MacBook Pro Unibody 13" and 15" MagSafe DC-In Board

$24.95

Product code: IF163-011
Apple Part #: 661-5217, 661-5235, 922-9307, 820-2565-A

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MacBook Pro Unibody 13" and 15" MagSafe DC-In Board

$24.95

Product code: IF163-011
Apple Part #: 661-5217, 661-5235, 922-9307, 820-2565-A

Product Overview

Practice safe charging!

Connects wall adapter power to logic board. Safe magnetic connection prevents damage to laptop caused by tripping over the power cord.

Compatibility

Identify your Mac

  • All Mid 2009 13" Unibody MacBook Pros
  • All Mid 2010 13" Unibody MacBook Pros
  • All Early 2011 13" Unibody MacBook Pros
  • All Late 2011 13" Unibody MacBook Pros
  • All Mid 2012 13" Unibody MacBook Pros
  • All Mid 2009 15" Unibody MacBook Pros
  • All Mid 2010 15" Unibody MacBook Pros
  • All Early 2011 15" Unibody MacBook Pros
  • All Late 2011 15" Unibody MacBook Pros
  • All Mid 2012 15" Unibody MacBook Pros

Product Details

  • 13" Model: A1278
  • 15" Models: Mid 2009 to Mid 2012

$24.95 New

 
 

Condition:

New

Warranty:

One year warranty

$14.95 Used

 
 

Condition:

Used, fully tested

Warranty:

One year warranty

Add to Cart
 

Replacement Guides

MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011

Difficulty: Difficult

MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011

Difficulty: Difficult

MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009

Difficulty: Difficult

MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010

Difficulty: Difficult

MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012

Difficulty: Difficult

MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Early 2011

Difficulty: Difficult

MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2011

Difficulty: Difficult

MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010

Difficulty: Difficult

MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2012

Difficulty: Difficult

 

Compatibility

MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011
2.3 GHz (Early 2011)
2.7 GHz (Early 2011)
MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011
2.4 GHz (Late 2011)
2.8 GHz (Late 2011)
MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009
2.26 GHz (Mid 2009)
2.53 GHz (Mid 2009)
MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010
2.4 GHz (Mid 2010)
2.66 GHz (Mid 2010)
MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2012
2.5 GHz (Mid 2012)
2.9 GHz (Mid 2012)
MacBook Pro 15" Unibody 2.53 GHz Mid 2009
2.53 GHz (Mid 2009)
MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Early 2011
2 GHz (Early 2011)
2.2 GHz (Early 2011)
2.3 GHz (Early 2011)
MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2011
2.2 GHz (Late 2011)
2.4 GHz (Late 2011)
2.5 GHz (Late 2011)
MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2009
2.66 GHz (Mid 2009)
2.8 GHz (Mid 2009)
3.06 GHz (Mid 2009)
MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010
2.4 GHz (Mid 2010)
2.53 GHz (Mid 2010)
2.66 GHz (Mid 2010)
2.8 GHz (Mid 2010)
MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2012
2.3 GHz (Mid 2012)
2.6 GHz (Mid 2012)
2.7 GHz (Mid 2012)
 

Stories

My Problem

The DC connector don't work well and I decide to change it

My Fix

The repair was pretty hard for me but I was able to change the connector but now the mic don't work :( I think that is broken

My Advice

You have to pay attention to the mic that is very fragile and also the trackpad cable it is very hard to fit into its connector, and in my opinion riassembly it is harder than disassembly

My Problem

I was given this MacBook Pro for parts as Apple said it required a logic board. The owner poured a cup and a half of water out of the keyboard...and bought a new MacBook Air. It booted but had obvious faults. The logic board looked fine but the Mag-safe board didn't.

My Fix

The new Mag-safe board arrived in Australia 3 days after ordering...and was fitted. The battery charge light went orange. The battery charged fully and the light went green. The NVM was reset and Yosemite loaded. I'm very happy with the results.

My Advice

The Mag-safe board was designed by Apple to save the logic board from damage...which it did admirably. I was pleased to see iFixit supply a genuine part. The repair was easy after reading the guides. Good quality tools make all the difference.

My Problem

I have a Macbook Pro (early 2011) I spilled coffee on the keyboard. Shortly after, the battery would not recharge and then eventually all power was lost. I cleaned logic board, performed a prm reset, etc..That didn't work....so I replaced the battery that I got from another vendor...that didn't work..I returned the battery with full refund.

My Fix

Then I went to the IFIXIT website and read some trouble shooting posts from other members. Replacing the MagSafe circuit board was, I found, the next step to take...So I ordered the tools along with the MagSafe board....Received it in mail in 3 days. I watched the IFIXIT video on how to install this part and it was very thorough (especially the heads-up warning on when to be very careful on some steps). Installed it with my original battery and hooked the MagSafe up.....turned the power and VOILA... it powered up with orange light showing on Magsafe and recharged the battery giving way to green light on Magsafe....All systems GO!!!! Thank You IFIXIT

My Advice

If you have any problems with your Mac, keep it simple and go to the IFIXIT first...it's a powerful and in-depth resource.

My Problem

My MagSafe charging port began malfunctioning a while ago, only charging with the cord arranged just so, audibly arcing, and getting extremely hot. It actually ruined a couple chargers, but rather than replace it the Apple Store kept giving me chargers and said I would have to leave my computer for a while to have it actually fixed (which I couldn't do). So eventually I found this website, ordered the part and tools, and did it myself. It's like a new machine now.

My Fix

I'm moderately handy, though not with computers, but it went pretty smoothly. I wrapped the different screw types from each step in masking tape and labeled them, which took the guesswork out of reassembly. Those M-T-W-T-F pill holders are recommended too, which would save unwrapping tiny screws from tape. I think it took about an hour, including upgrading the RAM.

My Advice

One snag that I didn't expect was that when I was ready to lift the logic board out it wouldn't move. It was stuck to the plastic sheeting below it. Once I got it out, which tore the sheeting a little, I saw that it was because the UPC label on a component of the logic board had adhered to the sheeting due to heat. Tearing the sheeting had zero effect on the functioning of the computer, but be careful: over by the fan it is printed with circuits which you don't want to damage. So just a heads up. Go slow and don't bend the logic board as you peel the sheeting off with the spudger. I would recommend a note in the iFixit guide on this situation. In general, the guide was fantastic.

My Problem

My computer would no longer charge, but the charger was working in other computers.

My Fix

I was originally told it was the logic board, which would have costs $100s more than just the left I/O board. It was an extremely easy repair when you follow the step by step guide.

My Advice

Don't be afraid of someone telling you that you will mess something up. I am not tech savvy at all and it was extremely simple for me to complete!

My Problem

Had a liquid spill, machine was toast. After getting the logic board up-and-running, the magsafe board wouldn't do anything. No amount of cajoling worked.

My Fix

A good, inexpensive replacement that did the job.

My Advice

Do the repair, buy the right parts.

nledez's Story Photo #407232

My Problem

My DC connecter was "burned" on my Macbook pro.

My Fix

Buy replacement on ifixit.

Disassemble MBP with ifixit guide.

Replace part, de reassemble it.

My Advice

Be carefull about motherboard alignment and connectors hole (USB, ethernet, ...).

I need to reopen MBP to realign it.

My Problem

After spending a cool $250 to get my top case replaced by Apple (the keyboard kicked the bucked 2 months out of AppleCare - go figure!), my newly-repaired laptop refused to charge my battery. It worked fine on DC power, but the battery just slowly drained until it was dead.

I tried multiple chargers, a SMC reset, unplugging the battery, nothing worked. The 'Genius' at the Apple store told me that I'd need a logic board replacement, and blamed the fact that it wouldn't charge on me replacing the optical drive with a Data Doubler. He also denied the existence of any components on the logic board that could be replaced, insisting that I'd 'shorted out' the board and that was the reason for it not working.

I suspected a bad MagSafe DC-in board. The part was only $35 on iFixit, and since the worst that could happen was that I'd have a non-functional computer, which I already had, I decided to give the DIY repair a go.

My Fix

The repair was SHOCKINGLY easy. It was described as 'Difficult' on the iFixit site, which I assume is a fair categorization considering the potential damage that one could do. I have a fair amount of mechanical aptitude, but no experience repairing computers. I made sure to constantly ground myself to the frame, keep careful track of the screws, and move with patience.

Once I got the logic board off, I decided to try my hand at replacing the thermal paste application, since it's notoriously bad on these models. It was a little finicky, but all ended well.

Reassembly was slightly harder than disassembly, due to connectors wanting to get trapped under the logic board. Getting the keyboard ribbon back into the ZIF socket was the hardest part of the whole endeavor.

Removing the old DC-In board revealed the reason for my computer's charging problem: When the Apple techs reassembled my computer, they sandwiched one of the DC-in board's wires in a screw hole. The insulating material had worn through, and the exposed metal of the wire was short-circuiting the board. TOTALLY an Apple error. What are the odds I would have heard about this if I'd taken it in for the suggested logic board replacement?

After everything was re-assembled, I plugged it in and got a magical green/amber light from the charger! But when I pressed the power button, nothing happened. I let it charge for a while, tried again and, nothing. I tried reconnecting the keyboard ribbon, but to no avail. I figured that I'd ACTUALLY shorted something out this time, and that I was going to have to send it back. Sadness ensued, and my feelings of victory quickly faded.

Then, like Lazarus risen from the dead, I heard the sound of the startup chime! Success! As it turns out, the battery was just 100% depleted, and needed a bit to charge. I booted it up and everything was good as new!

My Advice

You can do all of these repairs yourself if you know what you're getting into and you're patient.

Go slowly. Read all of the instructions (AND THE COMMENTS) twice before you begin. Use an ice cube tray to keep track of the screws. Believe in yourself. Eat your vegetables.

Be grateful for iFixit! It's a great resource or all of us!

My Problem

I splashed the tiniest splash of hard cider from a bottle I almost knocked over but grabbed at the last moment. The laptop seemed fine... until about 12 hours later, when it ran out of battery. Dead, dead.

My Fix

I got the clue it might be the MagSafe board from a few blog posts here and there, I took the whole thing apart using ifixit.com's excellent slideshow how-tos; I gave every bit of the circuit boards a toothbrush bath in rubbing alcohol; I swapped out the MagSafe board... it's alive! Probably saved me $600. And while I was swapping the drives between this and my older laptop, I accidentally fixed that one's overheating problem! (I'll be ordering a new internal AirPort card soon). Thanks, IFIXIT! I fixed it!

My Advice

Always use a sippy cup. Always.

My Problem

2 outer dc-in pins were black, and would only charge sporadically with a lot of fiddling of connectors

My Fix

Took about an hour and a half all up, first time removing the motherboard, and the guide is pretty much spot-on. Had two issues, one with the keyboard connector not seating correctly, second is still unresolved dead/dull spot on screen. Haven't worked out if it was from too much pressure from removing the fan screws or if the screen connector isn't seated properly again. Have pulled it out and tried again a few times but still there.

My Advice

Someone mentioned in the comments that removing the fan may not be necessary. If you can get away without pulling it off the board I'd say leave it.

Also because you have to pull out almost every screw inside the machine, I found printing off the guide and taping each screw to the picture of each step helped for putting the machine back together.