Introduction

Use this guide if your new display assembly comes with the front-facing camera and sensor assembly and the display EMI shield already installed. All you need to do is remove the old display assembly and transfer the home button to the new display assembly.

If your replacement display does not include those parts, follow the longer version of this guide here.

In either case, it's important to transfer the original home button onto the new display in order for Touch ID to function.

You can also use this guide to replace the display cable bracket.

Video Overview

  1. Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm Pentalobe screws on either side of the Lightning port.

    Make sure you use the correct screw driver tip to remove these screws, which for the iPhone 6s Plus is the P2, otherwise you may strip the tip of the screw making it 10 times harder to remove. If once the screw is lose, it will not come off, use a magnet to remove it.

    Miguel Perez - Reply

    If I do it by myself, will it damage the water resistant strip?

    I know iphone 7 have it ,but I am not sure 6s plus have it.

    Ganqian Zhu - Reply

    iPhone 6s has an adhesive gasket under the display, similar to the iPhone 7—however, it doesn’t add much in the way of waterproofing since the 6s has non-sealed openings in other parts of the phone. Water resistance on the 6s is primarily internal (seals around the logic board connectors, etc.). It may still be worthwhile to replace the adhesive on the 6s in order to help keep the display firmly seated so it doesn’t move/wobble at all under pressure, but the phone will continue to work fine whether you replace the adhesive or not.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Salve nella procedura iniziale di smontaggio display con la ventosa non è menzionato il fatto di scaldare i lati del display per “ammorbidire” la striscia che incolla il display alla scocca.

    Non è necessaria la cosa o è consigliabile ?

    grazie

    Hello, in the initial disassembling procedure with the suction cup, it is not mentioned how to heat the sides of the display to "soften" the strip that glues the display to the body.

    Is not the thing necessary or is it advisable?

    thank you

    Daniele - Reply

    How do I know that the Battery has ZERO Charging Cycles on it when it arrives ? Is there a (downside) to Higher Capacity batteries ? It is INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT to maintain a “Zero Chinese Products Lifestyle”, so how do I know that I’m not getting a deficient Chinese battery, potentially a refurb. battery ?

    integritybuilders - Reply

    When your repair is complete, you can use coconutBattery to check your new battery stats and cycle count. (A properly tested battery may already have a charge cycle or two on it.) Avoid higher capacity batteries on iPhones—they’re generally either gimmicks, unsafe, or both. As far as the quality of the part, that comes down to how much you trust your supplier and whether they guarantee the product.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  2. If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

      • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

    • If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.

    Tape doesn’t hold. suction cup doesn’t work. Tape folded over doesn’t work as a handle. I’ve used 3m’ s Gorilla duct tape. The glass is so shattered I cant get a point started to remove the glass. Phone has been in an otter box for years. dropped it and shattered glass while replacing case. Now what?

    Martin Speedy - Reply

    When all else fails, you can superglue your suction cup (or tape) to the display, wait for it to cure, and pull.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I had issues getting the suction cup to stick on my cracked screen, so I tried using scotch tape (only tape I had around), but it didn’t work. This best thing I did was to forcefully pry the screen off (I wasn’t worried about damages because it’s already cracked) with the spudger. I think its best to find something stickier (like Duct Tape) and used that to lift up the screen.

    Definitely surprised how sticky the adhesive was.

    Jeffrey Robinos - Reply

    When using packing tape: the suction won’t hold well with the overlapping pieces, so add a square of tape where you want to put the suction cup, so it will provide an unbroken surface for the seal.

    Christa - Reply

    It’s amazing how a heat gun or hair dryer makes life easier to soften up the adhesive. Then use a thin iSesame opening tool to get in under the screen (start @ 90 degrees/vertical either side of the home button & slowly go horizontal) the need to use suction cups. Run the opening tool along the front and down both sides to cut the adhesive before trying to lift the screen.

    Cheers Wayne

    Wayne Lyell - Reply

    • Opening the display on the 6s Plus separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.

    • Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.

    take out screws first!!

    Yoav Karmon - Reply

    Make sure you use the right screw driver tip for i phone 6s Plus, which is the P-2. If the screw will not come off once is lose, try using a magnet.

    Miguel Perez - Reply

    My cracked screen prevented the suction cup from sealing. SOLUTION: With a piece of clear packing tape across the screen, the suction cup will seal and pull.

    Jim Cowles - Reply

    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    I had a shattered front glass panel so I could not get the suction cup to seal properly. I tried a couple of different ways to get good suction but to no avail. I eventually used a Stanley knife to pry up the corner so I could get the spudger into the opening.

    John Architzel - Reply

    A really high quality packing tape over the entire screen will usually be enough to use the suction cup on a shattered screen.

    djwooten -

    I used a suction cup on each side to provide counter traction. I braced the iphone between my knees and pulled apart while my helper inserted the spudger

    jkanne - Reply

    This was by FAR the most difficult part of this whole thing. I confess the spudger was not cutting it so I used a butter knife to get into the small opening first, then used the spudger to go around the screen.

    Julie Sanchez - Reply

    Hey everyone, if you never have done this part before be aware there is an extremely strong adhesive around the lip of the screen and once again is extremely strong. I had to get a friend to insert the pry/pick into the small gap while I used one hand to brace the phone down and the other to pull the suction cup without it digging into my hand. Go slow, it took me 5 tries because I didn’t realize how strong the adhesive was.

    bartmistrot - Reply

    I also had a badly cracked lower screen - that glass was actually threatening to pull off the phone in chunks during this step, even with packing tape. Resorted to @j2arch’s tip and inserted a utility knife vertically into the seam between the display and phone body. Was able to lever the glass enough to get the spudger in there.

    Jason Augustyn - Reply

    I have replaced sevrel screens for my sister in law and my niece. The packing tape has worked every time and that’s with it Shattered and pieces already falling out. You have to make sure the packing tape goes to the edge of the screen but doesn’t touch the frame. I have the plier like screen remover and use that it is much easier to remove the screen by your self with that tool. I also have the little finger suction cup that comes with the kit here. I bought the plier suction cup tool When I had to replace the screen that had the pieces of the screen missing and I don’t regret spending the extra money for that it has made a world of difference. I do this as a hobby it’s not a job for me. The electric divide repair kit from Lowe’s is also a very good kit to help. If you’re only going to do it once the kit that comes with the package is a great deal from ifixit. Well worth the money to spend the little extra to get the kit if you all ready don’t have the tools.

    Brent - Reply

    If you try to use the spunger near the home button and try to pry it can crack your screen. This happened to me.

    Jeffrey - Reply

    • The safest place to pry from is the notch in the front panel above the headphone jack.

    • While still maintaining pressure on the suction cup, insert the flat tip of a spudger into the gap, directly above the headphone jack.

    This was by far the hardest part of the repair for me. Getting leverage while finding a way to prod with a spudger is a challenge in coordination. I used a second spudger with point holding the phone down by the headphone jack, with the other end of the spudger anchored to my desk.

    drpotter - Reply

    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel and the rear case.

    just changed the screen, but due to the tape along side the screen , it is best to heat a little so the glue losses and you can get the screen off better, like indicated

    Bart Blanckaert - Reply

    • While firmly pulling up on the suction cup, slide the edge of the spudger under the bottom left corner of the display.

    Add Comment

    • Slide the tip of the spudger up the left side of the phone, between the front panel and the rear case.

    Add Comment

    • Insert the flat tip of the spudger under the right edge of the display.

    • Slide the spudger up the right side.

    Add Comment

    • Use a plastic opening tool to hold down the rear case while pulling up the suction cup to open the phone.

      • Do not remove the display completely, or you will damage the data cables connecting the display near the top edge of the iPhone.

    Add Comment

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    • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the display.

    Remember to apply the screen gasket on the re-assemble. The gasket is provided in the kit but not mentioned here on the instructions.

    Won Hong - Reply

    There’s a link to the entire gasket replacement procedure in Step 21.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.

    • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

      • Don't open the display more than 90º—it is still connected to the top of the phone by the display, digitizer, and front camera cables which can tear easily.

      • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

      • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to support the display.

    Add Comment

    • Remove two Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:

      • One 2.9 mm screw

      • One 2.3 mm screw

    • Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.

    FYI - I used some blue painters tape wrapped around a piece of cardboard to hold the screws and brackets in place, in order, so they did not get lost. Some of those screws are MICROSCOPIC so be careful!

    I also suggest having very good lighting, even a camping headlight for hands-free well lit work space. You will thank me later :-)

    Julie Sanchez - Reply

    Use the bit labeled “PH000”.

    Joe Teichert - Reply

    PH000 bit just wants to free-spin in the 2.3 mm screw. no bite in the head at all. had no difficulty removing the 2.9 mm screw with the same Phillips. had to abandon battery replacement effort.

    Benjamin Stalcup - Reply

    For this part, neither PH000 or Y000 worked. Technically, it’ll set you back 31$ because you will need the PH00 screwdriver for this part, and the part where you need to open the screen. They have ph00 screwdrivers in every hardware store and even ifixit.com. just know that they put the wrong screwheads for you

    Jack Daniel - Reply

    • Remove the battery connector bracket.

    Does it matter if the brackets arent put back in the phone? I bought a used phone and brackets are missing. Thanks!

    Coupon Crazy - Reply

    • Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up off the logic board.

    Add Comment

    • Bend the connector back to ensure it doesn't make contact and power the iPhone on while you're working on it.

    See my comment at the end of the procedure. If you work carefully, you need not remove the logic board and can skip ahead to step 38 after completing this step (disconnecting battery).

    Mark Cousins - Reply

    When putting the new battery in, make sure to line up the plug and not to the top of the battery… our battery was smaller so the plug would NOT have lined up if we used the top of the battery. ALSO, the plug was NOT 90 degrees so we had to finagle the plug. Also, make sure there is a clear CLICK when you plug in the connector or it may not work. Ours went in but guess didn’t go far enough so we had to take the screen off and push it harder until we heard the “click” then it worked fine.

    Won Hong - Reply

    • Remove the following Phillips screws:

      • Three 1.3 mm screws

      • One 1.6 mm screw

      • One 3.0 mm screw

        • During reassembly, it's critical to place this 3.0 mm screw in the top-right corner of the bracket. Placing it anywhere else may damage the logic board.

    I really don't see value in removing screen use box and rubber band keep at 90 degrees.

    John Parker - Reply

    I leave screen on as well for this. - Tho I prefer a 45 degree lean.

    Thor -

    I just changed my battery and also left the screen attached. I was lucky enough to get all 3 adhesive battery strips out clean so I didn’t have a struggle with the battery coming out. If I was going to need to get rough with it I was going to take the screen off at that point.

    Michael Gross - Reply

    To keep track of screws, draw a quick outline of the display cable bracket/cover, with five dots where screws should be. Drop the screws on the corresponding dot. Helps if you use magnet pad.

    Christa - Reply

    Better yet, print out the pictures from the iFixit website, and use clear tape (“Scotch tape”) to TAPE the screws onto the place in the picture where they belong.

    Tom -

    Which screwdriver from the kit do I use for which screw?

    Shiva Sharma - Reply

    I made a mistake and unscrewed the screw just north north west of the one circled in yellow. Of course I lost the screw. Can anyone give me any guidance about this? what does the wire connected to it do? What is the size of the screw, in case I have to replace it?

    P.S. This is another reason to consider the possibility of NOT removing the screen just to replace the battery: removing the screen presents a additional possible headache, especially for people like me with bad eyesight who probably shouldn’t be doing this in the first place.

    Tom - Reply

    • Remove the display cable bracket.

    Add Comment

    • Be careful to only pry up on the connector itself and not the socket on the logic board.

    • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

    FYI, in the video she uses the spudger for this but I think either one will work.

    Julie Sanchez - Reply

    • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

    • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

    Thanks you i fix it

    God Hand - Reply

    “When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage. “

    The following note above was so helpful. I was speeding through the process of getting things back together, since it seemed easy to connect the digitizer cable, but I kept pushing it in the middle and I wouldn’t connect. Until I read through this step and realized it was easier if I would’ve connected one side and then the opposite side right after.

    Jeffrey Robinos - Reply

    Don’t be too shy when pushing the ends of the digitizer connector back to place. If it does not connect properly, you might face the “half backlight” problem, even if you did not kill any LCD filter. Also check carefully, that you don’t clamp parts of the sticky sealing material placed around the connector inside the connection area.

    Norbert Andreas Richartz - Reply

    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

    • Disconnect the display cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

    How much is this to replace?

    Alistair knight - Reply

    And where could I buy from?

    Alistair knight - Reply

    After finishing the assembly I got the message “Touch ID cannot be enabled on this phone”. I found this connector was loose. Plugged it back in and that fixed it.

    Bryan Province - Reply

    Always make sure to disconnect the battery before you do any work on the phone replacing any parts the digitizer or anything. And before you start make sure the phone is turned off you don’t want any power surges. If you also have a static electricity bracelet that also is a plus to use but isn’t a necessity just a nice piece of mind. Some cases you do need to use one so you don’t discharge static electricity to an electrical component and mess it up.

    Brent - Reply

    Be very careful in this step. I noticed it’s very easy to tear the flex when trying to lift it out of its socket from the right side.

    shoeib - Reply

    What is the cable and how is it connected/fixed to the motherboard between the bottom socket and the screw hole.

    Mine came loose somehow?

    Jason Engelsman - Reply

    I figured out my own question its the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable. But how is it connected/secured to the motherboard?

    Jason Engelsman - Reply

  4. You need to clarify where exactly these "adhesive strips around the display" are, what they look like, and where to purchase new ones from.

    Anthony - Reply

    You can see what they look like in this blog post. Hopefully we'll have replacement adhesive strips available in the future, but right now I don't know of any suppliers. Your phone will work fine without replacing the adhesive—if I had to guess, I'd say it's there as a little extra insurance against display wobble now that 3D Touch has users pushing harder on their phones.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    We now have a detailed guide for replacing the adhesive strips, and we should have them in stock soon. The guide has been updated to reflect this.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    For instructions on home button swap out to the new screen you just installed, go here

    iPhone 6s Plus Home Button Assembly Replacement

    Superior Office Systems - Reply

    Do you know whether the adhesive contributes to waterproofing, or just for stability/adhesion?

    Christa - Reply

    @kitabel The iPhone 6s case isn’t waterproof, so I don’t think adhesive around the display is contributing anything other than stability. The 6s series does have some water resistance, but it’s mostly internal and not something Apple advertises.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the home button bracket.

    Maybe this should be totally obvious, but it took me a minute or two to realize that this step is performed on the DISPLAY ASSEMBLY that was just removed, rather than the main body of the phone, which is the part on which all the previous steps were performed.

    Tom - Reply

    The new display came with a 1.9mm screw installed (the top left one above). This must be removed before putting back the home button bracket. It took me way too long to realize why I couldn’t thread the old screw back into the hole.

    Brandon Mathew - Reply

    • Remove the home button bracket.

    Add Comment

    • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable from its connector on the display assembly.

    Gently: this piece is attached to the plastic cabling, not the surface of the phone

    Christa - Reply

    • The rubber gasket surrounding the home button is very thin and tears easily.

    • Apply mild heat (with an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer) to soften the adhesive securing the home button gasket.

    • Using your fingertip, gently press up on the home button from the front side of the display assembly. Use firm, constant pressure to slowly separate the home button's rubber gasket from the front panel.

    “The gasket is very thin and will tear easily. Apply steady pressure and give it time to separate. “

    The note above was very helpful. It really is thin and for one second I thought I punctured a whole through it, so be careful.

    Jeffrey Robinos - Reply

    I did this on 2 separate phones. The first time, I did it according to directions, and it worked well. However, the adhesive pulled off in the process. On the 2nd phone I used a handwarmer to slightly warm the home button area. (I think an iOpener would work best, but I didn’t have one on hand). With the constant pressure after being heated, the home button assembly came off easily, and the adhesive stayed in place. I’ll definitely use slight heat in the future for this step as it seems to lessen the possibility of damaging the assembly.

    Jami - Reply

    I would have liked to see the heating instructions on this page. I only saw it once I re-watched the video as I was having trouble getting the button out. iFixit would have made another sale had it been obvious that the heating pad would come in handy. I ended up using a microwave heating pad instead. Worked fine.

    Scott - Reply

    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry the lightly-adhered home button flex cable off the display assembly.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the home button assembly.

    Make sure you remove any broken glass from around the button edges. Took me a few times to realize it had some glass on it.

    johnarchitzel - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

324 other people completed this guide.

Jeff Suovanen

Member since: 08/06/2013

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53 Comments

What do you do about the 3D touch?

Brayden Weller - Reply

The 3D Touch sensor should be integrated into the replacement part that you buy. If you check out our display teardown you can see that it's embedded two layers deep in the display assembly, so there are no discrete parts you need to worry about.

Evan Noronha -

it's great, thanks

sharonsl - Reply

And if you replace the home button with a new one the finger sensor usually don't work again

Michael Kimmel - Reply

This is because the home button that originally comes with the phone is "married" is married to the phone. This connection can never be returned if home button is broken or replaced. That in turn makes touch id not work because its not coded to the phone. Apple can not remarry phones in case anybody was wondering. Take good care of your home button

massacre13581 -

Awesome step-by-step guide. You have passed on a huge wealth of information and saved me gobs-o-ca$h! I am indebted to you and will now and forever, patronize your store. Thanks very much! Darrell

cazrnbsn - Reply

I need help on step 16. I got the bag with screws and the plate. I purchase also the Ifixit digital caliper. I can not find the screews. I clean the. plates as normally do, put that on cero(0) and star measures all of it. I got 3.05mm in one. 1.69 on others. ant ideas there. please a little help since with I order that the customer services did not get me help on that area. the plate has 4. three 1.3mm one 1.6mm and one 3.0 mm

Carlos De Bernard - Reply

Screw measurements in these guides are always rounded to the nearest tenth of a mm, so don't worry about trying to be more exact than that. Manufacturing tolerances and the margin of error on your caliper will make for inconsistent measurements in the hundredths of a mm range.

Jeff Suovanen -

Had bought a new screen pulled from another iPhone 6s Plus so... it worked! Great guide! and first time operating on a 6S PLUS!

SerJay - Reply

I'm having an issue. This phone I'm working on was VERY damaged. The screen crumbled off like peanut brittle. When I installed the new screen, I have sound and i Have touch sensitivity, but the LCD won't light up. No picture! Even the broken screen had a picture! What gives?

Matthew Joseph Shaker - Reply

Matthew Joseph Shaker, I suspect that one of the display connectors isn't seated properly (this has happened to me on more than one occasion). I would re-open the phone, and check the connectors in step 18 through step 20 (I would suspect it is the connector in step 20 not connected properly). Give this is a shot and let us know if that fixes the problem!

Scott Havard -

Im having an issue i repaired my iphone 6s plus noticed that i left out the little thing that goes with the front facing camera i put that in its place then put everything else back together and now the screen wont come on what could be the problem?

Kaderrin Hollins - Reply

I replaced mine and everything is great except the display has a slight fade from left to right. How do I fix that?

srf_green - Reply

more than any of the other iPhone models, we seem to have customers return their 6s Plus screen replacements claiming touch issues after our repair. we use OEM certified assembly replacements and stick with the same reputable vendors we have used over the years. the returns seem to come in droves. months without a return and then 3-5 returns in one week for a couple weeks in a row. just curious if anyone else has noticed such issue or has an explanation to the phenomenon.

Steve B -

It's a bit unclear, is the adhesive (home button) enough to stick to the new display when i move it over or do i need to replace some part from it to move it over to the new frame ?

Mihai - Reply

Nope, no additional parts to replace. The adhesive just seals the little rubber gasket around the home button in place, preventing water and dust intrusion. The actual home button is held in place by sturdier stuff (the bracket, screws, and the display itself).

Jeff Suovanen -

If you do not disconnect the battery while doing this can it mess anything up?

dylynflorence - Reply

Don't skip disconnecting the battery. As a rule of thumb you should never perform electronics repairs while the device is still connected to power. In the case of iPhones, leaving the battery connected while you remove the display cables can blow the backlight circuit; at that point you're no longer in DIY territory and you'll need the help of a microsoldering pro to undo the damage. Can you take shortcuts and get away with it? Sure, sometimes... but disconnecting the battery is easy, so there's really no reason to risk it.

Jeff Suovanen -

This happened to me. I blew the backlight circuit on the motherboard.

I had the battery connected when plugging in the display cables.

Power was not on so it did not occur to me that it would be a problem.

Expensive mistake.

richlove -

I used a gel heating pad that I microwaved for 2 minutes to remove the Home button. I replaced a screen on an iPhone 6 a few months ago and removing the Home button was the most difficult part of the procedure. I damaged the Home button cable and had to replace that as well. On this repair, I used a gel heating pad that I microwaved for 2 minutes to remove the Home button. The heating pad was very hot, but not unbearable so. I left it on the Home button for about 30 secs and the button and cable came right off, I didn't even have to pry anything off.

Since this was the second time completing this procedure, it took me about 20 minutes from start to finish.

jlall - Reply

I was repairing an iPhone 6s today, just the 4.7 inch display. I had the battery plugged in while I was doing this. As I plugged in the LCD, I’ve seen smoke rise up. Was it because of the adhesive gasket around the connectors for the LCD & digitizer connectors. That maybe I had accidentally pinch in the adhesive within the connectors or was it because i didn’t disconnected the battery.

Osvaldo Banda - Reply

Is your phone still working? For your next repair, never forget to detach the battery connector!

Zaim -

Sounds to me like you blew the backlight diode. This is a common problem, and perfectly fixable, but requires board-level repair skills and equipment. Always disconnect the battery before beginning repairs!

Jeff Suovanen -

so i just replaced screen and battery on 6s plus from what i read can someone confirm that once the screen is replaced touch id will not work before i button this project up

austin vangelder - Reply

@firefighter709 Touch ID should work just fine after a screen replacement, as long as you carefully transfer your original home button to the new screen without damaging it.

Jeff Suovanen -

I replaced two screens and they are locking up every now and then does this mean the cables are not seated correctly or trash in between them please help thinking of taking apart and reseating after cleaning

michael - Reply

How well does the suction cup removal technique work if the display is shattered? Can I still get a decent seal?

David Weis - Reply

I recommend you to put some tape on the screen, so the suction cup can lift the display up

Zaim -

Is there a tutorial with details about the black adhesive seal of the display?

I saw the part for like 6.95 but didn’t find the guidance for the replacement. Can you help?

Laurent Marguerat - Reply

Hello, i have replaced tie screen the second time, but there is no option for automatic brightness to enable or disable, should t be there ? I have it on iPhone 5S on iPhone4 and on the iPhone8 Plus there it True Tone option … can you help me ?

I had already done soft and hard reset ? Will reinstalling of the iOS help ? I dint find anything about this feature here on the site or in the comments.

Anton Soukup - Reply

After i replace the digitalizer i feel that the top right corner of the Iphone 6s plus is warm, is that normal??

Carlos - Reply

After replacing the screen and putting the phone back together, the backlight shines out of the hole where the camera is slightly. You can see it easily just looking at the phone. We bought the whole screen assembly, is there a way to adjust this, or do I need to send the part back for a new one?

Rhonda Tregay - Reply

Great guide. Followed it and was able to successfully replace the cracked screen. However, now I’m having an issue where there during phone calls, the screen would go dark. As if the pocket sensor is being triggered. Is there a fix?

Riannon Webb - Reply

So I've done a few 6pluses and the ribbon for the home button runs along the heat shield, so keeping the same heat shield and button kept I'd touch intact. However on the 6s pluses it's sandwiched between the digitizer lcd leaving only the heat shield if removed. I did not have luck keeping I'd touch with the 6s even with the original home button and heatshield, was this just an isolated case with mines? I've also heard doing a deep reset might fix it, have yet to try though, any input would be greatly appreciated.

Ani - Reply

Done, but no wifi afterward. Perhaps due to the struggle to remove the battery after the strips broke.

Garrett McWilliams - Reply

Update: Nor do I have Bluetooth. I looked at the article on bluetooth and wifi antenna and didn’t see anything that I’d knowingly damaged. Can anyone tell me what the most common cause would be for Bluetooth and wifi not to work after this? I believe it must be the antenna, as the two services do turn on and search for access points and bluetooth devices. The phone is able to connect to my fitbit if held right next to it. TIA.

Garrett McWilliams - Reply

Figured it out. There is a small RF connector next to the flat ribbon connectors that go up to the screen. It apparently popped off and became wedged under the circuit board when I installed the new battery. I did notice a bit of grey fluff floating around at one point and didn't realize what it was. Should have been wearing magnifiers. Oh well. At least the new screen and battery work fine.

Garrett McWilliams - Reply

What do I do if neither the ear speaker or the front facing camera work? Everything else is fine: proximity sensor, touch screen, home button, speakerphone speaker, etc. I’ve futzed with the connectors over and over, disassembled and reassembled the front-facing camera and sensor assembly multiple times. I’m afraid I may have damaged the connector for that assembly, can that whole assembly be purchased separately?

jiclark - Reply

I have replaced the screen twice both new screens have black spots/black shadowing in the top right corner of the display. I cannot think I’ve been sold two fualty screens by different sellers. Any ideas?

stephenjmurray - Reply

I followed the instructions as precisely as I could with my iFixit replacement screen for my wife’s iPhone.

After doing so, the external speaker is extremely quiet (as in, “useless”), and the TouchID doesn’t work. What connection did I damage, what connection did I not do properly, or is there a possibility that my replacement screen was defective? I presume that it is something that I did that I could maybe redo properly.

Kevin Kauffman - Reply

Great how to instructions. It was easy to follow and was done in under 15 mins.

Johnathan Barbeau - Reply

what if the home button popped out when i broke the phone and the cables are cut? do i order a screen with a home button?

Danny Serrano Jr. - Reply

How do you properly put the display connectors back on the respective sockets without messing up the logic board? I’m stuck on step # 21 (putting it back together) and everytime I move to another connector the other connector pops out and I have to start all over again. This is my first time tearing down an iPhone because my screen went black when I accidentally dropped and vertical lines start appearing on the screen. Can somebody help me please because I don't want to mess up the logic board putting this phone back together?

malik_gatson - Reply

Make sure the connector is perfectly positioned over the socket, and then press it down. That’s it. For the larger ones, press first on one side, then the other, rather than in the middle. In all cases, make sure the connector is correctly aligned, or you’ll bend the pins and/or damage the socket. If they’re popping out, you probably just haven’t connected them fully. Make sure the sockets are clean; if there’s any dirt or debris blocking the connector, blast it out with some compressed air and try again. If none of that works, you’ve got some kind of hardware problem—either a defective part, or possibly it’s not the right screen for your particular model iPhone.

Jeff Suovanen -

now my phone is not coming on I put it on the charger and now the screen will did I misplace a connector or something?

malik_gatson - Reply

*now the screen will not come on did I misplace a connector or something?

malik_gatson - Reply

Had received a flickering display/no display 6splus today. Replaced the folder and the charging port. The display was back, but seems like the battery is not charging now and continues to toggle automatically between 1%and 9%.The cell is switching off intermittently as well. What could be the issue?

ss uberoi - Reply

does on the iPhone 6s Plus LCD Screen and Digitizer Full Assembly screen come with 3d touch that will work ?or you have to use from the oem .. cuz my screen itsa broke and my 3d touch also its broken..

Michel Vi - Reply

The left-top portion of the image (whatever was displayed) was expanded and overlaid on the screen. I suspected a loose connection. I opened up the phone, disconnected and reconnected the connectors and reassembled the phone. The screen was fine for a few minutes but then the problem came back. Any idea how to fix this issue?

Rajendra Divecha - Reply

It’s mostly the top portion of the image that gets stretched and overlaid.

Rajendra Divecha -

Just done this, all was going perfect I tested the screen after before closing it down on the new gasket and it worked I turn it back off close the phone up and now it won't turn on. Any suggestions? Tried the power and home buttons together with no luck same goes for charging it. Is there a possibility I damaged the power button when closing up?

FG39v9.1 _ - Reply

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