Introduction

Use this guide to replace the daughterboard on a Samsung Galaxy S6. The daughterboard is home to the headphone jack, LED soft buttons, and the USB charging port. If you're having charging issues or your aux port isn't working, replacing the daughterboard is a good place to start.

This guide involves removing the rear glass. Removing the rear glass destroys the adhesive holding it in place. Follow this guide to reinstall the rear glass.

Image 1/2: Press to eject the SIM card tray. Image 2/2: Don't press too hard or you may damage the SIM  card tray.
  • Insert a paper clip or SIM eject tool into the hole in the SIM card slot on the power button side of the phone.

  • Press to eject the SIM card tray.

    • Don't press too hard or you may damage the SIM card tray.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the SIM card tray from the phone.

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Image 1/2: Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave. Image 2/2: For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.
  • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - Reply

I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

hello -

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - Reply

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - Reply

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - Reply

Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

Fletcher Carpenter - Reply

Image 1/1: Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
  • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

  • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

  • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

  • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

  • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - Reply

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - Reply

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - Reply

I don't own a microwave.

mdanihy - Reply

Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

Jon - Reply

Image 1/1: The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.
  • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

  • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

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Image 1/2: If your glass is shattered, put packing tape over the entire panel to hold it together during the removal process. Image 2/2: Lay the iOpener over the panel for about 60 seconds to loosen the adhesive around the edge of the glass.
  • Place the phone facedown.

  • If your glass is shattered, put packing tape over the entire panel to hold it together during the removal process.

  • Lay the iOpener over the panel for about 60 seconds to loosen the adhesive around the edge of the glass.

  • Shift the iOpener to heat the remaining section of the panel for another 60 seconds.

are there any option out there that allows you to heat the adhesive outdoors without any power plug?

Brotan Store - Reply

There's a star in the center of our solar system, you could try that.

John Joiner -

the way we do it at Get it fixed cellphone repair calgary is with a heat gun, wich is way easier than this, make sure to wear some gloves and dont worry to use to much heat as long as you point just to the back of the phone, (the back panel is thick enough to protect the logic board from over heat) instead of the usual blue plastic piece i sugest to use the thinnest metal razor knife and a business card so you can insert the business card and move it all around the frame, those blue plastic things are way too thick that will break the glass panel if you apply to much pressure

get it fixed - Reply

After did that with my own heat pad, the white paint got ripped off but luckily glass back cover did not break. So I scratched all white part of the back cover and now its all transparent.

Jae Chung - Reply

Image 1/3: Secure the suction cup by raising the hinged handle and flipping the latch to clamp both handles in place. Image 2/3: Secure the suction cup by raising the hinged handle and flipping the latch to clamp both handles in place. Image 3/3: Secure the suction cup by raising the hinged handle and flipping the latch to clamp both handles in place.
  • Attach a heavy-duty suction cup to the lower half of the rear glass panel.

  • Secure the suction cup by raising the hinged handle and flipping the latch to clamp both handles in place.

If the rear screen is cracked/smashed, you will not be able to use a suction cup to remove it. The suction could would not seal because of the cracks. I tried masking tape, 3M shiny HVAC tape, and others, and the suction could would not seal to those surfaces either.

I ended up using the sharp point of the smudger to remove some shards of glass to get underneath the cover to leverage it up and out. Definitely use gloves and safety glasses if you have to do this.

dougpender - Reply

Thank you for your comment. I needed to see this particular instance of what to do when the back cover was cracked. I was going to try to suction it with tape covering it. This saved me some heartache. You're an angel!!

Jessie Brooks -

Image 1/2: Using the suction cup, apply pressure to the middle section of the panel while pulling up the lower edge by pivoting your wrist. Image 2/2: Using the suction cup, apply pressure to the middle section of the panel while pulling up the lower edge by pivoting your wrist.
  • The following steps involve using an opening pick to separate the rear panel from the midframe. If the adhesive is too strong, reapply heat with the iOpener.

  • Using the suction cup, apply pressure to the middle section of the panel while pulling up the lower edge by pivoting your wrist.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Once you've opened a large enough gap, insert an opening pick between the rear glass and the midframe.

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  • Slide the opening pick around the bottom left corner of the rear glass panel.

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  • Slide the pick along the power button side of the phone.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Slide the opening pick across the top of the phone.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Slide the opening pick down along the volume buttons side of the phone.

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Image 1/3: If you encounter too much resistance from the adhesive,  slide the opening pick under the glass a few more times. Image 2/3: If you encounter too much resistance from the adhesive,  slide the opening pick under the glass a few more times. Image 3/3: If you encounter too much resistance from the adhesive,  slide the opening pick under the glass a few more times.
  • Pull up on the rear glass panel while holding down the midframe to separate the components.

    • If you encounter too much resistance from the adhesive, slide the opening pick under the glass a few more times.

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Image 1/3: Slide the pick along the top of the phone to loosen the remaining adhesive. Image 2/3: Twist the pick to separate the two pieces. Image 3/3: Twist the pick to separate the two pieces.
  • Insert an opening pick between the rear panel and the midframe.

  • Slide the pick along the top of the phone to loosen the remaining adhesive.

  • Twist the pick to separate the two pieces.

i found the glue very very strong, i didn’t have this powerful sucker, so ended up getting a new rear glass heated and heated but would not pull up with standard suckers

databeat1 - Reply

Image 1/3: Pull the rear panel up and away to completely separate it. Image 2/3: Follow [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Samsung+Galaxy+S6+Edge+Rear+Glass+Adhesive+Replacement/47490|this guide] to reinstall the rear glass. Image 3/3: Follow [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Samsung+Galaxy+S6+Edge+Rear+Glass+Adhesive+Replacement/47490|this guide] to reinstall the rear glass.
  • At this point, the rear glass panel should be fully separated from the body of the phone, although the adhesive strip may be attached to both sides.

  • Pull the rear panel up and away to completely separate it.

  • Follow this guide to reinstall the rear glass.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the thirteen 3.5mm Phillips #00 screws securing the midframe to the phone.

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Image 1/3: Lift up on the midframe assembly while pushing down on the battery to separate the midframe assembly from the rest of the phone. Image 2/3: Lift up on the midframe assembly while pushing down on the battery to separate the midframe assembly from the rest of the phone. Image 3/3: Lift up on the midframe assembly while pushing down on the battery to separate the midframe assembly from the rest of the phone.
  • Firmly grasp the edge of the midframe assembly.

  • Lift up on the midframe assembly while pushing down on the battery to separate the midframe assembly from the rest of the phone.

FIRMLY GRASP IT! - Patrick

Armen Orbelyan - Reply

Bei diesem Schritt sicher sein, dass SIM Card Fach entfernt ist!

zikal - Reply

I found the glue still very sticky here, i had to go around with my picks to free it, its very stuck with a UK version, beware!!

databeat1 - Reply

i suggest to apply heat on the corners of the front screen to lose the adhesive a lil bit and push from the bottom back of the phone right where the wireless charger is because of the charging port

get it fixed - Reply

When grabbing from the bottom, you fun the risk of damaging the charging port and headphone jack. I would suggest starting from the top. This is because the two ports at the bottom slide down into the frame. There is also adhesive that will give you a little resistance.

Alex Philip - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Lift the midframe assembly up to separate it from the rest of the phone.

what do the numbers ZF-N2 AS WELL AS (F13) AT THE END OF THE MODEL NUMBER, THEN THERE IS REV 5-1-C W G 15221............... WHAT ALL HAS TO MATCH WHEN REPLACING THE MID FRAME.

mike gentry - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the battery connector from its socket on the motherboard.

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Image 1/3: Be careful to keep the pick as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals. Image 2/3: Push the pick further in to separate the battery from the phone. Image 3/3: If the battery is too strongly adhered for the opening pick, place a warm iOpener over the battery to loosen the adhesive.
  • Insert a plastic opening pick between the case and the battery.

    • Be careful to keep the pick as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals.

  • Push the pick further in to separate the battery from the phone.

    • If the battery is too strongly adhered for the opening pick, place a warm iOpener over the battery to loosen the adhesive.

    • Do not pry against the motherboard or you may damage the phone.

Do you have to remove the battery to remove the motherboard? I just need to remove the motherboard for soldering.

Jake - Reply

No, it is not necessary to remove the battery.

cityzen -

However, it makes it easier to handle the phone with the battery taken off.

Ben -

I used a trick from a different phone tear down, but it really helps, slip a length of dental floss under the top edge of the battery, then with a back and forth action of the floss, you can slice through the adhesive and easily remove the battery, worked great on this phone.

danechapman - Reply

Dude that's awesome, wish someone would have mentioned this a long time ago. Battery removal can be a pain. Defiantly going to try that sometime soon!

Felix Robinson -

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the battery from the phone.

Question!? If the screen is barley cracked at the coner, (2cm) of the phone, would it shatter thru this process!? Please let me know ASAP!?

dominiquem1991 - Reply

again, mine a UK version was very sticky beware!!

databeat1 - Reply

Yes the UK version is very well glued in. I recommend using a flat metal spudger and pushing it in from the bottom right side and then continue doing the same working up. This method seems to be the safest and only takes a minute or two

martywild10 -

Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Use the pointed edge of a spudger to disconnect the Bluetooth and Wi-Fi antenna cable connectors from their sockets on the motherboard.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the home button connector.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display assembly cable from the motherboard.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Disconnect the earpiece speaker assembly cable connector from the motherboard.

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Image 1/2: Do '''not''' fully remove the motherboard yet—it is still attached to the daughterboard via a ribbon cable on the underside of the motherboard. Image 2/2: Do '''not''' fully remove the motherboard yet—it is still attached to the daughterboard via a ribbon cable on the underside of the motherboard.
  • Lift the camera-side end of the motherboard to separate it from the display frame.

  • Do not fully remove the motherboard yet—it is still attached to the daughterboard via a ribbon cable on the underside of the motherboard.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Disconnect the daughterboard ribbon cable connector from its socket on the underside of the motherboard.

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Image 1/2: Lay the iOpener across the S6 display. After 30 seconds, shift the iOpener to the other half of the screen. Image 2/2: Lay the iOpener across the S6 display. After 30 seconds, shift the iOpener to the other half of the screen.
  • Reheat the iOpener.

  • Lay the iOpener across the S6 display. After 30 seconds, shift the iOpener to the other half of the screen.

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Image 1/3: The plastic frame is glued to the display assembly. The following steps separate the plastic frame from the display assembly. Image 2/3: It's very possible to accidentally destroy the LCD screen at this point. Be extremely careful separating these parts. Image 3/3: When done correctly, you will see a gap between the display frame and the display assembly.
  • Insert the opening pick at an upward angle.

  • The plastic frame is glued to the display assembly. The following steps separate the plastic frame from the display assembly.

    • It's very possible to accidentally destroy the LCD screen at this point. Be extremely careful separating these parts.

    • When done correctly, you will see a gap between the display frame and the display assembly.

    • When done incorrectly, the pick will be visible through the LCD. If this happens simply remove the pick and start again.

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Image 1/3: Insert an opening pick on the right side of the phone between the display assembly and plastic display frame. Image 2/3: Insert an opening pick on the right side of the phone between the display assembly and plastic display frame. Image 3/3: Insert an opening pick on the right side of the phone between the display assembly and plastic display frame.
  • Flip the phone over so it's facedown.

  • Insert an opening pick on the right side of the phone between the display assembly and plastic display frame.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Slide the pick downwards to separate the display frame from the display assembly.

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Image 1/3: Insert a second opening pick between the frame and display assembly on the display cable side of the phone. Image 2/3: Insert a second opening pick between the frame and display assembly on the display cable side of the phone. Image 3/3: Insert a second opening pick between the frame and display assembly on the display cable side of the phone.
  • Leave the first opening pick next to the headphone jack.

  • Insert a second opening pick between the frame and display assembly on the display cable side of the phone.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Slide the second pick towards the daughterboard.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Insert another pick between the display frame and digitizer from the top side of the phone.

I found that I could not free the black sticker digitizer in the middle without damaging the digitizer see fig 39. I don’t know if the UK Samsung is glued better? but its very stuck to the frame, be very very careful to separate the pink and black digitizer, they are very expensive, I wish I dug deeper on the internet first, this step could take 30+ mins to do

databeat1 - Reply

Image 1/2: Pull the pick out slightly to avoid the earpiece speaker grille. Image 2/2: Pull the pick out slightly to avoid the earpiece speaker grille.
  • Slide the pick along the top of the phone towards the vibrator.

    • Pull the pick out slightly to avoid the earpiece speaker grille.

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Image 1/3: Use just the tip of the pick for this step, as the touchscreen controller IC is below the display frame in the top right corner. Image 2/3: Use just the tip of the pick for this step, as the touchscreen controller IC is below the display frame in the top right corner. Image 3/3: Use just the tip of the pick for this step, as the touchscreen controller IC is below the display frame in the top right corner.
  • Slide the opening pick around the top right corner of the phone.

  • Use just the tip of the pick for this step, as the touchscreen controller IC is below the display frame in the top right corner.

This should really be pointed out more than it is. I've gone through a few phones by destroying the IC. Of course if you're doing the repair without instructions it's no ones fault but your own. (guilty) But... This warning should be in BOLD and CAPPED with blinking lights and arrows.

Felix Robinson - Reply

Image 1/3: Twist the opening pick to separate the plastic frame from the display assembly. Image 2/3: Twist the opening pick to separate the plastic frame from the display assembly. Image 3/3: Twist the opening pick to separate the plastic frame from the display assembly.
  • Grasp the opening pick next to the headphone jack and slide it to the bottom right corner of the display frame.

  • Twist the opening pick to separate the plastic frame from the display assembly.

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Image 1/3: Once you've lifted the frame past 90 degrees, thread the digitizer cable through its hole in the display frame and separate the frame from the display assembly. Image 2/3: Once you've lifted the frame past 90 degrees, thread the digitizer cable through its hole in the display frame and separate the frame from the display assembly. Image 3/3: Once you've lifted the frame past 90 degrees, thread the digitizer cable through its hole in the display frame and separate the frame from the display assembly.
  • Continue to lift the plastic frame from the right side, using the display connector as a hinge.

  • Once you've lifted the frame past 90 degrees, thread the digitizer cable through its hole in the display frame and separate the frame from the display assembly.

I tried this but i failed, i ended up sending it to https://www.repairsuk.co.uk/fix/samsung-... to sort it out lol

Damian - Reply

Great guide. My goal is to disable my left sofy key. I have done this with software fixes but due to a short somewhere and possibly some water damage the button hits it self continuously causing the phone to run slow even though I used an app to tell it to take no action when the button is hit. Looks like step 42 I should disconnect/break the connection.

If anyone knows an easier way please advise.

ptrgrnwd - Reply

Great illustrations and the best tutorial I have seen. Steps are easy and simple to follow.

Rafael - Reply

Really good to follow reparing the phone. But i'm afarid of seeing other word like korea

James - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the single 3.0mm Phillips #00 screw securing the daughterboard to the display frame.

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Image 1/3: Insert the pointed edge of the spudger into the groove next to the right soft button LED cable. Image 2/3: Gently lift the LED cable off the display frame. Image 3/3: Be careful to not rip these delicate cables when peeling them off the plastic frame.
  • Flip the display frame over so the home button is facing you.

  • Insert the pointed edge of the spudger into the groove next to the right soft button LED cable.

  • Gently lift the LED cable off the display frame.

    • Be careful to not rip these delicate cables when peeling them off the plastic frame.

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Image 1/3: Lift the left soft button LED cable off the plastic frame. Image 2/3: Lift the left soft button LED cable off the plastic frame. Image 3/3: Lift the left soft button LED cable off the plastic frame.
  • Insert the pointed edge of the spudger into the groove above the left soft button LED cable.

  • Lift the left soft button LED cable off the plastic frame.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Flip the frame over again and lift up the daughterboard to peel it off the display frame.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. When reinstalling the rear glass, refer to the rear glass adhesive replacement guide.

40 other people completed this guide.

Dante Mazzanti

Member since: 07/13/2015

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76 Guides authored

8 Comments

Step 41

I could not find any led cables... after the repair the led soft keys work and vibrate but do not light up... anyway to fix this problem? Fixing g925a

Devin Gonzales - Reply

For step 41

I could not find and led cables to remove... and after there repair the led light forsaken the soft keys do not light up but they do work and vibrate... what should I do?

Devin Gonzales - Reply

I would definitely recommend heating and prying before carrying out step 17. There is a lot of glue holding the frame together and not heating and prying could easily lead to screen damage.

Marty - Reply

STEP 30 - What about the glue between the plastic frame and display assembly. Is there a product to use to glue it up again?

aaron - Reply

Do you know if coaxial antenna cable from s6 edge works on s6? I managed to broke it and i dont find to buy for s6.

Tracke - Reply

Hello, I replaced the "daughter board" thinking it would fix my microphone issue but it did not. I tried restoring the phone and still nothing. I have no water damage. Does anyone have any suggestions? Please help.

drumerkid424 - Reply

It could be incompatible. There are about 10 different charging ports made for this Galaxy s6 and its variations. If the wrong one from the wrong network is put in sometimes cables don't reach and additional problems due to a mismatch may occur.

The void spaces in the device's frame allow the correct board and board components to fit. Correctly matched parts allow the mother/daughter board to fit flat (as designed) and go back together once you are done replacing parts. If a mic does not match up to it's hole through the frame, you might block sound. Look at the frame to the right of the charging port while the screen is face up. If that hole is clogged it should be cleaned. If the sound quality improves, than I would probably consider opening it up to clean the inside of the frame and the mic.

One more thing. A microphone actually. With your phone's back side down, viewing from the top, there is a microphone hole just to the left of the infrared blaster. I do believe this one is attached to the motherboard.

Raymond Vassil - Reply

Doing it this way is terrible, and for the most part worthless, unless the screen is already damaged.

The only safe way to replace the charging port is to desolder it and resolder a new one on. Otherwise...

kyle - Reply

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