Introduction

Is your phone not detecting your charging cable? Does your charging port feel loose? It might be time to replace your Lightning connector assembly. Use this guide to replace the Lightning connector assembly which includes the lower microphones, antenna cable, and Lightning connector.

Note that this repair does require a fair amount of disassembly, and it will require time and caution.

Opening the iPhone 7 will damage the waterproof seals on the display. If you do not replace the adhesive seals, your phone will function normally, but will no longer be water-resistant.

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Opening the iPhone's display will damage its waterproof seals. If you do not replace the seals, your phone will no longer be water resistant.

  • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

Cooper Chase - Reply

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
  • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

  • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?

joscarlos91 - Reply

Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button. Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
  • Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

The glass is completely cracked and the suction cup doesn't work because it gets air in between. any tip?

Display is glued and doesn't come off.

support - Reply

A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)

Mimic44444 - Reply

Last comment works well. Thank you !

Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.

Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.

Arni Benediktsson - Reply

Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case. Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.
  • Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.

jessica harlow - Reply

I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.

mcr4u2 -

Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain

Jordon Johnson - Reply

Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful

Jordon Johnson - Reply

This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/

Chris Gallego - Reply

Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.

Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.

amberron - Reply

I second Jessica’s January 8 comment.  I just finished a battery replacement on my iPhone 7 and this step was the most nerve-wracking part.  I ended up using a sharper (but not razor-sharp) metal object to get this done with confidence (tried the spudger and guitar pick but not thin enough).  The tool I used was the exact duplicate of what iFixIt calls “iSesamo Opening Tool” in their tool selection.  I did the heat up with a hair dryer (after attempts with an iOpener hot pad) and the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).  I actually used the metal tool for most of the perimeter as well, just don’t go deep (you don’t need to).  Notes: my display was intact, and I was able to pull up fairly hard with a glass screen protector still on it.

Ted - Reply

Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.
  • Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone.

  • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.

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Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch. Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display. Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.
  • Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch.

  • Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.

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Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case. Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.
  • Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device.

  • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

  • Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.

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Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone. Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.
  • Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

  • Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

do not pull up pull sideways it will brake

Riley Patterson - Reply

Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
  • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

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Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place. Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.
  • Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place.

  • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.

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Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
  • Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

  • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

I just broke the cable to the battery!

No Bama - Reply

same dude im such a freak lol omg haha

Aiden Polaski - Reply

  • Remove four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower connector bracket, of the following lengths:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.4 mm screw

  • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

Steve - Reply

Just FYI, if you have an iFixit set with the PH000 you can use that bit to remove the Y000 if you're in a bind.

Colton Neifert - Reply

These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

Jeff Hurst - Reply

dang im such a freak i messed my i phone device up badly

Aiden Polaski - Reply

The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

dbright - Reply

What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

Nasser Nader - Reply

i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

joscarlos91 - Reply

for me a ph0 worked.

Filipe Silva - Reply

What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

Jacob Ramos - Reply

Remove the lower connector bracket.
  • Remove the lower connector bracket.

my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

Josh Martin - Reply

Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone.
  • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

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Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step. Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board. To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
  • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

  • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

  • To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

  • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

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Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector. Remove the bracket. Remove the bracket.
  • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

  • Remove the bracket.

Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

Makana Sylva - Reply

The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

s h - Reply

I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

Peter Pearson - Reply

Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board. This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.
  • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

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Remove the display assembly.

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Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case.
  • Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case.

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Remove the vent. Remove the vent.
  • Remove the vent.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine connector from its socket on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine connector from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine connector from its socket on the logic board.

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Remove the three 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine to the rear case.
  • Remove the three 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine to the rear case.

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Remove the Taptic Engine. Remove the Taptic Engine.
  • Remove the Taptic Engine.

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Remove the Phillips screw securing the Wi-Fi diversity antenna to  the rear case:
  • Remove the Phillips screw securing the Wi-Fi diversity antenna to the rear case:

    • One 3.2 mm screw

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Remove the following three Phillips screws securing the speaker to the rear case:
  • Remove the following three Phillips screws securing the speaker to the rear case:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • One 2.0 mm screw

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Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board.
  • Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board.

Hey may i ask…what is the use of both of the antenna cables?i just opened my iphone 7 plus and i found both of the cables are broken.if both of the cables are broken,what does it effect on my iphone?

Mohd Wazirul - Reply

Use tweezers to derout the antenna cables from their bracket on the logic board. Use tweezers to derout the antenna cables from their bracket on the logic board.
  • Use tweezers to derout the antenna cables from their bracket on the logic board.

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Use tweezers to remove the antenna cables from the clip on the speaker. Make sure to grasp the cable near the clip in order to avoid damaging the cable.
  • Use tweezers to remove the antenna cables from the clip on the speaker.

    • Make sure to grasp the cable near the clip in order to avoid damaging the cable.

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Use the tip of a spudger to slide the speaker assembly towards the logic board and off of the rear case. Use the tip of a spudger to slide the speaker assembly towards the logic board and off of the rear case.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to slide the speaker assembly towards the logic board and off of the rear case.

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Remove the speaker.
  • Remove the speaker.

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Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray. Press to eject the tray. This may require a significant amount of force.
  • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

  • Press to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force.

  • Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the iPhone.

    • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector.

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Remove the following Phillips screws securing the rear camera bracket to the rear case: One 1.3 mm screw
  • Remove the following Phillips screws securing the rear camera bracket to the rear case:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • One 2.5 mm screw

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Remove the bracket.
  • Remove the bracket.

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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the camera flash cable connector. Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the camera flash cable connector.
  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the camera flash cable connector.

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Remove the two 1.2 mm tri-point screws securing the upper cable bracket.
  • Remove the two 1.2 mm tri-point screws securing the upper cable bracket.

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Remove the upper cable bracket. Remove the upper cable bracket.
  • Remove the upper cable bracket.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper cable connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper cable connector.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper cable connector.

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Remove the Phillips screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna: Three 1.2 mm screws
  • Remove the Phillips screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

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Remove the top left antenna. Remove the top left antenna.
  • Remove the top left antenna.

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Remove the following Phillips screws:
  • Remove the following Phillips screws:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • One 2.2 mm screw

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Remove the bracket. Remove the bracket.
  • Remove the bracket.

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  • Remove the 2.2 mm standoff screw from the grounding bracket.

    • Standoff screws are best removed with a standoff screwdriver or standoff driver bit. A small flathead screwdriver can also do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

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Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way. Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way.
  • Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way.

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Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the lower cable connector. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the lower cable connector.
  • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the lower cable connector.

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  • Remove the following screws:

    • One 1.4 mm Phillips screw

    • Three 2.2 mm standoff screws

      • Standoff screws are best removed with a standoff screwdriver or standoff driver bit. A small flathead screwdriver can also do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

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Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way. Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.
  • Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector end of the logic board up. Make sure you're not pulling against any cables. If you feel resistance, check all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector end of the logic board up.

    • Make sure you're not pulling against any cables. If you feel resistance, check all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.

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Lift the battery connector end of the logic board and pull it up and out of the rear case. Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables. Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.
  • Lift the battery connector end of the logic board and pull it up and out of the rear case.

    • Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.

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Remove the 2.9 mm Phillips screw from the lightning connector.
  • Remove the 2.9 mm Phillips screw from the lightning connector.

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Remove the spring contact from the lightning connector. Remove the spring contact from the lightning connector.
  • Remove the spring contact from the lightning connector.

What’s the purpose of this contact? Is it just a ground?

Joshua Muir - Reply

Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the lightning connector cable in place.
  • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the lightning connector cable in place.

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Remove the two stickers covering the screws that secure the lightning connector to the bottom of the rear case. Remove the two stickers covering the screws that secure the lightning connector to the bottom of the rear case. Remove the two stickers covering the screws that secure the lightning connector to the bottom of the rear case.
  • Remove the two stickers covering the screws that secure the lightning connector to the bottom of the rear case.

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Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws from the rear case.
  • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws from the rear case.

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Use the pointed end of a spudger to separate the two microphones from the bottom of the rear case. Use the pointed end of a spudger to separate the two microphones from the bottom of the rear case.
  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to separate the two microphones from the bottom of the rear case.

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Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing Lightning connector cable, making it easier to remove.
  • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing Lightning connector cable, making it easier to remove.

  • Use a hairdryer or reheat your iOpener to heat the lower edge of the phone.

    • Wait for about a minute, allowing the adhesive to warm up before proceeding to the next step.

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Starting from the middle of the phone, slide an opening pick underneath the lightning connector to separate it from the rear case. Starting from the middle of the phone, slide an opening pick underneath the lightning connector to separate it from the rear case. Starting from the middle of the phone, slide an opening pick underneath the lightning connector to separate it from the rear case.
  • Starting from the middle of the phone, slide an opening pick underneath the lightning connector to separate it from the rear case.

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Continue to slide the pick towards the lightning connector to further separate the assembly from the rear case. Continue to slide the pick towards the lightning connector to further separate the assembly from the rear case. Continue to slide the pick towards the lightning connector to further separate the assembly from the rear case.
  • Continue to slide the pick towards the lightning connector to further separate the assembly from the rear case.

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Continue to slide the pick underneath the lightning connecter assembly. Stop sliding the pick once it passes the battery.
  • Continue to slide the pick underneath the lightning connecter assembly.

  • Stop sliding the pick once it passes the battery.

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Starting at the corner of the phone, slide the pick underneath the assembly towards the  lightning connector. Stop sliding the pick when it is reaches the lightning connector. Stop sliding the pick when it is reaches the lightning connector.
  • Starting at the corner of the phone, slide the pick underneath the assembly towards the lightning connector.

  • Stop sliding the pick when it is reaches the lightning connector.

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Gently pull the lightning connector out of its hole on the rear case. Gently pull the lightning connector out of its hole on the rear case.
  • Gently pull the lightning connector out of its hole on the rear case.

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Slide a pick below the lightning connector to further separate the lightning connector assembly from the rear case. Continue to slide the pick until the lightning connector assembly is no longer adhered to the rear case.
  • Slide a pick below the lightning connector to further separate the lightning connector assembly from the rear case.

  • Continue to slide the pick until the lightning connector assembly is no longer adhered to the rear case.

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Remove the lightning connector assembly. Before installing or replacing the Lightning connector assembly: Use a plastic tool to scour any bits of adhesive residue from the rear case.
  • Remove the lightning connector assembly.

  • Before installing or replacing the Lightning connector assembly:

    • Use a plastic tool to scour any bits of adhesive residue from the rear case.

    • Make sure the Lightning connector assembly is correctly positioned so that the two white dots on the iPhone's rear case show through the two circular cutouts in the Lightning flex cable. If they don't, the flex cable will remain misaligned and you won't be able to reconnect it to its socket on the logic board.

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A rubber gasket on the bottom of the Lightning connector protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. If you are installing a new Lightning connector assembly, you may need to carefully remove and transfer the gasket to the new part. The small adhesive patch on the bottom of each microphone also protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. For best results, replace the two adhesive patches before installing your Lightning connector assembly. The small adhesive patch on the bottom of each microphone also protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. For best results, replace the two adhesive patches before installing your Lightning connector assembly.
  • A rubber gasket on the bottom of the Lightning connector protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. If you are installing a new Lightning connector assembly, you may need to carefully remove and transfer the gasket to the new part.

  • The small adhesive patch on the bottom of each microphone also protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. For best results, replace the two adhesive patches before installing your Lightning connector assembly.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, reapply the display adhesive and follow these instructions in reverse order.

34 other people completed this guide.

Scott Havard

Member since: 06/27/2016

20,449 Reputation

129 Guides authored

9 Comments

The old ones were so easy! Why did Apple have to put the thing under the board!!!???

Christopher Crawford - Reply

Ho un problema dopo aver installato il nuovo connettore. Quando l’iphone e scarico, inserendo il cavo, appare sul display il simbolo batteria. Una volta acceso il cavo non viene più segnalato e la ricarica non continua. Cosa può essere?

Fabio - Reply

Can I use this one for the Iphone 8 too ? I havent found one for the Iphone 8.

Manuel Gatti - Reply

@manulkamul Not sure if you mean the guide or the part, but in both cases the answer is, unfortunately, no—the 8 is a different animal.

Jeff Suovanen -

Who made this tutorial. obviously they don’t know what they are doing. I have changed dozens of iphone 7+8 charging ports without removing the logic board. You guys are dumb

Dustin - Reply

Hey Dustin! This guide presents the safest way for a first time fixer to remove their Lightning connector port, remove old adhesive, and install a new part! I’m not sure how you would have gotten around the adhesive holding the cable down, maybe you were thinking of the 6s?

Sam Lionheart -

When she says remove the four screws from the logic board.” she means five. I learned that the hard way.

Dion Cursus - Reply

broke the logic board grounding bracket on step44.. any way to replace the whole thing or fix it? the end part what you have to lift came off. thanks!!

ietse venhuizen - Reply

I followed this guide and the microphone is still not working. Is it possible I have a bad part?

This is not my first technology fix, although first through here, and first iPhone 7.

Kristi Buysse - Reply

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