technitians to revise such kind of “errors”. At least for expensive devices like Apple products.

Miguel Cretu - Reply

I editted this guide and added these two comments. I already know about this “trick”. It’s your own decision to follow my suggestion or not.

Miguel Cretu - Reply

I have fixed 2 screens now on iPhone 7. The 1st time I didn’t have this problem, 2nd time I did. I would agree with Miguel Cretu and save yourself the hassle and remove the sensor and it’s surround altogether.

Wayne Lyell - Reply

Slide the pick towards the front facing camera housing, separating the adhesive holding the cable to the front panel. Stop just before the screw posts. Slide the pick towards the front facing camera housing, separating the adhesive holding the cable to the front panel. Stop just before the screw posts. Slide the pick towards the front facing camera housing, separating the adhesive holding the cable to the front panel. Stop just before the screw posts.
  • Slide the pick towards the front facing camera housing, separating the adhesive holding the cable to the front panel. Stop just before the screw posts.

Add Comment

Use the pick to lift the camera cable up off of the two plastic posts on the front panel and separate it from the last of the adhesive. Use the pick to lift the camera cable up off of the two plastic posts on the front panel and separate it from the last of the adhesive. Use the pick to lift the camera cable up off of the two plastic posts on the front panel and separate it from the last of the adhesive.
  • Use the pick to lift the camera cable up off of the two plastic posts on the front panel and separate it from the last of the adhesive.

Add Comment

Remove the front camera and sensor cable.
  • Remove the front camera and sensor cable.

Look at the camera assembly closely. There are two cables soldered together. Do not separate the pieces by mistake . Get the pick all the way below both ,and they will come off together.

turboduck2 - Reply

Good statement I made that mistake on my first iPhone 7 Plus !

Jaye - Reply

Its not mentioned here but there is a small philips screw at the top left that you may have to transfer to your new lcd panel

Steve - Reply

Remove the three 1.2mm tri-point Y000 screws from either side of the display assembly for a total of six screws. Remove the three 1.2mm tri-point Y000 screws from either side of the display assembly for a total of six screws.
  • Remove the three 1.2mm tri-point Y000 screws from either side of the display assembly for a total of six screws.

i miss the screw size here

Beerbo - Reply

I think it's 1.2mm Y000

STRAP -

I d’ont think the screw size is correct, because i had to order a new heat shield plate, because my original broke during the replacement.

Marco Burkhalter - Reply

I found if I held the flat end of a spudger behind the screw while I unscrewed, it worked well. Otherwise there was too much flex to get a good grip on the screw.

Travis Hogg - Reply

good tip! Yes, there is indeed too much flex when removing the screws.

amberron -

My screws are too tight that I can't unscrew it. What should I do?

That Dude - Reply

I have had this problem so far on all the red tri point screws. The first screw, the home button, and 4/6 of these. I have noticed little to no advice on each one or for stripped screws. I have been able to manage so far but not sure about this one.

kimberly klassy -

Heat an iOpener and lay it over the edge of the shield closest to the home button to soften the adhesive holding it in place.
  • Heat an iOpener and lay it over the edge of the shield closest to the home button to soften the adhesive holding it in place.

Add Comment

Use an opening pick to break up the adhesive near the home button  that holds the LCD shield plate to the display assembly. Use an opening pick to break up the adhesive near the home button  that holds the LCD shield plate to the display assembly. Use an opening pick to break up the adhesive near the home button  that holds the LCD shield plate to the display assembly.
  • Use an opening pick to break up the adhesive near the home button that holds the LCD shield plate to the display assembly.

applying 1 minute of hair dryer heat in this step really helps the separation in this step

amberron - Reply

Gently lift the LCD shield plate from the display assembly. Be careful not to snag the display data cables when removing the LCD shield plate.
  • Gently lift the LCD shield plate from the display assembly.

    • Be careful not to snag the display data cables when removing the LCD shield plate.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

33 other people completed this guide.

Evan Noronha

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3 Comments

Awesome Guide! Very easy to follow!!! Thanks!

apriltanner1975 - Reply

Use a good tri-point screwdriver for this repair. Some of the screws are very tight!

Robin Vandenbroucke - Reply

I am a better technician because ifixit repair guide have made it easier for me. Thank you

Agba - Reply

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