Introduction

Follow the steps in this guide to replace the FaceTime camera and sensor assembly flex cable in an iPhone 6s Plus.

Image 1/1: Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.4 mm Pentalobe screws on either side of the Lightning port.

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Image 1/1: Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.
  • Opening the display on the 6s Plus separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.

  • Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.

take out screws first!!

Yoav Karmon - Reply

Image 1/2: Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case. Image 2/2: Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.
  • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

  • Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

I had a shattered front glass panel so I could not get the suction cup to seal properly. I tried a couple of different ways to get good suction but to no avail. I eventually used a Stanley knife to pry up the corner so I could get the spudger into the opening.

John Architzel - Reply

A really high quality packing tape over the entire screen will usually be enough to use the suction cup on a shattered screen.

djwooten -

Image 1/3: While still maintaining pressure on the suction cup, insert the flat tip of a spudger into the gap, directly above the headphone jack. Image 2/3: While still maintaining pressure on the suction cup, insert the flat tip of a spudger into the gap, directly above the headphone jack. Image 3/3: While still maintaining pressure on the suction cup, insert the flat tip of a spudger into the gap, directly above the headphone jack.
  • The safest place to pry from is the notch in the front panel above the headphone jack.

  • While still maintaining pressure on the suction cup, insert the flat tip of a spudger into the gap, directly above the headphone jack.

This was by far the hardest part of the repair for me. Getting leverage while finding a way to prod with a spudger is a challenge in coordination. I used a second spudger with point holding the phone down by the headphone jack, with the other end of the spudger anchored to my desk.

drpotter - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel and the rear case.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • While firmly pulling up on the suction cup, slide the edge of the spudger under the bottom left corner of the display.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Slide the tip of the spudger up the left side of the phone, between the front panel and the rear case.

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Image 1/2: Slide the spudger up the right side. Image 2/2: Slide the spudger up the right side.
  • Insert the flat tip of the spudger under the right edge of the display.

  • Slide the spudger up the right side.

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Image 1/2: Do '''''not''''' remove the display completely, or you will damage the data cables connecting the display near the top edge of the iPhone. Image 2/2: Do '''''not''''' remove the display completely, or you will damage the data cables connecting the display near the top edge of the iPhone.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to hold down the rear case while pulling up the suction cup to open the phone.

    • Do not remove the display completely, or you will damage the data cables connecting the display near the top edge of the iPhone.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the display.

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Image 1/3: Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone. Image 2/3: Don't open the display more than 90º—it is still connected to the top of the phone by the display, digitizer, and front camera cables which can tear easily. Image 3/3: Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
  • Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Don't open the display more than 90º—it is still connected to the top of the phone by the display, digitizer, and front camera cables which can tear easily.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to support the display.

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Image 1/1: One 2.9 mm screw
  • Remove the following Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket to the logic board:

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 2.3 mm screw

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the battery connector bracket.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Use the pointed tip of the spudger to disconnect the battery connector from the logic board.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Bend the connector back to ensure it doesn't make contact and power the iPhone on while you're working on it.

See my comment at the end of the procedure. If you work carefully, you need not remove the logic board and can skip ahead to step 38 after completing this step (disconnecting battery).

Mark Cousins - Reply

Image 1/1: Three 1.3 mm screws
  • Remove the following Phillips screws:

    • Three 1.3 mm screws

    • One 1.6 mm screw

    • One 3.0 mm screw

      • During reassembly, it's critical to place this 3.0 mm screw in the top-right corner of the bracket. Placing it anywhere else may damage the logic board.

I really don't see value in removing screen use box and rubber band keep at 90 degrees.

John Parker - Reply

I leave screen on as well for this. - Tho I prefer a 45 degree lean.

Thor -

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the display cable bracket.

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Image 1/2: Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector. Image 2/2: Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.
  • Be careful to only pry up on the connector itself and not the socket on the logic board.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

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Image 1/2: When reconnecting the digitizer cable, '''do not press the center of the connector'''. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage. Image 2/2: When reconnecting the digitizer cable, '''do not press the center of the connector'''. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

  • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the display data cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

How much is this to replace?

Alistair knight - Reply

And where could I buy from?

Alistair knight - Reply

Image 1/2: During reassembly, pause here if you wish to [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+Display+Adhesive+Replacement/93983|replace the adhesive around the edges of the display|new_window=true]. Image 2/2: During reassembly, pause here if you wish to [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+Display+Adhesive+Replacement/93983|replace the adhesive around the edges of the display|new_window=true].

You need to clarify where exactly these "adhesive strips around the display" are, what they look like, and where to purchase new ones from.

Anthony - Reply

You can see what they look like in this blog post. Hopefully we'll have replacement adhesive strips available in the future, but right now I don't know of any suppliers. Your phone will work fine without replacing the adhesive—if I had to guess, I'd say it's there as a little extra insurance against display wobble now that 3D Touch has users pushing harder on their phones.

Jeff Suovanen -

We now have a detailed guide for replacing the adhesive strips, and we should have them in stock soon. The guide has been updated to reflect this.

Jeff Suovanen -

Image 1/1: Two 2.7 mm screws
  • Remove the following three Phillips screws:

    • Two 2.7 mm screws

    • One 1.4 mm screw

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the earpiece speaker bracket.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the FaceTime camera out of its housing.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Pull the FaceTime camera back and remove the earpiece speaker.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to lift the ambient light sensor from its housing in the front panel.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Insert the pointed tip of a spudger between the microphone flex cable and the front panel to break the adhesive holding it in place.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Use the flat tip of a spudger to lift up the microphone and earpiece gasket.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the FaceTime camera and sensor assembly.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

22 other people completed this guide.

Evan Noronha

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7 Comments

front camera not working but the problem not from the camera i checked, i do not know the reason, please help

Asmaa Adel - Reply

Hello together

I changed this Kabel now the 6. Time. But the auto-brightness didn't work. When I install the old cable it works (microphone damaged). I try some descriptions of calibration, but it didn't work. Can somebody help me. Thanks.

Best regards from Germany.

Hogen.

Hogen - Reply

It sounds like your ambient light sensor (step 26) is damaged or incorrectly placed. Reinstall the flex cable to ensure the sensor is sitting correctly in its housing. If that does not work, get in touch with your parts supplier and request a replacement.

Evan Noronha -

Hm but I have now the 6th cable! That is not realistic that all cable are broken or?

Also when I only connect the cable (without installing in to the display) it didn't work (for all 6 cable). The original work. It's crazy.

Hogen -

No, it's super unlikely that 6 cables in a row are all broken, but if the original flex cable works while the other 6 do not, the problem is almost certainly in the cable. Maybe order a part from a different distributor and see if you have better luck?

Evan Noronha -

I received the part to replace my front camera and sensor cable but the part does not fit my phone. This part is for a 6s plus. The part is fine, but the shape of it will not allow proper installation due to the curved cable.

Desmond Oliver - Reply

@Desmond Oliver That is normal. All cable what i recived are in a flat condition and must be curved into the right way.

I try now the 8 cable and also the auto-brightness is not working fine. When i install the original one it works but there is the microphone damaged. i had the feeling that i must calibrate the sensor but i didn't now how. All procedure what i find are not working . I hope someone can help me.

Hogen - Reply

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