Introduction

Use this guide to replace a bent or damaged rear case, or to swap out the rear case for cosmetic reasons. The rear case serves as the chassis for the entire phone, so replacing it involves removing all the iPhone's components.

You can also use this guide to replace the following parts:

  • IFC Bracket
  • Loudspeaker Mount
  • Microphone Mount
  • Front Panel Clips
Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.4 mm Pentalobe screws on either side of the Lightning port.

Make sure you use the correct screw driver tip to remove these screws, which for the iPhone 6s Plus is the P2, otherwise you may strip the tip of the screw making it 10 times harder to remove. If once the screw is lose, it will not come off, use a magnet to remove it.

Miguel Perez - Reply

If I do it by myself, will it damage the water resistant strip?

I know iphone 7 have it ,but I am not sure 6s plus have it.

Ganqian Zhu - Reply

iPhone 6s has an adhesive gasket under the display, similar to the iPhone 7—however, it doesn’t add much in the way of waterproofing since the 6s has non-sealed openings in other parts of the phone. Water resistance on the 6s is primarily internal (seals around the logic board connectors, etc.). It may still be worthwhile to replace the adhesive on the 6s in order to help keep the display firmly seated so it doesn’t move/wobble at all under pressure, but the phone will continue to work fine whether you replace the adhesive or not.

Jeff Suovanen -

Opening the display on the 6s Plus separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.
  • Opening the display on the 6s Plus separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.

  • Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.

take out screws first!!

Yoav Karmon - Reply

Make sure you use the right screw driver tip for i phone 6s Plus, which is the P-2. If the screw will not come off once is lose, try using a magnet.

Miguel Perez - Reply

My cracked screen prevented the suction cup from sealing. SOLUTION: With a piece of clear packing tape across the screen, the suction cup will seal and pull.

Jim Cowles - Reply

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.
  • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

  • Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

I had a shattered front glass panel so I could not get the suction cup to seal properly. I tried a couple of different ways to get good suction but to no avail. I eventually used a Stanley knife to pry up the corner so I could get the spudger into the opening.

John Architzel - Reply

A really high quality packing tape over the entire screen will usually be enough to use the suction cup on a shattered screen.

djwooten -

I used a suction cup on each side to provide counter traction. I braced the iphone between my knees and pulled apart while my helper inserted the spudger

jkanne - Reply

This was by FAR the most difficult part of this whole thing. I confess the spudger was not cutting it so I used a butter knife to get into the small opening first, then used the spudger to go around the screen.

Julie Sanchez - Reply

Hey everyone, if you never have done this part before be aware there is an extremely strong adhesive around the lip of the screen and once again is extremely strong. I had to get a friend to insert the pry/pick into the small gap while I used one hand to brace the phone down and the other to pull the suction cup without it digging into my hand. Go slow, it took me 5 tries because I didn’t realize how strong the adhesive was.

bartmistrot - Reply

I also had a badly cracked lower screen - that glass was actually threatening to pull off the phone in chunks during this step, even with packing tape. Resorted to @j2arch’s tip and inserted a utility knife vertically into the seam between the display and phone body. Was able to lever the glass enough to get the spudger in there.

Jason Augustyn - Reply

The safest place to pry from is the notch in the front panel above the headphone jack. While still maintaining pressure on the suction cup, insert the flat tip of a spudger into the gap, directly above the headphone jack. While still maintaining pressure on the suction cup, insert the flat tip of a spudger into the gap, directly above the headphone jack.
  • The safest place to pry from is the notch in the front panel above the headphone jack.

  • While still maintaining pressure on the suction cup, insert the flat tip of a spudger into the gap, directly above the headphone jack.

This was by far the hardest part of the repair for me. Getting leverage while finding a way to prod with a spudger is a challenge in coordination. I used a second spudger with point holding the phone down by the headphone jack, with the other end of the spudger anchored to my desk.

drpotter - Reply

Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel and the rear case. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel and the rear case.
  • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel and the rear case.

While firmly pulling up on the suction cup, slide the edge of the spudger under the bottom left corner of the display. While firmly pulling up on the suction cup, slide the edge of the spudger under the bottom left corner of the display. While firmly pulling up on the suction cup, slide the edge of the spudger under the bottom left corner of the display.
  • While firmly pulling up on the suction cup, slide the edge of the spudger under the bottom left corner of the display.

Slide the tip of the spudger up the left side of the phone, between the front panel and the rear case. Slide the tip of the spudger up the left side of the phone, between the front panel and the rear case.
  • Slide the tip of the spudger up the left side of the phone, between the front panel and the rear case.

Insert the flat tip of the spudger under the right edge of the display. Slide the spudger up the right side.
  • Insert the flat tip of the spudger under the right edge of the display.

  • Slide the spudger up the right side.

Use a plastic opening tool to hold down the rear case while pulling up the suction cup to open the phone. Do not remove the display completely, or you will damage the data cables connecting the display near the top edge of the iPhone.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to hold down the rear case while pulling up the suction cup to open the phone.

    • Do not remove the display completely, or you will damage the data cables connecting the display near the top edge of the iPhone.

Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the display. Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the display.
  • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the display.

Remember to apply the screen gasket on the re-assemble. The gasket is provided in the kit but not mentioned here on the instructions.

Won Hong - Reply

There’s a link to the entire gasket replacement procedure in Step 21.

Jeff Suovanen -

Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge. Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone. Don't open the display more than 90º—it is still connected to the top of the phone by the display, digitizer, and front camera cables which can tear easily.
  • Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Don't open the display more than 90º—it is still connected to the top of the phone by the display, digitizer, and front camera cables which can tear easily.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to support the display.

Remove the following Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket to the logic board:
  • Remove the following Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket to the logic board:

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 2.3 mm screw

FYI - I used some blue painters tape wrapped around a piece of cardboard to hold the screws and brackets in place, in order, so they did not get lost. Some of those screws are MICROSCOPIC so be careful!

I also suggest having very good lighting, even a camping headlight for hands-free well lit work space. You will thank me later :-)

Julie Sanchez - Reply

Remove the battery connector bracket. Remove the battery connector bracket.
  • Remove the battery connector bracket.

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up off the logic board. Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up off the logic board. Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up off the logic board.
  • Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up off the logic board.

Bend the connector back to ensure it doesn't make contact and power the iPhone on while you're working on it. Bend the connector back to ensure it doesn't make contact and power the iPhone on while you're working on it. Bend the connector back to ensure it doesn't make contact and power the iPhone on while you're working on it.
  • Bend the connector back to ensure it doesn't make contact and power the iPhone on while you're working on it.

See my comment at the end of the procedure. If you work carefully, you need not remove the logic board and can skip ahead to step 38 after completing this step (disconnecting battery).

Mark Cousins - Reply

When putting the new battery in, make sure to line up the plug and not to the top of the battery… our battery was smaller so the plug would NOT have lined up if we used the top of the battery. ALSO, the plug was NOT 90 degrees so we had to finagle the plug. Also, make sure there is a clear CLICK when you plug in the connector or it may not work. Ours went in but guess didn’t go far enough so we had to take the screen off and push it harder until we heard the “click” then it worked fine.

Won Hong - Reply

Remove the following Phillips screws:
  • Remove the following Phillips screws:

    • Three 1.3 mm screws

    • One 1.6 mm screw

    • One 3.0 mm screw

      • During reassembly, it's critical to place this 3.0 mm screw in the top-right corner of the bracket. Placing it anywhere else may damage the logic board.

I really don't see value in removing screen use box and rubber band keep at 90 degrees.

John Parker - Reply

I leave screen on as well for this. - Tho I prefer a 45 degree lean.

Thor -

I just changed my battery and also left the screen attached. I was lucky enough to get all 3 adhesive battery strips out clean so I didn’t have a struggle with the battery coming out. If I was going to need to get rough with it I was going to take the screen off at that point.

Michael Gross - Reply

Remove the display cable bracket. Remove the display cable bracket.
  • Remove the display cable bracket.

Be careful to only pry up on the connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.
  • Be careful to only pry up on the connector itself and not the socket on the logic board.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

FYI, in the video she uses the spudger for this but I think either one will work.

Julie Sanchez - Reply

Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board. When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

  • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Thanks you i fix it

God Hand - Reply

Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step. Disconnect the display cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

  • Disconnect the display cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

How much is this to replace?

Alistair knight - Reply

And where could I buy from?

Alistair knight - Reply

After finishing the assembly I got the message “Touch ID cannot be enabled on this phone”. I found this connector was loose. Plugged it back in and that fixed it.

Bryan Province - Reply

Remove the display assembly. During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the adhesive around the edges of the display.

You need to clarify where exactly these "adhesive strips around the display" are, what they look like, and where to purchase new ones from.

Anthony - Reply

You can see what they look like in this blog post. Hopefully we'll have replacement adhesive strips available in the future, but right now I don't know of any suppliers. Your phone will work fine without replacing the adhesive—if I had to guess, I'd say it's there as a little extra insurance against display wobble now that 3D Touch has users pushing harder on their phones.

Jeff Suovanen -

We now have a detailed guide for replacing the adhesive strips, and we should have them in stock soon. The guide has been updated to reflect this.

Jeff Suovanen -

For instructions on home button swap out to the new screen you just installed, go here

iPhone 6s Plus Home Button Assembly Replacement

Superior Office Systems - Reply

Do you know whether the adhesive contributes to waterproofing, or just for stability/adhesion?

Christa - Reply

@kitabel The iPhone 6s case isn’t waterproof, so I don’t think adhesive around the display is contributing anything other than stability. The 6s series does have some water resistance, but it’s mostly internal and not something Apple advertises.

Jeff Suovanen -

Peel up any tape covering the iSight camera bracket screws. Peel up any tape covering the iSight camera bracket screws. Peel up any tape covering the iSight camera bracket screws.
  • Peel up any tape covering the iSight camera bracket screws.

If like me you are only wanting to clean out the speaker, you do not need to do this step. You can skip to step 50

Brad “Bradster48” Mason - Reply

Remove the following Phillips screws over the camera bracket:
  • Remove the following Phillips screws over the camera bracket:

    • One 1.9 mm screw

    • One 2.4 mm screw

Remove the iSight camera bracket. Remove the iSight camera bracket.
  • Remove the iSight camera bracket.

Disconnect the iSight camera connector from its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pry up only the connector and not the socket on the logic board.
  • Disconnect the iSight camera connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure to pry up only the connector and not the socket on the logic board.

Insert the flat end of the spudger between the iSight camera and rear casing. Gently pry the camera out from its housing.
  • Insert the flat end of the spudger between the iSight camera and rear casing.

  • Gently pry the camera out from its housing.

Remove the iSight camera. Remove the iSight camera.
  • Remove the iSight camera.

Hi ,

Thanks a lot for your tutorial !

Can you explain how can we change the lens of the camera ?

Thanks ;)

rocofolie - Reply

Insert a SIM eject tool into the hole in the SIM tray. Press to eject the SIM tray.
  • Insert a SIM eject tool into the hole in the SIM tray.

  • Press to eject the SIM tray.

Remove the SIM tray.
  • Remove the SIM tray.

  • When reinserting the SIM tray, be sure to orient the tray such that the SIM eject hole is on the bottom.

Remove the single 1.4 mm Phillips screw holding the NFC bracket in place.
  • Remove the single 1.4 mm Phillips screw holding the NFC bracket in place.

Remove the NFC bracket. Remove the NFC bracket.
  • Remove the NFC bracket.

New Battery = Faster iPhone
Fix Kits starting at $16.99
Remove the two 2.7 mm Phillips screws securing the audio control cable bracket to the logic board.
  • Remove the two 2.7 mm Phillips screws securing the audio control cable bracket to the logic board.

Remove the audio control cable bracket. Remove the audio control cable bracket.
  • Remove the audio control cable bracket.

Disconnect the audio control cable by prying its connector straight up from its socket on the logic board. Disconnect the audio control cable by prying its connector straight up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Disconnect the audio control cable by prying its connector straight up from its socket on the logic board.

Disconnect the cellular antenna cable by prying its connector straight up from its respective socket on the logic board. Disconnect the cellular antenna cable by prying its connector straight up from its respective socket on the logic board.
  • Disconnect the cellular antenna cable by prying its connector straight up from its respective socket on the logic board.

how do you plug this cable back in? any tips for lining up with the socket? i can't get it to stay :(

kapluni - Reply

Hold the cable with your tweezers and line the connector up over the socket as perfectly as you can, and then press straight down on it with the flat end of your spudger. Should snap into place with a bit of force.

Jeff Suovanen -

Disconnect the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable by prying its connector up from the logic board. Disconnect the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable by prying its connector up from the logic board.
  • Disconnect the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable by prying its connector up from the logic board.

Disconnect the power button flex cable from its socket on the logic board. Disconnect the power button flex cable from its socket on the logic board.
  • Disconnect the power button flex cable from its socket on the logic board.

Disconnect the Lightning connector interconnect antenna cable by prying it up from the logic board. Disconnect the Lightning connector interconnect antenna cable by prying it up from the logic board.
  • Disconnect the Lightning connector interconnect antenna cable by prying it up from the logic board.

This is not a Lightning connector - its a radio connector.

Brad Schwie - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Lightning connector flex cable from the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Lightning connector flex cable from the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Lightning connector flex cable from the logic board.

From here you can skip ahead to step 50.

Mark Cousins - Reply

Deroute the antenna cable from the two clips on the right edge of the logic board. Deroute the antenna cable from the two clips on the right edge of the logic board. Deroute the antenna cable from the two clips on the right edge of the logic board.
  • Deroute the antenna cable from the two clips on the right edge of the logic board.

Remove the following screws: One 1.3 mm Phillips screw
  • Remove the following screws:

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.2 mm Phillips standoff screw

      • Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove this standoff screw.

Use can use a spudger in a pinch to dislodge the 2.2mm standoff screw. This was the most difficult screw in the phone. A Phillips bit will not work.

mechamster - Reply

Remove the bracket. Remove the bracket.
  • Remove the bracket.

Deroute the upper left cellular antenna cable from the first logic board clip by nudging it out from under the clip, towards the battery. Deroute the upper left cellular antenna cable from the first logic board clip by nudging it out from under the clip, towards the battery.
  • Deroute the upper left cellular antenna cable from the first logic board clip by nudging it out from under the clip, towards the battery.

Continue derouting the cellular antenna cable from the second and third logic board clips. Use the pointed tip of a spudger to gently pry the cellular antenna cable from the middle logic board clip. Do not pull the cable out of the center clip, as it will tear easily.
  • Continue derouting the cellular antenna cable from the second and third logic board clips.

  • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to gently pry the cellular antenna cable from the middle logic board clip.

    • Do not pull the cable out of the center clip, as it will tear easily.

  • In order for the cable to reach its socket on the logic board, you must route it above the logic board and underneath the audio control flex cable, as shown in the first photo.

Remove the final 2.0 mm Phillips screw directly below the SIM card reader.
  • Remove the final 2.0 mm Phillips screw directly below the SIM card reader.

Carefully raise—but do not remove—the logic board, lifting it from the bottom edge nearest the Lightning connector. Carefully raise—but do not remove—the logic board, lifting it from the bottom edge nearest the Lightning connector. Carefully raise—but do not remove—the logic board, lifting it from the bottom edge nearest the Lightning connector.
  • Carefully raise—but do not remove—the logic board, lifting it from the bottom edge nearest the Lightning connector.

Tip the logic board up to a vertical position to expose the single antenna connector on the underside, near the top edge of the board. Do not attempt to fully remove the logic board yet, as the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna is still connected to the underside of the board. Do not attempt to fully remove the logic board yet, as the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna is still connected to the underside of the board.
  • Tip the logic board up to a vertical position to expose the single antenna connector on the underside, near the top edge of the board.

  • Do not attempt to fully remove the logic board yet, as the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna is still connected to the underside of the board.

Gently lay the logic board upside-down, with the top portion resting against the rear case of the iPhone. Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna cable from its socket on the back of the logic board.
  • Gently lay the logic board upside-down, with the top portion resting against the rear case of the iPhone.

  • Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna cable from its socket on the back of the logic board.

Ugh, the socket connector separated from the back of the rigid cable. Two wires are still attached to the socket connector, but I’m guessing I’ll need to purchase a replacement WiFi/Bluetooth antenna cable at some point. I hope you sell these too?

Brad Schwie - Reply

**Update** I used the tiniest drop of super glue with activator on both the connector and cable. It seems to be holding! Will reassemble and see if it works. Lucky for me, you sell the replacement cable for $14.99 if my cheap bastard fix fails :)

Brad Schwie - Reply

**Update #2** Using super glue on the upper left wi-fi connector seems to have worked, both my bluetooth and wi-fi are working well post-repair.

Brad Schwie - Reply

Remove the logic board.
  • Remove the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the Lightning connector flex cable off the speaker. Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the Lightning connector flex cable off the speaker. Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the Lightning connector flex cable off the speaker.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the Lightning connector flex cable off the speaker.

Remove the following three Phillips screws from the Taptic Engine cable bracket: Two 3.5 mm screws
  • Remove the following three Phillips screws from the Taptic Engine cable bracket:

    • Two 3.5 mm screws

    • One 2.7 mm screw

  • Remove the bracket.

Remove the five Phillips screws securing the speaker to the rear case:
  • Remove the five Phillips screws securing the speaker to the rear case:

    • Two 2.7 mm screws

    • One 2.5 mm screw

    • One 1.5 mm screw

    • One 1.7 mm screw

Deroute the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable from its rubber sleeve. If the white water damage indicator sticker makes it difficult to deroute the antenna cable, gently peel the sticker back for better access. If the white water damage indicator sticker makes it difficult to deroute the antenna cable, gently peel the sticker back for better access.
  • Deroute the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable from its rubber sleeve.

    • If the white water damage indicator sticker makes it difficult to deroute the antenna cable, gently peel the sticker back for better access.

This step isn't necessary. You can leave this cable in place.

Mark Cousins - Reply

yes totally unnecessary to remove this or the board at all.

Smartfone NI - Reply

Use a pair of tweezers to disconnect the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable from the Lightning connector flex cable. Use a pair of tweezers to disconnect the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable from the Lightning connector flex cable.
  • Use a pair of tweezers to disconnect the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable from the Lightning connector flex cable.

Remove the final 2.6 mm Phillips screw securing the speaker to the rear case.
  • Remove the final 2.6 mm Phillips screw securing the speaker to the rear case.

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the speaker assembly out of its housing. Remove the speaker assembly. Remove the speaker assembly.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the speaker assembly out of its housing.

  • Remove the speaker assembly.

Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable from the lower flex cable. Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable from the lower flex cable.
  • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable from the lower flex cable.

Remove the following screws holding the Taptic Engine in place:
  • Remove the following screws holding the Taptic Engine in place:

    • One 3.1 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.1 mm Phillips screw

Remove the Taptic Engine. Remove the Taptic Engine.
  • Remove the Taptic Engine.

Peel back the tape over the screw securing the Lightning connector flex cable to the lip of the phone. Peel back the tape over the screw securing the Lightning connector flex cable to the lip of the phone.
  • Peel back the tape over the screw securing the Lightning connector flex cable to the lip of the phone.

Remove the following five Phillips screws: One 2.9 mm screw
  • Remove the following five Phillips screws:

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 1.9 mm screw

    • One 1.5 mm screw

    • One 1.6 mm screw

    • One 1.3 mm screw set into the edge of the rear case

Prepare an iOpener and lay it across the bottom of the phone to soften the adhesive holding the Lightning connector flex cable in place.
  • Prepare an iOpener and lay it across the bottom of the phone to soften the adhesive holding the Lightning connector flex cable in place.

  • Wait about a minute for the adhesive to soften before removing the iOpener and continuing.

Insert an opening pick between the flex cable's upper right grounding bracket and the rear case to begin separating the two. Insert an opening pick between the flex cable's upper right grounding bracket and the rear case to begin separating the two. Insert an opening pick between the flex cable's upper right grounding bracket and the rear case to begin separating the two.
  • Insert an opening pick between the flex cable's upper right grounding bracket and the rear case to begin separating the two.

Slowly, apply constant pressure to push the pick along underneath the flex cable, breaking up the adhesive holding it in place. Slowly, apply constant pressure to push the pick along underneath the flex cable, breaking up the adhesive holding it in place. Slowly, apply constant pressure to push the pick along underneath the flex cable, breaking up the adhesive holding it in place.
  • Slowly, apply constant pressure to push the pick along underneath the flex cable, breaking up the adhesive holding it in place.

Continue sliding the opening pick underneath the flex cable. Continue sliding the opening pick underneath the flex cable.
  • Continue sliding the opening pick underneath the flex cable.

Use the pointed tip of a spudger to nudge the 3.5 mm headphone jack from its housing in the rear case. Use the pointed tip of a spudger to nudge the 3.5 mm headphone jack from its housing in the rear case.
  • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to nudge the 3.5 mm headphone jack from its housing in the rear case.

Use an opening pick to pry the left microphone off the edge of the rear case. Use an opening pick to pry the left microphone off the edge of the rear case.
  • Use an opening pick to pry the left microphone off the edge of the rear case.

make sure you don’t remove the little black plastic part that goes between the microphone & case, it was firmly attached to the left microphone.

Rhonda Tregay - Reply

Repeat the previous step for the lower right microphone. Repeat the previous step for the lower right microphone.
  • Repeat the previous step for the lower right microphone.

Remove the Lightning connector flex cable.
  • Remove the Lightning connector flex cable.

  • Before installing or replacing the Lightning connector flex cable assembly:

    • Use a plastic tool to scour any bits of adhesive residue from the rear case behind the cable.

    • Compare your replacement part to the original and note any differences. You may find a rubber gasket adhered to the old headphone jack, which should be transferred to the new part if needed.

    • Test fit your replacement part, and then peel off any protective plastic films or liners before installing.

Remove the following four Phillips screws: Three 2.0 mm  screws holding the power button bracket in place
  • Remove the following four Phillips screws:

    • Three 2.0 mm screws holding the power button bracket in place

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips screw over the flash and microphone bracket

Flash/microphone bracket on the second (and first too) picture needs to go in the socket located on the frame’s top (therefore the top side of the bracket is not visible like in steps 23-27), not lay on top of the socket. I had to come back to this later during my reassembly.

domin8 - Reply

Remove the flash/microphone bracket. Remove the flash/microphone bracket.
  • Remove the flash/microphone bracket.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift the flash out of its housing in the rear case. Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift the flash out of its housing in the rear case.
  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift the flash out of its housing in the rear case.

Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the power button flex cable off the rear case. Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the power button flex cable off the rear case.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the power button flex cable off the rear case.

Insert the tip of a spudger underneath the microphone portion of the flex cable and gently pry it off of the rear case. Insert the tip of a spudger underneath the microphone portion of the flex cable and gently pry it off of the rear case. Insert the tip of a spudger underneath the microphone portion of the flex cable and gently pry it off of the rear case.
  • Insert the tip of a spudger underneath the microphone portion of the flex cable and gently pry it off of the rear case.

Slide an opening pick underneath the power button flex cable to pry the cable off the rear case. Slide an opening pick underneath the power button flex cable to pry the cable off the rear case. Slide an opening pick underneath the power button flex cable to pry the cable off the rear case.
  • Slide an opening pick underneath the power button flex cable to pry the cable off the rear case.

Remove the power button flex cable. Remove the power button flex cable.
  • Remove the power button flex cable.

Gently nudge the power button cover out of its slot in the rear case. Gently nudge the power button cover out of its slot in the rear case.
  • Gently nudge the power button cover out of its slot in the rear case.

Remove the button cover. Remove the button cover.
  • Remove the button cover.

Remove the following screws holding the cellular antenna  in place:
  • Remove the following screws holding the cellular antenna in place:

    • One 2.7 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.7 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips screw

Remove the cellular antenna. Remove the cellular antenna.
  • Remove the cellular antenna.

Remove the single 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna to the rear case.
  • Remove the single 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna to the rear case.

Remove the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna. Remove the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna.
  • Remove the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna.

Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the tips of the three battery adhesive strips along the bottom edge of the battery. Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the tips of the three battery adhesive strips along the bottom edge of the battery. Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the tips of the three battery adhesive strips along the bottom edge of the battery.
  • Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the tips of the three battery adhesive strips along the bottom edge of the battery.

Gather all three tips of the battery adhesive strips in one hand.
  • Gather all three tips of the battery adhesive strips in one hand.

  • Be sure to not wrinkle any of the strips during this procedure—they will become very difficult to deal with and will not straighten out again.

Pull the adhesive strips straight out, keeping the strips flat and wide until they are completely removed. For best results, pull the strips at a 60º angle or less. The strips will stretch to many times their original length. Continue pulling until you completely remove all three strips. Hold down the battery with one hand as you're pulling, or the elastic strips will fling the battery from the phone once they're separated from the rear case.
  • Pull the adhesive strips straight out, keeping the strips flat and wide until they are completely removed. For best results, pull the strips at a 60º angle or less.

  • The strips will stretch to many times their original length. Continue pulling until you completely remove all three strips.

  • Hold down the battery with one hand as you're pulling, or the elastic strips will fling the battery from the phone once they're separated from the rear case.

If you successfully removed all three adhesive strips, move on to the next step. Otherwise, you will need to pry the battery from the rear case. Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the back of the rear case, directly over the battery. Alternatively, you can apply heat using a heat gun or  hair dryer.
  • If you successfully removed all three adhesive strips, move on to the next step. Otherwise, you will need to pry the battery from the rear case.

  • Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the back of the rear case, directly over the battery. Alternatively, you can apply heat using a heat gun or hair dryer.

  • After about a minute, flip the phone over and use a plastic card to tear through any remaining adhesive.

Remove the battery.
  • Remove the battery.

Remove the three 2.4 mm Phillips screws over the audio control cable bracket.
  • Remove the three 2.4 mm Phillips screws over the audio control cable bracket.

Use the flat end of a spudger to peel up the volume control flex cable. Use the flat end of a spudger to peel up the volume control flex cable. Use the flat end of a spudger to peel up the volume control flex cable.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to peel up the volume control flex cable.

Remove the volume control flex cable. During reassembly, put the volume control switch in place first, followed by the mute switch.
  • Remove the volume control flex cable.

  • During reassembly, put the volume control switch in place first, followed by the mute switch.

Use the pointed tip of a spudger to nudge the volume control button covers out of their slots in the rear case. Use the pointed tip of a spudger to nudge the volume control button covers out of their slots in the rear case. Use the pointed tip of a spudger to nudge the volume control button covers out of their slots in the rear case.
  • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to nudge the volume control button covers out of their slots in the rear case.

Remove the volume control button covers. Remove the volume control button covers.
  • Remove the volume control button covers.

Only the rear case remains.
  • Only the rear case remains.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Evan Noronha

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