iPhone 5 Front Panel Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Replace the Front Panel on your iPhone 5.

Use this guide to replace your iPhone's cracked or otherwise damaged front panel.

The front panel does not come with the home button, front camera assembly, earpiece speaker, or the LCD shield plate.

Need a guide for the iPhone 5s screen instead? We got you covered!

Relevant Parts (continued)

Edit Step 1 Display Assembly  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Display Assembly  ¶ 

  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

Edit Step 3 iSclack Opening Procedure  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3 iSclack Opening Procedure  ¶ 

  • The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5 that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to step 5.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

    • The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the home button cable.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on step 7.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

  • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

  • If you're opening an iPhone with cracked glass, neatly lay a couple strips of packing tape across the front and squeeze out as many bubbles as you can. This will give the suction cup a surface to grab, and minimize the spread of broken glass.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly.

  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

  • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

  • With a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

  • There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Continue to pry up around the sides of the front panel assembly, detaching the clips along the left and right side.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several ribbon cables still attached at the top of the iPhone.

  • Once the clips have been released on the bottom and sides of the front panel assembly, pull the bottom of the assembly away from the rear case.

  • Lift the front panel assembly slowly up to about 90 degrees from the rear case.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Two 1.2 mm Phillips screws

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips screw

      • This screw tends to not be attracted to a magnetized screwdriver. Take care not to lose it when removing, and make sure it gets back into the right place—a magnetized screw may interfere with the compass.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

  • User note: To ensure correct installation, make sure you clip the small hooks of the bracket under and then lower towards the outside of the phone.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the three front panel assembly cables:

    • Front-facing camera and sensor cable

    • LCD cable

    • Digitizer cable

      • When reassembling your phone, The LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can cause white lines, or nothing at all to appear when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Edit Step 13 Earpiece Speaker  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13 Earpiece Speaker  ¶ 

  • Remove two screws securing the front-facing camera bracket to the display assembly.

    • One 4.1 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.2 mm Phillips screw

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • There is a small, black plastic spacer underneath the metal bracket at the upper screw. The upper screw goes through the metal bracket then through this plastic spacer.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Remove the earpiece speaker bracket from the display assembly.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Remove the earpiece speaker from the iPhone.

Edit Step 17 Front-Facing Camera and Sensor Cable  ¶ 

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Edit Step 17 Front-Facing Camera and Sensor Cable  ¶ 

  • Starting under the earpiece speaker contacts, use a plastic opening tool or the tip of a spudger to pry the front facing camera cable out of the display assembly.

  • Caution: Removing the earpiece speaker contacts can cause them to tear. Use extreme caution when peeling the contacts up.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Remove the front-facing camera and rear microphone assembly.

  • If you are installing a new part, your new part may have two tabs with holes in it used for manufacturing purposes. These tabs can be cut off with scissors.

  • There is a small, square plastic and metal holder for the proximity sensor. This holder is essential for the proximity sensor to function correctly.

  • If replacing the proximity sensor or camera make sure that the holder remains adhered to the back of the display. If it comes off with the old proximity sensor, remove it from the old sensor and use a tiny bit of adhesive to re-attach it to the back of the display.

Edit Step 19 Home Button Ribbon Cable  ¶ 

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Edit Step 19 Home Button Ribbon Cable  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the home button bracket to the display assembly.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the edge of the home button ribbon cable up from the display assembly.

  • Start on the right, at the area of the ribbon cable between the gold contact points, and work to the left.

    • Going left to right may rip your ribbon cable as the contacts are well adhered to the front panel.

    • Prying directly at one gold contact point or the other may break its soldering and pop it off the ribbon cable.

    • If you have trouble sliding the plastic opening tool under the contact points, flip the tool over and gently push against the right side of the contacts to loosen the adhesive, then try again.

Edit Step 21 Front Panel  ¶ 

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Edit Step 21 Front Panel  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the home button up from the display assembly.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Remove the home button from the display assembly.

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Remove two 1.2 mm Phillips screws from each side of the LCD frame (four total).

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Remove the two screws securing the LCD shield plate to the display assembly:

    • One 1.4 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.6 mm Phillips screw

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Remove the LCD shield plate from the display assembly.

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • The bare display assembly remains.

    • For reassembly, make sure to transfer over the LCD shield, home button, front facing camera assembly, front facing camera lens bezel and earpiece speaker to your new part.

  • Make sure to remove the protective cover from your new display assembly as well as the protective cover on the back of the LCD.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPhone 5 device page.

Required Tools

Phillips #000 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Small Suction Cup

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

P2 Pentalobe Screwdriver iPhone

$7.95 · 50+ In stock

Anti-Static Project Tray

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

54 Bit Driver Kit

$24.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Magnetic Project Mat

$19.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Tech Screwdriver Set

$59.95 · 50+ In stock

Anti-Static Project Tray

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Popular Device Products

Comments Comments are onturn off

As far as screens go, with the technology and build quality involved, I dont see this screen going under $200. Wasn't difficult at all, but there are still many steps involved. Great guide ifixit!

crevz, · Reply

thanx for all your great repair manuals

adam, · Reply

the fixit guides are really useful and great

adam, · Reply

Is it possible to replace only the front glass without the LCD-diplay and digitizer???

thisismyname, · Reply

The suctioncup solution could be tricky because a cracked display can be Very cracked. Try the good old metal spudger!

http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Metal-Spudge...

Ram it in between the cracked display and the middleframe about 5mm and bend downwards until the display come loose. Much easier.

Peter H, · Reply

Easier than I thought with the help of ifixit. Thank you so much!

Daryl Dean, · Reply

Overall the guide is very good!; I would add the following suggestions: if you are working with badly cracked screen, try putting first a small piece of contact paper first - about the size of the screen - (near the bottom of the phone) and then go with the plastic spudger; this will prevent damage to the case and will help a lot with the suction cup; this also will help with the small pieces of cracked glass preventing them from falling apart, and off course holding the damaged display together.

Mauricio Barreto, · Reply

My screen went in easily enough. But now it jitters around and presses buttons on its own when I'm not touching the screen. Totally sucks. Waiting for iPhone6 since I don't want to deal with another fix.

bsdaly1, · Reply

Are you sure all cables have a good connection? (Especially the digitizer one)

Zodiac,

after replacing my screen is black, i can tell the phone is on. the display just wont light up. any ideas?

NickDiakos, · Reply

Brilliant guide, helped me no end, did find on my screen that I had to transfer the circular plastic around the camera lens, but apart from that this guide was invaluable. thanks

Chris, · Reply

Thanks for you Repair guide, it is a good job manuals.

Truemax, · Reply

so easy compared to the iPhone 4 - took me no more than 30 mins on my second phone - can be tricky if the frames been bent from a drop as my first one was. Good stuff - keep up the good work

Ben Watkins, · Reply

If your iPhone wont start after the operation hopefully it will work buy holding down home button and lock screen button. I spent 3 extra hours figuring that out in fear for my iPhone's life!

After looking online that seemed pretty common, so its absolutely worth to mention buy the ifixit crew as the last step.

vegste96, · Reply

What do you do if your phone wont come on after holding home button and power button down?

jtitsworthwp,

Thanks simply simple to understand with the instructions provided thanks again:)

jason emmerson, · Reply

After I re installed the new screen i noticed it wouldnt fit as snug as the one before. Everything works except the headphone jack now. It sounds very faint and if i push on the screen near the headphone area it starts to sound better. Any suggestions on how to fix this?

Cory, · Reply

after the fix my phone wouldn't turn on which worried me but if you hold the power and home button it came on fine after 10seconds, maybe this should be added to the guide as it seems to be a common problem.

Archie Sinclair, · Reply

I have a much deeper appreciation for the workers who assemble these phones. Makes working on a laptop seem like working on a diesel truck in comparison! I highly recommend a clean, well lit workspace and at least an hour just in case something's fidgety. Problem areas include transferring the camera/speaker assembly and removing the contact pad from the home-button assembly. Remain calm and do not use too much force. Be prepared to spend some time on those things, otherwise a fairly simple process. Much nicer than the 4/4S, and I hope Apple continues to factor in the ease of screen replacement for all future models.

theneovega, · Reply

After installing the new screen and reassembling the phone I am getting lines of code on the opening Apple screen. Any ideas?? Thanks in advance.

hibdon, · Reply

Just replaced the display and battery on my cracked iPhone 5, worked flawlessly.

I didn't run into any glue problem. just be gentle and ease into it.

- The toughest part was the home button connector, but as long as you attack it from the right as noted here, you'll be fine, I can see how rushing / attacking through the left would ruin it.

- Also make sure the front facing camera is aligned with the hole when you re-assemble.

You can see that this is a late generation consumer electronic device from Apple, as this process is amazingly straightforward, and replacing the screen was designed into the product unlike earlier iPhone models (and iFixit gives you the insider knowledge you need).

gullaud, · Reply

Hey guys i´ve a big problem with my iphone 5 concerning the new touchscreen.

I´ve bought a complete touchscreen, with a new home button, camera and so on.

Today i´ve put the new one into my iphone in general it works but there are 2 big problems:

first the new touchscreen doesn´t keep on the iphone means that i´m not able to reassembly the screen at my phone because it´s almost moving and doesn´t i don't know how to say it "click" into the holes.

I think it´s important to know that I've changed the hole back cover but im as good as sure that I've put the parts that hold the screen the right way.

the second problem is about the home button and the two screws on the downer side of the iphone.

The hp doesn't react to anything and the two screws to not leave in the phone they do net become i don't know how to say it english im sorry

i mean so that they do not fall out on their own.

Would be great if you could help me because i really don't know what to do and need my iphone

Marsi, · Reply

If this is a part from iFixit please email support [at] ifixit [dot] com. If it's not, I would recommend talking to the company you purchased it from or post up on ifixit.com/answers

Scott Dingle,

The only way I differed from this guide was I used a Stanley knife at the bottom of the phone to remove the screen. The suction cup didn't work due to the screen being shattered.

Thank you very much

Joseph Buckton, · Reply

Tape the screen to hold it together and press out any air bubbles, then place the suction cup on the lower part of the screen on top of the tape, this should give the broken more stability as you pull up.

P clark,

Has anybody had any issues with the display's color kind of lose it's color during use? You can lock screen and next time you use it, color is back. I can't make it happen either. A customer of mine's phone keeps doing this and I am on a 2nd replacement.

The only thing to note is while removing the front panel cable bracket (step 6), one of the screw mounts was off (assuming it was from the phone being dropped). Other than that bracket being a pain to screw back in due to the short cables, everything seems fine.

Thanks,

Steve

Steve, · Reply

thankyou for this! I followed the steps. Just making sure that all parts were swapped over and that the LCD clip and plugs are firmly seated was the important bit for me. Also to be careful with lifting up the home button sensor thing too. But this guide helped me 100% to replace my cracked glass.

nathan ong, · Reply

Phone wont come on at all? Tried the power button and home button but didn't work? And suggestions.

jtitsworthwp, · Reply

i put the new screen in and now it is over sensitive and has what looks like static how do i fix?

jess aller, · Reply

Sounds like a defective display assembly. Please contact us if it was purchased from us.

Scott Dingle,

No matter what I tried, I cannot seem to get the screen to lift off even if I give it a good tug. I've removed the bottom screws using the 54-bit driver set and I have about 3 different suction cups, different sizes and followed steps precisely and non lift the screen away.. It it super glued to the rest of the unit???

chrismitchellclare, · Reply

When reassembling, make sure to disconnect and reconnect the battery (i.e. power cycling the phone). Sometimes a new screen won't work before power cycling the phone.

Christiaan, · Reply

Awesome guide. Only suggestion is maybe a note about reconnecting the cables. Took me a while to figure out it just needs a firm push but for a long time I was nervous about it since there was no indication about what to do. Great job in any case!

On that note, my replacement screen has two "dis colored" spots (tan-ish) on the LCD up near the ear opening. Any idea how to fix or is this a defect?

Jonas, · Reply

Sounds like something is pushing against the back side. Typically a cable.

Scott Dingle,

I just completed my repair and have a sunspot on the display. Has anyone seen this or know why it's happening?

bradmclaughlin, · Reply

See my reply above

Scott Dingle,

This looks great, but the repair kit I have doesn't have the ribbon cable on the screen. Will this still work, or did I get screwed over?

Kenny, · Reply

Is this from us?

Scott Dingle,

Unfortunately, no. In hindsight, maybe I should have, but I got it off of ebay. I could send a link if it would help. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement-Fron...

Kenny,

That's just glass, not a display assembly.

Scott Dingle,

Guide helped a lot. Went back and forth to understand the order of putting things back

sathyajsn, · Reply

Incredible guide! Using this and the repair kit, I replaced the damaged screen on my phone with minimal trouble. The guide is right; there are a number of small, very small, and - ok - downright tiny screws. I didn't buy the cool magmat so I used a big piece of paper and deviated from the guide a bit.

Since there isn't really any overlap between the LCD screen guard, the front camera assembly and the home button I replaced each one individually instead of disassembling the entire phone first. I got about halfway through the camera assembly but then removed the guard to give myself better access. I also felt more comfortable manipulating the new part with a big metal backing plate on it, call it peace of mind. After getting the backing installed I finished up the camera assembly then moved to the home button. At any given time there was a minimum of screws to be lost or confused with others.

As a last note the most worrisome part for me was the contacts had to spend a while carefully manipulating them.

TCelicaGTBoi, · Reply

What is another way to remove the screen in step one that does not involve the suction cup? There are fragments of glass missing from my screen so it is not an option. I'm not familiar enough with what parts inside are delicate to know how to go about removing it.

Luke, · Reply

Cover the screen with packing tape or similar material. That will allow the iSclack or suction cup to work properly.

Scott Dingle,

I been repairing a few iPhone 5 but I have serious problem when I replaces the display assembly.Most of them suffer from issues like multiple white boxes on first row of screen, screen skipping n screen not responding to touch. Does anyone has similar problems? I am not sure if is the display assembly quality issue or my skill issue.

Kenneth Hoh, · Reply

Are these screens from us?

Scott Dingle,

I bought one from ebay and had same problem, immediately removed it to return.

Mona,

Is this guide also for iPhone 5s and iPhone 5c?

Andreas Asheim, · Reply

We have guides for both 5s and 5c display replacement. Please see following links:

5s - https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+5s+D...

5c - https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+5c+D...

Andrew Stone,

Great fix! Went super easy and coupled with a PureGear Roll on anti-fingerprint screen protector my screen is even better than the original!

Find the screen protector kit here!

http://www.pure-gear.com/shop-by-device/...

Sebastian Baker, · Reply

Just installed the new digitizer screen and LCD, everything installed fine however when powered on there are small white boxes all along the top of the screen that wont go away. when touched, the screen does not respond in that area. Whats up with that?

Ryan, · Reply

I have the same issue with the small white boxes. whats up with it??

breoshshala,

Please shoot us an email so we can get you taken care of.

Scott Dingle,

I broke the glass front of my I phone5, which I got repaired at a cost of Rs.6500.00 ($110). It worked as original for six months. Yesterday a black circle 3cm diameter developed just above the home button. The glass front is intact. This time I want to fix it by myself. The phone is working nice other than the hindrance by this black spot while typing a massage. Can any body guide me as to which part is to be replaced, and how can I order the same along with necessary tools.

joginder dhar, · Reply

Great help. Cheers whoever put this up.

Neil Devine, · Reply

You guys need to update your screwmap for this guide (iPhone 5 Display replacement) because the step numbers in the guide do not coincide with the screwmap

Phil, · Reply

Everything went fine with my screen installation. Works good, only problem I have found is with my camera. Rear camera works fine, when I switch to front facing camera it freezes up, wont allow to switch to recorder, square, panorama, etc. Also will not allow to switch back to front rear camera. I took the phone apart and re attached all the camera components to make sure I had a good connection but still no change. What could the problem be?

rubenromero76, · Reply

Is this a screen from us?

Scott Dingle,

I have the same issue.

Sascha van Tillo,

This was an easy 10 minute job with the kit from ifixit that included the button etc. The hardest part was the final ribbon connector, some good old fashioned patience helps you there.

Robert Moitoza, · Reply

I got my screen fixd, but for some reason the screen keeps freezing up at random times. It never did this before with my cracked screen. If someone can help me I would appreciate it because I've already had to pay the man who did this one hundred and fifity dollars. Thanks!

waldropmadison, · Reply

Possible it's defective. If you paid a person to repair your phone, take it back and demand it be fixed correctly.

Scott Dingle,

I did the whole thing in about 90 minutes. I was stuck at step 18 for about 30 minutes though. The screws were held on too tight and neither PH#000 nor J#000 screw drivers were working. I finally placed the LCD panel in front my radiator for a few minutes and then used a flat head 000 screw driver. I don't know why this happened. The rest of the steps worked smoothly.

qosmioamit, · Reply

Question: Two iphone 5 screen replacements and how buttons that don't work!? The screens are flawless, they look great but the home buttons are not working on either phone...what gives?? Thanks for your response...

Frankly, · Reply

Are these from iFixit?

Scott Dingle,

Hardest part was definitely removing/inserting the screen. These bastards are tight(which is good) took me a while to get it off, especially with the cracks being around the home button. takes patience and effort, but I did find that being a little more forceful and less careful than i thought i had to be was more effective. Removing the components from the old screen and attaching them to the new one was pretty straight forward, Just be careful with all the contact points and ribbons. However the Apple screen has a little clear plastic circle that frames the front camera that the iFixit screen did not have. I used it on the new one, but it was never fully secured and still had to be sure to realign the front camera several times. Putting the new screen in proved challenging. The directions made it seem far easier, and for a while I didnt think it was going to fit (it eventually did). Now just going to wait to make sure everything continues to work properly. Overall, defintly worth it

fakik0240, · Reply

I followed the instructions to the tee however the digitizer just does not want to work....any tips?

Random Guy, · Reply

Is this part from iFixit?

Scott Dingle,

My screen works before I try to shut it as soon as I try to place it back in place, it goes black the backlight works but nothing on it how can I fix that

Caro, · Reply

The guide with the photos and the video was very helpful, my phone look like a new one.

I only got a little complicated connecting the cables again but still is working without issues.

valeriamedellin, · Reply

I replaced the LCD with a new one with no problems. After assembly the touch screen does not work. Any ideas?

EJ Landry, · Reply

Is the part from iFixit?

Scott Dingle,

Completed my first front panel replacement today and happy to say that it was a huge success. It was more involved than what the step by step instructions have, but the video was the perfect guide to all the steps I had to take. I would highly recommend the Slcack tool for removing the screen. Any other method could get you into trouble(cracked screen etc)

younesyasin, · Reply

Hi to all. I need help with more explanation since english is not my first language.

My problem is a broken screen. I can still use the iphone perfectly and everything works fine, i just have a cracked glass. Isnt there a way of only replacing the broken glass? If not, which guide should I follow and which replacement parts should I buy?

My confussion appears because there is a "Display Assembly Replacement" guide and the "Front Panel Replacement" guide, and i dont know which should i follow, if any of these two.

Thanks a lot!

johnetix, · Reply

When i finished and assembled new display, iphone didn't switched on, but when switched on- nothing appeared on the screen just black shining. So if you have the same problem- go to step 11 read the ! sign- i got the problem with LCD connector- it often pops off when you attach your front pannel to its place, so simply reconnect battery and recheck three front panel cables- this will work.

PS Plastic spacer in step 14 was the trickiest thing to put back :)

hmndvc, · Reply

It might be helpful to mention how easily these screws can be stripped in the video. Now, I have to order the home button assembly.

daddy2caius, · Reply

I have just changed my screen, and my phone turns on, but the touch screen doesn't work. I now cannot power down the phone to take it apart and have another look! I purchased my screen from you guys, and followed the link to herr from the email received. Please can someone advise!?!?

Kat906, · Reply

Success! Fixed my shattered screen in 20 minutes. Spend the extra $10 and get the kit with the camera and home button pre-assembled, it's worth it.

Quick tip: If your screen is cracked put packing tape over the screen so the suction cup has a smooth leak free surface to do suction cup stuff =)

michaeldeboef, · Reply

Having completed this repair using the rear camera part from Ifixit I have to comment that the camera is noticeably lower quality. Its not huge - You don't notice it looking at the photos scaled down to fit but viewing one for one there is significant detail lost. My staff member has an Iphone 5 bough at exactly the same time as mine so I was able to take a photo side by side on his and mine after my repair and when you view 1 for 1 pixel in product boxes on mine the text was just a colored blur where on his although you couldn't read the text it was more obviously text. Overall though its still better than having a camera that wouldn't focus at all and being that Apple seem to refuse to supply genuine spare parts (Which there has to be a low against??? - Imagine if a car manufacturer did that) its still good buying one from someone who gives good support. At the end of the day its a phone camera not an SLR and its still better than the older Iphone 4 camera.

matt, · Reply

If you want the same quality parts but cheaper prices. Go to saintphoneshop.com! They have the same Retina Display. No discoloration, No dead pixels, and no scratches whatsoever. Hurry and get 10% off with the coupon "take10" (without the quotes)

Nick, · Reply

Many users don't know how to fix grayed out Wifi on iPhone. Below are the ways:

http://www.transfer-iphone-recovery.com/...

Turn off the airplane mode by tapping Settings > Airplane Mode, then do the network resetting by tapping Setting > General > Reset > Reset Network Settings, and finally restart the iPhone 4S.

If you have tried the above solutions, but still face the iPhone 4S Wifi issue, you can check if your 4S is upgraded to the newest available software. You can restore the iPhone 4S after checking the software updates in Apple iTunes.

Besides, you can use iPhone Transfer to solve the Wifi problems.

http://www.transfer-iphone-recovery.com/...

helenuser, · Reply

This is a great guide. However, I'm having a hard time popping the screen back into place. Everything works but I'm afraid of putting too much pressure least I crack it again. Any advice?

amciotola, · Reply

I would recommend keeping multiple pieces of double-sided tape for each step that requires removing screws. Also perhaps label them, or take notes, so you know which piece of tape (and the screws attached to it) go with which step number. It's easy to confuse screws, especially if you go past these instructions to remove everything required to replace the ribbon cable that is necessary for the buttons.

irwin fletcher, · Reply

Ordered and received the Phillips #00 Screwdriver ($5.95 · 50+ In stock). It is a tiny Philips screwdriver. The screws next to the lightning port have tiny star-shaped holes. I will have to find a different screwdriver.

jacklingwood, · Reply

Unfortunately, the kit I ordered that was to come with a suction cup didn't include one; thanks for quality control, ifixit. Tape doesn't work. Now what?

btarver, · Reply

I'm sorry to hear that. I have a suction cup being sent out today (Tue 3/11/14) and it will be there tomorrow for you.

Scott Dingle,

I've managed to replace the battery successfully in my iPhone5, but something went wrong with a friend's (battery status is stuck, sometimes the phone reboots for no reason).

So, i decided to open it up again and reseat the ribbon cables in case they came loose.

I can't open it now. The Pentalobe screwdriver is worn out! I can't open these screws no matter what. I don't know what to do now as I can't be sure I haven't worn out the actual screws themselves, too. Any ideas?

Saltank, · Reply

I seem to be having a similar situation. Attempting to open the phone again and either the pentalobe screws or the screwdriver itself is stripped. Any suggestion is welcome for removing the screws.

Battery replacement went well and works great. But I must have a loose (hopefully not damaged) display ribbon.

pwarkolla,

Saltank, thanks to your comment I didn't overtighten those little screws! I would try to get a better quality driver from a local hardware store to see that helps, the one ifixit sent are not very good quality. If that doesn't work, you may have stripped the screws.

SMSHAHKHAN,

Wish I ordered a back case as well with my repair being so easy!

Daniel Hatton, · Reply

my phones screen displays the dead battery sign and the plug below it sign too, when your phones battery is dead. Bought a new battery and charged overnight...... any ideas?

Steve Freed, · Reply

Hi Steve! I'm experiencing the same issue. Were you able to fix it? Please let me know

Brittany Hutchinson,

Steve. Please contact me asap re: the issue on your phone. Thank you.

Brittany Hutchinson,

Step 4 is a bit dangerous, as the Display is pulled out very fast and (depending on the position, the suction cups are placed at) it could stress the cabels connecting display and mainboard. So, please, hold the phone with finger and thumb at the top, to avoid the display is pulled out to fast.

Guido Dampf, · Reply

I sure wish they did a better job showing in the video how hard it is to take of the front screen without the iSclack tool!

CHRISMIYAMOTO, · Reply

I had to position the suction cup _over_ the home button in order to get the screen far enough away from the frame to slide my trim tool in there. Putting it down above the home button just wasn't working at all...

tparkinson, · Reply

Was someone able to answer this question? I have the same issue

Brittany Hutchinson, · Reply

I found it was easier to start opening from the top left of the display and working straight down towards the home button as there are no clips in this particular area. I realize there are cables on the right side right next to the area, however, this way requires less force as a starting point. Let me know what you think.

boxerbc, · Reply

I think that's not a good idea as the top of the display is held in place with plastic tabs.

If you apply to much force they can break.

Johnny, · Reply

This part was the most frustrating part of the guide, granted I didn't do the whole thing. I was expecting to slip the plastic separator tool in-between the case and the display. This did not happen and I ate away at the tool in the process. For me after much pushing on the top edge of the case and pulling the screen away it released all of a sudden. I managed to make a dead stop at 90 degrees, but felt like I almost ripped off the ribbon cables(I didn't).

maxturkewitz, · Reply

No matter how hard I tried, I could not get the screen to separate far enough to where the pry tool could get it. Reading through some of the other comments, I followed 2 other people's advice to work the bottom left corner above the headphone input and then use a pushpin at the same time. (this is not recommended, but it worked!) I made a couple of hard to see marks in the corner but was finally able to get the screen off. I also did NOT take off the connectors to the screen and skipped the next few steps all the way down to step 14. Looks like a lot of people damaged their phones that disconnected the top screen.

CHRISMIYAMOTO, · Reply

The suction cup didn't work, because of my destroyed front glass.

So i take "tesa powers trips".

With that help, i had enough force to pull up the front display from the rear case.

ulrichstumm, · Reply

Suction cup didn't work for me. I tried for half hour with my nerd biceps. In the end, I inserted an xacto blade below the home button to create a gap big enough for me to put in a guitar pick and finally able to pry it open. In the process I scratched the frame so you have to be very careful if you decide to take this approach.

Meng, · Reply

Where can you buy "Tesa Powerstrips?

latraelmayo, · Reply

There is Less supply of Powerstrips but here may help http://www.iboxfix.com/iphone-5-c-164_12...

Raina,

The glass on my phone was completely destroyed, making the suction cup entirely useless. I was pretty close to giving up when i tried putting a strip of clear packing tape on the screen and squishing out all the bubbles. Put the suction cup on this and it worked perfectly.

chriscopass, · Reply

Thank you. I broke the front glass with this technique..

Olivier S, · Reply

Used a suction cup from my Garmin Navi. The one you use to stick it to your windshield. It has a nice plastic "handle" and made things a lot easier... almost too easy that I nearly pulled the screen off the cables. Go easy on this step.

michaelychien, · Reply

I'd Advise Against The Suction Cup Here As It Will Separate The Glass From The Black/White Framing That You're Actually Supposed To Pry Under. I Found When Using The Suction Cup, The Glass Came Up, But The Framing Stayed Stuck. If You're Replacing The Entire Display It's Not As Much Of A Problem, But If You're Installing Any Other Part Or A Custom Housing, You'll Notice Your Screen Has A Bit Of "Play" When Pressing Down.

Mitch, · Reply

While holding down on the lower sides of the iPhone, I found inserting the plastic separator just to the right of the audio jack while gently applying pressure down and back from the edge popped the bottom of the display assembly up. Keep in mind to do this while pulling back on the suction cup ring, like the guide says constant, but gentle force at the same time. Another note is to have the suction cup ring vertical to align with the length of the display, that made the process much easier.

Canis Lupis, · Reply

You rock! I was having trouble getting the thing to budge, but the moment I put the plastic tool near the audio jack, the screen immediately popped up.

Justin,

This should be in the guide. The front panel is actually recessed a bit here making it much easier to get a tool in at this point. No way I would have opened it without this tip. Thanks!

dave,

Thank you so much! This should DEFINITELY be added to the main guide.

After struggling for half an hour and nearly giving up, I was able to easily lift up the screen once I tried to wedge it near the headphone jack!

Thanks so much!

diegoholt,

I've been using a metal flat opening tool along with the suction cup to pop these bad boys open - remember the tape on the screen trick if you have a smashed screen - so the suction cup can grip and stops the glass going everywhere!

Ben Watkins, · Reply

Definitely a difficult step. Make sure not to pry the screen from framing. Also, I kept pushing the power button on while attempting separate the frame. Keep your fingers clear from the top of the phone because having it turn on while the casing is popped is a little nerve racking!

Andrew, · Reply

I had trouble with this step too, since I had to apply quite a lot of force on the suction cup when pulling up on the screen while holding down on the frame with my fingernails. Eventually it popped free, but came almost to 90 degrees before I was able to stop it. No damage, but nerve-wracking, and if there was a better technique, it would be good to figure it out and share the information here.

Adam Engst, · Reply

Be very gentle! I overdid it and, though the repair was successful, there's now a bit of play when pressing on the top right quadrant of the screen.

plasticpool, · Reply

When i was reassembling, the screen broke form the pressure. I recommend putting the screen towards your working surface and press your phone downwards. That way your screen is always straight.

Kenichi Haramoto, · Reply

My front panel flew right off after some puling on the suction cup - no prying was necessary.

Fortunately, no cables got damaged. Take care.

Leonid, · Reply

I can confirm, the Garmin sucker cup worked like a charm. Within 5 seconds it popped open.

Nolan, · Reply

everything worked but i got a problem i hope anybody can help me very fast !

when i lift the screen up it just lift the glass up not the whole display ....

what should i do ??

thanks in advance

edis, · Reply

Need extra careful while pulling the screen.

Once there is a gap between the screen and the frame, insert the plastic opening tools and move it around the screen. But don't use it for top area (near to power button) as there is a location for flexible ribbon cable.

Once the bottom part is free, the screen will pop out easily.

Ardi Purwalaksana, · Reply

Suction cup is very difficult with a cracked screen. Stick something in the ear jack and carefully push it and the edge of the screen will pop up. Use the plastic stick to open it.

Julie To, · Reply

I had trouble opening the screen due to a warped suction cup that was bent up at one spot and also due to my cracked screen. My solution: used double sided tape between the suction cup and the glass. I had some command strips, but I think any double-sided tape could work.

earthhasassri, · Reply

Use needle its a best way

imran, · Reply

I could never even get the case open. Waste of $30.

dpetronis, · Reply

The suction cup will hold if you put a piece of tape over the cracked screen.

prattdesign1, · Reply

BE VERY, VERY CAREFUL, HERE!!

-The repair went horribly wrong during this step, for me. I pulled-up on the suction cup, gradually increasing force. Instead of just opening a gap to get the plastic prying tool into, the whole thing gave way at once. This damaged the connection between the display assembly and the rest of the iPhone.

-During this step, I would recommend placing a rubber band around the phone, over the home button and one near the top of the iPhone for good measure. Even better, invest in the "iSclack". In my case, it would have saved me about fifty bucks and three days without a functional iPhone.

-When I reassembled, The screen was blank, but I could still sync with iTunes. I may have been able to replace only the cables, but I wasn't sure how extensive the damage was and I was done messing around with it. I replaced the whole display assembly, and now it works just fine.

-This was STILL cheaper than buying a new phone, and I learned a lot. Overall, it was a good experience.

peterthemick, · Reply

my phones screen displays the dead battery sign and the plug below it sign too, when your phones battery is dead. Bought a new battery and charged overnight...... any ideas?

Was someone able to answer this question? I have the same issue

Brittany Hutchinson, · Reply

while opening the front panel, i lose control and it gone so fast. And now, after putting it back, the screen is not working. What am I supposed to do? I dont have any other phone in hand and I need to repair it immediately.

yakbu, · Reply

as I wanted to close the display again, the sealing ring wasn't attached to the edge of the glass anymore. did someone have the same issue? thx for help!

luc, · Reply

When reinserting the screen, be sure to start from the top and insert the plastic tabs on the screen into the case before advancing the rest of the screen into place, finishing at the bottom. The screen will snap into place once lined up to complete the insertion.

jeff, · Reply

This is actually very important, I was having trouble getting the front panel to go on by starting at the top. I started from the bottom instead and the bottom ended up secure, but not the top. I then tried to take the front panel back off, but because the top portion was already loose the force required to pull off the bottom led to one of the ribbon cables at the top of phone breaking.

jjensik11,

When reattaching the screen, please start from the top. BEFORE you try to push the bottom of the screen down and snap it in, use some pressure from the bottom edge to push the screen towards the top of the phone. I suggest that by the time you get to the middle of the phone (starting from the top), you do this. It will allow for getting the clips at the bottom by the sync cable clipped in and will sit nicely and allow for you to use overall pressure to make sure the whole screen is secured. I didn't do this and I damaged the seal on the right side of the phone and almost separated my screen from the digitizer trying to reseparate it to reattach the screen. Be very carefull to follow these steps I listed. If you do this while reattaching the screen, you'll have no problem.

zhunterzz, · Reply

I also agree with it being not necessary to remove the complete front panel. I just kept it attached and kept it at an angle as I pulled with gentle, continuous force (at a 45 degree angle as suggested) on the battery pull tab. It eventually came loose, I set the new battery in and everything works perfectly.

Jen Robinson, · Reply

That's the way I did it too. I put a piece of packing tape from the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back. That kept me from putting any pressure on the ribbon cable should the phone slip and the whole screen try to lift away from the backing.

Ed Chapman,

I'm having trouble removing the screen and the silver protective cover. When doing the suction cup and prying, the screen came right off, but the protective cover remains. I've tried gingerly prying on the silver cover, as well as using the suction cup directly, but have had no luck. Any ideas? See the picture:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ats3l3c0jgula3...

Justin, · Reply

Be careful taking the front panel off. I tried to pull it very careful but it ripped. One of the cables was damaged but luckily, it was the cable that goes out with the old front panel. It also ripped 4.1 mm Phillips screw from step 13 and it jumped to the floor. I was lucky and recovered it from the floor.

In the end everything was fine and phone works great. But remember to be super careful.

drummerMarkku, · Reply

Anyone have any idea why the 1.6mm screw is not magnetic? Just wondering why this screw seems to be made of aluminum, its the first screw of its kind as far as iphones go.

crevz, · Reply

The compass is right next to it.

Tom Chai,

I'd recommend if they made that clearer in the guide, luckily I put them back in right, its the one with the little bit of blue on it if i recall that isn't magnetic

Matt,

is it necessary to disconnect the front panel assembly cables fore removing the battery ?

or can you leave it on wile replacing the battery ?

aardappel, · Reply

I just finished this process using the battery replacement kit from ifixit and it went easily. I did NOT remove the entire screen but rather just had someone hold it at less than a 90 degree angle until I got the battery out. I found it took a while to slowly pry the battery out. Take your time and alternate between gently using the plastic tool and pulling on the plastic pull tab that says "for authorized use only" or something like that. It was MUCH easier than disconnecting the entire screen for the process. Hope this helps.

david,

Rule #1 on electronics repair methodology: to prevent damage to the electronics, power should be the first thing to be removed and the last to be restored. I'd disconnect the battery before touching anything else, a slip of the screwdriver or a loose screw could cause a fatal short circuit.

andrewcilia, · Reply

It's no need to remove front panel to change battery. I just skip to Step 10 and successfully changed battery, and it works well. And THANKS TO ifixit.com, IT IS AWESOME!

sorrowboy, · Reply

I skipped steps 6-9. leaving the screen attached to the phone makes it that much easier and quicker to repair

Frank, · Reply

Mon téléphone a pris l'humidité et présente un fond d'écran d'aspect granuleux. Du coup l'éclairage n'est plus uniforme, nuisible pour une bonne lecture de l'écran.

J'ai démonté l'écran, une pellicule grasse et collante entre le LCD et la plaque métallique. J'ai nettoyé à l'alcool. Tout remonter avec la crainte que le téléphone ne fonctionne plus.

Le téléphone s'est rallumé, tout fonctionne normalement mais j'ai toujours ses traces sur le fond d'écran. Il faut le changer!

Mes difficultés étaient de remettre les petites vis aimantés, difficiles à remettre!

Merci à IFIXIT pour ce tutoriel très explicite.

Patrick Rosa, june 23 2014

pkrosa, · Reply

So, of COURSE I dropped the screw that you are not supposed to lose. I was being careful, but as I did not want to lose track of it, I attempted to put it back ing the phone FIRST. Bad idea. This makes the plate kind of springy, and my screwdirver slipped, and the screw popped up, spun in the air, fell between my legs, bounced off my padded chair, and clattered around on the floor. I searched for an hour, and could not locate it. BE IT KNOWN, at least in MY CASE, the screw WAS INDEED attracted to my magnet (I keep a powerful round magnet stuck to the shaft of my drivers to provite the magnetism, far more powerful than a regular magnetic screwdriver. This being the case, I WAS able to provide a substitute fron a bag of iphone 4 screws, and my compass calibrated flawlessly upon power-up. YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY, but I thought I'd add my experience.

stevesontheroad, · Reply

Be warned, the 1.6mm screw is exceptionally easy to strip. I haven't been able to get it out yet (already tried rubber band trick and a few others) and am on the verge of giving up. The #00 screwdriver that comes with the set did not do a very good job of catching.

joseparra947, · Reply

Were you ever able to get it out? Mine seemed stripped from the get go, rendering my attempt to troubleshoot my blank screen fruitless. Rubber band, glue, flat-head all did not work for me. Buying a soldering iron tomorrow to try that.

randypalmerjr,

I did the repair without disconnecting the screen. I skipped down to step 13 and carefully held the screen while removing the battery. Adds a small element difficulty, but helps prevent all the issues others are having when reconnecting the screen.

CHRISMIYAMOTO, · Reply

The non-magnetized screw was very difficult to install. This is how I ultimately succeeded:

Install the two magnetized screws first. They are easy because the magnetized screws will stick to then end of the screwdriver. They will hold the cable bracket in place.

Place the third, non-magnetized, screw on the center of the cable bracket. Take a toothpick and nudge the screw toward the screw hole. The threaded part of the screw (the shaft) has enough weight that it will fall into the hole, and the head of the screw will be pointed upward. You will then be able to use the screwdriver.

alsmith1928, · Reply

One of the screw is completely stuck and I cannot remove it! What can I do?

stefanoclearmounth, · Reply

My iPhone 5 (1428) model don't has this bracket and replacing the earpiece don't fix my problem (don't hear anyone).

plyhell, · Reply

Great Guide, Any idea what else could be wrong if Ive replaced the screen with a working 1 and the phone still has no display?

Thanks for any insight in advance.

Raistlin, · Reply

When you reverse step 7, make sure you clip the little hooks of the bracket under and then lower towards the outside of the phone. If you don't, the phone won't snap back together properly.

Dirk, · Reply

I've misplaced this metal plate AND the three screws and two pentalobe screws. I think my wife threw out the ziplock I had them in. Any chance you can tell me where to get them? thx

Don, · Reply

Don't forget to clip this in flush, my phone couldn't get a cell signal when it was slightly out-of-place.

julian, · Reply

Remember to put this plate back such that it's sitting evenly. The side towards the battery some times tends to stick up a bit, this in turn will put pressure on the backplate of the screen. After putting everything back together, you see a small yellow smear just to the left of the battery % indicator, you have not put that plate on correctly. Open up the phone, remove that retention plate and put it back such that it sits properly!

AGS, · Reply

The part itfixit sent only has two cables: the digitizer and LCD are combined into a single cable. (And the guide is great! Thanks!)

baileyswanson, · Reply

After replacing the screen I was presented with a no image screen (but backlight was ok), so I refited the shartered one, same issue, no image, but backlight. thinking I might damage the pcb, I just did a power cycle (disconnecting the battery) and now it's fine.

so... always powercycle :)

poseido, · Reply

Be very careful here, at this point the phone power is live! a slip of the connectors or a loose screw could let the magic smoke out of the chips (chips won't work without their magic smoke, you know :-)

I'd disconnect the battery before messing with the connectors.

andrewcilia, · Reply

This is a troublesome step, since the LCD connector is particularly difficult to reconnect, and know that you've gotten it on. And thanks to the note claiming that if it's disconnected, if you might just get a black screen, you're left with having to disassemble the entire unit again, without knowing if it's powered off (since you presumably tried to power on). That's also nerve-wracking. I had this problem and disassembled and reassembled the entire phone, only to have the problem again. On the second try, I plugged the phone into power, and after a little bit, got the dead battery screen showing. So the problem was that the battery was discharged, not that I'd biffed the LCD connector.

Adam Engst, · Reply

The hint to disconnect the battery was very useful for my successful repair. After rebooting the phone everything was working just fine. Thanks!

benjaminjrichter, · Reply

BE CAREFUL HERE.

Take a good look at that camera loosely sitting there. It is possible that it will be slightly offset when shutting the assembly back into place. This causes it to not properly focus on closeups. If you don't move it around you will probably be okay.

Also, look at the display assembly, it has three small locking tabs that can bend easily if not pushed in at the right angle into the iPhone frame. Be careful not to be too forceful. Good luck.

info, · Reply

I am having issues removing the white lines on my screen. I made sure to connect the digitiizer connector was seated all the way and I also power cycled my phone several times. Anyone else having this issue?

eric51redding, · Reply

When I was reassembling this the front facing camera cable was a bit longer than the previous one. I had to kink the ribbon cable a bit to get the connection to line up. Everything seems to be working but I wanted to note that the part might be slightly off spec.

Aaron Martina, · Reply

I just replaced mine on 10/6/13. WARNING: the black plastic spacer for the upper screw could come loose when taking the bracket off. Be very careful.

cappich, · Reply

Can anybody measure the spacer height for me? I have the phone where it is missing. I have even been to service place to ask for it, and they claim there is absolutely no other small part under earpiece speaker. I guess I'll have to make some replacement from hard plastic. I can't seem to find it in any online store.

Adam,

There is a tiny black plastic spacer under the top screw, be sure not to lose this. It is easier to reinstall it after all of the parts have been transferred to the new screen including the front facing camera assembly. The spacer has a small cutout in it, which is positioned to the left side. Put this spacer in as the last step before reinstalling the metal speaker bracket, otherwise you risk losing it moving the screen around reattaching all the parts to the new screen.

crevz, · Reply

Hello, Do you have a photo of this as I'm still unsure to where it goes.

Thank You

Jordan Baker,

One additional note to the above comment, the gap in the little spacer goes on the left, but the flat side of the spacer goes on top. Took me a few minutes to figure out that orientation.

vhfreak, · Reply

what happens if i lost the small plastic spacer? and where can i buy it? ty

HandyGarage, · Reply

There a small square black plastic "gasket" next to the 2 copper contact points. Be sure it is back in place before putting back the screws holding the earpiece speaker in place.

Rany, · Reply

It is a site of iPhone 5 Earpiece Speaker Replacement .I have visit the site Its photos are very nice and relevant like a site <a href="http://www.reasonablegifts.com/">Iphone 5 cases</a>

Lee Ratliff, · Reply

Took about 2 hrs to finish. First I left the red film on after placing the LCD plate. I unscrewed and took the film off. The tough part was placing the front camera and earpiece speaker. It took me sometime to understand that one of the cables fold to sit in its position. Tested the camera and phone call. All seems to be working fine.

sathyajsn, · Reply

Sensor cable breaks very easily, take it off with extreme caution or you will break it like I did. Easy to fix though, and only $8 on ebay

Bill Snow, · Reply

Pay VERY close attention here during teardown. Reassembling these components is one of the trickier steps.

NatCk, · Reply

The replacement display assembly that I ordered did not include the circular plastic piece that holds the front facing camera in place. I used tweezers to remove it from my old screen. There is a similar piece of plastic (square) holding a separate piece of the microphone assembly in there too. Also, there is a very tiny opaque white sheet of plastic covering the proximity sensor in the original iphone display that I used tweezers to remove as well. That tiny black plastic spacer threw me for a loop when I found it on the table. I couldn't find a good picture of exactly how that is supposed to fit in there...I think I put it back in the right spot...

Ryan Griswold, · Reply

The display that I received from iFixit Store didn't include them either. I swapped them to the new display by heating up the glue using a haidryer. Next step, I pulled the circular facetime camera plastic piece out with a tweezer. And the metal sensor square bracked was removed by cutting lose the glue with a razor blade. Re-apply glue on the new display!

Spacewide,

The front-facing camera and rear microphone assembly I received didn't include some of the foam protectors that are on the original assembly. I was unable to remove those pieces from the original assembly so completed the install w/o the foam pieces. The phone works ok but I would rather have been able to apply the foam pieces. I suspect the foam is there to keep everything in place and maybe help keep the connector from popping off.

jharrison, · Reply

Does anybody know what that little white piece of tape is that covers the proximity sensor? Is it some type of filter? I know the proximity sensor won't work if you do not have that, but I can not find any source on what it is or where you can purchase a replacement at in case the original screen doesn't have it already. Perhaps there is something you can put in there as an alternative?

Rob, · Reply

According to the Apple inc. technical drawing of the Iphone 5, it is the Ambient Light Sensor, not the proximity sensor.

I have problem to make my light sensor back to work after replacing the screen, even I have transferred the white little filter from the old one.

Hicks,

The tiny spacer of brown plasti sits on top of the thread of the screw right above front camera where the metal cover attach. It took me a while to discover that cause at first i thought it was a frame of one of the sensor on the ribbon cable. It only stays on place in one position, so try rotate it if you find it hard to put spacer, ribbon, metal cover and screw.

Sara bulho, · Reply

I am stuck putting the camera back in. it does not seem like there is anything keeping it in, nothing 'snaps' back in except the one little 'knob' on the ribbon . The proximity sensor, the camera, the little plastic piece that supposedly holds in the camera all seem to be loose. I had to walk away, I felt like all the pushing and moving around was damaging it. any suggestions would be helpful. thanks

Tea Drew, · Reply

I had the same exact problem, although i noticed in the old digitizer i took off it had a plastic housing for the camera, so i put a tiny bit of glue on that and stuck it in. Although im still stick with the proximity sensor and where and how the black square pieces go on. And also how are we supposed to attach the flex cables when we took off the adhesive with the disassembly!?

mkocher10,

When you are putting the camera assembly back together bear in mind the order in which the cables re-attach to the main board. I had to redo a couple of steps as the ribbons were in the wrong order in a stack.

Daniel Hatton, · Reply

When removing the sensor/front assembly, there will be a small, black, plastic spacer which you'll easily lose. When assembling, the spacer should be between the front facing camera and the 2 contacts. Make sure the flat side is on top (i.e. facing to the back of the phone when assembled), and the opening is towards the phone bottom and towards the opposite side of the volume buttons.

Furthermore, my replacement screen did not come with:

1. The translucent, circular protector for the front cam

2. The square metal bracket for the sensor

3. The small white plastic sheet in front of the other sensor.

I manually transferred those parts to my new display assembly using a hairdryer (to loosen up the glue), tweezers and some ordinary glue (the ones they have in kindergarten, not the permanent glue)

Christiaan, · Reply

how did the ordinary glue work?

daddy2caius,

It is too sad - I have tried it three times now! I cannot get the proximity sensor to work. I have salvaged both the white sheet and the metal frame from the original display, as they were not included in my replacement. Still no luck! I have found a thread about the iPhone 4 display replacement, where someone suggests to use a black pen or black tape to somehow darken the screen (as far as I understood it). Is there something similar or other useful tips for the 5?

McP, · Reply

I don't know if this helps but you will notice on the transparent plastic camera protector there are two notches specifically spaced on the deeper side of it. This allow it to slot (albeit unsecuredly) onto the camera itself.

The other part that threw me was the noise cancellation tube thing for the mic (or the mic itself) fits into a rubber hole quite uncooperatively.

Dai, · Reply

I have been led to believe that there is a "cover "or "gasket "which goes over the proximity sensor. I have spent several hours on line trying to source this gasket but I have found no source for it. My research indicates that the proximity sensor will not function properly without this gasket. My own iPhone 5 is missing this gasket and the proximity sensor has very little range. I am desperately looking for a source for this part.

Tom Brandolini, · Reply

Right hand screw, boy what a pain. I felt that I would have to abandon the entire project after reaching so close to the end because I will end up stripping the screw. Finally I had to wiggle (gently) home button bracket back and forth after removing the left side screw to loosen the right hand screw a bit.

remaneeraj, · Reply

This picture shows where the small, black, plastic spacer should go:

https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

Carl, · Reply

Home Button Ribbon Cable is very difficult to remove and easily to tear off.

Be careful when you try to remove it

Mash Love, · Reply

It might just be bad luck, but the left screw on the home button backing would not budge and I ended up stripping it. I just had to order a new home button & bracket, fortunately. I also experienced the inverse, where the screw wells of the new screen on another phone did not hold the screws down. I wouldn't encourage you to try this at home, but a little super glue can go a long way!

Derek Carper, · Reply

Use 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (or as high % as you can get) to act as a lubricant for that stuck screw holding the left side of the home button. Like above poster said, I had the same problem with that screw. The alcohol works wonders! (I work in a clean room where lubricant is not allowed, so Isopropyl Alcohol is commonly used for this purpose)

stretchymantis, · Reply

I heated a small hand towel in boiling water and double sealed it in a plastic bag container, I put it over the spot for 3 minutes and it peeled right off.

dudeomfgstfux,

the screws seemed to only fit one side or the other. Then, the left screw didn't ever want to tighten all the way down.

briancoski, · Reply

I had some problems here with the screws, as the phillips screwdriver from the set was too big... luckily I found a fitting one in my toolbox. The cable takes patience.

Robin BS, · Reply

Home button cable is stubborn. Really nice to apply pressure in the right place as per guide. Start between the two copper parts. Working left to right will break it.

Daniel Hatton, · Reply

I agree with others that this step is hardest. I did this step in the end, i.e. after completing steps 20-24. This gives a better visibility and more room. I had to insert a small flat jewelers screw driver (very carefully and gently) underneath to complete step 19. I wish the plastic tool supplies to me was narrower at one end.

remaneeraj, · Reply

Used the hot washcloth in a plastic bag method. worked great.

daddy2caius, · Reply

Hit it and the home button with a little heat, it eases in removing the button and ribbon that have a little bit of adhesive.

crevz, · Reply

I used a hairdryer to losen up the glue under the contacts.

Spacewide, · Reply

Soak it in 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (or as high of a % you can get). It will help loosen the adhesive quite nicely. :)

stretchymantis, · Reply

I was having issues with the new home button ribbon cable working consistently after the repair. Calibrated the new part by going into a stock Apple app and holding the power button until the "off" prompt appeared. From there I held the home button until it exited the "off" prompt which re-calibrated the home button. After that everything was good to go! =)

ilau1337, · Reply

I found removing the Home button the most difficult step because the ribbon cable with the two contact dots is so thin that the plastic tool cannot grab it. I pushed it slightly until I see the dots moving. I kept pushing slightly and moving it back and forth until it finally came loose. All of the screws are very small, so use a tweezer to hold them uprighted to insert into their holes, and the rest is easy!

rayramirez, · Reply

Watch out while removing the home button cable. It breaks really easily! In my case I ended up with a fold in the home button cable, but luckily it still worked.

You really shouldn't complete this step without using a hairdryer or something else to heat up the glue!

Christiaan, · Reply

Using a heat gun definitely helps soften the adhesive for pulling off the contacts. When putting it back on, I heated it as well to that it would re-stick better. Used heat gun at 250F for a few seconds only. ALSO when putting back the home button, at first when i tightened the screws on the plate too much the button wouldn't click. I had to loosen the screws and kept testing to see what the right torque is to ensure it would click. I used loctite to make sure these not fully tight screws wouldn't come back out.

Kent Leung, · Reply

This was super tight to get the two golden contact things off. Took me aprox 20 mins. Have to be patient with this one. The instructions are golden.

drummerMarkku, · Reply

I had a bit of a tough time remove the sticky gasket that sits around the home button. I almost tore it during removal.

baileyswanson, · Reply

It was pretty harder at the beginning to remove the home button as baileyswanson mentioned here. But you can loosen up the glue with an Ifixit Heat Gun or a hairdryer.

Spacewide, · Reply

I used this to remove a "big" dent from the top right corner of my iPhone, thank you so much! :)

Francesco, · Reply

I am looking for the glue that is used for fixing the LCD and touch panel, Can anyone suggest me which is that and how to apply?

Tobin,

Soak it in 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (or as high of a % you can get). It will help loosen the adhesive quite nicely. :)

stretchymantis, · Reply

When reinstalling the home button, be careful you don't offset too much of the adhesive. This can result in a steeper edge when pressing the home button once everything is finished. Make sure that the adhesive closest in distance to the home button is as far from the opening as possible.

earthhasassri, · Reply

When putting the home button back please turn over the display and make sure you have it straight. It wasn't until I finished the repair that I discovered mine is angled a bit wrong. I don't care - but you might!

Daniel Hatton, · Reply

Any one else have a hard time removing these screws????

Erin Ray, · Reply

These were tighter then the rest of them.

dudeomfgstfux,

Having trouble getting these out any advice?

whitingkye, · Reply

The gold retaining nut into which the 2.6mm screw screws can fall out. Be mindful.

Dave Varon, · Reply

After a replace the old screen with the new screen somehow when I put everything back together including the screws at the very bottom to tighten it up the screen popps up a little bit ???? Like it doesn't want to go in please help

Daisy Medina, · Reply

Is this a screen from us?

Scott Dingle,

Yes when I baught it, it said us LCD

Daisy Medina,

The screen that I got had a purple film on the back. Must remove so that the back looks like exactly the same color as the one original one.

Kent Leung, · Reply

HELP :) my old screen and new screen look identical taken apart except that the old one has a clear ring wear the front camera sits and the new one does not. Is there a way to move this part?

Kristen, · Reply

Use the small suction cup to remove and place the LCD

dudeomfgstfux, · Reply

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