Arctic Silver Thermal Paste

$8.95

Product code: IF179-010-1

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Arctic Silver Thermal Paste

$8.95

Product code: IF179-010-1

Product Overview

The most important step to keeping your CPU cool.

  • Thermal paste forms a continuous, conductive layer between a processor and its head sink, improving cooling performance and keeping your important chips from overheating.
  • Whenever you remove a heat sink, it's very important to remove the old thermal paste and apply a new layer.
  • To thoroughly clean and prepare thermal surfaces before applying a new layer of Arctic Silver, use Arctic Silver ArctiClean
  • Arctic Silver 5 is made of 99.9% pure silver and is not electrically conductive. See arcticsilver.com for more specs.

Compatibility

  • All machines requiring thermal paste.

Product Details

  $8.95 3.5 grams

 

Condition:

New

Notes:

  • This product cannot be shipped to Mexico.
  • Este producto no puede enviarse a México.

50+ Available

Add to Cart
 

Compatibility

iMac G5 17" Model A1058
1.6 GHz
1.8 GHz (EMC No. 1989)
1.8 GHz (EMC No. 2055)
2 GHz
iMac G5 17" Model A1144
1.9 GHz
iMac G5 20" Model A1076
1.8 GHz
2 GHz
iMac G5 20" Model A1145
2.1 GHz
iMac Intel 17"
1.83 GHz (EMC No. 2104)
1.83 GHz (EMC No. 2110)
1.83 GHz (EMC No. 2124)
2 GHz
2.16 GHz
iMac Intel 20" EMC 2105 and 2118
2 GHz (EMC No. 2105)
2.16 GHz
2.33 GHz
iMac Intel 20" EMC 2133 and 2210
2 GHz (EMC No. 2133)
2.4 GHz (EMC No. 2133)
2.4 GHz (EMC No. 2210)
2.66 GHz (EMC No. 2210)
iMac Intel 20" EMC 2266
2.66 GHz (EMC No. 2266)
iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2308
3.06 GHz (Core 2 Duo)
3.33 GHz (Core 2 Duo)
iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2389
3.06 GHz (Core i3)
3.2 GHz (Core i3)
3.6 GHz (Core i5)
iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2428
2.5 GHz (Core i5)
2.7 GHz (Core i5)
2.8 GHz (Core i7)
iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2544
2.7 GHz (Core i5, Late 2012)
2.9 GHz (Core i5, Late 2012)
3.1 GHz (Core i7, Late 2012)
iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2638
2.7 GHz (Core i5, Late 2013)
2.9 GHz (Core i5, Late 2013)
3.1 GHz (Core i7, Late 2013)
iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2805
1.4 GHz (Core i5, Mid 2014)
iMac Intel 24" EMC 2111
2.16 GHz
2.33 GHz
iMac Intel 24" EMC 2134 and 2211
2.4 GHz
2.8 GHz (EMC No. 2134)
2.8 GHz (EMC No. 2211)
3.06 GHz (EMC No. 2211)
iMac Intel 24" EMC 2267
2.66 GHz
2.93 GHz
3.06 GHz (EMC No. 2267)
iMac Intel 27"
2.66 GHz (Quad Core i5)
2.7 GHz (Core i5)
2.8 GHz (Quad Core i5)
2.8 GHz (Quad Core i7)
2.93 GHz (Quad Core i7)
3.06 GHz (Core 2 Duo)
3.1 GHz (Core i5)
3.2 GHz (Core i3)
3.33 GHz (Core 2 Duo)
3.4 GHz (Core i7)
3.6 GHz (Core i5)
iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546
2.9 GHz (Core i5, Late 2012)
3.2 GHz (Core i5, Late 2012)
3.4 GHz (Core i7, Late 2012)
iMac Intel 27" EMC 2639
3.2 GHz (Core i5, Late 2013)
3.4 GHz (Core i5, Late 2013)
3.5 GHz (Core i7, Late 2013)
iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display
3.5 GHz (Late 2014)
4.0 GHz (Late 2014)
iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display Mid 2015
3.3 GHz (Mid 2015)
Mac mini (PowerPC)
1.25 GHz
1.33 GHz
1.42 GHz
1.5 GHz
Mac mini Intel
1.4 GHz (Dual i5, Late 2014)
2.6 GHz (Dual i5, Late 2014)
2.8 GHz (Dual i5, Late 2014)
3.0 GHz (Dual i7, Late 2014)
Mac Mini Late 2012
2.3 GHz (Quad i7, Late 2012)
2.5 GHz (Dual i5, Late 2012)
2.6 GHz (Quad i7, Late 2012)
Mac Mini Mid 2011
2 GHz (Quad i7, Mid 2011)
2.3 GHz (Dual i5, Mid 2011)
2.5 GHz (Dual i5, Mid 2011)
2.7 GHz (Dual i7, Mid 2011)
Mac mini Model A1176
1.5 GHz (Core Solo, A1176)
1.66 GHz (Core Duo, Early 2006)
1.66 GHz (Core Duo, Late 2006)
1.83 GHz (Core 2 Duo, Mid 2007)
1.83 GHz (Core Duo, Late 2006)
2 GHz (Core 2 Duo, A1176)
Mac mini Model A1283
2 GHz (Core 2 Duo, A1283)
2.26 GHz (A1283)
2.53 GHz (A1283)
2.66 GHz (A1283)
Mac mini Model A1347
2.4 GHz (Core 2 Duo, Mid 2010)
2.66 GHz (Core 2 Duo, Mid 2010)
MacBook Air 11"
1.6 GHz (Early 2015)
2.2 GHz (Early 2015)
MacBook Air 11" Early 2014
1.4 GHz (Early 2014)
1.7 GHz (Early 2014)
MacBook Air 11" Mid 2011
1.6 GHz (Mid 2011)
1.8 GHz (Mid 2011)
MacBook Air 11" Mid 2012
1.7 GHz (Mid 2012)
2.0 GHz (Mid 2012)
MacBook Air 11" Mid 2013
1.3 GHz (Mid 2013)
1.7 GHz (Mid 2013)
MacBook Air 11" Model A1370
1.4 GHz (Late 2010)
1.6 GHz (Late 2010)
MacBook Air 13"
1.6 GHz (Early 2015)
2.2 Ghz (Early 2015)
MacBook Air 13" Early 2014
1.4 GHz (Early 2014)
1.7 GHz (Early 2014)
MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011
1.7 GHz (Mid 2011)
1.8 GHz (Mid 2011)
MacBook Air 13" Mid 2012
1.8 GHz (Mid 2012)
2.0 GHz (Mid 2012)
MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013
1.3 GHz (Mid 2013)
1.7 GHz (Mid 2013)
MacBook Air 13" Model A1369
1.86 GHz (Late 2010)
2.13 GHz (Late 2010)
MacBook Air Models A1237 and A1304
1.6 GHz (Late 2008)
1.6 GHz (Original)
1.8 GHz (Original)
1.86 GHz (Late 2008)
1.86 GHz (Mid 2009)
2.13 GHz (Mid 2009)
MacBook Core 2 Duo
1.83 GHz (Core 2 Duo)
2 GHz (C2D, Late 2006)
2 GHz (C2D, Mid 2007)
2 GHz (Early 2009)
2 GHz (Santa Rosa)
2.1 GHz (Penryn)
2.13 GHz (Mid 2009)
2.16 GHz (Core 2 Duo)
2.2 GHz (Santa Rosa)
2.4 GHz (Penryn)
MacBook Core Duo
1.83 GHz (Core Duo)
2 GHz (Core Duo)
MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2013
2.6 GHz (Early 2013)
3.0 GHz (Early 2013)
MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012
2.5 GHz (Late 2012)
2.9 GHz (Late 2012)
MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013
2.4 GHz (Late 2013)
2.6 GHz (Late 2013)
2.8 GHz (Late 2013)
MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014
2.6 GHz (Mid 2014)
2.8 GHz (Mid 2014)
3.0 GHz (Mid 2014)
MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011
2.3 GHz (Early 2011)
2.7 GHz (Early 2011)
MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011
2.4 GHz (Late 2011)
2.8 GHz (Late 2011)
MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009
2.26 GHz (Mid 2009)
2.53 GHz (Mid 2009)
MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010
2.4 GHz (Mid 2010)
2.66 GHz (Mid 2010)
MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012
2.5 GHz (Mid 2012)
2.9 GHz (Mid 2012)
MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Model A1211
2.16 GHz (Core 2 Duo)
2.33 GHz (Core 2 Duo)
MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260
2.2 GHz (Santa Rosa)
2.4 GHz (Penryn)
2.4 GHz (Santa Rosa)
2.5 GHz (Penryn)
2.6 GHz (Penryn)
2.6 GHz (Santa Rosa)
MacBook Pro 15" Core Duo Model A1150
1.83 GHz (Core Duo)
2 GHz (Core Duo)
2.16 GHz (Core Duo)
MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013
2.4 GHz (Early 2013)
2.7 GHz (Early 2013)
2.8 GHz (Early 2013)
MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013
2.0 GHz (IG, Late 2013)
2.3 GHz (DG, Late 2013)
2.3 GHz (IG, Late 2013)
2.6 GHz (DG, Late 2013)
2.6 GHz (IG, Late 2013)
MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2012
2.3 GHz (Mid 2012)
2.6 GHz (Mid 2012)
2.7 GHz (Mid 2012)
MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2014
2.2 GHz (IG, Mid 2014)
2.5 GHz (DG, Mid 2014)
2.5 GHz (IG, Mid 2014)
2.8 GHz (DG, Mid 2014)
2.8 GHz (IG, Mid 2014)
MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2015
2.2 GHz (IG, Mid 2015)
2.5 GHz (DG, Mid 2015)
2.5 GHz (IG, Mid 2015)
2.8 GHz (DG, Mid 2015)
2.8 GHz (IG, Mid 2015)
MacBook Pro 15" Unibody 2.53 GHz Mid 2009
2.53 GHz (Mid 2009)
MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Early 2011
2 GHz (Early 2011)
2.2 GHz (Early 2011)
2.3 GHz (Early 2011)
MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009
2.4 GHz (Late 2008)
2.53 GHz (Late 2008)
2.66 GHz (Early 2009)
2.8 GHz (Late 2008)
2.93 GHz (Early 2009)
MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2011
2.2 GHz (Late 2011)
2.4 GHz (Late 2011)
2.5 GHz (Late 2011)
MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2009
2.66 GHz (Mid 2009)
2.8 GHz (Mid 2009)
3.06 GHz (Mid 2009)
MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010
2.4 GHz (Mid 2010)
2.53 GHz (Mid 2010)
2.66 GHz (Mid 2010)
2.8 GHz (Mid 2010)
MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2012
2.3 GHz (Mid 2012)
2.6 GHz (Mid 2012)
2.7 GHz (Mid 2012)
MacBook Pro 17" Models A1151 A1212 A1229 and A1261
2.16 GHz (Core Duo)
2.33 GHz (Core 2 Duo)
2.4 GHz (Santa Rosa)
2.5 GHz (Penryn)
2.6 GHz (Penryn)
2.6 GHz (Santa Rosa)
MacBook Pro 17" Unibody
2.53 GHz (Mid 2010)
2.66 GHz (Early 2009)
2.66 GHz (Mid 2010)
2.8 GHz (Mid 2009)
2.8 GHz (Mid 2010)
2.93 GHz (Early 2009)
3.06 GHz (Mid 2009)
MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Early 2011
2.2 GHz (Early 2011)
2.3 GHz (Early 2011)
MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Late 2011
2.4 GHz (Late 2011)
2.5 GHz (Late 2011)
MacBook Unibody Model A1278
2 GHz (A1278)
2.4 GHz (A1278)
MacBook Unibody Model A1342
2.26 GHz (A1342)
2.4 GHz (A1342)
MBP Retina 13"
2.7 GHz (Early 2015)
2.9 GHz (Early 2015)
3.1 Ghz (Early 2015)
PlayStation 3
CECHA
CECHB
CECHC
CECHE
CECHG
CECHH
CECHJ
CECHK
CECHL
CECHM
CECHP
CECHQ
PlayStation 3 Slim
CECH-20xx
CECH-21xx
CECH-25xx
PowerBook G4 Aluminum 12" 1-1.5 GHz
1 GHz
1.33 GHz
1.5 GHz
PowerBook G4 Aluminum 12" 867 MHz
867 MHz
PowerBook G4 Aluminum 15" 1-1.5 GHz
1 GHz
1.25 GHz
1.33 GHz
1.5 GHz (BT 1.1)
PowerBook G4 Aluminum 15" 1.5-1.67 GHz
1.5 GHz (BT 2.0)
1.67 GHz (Low-Res)
PowerBook G4 Aluminum 15" 1.67 GHz
1.67 GHz (High-Res)
PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1-1.67 GHz
1 GHz
1.33 GHz
1.5 GHz
1.67 GHz (Low-Res)
PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17" 1.67 GHz (High-Res)
1.67 GHz (High-Res)
Retina MacBook 2015
1.1 GHz (Early 2015)
1.2 GHz (Early 2015)
1.3 GHz (Early 2015)
Xbox 360
Falcon
Jasper
Opus
Xenon
Zephyr
Xbox 360 S
Valhalla
Xbox One
Original
 

Stories

My Problem

My 2009 iMac 24 inch 250 gig failed. I got it checkout with the Geek Squad at Best Buy and was told the Hard drive was the problem. So I bought a new iMac 21 inch, for about $1300.00. I was told about IFIXIT.com by the Geek who said NOT to try to use YOUTUBE because I could get some bad advise but to check out IFIXIT.com. I thought I would try to fix it with IFIXIT.com and save my old IMAC as a backup or resale it if I could fix it.

My Fix

The repair was SUPER easy for me! I ordered all the tools and the new 1T Hard drive from IFIXIT.com after I reviewed my exact IMAC on the IFIXIT.com website. I am fairly capable of taking electronics apart and repairing most simple items if I have the proper step by step instructions and photos as a guide.

The repair was so easy for me because I took my time, had a good clean working space, and allowed plenty of time to do the repair. I was not in any rush because I first got my new IMAC up and running great while I waited for the IFIXIT.com parts to arrive in two days. So now I have a new working IMAC with all my transferred data and programs.

Next I started the old IMAC repair after reviewing the instructions clearly two different times so I could understand the process well in my mind.

My Advice

As a word of advise. Take pictures of your repair before and after each IFIXIT.com step with your cell phone. Tag each picture with a step number by putting a "POST IT" note in each picture frame. Mark all wires with different colored electric tape so you can remember( i.e. red taped wire to red taped connector, blue taped wire to blue taped connector etc.)

Use your ipad or other computer to reference back to each step while making the repair. And finally use small plastic or foam drinking cups to put the tiny screws into marking each cup with a sharpie marker. Label each cup step # (?) (i.e. glass frame screws 10 screws or Hard Drive screws 4 screws.) Make sure you know which screws go where! For example long screws and short screws will go into different holes that look the same.

My Problem

2011 MacBook with screen of death

My Fix

I've never even opened a computer before, but now I think I'm Steve Jobs. My Mac has been passed down, so I don't qualify for the logic board replacement & didn't have a grand to fix it. So followed the directions on how to take it apart & reaplied thermal glue. (Also reflowed) Working now! Yay!

My Advice

I'm awesome

My Problem

need toolkit like repair business toolkit

My Fix

my video card not working give me black screen I open the card and clean it inside at arctic silver and put the card in the oven and put thermal paste I test the video card not working :) and I am very very happy with this toolkit Thank you ifixit :)

My Advice

if you need fix any electronic or console or smart phone I recommend ifixit toolkit repair awesome tool and easy tools :)

My Problem

A few weeks ago my Macbook Pro started malfunctioning and gave me a blank white screen with a flashing folder and a question mark. I was unsure what this was and after some online research I figured it may be my hard drive. I installed a new hard drive but my Mac wouldn’t see it after going into restore mode. Unsure why this was, I kept poking around online and found an article on the ifixit community boards. Now my second evaluation, I figured it may be the SATA cable and ordered one from ifixit. Sure enough my Mac booted as normal and I was able to keep using my hard drive.

Less than a week later after pulling off my bottom cover to repair the rubber feet and placing it back on. I flipped my notebook over to power up and nothing happened. Absolutely nothing. There was my powerless notebook staring at me. I strapped in my charger and the light on the charger connector started to flicker with a dim green light and going orange. After a long sigh, I researched some more. You have to ask questions, make phone calls, talk to friends and stay determined in getting answers.

Because of the financial challenges I’ve been facing, I had to make the less-costly decisions fast. I didn’t want to spend too much money in repairing my notebook and being without warranty can be costly when going to Apple. So, never allow yourself to feel intimidated by repairing your own devices. It can seem daunting but with the ifixit manuals online, you can do it yourself. There isn’t anything that anyone else can do that you cannot do yourself when utilizing ifixit’s online repair manuals. You can read them online, save them, print them and tape them across your wall in step-by-step order.

My Fix

After more research I ordered a DC in-board and a new battery, then I crossed my fingers. I was under pressure for some deadlines and needed my stuff by the next day. There was an issue with UPS delivery but Christopher Fernandes of ifixit stepped in to help me out. And what a great help that was.

After installation, I powered up my Macbook Pro but got the same result of the dim green blinking light in the charger. Deep breath here. I finally decided I was going to need to replace the logic board. After figuring out which one I was going to need by checking the serial number on the board, ifixit was out of stock. Fortunately, after emailing ifixit, Matt Zieminski got in touch with me to let me know there were some in stock, but were being processed to get on the site for sale.

After being notified via email through the ifixit “notify-me” feature, I made the purchase and was a tad concerned as to how I would replace the logic board and hoping not to damage anything during the procedure. With ifixit’s online instructions, the right tools, common sense and lots of patience, I was able to successfully replace my logic board. I’m not a professional, but when you believe in yourself in spite of your limitations, you can make the most challenging tasks result in success.

Once the repair was completed, I hit the power button and my Macbook Pro fired up like a champ! During this entire process I was touching base with Matt who was amazing in his replies and very encouraging.

Going into the second week after the repair I noticed some odd behavior with the battery I had previously ordered from ifixit and contacted Matt about it. After some trouble-shooting it was determined a replacement would be necessary. Matt emailed me the following day to let me know a replacement battery was going to be sent out with a return shipping label for my convenience.

This is the beauty of buying from ifixit and having the support and professionalism you may not get elsewhere. I’ve dealt with many online vendors that do not offer hassle-free solutions and it can become a nightmare and your time and money are both lost. With ifixit, you can rest assured that your time and purchases are just as important to them as they are to you.

My Advice

Time and again, I was blown away by the amazing customer service, the attention to my inquiries, and the empowered feeling of really sensing that I too was part of the ifixit team. With the success of the repair, it was great to be in touch with someone who was down to earth yet very knowledgeable about the process. The sense of empowerment is priceless and this is what ifixit does best; empowering others to stay in control of their devices through knowledge and independence. So remember, stay patient, stay the course, and above all, stay in control. You can do it yourself and feel amazingly satisfied with your own work. Truly, repair is noble.

My Problem

Exchanged the motherboard of a Macbook Air - late 2010. The Apple repair shop in Norway said the motherboard had to be replaced and asked for approximately 1000 USD to do it :-(

My Fix

The exchange seemed to work out nicely with a motherboard bought on eBay. But the Macbook Air is still dead. Have given up now after a loss of 200-300 USD. Following the procedure provided by iFixit was fun however - excellent instruction material.

My Advice

Purchase a new Macbook Air up front and do not attempt to repair it yourself. Do not purchase electronics spare parts on eBay. :-( I have now a brand new Macbook air and have attached the old SSHD enclosed in an OWC Envoy (OWCMAU3BENVOY) unit via an USB cable.

My Problem

Macbook Late 2008 Aluminium was a bit too old and when I tried to run XBMC kodi and Eclipse Luna. The temperature gauge pro always pop that my CPU temperature is getting hotter. I decide to replace the heatsink and the thermal paste as well.

My Fix

It did not go smooth even I had the iFixit pro tech tool kit. I think when I did the first attempt which is removing the logic board I was too excited to use the tool kit so I was really in a hurry. It happen the thing that I don't like to happen which stripping the screw :( it was a bit of a struggle but after using different type of approach of getting stripped screw out I solve it using a rotary tool kit with the help of screw extractor from Ifixit took me for about a month to solve it.

My Advice

The first advice I want to give is to be patient on small screws.

Think everything is easy and entertaining and don't give up when you see struggle. I would like you to think it this way first attempt is not always good but the more you do it the more it you get the hang of it.

My Problem

The yellow light of death on the ps3 wouldnt let me use my sp3

My Fix

Easy as cake, and MJ's instructions where exelent! ... nto to mention how easy she is on the eyes.

My Advice

Makesure you use the right driver for the screw, it was easy to strip the bolt holding the HDD casing, but it all went without a hitch after that

My Problem

Recently, I augmented the RAM and put a new SSD hard drive into my old late 2006 core 2 duo white mac book.

I heard a guy at a computer store say that the best thing you could do was to clean out your computer, but I didn't believe him. Anyhow, I realised my computer was definitely overheating when it started shutting down from using Netflix and bugging when watching video on the web.

So I did a bit of research, and decided to try cleaning the whole thing out and see if it made a difference (it did).

My Fix

The repair went very well, thanks to Ifixit guides and various Youtube videos.My macbook was really very dusty inside (even had alot of dog hair!) And it felt just like when you clean your kitchn our your car after you let the dirt accumulate for a while. Definitely ssomething I recommend. Also it was alot of fun to get to know and see everypart of my computer like that. It works much better now, I recommend this operation to anyone who has an aging computer, makes a world of difference (it works like new now!) It does not over heat anymore, which makes the fan less noisy, so it works faster, smoother and is very silent.

My Advice

You'll need to be informed to do this, you don't want to mess anything up. It took me a lot of time before I felt confident to do this, especially because I depend on my comouter for work and studies. I did not want to have to buy a new macbook in a hurry! Also, do not hesitate to spend a little more money to get better quality stuff. For example, I first got the cheapest screwdrivers I could find. But they rapidly stripped the gentle screws in my macbook, and made taking it apart a drag. So I bought a better quality set, and had no more problems. I also strongly suggest to clean the heatsink and the fan completely, especially if your computer is as old as mine. I am pretty sure replacing the cooling paste and cleaning out the heatsink and fan was what made a major difference.

So basically, to those of you who are wondering wether you should buy a new macbook or try to fix your old one: fix youre old one! If it has a good cpu, it is good to go! That is pretty much what it boils down to. The core 2 duo intel cpu is very decent, and will allow you to do all Internet-word processing tasks you need to do. If you are going to take it apart, might as well also install SSD hard drive and RAM, which will also greatly increase performance.

Also, install an app such as Istat which will allow you to monitor your CPU temperature and regulate fan speed (this is super important). That will keep you informed on what is going on. Check the specs of your cpu on intel or amd website, and make sure it stays well below it's maximum official heat limit (intel core 2 duo can reach 100 degrees, and I realised it went up to 90 really fast when multi tasking). You can do this by augmenting fan speed and reducing multi tasking when you see it is working too hard.

This is a bit like your car. If you drive with the RPM at maximum all the time, it is going to overheat.

Good luck! (and trust Ifixit)

My Problem

My hard drive crashed. I bought a new one, but when I put it in the notebook it wasn't being recognised. However it was recognised when plugged into a USB port. I diagnosed the problem as being the hard disk cable.

My Fix

Followed the instructions exactly and was done in 15 minutes.

My Advice

Stay cool. This kind of minor surgery on your Macbook is really easy and can be done by nearly everyone with the iFixit guides.

My Problem

Replace logic board; replace HDD with SSD; move HDD to optical bay; upgrade RAM.

My Fix

All in all, everything went well. Considering that this was my first repair ever, it took me much longer (4-6 hours) than indicated (40-60 mins). Also, during the repair I had to watch a couple of video tutorials on YouTube, because sometimes the guides alone weren't sufficient.

My Advice

To anyone who's going to do this repair, make sure you also get a 5.5 mm Phillips screwdriver. During the repair I came across a step which required this particular screwdriver, but I didn't have one since it wasn't mentioned on the list of required tools of the logic board replacement guide.

Furthermore, there is a Phillips #1 Screwdriver listed as a required tool for this repair, but I didn't use it since I managed to carry out that particular step using a Phillips #00 Screwdriver instead.

Also, at the end of the logic board replacement guide it says: "To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order". This is slightly misleading, simply because in doing so you would omit a very important step, namely to apply new thermal paste first. Therefore, I would advise to either include or refer to the 'Applying Thermal Paste' guide at the end of the logic board replacement guide.