Introduction

Follow the steps in this guide to replace the volume control cable in your iPhone 6s Plus.

You can also use this guide to replace the audio control cable bracket.

Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.4 mm Pentalobe screws on either side of the Lightning port.

Make sure you use the correct screw driver tip to remove these screws, which for the iPhone 6s Plus is the P2, otherwise you may strip the tip of the screw making it 10 times harder to remove. If once the screw is lose, it will not come off, use a magnet to remove it.

Miguel Perez - Reply

If I do it by myself, will it damage the water resistant strip?

I know iphone 7 have it ,but I am not sure 6s plus have it.

Ganqian Zhu - Reply

iPhone 6s has an adhesive gasket under the display, similar to the iPhone 7—however, it doesn’t add much in the way of waterproofing since the 6s has non-sealed openings in other parts of the phone. Water resistance on the 6s is primarily internal (seals around the logic board connectors, etc.). It may still be worthwhile to replace the adhesive on the 6s in order to help keep the display firmly seated so it doesn’t move/wobble at all under pressure, but the phone will continue to work fine whether you replace the adhesive or not.

Jeff Suovanen -

Salve nella procedura iniziale di smontaggio display con la ventosa non è menzionato il fatto di scaldare i lati del display per “ammorbidire” la striscia che incolla il display alla scocca.

Non è necessaria la cosa o è consigliabile ?

grazie

Hello, in the initial disassembling procedure with the suction cup, it is not mentioned how to heat the sides of the display to "soften" the strip that glues the display to the body.

Is not the thing necessary or is it advisable?

thank you

Daniele - Reply

How do I know that the Battery has ZERO Charging Cycles on it when it arrives ? Is there a (downside) to Higher Capacity batteries ? It is INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT to maintain a “Zero Chinese Products Lifestyle”, so how do I know that I’m not getting a deficient Chinese battery, potentially a refurb. battery ?

integritybuilders - Reply

When your repair is complete, you can use coconutBattery to check your new battery stats and cycle count. (A properly tested battery may already have a charge cycle or two on it.) Avoid higher capacity batteries on iPhones—they’re generally either gimmicks, unsafe, or both. As far as the quality of the part, that comes down to how much you trust your supplier and whether they guarantee the product.

Jeff Suovanen -

Opening the display on the 6s Plus separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.
  • Opening the display on the 6s Plus separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.

  • Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.

take out screws first!!

Yoav Karmon - Reply

Make sure you use the right screw driver tip for i phone 6s Plus, which is the P-2. If the screw will not come off once is lose, try using a magnet.

Miguel Perez - Reply

My cracked screen prevented the suction cup from sealing. SOLUTION: With a piece of clear packing tape across the screen, the suction cup will seal and pull.

Jim Cowles - Reply

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.
  • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

  • Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

I had a shattered front glass panel so I could not get the suction cup to seal properly. I tried a couple of different ways to get good suction but to no avail. I eventually used a Stanley knife to pry up the corner so I could get the spudger into the opening.

John Architzel - Reply

A really high quality packing tape over the entire screen will usually be enough to use the suction cup on a shattered screen.

djwooten -

I used a suction cup on each side to provide counter traction. I braced the iphone between my knees and pulled apart while my helper inserted the spudger

jkanne - Reply

This was by FAR the most difficult part of this whole thing. I confess the spudger was not cutting it so I used a butter knife to get into the small opening first, then used the spudger to go around the screen.

Julie Sanchez - Reply

Hey everyone, if you never have done this part before be aware there is an extremely strong adhesive around the lip of the screen and once again is extremely strong. I had to get a friend to insert the pry/pick into the small gap while I used one hand to brace the phone down and the other to pull the suction cup without it digging into my hand. Go slow, it took me 5 tries because I didn’t realize how strong the adhesive was.

bartmistrot - Reply

I also had a badly cracked lower screen - that glass was actually threatening to pull off the phone in chunks during this step, even with packing tape. Resorted to @j2arch’s tip and inserted a utility knife vertically into the seam between the display and phone body. Was able to lever the glass enough to get the spudger in there.

Jason Augustyn - Reply

I have replaced sevrel screens for my sister in law and my niece. The packing tape has worked every time and that’s with it Shattered and pieces already falling out. You have to make sure the packing tape goes to the edge of the screen but doesn’t touch the frame. I have the plier like screen remover and use that it is much easier to remove the screen by your self with that tool. I also have the little finger suction cup that comes with the kit here. I bought the plier suction cup tool When I had to replace the screen that had the pieces of the screen missing and I don’t regret spending the extra money for that it has made a world of difference. I do this as a hobby it’s not a job for me. The electric divide repair kit from Lowe’s is also a very good kit to help. If you’re only going to do it once the kit that comes with the package is a great deal from ifixit. Well worth the money to spend the little extra to get the kit if you all ready don’t have the tools.

Brent - Reply

The safest place to pry from is the notch in the front panel above the headphone jack. While still maintaining pressure on the suction cup, insert the flat tip of a spudger into the gap, directly above the headphone jack. While still maintaining pressure on the suction cup, insert the flat tip of a spudger into the gap, directly above the headphone jack.
  • The safest place to pry from is the notch in the front panel above the headphone jack.

  • While still maintaining pressure on the suction cup, insert the flat tip of a spudger into the gap, directly above the headphone jack.

This was by far the hardest part of the repair for me. Getting leverage while finding a way to prod with a spudger is a challenge in coordination. I used a second spudger with point holding the phone down by the headphone jack, with the other end of the spudger anchored to my desk.

drpotter - Reply

Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel and the rear case. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel and the rear case.
  • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel and the rear case.

just changed the screen, but due to the tape along side the screen , it is best to heat a little so the glue losses and you can get the screen off better, like indicated

Bart Blanckaert - Reply

While firmly pulling up on the suction cup, slide the edge of the spudger under the bottom left corner of the display. While firmly pulling up on the suction cup, slide the edge of the spudger under the bottom left corner of the display. While firmly pulling up on the suction cup, slide the edge of the spudger under the bottom left corner of the display.
  • While firmly pulling up on the suction cup, slide the edge of the spudger under the bottom left corner of the display.

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Slide the tip of the spudger up the left side of the phone, between the front panel and the rear case. Slide the tip of the spudger up the left side of the phone, between the front panel and the rear case.
  • Slide the tip of the spudger up the left side of the phone, between the front panel and the rear case.

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Insert the flat tip of the spudger under the right edge of the display. Slide the spudger up the right side.
  • Insert the flat tip of the spudger under the right edge of the display.

  • Slide the spudger up the right side.

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Use a plastic opening tool to hold down the rear case while pulling up the suction cup to open the phone. Do not remove the display completely, or you will damage the data cables connecting the display near the top edge of the iPhone.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to hold down the rear case while pulling up the suction cup to open the phone.

    • Do not remove the display completely, or you will damage the data cables connecting the display near the top edge of the iPhone.

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Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the display. Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the display.
  • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the display.

Remember to apply the screen gasket on the re-assemble. The gasket is provided in the kit but not mentioned here on the instructions.

Won Hong - Reply

There’s a link to the entire gasket replacement procedure in Step 21.

Jeff Suovanen -

Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge. Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone. Don't open the display more than 90º—it is still connected to the top of the phone by the display, digitizer, and front camera cables which can tear easily.
  • Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Don't open the display more than 90º—it is still connected to the top of the phone by the display, digitizer, and front camera cables which can tear easily.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to support the display.

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  • Remove two Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 2.3 mm screw

  • Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.

FYI - I used some blue painters tape wrapped around a piece of cardboard to hold the screws and brackets in place, in order, so they did not get lost. Some of those screws are MICROSCOPIC so be careful!

I also suggest having very good lighting, even a camping headlight for hands-free well lit work space. You will thank me later :-)

Julie Sanchez - Reply

Use the bit labeled “PH000”.

Joe Teichert - Reply

PH000 bit just wants to free-spin in the 2.3 mm screw. no bite in the head at all. had no difficulty removing the 2.9 mm screw with the same Phillips. had to abandon battery replacement effort.

Benjamin Stalcup - Reply

For this part, neither PH000 or Y000 worked. Technically, it’ll set you back 31$ because you will need the PH00 screwdriver for this part, and the part where you need to open the screen. They have ph00 screwdrivers in every hardware store and even ifixit.com. just know that they put the wrong screwheads for you

Jack Daniel - Reply

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Let’s honor more than our dads—let’s celebrate all the mentors who taught us how to fix.
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Let’s honor those who taught us how to fix.
Remove the battery connector bracket. Remove the battery connector bracket.
  • Remove the battery connector bracket.

Does it matter if the brackets arent put back in the phone? I bought a used phone and brackets are missing. Thanks!

Coupon Crazy - Reply

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up off the logic board. Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up off the logic board. Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up off the logic board.
  • Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up off the logic board.

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Bend the connector back to ensure it doesn't make contact and power the iPhone on while you're working on it. Bend the connector back to ensure it doesn't make contact and power the iPhone on while you're working on it. Bend the connector back to ensure it doesn't make contact and power the iPhone on while you're working on it.
  • Bend the connector back to ensure it doesn't make contact and power the iPhone on while you're working on it.

See my comment at the end of the procedure. If you work carefully, you need not remove the logic board and can skip ahead to step 38 after completing this step (disconnecting battery).

Mark Cousins - Reply

When putting the new battery in, make sure to line up the plug and not to the top of the battery… our battery was smaller so the plug would NOT have lined up if we used the top of the battery. ALSO, the plug was NOT 90 degrees so we had to finagle the plug. Also, make sure there is a clear CLICK when you plug in the connector or it may not work. Ours went in but guess didn’t go far enough so we had to take the screen off and push it harder until we heard the “click” then it worked fine.

Won Hong - Reply

Remove the following Phillips screws:
  • Remove the following Phillips screws:

    • Three 1.3 mm screws

    • One 1.6 mm screw

    • One 3.0 mm screw

      • During reassembly, it's critical to place this 3.0 mm screw in the top-right corner of the bracket. Placing it anywhere else may damage the logic board.

I really don't see value in removing screen use box and rubber band keep at 90 degrees.

John Parker - Reply

I leave screen on as well for this. - Tho I prefer a 45 degree lean.

Thor -

I just changed my battery and also left the screen attached. I was lucky enough to get all 3 adhesive battery strips out clean so I didn’t have a struggle with the battery coming out. If I was going to need to get rough with it I was going to take the screen off at that point.

Michael Gross - Reply

Remove the display cable bracket. Remove the display cable bracket.
  • Remove the display cable bracket.

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Be careful to only pry up on the connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.
  • Be careful to only pry up on the connector itself and not the socket on the logic board.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

FYI, in the video she uses the spudger for this but I think either one will work.

Julie Sanchez - Reply

Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board. When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

  • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Thanks you i fix it

God Hand - Reply

Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step. Disconnect the display cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

  • Disconnect the display cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

How much is this to replace?

Alistair knight - Reply

And where could I buy from?

Alistair knight - Reply

After finishing the assembly I got the message “Touch ID cannot be enabled on this phone”. I found this connector was loose. Plugged it back in and that fixed it.

Bryan Province - Reply

Always make sure to disconnect the battery before you do any work on the phone replacing any parts the digitizer or anything. And before you start make sure the phone is turned off you don’t want any power surges. If you also have a static electricity bracelet that also is a plus to use but isn’t a necessity just a nice piece of mind. Some cases you do need to use one so you don’t discharge static electricity to an electrical component and mess it up.

Brent - Reply

Be very careful in this step. I noticed it’s very easy to tear the flex when trying to lift it out of its socket from the right side.

shoeib - Reply

Remove the display assembly. During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the adhesive around the edges of the display.

You need to clarify where exactly these "adhesive strips around the display" are, what they look like, and where to purchase new ones from.

Anthony - Reply

You can see what they look like in this blog post. Hopefully we'll have replacement adhesive strips available in the future, but right now I don't know of any suppliers. Your phone will work fine without replacing the adhesive—if I had to guess, I'd say it's there as a little extra insurance against display wobble now that 3D Touch has users pushing harder on their phones.

Jeff Suovanen -

We now have a detailed guide for replacing the adhesive strips, and we should have them in stock soon. The guide has been updated to reflect this.

Jeff Suovanen -

For instructions on home button swap out to the new screen you just installed, go here

iPhone 6s Plus Home Button Assembly Replacement

Superior Office Systems - Reply

Do you know whether the adhesive contributes to waterproofing, or just for stability/adhesion?

Christa - Reply

@kitabel The iPhone 6s case isn’t waterproof, so I don’t think adhesive around the display is contributing anything other than stability. The 6s series does have some water resistance, but it’s mostly internal and not something Apple advertises.

Jeff Suovanen -

Peel back the tips of the three battery adhesive strips along the bottom edge of the battery. Peel back the tips of the three battery adhesive strips along the bottom edge of the battery. Peel back the tips of the three battery adhesive strips along the bottom edge of the battery.
  • Peel back the tips of the three battery adhesive strips along the bottom edge of the battery.

OK - second most challenging part of the swap. TAKE YOUR TIME! It is hard to pull the strips out without getting them caught on the metal edge parts inside which can tear them, but do them one at a time, pull slow but steady, and as it stretches, grab the tape closer down near the body of the phone. You will not believe how far these things can stretch!

I was successful with getting 2/3 of them out but the one closest to the guts - the first one I tried to hurry - broke off. I got the other two out then needed to use a credit card to get up & under to loosen the battery. Another video I saw showed slightly warming up the back of the phone using a hair dryer set on low which would loosen the adhesive, but I did not do that. I was able to get the battery up far enough to use the tweezers to grab the adhesive and then pull it out.

Julie Sanchez - Reply

I’m absolutely stuck here. I don’t see the adhesive strips at the bottom of the battery. I only see the flat cable that wraps around the bottom of the battery, which is now separated. I don’t think it was supposed to separate like that.

David Warshowsky - Reply

Gather the ends of all three adhesive strips in your hand.
  • Gather the ends of all three adhesive strips in your hand.

  • Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

When I did this, the 5 inch strip stretched to about 3 feet.

Joe Teichert - Reply

Gently pull the battery adhesive tabs away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone. To avoid tearing the adhesive strip, be careful not to pull against the battery or lower components. Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strips as they slip out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strips at a 60º angle or less.
  • Gently pull the battery adhesive tabs away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

    • To avoid tearing the adhesive strip, be careful not to pull against the battery or lower components.

    • Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strips as they slip out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strips at a 60º angle or less.

    • The strips will stretch to many times their original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strips near the battery if necessary.

  • Hold down the battery with one hand as you pull, or the elastic strips may fling the battery from the phone once they're separated from the rear case.

Use a set of curved tweasers to pull each strip clear of the bottom left corner of the battery. Then the strips will pull out alongside the battery and the frame almost effortlessly. Do this for each strip and your battery should almost fall out.

Dustin DeShaney - Reply

I found it better to pull one strip at a time

John Parker - Reply

Do them separately or they will probably rip like mine did :(

Christopher Eccles - Reply

Pulling them separately is a good idea especially if it’s your first time. My middle strip tore at the beginning and I had to pry the battery up and then I was able to remove the remaining strip of adhesive. While prying the old battery in an upward angle it did start to bend I believe I achieved a 35 degree angle

Gregory - Reply

Definitely agree one at a time - see my comment above for more detail. Also possible to slightly warm the back of the phone first using hair dryer set on low. This loosens the adhesive if for some reason you break a strip off & have to pry the battery out (CAREFULLY)

Julie Sanchez - Reply

I used a hair dryer to warm the back of the phone, and I still broke two of the three “taffy stickers”. If I did it again, I would keep the back warm with a hair dryer, and gradually pull one piece straight out at a time at as low an angle as possible. Unfortunately, the small backers came off my perimeter adhesive, so as I pulled the taffy stickers out, it stuck to the perimeter adhesive and messed it up. Perhaps remove the battery before applying the new adhesive around the edge of the phone? Everything was going well for me until this step.

Joe Teichert - Reply

Nightmare. All three strips broke. I did get the battery out with a combination of dental floss, a guitar string, and a few cut-down credit cards. But the adhesive is very strong even when warmed, and the outer wrapper of the battery tore during removal. I was afraid of it heating up and sparking, as I have seen other damaged lithium ion batteries do.

Garrett McWilliams - Reply

If you successfully removed all three adhesive strips, move on to the next step. Otherwise, you will need to pry the battery from the rear case. Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the back of the rear case, directly over the battery. Alternatively, you can apply heat using a heat gun or  hair dryer.
  • If you successfully removed all three adhesive strips, move on to the next step. Otherwise, you will need to pry the battery from the rear case.

  • Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the back of the rear case, directly over the battery. Alternatively, you can apply heat using a heat gun or hair dryer.

  • After about a minute, flip the phone over and use a plastic card to break up any remaining adhesive behind the battery.

    • Do not insert your card in the area between the volume down (-) button and the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the volume control cable lying underneath.

    • Do not pry against the logic board or you may damage the phone.

    • Keep the card as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals or catch fire. Do not use any sharp tools to pry at the battery.

  • Alternatively, a piece of dental floss may be used to separate the battery from the rear case. A stronger alternative to dental floss is an unwound guitar string, such as a 0.009 E string from a 12-string set.

  • Thread the floss or string behind the upper battery corners, bring the ends together, wrap them around a folded cloth, and pull evenly.

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Remove the battery.
  • Remove the battery.

  • If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove the sleeve before installation by pulling it away from the the ribbon cable.

  • When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips.

  • Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

I recommend putting the battery in place BEFORE putting the new adhesive strips to make sure you know for sure that the battery connector lines up with the socket. I ended up with a battery wire that was just a bit too long and I mounted the battery way at top of the pocket (big mistake). Even after moving the battery down, the connector wire was still a little too long, so I had to connect the battery and shove the wire between the battery and logic board as much as I could. Checking the battery beforehand could save some adhesive strips from going to waste.

joetalaga - Reply

Thanks for the tip, joetalaga!

Joe Teichert - Reply

Remove the two 2.7 mm Phillips screws over the audio control cable bracket.
  • Remove the two 2.7 mm Phillips screws over the audio control cable bracket.

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Remove the audio control cable bracket. Remove the audio control cable bracket.
  • Remove the audio control cable bracket.

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Disconnect the audio control flex cable from its socket on the logic board. Disconnect the audio control flex cable from its socket on the logic board.
  • Disconnect the audio control flex cable from its socket on the logic board.

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Remove the circular sticker covering the third screw securing the cellular antenna to the rear case. Remove the circular sticker covering the third screw securing the cellular antenna to the rear case.
  • Remove the circular sticker covering the third screw securing the cellular antenna to the rear case.

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Remove the following three Phillips screws:
  • Remove the following three Phillips screws:

    • One 2.7 mm screw

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    • One 1.3 mm screw

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Lift, but do not remove, the cellular antenna to reveal the third screw securing the audio control cable to the rear case. Lift, but do not remove, the cellular antenna to reveal the third screw securing the audio control cable to the rear case.
  • Lift, but do not remove, the cellular antenna to reveal the third screw securing the audio control cable to the rear case.

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Remove the three 2.4 mm Phillips screws over the audio control cable bracket.
  • Remove the three 2.4 mm Phillips screws over the audio control cable bracket.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the volume control flex cable off the rear case. Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the volume control flex cable off the rear case.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the volume control flex cable off the rear case.

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Remove the volume control flex cable. The cable assembly has two separate pieces connected by a ribbon cable—the volume control buttons and silent switch.
  • Remove the volume control flex cable.

    • The cable assembly has two separate pieces connected by a ribbon cable—the volume control buttons and silent switch.

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Finish Line

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Dante Mazzanti

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