Use this guide if your new display assembly comes with the earpiece speaker, front camera assembly, and LCD shield plate already installed. You'll simply remove the old display assembly and transfer the home/Touch ID sensor to the new display assembly.

If your replacement display does not include those components, follow this more in-depth guide instead.

In either case, the original home/Touch ID sensor must be transferred to the new display in order for Touch ID to function.

Video Overview

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase - Reply

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing - Reply

  2. If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

      • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

    • If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.

    In case of broken glass you can make the suction cup much more effective by covering the glass with a broad piece of translucent tape which eliminate air leakage through cracks in the glass.

    lionno1 - Reply

    Il n’est pas nécessaire de mettre beaucoup de scotch.

    Au contraire plus vous mettez de scotch, plus il y aura de défauts et la ventouse ne collera pas.

    Une bande bien positionnée suffit.

    Chloé Bossuette - Reply

    I’ve used hot glue on low setting to remove all types of crystals. The hot glue will release with a little iso alcohol. No damage to glass or plastic faced crystals or screens. Use a narrow piece of wood as a prying handle.

    Emilio Gonzalez - Reply

    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    ¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?

    joscarlos91 - Reply

    It is a process. I heated the lower area of the phone with a hair dryer on and off (1min each) about 3-4 times before I was able to get the provided tool in.

    Dan - Reply

    I suggest using a hairdryer. I used the iOpener for maybe 30 mins to no avail. However, when I used the hairdryer the screen came of much quicker.

    Michael - Reply

    • Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button.

      • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    The glass is completely cracked and the suction cup doesn't work because it gets air in between. any tip?

    Display is glued and doesn't come off.

    support - Reply

    A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)

    Mimic44444 - Reply

    Last comment works well. Thank you !

    Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.

    Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.

    Arni Benediktsson - Reply

    • Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

      • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

    This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.

    jessica harlow - Reply

    I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.

    mcr4u2 -

    Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain

    Jordon Johnson - Reply

    Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful

    Jordon Johnson - Reply

    This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/

    Chris Gallego - Reply

    Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.

    Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.

    amberron - Reply

    I second Jessica’s January 8 comment.  I just finished a battery replacement on my iPhone 7 and this step was the most nerve-wracking part.  I ended up using a sharper (but not razor-sharp) metal object to get this done with confidence (tried the spudger and guitar pick but not thin enough).  The tool I used was the exact duplicate of what iFixIt calls “iSesamo Opening Tool” in their tool selection.  I did the heat up with a hair dryer (after attempts with an iOpener hot pad) and the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).  I actually used the metal tool for most of the perimeter as well, just don’t go deep (you don’t need to).  Notes: my display was intact, and I was able to pull up fairly hard with a glass screen protector still on it.

    Ted - Reply

    This is frustrating. I heated the lower edge with a hair dryer for 1 min on high about 3-4 times. In between each heat cycle, I rocked the suction cup back and forth. I was eventually able to create significant space for the provided tool. This takes a lot of patience. Once the space was created, it was very easy to remove the screen.

    Dan - Reply

    use a fingernail, then the blue tool, then the spudger

    Therese Peffer - Reply

    The iOpener worked just fine for me. Had to keep it on for a few minutes. I also was able to get the suction cup seal right close to the edge, over top of the home button for added leverage. Used the blue tool and transitioned to the spudger. Slow, steady pressure…and patience. ;)

    johnhall918 - Reply

    • Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone.

    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.

    Add Comment

    • Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch.

    • Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.

    Add Comment

    • Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device.

    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    • Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    Add Comment

    • Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

    • Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

    do not pull up pull sideways it will brake

    Riley Patterson - Reply

    Made this mistake

    rachael.grime - Reply

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    • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

    Add Comment

    • Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place.

    • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.

    Add Comment

    • Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

      • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    I just broke the cable to the battery!

    No Bama - Reply

    same dude im such a freak lol omg haha

    Aiden Polaski - Reply

    Are there replacements ribbons?

    Blax Bently - Reply

    Has anyone else noticed very small squares of rubber with a circle cut through it (I think they fall off into the phone when dismantling)?

    I just replaced my screen and worked out that these are actually a wee pocket that slips over the pentalobe screw holes on the replacement screen. I’m not sure if it’s an additional water resisting mechanism or if it’s to add additional traction for the screws

    richarddillon - Reply

    Thanks, I was wondering where those were from!

    Albert -

    • Remove four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower connector bracket, of the following lengths:

      • Three 1.2 mm screws

      • One 2.4 mm screw

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

    Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve - Reply

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst - Reply

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright - Reply

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader - Reply

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 - Reply

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos - Reply

    Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

    Stephen Babbage - Reply

    • Remove the lower connector bracket.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin - Reply

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno - Reply

    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

    Add Comment

    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

    • To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva - Reply

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h - Reply

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson - Reply

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer - Reply

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro - Reply

    • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

    Add Comment

  4. When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley - Reply

    • Remove the four Y000 screws securing the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor:

      • One 1.1 mm screw

      • Three 1.3 mm screws

    Why is the screw over top of the home button so difficult to get out… has anyone else experienced this..? This is twice now I've struggled to get that screw

    Brandon - Reply

    The screw to the left holding the heatshield is never mentioned in this guide

    Beerbo - Reply

    No reason to touch that screw unless you’re removing the shield—in which case, this step instructs you to remove it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    So I stripped the screw furthest to the left, how can i possibly remove it now? Can I just buy a new LCD shield and home bracket button and screw and will that work just fine on the new screen replacement? this stripped screw of mine is not coming out

    Bryan Ferrer - Reply

    That should work, as long as you can still get the home button/sensor out without damage. For removing a stripped screw this size, I’d probably try supergluing it to the driver—or else just drill the top of the screw off and then remove the bracket, leaving the screw shaft embedded in the old display. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I used the same driver for all of these screws. Had to apply a lot of pressure before trying to unscrew it and it was fine.

    jessica harlow - Reply

    This is wrong, the size you need is Y00 for the 1.1mm screws and Y000 for the 1.3mm one.

    Robert Clark - Reply

    The heads on those screws are identical. I’ve never had any trouble using a Y000 for all of them. Use whatever works for you I guess.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I’ve managed to strip the screw on the right hand side - not the far right, just right of the home button. Any ideas on how to get it out without glue (I don’t have any)

    Christie Ellen - Reply

    My screwdriver is too big to get out the screws

    Coolinee Kerman - Reply

    My eyesight isn’t what it used to be. That said, the replacement screen that arrived already had screws in the two outside positions. It took me a minute to figure this out when I was trying to install the home button. I couldn’t figure out why the screws weren’t going in. I thought the holes were filled or something… Nope. screws. Took them out and used them.. all good.

    Critter - Reply

    My 7 had quite a bit of loctite holding these bad boys on. I stripped the one to the right of the home button and after using many “sentence enhancers” I was able to remove it using good tweezers and quite a bit of hand strength. I think that heating up the screws here is not an option because the cables lie underneath the plate and would probably get damaged from the amount of heat needed to loosen the loctite. Be patient here, and maybe have spare Y000 drivers because you may damage your driver getting these screws out.

    P Park - Reply

    If your having trouble. I recommend you guys to buy the Y00o driver at amazon. It look golden. It works very will .

    Jonathan curz - Reply

    Read instead of: “Remove the four Y000 screws”. “Remove the four Philips 00 screws”. Thats the case what occurs to me.

    Henk - Reply

    • Remove the bracket that secures the home/Touch ID sensor.

    Add Comment

    • Pry under the left edge of the home button cable connector to disconnect it from its socket.

      • If the entire connector begins to flip up without separating, press down on the cable at the top edge of the connector with the flat of your spudger, while simultaneously prying up the left edge of the connector. Be very careful not to damage the cable or connector, or you will permanently disable the sensor.

    Well, I just damaged the home button connector in step 31. It is completely off the cable. What now? Can I buy this home button?

    LadyTech - Reply

    I think you can not do it because your phone is not identify for new cable.

    Ali Alsaed - Reply

    Best thing to do here is to NOT pry up on the connector, but to insert the pry tool on the left side until the connector is dislodged.

    Oscar Moreno - Reply

    use one pry tool to hold down, another to pull up.

    Christa - Reply

    I did it. :-( i broke it

    Peter Keller - Reply

    • Carefully pry up the underlying connector and move it out of the way of the home/Touch ID cable.

      • It's very easy to damage your iPhone during this step. Work slowly and take care where you pry with your tool. If you damage the Touch ID hardware, it can only be replaced by Apple.

      • If the connector doesn't pry up easily, use a hair dryer or iOpener to heat and soften the adhesive securing the connector, and then try again.

      • Don't try to detach the connector completely—simply flip it up slightly so that the underlying home/Touch ID sensor cable can be removed.

    Make sure that you fold this cable out when fitting your replacement before you fasten the shield back down. I didn’t but managed to loosen 2 screws on the shield to get the cable out.

    chris_sawyer - Reply

    • Heating the area around the home/Touch ID sensor will help soften the adhesive holding its delicate cable in place, making it easier to remove safely.

    • Flip the display assembly over. Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the display for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    Add Comment

    • Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel.

    It cannot be stressed enough that this is the one part of this repair that you can’t screw up. Anything else you’ll deal with during this repair can be easily replaced (The screen, and the sensor/microphone/camera assembly). Tearing this cable means an expensive trip to the apple store. or a very unhappy customer if you’re doing this for someone. Heat is your friend. I don’t even use a spudger or a guitar pick for this one, I use a new playing card to pull this up. Even with the card, you have to be careful. The edge of the playing card can nick the cable if you’re not careful to get it under the ribbon cable. If the adhesive isn’t soft enough for the card to get it up, apply more heat. Again, you can’t screw this step up. It’s all or nothing.

    Spartan99 - Reply

    • Remove the home/Touch ID sensor assembly by lifting it through the front side of the display.

    • To reinstall, first feed the cable through the hole in the front of the display.

    • Your replacement part may come with an extra Y000 screw already installed right of the Home Button. Remove the unnecessary screw so that you can reinstall the home button bracket.

    True to this picture, the home button can only be removed (and put back in place) through the front of the LCD assembly.

    Talon - Reply

    Very good comment Talon. That was the first thing I was looking for here. There should be a bullet point in step 24 - Carefully remove home button from front of display being careful not to damage cable.

    Tracey - Reply

    Had an issue when putting the screen back on, the side where the cables attach would not sit flush. At first I thought the cables were pushing the screen up. Turned out to be the battery cable shield was just a fraction too far down toward home button. After loosening screws, nudging it up slightly and screwing back in, the screen sat flush as it should. In case anyone else has same issue.

    jbarry - Reply

    Is there anything special about reassembling the "home" button ?

    I tried several times with several buttons but none works.

    Lambiel - Reply


To reassemble your device, reapply the display adhesive and follow these instructions in reverse order.

344 other people completed this guide.

Evan Noronha

Member since: 02/05/2015

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176 Guides authored


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When putting the screen back on will the device loose it's water-resistant properties?

Joseph - Reply

Wondering this too.

Draydan -

It will for sure lose it's water-resistant properties. So, please replace the water-resistant adhesive before assembly.

Jojo -

Yes, but you can buy a new replacement seal for a few bucks. However, it is extremely thin and very sticky so its almost impossible to do it right the first time (imagine placing a needle thin sized rubber band covered in glue around the tiny ledge you phone screen sits on). I would suggest you buy two because it is likely you’ll need a second shot at it…because if any part gets misplaced and sticks to the wrong spot, it will not come off, and that “sticky rubber band” turns into this horrible stringy tar/chewing gum ring that is impossible to manipulate…fair warning… it will most likely be pretty water resistant even if you don’t add a new seal to it… its not a waterproof phone in the first place :)

jaicdc -

Yes it will lose the water-resistant abilities. It is very hard to seal it back to it's original state.

Alec - Reply

Is there any supplier that sells the original adhesive for the edge of the phone so we can make it better? Or do we have to just wing it with some cut double sided tape etc?

Grant Ormsby - Reply

The short answer is yes, there are suppliers who carry the adhesive. It can be difficult to obtain and may be tempting to go for a replacement from eBay or somewhere similar, but I advise to steer clear of unverified vendors. If you can get one from iFixit, I strongly recommend that you use them - especially if you're only purchasing one for a DIY project. If iFixit doesn't have them, you can get these from Union Repair as one option.

Joshua -

We do offer the replacement adhesive if you need it—I wouldn't recommend trying to wing it. By the way, the phone will work fine without replacing the adhesive (it just won't be as waterproof), so if you don't have the adhesive on hand, it's perfectly okay to finish your repair and close up your iPhone, and then replace the adhesive at a later date.

Jeff Suovanen -

The adhesive is sold here but its sold out, you can find it on eBay tho

Hernandez5827 - Reply

I am curious about the home button transfer? transfer from old cracked to new screen and finger print will work? also I have read online forums using 3rd party screens for gens i6/i6s/i7 and doing an iOS update will brick and or make the finger print scanner unusable? Can anyone confirm?


hawaii4vr - Reply

The issue with the Home Button not functioning and "bricking" the device was not from 3rd party displays. It was from shops not transferring the Home Button to the new assembly. During restore or update the device would deliver Error 53. Apple has since modified iOS to not do this, so it is no longer the concern that it was. As long as there is not anything wrong with your Home Button, it will be fully functional on your device after the new display is installed.

Joshua -

Keep in mind that while you are safe using third party screens, using a non-original home button will result in losing TouchID functionality.

Evan Noronha -

That home button cable is a bit tricky. I came at it from the top side of the home button with the pointy end of my spudger, and managed to pull up all of the adhesive. otherwise, this was a pretty straight forward swap.

Bradley Breedlove - Reply

Anybody having issues with the replacemnt screen flex putting pressure on back of the lcd when its put back together? I don't know if its a defect because its my first time!

Astralzombie - Reply

Thats quite easy. Thats the ‘block’ on the bottom left of the screen. Make sure it aligns nicely.

Beerbo -

This guide feels incomplete without the disassembly of the smaller parts on the display assembly.

Sverre Siggerud - Reply

I agree since these guides are intended for newer repair techs or DIY people that should have been added in

Don -

I agree with @Sverre Siggerud

gra_allax -

I agree it's missing a large portion of the work

Gaspard Leon -

tbh this is one of the worst guides on here. It goes about 30% of the way into the whole job. No instructions an removing backplate/shield, camera assembly or home button which are by far the trickier parts of this job. 4/10 could do much better!

gra_allax - Reply

There are other guides that gives the directions on removing the other parts just have to find the guide for each part ...the guide for removing shield plate pretty much covers it all

Jaye -

I replaced the screen of iPhone 7 , after using couple of hours its opening & closing apps by itself .i restore it still didn't work if I restart it will work couple of hours then start again same issue .

Malik Adam - Reply

Tip for anyone who is moving the home button to a replacement screen. The cable is stuck on the screen pretty good with adhesive, I found that an easy way to get it off is to use a very very small flathead screwdriver (I used the smallest one in the iFixit tool kit) and carefully pry the cable off starting where the little plastic pin pokes through the hole in the cable. Came right off and the adhesive was still stuck to the cable. Just don't puncture the cable.

Evan Smith - Reply


WHO CARES if you break the plastic clips? You're replacing the screen which has NEW plastic clips.

STEP 14. DO NOT lay it down like an open book. The cables are likely to tear if you do this because they are very short and snug. I recommend placing a heavy object behind the screen to keep it propped up/open like a laptop screen.

STEP 15. CLEARLY IT IS NOT laying down like an open book. In fact not until step 19 does it look like it's laying flat like an open book.

To the above comments. Send it to Apple if you want the WATERPROOFING to stay intact. Of course you'll likely get a refurbished phone in return. Here's a novel idea. Don't get your phone (or any other electronics for that matter) wet.

paul bunions - Reply

Thanks for the info. I was just thinking about Step 14 and if the cables would be long (or strong) enough. You answered my question ;-)

Clems -

You're right that broken clips might not matter if you're just replacing the screen—however, the warning in step 9 is necessary because this step (opening the phone) is a prerequisite for all iPhone repairs (not just the screen). I agree with you about the cables being too short in some cases to lay the display flat, and I've deleted the note about laying it down like an open book. Thanks for your comments!

Jeff Suovanen -

@joshua, thanks for the link, that i much cheaper then in the Netherlands.

Btw how is the quality of the lcd screens for example?

Ron Schuts - Reply

To whom ever posted this tutorial,

I think you explained well.Some people always have some type of negative feedback. There are other tutorials for removing the shield and etc. Just do a little research people. Also if warnings are put in place you best believe someone made that mistake. If you all have a problem with his tutorial you all go out your way and make one. Keep up the good work!

Kaila Freeman - Reply

When I took off the home button, a small black square rubber piece fell out. while prying off the cable.

Can anyone tell me where this is supposed to go when I put the home button back on.

Joe in PA - Reply

That is the button seal. Goes between the front screen and the button.

122654 -

You guys need to provide some instruction on the removal of the home button, its changed since the older phones.

Andrew spoelstra - Reply

I work in a phone repair shop. We have had an on/ off problem for the 7/7+. Sometimes if you unplug the camera from the board and attach it to the new screen then back to the board it will boot loop. So we've taken the precaution to not unplug it. Do you know if this is a software or hardware problem? If so, which part of the software/hardware should we be more careful about when repairing?

The only way to stop the boot loop is to unplug the FF camera which puts the customer out of a selfie camera and makes the repair redundant.


Marsha Brady - Reply

I am experiencing this right now. I am currently trying to restore the phone for like the dozenth time when I came across this. As soon as it’s done this time I’m going to try unclipping the front camera assembly. Have you tried getting the phone out of the boot loop and then clipping the earpiece assembly in while it’s on the home screen? I know we aren’t supposed to be playing with the innards while its on, but desperate times…

Tom Kavarnic -

Sometimes--- there is a pressure point underneath the LCD on the right side of the screen when closing the iPhone 7 (where the bracket covers the cables under the LCD, not the proxy connector). It's been hit and miss. Some repairs can be done and there is no pressure point, then for others, it seems the chip is sitting on top of the metal bracket and causes a pressure point when closed. Has anyone else had this issue? What have you done to make sure it's not an issue 100% of the time?

aqnguyen87 - Reply

The pressure point is because the chip is moved a little bit upwards to the phone when changing to a new screen. Try to relocate the chip 0,5mm-1mm further down on the screen and this will fix the pressure point occurring when closing the screen to the phone!

Erling Andre Saethervik - Reply

please help

i have replaced the screen with another working screen and i opened the screen very slowly as i should without touching the right side cables of the screen than i removed the bracket from the bottom of the lcd connectors and removed the battery connector first than the lcd connectors and than removed the top connector by the camera…the problem is im having a black screen i reconnected the old screen and now same issues…what did i do wrong and how to fix this black screen…what could have i done…if i removed the battery connectors first….

sam - Reply

Pk so i replaced and the screen and now working fine..but fromt camera does notvwant to work even after i changed thefkex cable…no bent no issues…what is the issue…i did reset still no front camera i did reboot power+volume down still same issue what did i miss??

sam - Reply

What is the function of the 1.1 mm screw located in the plate securing the touch I/D sensor in position, the screw is located directly in the centre of the touch I/D sensor.


Neil Rodgers - Reply

It holds the touchid sensor in place. Duh :p

Beerbo -

How To fix black screen when I touch home button screen will not light up and phone tells me to enter password

jordansm80 - Reply

You really should have included the camera as well,

gocaps25 - Reply

I am having issues with the home button swap.

I have replaced a damage screen from another damaged iPhone.

One iPhone had hardware issues that made the phone basically useless (no service, ever, could not restore firmware from iTunes) this device had a perfect screen.

The other iPhone had a shattered screen.

So I am replacing the shattered screen with the screen from the other iPhone, and swapped the home buttons.

The phone with the now new (uncracked) screen doesn't recognize the home button at all. Nor does it tell me that I have the wrong home button when I purposely connect the wrong home button.

I took the same home button and put it with the other iPhone and the iPhone rejects it (point is, it detects the home button). The other iPhone doesn't even detect it.

cadearmstrong - Reply

Everything went well and smooth on installing screen, but when I started testing my iPhone it seems it has some sort of interference when using the front and rear recording camera. All my recordings come out with a pretty loud static and clicking noise on the recording . Is it possible that the screen is interfering with my Front and rear camera mic camera? Can someone help me out please?

lmatiasjr - Reply

Worked really well, make sure that you really heat up the home button adhesive, if you lose 1 or 2 screws per bracket, it’ll still be ok BTW

Coolinee Kerman - Reply

Bought a replacement kit that not only left out the splunger, but gave my three unmarked screwdrivers. (all I needed was the pentalum ) stripped the screws, not even super glue could get them out. Utter failure .

MajorCouillon - Reply

Wanted to reply to my own text.My failed attempt had nothing to do with these in-depth directions , it had to do with my failure to purchase tools from the correct company.this sight has helped me repair my ps3 and offered countless other insights. I was just in one of those moods I’m sure most of us can relate to. Oh, and , excuse me while I do this….. AAAPPPPLLE!! Grrr

MajorCouillon -

Does automatic brightness work for you after replacing the screen with the iFixit part? Mine was working properly with the original screen, but auto-brightness doesn’t seem to work with the iFixit replacement.

AlexVaq - Reply

Hey i tryed to fix my iphone 7 which had screen brokedown with a collision i think it can b a issue of some loose connection or someting boke out the phone is not responding to anything no display so vibration i tried to change it for too long i din’t even heat up what can b the issue will ut work agian plz reply im a student and cant aford to buy new phone or waste money on old one i alredy got its screen replaced but its noe working yet plz… help me out with a professional advice it will be gratefully

Thank you

Jashandeep - Reply

Salve ,

mi spiegate perché quando sostituisco il gruppo display e lo vado a rimontare mi rimane sollevato sulla parte dei flat?

è come se non entrasse, eppure sembra tutto ok e ben posizionato.

Grazie anticipatamente della risposta e complimenti per la guida.

Riccardo Mazzoni - Reply


I swapped a broken Iphone 7 screen and everything seemed to work fine even fingerprint.. But the front camera did not work after the swap, so i installed a new one and a battery, and now camera still doesnt work, and there is a vertical black line in the screen. Someone knows what went wrong?

Jonez - Reply

I have a strange problem. i had a iphone 7 with the audio ic problem, so got another working one with a cracked screen. I have just switched the board and button from the good one to the broken audio ic one. now fingerprint ID works fine, but i am getting no haptic at all from the button. the phone works fine. both phones had button haptic before the swap.

sam caspian - Reply

sorted it, tried reconnecting the cables, no joy. in the end i swapped over the taptic motor, and its fine now. I also swapped out them tri screws for normal + ones from all my spare parts.

sam caspian -

Thank you!, Evan Noronha (and 8 other contributors). Using this guide, I was able to disassemble and assemble back the screen. I will keep the forum posted for any other problems.

Hariharan Hariharasubramanian - Reply

If you tore the top ribbon cable for the camera and what not, can you stil replace the screen and it work?

Kate Godfrey - Reply

Why are all of these “replacement” guides actually just disassembly guides? You always cut the instructions off halfway. This doesn’t show anyone how to replace anything, just how to remove the screen and other connected components. How much extra effort would it actually be for you to include the rest of the instructions? Like 5 more photos per guide?

Josh O'Brien - Reply

I believe it’s possible to create your own iFixit guides.

I’ve never had an issue with this. I mean sure it’d be nice, but for such a prolific and constantly updated resource, I don’t see the point in complaining too much about it. I’ve never felt like they don’t give me enough to complete a repair.

Sam -

In terms of this particular guide, the only thing missing in my opinion is removing the front sensor flex cable, earpiece speaker and backplate, but since many displays come with those parts attached I can understand the exclusion. At the end of the day, a disassembly guide is all one really needs for these repairs since you can follow the instructions backwards to install the new part once the broken part is disassembled, so adding steps for that seems somewhat redundant.

Sam -

Is it possible to replace the display without the adhesive? Or is it absolutely necessary?

Bryan Young - Reply

A tiny drop of super glue holds the plastic camera holder in place

Paul O'Donohoe - Reply

Anyone found a way of getting the 3 1.2mm screws out? (step 13) They just won’t budge, and I think I’ve stripped the heads… What now?

Stephen Babbage - Reply

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