Skip to main content

Introduction

Follow this guide to replace the home button on a Samsung Galaxy S6.

This guide involves removing the rear glass. Removing the rear glass destroys the adhesive holding it in place. Follow this guide to reinstall the rear glass.

  1. Insert a paper clip or SIM eject tool into the hole in the SIM card slot on the power button side of the phone. Press to eject the SIM card tray.
    • Insert a paper clip or SIM eject tool into the hole in the SIM card slot on the power button side of the phone.

    • Press to eject the SIM card tray.

    • Don't press too hard or you may damage the SIM card tray.

    It really needs to be stated at the outset that if doing this repair to replace the daughterboard, there is a high likelihood that the display will be destroyed (even if you don’t break the display, the foil backing on it will likely be destroyed rendering it unusable). The PDF version of this guide states this at the beginning, but this online version does not.

    David White - Reply

    Done. Thanks for the tip!

    Minor editor -

  2. Remove the SIM card tray from the phone.
    • Remove the SIM card tray from the phone.

  3. We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener. Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Reply

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Reply

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Reply

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Reply

    Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

    Fletcher Carpenter - Reply

    Video seems to have been removed from YouTube.

    Rex Burrus -

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Reply

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Reply

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - Reply

    Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?

    Regards,

    Cedric

    Cedric VINCENT - Reply

    My microwave just died, can i heat it with boiled water?

    Alex COLOMBANI - Reply

    Taping as shown is impractical when using hair dryer method—tape simply comes off in the heat and gets in way of getting out the shards on the sides. If the thing wasn’t shattered, then taping unnecessary.

    B. A. Computer Services - Reply

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Reply

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Reply

    The “Galaxy S8 Replacement Battery” that you are selling with the kit is the wrong battery, the one that you are selling is a 3000mAh (which is the wrong amperage) as the OEM Samsung Galaxy S8 battery is “Model #: EB-BG892ABA / 4000mAh / Normal Voltage: 3.85V / Charge Voltage: 4.4V / A/S: 1588-3366 4000mAh 15.0Wh

    stevengenat - Reply

  4. Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - Reply

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Reply

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Reply

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - Reply

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - Reply

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - Reply

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - Reply

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - Reply

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - Reply

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Reply

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Reply

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Reply

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Reply

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Reply

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Reply

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Reply

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Reply

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Reply

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Reply

  5. Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - Reply

    Can you use an oven instead?

    Rafael -

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - Reply

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Reply

  6. Opening your phone will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement adhesive ready before you proceed, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your phone without replacing the adhesive. If your glass is shattered, put packing tape over the entire panel to hold it together during the removal process.
    • Opening your phone will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement adhesive ready before you proceed, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your phone without replacing the adhesive.

    • If your glass is shattered, put packing tape over the entire panel to hold it together during the removal process.

    • Lay the heated iOpener over the rear panel for about two minutes to loosen the adhesive around the edge of the glass.

    • You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the phone warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

    • Shift the iOpener to heat the remaining section of the panel for another two minutes.

    • A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the OLED display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

    are there any option out there that allows you to heat the adhesive outdoors without any power plug?

    Brotan Store - Reply

    There's a star in the center of our solar system, you could try that.

    John Joiner -

    the way we do it at Get it fixed cellphone repair calgary is with a heat gun, wich is way easier than this, make sure to wear some gloves and dont worry to use to much heat as long as you point just to the back of the phone, (the back panel is thick enough to protect the logic board from over heat) instead of the usual blue plastic piece i sugest to use the thinnest metal razor knife and a business card so you can insert the business card and move it all around the frame, those blue plastic things are way too thick that will break the glass panel if you apply to much pressure

    get it fixed - Reply

    After did that with my own heat pad, the white paint got ripped off but luckily glass back cover did not break. So I scratched all white part of the back cover and now its all transparent.

    Jae Chung - Reply

    I used a purpose built heating device at 100 degree celsius. Lower temperatures didn't work.

    ken - Reply

    I used a blow dryer, attached my multimeter heat sensor to the back to monitor the temperature. At 54 degrees Celsius I could separate the back with a suction cup from my phone without damaging the paint.

    LRD - Reply

    I gave up on the hot bag after 4 heat and apply cycles. I was only getting the back up to 60c using an infrared thermometer. I switched to a harbor freight 1500w heat gun set to Low, moving constantly around the back, until the back read 95c. The back came off easily at that point.

    Nathan Wray - Reply

    using a blowtorch on low heart for 3-5 seconds at close range also works

    Achi Namaratne - Reply

    I found another site that said temps of 203F/95C were required to soften the glues. Once I started using those temps with my heat gun, as well as a tool I made by just cutting the flat front/back panel from a package of screws (any plastic package that has a flat panel will work) , I had the back off in no time. Had I continued to use the plastic pick shown in the instructions, I really doubt I would have gotten the back off since I couldn’t get enough force on the back from my suction cup. The thin package plastic acted almost like a knife as I moved it around the outside edge. WARNING: If you have to reheat the back, REMOVE THE PACKAGE PLASTIC!! It will start to melt from the heat of a heat gun. Good Luck!!

    morttormjch - Reply

  7. Once the rear glass is hot to the touch, apply a suction cup near the bottom edge  of the glass. Lift on the suction cup to create a small gap underneath the rear glass, and insert an opening pick into the gap. Optionally, once the pick is inserted, you can add a few drops of isopropyl alcohol into the gap to help weaken the adhesive in the following steps.
    • Once the rear glass is hot to the touch, apply a suction cup near the bottom edge of the glass.

    • Lift on the suction cup to create a small gap underneath the rear glass, and insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • Optionally, once the pick is inserted, you can add a few drops of isopropyl alcohol into the gap to help weaken the adhesive in the following steps.

    If the rear screen is cracked/smashed, you will not be able to use a suction cup to remove it. The suction could would not seal because of the cracks. I tried masking tape, 3M shiny HVAC tape, and others, and the suction could would not seal to those surfaces either.

    I ended up using the sharp point of the smudger to remove some shards of glass to get underneath the cover to leverage it up and out. Definitely use gloves and safety glasses if you have to do this.

    dougpender - Reply

    Thank you for your comment. I needed to see this particular instance of what to do when the back cover was cracked. I was going to try to suction it with tape covering it. This saved me some heartache. You're an angel!!

    Jessie Brooks -

    Be careful during this step- reapply heat before attempting this one (battery issues tend to melt internal “areas” ) and this area is most prone to crack during the lifting of the back plate.

    Briannah - Reply

    J’ai utilisé la même ventouse.

    En soulevant la poignée rabattable, la simple succion a aspiré un disque de verre ! J’ai brisé la vitre sans même tirer…

    pierre brunet - Reply

    I think it is just about impossible to do this without at least removing some paint on the edges. Order a new back before you attempt this. It has the adhesive already on it and costs less than $10 on eBay.

    Thomas Hayes - Reply

    In order to get in more easily, I normally use the iFlex (the metal one) which is thin enough to create a little space, and then i insert a thinner plastic sheet, just like the default screen protector you might find on some huawei or xiaomi phones. That plus half a drop of alcohol should do the trick. Use caution and be very patient.

    Stefano Restuccia - Reply

  8. Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the phone to slice through the adhesive securing the rear glass. Afterward, it may help to leave the pick in place and grab a second pick as you proceed to the next step. Leaving the pick inserted can help prevent the glue you just separated from re-adhering.
    • Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the phone to slice through the adhesive securing the rear glass.

    • Afterward, it may help to leave the pick in place and grab a second pick as you proceed to the next step. Leaving the pick inserted can help prevent the glue you just separated from re-adhering.

    • Re-heat the rear glass as needed to prevent the glue from cooling and hardening.

    Be careful that the bottom of the phone is well heated, and add a drop or so of isopropyl alcohol. When I removed the back glass of my S6, some of the black coating on the glass stayed stuck to the adhesive, so to return my phone to its original appearance, I’ll have to get a new back glass.

    Gary F - Reply

  9. Repeat the heating and cutting procedure for the remaining three sides of the phone. Leave an opening pick under each edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing. Leave an opening pick under each edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
    • Repeat the heating and cutting procedure for the remaining three sides of the phone.

    • Leave an opening pick under each edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

    At this stage I didn’t use a plastic pick as I think they are too thick and will crack a screen that’s not already cracked. I used a stainless steel

    I sesame blade which does a much better job of cutting through the adhesive. Just be careful not to insert it in too far. I sometimes put a mark on my blade to ensure it doesn’t go in too far.

    Wayne Lyell - Reply

    I used a card like the ones people use to play poker or any card game with. Only one was needed to separate the back without any damage to the paint.

    LRD - Reply

    Be sure to apply a decent amount of heat when removing the last bit of the rear glass, cracked the rear of my screen (only a small amount mind) trying too use too much force not enough heat for the last spot.

    spank2103 - Reply

  10. Use an opening pick to slice through any remaining adhesive. Remove the rear glass.
    • Use an opening pick to slice through any remaining adhesive.

    • Remove the rear glass.

    The rear glass is very fragile. I cracked mine across the camera opening while cleaning off the old sealant. Next time ( I will have to order one and do it again…doh) I’ll place it on a flat surface while cleaning it.

    Greg Scott - Reply

    This is also a really good time to remove the SIM tray

    John Murphy - Reply

  11. To install new rear glass: Use tweezers to peel away any remaining adhesive from the phone's chassis.
    • To install new rear glass:

    • Use tweezers to peel away any remaining adhesive from the phone's chassis.

    • Clean the adhesion areas with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (at least 90%) and a lint-free cloth. Swipe in one direction only, not back and forth. This will help prep the surface for the new adhesive.

    • Peel the adhesive backing off of the new rear glass, carefully line up one edge of the glass against the phone chassis, and firmly press the glass onto the phone.

    • If you're reinstalling the old rear glass, or using rear glass without adhesive pre-installed, follow this guide.

    You should note that the adhesive strip may need to be fully removed from the frame in order to proceed with repairs. The adhesive on my phone covered all of the screws exposed in the next step.

    Sean Cruz - Reply

    When I did my battery, the adhesive stayed almost 100% on the back glass and was still in good shape. What didn’t remain attached only lifted slightly and I was able to coax it back to its original location with tweezers. I didn’t bother to remove and replace the adhesive layer because mine was still good. I set the glass out of the way where it wouldn’t get dirt on the adhesive while I finished the battery swap. I added some additional heat (hair dryer) after reattaching the glass to make sure the adhesive made the best seal.

    Wayne Thomason - Reply

  12. Remove the thirteen 3.5mm Phillips #00 screws securing the midframe to the phone.
    • Remove the thirteen 3.5mm Phillips #00 screws securing the midframe to the phone.

    Make sure you do not mix up these thirteen screws with a hidden 14th screw under the mid-frame chassis, on the left side of the headphone port, on daughter-board. This 14th screw is shorter than the other screws, so make sure you do not replace it with one of the longer screws. It will push up against the front glass and lift it away from the adhesive.

    David Whyte - Reply

  13. Firmly grasp the edge of the midframe assembly. Lift up on the midframe assembly while pushing down on the battery to separate the midframe assembly from the rest of the phone. While lifting the midframe, be careful to avoid snagging it on the audio jack or charging port.
    • Firmly grasp the edge of the midframe assembly.

    • Lift up on the midframe assembly while pushing down on the battery to separate the midframe assembly from the rest of the phone.

    • While lifting the midframe, be careful to avoid snagging it on the audio jack or charging port.

    • Once the midframe is partially seperated, carefully run an opening pick around the edges of the rest of the phone to separate the top of the midframe.

    • To avoid damage to the headphone jack, remove the top of the midframe first, then push the midframe downwards to disengage it from the headphone jack.

    • You may need to heat and apply an iOpener to the edges of the display to soften the display adhesive if midframe separation is difficult.

    FIRMLY GRASP IT! - Patrick

    Armen Orbelyan - Reply

    Bei diesem Schritt sicher sein, dass SIM Card Fach entfernt ist!

    zikal - Reply

    I found the glue still very sticky here, i had to go around with my picks to free it, its very stuck with a UK version, beware!!

    databeat1 - Reply

    I damaged my screen here a bit, be careful not too slide your pick between the digitizer and the screen.

    Anton -

    i suggest to apply heat on the corners of the front screen to lose the adhesive a lil bit and push from the bottom back of the phone right where the wireless charger is because of the charging port

    get it fixed - Reply

    When grabbing from the bottom, you fun the risk of damaging the charging port and headphone jack. I would suggest starting from the top. This is because the two ports at the bottom slide down into the frame. There is also adhesive that will give you a little resistance.

    Alex Philip - Reply

    Step 18 is not correct, you have to start from the top. You can damage the charge port

    Daniel Yaben - Reply

    On mine the adhesive actually tore away part of the colored film on the back of the screen glass rather than separating from it. I’m guessing applying heat to the screen corners first would help avoid this (I didn’t). https://imgur.com/a/V7vZQ

    Brian Hardie - Reply

    Don’t stick a pick into the screen side of the frame. You will almost certainly start to separate the digitizer and LCD. Plus there is hardly anything to pry against anyway.

    Thomas Hayes - Reply

  14. Lift the midframe assembly up to separate it from the rest of the phone.
    • Lift the midframe assembly up to separate it from the rest of the phone.

    what do the numbers ZF-N2 AS WELL AS (F13) AT THE END OF THE MODEL NUMBER, THEN THERE IS REV 5-1-C W G 15221............... WHAT ALL HAS TO MATCH WHEN REPLACING THE MID FRAME.

    mike gentry - Reply

    Achtung! Bei meiner Reperatur, besonders bei Schritt 14, Auf gar keinen Fall versuchen den Kleber mit einem der Plektren zu lösen. Dort kann man schnell zwischen Displayrahmen und Glas rutschen und so das Display beschädigen!!!

    TheECanyon - Reply

    Once I got the back off I spotted my issue, This was a tough phone. 5 years of service in the marine industry. I spotted corrosion as I was unplugging. so I continued the battery had so much adhesive , you know the rest.

    digitize r! It had drowned at least four times, was still working but had to be on the charger unless it was in safe mode. So good luck !

    There are more symptoms for others to decide . I like this place reminds me as as a kid in the sixties, lol

    Gerald - Reply

  15. Android Fix Kits

    A new screen or battery is one kit away.

    Shop Now

    Android Fix Kits

    A new screen or battery is one kit away.

    Shop Now
  16. Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the battery connector from its socket on the motherboard. Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the battery connector from its socket on the motherboard.
    • Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the battery connector from its socket on the motherboard.

    When putting in the new battery should this click back in place? I can’t seem to get it in place.

    terrific_terri8 - Reply

  17. Use the pointed edge of a spudger to disconnect the Bluetooth and Wi-Fi antenna cable connectors from their sockets on the motherboard. Use the pointed edge of a spudger to disconnect the Bluetooth and Wi-Fi antenna cable connectors from their sockets on the motherboard. Use the pointed edge of a spudger to disconnect the Bluetooth and Wi-Fi antenna cable connectors from their sockets on the motherboard.
    • Use the pointed edge of a spudger to disconnect the Bluetooth and Wi-Fi antenna cable connectors from their sockets on the motherboard.

    This portion of the repair caused me problems after phone was closed up. The bluetooth cable on the left of the phone was not placed back into its cable track and was pinched off by screen once frame was placed in metal housing.

    Sebastian Diaz - Reply

  18. Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the home button connector. Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the home button connector.
    • Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the home button connector.

  19. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display assembly cable from the motherboard. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display assembly cable from the motherboard.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display assembly cable from the motherboard.

    Does taking the motherboard out wipe the phone?

    Uil'yam - Reply

    No, after disconnecting the battery there’s no way for info to be moved from the memory, until it’s connected to a power source again.

    Wayne Lyell - Reply

  20. Disconnect the earpiece speaker assembly cable  connector from the motherboard. Disconnect the earpiece speaker assembly cable  connector from the motherboard.
    • Disconnect the earpiece speaker assembly cable connector from the motherboard.

  21. Lift the camera-side end of the motherboard to separate it from the display frame. You may need to move some of the ribbon cables out of the way while you lift the motherboard. If the board is hard to lift, check that it is fully disconnected and not caught on any ribbon cables.
    • Lift the camera-side end of the motherboard to separate it from the display frame.

    • You may need to move some of the ribbon cables out of the way while you lift the motherboard. If the board is hard to lift, check that it is fully disconnected and not caught on any ribbon cables.

    • Do not fully remove the motherboard yet—it is still attached to the daughterboard via a ribbon cable on the underside of the motherboard.

  22. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the daughterboard ribbon cable connector from its socket on the underside of the motherboard. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the daughterboard ribbon cable connector from its socket on the underside of the motherboard.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the daughterboard ribbon cable connector from its socket on the underside of the motherboard.

  23. If your display glass is badly cracked, tape over the glass to contain stray glass and make prying easier. Reheat the iOpener.
    • If your display glass is badly cracked, tape over the glass to contain stray glass and make prying easier.

    • Reheat the iOpener.

    • Lay the iOpener across the S6 display. After two minutes, shift the iOpener to the other half of the screen.

    • You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the phone warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

  24. Insert the opening pick in the battery-side edge of the phone, between the frame and display, at an upward angle. When done correctly, you will see a gap between the display frame and the display assembly. When done incorrectly, the pick will be visible through the glass. If this happens simply remove the pick and start again.
    • Insert the opening pick in the battery-side edge of the phone, between the frame and display, at an upward angle.

    • When done correctly, you will see a gap between the display frame and the display assembly.

    • When done incorrectly, the pick will be visible through the glass. If this happens simply remove the pick and start again.

    Your warning says “When done incorrectly, the pick will be visible through the LCD. If this happens simply remove the pick and start again” but this is the opposite - you should see the pick through the LCD otherwise you’ll destroy it and it will also need to be replaced.

    B B - Reply

    The warning says “When done incorrectly, the pick will be visible through the LCD. If this happens simply remove the pick and start again” but this is the opposite of what you should do - the pick SHOULD BE VISIBLE through the screen otherwise you’ll destroy the LCD.

    B B - Reply

    not sure about that BB, if the pick is visible, it’s between the digitizer and the lcd… you want these two to come off together or the digitizer will not be functional after being ripped off the LCD.

    hogdoctor - Reply

    I was too vigorous with the pick, and maybe not pointed up (away from the glass) enough, but I got the pick far enough into the digitiser that it peeled the glass off of the digitiser. Ruined it. If you can see the pick through the glass STOP.

    Buck - Reply

    Totally agree with you guys, “hogdoctor” and “Buck”.

    Yes, “you want these two to come off together” and “if you can see the pick through the glass STOP”.

    As you can see in step 23 image #3 that is totally not good.

    What you actually want to see if done right is on step 31.

    Gustavo Zarate - Reply

    in my own opinion, a better/easier method is to actually remove the battery after disconnecting all of the connections from the daughter/logic board, and if you slide a pick inbetween the plastic to where its visible where the battery originally was, you’re doing it correctly. if you can see it through the glass screen as if you were looking at your phone, you’re going between the LCD/Digitizer Assembly, and the Protective Glass Screen Overlay. If you’re removing the LCD/Digitizer/Glass Screen as a Whole, being able to see the pick through the battery compartment is a great, and easy way to know youre okay. This is a Great repair guide, but Repairs Universe on YT did an extremely thorough job on walking me through the replacement procedure and LCD&Digitzer removal.

    Josh Baldwin - Reply

    Hi Josh,

    I agree that having that visual cue is a very handy option. If you are also replacing the battery, this is a great option!

    We opted not to suggest battery removal because of safety reasons. We recommend against re-installing used batteries. Any prying action or bend could have compromised the battery even if you can’t see it, and cause problems in the long term.

    Arthur Shi -

  25. Slide the pick down the edge of the display to separate the adhesive underneath. Stop cutting when you get to the daughterboard to avoid the delicate capacitive button under the display.
    • Slide the pick down the edge of the display to separate the adhesive underneath.

    • Stop cutting when you get to the daughterboard to avoid the delicate capacitive button under the display.

    • If cutting becomes difficult at any point, reheat and reapply the iOpener.

    • After cutting the adhesive, leave the pick in the side of the display to prevent the display from re-adhering to the frame.

  26. Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the phone, from the headphone jack to just past the charging port. Do not insert the opening pick more than 0.25 inches (~6mm) to avoid damaging the home button.
    • Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the phone, from the headphone jack to just past the charging port.

    • Do not insert the opening pick more than 0.25 inches (~6mm) to avoid damaging the home button.

  27. Insert an opening pick about 0.5 inches (~12mm) under the bottom corner of the display, near the headphone jack. Keep a close eye on the button's ribbon cable as you insert the pick. The cable is fragile and very easy to tear. If the pick is hard to insert or the cable starts to stretch, apply more heat.
    • Insert an opening pick about 0.5 inches (~12mm) under the bottom corner of the display, near the headphone jack.

    • Keep a close eye on the button's ribbon cable as you insert the pick. The cable is fragile and very easy to tear. If the pick is hard to insert or the cable starts to stretch, apply more heat.

    • Leave the pick under the display to prevent the button from re-adhering to the display.

    • If you do break either of the capacitive buttons or ribbon cables, you can replace the daughterboard assembly, which includes new capacitive buttons.

  28. Insert an opening pick about 0.5 inches (~12mm) under the opposite bottom corner of the display. Keep a close eye on the button's ribbon cable as you insert the pick. The cable is fragile and very easy to tear. If the pick is hard to insert or the cable starts to stretch, apply more heat.
    • Insert an opening pick about 0.5 inches (~12mm) under the opposite bottom corner of the display.

    • Keep a close eye on the button's ribbon cable as you insert the pick. The cable is fragile and very easy to tear. If the pick is hard to insert or the cable starts to stretch, apply more heat.

    • Leave the pick under the display to prevent the button from re-adhering to the display.

  29. Slide an opening pick along the side of the phone opposite the battery to separate the adhesive underneath. After cutting the adhesive, leave the pick in the side of the display to prevent the display from re-adhering to the frame.
    • Slide an opening pick along the side of the phone opposite the battery to separate the adhesive underneath.

    • After cutting the adhesive, leave the pick in the side of the display to prevent the display from re-adhering to the frame.

    I found that I could not free the black sticker digitizer in the middle without damaging the digitizer see fig 39. I don’t know if the UK Samsung is glued better? but its very stuck to the frame, be very very careful to separate the pink and black digitizer, they are very expensive, I wish I dug deeper on the internet first, this step could take 30+ mins to do

    databeat1 - Reply

  30. Slide a pick along the top of the phone towards the vibrator. Pull the pick out slightly to avoid the earpiece speaker grille. Pull the pick out slightly to avoid the earpiece speaker grille.
    • Slide a pick along the top of the phone towards the vibrator.

    • Pull the pick out slightly to avoid the earpiece speaker grille.

  31. Use an opening pick to gently pry the battery side of the frame away from the display. If the display and frame to not separate easily, use an opening pick to cut any remaining adhesive. If cutting is difficult, reheat and reapply an iOpener.
    • Use an opening pick to gently pry the battery side of the frame away from the display.

    • If the display and frame to not separate easily, use an opening pick to cut any remaining adhesive. If cutting is difficult, reheat and reapply an iOpener.

    • Do not completely remove the display yet. The display cable is still threaded through the frame.

    This should really be pointed out more than it is. I've gone through a few phones by destroying the IC. Of course if you're doing the repair without instructions it's no ones fault but your own. (guilty) But... This warning should be in BOLD and CAPPED with blinking lights and arrows.

    Felix Robinson - Reply

  32. Route the display's flex cable through its hole in the frame in order to fully separate the right edge of the display. Route the display's flex cable through its hole in the frame in order to fully separate the right edge of the display.
    • Route the display's flex cable through its hole in the frame in order to fully separate the right edge of the display.

  33. Before installing a new display, it's very important to remove all traces of the old adhesive from the frame, while taking special care to remove any small glass fragments.
    • Before installing a new display, it's very important to remove all traces of the old adhesive from the frame, while taking special care to remove any small glass fragments.

    • After removing all traces of glue and glass from the frame, clean the adhesion areas with 90% (or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth or coffee filter. Swipe in one direction only, not back and forth.

    • If the frame is bent, or if any glue or glass remnants are left behind, the new display will not mount correctly and may be damaged. If necessary, replace the frame.

    • The best way to secure the new screen is with a sheet of custom-cut double-sided tape. Apply the tape to the back of the screen, then carefully feed the display cable through the frame. Align the screen and press it into place.

    Great guide. My goal is to disable my left sofy key. I have done this with software fixes but due to a short somewhere and possibly some water damage the button hits it self continuously causing the phone to run slow even though I used an app to tell it to take no action when the button is hit. Looks like step 42 I should disconnect/break the connection.

    If anyone knows an easier way please advise.

    ptrgrnwd - Reply

    Great illustrations and the best tutorial I have seen. Steps are easy and simple to follow.

    Rafael - Reply

    Really good to follow reparing the phone. But i'm afarid of seeing other word like korea

    James - Reply

    What is the copper foil for shown here on the back of the display assembly? I tore it.

    AjL - Reply

    C'etait extrêmement difficile pour ma part.

    It was extremely difficult for me.

    Easy Repair - Reply

    Umm, I bought the ifixit screen repair kit and battery repair kit, but you guys never talk about how, when, and where the white adhesive goes, what step, etc… I also have two blue strips that I”m not sure what they’re for. ???

    John R - Reply

  34. Remove the single 3.0mm Phillips #00 screw securing the daughterboard to the display frame.
    • Remove the single 3.0mm Phillips #00 screw securing the daughterboard to the display frame.

  35. Flip the display frame over so the home button is facing you. Insert the pointed edge of the spudger into the groove next to the right soft button LED cable. Gently lift the LED cable off the display frame.
    • Flip the display frame over so the home button is facing you.

    • Insert the pointed edge of the spudger into the groove next to the right soft button LED cable.

    • Gently lift the LED cable off the display frame.

    • Be careful to not rip these delicate cables when peeling them off the plastic frame.

    I was transferring the daughterboard to a different frame. Flipped up the led cables and realized that the LEDs remained in the recessed area on the old frame. I thought these LEDs would peel off as a unit with the cables. It did not. Is this normal?

    Lloyd Campbell - Reply

  36. Insert the pointed edge of the spudger into the groove above the left soft button LED cable. Lift the left soft button LED cable off the plastic frame. Lift the left soft button LED cable off the plastic frame.
    • Insert the pointed edge of the spudger into the groove above the left soft button LED cable.

    • Lift the left soft button LED cable off the plastic frame.

  37. Flip the frame over again and lift up the daughterboard to peel it off the display frame. Flip the frame over again and lift up the daughterboard to peel it off the display frame. Flip the frame over again and lift up the daughterboard to peel it off the display frame.
    • Flip the frame over again and lift up the daughterboard to peel it off the display frame.

  38. Orient the display frame so the home button connector faces you. Use the pointed edge of the spudger to separate the home button ribbon cable from the display frame. Be careful when removing the home button ribbon cable. It is delicate and can tear easily.
    • Orient the display frame so the home button connector faces you.

    • Use the pointed edge of the spudger to separate the home button ribbon cable from the display frame.

    • Be careful when removing the home button ribbon cable. It is delicate and can tear easily.

  39. Use the pointed end of a spudger to push the home button cable through the display frame. Use the pointed end of a spudger to push the home button cable through the display frame.
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to push the home button cable through the display frame.

  40. Flip the display frame over and use the pointed end of a spudger to pull the home button cable completely through the hole. Flip the display frame over and use the pointed end of a spudger to pull the home button cable completely through the hole. Flip the display frame over and use the pointed end of a spudger to pull the home button cable completely through the hole.
    • Flip the display frame over and use the pointed end of a spudger to pull the home button cable completely through the hole.

  41. Slide the spudger under the cable to continue separating it from the frame. Slide the spudger under the cable to continue separating it from the frame. Slide the spudger under the cable to continue separating it from the frame.
    • Slide the spudger under the cable to continue separating it from the frame.

  42. The button is held in place by a tab on each side. To remove the button, it needs to move far enough over to clear the edge of the bracket. Once the cable is entirely separated from the frame, use a spudger to push the home button to the far left of its bracket. Use a spudger to push the home button up and out of its bracket.
    • The button is held in place by a tab on each side. To remove the button, it needs to move far enough over to clear the edge of the bracket.

    • Once the cable is entirely separated from the frame, use a spudger to push the home button to the far left of its bracket.

    • Use a spudger to push the home button up and out of its bracket.

  43. Remove the home button.
    • Remove the home button.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. When reinstalling the rear glass, refer to the rear glass adhesive replacement guide.

21 other people completed this guide.

Dante Mazzanti

Member since: 07/13/2015

33,075 Reputation

26 Guides authored

6 Comments

So it's literally the last thing you remove on the entire stinking thing /facepalm

Jakim Toomey - Reply

Can i change the fingerprint sensor? My fingerprint sensor is having a issue: "make sure the home key is clean and dry". But its so clean and so dry. Can sameone help me? Would I fix that sensor or change it to another?

Caio c - Reply

You forgot to mention how to enable the fingerprint sensor when you replace the home button. When you replace the home button the fingerprint sensor wont work. Not sure what Samsung does but it has to be a software flash to allow the new part to marry to the mother board. There are lots of how to articles and videos that are half assed and just give enough info to get you into trouble. Though I wouldnt pay Samsung $100 to replace a button, these facts should be included in the repair article. Im really surprised no one has the fix for this in the form of an APK. Ive seen lots of screen replacement videos and all are half assed that show you the wrong way to remove the screen digitizer. I ripped my home button and back buttons circuit because of idiots that post how to videos that skip these important steps. I wish I would have paid the extra $$ and had the local shop do my repair from the start. He told me that the sensor wont work after repair and so far he is correct.

GGG - Reply

I broke my display doing this :( I suggest you not to do it if you are not 100 % sure of yours skills.

Andrea Silvestro - Reply

This is such BS. there is a faster way to get to the button if you think f it. they are just trying to make it seem difficult/complex so you pay others to do it.

Jay Smith - Reply

These instructions are downright incorrect and dangerous! Going from the outside in with a pick like that is guaranteed to damage the LCD and separate it from the digitizer due to the way they are assembled. You should be using that little window in the plastic frame underneath where the battery was to start removing the plastic frame, and once that’s lifted up it’s safe to continue working around the outside.

Some Guy - Reply

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 15

Past 7 Days: 64

Past 30 Days: 287

All Time: 68,419