Introduction

Follow the steps in this guide to replace the home button assembly, including the gasket and cable, in your iPhone 6s.

Please note that only the phone's original home button assembly will be capable of using the Touch ID fingerprint scanner. Installing a new home button will only restore ordinary home button functions, not the Touch ID features.

You can also use this guide to replace the home button bracket.

Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector.

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Opening the display on the 6s separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.
  • Opening the display on the 6s separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.

  • Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.

    • Take care not to place the suction cup over the home button.

Hello, I was wondering if there was a guide of how to replace the adhesive strips, thank you

Pablo Reyes - Reply

The suction cup will not work if you have a shattered screen. I put a tip of an exacto knife between the glass and side frame above the power connector, carefully pried up then used the spluger to pry the rest of the way up.

johnmurphyjr - Reply

Tape will work as well in order to create a smooth surface

Nick Stine -

Even tape didn’t work on my first shattered screen 6S disassembly. Had to reset to the exacto/thin blade technique.

Peter Bovey - Reply

For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.

Frank Terence - Reply

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices and is held down with adhesive.
  • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices and is held down with adhesive.

  • Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

No, really. Do this on a table and use less strength than you think. If you open the display the whole way at this step you can easily rip the home button connections and one of several display connections at the top. <— too much experience... :(

chuymatt - Reply

Wow, that was tough. Patience, patience, patience. Did not use the iOpener, just firm and consistent pulling with the phone on a flat surface. When the suction cup comes off... clean the display surface and go back at it. I did use the pointed end of a spudger inserted into the headphone jack to hold down the bottom case whilst I pulled on the suction cup. Once there was sufficient room (see next step) you can just get the spudger (flat end) to slide in slightly.

plisi - Reply

If you're lifting up on the glass, how are you supposed to hold the rest of the phone down? Is it by holding the camera end down with the side of your hand and rotating your hand, or using your other hand (not pictured) on the edges (seems very difficult), or using a spudger in a jack?

Bryan - Reply

On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

scentaur - Reply

My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

Heidi Moser - Reply

Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

amylofton - Reply

What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

Jaredrett - Reply

hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

David Althaus - Reply

Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!

Goodluck!!

-J

Jaredrett - Reply

The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

Jeff - Reply

Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

Todd Leach - Reply

Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

Mary Blocher - Reply

There is a notch on the underside of the display, just above the headphone jack. This is the safest place to begin prying the phone open. Place the flat edge of a spudger into the gap between the screen and rear case, directly above the headphone jack.
  • There is a notch on the underside of the display, just above the headphone jack. This is the safest place to begin prying the phone open.

  • Place the flat edge of a spudger into the gap between the screen and rear case, directly above the headphone jack.

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Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel assembly and the rest of the phone. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel assembly and the rest of the phone.
  • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel assembly and the rest of the phone.

No need to turn the spudger full 90°. Just turn it a little.

Martin Born - Reply

Insert the flat end of the spudger on the left side of the phone, between the display assembly and rear case. Slide the spudger up the side of the phone to separate the adhesive and pop the clips free.
  • Insert the flat end of the spudger on the left side of the phone, between the display assembly and rear case.

  • Slide the spudger up the side of the phone to separate the adhesive and pop the clips free.

I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.

Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.

Martin Born - Reply

Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.

Bryan Solo -

Remove the spudger and reinsert it on the bottom edge, where you pried the phone open. Slide the spudger to the right, along the bottom edge of the phone.
  • Remove the spudger and reinsert it on the bottom edge, where you pried the phone open.

  • Slide the spudger to the right, along the bottom edge of the phone.

I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.

Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.

Martin Born - Reply

Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.

Bryan Solo -

Slide the spudger up the right side to continue separating the adhesive and popping the display clips free from the iPhone. Slide the spudger up the right side to continue separating the adhesive and popping the display clips free from the iPhone.
  • Slide the spudger up the right side to continue separating the adhesive and popping the display clips free from the iPhone.

I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.

Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.

Martin Born - Reply

Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.

Bryan Solo -

Use the suction cup to open the display, breaking the last of the adhesive. Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.
  • Use the suction cup to open the display, breaking the last of the adhesive.

  • Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.

Prop it up on something

Nick Stine - Reply

Deck the Halls
With tools and Fix Kits
Pull up on the nub on the top side of the suction cup to remove it from the front panel. Pull up on the nub on the top side of the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
  • Pull up on the nub on the top side of the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

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Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge. Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone. Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
  • Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

Smart idea :)

x226 - Reply

on the third picture, the screen is opened more than 90 degrees.

Mirza Zohaib - Reply

It said about 90 degrees

Nick Stine -

In the second picture I was originally wondering what that diagonal piece of material was. Now that I've done a repair I can say that it's the sticky adhesive around the edge of the phone lifting up with the screen.

jonl - Reply

Remove the two Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket:
  • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket:

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 2.2 mm screw

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Remove the battery connector bracket from the iPhone. Remove the battery connector bracket from the iPhone.
  • Remove the battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

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Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
  • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Be sure not to skip this step. It is crucial. I have had many repairs where the screen will not light up after the repair if the battery had not been disconnected and reconnected.

Andrew spoelstra - Reply

Thanks for the tip, Andrew.

William Turner -

It should also be mentioned, DO NOT USE A METAL SPUDGER. You could short the battery to other nearby metal parts. I've done that, the battery clip arced to the metal cover on some of the logic board chips, and my phone wouldn't power back on for 3 days. They should put a caution caption on this step. I've had this happen on a 5S as well.

Frank - Reply

Thanks for the tip, Frank.

William Turner -

SERIOUS WARNING!: During *reassembly*, you should NOT reconnect the battery connector until the VERY LAST step (upon reassembly!), as many people, including myself, apparently have smoked (burned, destroyed) the main Logic board. This happens when you reconnect the LCD/digitizer assembly FPC cable. ifixit should modify this instruction to be very explicit about this!

enoughstatic - Reply

Push the battery connector away from the logic board until it stays separated from its socket, so as to avoid any accidental connection to the battery while you work. Push the battery connector away from the logic board until it stays separated from its socket, so as to avoid any accidental connection to the battery while you work.
  • Push the battery connector away from the logic board until it stays separated from its socket, so as to avoid any accidental connection to the battery while you work.

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Remove the following four Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket:
  • Remove the following four Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.8 mm screw

Thank you for this great guide!

I was able to skip removing the display assembly and logic board steps and lay the speaker upside down on the bottom edge of the logic board without putting undue pressure on the antenna cable making this a much easier and quicker repair for me. If you choose to leave the display assembly connected, I recommend using a rubber band to hold it to a box of similar size at a 90 degree angle to prevent damage and stress to the attached cables.

So, the steps I skipped were Steps 16 through 34 and Steps 37 through 45.

scentaur - Reply

The 1.2mm screw in the top left corner is refusing to come out, any help?

Harry Allinson - Reply

why does the battery fix kit not include the #00 bit needed to unscrew all 3 1.2mm screws?!?! !#^&@@ off.

robertdjclark - Reply

Either a #00 or a #000 bit should work fine here. Some #0 bits will also work if the point is fine enough. Same goes for a lot of JIS bits. As long as it doesn't strip or slip, you're good.

Jeff Suovanen -

My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.

David Shaddock - Reply

The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?

anujfolsom - Reply

I actually followed all the guide but isn’t the front panel disassembly skippable? And if so what are the benefits of removing it? Cause i had quite a hard time putting back in the connectors of the 3 flex cables.

GiovanniB - Reply

I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.

Anyone have the same issue?

Evander Lorenz - Reply

A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. Don’t expect the cheap drivers with kits to last more than one disassembly-assembly, if that! Also don’t keep mangled bits or drivers…throw them out!!!

Peter Bovey - Reply

Remove the display cable bracket. Remove the display cable bracket.
  • Remove the display cable bracket.

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Use the flat end of a spudger, or a fingernail, to disconnect the front camera flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger, or a fingernail, to disconnect the front camera flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger, or a fingernail, to disconnect the front camera flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

Note carefully the order that they are removed.  My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence.  Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order.  After that they popped right into place.  The new cables don’t have the “fold” yet so display had to be held at 90 degrees until all three were installed and the cover reattached.

David Rogers - Reply

I pop up these screen connectors using my fingernail. After doing a lot of repairs, this is the easiest and fastest way to get them loose.

Kenneth Hilstan - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger, or a fingernail, to disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board. When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger, or a fingernail, to disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

  • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Recolor that "pinned" note about not pushing on the center in "RED" if you get a chance. Just sayin'.

William Turner - Reply

Good call. Thanks for the tip!

Evan Noronha -

I can't seem to get the digitizer cable to snap back into place. Any suggestions?

gbmazur - Reply

Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order. I had to remove the EMI shield (seven screws), and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble! The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one. When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it.

David Shaddock - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger, or a fingernail, to disconnect the display data cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger, or a fingernail, to disconnect the display data cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger, or a fingernail, to disconnect the display data cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on.

Bailey Duncan - Reply

Remove the display assembly.

If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive. The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive.

cdinger - Reply

There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work.

Ira Goldman - Reply

Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned.

Ira Goldman - Reply

Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board.

Bryan Solo - Reply

Remove the three 1.7 mm Phillips screws securing the home button bracket.
  • Remove the three 1.7 mm Phillips screws securing the home button bracket.

When reinstalling, I had to experiment with how tightly to turn the screws, I first turned them all the way in but the home button wouldn't 'click' at all then, so I loosened the left most screw a touch and now it clicks and feel perfect. Not sure which screw is technically the best to adjust.

amadscientist - Reply

When reinstalling the screws be careful not to over tighten and strip the holes.

John Livingston - Reply

INCOMPLETA

Manca tutta la parte che riguarda l’auricolare (altparlante o earpiece) che porta con se il rivelatore di prossimità e il microfono ambientale. Manca la descrizione delle plastiche da recuperare per essere riportate sul nuovo display. Manca la parte di separazione del touch controller dl backframe metallico (anch’esso da svitare e non menzionato in questo articolo…)

Insomma un tutorial incompleto e anche inutile, a mio avviso.

Mario Di Stefano - Reply

Lift the lower edge of the home button bracket until it clears the small peg on the right side. Slide the bracket out from under the EMI shield to remove it. Slide the bracket out from under the EMI shield to remove it.
  • Lift the lower edge of the home button bracket until it clears the small peg on the right side.

  • Slide the bracket out from under the EMI shield to remove it.

You have to lift it just a bit over the grey plastic knob on the left side.

Martin Born - Reply

Use a spudger to disconnect the home button connector by popping it out of its socket on the back of the display panel. Use a spudger to disconnect the home button connector by popping it out of its socket on the back of the display panel.
  • Use a spudger to disconnect the home button connector by popping it out of its socket on the back of the display panel.

Make sure you're not heating it before you've popped the connector from its socket or else the socket might come loose.

Sam Decrock - Reply

You may need to use 2 picks/spudgers to do this as I have found that the socket and connector do not disconnect so easily. Place 1 on the socket and use the other to disconnect the connector.

Bryan Solo - Reply

Gently press up on the home button from the front side of the display assembly to slowly separate the home button's rubber gasket from the front panel. The gasket is very thin and will tear easily. Apply steady pressure and give it time to separate.
  • Gently press up on the home button from the front side of the display assembly to slowly separate the home button's rubber gasket from the front panel.

    • The gasket is very thin and will tear easily. Apply steady pressure and give it time to separate.

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Use the pointed tip of a spudger to pry the home button flex cable off the back of the display panel. Use the pointed tip of a spudger to pry the home button flex cable off the back of the display panel.
  • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to pry the home button flex cable off the back of the display panel.

Add Comment

Remove the home button assembly. Remove the home button assembly.
  • Remove the home button assembly.

If you’re purchasing a replacement front panel part from ifixit, you can stop here. The remaining steps remove parts that are included with the replacement assembly.

John Livingston - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

46 other people completed this guide.

Evan Noronha

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12 Comments

So... how does this work as far as error 53 goes? I'm currently on ios 9.2, and cracked my home button. It still works, but it bothers me that it's cracked, however I don't really want to brick my phone in the process. Do I need to be on 9.3 before I replace the home button? Or does it not matter anymore? I'm kinda lost as far as that goes. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank You.

-Calvin

calvingeishirt - Reply

So my home button no longer works at all. I'm thinking the problem could be that I replaced my white screen (and home button) with a black screen from ifixit. Everything worked but the home button. Looks silly having a white home button on a black screen but its whatever. It no longer works though. The piece that was glued to the screen that the home button snaps into came unglued too? If that would do anything.. idk.. Any help would be appreciated. I assembled it back the way it was supposed to.

Tyler Fish - Reply

I have same issue. Replace screen from ifixit. And of course swap my home button and now unable to activate touch id. There is something fishy going on here

Pedro Rivera -

so I broke my home button when replacing a cracked glass. installed a new button now the ID touch dont work,. what is the fix?

stolijm - Reply

I have read on a few other of these tutorials that Touch ID will no longer work when you replace the original button. It is basically a security thing so that someone can't replace their button on your phone and access your phone. Either way, the home button will work, but bye bye biometrics.

pezatsea -

That has been a problem ever since the iPhone 5S. If you break your home button than sadly your touch will not work. There might be a way to clone the code from the chips on the home button to your new home button but i think anyone that would be able to do that would have to charge more than most would be willing to pay. lol

Gadget Tech - PDX -

the author forgot to mention that you have to remove and reuse the rubber gasket the is attached to the orig button. a very delicate procedure as the material is very thin. be slow and extra careful. warm it up first to soften the adhesive then slowly start to peal it away. if you screw this up your done as ifixit does NOT offer this small, delicate but ESSENTIAL part.

matt - Reply

The home button life span is over because it is the most used button and is being over used many time over considering as the million pressed and is dead so far the only consideration is ask Apple to spend some extra cost fora better part among all the parts assembled that my conclusion on the bug not a bug but a dead bug

Fiume Ricohard Mille - Reply

where i can buy new home button ID touch for iphone 6s but i need it work id touch ?

bader - Reply

Hi Bader, sadly Touch ID won't work anymore when you replace a home button. It's a security feature Apple implemented in order to protect your phone: otherwise, a criminal could have inserted his home button into your phone and unlock it with his fingerprints.

Jona Wolff -

So my iPhone 6s button stopped working so I replaced it. I am well aware that touch ID will no longer work, but the replacement button doesn’t work as a basic button either. Any tips on what else it could be or if I could have just had bad luck with a defective replacement button as well? Nothing else on this phone has ever been repaired.

John Mangan - Reply

Thank you for the guide. I did not replace my home button, but I opened the device to clean the button.

I did not feel anymore click before, but now it feels like new, I can feel the click sound.

iDara09 - Reply

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