MacBook Pro Unibody 13" and 15" MagSafe DC-In Board

$24.95

Product code: IF163-011
Apple Part #: 661-5217, 661-5235, 922-9307, 820-2565-A

 

MacBook Pro Unibody 13" and 15" MagSafe DC-In Board

$24.95

Product code: IF163-011
Apple Part #: 661-5217, 661-5235, 922-9307, 820-2565-A

Product Overview

Practice safe charging!

This part connects the wall adapter power to the logic board. A safe magnetic connection prevents damage to the laptop caused by tripping over the power cord.

Compatibility

Identify your Mac

  • All Mid 2009 13" Unibody MacBook Pros
  • All Mid 2010 13" Unibody MacBook Pros
  • All Early 2011 13" Unibody MacBook Pros
  • All Late 2011 13" Unibody MacBook Pros
  • All Mid 2012 13" Unibody MacBook Pros
  • All Mid 2009 15" Unibody MacBook Pros
  • All Mid 2010 15" Unibody MacBook Pros
  • All Early 2011 15" Unibody MacBook Pros
  • All Late 2011 15" Unibody MacBook Pros
  • All Mid 2012 15" Unibody MacBook Pros

Product Details

$24.95 New

 

Condition:

New

$14.95 Used

 

Condition:

Used, fully tested

Notes:

This used part may be missing the light gray plastic face. The plastic can be transferred from your existing part.

Add to Cart
 

Replacement Guides

MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011

Difficulty: Difficult

MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011

Difficulty: Difficult

MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009

Difficulty: Difficult

MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010

Difficulty: Difficult

MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012

Difficulty: Difficult

MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Early 2011

Difficulty: Difficult

MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2011

Difficulty: Difficult

MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010

Difficulty: Difficult

MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2012

Difficulty: Difficult

 

Compatibility

MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011
2.3 GHz (Early 2011)
2.7 GHz (Early 2011)
MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011
2.4 GHz (Late 2011)
2.8 GHz (Late 2011)
MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009
2.26 GHz (Mid 2009)
2.53 GHz (Mid 2009)
MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010
2.4 GHz (Mid 2010)
2.66 GHz (Mid 2010)
MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012
2.5 GHz (Mid 2012)
2.9 GHz (Mid 2012)
MacBook Pro 15" Unibody 2.53 GHz Mid 2009
2.53 GHz (Mid 2009)
MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Early 2011
2 GHz (Early 2011)
2.2 GHz (Early 2011)
2.3 GHz (Early 2011)
MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2011
2.2 GHz (Late 2011)
2.4 GHz (Late 2011)
2.5 GHz (Late 2011)
MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2009
2.66 GHz (Mid 2009)
2.8 GHz (Mid 2009)
3.06 GHz (Mid 2009)
MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010
2.4 GHz (Mid 2010)
2.53 GHz (Mid 2010)
2.66 GHz (Mid 2010)
2.8 GHz (Mid 2010)
MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2012
2.3 GHz (Mid 2012)
2.6 GHz (Mid 2012)
2.7 GHz (Mid 2012)
 

Stories

My Problem

The computer was not charging, and there was obvious spark damage in around the MagSafe port.

My Fix

It went fine. The instructions were very clear.

My Advice

Pay attention to the directions on how to remove the little connectors, it makes removing them much easier. I used a flat wooden tool used for clay instead of a spudger, and it worked fine.

My Problem

I was honestly excited about a new Mac I got for my birthday. Next thing I knew my Macbook had a beer spilled on it. Good thing I mostly vacuumed what I could out. It seemed find, until it died and didn't charge again. I switched out the part with a guide on here.

My Fix

Fantastic, very detailed, and easy to follow procedure. Problem solved.

My Advice

The obvious: keep drinks way from electronics. And use these guides for your trouble shooting and fixes. I was happy that they had parts, as Apple doesn't sell them direct. And eBay can be sketchy. I actually didn't even know they sold parts here until I took notice. Great business model, I'll use it again and again.

My Problem

The OS and charger light would indicate the battery was charging, but it wasn't. For example, it would report 85% then if I unplugged it would suddenly drop to 10%. Sometimes, when I thought I had plenty of charge, the battery would completely go dead and the the laptop turn off.

My Fix

Many steps, but easy to follow.

My Advice

Use an egg carton to sort the screws by step. If you don't have a spudger, whittle one out of a chopstick.

My Problem

Doing repairs for a local School district, I'd received a Mac Book from a shop teacher. Any question I'd had about the quality of Apple products was answered after seeing the amount of abuse it had taken before having Magsafe DC-in Board fail.

My Fix

The repair itself isn't overly difficult and this is the 3rd time doing this exact repair, but each time I have had a devil of a time reconnecting (step 11-step 13) the keyboard ribbon cable and the keyboard back-light. Apple doesn't leave much slack in the cable, so once it seems it is in place and locked down, I'd test it and find that I was wrong as the bugger would pop out.

My Advice

First I tried a nice "Locking Tweezer" that I have, but that would not apply equal forward pressure and only one corner of the cable was going in. As I address that one, the other one would pop out.

Then I thought I would wait to secure the logic board in place, until after connecting the two cables believing that I would have better luck maneuvering the board to the cables.... rather than maneuvering the cables to the board. That procedure has worked well has worked well for me in the past on some Chromebooks...but not here. I'd get one in place and locked down, only to see it pop out as I addressed the other. (wack-a-mole)

Best bet is to secure the logic-board, and then place a plastic spudger between the wall of the chassis and the Key-Board ribbon cable, while maneuvering the connector end of the cable into position with another spudger. (kinda chop-sticking it). This means the only forward force on the cable is applied via the spudger (The one placed between the chassis and cable). Once in place, I locked it down and taped it down using Mylar Tape, before addressing the Back-light connector cable.

My Problem

I noticed a while back that the MagSafe connector was getting really hot, hot enough that it fried the two outermost terminals in the DC-In Board's port. I could only charge it when it was off or sleeping - the MagSafe connector would overheat any time I used the computer while charging. I took it to the Genius Bar and was told there was no problem, that it was my fault for not keeping the MagSafe connector and port clean (could be true despite my efforts to do so). They didn't suggest repairing the burnt out DC-In Board, which surprised me. So I looked into making the repair myself, and found iFixit. I bought a tool kit (54 Bit Driver Kit) and a used DC-In Board from iFixit. I followed iFixit's guide and made the repair and now my MacBook Pro's functionality has been restored. The MagSafe connector stays relatively cool during use when charging.

My Fix

The repair went fine. I worked slowly and carefully, using magnification so I could see more clearly, and took the time to clean dust off the fan and logic board while I had it all apart using a soft brush and hand blower. It took me about 3 hours to complete the job. I'm sure it would go faster if I had to do it again.

My Advice

Make a drawing of the fan and logic board showing where all the screws go and place each screw in its spot on the drawing once removed. That way all the screws go back into their original positions with no guess work. Be sure to look at the suggestions other users have posted to the guide. Some of them were helpful to me when I got "stuck" a couple times. One thing I suggest during assembly is to start all the screws that hold the logic board in place before torquing them down. That way you can nudge the board around a little to ease the process of getting all the screws to line up with their holes. Another thing I did was clean off any smudges or prints left by my fingers using a cotton swab wetted (not soaked) with alcohol, so everything went back together as clean as it was when I opened the computer up.

My Problem

I have a 2011 Macbook Pro 13 that would not charge the battery. After serveral phone calls to Apple Help and a trip to "certified" Apple repair center, I was told that they had to send it out to repair ("probably" the power board). Estimate $800, No thanks. Then I found ifixit! After getting the part for $29.99 and a couple of $5 tools, i decided to give it a try. Now, you have to know that I have disassembled many machines, appliances, etc., I rarely get them back together correctly. I usaully end up replacing them.

My Fix

Following the Ifixit 40 step guide (a lot for me) I disassembled about 70% of the laptop and replaced the 13 " Magsafe Power DC - in Board. Reassembly was a bit tedious but not to difficult with the step by step photos in the Ifixit guide. Much to my (and my wife's) suprise, it fired up and started charging like new. Working great all in one hour.

My Advice

Get the right tools and instruction (Ifixit) you can do a lot more than you might think!

My Problem

My MBP was giving problems with battery charging, by the age of the same, and one day to another left magsafe stopped charging. I consulted a friend of apple and technician told me my computer was over a vintage state. He had no money to buy new equipment (did not want to) and I remembered ifixit site where found necessary to venture and make myself spare change.

My Fix

Everything worked ok, just take a good look at some of the steps, but nothing terrible. Only took above 30 minutes...

My Advice

In my opinion, you have to be very careful with steps 5, 11, 13 and 18 of the DC In-board guide, because connectors in this steps have retaining flap.

thallscreative0com's Story Photo #553664
thallscreative0com's Story Photo #553669

My Problem

Typical starving artist, photographer, graphic designer, jack of all things...creative. Repairing the tools of my trade out of neccessity is usually my only fesible option compared to the other choices:

1) Finding a repair service that is a costly, frustrating, long process.

2) Miraculously finding a way to follow the suggested 'trend' of replacing my gear every year.

3) Being given all brand new gear by a kind individual just for doing an accurate impersonation of Chewy. (I've really been holding out for this one.)

Anyway. When the power button was pressed nothing happened. Dead. No battery indicator of any kind. The brand new charger barely lit up with a faint green.

My Fix

Decided to replace DC-in Board. Got it in. Everything went smooth. Got a charge light. Got a battery indicator. Got it turned on. Battery 100% charged. Unfortunately, a hodgepodge of keys on the keyboard are functioning improperly. This was probably the main problem all along because fiddling with the keyboard ribbon and using the power pads is what really seemed to get everything functioning back to normal (aside from the keyboard issue.)

The real issue? It's hard to tell if a case/keyboard replacement is all it needs, or if there are darker problems lying beneath the logic board? A wireless keyboard does work for now. There may also be a heat sink problem associated with this. The bottom case gets very hot only on one half of the laptop...the logic board/heat sink side.

My Advice

The Force is strong in you? Easy slugger, to much of that will defiantly disturb the balance of your equipment . Use the right tool for the job and a bit of patience and a full teardown becomes quite reasonable.

My Problem

The DC connector don't work well and I decide to change it

My Fix

The repair was pretty hard for me but I was able to change the connector but now the mic don't work :( I think that is broken

My Advice

You have to pay attention to the mic that is very fragile and also the trackpad cable it is very hard to fit into its connector, and in my opinion riassembly it is harder than disassembly

My Problem

I was given this MacBook Pro for parts as Apple said it required a logic board. The owner poured a cup and a half of water out of the keyboard...and bought a new MacBook Air. It booted but had obvious faults. The logic board looked fine but the Mag-safe board didn't.

My Fix

The new Mag-safe board arrived in Australia 3 days after ordering...and was fitted. The battery charge light went orange. The battery charged fully and the light went green. The NVM was reset and Yosemite loaded. I'm very happy with the results.

My Advice

The Mag-safe board was designed by Apple to save the logic board from damage...which it did admirably. I was pleased to see iFixit supply a genuine part. The repair was easy after reading the guides. Good quality tools make all the difference.