Introduction

Use this guide if your new display assembly comes with the front-facing camera and sensor assembly and the display EMI shield already installed. All you need to do is remove the old display assembly and transfer the home button to the new display assembly.

If your replacement display does not include those parts, follow the longer version of this guide here.

In either case, it's important to transfer the original home button onto the new display in order for Touch ID (fingerprint scanning) to function.

You can also use this guide to replace the front panel assembly cable bracket.

Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector.

Hi, just got the repair kit that came with IPhone 6S battery. I felt that there’s no explanation on which tool to use to remove the two 3.4mm P2 Pentalobe screws. It’s not helpful just to say “Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector. “. It’s more important to explain how and what tool to use. The repair tool kit tools were not marked at all and it’s not right to assume that people know which tool or part to use. Please kindly address this issue. Thanks. Janet

Janet Monaghen - Reply

@beingchen For the P2 pentalobe screws you should use the driver bit marked P2. Might be a little hard to see but it’s there, etched into the side of the bit.

Jeff Suovanen -

It’s very clear which tool you need. As it says these are “3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws” - so you need a 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screwdriver…

alexanderbrix1987 - Reply

Just a P2 driver—3.4 mm is the length of the screw.

Jeff Suovanen -

If you can’t identify which screwdriver in the kit to use, you probably shouldn’t be working on your phone. Just sayin’

Keith Hockenbeck - Reply

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

  • If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.

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  • Opening the display on the 6s separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.

  • Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.

    • Take care not to place the suction cup over the home button.

Hello, I was wondering if there was a guide of how to replace the adhesive strips, thank you

Pablo Reyes - Reply

The suction cup will not work if you have a shattered screen. I put a tip of an exacto knife between the glass and side frame above the power connector, carefully pried up then used the spluger to pry the rest of the way up.

johnmurphyjr - Reply

Tape will work as well in order to create a smooth surface

Nick Stine -

Even tape didn’t work on my first shattered screen 6S disassembly. Had to reset to the exacto/thin blade technique.

Peter Bovey - Reply

For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.

Frank Terence - Reply

Can you use the iSclack opener to open the iPhone 6s?

Joe Koffee - Reply

The iSclack is helpful, although you have to use it a bit differently than you would on, say, a 5s or 6. The iSclack alone isn’t strong enough to pop the display open, because of all the adhesive around the perimeter of the 6s display. But you can use it to lift the display just enough to get a tool in there and start cutting the adhesive. Basically, the iSclack does the same job as the suction cup shown here, with maybe a bit less fuss.

Jeff Suovanen -

My screen was SUPER shattered… the hair dryer did the trick. Patience it definitely the key… I tried putting tape over the glass but the suction cup wouldn’t stick to it at all but it stuck to the broken glass for a few seconds. I taped it up when I was finally able to move onto the next steps to keep the glass from getting everywhere then peeled it off for Step 10.

Mandy Ng - Reply

Hi, it looks like, from reading the comments, that separating the display assembly from the phone is a tricky step.

Would the piece of equipment, in the link below, be any use at this stage? Seems it could be used for all makes and models.

Any info would be appreciated.

https://youtu.be/8it4o9tx8tQ

Michael Magor - Reply

I have a screen protector on my phone. I was wondering if it was going to be problem for the suction cup.

jeffreyleung2002 - Reply

  • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices and is held down with adhesive.

  • Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

  • If you have any trouble, heat the front of the iPhone using an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun until it's slightly too hot to touch. This will help soften the adhesive securing the edges of the display.

No, really. Do this on a table and use less strength than you think. If you open the display the whole way at this step you can easily rip the home button connections and one of several display connections at the top. <— too much experience... :(

chuymatt - Reply

Wow, that was tough. Patience, patience, patience. Did not use the iOpener, just firm and consistent pulling with the phone on a flat surface. When the suction cup comes off... clean the display surface and go back at it. I did use the pointed end of a spudger inserted into the headphone jack to hold down the bottom case whilst I pulled on the suction cup. Once there was sufficient room (see next step) you can just get the spudger (flat end) to slide in slightly.

plisi - Reply

If you're lifting up on the glass, how are you supposed to hold the rest of the phone down? Is it by holding the camera end down with the side of your hand and rotating your hand, or using your other hand (not pictured) on the edges (seems very difficult), or using a spudger in a jack?

Bryan - Reply

On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

scentaur - Reply

My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

Heidi Moser - Reply

Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

amylofton - Reply

What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

Jaredrett - Reply

hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

David Althaus - Reply

Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!

Goodluck!!

-J

Jaredrett - Reply

The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

Jeff - Reply

Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

Todd Leach - Reply

Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

Mary Blocher - Reply

Much easier to do using the Spudger that is provided in the Pro Tool Kit. It has a thinner fin type head. The Spudger provided in this repair kit is definitely too thick and makes it far more difficult.

Tyler Brady - Reply

The spudger is too thick and the glue is too strong. Pulling up broke the glass below the power button. Now I am out $200 for a repair, plus a battery. Bummer. I am VERY good at repairing things. The adhesive on this is very very strong. The pentalobe tip that they send with the kits not milled well and I had to take a file and flatten the tip to get it to work - it is not finished well at all. I used the kit for the iPhone 6 for my Mom and had no problem. I am 51 and have been fixing things since I was very young.

greghabiby - Reply

Well, I shattered my screen trying to do this. So now I need a battery and screen repair. Not happy.

Carolann Parran - Reply

Removing the display was the hardest part of the whole job. The adhesive is very strong, but just be patient. What I ended up doing was to use the suction cup, the flat end of the spudger, and an iFixit opening tool. I used the suction cup on the screen as directed. Then I placed the flat end of the spudger just a bit into the charging port and held down the phone body by the spudger on my work mat. I pulled up on the suction cup, pushed down on the spudger, and inserted the thin iFixit opening tool in the small seperation. I took my time and worked my way around all of the edges. After that it was really easy. I was able to reuse the adhesive, and my new battery install went just as planned.

Eric Olson - Reply

Use a hair dryer as per the suggestions and this will definitely make the job easier and reducing the risk of breaking the display . Keep a steady pull of the display, don’t rush and it will start to show the small separation gap. An issue is that it will go back in place if you stop pulling before you can use the spudger tool. The suction tool that came with my repair kit did not have a ring on it as per the guide picture. It has a blue handle that is open on the side. I sat at my kitchen desk and opened a drawer. I hooked the open edge of the suction handle around the drawer side edge which me a third hand. I held the phone with one hand and pulled it away from the desk drawer. Once the separation started I could use my other hand with the flat edge of the spudger to complete the separation. Hope this helps.

emaneht - Reply

  • There is a notch on the underside of the display, just above the headphone jack. This is the safest place to begin prying the phone open.

  • Place the flat edge of a spudger into the gap between the screen and rear case, directly above the headphone jack.

WARNING: easy to stretch/ruin the adhesive

As you proceed, know that you must keep ALL of the adhesive stuck to the phone. If any stays stuck to display, it can become permanently stretched as you are prying and lifting. Then you’ll need to buy the replacement adhesive, once it’s back in stock!

Jason - Reply

If you’re opening the phone at all, you’re compromising the adhesive. There is absolutely no way to somehow open it perfectly so you can re-use it. Fortunately, it’s cheap and fairly easy to replace—and not even that critical on the 6s series anyway, since it’s not doing any real waterproofing.

Jeff Suovanen -

  • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel assembly and the rest of the phone.

No need to turn the spudger full 90°. Just turn it a little.

Martin Born - Reply

  • Insert the flat end of the spudger on the left side of the phone, between the display assembly and rear case.

  • Slide the spudger up the side of the phone to separate the adhesive and pop the clips free.

I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.

Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.

Martin Born - Reply

Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.

Bryan Solo -

  • Remove the spudger and reinsert it on the bottom edge, where you pried the phone open.

  • Slide the spudger to the right, along the bottom edge of the phone.

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  • Slide the spudger up the right side to continue separating the adhesive and popping the display clips free from the iPhone.

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  • Use the suction cup to open the display, breaking the last of the adhesive.

  • Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.

Prop it up on something

Nick Stine - Reply

an old iPhone box and a rubber band lightly around the display works great to hold it at 90

Christa - Reply

  • Pull up on the nub on the top side of the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

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  • Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

Smart idea :)

x226 - Reply

on the third picture, the screen is opened more than 90 degrees.

Mirza Zohaib - Reply

It said about 90 degrees

Nick Stine -

In the second picture I was originally wondering what that diagonal piece of material was. Now that I've done a repair I can say that it's the sticky adhesive around the edge of the phone lifting up with the screen.

jonl - Reply

  • Remove two Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket, of the following lengths:

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 2.2 mm screw

  • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

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  • Remove the battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

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  • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Be sure not to skip this step. It is crucial. I have had many repairs where the screen will not light up after the repair if the battery had not been disconnected and reconnected.

Andrew spoelstra - Reply

Thanks for the tip, Andrew.

William Turner -

It should also be mentioned, DO NOT USE A METAL SPUDGER. You could short the battery to other nearby metal parts. I've done that, the battery clip arced to the metal cover on some of the logic board chips, and my phone wouldn't power back on for 3 days. They should put a caution caption on this step. I've had this happen on a 5S as well.

Frank - Reply

Thanks for the tip, Frank.

William Turner -

SERIOUS WARNING!: During *reassembly*, you should NOT reconnect the battery connector until the VERY LAST step (upon reassembly!), as many people, including myself, apparently have smoked (burned, destroyed) the main Logic board. This happens when you reconnect the LCD/digitizer assembly FPC cable. ifixit should modify this instruction to be very explicit about this!

enoughstatic - Reply

  • Push the battery connector away from the logic board until it stays separated from its socket, so as to avoid any accidental connection to the battery while you work.

If you remove the grey bar with the word “TAPTIC” next, removal of the battery adhesive is much easier. It can be pulled straighter back with less chance of tearing. Here’s an image with the securing screws identified.

If you securely anchor the screen to a can of soup, it is not necessary complete step 16 Front Panel Assembly. I was able to remove the two bottom (1.2 mm) screws and the 2.8 mm screw, but could not get the upper (1.2 mm) screw. I was able to remove the old battery with the Front Panel Assembly left in place.

Edward Dziuk - Reply

Hi what it is called black cover between battery connector and sim card tray? Thanks

Rajendra - Reply

  • Remove the following four Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.8 mm screw

Thank you for this great guide!

I was able to skip removing the display assembly and logic board steps and lay the speaker upside down on the bottom edge of the logic board without putting undue pressure on the antenna cable making this a much easier and quicker repair for me. If you choose to leave the display assembly connected, I recommend using a rubber band to hold it to a box of similar size at a 90 degree angle to prevent damage and stress to the attached cables.

So, the steps I skipped were Steps 16 through 34 and Steps 37 through 45.

scentaur - Reply

The 1.2mm screw in the top left corner is refusing to come out, any help?

Harry Allinson - Reply

why does the battery fix kit not include the #00 bit needed to unscrew all 3 1.2mm screws?!?! !#^&@@ off.

robertdjclark - Reply

Either a #00 or a #000 bit should work fine here. Some #0 bits will also work if the point is fine enough. Same goes for a lot of JIS bits. As long as it doesn't strip or slip, you're good.

Jeff Suovanen -

My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.

David Shaddock - Reply

The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?

anujfolsom - Reply

I actually followed all the guide but isn’t the front panel disassembly skippable? And if so what are the benefits of removing it? Cause i had quite a hard time putting back in the connectors of the 3 flex cables.

GiovanniB - Reply

I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.

Anyone have the same issue?

Evander Lorenz - Reply

A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. Don’t expect the cheap drivers with kits to last more than one disassembly-assembly, if that! Also don’t keep mangled bits or drivers…throw them out!!!

Peter Bovey - Reply

what crews  should I use in this step PH000. OR Y000 OR P2 Plz help me

mshary alzhrany - Reply

The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws! I had to remove it without removing the display.

Matthias Wagner - Reply

I too experienced a problem with the size of the screwdriver here (supplied in the iFixit kit.) My phone also had a 5th screw right in the center of the plate - another 1.2mm. I removed and replace it without problems.

Scott Young - Reply

@scottvyoung Sounds like you’re working on an iPhone 6. These instructions are for the 6s.

Jeff Suovanen -

Screws are very small and very difficult to put back in!! Lost 2-3 screws

Put phone back together and of course doesnt work Waste of Money!

Thomas Kintigh - Reply

I purchased a “screw set” for an i-Phone 5 and have slowly been cannibalizing it whenever I lose a screw. It has been invaluable and the set includes enough screws that I have been able to cover all that have been dropped and lost for 3 i-Phones now. Using a magnetic mat has also limited my screw loss considerably! All of these items were purchased through IFIXIT at very reasonable cost. Thank you IFIXIT!

Peter Bovey -

The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit. (disappointing) So, I used scentar’s (comment above) method of a large rubber band wrapped around a book weighted kit box to hold it at 90 degrees. Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery.

laffinbuz - Reply

  • Remove the display cable bracket.

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  • Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the front camera flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

Note carefully the order that they are removed.  My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence.  Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order.  After that they popped right into place.  The new cables don’t have the “fold” yet so display had to be held at 90 degrees until all three were installed and the cover reattached.

David Rogers - Reply

I pop up these screen connectors using my fingernail. After doing a lot of repairs, this is the easiest and fastest way to get them loose.

Kenneth Hilstan - Reply

  • Disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

  • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Recolor that "pinned" note about not pushing on the center in "RED" if you get a chance. Just sayin'.

William Turner - Reply

Good call. Thanks for the tip!

Evan Noronha -

I can't seem to get the digitizer cable to snap back into place. Any suggestions?

gbmazur - Reply

Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order. I had to remove the EMI shield (seven screws), and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble! The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one. When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it.

David Shaddock - Reply

  • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

  • Disconnect the display cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on.

Bailey Duncan - Reply

There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process, at least on my phone. The replacement screen also had 4, so no problem.

Scott Young - Reply

I am having a hard time reattaching the LCD cable. Is it possible I bent the connectors? Or possibly the gaskets around it are interfering? I’d like to just pull all of that waterproofing gasket off! >:(

Amanda Cooper (Doula) - Reply

Did you end up going this? My screen is black so I'm trying to figure out what i did

Alex Tanner -

I neglected to detach the battery before taking this step and upon reassembly I have no display. What might be my next step to repair.

Dennis Gagomiros - Reply

You can try reseating the cables, but the likely answer is that your logic board’s backlight circuit is blown. If you power on your phone and you can see an image on the display by shining a bright light on it, your backlight circuit is toast. This is a common repair and very fixable, but requires microsoldering equipment and expertise. It’s not a DIY.

Jeff Suovanen -

My screen replacement only comes with two flex cables but all of the videos are showing three. It is not working to connect the flex cables to the connectors

cellabella1 - Reply

The third flex cable would be for the front-facing camera, sensors, etc. If you bought a display that doesn’t include those components, you’ll need to transfer them to your new display first, and then you’ll be able to install it and plug everything in. The instructions are over here. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive. The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive.

cdinger - Reply

There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work.

Ira Goldman - Reply

Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned.

Ira Goldman - Reply

Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board.

Bryan Solo - Reply

My replacement display was not functional, but I didn’t test it until after my adhesive was already applied. Might be worth double-checking the replacement screen works before applying the adhesive at all. (though I’m glad I tried it before closing it up!)

Ben - Reply

When reconnecting to the logic board, reverse the order, so display first, then digitizer and finally camera. The front pannel slides into small edge of the backchannel. So start at the top when you put front and back together.

Joep Willemsen - Reply

be sure battery is disconnected before reassembling the display —in case you reconnected it to position battery

Christa - Reply

  • Remove the three 1.7 mm Phillips screws securing the home button bracket.

  • Do not over-tighten these screws as these can damage the front of the display.

When reinstalling, I had to experiment with how tightly to turn the screws, I first turned them all the way in but the home button wouldn't 'click' at all then, so I loosened the left most screw a touch and now it clicks and feel perfect. Not sure which screw is technically the best to adjust.

amadscientist - Reply

When reinstalling the screws be careful not to over tighten and strip the holes.

John Livingston - Reply

INCOMPLETA

Manca tutta la parte che riguarda l’auricolare (altparlante o earpiece) che porta con se il rivelatore di prossimità e il microfono ambientale. Manca la descrizione delle plastiche da recuperare per essere riportate sul nuovo display. Manca la parte di separazione del touch controller dl backframe metallico (anch’esso da svitare e non menzionato in questo articolo…)

Insomma un tutorial incompleto e anche inutile, a mio avviso.

Mario Di Stefano - Reply

When i assembled my new homebutton, I couldn’t mange to make it work properly. The screws, as described earlier, had to be adjusted but even this wasn’t enough. Once I put the iPhone case together and tightened up the screws it would push the metal cover all the way so the button wouldn’t click. After trying multiple screw settings I came to a somewhat unorthodox solution. I placed a piece of folded paper under the left corner of the metal cover. Now it wouldn`t press the button anymore and the paper keeps everything in place until fully reassembled.

max - Reply

  • Lift the lower edge of the home button bracket until it clears the small peg on the right side.

  • Slide the bracket out from under the EMI shield to remove it.

You have to lift it just a bit over the grey plastic knob on the left side.

Martin Born - Reply

  • Use a spudger to disconnect the home button connector by popping it out of its socket on the back of the display panel.

Make sure you're not heating it before you've popped the connector from its socket or else the socket might come loose.

Sam Decrock - Reply

You may need to use 2 picks/spudgers to do this as I have found that the socket and connector do not disconnect so easily. Place 1 on the socket and use the other to disconnect the connector.

Bryan Solo - Reply

Thanks, Bryan this helped a lot.

Antonio Gomez -

When I did this step, the home button connecter tore right off at the bend in the thin ribbon. Not sure how - I got through other somewhat delicate steps in this project without damaging anything.

Anyway, phone won’t even power up now (I put it back together hoping that I could navigate around the interface somehow without home button).

New home button assembly on order from iFixit.

John Matz - Reply

  • Gently press up on the home button from the front side of the display assembly to slowly separate the home button's rubber gasket from the front panel.

    • The gasket is very thin and will tear easily. Apply steady pressure and give it time to separate.

What happens if the gasket ends up as toast? I had to re-assemble without and hope for the best.

Todd Strack - Reply

I think its main function is to keep moisture and dust out. Short-term probably nothing bad will happen; long-term, I’d guess you might have higher risk of contamination or corrosion on internal components.

Jeff Suovanen -

The video shows the the tech heating the bottom at this so it releases easier. I heated mine with a hair dryer. Came off fine.

Patrick Egan - Reply

  • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to pry the home button flex cable off the back of the display panel.

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  • Remove the home button assembly.

If you’re purchasing a replacement front panel part from ifixit, you can stop here. The remaining steps remove parts that are included with the replacement assembly.

John Livingston - Reply

  • Only the front panel remains.

Thank you for a thorough and complete guide. The different views of each step helped tremendously. My daughter appreciates it as well, because that means I didn't have to deprive her of her phone for too long.!

Todd Chafin - Reply

On reassembly two very important things...1 - remember to remove the blue/green protective plastic cover from the back of the new screen before putting it back together. You will notice the tab sticking off to the right side of the screen near the volume buttons. 2- take special note of how the two tabs sticking out at the bottom of your replacement screen on either side of your home button. They should be close to vertical or perpendicular to the screen face or they won't be close enough to start the pentalobe screw when finishing the reassembly. Tried to post picture but couldn't figure out how to. You can do this! ;-)

David Althaus - Reply

also dont forget to remove the front camera, some digitizer kits donty include them

Thomas Judd - Reply

Install the new adhesive seal (the one you peeled off in step 3) before you install the new screen. I forgot and it was tricky to line up with with all the connectors in place.

Jim Wong - Reply

If you are doing this with an IFixit replacement it would be a good idea to also transfer over the light sensor and front facing camera assembly. Without the Apple sensor/camera assembly the screen will not auto adjust brightness. I did not learn about this until after my screen replacement. Unfortunately the digitizer I received from IFixit was faulty and I had to get a replacement. Because of this I was able to get my auto-brightness to work again by replacing the cables for the sensor/camera. Just a heads up to anyone looking to do this repair after me.

Joshua Mills - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

545 other people completed this guide.

Jeff Suovanen

Member since: 08/06/2013

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Muito bom. Já aprendi muito consultando os tutoriais da IFIXIT. Parabéns.

Eder Macario - Reply

Solution worked very well - a couple of comments: 1. With a cracked screen the suction cup doesn't hold very well, I was nevertheless able to get the screen corner off with some heavy prying above the headphone jack as suggested in step 4. 2. In the replacement part I received, the order of the digitizer and camera cables was reversed, I had to tuck the digitizer cable back under the camera cable to get them down in the correct order. Great pictures and guide from ifixit.

stread777 - Reply

Agree with both points. The guide is also missing steps (or mention of) moving the camera/sensor/etc to the new digitizer. I didn't think about it until I wondered why the old screen had 3 cables and the new one only had 2.

nerdatheart -

Thanks for the tip, I had the same issue with the suction cup not working on the cracked screen. Applying clear packaging tape over the screen helped but it still didn't come apart. Ended up using a blow dryer on the highest setting to help melt the adhesive around the bottom of the phone (being careful to not let it heat up too long) which eventually made it possible to wedge the spudge inside.

The guide and photos were great along with the replacement part from iFixit. Probably the easiest screen replacement I've done so far.

gotchay -

Try putting packing tape in the center of the screen. This will keep the glass chunks in and the suction cup will stick to it.

Michael St. Hilaire -

I jus replaced the display of my iPhone everything works correctly except for the light sensor, the auto brightness setting is now useless, everything else (camera, speaker, and such) works just fine. Any ideas why?

Enrique Gutierrez - Reply

You may have not properly seated the proximity sensor, check to assure all plastic label stickers have been removed from the from and that it is properly seated. If it is damaged you will have to purchase a new flex.

Alec -

you may have bent the ribbon cable on accident, those parts are very inexpensive and easy to replace.

Michael St. Hilaire -

Stread777 I found that using a wide clear packaging tape adhered to the display that is larger that the suction cup allows you to maintain suction and pull the display up to insert splunger.

I also had to reroute cables

stolz9708 - Reply

excellent guide 10/10

Margaret King - Reply

If your display assembly came with it's own "new" home button installed and the target broken phone has NEVER used the fingerprint function...can you use the one on the new assembly without iOS complaining?

William Turner - Reply

I really liked this guide but what i did not like was that it did not show how to remove the metal part from the screen, nor the speaker and camera. If possible please add this! Otherwise great guide as usual on ifixit!

Johan Andersson - Reply

You skipped the introduction, didn't you? :) The guide you want is right here.

Jeff Suovanen -

I have order several different iPhone 6S screens from my supplier. When testing the screens I noticed without any other components plugged in (proximity sensor) just the screen I can use touch unless I cover the ear speaker area. The display doesn't dim which I wouldn't expect it to without the proximity sensor plugged in. But, is this a bad screen or a sensor of some kind in the actual screen cabling that senses light without proximity sensor?

Brady Davidson - Reply

I have noticed with some cheaper 6S screens that the proximity sensor will not work. If that is the case for you make sure that you scratch off the black film that is on the glass where the proximity sensor is suppose to go. It is not the prettiest thing but it is functional!

Gadget Tech - PDX - Reply

I've disconnected the 3 seperate pins (display data, digitizer and camera flex) why when i search for a screen on say amazon or ebay do the replacements only have 2??

A Fearn - Reply

The third connector is for the front-facing camera flex/sensor assembly. A lot of screens are sold without it, so you have to transfer that part over from your old display before you reassemble everything. At the top of this guide, you'll find a link to a longer/alternate guide for transferring components over to a bare-bones replacement screen. If you prefer to save yourself the hassle, just stick with the guide you're seeing here and use the pre-assembled part linked at the top.

Jeff Suovanen -

Thank you for another excellent guide!

Christa - Reply

https://www.injuredgadgets.com/LCD_Scree...

The way the cables look on this one i'm guessing is correct, could someone please tell me if this is the right fit for Verizon iPhone 6s please or send me a link to the one i need to get!!!!

Bailey Duncan - Reply

That's an iPhone 6 display, as opposed to a 6s. They are not compatible. The correct part for the 6s is linked at the top of this guide.

Jeff Suovanen -

I replaced a screen and there's a "ghost touch" issue. Did I do something wrong or is it a defective display?

John Cavaliere - Reply

It could be the part itself is defective or you bent a ribbon cable while putting it together. I had a similar issue once. The LCD worked perfectly fine when I tested it before I popped the screen back on. When I popped the screen in it didn't work, when I popped the screen back out with the cables still connected it worked. I returned the screen and swapped it out with a new one and it worked fine.

TLDR: it's probably the replacement screen itself.

John Cavaliere -

I don't understand , i have different displays , different producer and in my 3 different iPhone 6S the same problem.

WAPIK -

Hi I jus replaced mine. Any idea why my cameras don't work

Front or back

Tashan O'Neal - Reply

WARNING!: You should NOT reconnect your battery FPC cable / connector until the VERY LAST reassembly step! Modify your reassembly procedure to move this "re-connection" of the battery connector until very last. I can't stress this enough. My logic board is now burned (it smoked upon reconnecting the LCD replacement part, because the battery was already reconnected and "live". The problem is that if you don't have the FPC connector aligned just perfect to the header (on the logic board), you create a momentary short (when the pins aren't aligned well)... this causes the Logic board to instantly burn. Save yourself trouble.

###You have been warned###

enoughstatic - Reply

Sorry to hear you had such a bad outcome. The guide directs you to disconnect the battery first and reconnect it last, which is the correct procedure (and just good practice for electronics repair in general). There is no danger if the steps are followed in order. I don't know if it's any consolation, but at this point you most likely have a blown backlight circuit, which is a straightforward fix for a good microsoldering expert. There are several that frequent our Answers forum, so you may want to reach out to one of them to see about restoring your phone to working order. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

I followed this tutorial to replace my broken iPhone 6s display, everything went fine, everything working after the replacement, but the display kind of has a pink hue to it. Does anybody have had the same impression? I mean, is that because of the quality of the replacement part or may I have done something wrong during the repair process?

David - Reply

I have the same problem. Did you find a solution yet? or did you just got used to it?

Donat -

Replaced my broken screen and the display works but the touch screen is not responding to any touch or pressure. When the old screen is put back the touch screen works fine . I have tried 2 different new screens with the same result.

Brian

Brian - Reply

I replaced the screen complete and battery and lightning / headphone jack all at the same time. Smooth as silk.

joshuabogage - Reply

the screen was tough to get loose! ifixit sent a guitar pick with it that worked better than the spudger . little plugins are picky. maybe if i had smaller hands it would have been easier but it took less than an hour, Im happy!

Dan Powell - Reply

Tried this repair on a broken 6s screen. The repair was easy, and the guide was helpful, but my touch ID does not work now. Does anyone know what the problem is

Jackson Kroger - Reply

you have damaged the touch id flex cable

Computer Hacker -

Hey all! I replaced the screen just fine, the guide was amazing! However, the new screen powers on, displays the Apple logo for about five seconds then turns off…then it repeats. I don’t have to touch the phone, and it will do this over and over again. It’s doing it currently.

I tried the trick of holding down the power button and the home button and it all it does is turn off the phone and start it back up again with the exact same issue.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Kellan Bradshaw - Reply

You’ll probably need to do a bit of troubleshooting to isolate the issue. You can find some suggestions here and here. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

I replaced my friends screen the other day and it took only about 30 or so minutes. I used the pro tech toolkit that you can buy from Ifixit and this guide and I had a smooth install and her phone was up and running in no time, fantastic guide.

Grass - Reply

The phone would not boot! The battery was at about 15% before I started. After I replaced the display the phone would not boot. After disassembly & reassembly numerous times looking for a problem, even reinstalling the old display-no boot. In final desperation I plugged in the charger-the phone booted! Apparently if the battery voltage gets too low it will not start the phone after the battery has been disconnected or the phone disassembled.

I don’t know if this problem has an explanation or was unique to my repair.

maltman - Reply

Thank you for a most detailed and insightful tutorial! This my 4th i-Phone screen repair/replacement and this was by far the best tutorial I have utilized. There were no surprises and the sequential photos really made this job safe for myself AND the phone!

Peter Bovey - Reply

Nice tutorial!

i have replaced screen and new screen is half black with the other half show semi white and with vertyical lines…

connectors look clean and undamanged… . any thoughts?

Hood - Reply

Just a warning: my replacement screen does not work well with polarized glasses. It blacks out in the normal ‘vertical’ position. Whereas my original apple screen worked great with polarized glasses when vertical and only slightly dimmed when in the horizontal position.

davecivello - Reply

I have done this reapair but force touch isn’t working on the new screen. Any ideas on why?

My new screen also has a slight pink tone to it, but I think I’ll get used to it and probably wont think of it. As long as I get my force touch to work again..

Björn Tirsén - Reply

I just finished a full screen assembly replacement and all seemed to go smoothly. However, like Kellan, Once I reassembled and turned the phone on, it has been stuck in an endless reboot loop of showing the Apple logo for a few seconds, then turning off and repeating.

Any ideas what’s wrong?

Jonathan Elison - Reply

@jonelison Try the suggestions here and here. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Just finished the repair on my wife’s phone. Really straight forward. Moving the home button was really easy too!! Turned the phone back on and everything worked just as it should. Thanks!!

Stephen Silva - Reply

Hi all! I replaced the screen according to the instructions. But when i start up the phone the display shows vertical stripes across the screen. The connectors and cables don’t show any obvious damage. When I reinstall the old screen no problems appear. What could be the problem?

Martijn Mooij - Reply

I completed this guide and it went smoothly. The hardest part was installing new screen adhesive and removing and installing the home button onto the new screen without damaging it. Patience is needed to complete this without any problems. I notice a slight color difference between the OEM screen and my repacement screen. I took a phone call shortly after finishing my install and noticed that the new ear speaker does not sound good. It sounds like it has a lot of feedback, which my 2 year old oem speaker had none of.

Nathan Stark - Reply

Do I need the Display Assembly Adhesive in order to replace a broken screen?

Tobias Vielmetter-Diekmann - Reply

@tividi Replacing the display assembly adhesive is recommended but not required. If you get the fix kit linked at the top of this guide, it comes with replacement adhesive.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hello, I completed the guide and replaced the new screen from ifixit. But the screen wouldn’t turn on. I replaced the original cracked screen to check if I had done anything wrong… Its working fine…. Any solutions?

vimaladithya - Reply

This is my first repair, and everything is great except now that I have came to the last step and am unsure on how to reassemble the device; I do not know what you mean by “in reverse order". Are you saying to start from step 28 and go all the way back to step 1?? Prompt answers are greatly appreciated.

Isaiah Gadsden - Reply

28,27,26,25,…….1

willpowers51 -

I tried this, but my screen wasn’t broken? so why should I do this?

Carl Jefferson - Reply

Similar issue as noted above, the new screen is dead. I can get the original cracked screen to work, but can’t get anything on the new. Second pro replacement kit i’ve gotten that was dead after replacement. Replaced quite a few screens in the past, never had an issue. Would have been less trouble to pay the extra twenty bucks for the guy at the mall to do it.

jmason - Reply

Hi question.

If screen was broken. But Home button and touch ID work. If I will replace the screen. I will not have a problem with touch ID in the feature?

Arkady Shustov - Reply

no because you are you going to transfer the home button on to the new screen.

hilmary -

good guide! repair done

Spence - Reply

cool. success. just remember when reattaching the 3 cables at the end that the 2 horizontal ones are in the right order. I spent 10 minutes trying to connect the first cable as it was actually on top of the second cable (from when I added the camera, prox sensor ,etc).

just required flip on over the other at the base of the cables. and then they connected properly.

altomic - Reply

Thank you, this guide worked perfectly and the repair process was relatively simple. The only tricky bit was reconnecting the home button connector—it didn’t ‘click’ clearly into place so I wasn’t sure if I did it right, and I didn’t want to press too hard. After reconnecting the new display, I powered the phone on and confirmed that the home button worked before removing the adhesive release liner and finishing the repair.

philballman - Reply

I’m having the same issue with this install as some above have had: I install the replacement screen, reassemble everything, but when I press to turn on or plug in the phone nothing happens. The screen is just black. The old screen worked fine, but was only cracked. I’ve opened everything back up to check the cables/connections, disconnected everything, reconnected again, tried booting, and still nothing. Did I(we) just get a glitchy replacement? I’d love to see a response to this particular issue if anyone’s come across the same thing. Thanks.

davejmoz - Reply

Reconnect your old screen and see if it still works as expected. If it does, you may have received a defective replacement screen. If it doesn’t, you may have damaged something during your repair. Did you disconnect the battery when removing and installing the screen as instructed?

Jeff Suovanen -

Everything is great but the light sensor doesn’t work

I traied two different iPhone 6s the same problem

is there anything on the new iPhone LCD lights sensor should I remove it before installation??

raid amri - Reply

Fix went smoothly, and the display is fully functional - but despite replacing the display adhesive, the sides of the screen don’t seem to want to stay tightly fit. Anyone know the reason for this? And perhaps a fix?

Thanks

Brooks Anderson - Reply

dont buy this.

1) your ambient light sensor won’t work anymore

2) even though i installed my original home button i can’t get the touchid to work properly. it always says that i moved my finger even though i really, really, really try not to. it feels like the sensitivity is upped by 1000%. you pretty much cannot use it afterwards anymore.

3) the adhesive for the display sucks. it doens’t really stick to the inner casing.

i regret buying this. apple will charge me 200+ eur for a repair. so ill propably start living with the flaws, because i’m a cheap bastard.

0/10 dont. just dont.

awesom_o - Reply

Stuck on one section while installing the new screen, adding the Touch ID/Home Button and when screwing the plate that holds the Touch ID/Home Button from the back, the screws do not reach in enough to screw into the holes. Tried pushing down as hard as I could without damaging the assembly. Screws will fit into the old screen assembly but not the new assembly from IFIXIT.

Shane - Reply

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