Difficulty
Moderate
Steps
28
Time Required
15–45 minutes
- Pentalobe Screws 1 step
- iSclack Opening Procedure 2 steps
- Front Panel Assembly 15 steps
- Battery 10 steps
Featured Guide
This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.
Tools
Introduction
Use this guide to bring life back to your iPhone 6 Plus with a new battery.
This guide instructs you to remove the front panel assembly; this is intended to prevent damage to the display cables. If you feel comfortable supporting the display carefully while peeling the battery out of the iPhone, you can skip the display removal and go directly to the battery removal steps.
For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery: Drain battery below 10%, then charge uninterrupted to 100%.
You can also use this guide to replace the battery connector bracket.
Video Overview
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Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
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Remove the two 3.6 mm P2 Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.
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If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone 6 Plus.
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Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction cup jaws.
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Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups.
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Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.
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Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.
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Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.
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Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 7.
It's very difficult if you want to remove a cracked screen. The suction cup and Islack won't work. Does anybody know a better way?
I don't recommend replacing the home button. HOWEVER, I would purchase an iSesamo tool (I paid $8 for a 3 pack on FleaBay) and jam that in between the frame and bezel. Most effective way to open a iPhone. Once you get used to it an iSesamo becomes an extension of your arm.
I use Scotch Tape, shipping tape. Put a couple of layers over the crack screen. That seals it so you can use the suction cup to remove the front of phone.
I used the plastic pry took and the spudger to open it up. I place the pry tool dead center below the home button and was able to put some pressure around the seam and the top popped up enough for me to get the spudger in there to hold it open and then work my way around with the plastic pry tool.
Apply clear packaging tape to screen. Then suction cup to that.
Tracey -
Use clear nontextured tape place that over the phone screen. Refer to any guide that addresses replacing a shattered screen
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If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:
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Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.
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While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.
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Using a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while continuing to pull up with the suction cup.
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Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.
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Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
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Pull the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.
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Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
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Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
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Remove the following Phillips screws from the battery connector bracket:
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One 2.3 mm screw
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One 3.1 mm screw
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for the iPhone 6 Plus, all screws were Phillips #000
Thank you :)
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Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.
Was not able to remove the battery connector bracket as one of the cable connectors was glued/stuck to the underside. Instead moved the bracket out of the way to disconnect the battery. Care should be taken not to over bend/stretch the ribbon cable.
That may be just the foam connector adhering to the bracket. If you pull up gently and twist slightly it should separate.
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Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
you may consider placing a thin non-conductive item between the connector and the socket like a bit of rubber band to prevent any power flowing during this procedure
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While holding the front panel open at about a 90º angle, remove the following Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:
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Three 1.2 mm screws
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One 1.5 mm screw
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One 2.9 mm screw
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I _love_ the color coding of screws. I know this is a little OCD, but it would be incredibly useful if there were an 8.5 X 11 you could print with indicated homes for where to drop items from each step of disassembly. That is, in the box for step 9, little colored circles for where to place each screw type. As long as you don't jostle the paper, it would make it a lot easier to know exactly where you are in reassembly.
On my iPhone 6 plus, none of the screws listed in this step are removable with the Phillips 00 screwdriver! I got this far and now am stymied because I can't get these four screws out! Any other screwdrivers I should use?
You are absolutely right, and you will strip the heads if you try very hard with the PH00. These screws are all PH000.
oscar -
Actually you don’t need to do steps 12 to 18 if you attach the display panel to the iPhone box as shown in step 7 and handle your iPhone with care during the replacement. I didn’t disconnect the display panel mainly because the more you work on the interior of your phone the higher is the chance you break something.
That's what I was thinking.
I skipped this series of steps too. I was very careful when removing the battery and never had an issue with the screen leaning back against the box that this battery shipped in. I even broke half of the third strip of adhesive but used a plastic card to slide under the battery and it slowly lifted out without applying heat.
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Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.
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While still supporting the front panel, use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and earpiece speaker cable connector.
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Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the home button cable connector.
![Image 1/2: When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to [guide|29424|disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.|stepid=69596]](https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/RPMd1FAQrkS6RYAC.medium)
![Image 2/2: When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to [guide|29424|disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.|stepid=69596]](https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/NuWrHmArFoiewC5H.medium)
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Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the display data cable connector.
The piece of advice about power cycling the phone by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery proved crucial to the success of my repair (camera and lens replacement). At first when charging the phone after closing it, I got a dark, blank screen with an intermittent buzzing noise. After re-opening the phone and making sure all cables had been properly reconnected, I ignored the advice to power cycle the phone. Still all I got was a dark, blank screen (and intermittent buzzing if charging t). Then I opened it a third time (leaving the screen connected and attached at a 90 degree angle) and I only disconnected and reconnected the battery. Voila! When I closed the phone and powered it up, I got the screen to light up!
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Finally, use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.
some images and guidance regarding reassembly would be helpful. You don't need to use the spudger to get them back on: fingers are better because there's a really subtle click you feel when you get them seated properly.
When you're reassembling, a note that this is the step where you should test for proper screen function would be really useful. First time I reassembled, I didn't seat something properly, got all the screws back together and then realized the screen wasn't functioning properly. Had to disassemble back down to step 14 and then re-reassemble.
I am having this issues right now! I have unplugged and plugged in these cables at least 20 times and each time I get white lines. I finally have it to where there are only 4 white lines and I am almost willing to live with it. Any suggestions?
Clean the screen connectors incase they are not making a clean connection
I'm having nightmares with the digitizer connector. Simply can't get it to work unless I'm applying some pressure on the connectors. Everything seems almost microscopically clean. Any suggestions friends?
Henry A -
could it be the replacement screen? test with your old screen and see if you have the same problem.
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Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.
Never remove the screen without disconnecting the battery. It's possible the back light can be blown and that's a even more difficult repair. Always, ALWAYS, disconnect battery before repairing items. (Unless it's not possible.)
How do you disconnect the battery from the screen?
The Step 11 disconnects the battery :)
I think you mean Step 8 :)
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Peel back the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom right edge of the battery.
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Gently pull the battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
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To avoid tearing the adhesive strip, be careful not to pull against the battery or lower components.
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Continue pulling, allowing the strip to slowly slip out from between the battery and the rear case. When you feel increased resistance from the strip, stop pulling and continue with the next step.
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When you feel increased resistance from the adhesive strip, pull it gently around the lower right corner of the battery.
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Continue pulling the adhesive tab upward and away from the right edge of the battery, allowing it to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case, until the strip comes free from the iPhone.
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Peel back the second battery adhesive tab from the bottom left edge of the battery.
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Again, gently pull the battery adhesive tab upward and away from the battery, allowing the adhesive strip to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case.
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Continue pulling the adhesive tab until you feel increased resistance, and then stop.
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When you feel increased resistance from the adhesive strip, pull it gently around the lower left corner of the battery.
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Continue pulling the adhesive tab upward and away from the left edge of the battery, allowing it to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case, until the strip comes free from the iPhone.
![Image 3/3: If you removed all three adhesive strips successfully, '''skip the next two steps and continue on [guide|29424|Step 28|stepid=69610]'''.](https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/bb2ICvmSOEDDWCDh.medium)
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Peel back the final battery adhesive tab from the bottom edge of the battery.
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Gently pull the battery adhesive tab upward and away from the battery, allowing the adhesive strip to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case.
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Continue pulling until the final strip comes free from the iPhone.
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If you removed all three adhesive strips successfully, skip the next two steps and continue on Step 28.
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If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.
![Image 1/1: Don't pry under the topmost section of the battery, near the volume up button and mute switch, or you may damage the [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+6+Plus+Audio+Control+and+Rocker+Switch+Cable+Replacement/31183#s74381|audio controls cable|new_window=true], which is adhered to the rear case just beneath the battery.](https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/CTYw5NbaTA4LFkPT.medium)
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Flip the iPhone back over and insert a plastic card between the left side of the battery and the rear case.
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Press the card in farther to break up the adhesive behind the battery.
![Image 1/1: When installing the battery, refer to [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+Battery+Adhesive+Strips+Replacement/56465|this guide] to replace your battery's adhesive strips.](https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/JMaZonjUUpwmD1nf.medium)
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Remove the battery from the iPhone.
Would be helpful to add an image of how to apply the new adhesive to the new battery and then seat it into the phone. Removing the adhesive you're blind to how it all fits in there.
I agree with this. The included strips were very difficult to use and I ended up scrapping them and using some double sided screen tape that I had laying around.
Apart from that the instructions were fine, I completed the task in about 20 minutes which included disassembling a second time to re-seat the display connectors.
can we put the iphone 6 plus battery into the iPhone 6s Plus?
Once again, ifixit comes through! I bought the battery and the repair kit and the new battery installed and charging. My only hitch was that the three adhesive strips all broke when I pulled on them. I had to heat the bottom of the phone to separate the battery. It was a small moment of panic, but it just required a bit more patience. Thanks for all you do!
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery: Drain battery below 10%, then charge uninterrupted to 100%.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery: Drain battery below 10%, then charge uninterrupted to 100%.
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34 Comments
Awesome directions and battery replacement. I feel like I have a new phone. Maybe I won't upgrade to a 7 Plus.
Excellent job! The instructions were very detailed and illustrated. Very helpful to anybody new to iPhone 6.
did it exactly and my phone doesn't come back on.
Nearly had a heart attack. Got the battery out out back everything together and my screen had lines in it and only half the screen worked. Eventually did some research and made sure that the cables for the screen were pushed in properly and it worked. Not a bad guide but just have to be careful with reattaching the screen. Everything else is easy especially if you don't mess up the adhesive strips.
great guide! was able to replace the batteries on my phone :) feels great! my only hitch was i tore the adhesive strips when taking them out but i managed to get the battery out with a combination of hairdryer to warm up the back of phone and using plastic cards and spudger thing to slowly pull it out. if i did it again i would probably use the hair dryer anyway to warm it up for like 20secs at a time and pull the tabs with even pressure (not too hard) and just be patient as it slowly peels off :)
Great guide. The phone I was working on was a refurb unit supplied by AT&T and the adhesive on the battery was more like glue. No tabs. Took heat, the card, and patience to get it out.
I have a question, My battery drains quickly for my IPhone 6s plus, and I want to buy a battery. does it make a difference? Will it last longer?
Yes. Replacing the battery should fix this issue. If you have a iPhone 6s, you should follow this guide: iPhone 6s Battery Replacement
Use the "Battery Life" app on the App Store to check battery health (current capacity, cycles etc). A new battery will make a difference. Disclaimer: not affiliated with app, just user.
Terrific instructions and photos! Guides like this make doing the repairs so much easier. Thank you.
Thanks for the great instructions! It's a kind of nerve-wracking repair given how small the screws are and how fragile all the connectors seem to be, but everything went smoothly. Woo!
Hey iFixit got my kit today and it went pretty easy. I did notice in the step by step when you follow the instructions using the iSclack if you click the "Skip to step 7" link it takes you to step 7 in the display replacement instructions. I noticed it pretty quickly when it started to have me remove the home button, but I could see it causing someone some trouble.
Other than that it went great.
Thanks for the tip! That step was being used in multiple guides, so the links got a little jumbled. I deleted the links to avoid confusion. Cheers!
Only one glue strip came off the way it should have. It was a pain trying to get the old battery out, but I finally got it following the on here on ifixit.com. I also lost my grip on the screen shooing my cat away and screwed up the front facing camera/earpiece cable. I have a new one on order but should be fairly easy to replace. Great instructions, but smaller hands would be a plus when working on these. Smallest screws I have ever seen. Don't let my comments discourage you from attempting to fix your own phone. These are great instructions and the parts they sell here seem to be first rate.
Awesome instructions, thanks! The adhesive strips are super tricky. I got 2 out of the 3, and had to use a hairdryer + plastic card for the third. I found it was easiest to keep the hairdryer blowing on it from the rear while I broke up the adhesive with a plastic card. At any rate, thanks for the help!
I have a question. My iPhone 6+ doesn't like the cold. It can be 100% charged and in 10 minutes of no use it shuts off due to low battery. If I keep it warm it lasts for a while. Is this a battery issue?
Does the low battery appear during normal temperatures? If it does, then its the battery. If not, then it might be something else. You can try going to the apple store and do the genius bar appointment saying my batteries been acting weird. It doesn't matter if your under warranty or not, they'll say whats wrong and ask if you want to pay their overpriced fix but say no thank you and follow from what they say.
kosho123 -
Thanks I will go try that.
I recently got a replacement battery from ifixit and followed every step and now in the settings theres a pop-up saying that i have to service my battery. The new battery barely let alone lasts more than two hours even after fully charged. Can someone please help me out.
Got the kit, 1hr and the iphone is back to new. I followed the advice of other reviewers about being careful to clip everything correctly and I managed to do it right at the first shot. A battery app said the capacity was down to 12% with the old one and now confirms I'm back to 100% efficiency. Great site!!!
i used the pointy black plastic stick in a rolling motion, to start pulling the adhesive strips...there is just a little bit of tacky there at the end that the point, if held almost parallel to the iphone and given a little twist to get it onto that tip. about to do the reassembly now...
success!!!
1 dropped screw that was found...""phew"".
i went ahead and removed the speaker, as i wanted to clean the 'grill'...i used alcohol and blew it out from the inside. got it nice and clean...no telling what THAT 'gunk' was...food grease i suspect(bought second hand...;)
now i have super sound coming from my iphone!!
THE BEST CUSTOMER SERVICE I EVER HAD!!!. I order my kit and got it in the next two days. When I got the kit I had everything I needed so I started to open my phone, but when I got to my Ph000 tool it was not undoing the screw. When I ask my brother to help he seen that the screw was striped. So I called Ifixit customer support and they answered on the second ring. The rep I was speaking with was so caring and listen to every word I said. He ask me for my order number and in 3mins he let me shipped out me another Philps screw driver.
Very clear guide by you guys. Like others, the adhesive tore before I could remove it from beneath the battery. I heated the phone a bit over the stove for a few seconds at a time and used the spudger along with the plastic opening tool to remove the battery. Using those two took quite a bit though because the adhesive was quite stubborn. The battery did get bent up a bit, which worried me at first, but it didn't break. As long as you're careful not to damage the ribbon cables and parts around the battery, then you should be good. Also, when placing the new battery in, make sure the battery cable is lined up with its connector because once you've placed that battery, it will be a pain to move it.
After the battery replacement the battery won't charge more than 9%? Anyone knows what it could mean? Did the restart with the two buttons.
Pentalobe P2
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