Introduction

Is your iPhone's selfie camera failing to take photos? It may be time to replace the front camera. Use this guide to replace the front camera sensor assembly, including the ambient light sensor and microphone in an iPhone 7.

Opening the iPhone 7 will damage the waterproof seals on the display. If you do not replace the adhesive seals, your phone will function normally, but will no longer be water-resistant.

Video Overview

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Opening the iPhone's display will damage its waterproof seals. If you do not replace the seals, your phone will no longer be water resistant.

  • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

Cooper Chase - Reply

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
  • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

  • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?

joscarlos91 - Reply

Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button. Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
  • Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

The glass is completely cracked and the suction cup doesn't work because it gets air in between. any tip?

Display is glued and doesn't come off.

support - Reply

A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)

Mimic44444 - Reply

Last comment works well. Thank you !

Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.

Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.

Arni Benediktsson - Reply

Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case. Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.
  • Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.

jessica harlow - Reply

I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.

mcr4u2 -

Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain

Jordon Johnson - Reply

Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful

Jordon Johnson - Reply

This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/

Chris Gallego - Reply

Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.

Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.

amberron - Reply

Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.
  • Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone.

  • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.

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Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch. Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display. Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.
  • Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch.

  • Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.

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Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case. Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.
  • Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device.

  • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

  • Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.

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Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone. Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.
  • Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

  • Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

do not pull up pull sideways it will brake

Riley Patterson - Reply

Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
  • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

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Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place. Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.
  • Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place.

  • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.

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Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
  • Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

  • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

I just broke the cable to the battery!

No Bama - Reply

same dude im such a freak lol omg haha

Aiden Polaski - Reply

  • Remove four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower connector bracket, of the following lengths:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.4 mm screw

  • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

Steve - Reply

Just FYI, if you have an iFixit set with the PH000 you can use that bit to remove the Y000 if you're in a bind.

Colton Neifert - Reply

These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

Jeff Hurst - Reply

dang im such a freak i messed my i phone device up badly

Aiden Polaski - Reply

The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

dbright - Reply

What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

Nasser Nader - Reply

i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

joscarlos91 - Reply

for me a ph0 worked.

Filipe Silva - Reply

What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

Jacob Ramos - Reply

Remove the lower connector bracket.
  • Remove the lower connector bracket.

my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

Josh Martin - Reply

Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone.
  • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

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Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step. Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board. To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
  • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

  • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

  • To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

  • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

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Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector. Remove the bracket. Remove the bracket.
  • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

  • Remove the bracket.

Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

Makana Sylva - Reply

The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

s h - Reply

I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

Peter Pearson - Reply

Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board. This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.
  • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

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Remove the display assembly.

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Remove the three Phillips screws securing the earpiece bracket to the front panel:
  • Remove the three Phillips screws securing the earpiece bracket to the front panel:

    • Two 2.6 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

I am measuring the screws; my digital caliper measures both the top at 1.88mm not 2.6

Marco Cueva - Reply

I just checked the screw measurements and they match what’s shown in the guide. Are you sure you’re looking at the right screws?Are you sure your caliper is accurate? Was your iPhone serviced in the past and reassembled incorrectly? Something isn’t right. The measurements here are the screw lengths, by the way—just in case you were measuring something else.

Jeff Suovanen -

Remove the earpiece speaker bracket.
  • Remove the earpiece speaker bracket.

Add Comment

Lift the front facing camera out of the way to access the earpiece speaker. Lift the front facing camera out of the way to access the earpiece speaker.
  • Lift the front facing camera out of the way to access the earpiece speaker.

Add Comment

Remove the following two Phillips screws securing the earpiece speaker to the front panel:
  • Remove the following two Phillips screws securing the earpiece speaker to the front panel:

    • One 1.9 mm screw

    • One 2.5 mm screw

Add Comment

Remove the earpiece speaker.
  • Remove the earpiece speaker.

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Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the upper edge of the display assembly to soften the adhesive holding the front camera and sensor assembly in place.
  • Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the upper edge of the display assembly to soften the adhesive holding the front camera and sensor assembly in place.

    • Wait about two minutes before moving on to the next step to adequately soften the adhesive.

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Use a spudger  to gently pry the ambient light sensor out of its recess on the front panel. Try to get your tool all the way under the sensor to pry it away from the clear plastic beneath. If you pry only against the cable, the sensor may separate from the cable assembly and will need replacement. If you're replacing the sensor/cable assembly anyway, then it doesn't matter.
  • Use a spudger to gently pry the ambient light sensor out of its recess on the front panel.

    • Try to get your tool all the way under the sensor to pry it away from the clear plastic beneath. If you pry only against the cable, the sensor may separate from the cable assembly and will need replacement. If you're replacing the sensor/cable assembly anyway, then it doesn't matter.

I’m sorry to comment but this step is wrong. The proximity sensor is sticked to the display. I was following this instruction and the sensor was unvelded from the flex cable. Now it’s workless. It’s a fortune that the only problem with the iPhone is that while calling and holding the phone to the ear, the display doesn’t turn off.

I recommend to gently pushing against the transparent plastic enclosure near the sensor and once it’s unsticked, keep pushing against the sensor’s body. In this way the sensor welding doesn’t bear/support any extra load on it.

At least, my iPhone 7G had the sensor sticked to the display. Maybe some day I will replace it (around 20€ - 25€ on ebay)

I won't claim to iFixit nor stop using this website. Whenever I higly recommend to iFixt technitians to revise such kind of “errors”. At least for expensive devices like Apple products.

Miguel Cretu - Reply

I editted this guide and added these two comments. I already know about this “trick”. It’s your own decision to follow my suggestion or not.

Miguel Cretu - Reply

I have fixed 2 screens now on iPhone 7. The 1st time I didn’t have this problem, 2nd time I did. I would agree with Miguel Cretu and save yourself the hassle and remove the sensor and it’s surround altogether.

Wayne Lyell - Reply

Slide the pick towards the front facing camera housing, separating the adhesive holding the cable to the front panel. Stop just before the screw posts. Slide the pick towards the front facing camera housing, separating the adhesive holding the cable to the front panel. Stop just before the screw posts. Slide the pick towards the front facing camera housing, separating the adhesive holding the cable to the front panel. Stop just before the screw posts.
  • Slide the pick towards the front facing camera housing, separating the adhesive holding the cable to the front panel. Stop just before the screw posts.

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Use the pick to lift the camera cable up off of the two plastic posts on the front panel and separate it from the last of the adhesive. Use the pick to lift the camera cable up off of the two plastic posts on the front panel and separate it from the last of the adhesive. Use the pick to lift the camera cable up off of the two plastic posts on the front panel and separate it from the last of the adhesive.
  • Use the pick to lift the camera cable up off of the two plastic posts on the front panel and separate it from the last of the adhesive.

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Remove the front camera and sensor cable.
  • Remove the front camera and sensor cable.

Look at the camera assembly closely. There are two cables soldered together. Do not separate the pieces by mistake . Get the pick all the way below both ,and they will come off together.

turboduck2 - Reply

Good statement I made that mistake on my first iPhone 7 Plus !

Jaye - Reply

Its not mentioned here but there is a small philips screw at the top left that you may have to transfer to your new lcd panel

Steve - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Evan Noronha

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5 Comments

Question ..... I have a clear square plastic piece (open in the center) with a tab on one side. What is that for?

Mike McCleery - Reply

Holds the lens in place.

Edward L Johnson III -

No that is for the ambient light sensor. LCD replacements come with it already installed on em’, so you can toss it if you see it on the replacement already. The larger, circular plastic piece is for the lens.

Brandon Neves -

Does the iPhone 7 plus Front Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement has to do anything with the earpieces speaker? i have replace my iphone 7 plus screen and front camera and sensor cable replacement and speaker and it still doesn’t work. what could really be wrong with my iphone 7 plus?

Saleka Chang - Reply

Awesome tutorial, thank you! I couldn’t have replaced my camera without this! Well I could have but not the right way!!

Cynthia Hollingsworth - Reply

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