Introduction

Does your battery no longer hold a charge? Follow the steps in this guide to replace a faulty or aging battery in an iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi.

We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener. Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
  • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - Reply

I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

Fredrik -

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - Reply

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - Reply

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - Reply

Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

Fletcher Carpenter - Reply

I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

putinaspiliponis - Reply

I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

Laurie Higgins - Reply

Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

Yousef Ghalib - Reply

Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
  • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

  • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

  • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

  • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

  • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - Reply

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - Reply

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - Reply

I don't own a microwave.

mdanihy - Reply

Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

Jon - Reply

I don't have a microwave???

Joe Blow - Reply

30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

Sam Stieg - Reply

can i use just ordinary microwave???

juneseok kwon - Reply

If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

Mohideen Rifay - Reply

I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

Travis Dixon - Reply

There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

assortedrubbish - Reply

Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
  • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

  • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

Me berg - Reply

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

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The following steps involve using an iOpener to soften the adhesive holding the front panel assembly in place. When using the iOpener, be sure to heat it in the microwave for no more than 30 seconds.
  • The following steps involve using an iOpener to soften the adhesive holding the front panel assembly in place. When using the iOpener, be sure to heat it in the microwave for no more than 30 seconds.

  • Handling it by the tabs on either end, place a heated iOpener over the top edge of the iPad.

  • Let the iOpener sit on the iPad for two minutes to soften the adhesive securing the front panel to the rest of the iPad.

Yeah, this part took longer than written. Over 30 minutes and had to reheat the iOpenner since it got cool enough to only feel warm.

Christopher Lowder - Reply

While the iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under certain portions of the front glass. To avoid damage, only heat and pry in the areas described in each step. As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas: Home Button
  • While the iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under certain portions of the front glass. To avoid damage, only heat and pry in the areas described in each step.

  • As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas:

    • Home Button

    • Front Facing Camera

    • Main Camera

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Place a suction cup over the iPad's front-facing camera and press down to create a seal. To get the most leverage, place the suction cup as close to the edge as possible without going past the edge of the display.
  • Place a suction cup over the iPad's front-facing camera and press down to create a seal.

    • To get the most leverage, place the suction cup as close to the edge as possible without going past the edge of the display.

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Firmly pull up on the suction cup to to create a small gap between the front panel and the rear case. Do not pull too hard or you may shatter the glass. Once you've opened a sufficient gap, insert an opening pick into the gap to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
  • Firmly pull up on the suction cup to to create a small gap between the front panel and the rear case.

    • Do not pull too hard or you may shatter the glass.

  • Once you've opened a sufficient gap, insert an opening pick into the gap to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

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Slide the pick along the edge of the display, towards the headphone jack. If there is still a considerable amount of resistance when sliding the opening pick, repeat the iOpener heating procedure and apply additional heat. Be careful not to let the opening pick slide between the fused LCD and front panel, as doing so can permanently damage the display.
  • Slide the pick along the edge of the display, towards the headphone jack.

    • If there is still a considerable amount of resistance when sliding the opening pick, repeat the iOpener heating procedure and apply additional heat.

  • Be careful not to let the opening pick slide between the fused LCD and front panel, as doing so can permanently damage the display.

    • A good rule of thumb is to never insert the opening pick more than a quarter inch into the iPad.

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Insert a second opening pick by the front-facing camera. Insert a second opening pick by the front-facing camera.
  • Insert a second opening pick by the front-facing camera.

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Slide the second pick along the top edge of the iPad, towards the Sleep/Wake Button. Slide the second pick along the top edge of the iPad, towards the Sleep/Wake Button. Slide the second pick along the top edge of the iPad, towards the Sleep/Wake Button.
  • Slide the second pick along the top edge of the iPad, towards the Sleep/Wake Button.

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Insert a third pick by the front-facing camera. Insert a third pick by the front-facing camera.
  • Insert a third pick by the front-facing camera.

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Bring the right opening pick down and around the top right corner of the iPad. Bring the right opening pick down and around the top right corner of the iPad. Bring the right opening pick down and around the top right corner of the iPad.
  • Bring the right opening pick down and around the top right corner of the iPad.

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Bring the left opening pick around the top left corner of the tablet. Bring the left opening pick around the top left corner of the tablet. Bring the left opening pick around the top left corner of the tablet.
  • Bring the left opening pick around the top left corner of the tablet.

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Reheat the iOpener and lay it over the right edge of the display to loosen the adhesive underneath.
  • Reheat the iOpener and lay it over the right edge of the display to loosen the adhesive underneath.

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Slide the right opening pick roughly halfway down the display. Slide the right opening pick roughly halfway down the display. Slide the right opening pick roughly halfway down the display.
  • Slide the right opening pick roughly halfway down the display.

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Reheat the iOpener and apply heat to the left side of the iPad.
  • Reheat the iOpener and apply heat to the left side of the iPad.

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Slide the left-hand opening pick about halfway down the edge of the display. Slide the left-hand opening pick about halfway down the edge of the display. Slide the left-hand opening pick about halfway down the edge of the display.
  • Slide the left-hand opening pick about halfway down the edge of the display.

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Slide the opposite opening pick down to the bottom right corner of the iPad. If necessary, reheat the adhesive on the right edge to loosen the display assembly. If necessary, reheat the adhesive on the right edge to loosen the display assembly.
  • Slide the opposite opening pick down to the bottom right corner of the iPad.

  • If necessary, reheat the adhesive on the right edge to loosen the display assembly.

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Slide the left-hand opening pick down the edge of the display until you reach the corner. Slide the left-hand opening pick down the edge of the display until you reach the corner. Slide the left-hand opening pick down the edge of the display until you reach the corner.
  • Slide the left-hand opening pick down the edge of the display until you reach the corner.

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Use the iOpener to apply heat to the bottom edge of the iPad.
  • Use the iOpener to apply heat to the bottom edge of the iPad.

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Bring the right-hand opening pick around the bottom corner of the iPad. Bring the right-hand opening pick around the bottom corner of the iPad. Bring the right-hand opening pick around the bottom corner of the iPad.
  • Bring the right-hand opening pick around the bottom corner of the iPad.

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Repeat for the left-hand pick. Reheat and reapply the iOpener as needed. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener. Reheat and reapply the iOpener as needed. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.
  • Repeat for the left-hand pick.

  • Reheat and reapply the iOpener as needed. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

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Remove the right-hand opening pick at the bottom of the iPad. Remove the right-hand opening pick at the bottom of the iPad.
  • Remove the right-hand opening pick at the bottom of the iPad.

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Slide the left-hand opening pick along the bottom edge of the display, then remove it from the bottom right corner of the iPad. Be very careful to not insert the pick more than a quarter inch into the display to avoid damaging the Home Button and display cables underneath. Be very careful to not insert the pick more than a quarter inch into the display to avoid damaging the Home Button and display cables underneath.
  • Slide the left-hand opening pick along the bottom edge of the display, then remove it from the bottom right corner of the iPad.

  • Be very careful to not insert the pick more than a quarter inch into the display to avoid damaging the Home Button and display cables underneath.

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Twist the remaining pick by the front-facing camera to separate the top edge of the display assembly from the rear case. Twist the remaining pick by the front-facing camera to separate the top edge of the display assembly from the rear case. Twist the remaining pick by the front-facing camera to separate the top edge of the display assembly from the rear case.
  • Twist the remaining pick by the front-facing camera to separate the top edge of the display assembly from the rear case.

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Continue lifting the display assembly from the front-facing camera side. Pull the display slightly away from the bottom edge to completely separate it from the rear case. Keep lifting until the display assembly is roughly perpendicular to the body of the iPad.
  • Continue lifting the display assembly from the front-facing camera side.

  • Pull the display slightly away from the bottom edge to completely separate it from the rear case.

  • Keep lifting until the display assembly is roughly perpendicular to the body of the iPad.

    • Do not attempt to remove the display yet—it is still attached to the rear case by three delicate ribbon cables.

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Remove the single 1.8 mm Phillips screw securing the battery terminals to their contacts on the logic board.
  • Remove the single 1.8 mm Phillips screw securing the battery terminals to their contacts on the logic board.

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To reduce the risk of a short, you can use a battery isolation pick to disconnect the battery. Slide a battery isolation pick underneath the battery connector area of the logic board, and leave it in place while you work.
  • To reduce the risk of a short, you can use a battery isolation pick to disconnect the battery.

    • Slide a battery isolation pick underneath the battery connector area of the logic board, and leave it in place while you work.

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Remove the three 1.3mm Phillips screws from the display cable bracket. Remove the bracket. Remove the bracket.
  • Remove the three 1.3mm Phillips screws from the display cable bracket.

  • Remove the bracket.

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Disconnect the display data connector from its socket on the logic board. Disconnect the display data connector from its socket on the logic board.
  • Disconnect the display data connector from its socket on the logic board.

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Disconnect the two remaining digitizer cables underneath the display data cable. Disconnect the two remaining digitizer cables underneath the display data cable. Disconnect the two remaining digitizer cables underneath the display data cable.
  • Disconnect the two remaining digitizer cables underneath the display data cable.

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Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.
  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

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Remove the following four Phillips screws securing the upper component cable bracket to the tablet. Two 1.6 mm Two 1.3 mm
  • Remove the following four Phillips screws securing the upper component cable bracket to the tablet.

    • Two 1.6 mm

    • Two 1.3 mm

  • Slide the upper component cable bracket out from under the protective flaps and remove it from the iPad.

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Remove the tape covering the two speaker ZIF connectors. Remove the tape covering the two speaker ZIF connectors. Remove the tape covering the two speaker ZIF connectors.
  • Remove the tape covering the two speaker ZIF connectors.

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Use a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left speaker's ZIF connector. Use a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left speaker's ZIF connector.
  • Use a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left speaker's ZIF connector.

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Slide the left speaker cable out of its ZIF connector. Slide the left speaker cable out of its ZIF connector.
  • Slide the left speaker cable out of its ZIF connector.

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Use a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right speaker's ZIF connector. Use a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right speaker's ZIF connector.
  • Use a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right speaker's ZIF connector.

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Slide the right speaker cable out of its ZIF connector. Slide the right speaker cable out of its ZIF connector.
  • Slide the right speaker cable out of its ZIF connector.

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Use a spudger to gently pry up the antenna cables from their sockets. Use a spudger to gently pry up the antenna cables from their sockets. Use a spudger to gently pry up the antenna cables from their sockets.
  • Use a spudger to gently pry up the antenna cables from their sockets.

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Firmly grasp the antenna cable and peel up the grounding tape attaching it to the logic board. Upon reassembly, it is important to reattach the antenna cable to the logic board with grounding tape properly adhered on the copper tape. Upon reassembly, it is important to reattach the antenna cable to the logic board with grounding tape properly adhered on the copper tape.
  • Firmly grasp the antenna cable and peel up the grounding tape attaching it to the logic board.

  • Upon reassembly, it is important to reattach the antenna cable to the logic board with grounding tape properly adhered on the copper tape.

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Remove the 1.2 mm Phillips screw securing the bracket covering the volume control cable connector. Remove the bracket.
  • Remove the 1.2 mm Phillips screw securing the bracket covering the volume control cable connector.

  • Remove the bracket.

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Detach the volume button cable connector by prying it straight up from its socket. Detach the volume button cable connector by prying it straight up from its socket.
  • Detach the volume button cable connector by prying it straight up from its socket.

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Pry up the rear facing camera cable connector from its socket. Pry up the rear facing camera cable connector from its socket.
  • Pry up the rear facing camera cable connector from its socket.

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Pry up the home button/microphone ribbon cable connector from its socket. Pry up the home button/microphone ribbon cable connector from its socket.
  • Pry up the home button/microphone ribbon cable connector from its socket.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Facetime camera connector from its socket on the logic board. Pry up the adhesive attaching the Facetime camera cable to the audio jack cable underneath. Fold the Facetime camera cable up and out of the way.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Facetime camera connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • Pry up the adhesive attaching the Facetime camera cable to the audio jack cable underneath.

  • Fold the Facetime camera cable up and out of the way.

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Disconnect the headphone jack cable connector from its socket on the logic board. Pry the cable up to  free it from the adhesive securing it  to the rear case. Pull the audio jack cable out of the way of the logic board below.
  • Disconnect the headphone jack cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • Pry the cable up to free it from the adhesive securing it to the rear case.

  • Pull the audio jack cable out of the way of the logic board below.

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Use tweezers to peel up the rightmost grounding tape attaching the antennas to the logic board. Bend the antenna wire back and out of the way of the logic board. Bend the antenna wire back and out of the way of the logic board.
  • Use tweezers to peel up the rightmost grounding tape attaching the antennas to the logic board.

  • Bend the antenna wire back and out of the way of the logic board.

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Peel up the tape covering the top left edge of the logic board. Peel up the tape covering the top left edge of the logic board.
  • Peel up the tape covering the top left edge of the logic board.

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Remove the four 1.6 mm Phillips screws attaching the lightning port to the rear case.
  • Remove the four 1.6 mm Phillips screws attaching the lightning port to the rear case.

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The Lightning connector cable is stuck to the case with some adhesive. To detach the adhesive you will be sliding an opening pick between the cable and the case. Be very careful not to cut the Lightning connector cable itself. Insert an opening pick underneath the Lightning cable where it meets the logic board.
  • The Lightning connector cable is stuck to the case with some adhesive. To detach the adhesive you will be sliding an opening pick between the cable and the case. Be very careful not to cut the Lightning connector cable itself.

  • Insert an opening pick underneath the Lightning cable where it meets the logic board.

  • Slide the opening pick towards the bend in the cable.

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Pull the Lightning connector straight out of its recess in the rear case. Pull the Lightning connector straight out of its recess in the rear case.
  • Pull the Lightning connector straight out of its recess in the rear case.

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Prepare an iOpener following the steps in the iOpener Heating Guide.
  • Prepare an iOpener following the steps in the iOpener Heating Guide.

  • Place the iOpener along the top of the back of the iPad for 2-3 minutes to soften the adhesive holding the logic board in place.

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Insert an opening tool underneath the logic board below the FaceTime camera. Pry the left edge of the logic board up.
  • Insert an opening tool underneath the logic board below the FaceTime camera.

  • Pry the left edge of the logic board up.

  • Lift the end of the logic board slowly. If you encounter significant resistance, stop prying and reapply the iOpener.

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Insert an opening pick underneath the portion of the logic board pried up in the previous step. Slide the opening pick towards the volume control buttons, and stop at the bend in the logic board.
  • Insert an opening pick underneath the portion of the logic board pried up in the previous step.

  • Slide the opening pick towards the volume control buttons, and stop at the bend in the logic board.

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Place a heated iOpener on the lefthand side of the back of the iPad for 2-3 minutes.
  • Place a heated iOpener on the lefthand side of the back of the iPad for 2-3 minutes.

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Insert a plastic opening tool underneath the logic board, inside the rectangular cut out, and gently pry the logic board up. Slide the opening tool down the length of the gap while continuing to pry the logic board up. Lift the logic board slowly. If you encounter significant resistance, stop prying and reapply the iOpener.
  • Insert a plastic opening tool underneath the logic board, inside the rectangular cut out, and gently pry the logic board up.

  • Slide the opening tool down the length of the gap while continuing to pry the logic board up.

  • Lift the logic board slowly. If you encounter significant resistance, stop prying and reapply the iOpener.

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Insert an opening tool underneath the logic board on the other side of the rectangular cut out and pry it up. Slide the opening tool down the length of the gap while continuing to pry the logic board up. Lift the the logic board slowly. If you encounter significant resistance, stop prying and reapply the iOpener.
  • Insert an opening tool underneath the logic board on the other side of the rectangular cut out and pry it up.

  • Slide the opening tool down the length of the gap while continuing to pry the logic board up.

  • Lift the the logic board slowly. If you encounter significant resistance, stop prying and reapply the iOpener.

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Insert a plastic card underneath the logic board. Slide the card down the length of the logic board to release the adhesive. Slide the card down the length of the logic board to release the adhesive.
  • Insert a plastic card underneath the logic board.

  • Slide the card down the length of the logic board to release the adhesive.

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Slide a plastic card underneath the center of the logic board, pushing it in as far as it will go. Slowly swing the left edge of the logic board up, while making sure it doesn't snag against any of the disconnected cables.
  • Slide a plastic card underneath the center of the logic board, pushing it in as far as it will go.

  • Slowly swing the left edge of the logic board up, while making sure it doesn't snag against any of the disconnected cables.

  • If any portion of the logic board requires excessive force to pry up, stop prying, re-apply the iOpener, and re-perform the corresponding guide steps to fully release the adhesive.

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Remove the logic board. Remove the logic board. Remove the logic board.
  • Remove the logic board.

When reassembling be very careful not to have the ZIF connectors below the logic board. You can't get them out again without removing the logic board. This mistake happened to me *twice*. Fortunately it was not too difficult to fix. Also during reassembly you have to put the battery disconnector clip back in its place while dropping the logic board on the battery connector. DO NOT push the logic board onto its adhesive near the disconnector clip because it can break the board. Only fasten the board to the adhesive after the disconnector clip has been removed.

thorsten.stocksmeier - Reply

Reheat the iOpener in the microwave for 30 seconds. Remember to be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener, and never microwave it for more than 30 seconds. Place the heated iOpener in the center of the back of the iPad. Keep it there for 90 seconds to soften the battery adhesive.
  • Reheat the iOpener in the microwave for 30 seconds.

    • Remember to be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener, and never microwave it for more than 30 seconds.

  • Place the heated iOpener in the center of the back of the iPad. Keep it there for 90 seconds to soften the battery adhesive.

  • Move the iOpener to the right (away from the rear-facing camera), and keep it there for another 90 seconds.

  • Finally, place the iOpener near the right-hand edge of the iPad for 90 seconds.

  • You will likely need to repeat this step several times throughout the rest of the procedure to ensure the adhesive remains soft.

  • The iOpener may cool significantly. If so, reheat it for another 30 seconds between each position.

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Throughout the following procedure, you'll be sliding thin plastic cards between the battery and rear case of the iPad, to separate the adhesive securing the battery. Be careful to keep the cards as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals. Once the adhesive has had a couple minutes to soften, flip the iPad over, battery-side up.
  • Throughout the following procedure, you'll be sliding thin plastic cards between the battery and rear case of the iPad, to separate the adhesive securing the battery. Be careful to keep the cards as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals.

  • Once the adhesive has had a couple minutes to soften, flip the iPad over, battery-side up.

  • Insert a plastic card underneath the battery contacts.

    • There is a metal standoff under the battery contact. You will need to lift the contact up slightly to clear this standoff and insert the plastic card.

  • Push the card about an inch under the battery to begin breaking up the adhesive holding it in place.

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Slide the plastic card up along the edge of the battery until the card is even with the top edge of the battery. Slide the plastic card up along the edge of the battery until the card is even with the top edge of the battery.
  • Slide the plastic card up along the edge of the battery until the card is even with the top edge of the battery.

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Insert a second plastic card underneath the battery contacts. Rotate the plastic card around the lower right corner of the battery to begin breaking up the adhesive along the lower edge. Carefully maneuver the card over the top of the speaker ribbon cables so as not to damage them.
  • Insert a second plastic card underneath the battery contacts.

  • Rotate the plastic card around the lower right corner of the battery to begin breaking up the adhesive along the lower edge.

    • Carefully maneuver the card over the top of the speaker ribbon cables so as not to damage them.

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Slide the second card along the bottom edge of the battery to continue breaking up the adhesive holding it to the rear case. You may need to reheat the iOpener and lay it across the bottom of the iPad to soften the adhesive securing the bottom edge of the battery.
  • Slide the second card along the bottom edge of the battery to continue breaking up the adhesive holding it to the rear case.

  • You may need to reheat the iOpener and lay it across the bottom of the iPad to soften the adhesive securing the bottom edge of the battery.

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Push the plastic card about two inches underneath the battery, and lift it up to pry the first battery cell off the rear case. If the battery begins to bend, use an iOpener to apply heat to the back of the battery and repeat the previous two steps to adequately break up the battery adhesive. If the battery begins to bend, use an iOpener to apply heat to the back of the battery and repeat the previous two steps to adequately break up the battery adhesive.
  • Push the plastic card about two inches underneath the battery, and lift it up to pry the first battery cell off the rear case.

    • If the battery begins to bend, use an iOpener to apply heat to the back of the battery and repeat the previous two steps to adequately break up the battery adhesive.

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Remove the card from the bottom of the battery and slide it between the battery and rear case,  along the side and underneath the seam where the two battery cells meet. Push the card as far underneath the battery as you can.
  • Remove the card from the bottom of the battery and slide it between the battery and rear case, along the side and underneath the seam where the two battery cells meet.

  • Push the card as far underneath the battery as you can.

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Firmly grasp the first card you inserted underneath the battery and push it as far as you can underneath the battery. You may need to add more heat to soften the adhesive before completing this step.
  • Firmly grasp the first card you inserted underneath the battery and push it as far as you can underneath the battery.

    • You may need to add more heat to soften the adhesive before completing this step.

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Slide a third card underneath the top edge of the battery, on the right side. Carefully maneuver the card past the upper component cables so as not to damage them.
  • Slide a third card underneath the top edge of the battery, on the right side.

    • Carefully maneuver the card past the upper component cables so as not to damage them.

  • Push the card in as far as it will go, breaking through as much of the adhesive underneath the battery as you can.

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Remove the card and slide it under the top edge of the battery again, on the left side near the edge of the iPad. Be extremely careful to slide the card over the front-facing camera and headphone jack cables to avoid cutting them.
  • Remove the card and slide it under the top edge of the battery again, on the left side near the edge of the iPad.

    • Be extremely careful to slide the card over the front-facing camera and headphone jack cables to avoid cutting them.

  • Push the card in as far as it will go, breaking through as much of the adhesive underneath the battery as you can.

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Remove the card and again slide it under the top edge of the battery, near the center. Be extremely careful to slide the card over the front-facing camera and headphone jack cables to avoid cutting them. Slide the card in as far as it will go, breaking through as much of the adhesive as you can.
  • Remove the card and again slide it under the top edge of the battery, near the center.

  • Be extremely careful to slide the card over the front-facing camera and headphone jack cables to avoid cutting them.

  • Slide the card in as far as it will go, breaking through as much of the adhesive as you can.

  • Lift up on the card to pry the second battery cell up from the rear case.

  • If there is significant resistance from the battery when you try to pry it up, reheat the adhesive with an iOpener and repeat the previous 3 steps to break apart the adhesive as necessary.

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Remove the battery.
  • Remove the battery.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

14 other people completed this guide.

Evan Noronha

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4 Comments

Can the iPad air 2 battery be replaced without removing logic board or do all the internal components have to be dismantled before battery can be replaced?

AMT - Reply

The battery contacts are pinned underneath the logic board, so it's difficult to remove with the logic board in place. There's also very little room to work with the logic board installed, so there's an increased risk of damaging something with a wayward swipe of your card or pry tool. But yes, it's possible. You can reference this guide for tips on the procedure (it's for a different model but the same overall strategy will work).

Jeff Suovanen -

I've just completed this fix (among 4-5 others previously). First comment here b/c this was an unusual repair. The biggest surprise about this fix (or anything to do with the internals of an iPad): the size of the screws! I'm surprised it isn't mentioned at the top, along with the PN000 driver: these things are literally the size of a grain of sand! So, taking them out is the easy part. Putting them back in is a trick. The secret: place them on the holes first, in whichever direction, then maneuver them btw fingernail and driver into correct position. You'll need something to anchor the screen in a vertical position to use both hands. Not mentioned in Jeff and AMT's comments: there is a loop in the battery contact. Not removing the logic board means you'll be breaking the loop on the old battery to remove it, and you'll need to snip the loop on the new battery to insert it. It all worked for me. It made the actual fix a fraction of the steps from the written one (just 4 screws removed), but it's risky.

Thomas Linder - Reply

I bought the $20 repair kit to go along with the lithium ion battery. The suction cup and the heating tube did not work even after multiple attempts to use the heating tube. I had to resort to a hair dryer and use a straight razor to pry the edge just enough to slip a pick in there. I did find incredible use for the magnetized screw drivers and spudgers.

I bought the iFixIt lithium ion battery replacement and once reassembling the iPad Air 2 (double checking each connection for fit and order), it still does not turn on. ugh…

Robert Kachinski - Reply

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