Introduction

Use this guide to remove or replace the volume button covers in your iPhone 6. This guide is just for the physical buttons, and not the electronic switches beneath.

If you need to replace the volume control cable, follow this guide.

Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

When reconnecting be VERY careful not to over tighten. The connectors on the screen that these 3.6mm Pentalobe screws lock with are notorious for breaking off

Blair Tryba - Reply

what do i do if ive managed to tighten them too hard and now they wont come off?

kristian686 -

Before opening the phone, I gently warmed it using a buckwheat heating pad. This made removal of the adhesive strips (steps 20 to 24) easy.

Howard Bales - Reply

Exactly what I did as well, the gently warming made the adhesive removal work like a charm. The heat as well help to lift the screen easily, no need for the prying tools for me to open te phone.

For the adhesive removal just pull it slowly to the bottom of the phone and keep in under tension.

On reassembly, turn on the phone after getting all connectors back in place to verify all is working fine before putting all screws back in their spot.

Maarten Vergauwen -

I put mine back together but mine looks very different than this one. Why is it that when I make a call I cannot hear through the ear piece and have to put it on speaker. Also my screen doesn't go black when my face touches it

Bailey Wilson - Reply

Hey Bailey, which repair were you attempting? Is it possible you have a 6s, or maybe a 6 Plus? You may have better luck with faster troubleshooting if you post in our Answer Forum!

Sam Lionheart -

See its a long time ago you had this issue. You can try to remove the cable from front camera/sensor/earpiece from the motherboard port and gently push it back on. All the problems you relate to is thru the same cable. If this dont solve your problem, check if the earpiece is correctly placed onto the polarity poles, and that the proximity sensor is lying right down into the corresponding socket. If something is blocking the sensor, yeah then the screen wont turn on/off when you put it onto your ear.

Kenneth Hilstan -

You only need 000 Screwdriver for ALL!

Tom Long - Reply

what do i do if all the screws fail to come off and if i don’t have some of the tools like the iSclack

Brandon Kato - Reply

I see in the preamble that when you replace your logic board, you would lose touch id functionality, so my question is what if you have the homebutton and thus the fingerprint reader for the logic board replacement, would touch id work?

socratesmens - Reply

The next three steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 6 that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
  • The next three steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 6 that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down three steps for an alternate method.

  • If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone 6.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

There was only one suction cup in my kit. Why show the need for two if ifixit provides only one?

Lisa Klitses - Reply

Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups. Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, just above (but not covering) the home button.
  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups.

    • Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, just above (but not covering) the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

Add Comment

Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case. The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the display cables.
  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the display cables.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 8.

The iSclack opened the iPhone 6 with little effort. I could have given even less opening pressure than I did. Fantastic tool. Worth the investment.

Tim Dougherty - Reply

It's never mentioned anywhere that with iSclack even if you save the cables, glass easily detach from plastic frame. When you ri-assembly the phone, this will involve a glass not perfectly adherent to the body. In my opinion is better if you help yourself with a spudger to lift frame from rear case when you are using the iSclack.

marco bigoni - Reply

Holy cow this tool made it so much easier than a spudger and didn't damage anything. Totally worth the investment.

Fratelli '85 - Reply

If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:
  • If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

    • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the cup is pressed securely onto the screen to get a tight seal.

This is nearly impossible on a screen that is shattered

Erik Madsen - Reply

Try putting a strip of packing tape on the screen. That will make the surface smooth and help keep the suction.

Joanna - Reply

John, your lips move but I can't hear what you're saying. ;-)

TimD -

While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.
  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

  • Using a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while continuing to pull up with the suction cup.

  • There are several clips holding the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

Pulling up on the suction cup helped get me started, but what worked for me was pulling up gently while sliding the plastic prybar gently along the seam towards the top of the phone (on both sides), and it came open without having to put excess pressure on the suction.

lauren carroll - Reply

Same here, just open the gap a little with the suction cup and then use the opening tool on both sides.

Tobias - Reply

Along with the suction cup I used some Command adhesive strips to hold the bottom of the phone to a workbench as they easily pull/stretch away when you need to remove them!

Dion Sosa - Reply

Suction cup pictured here is the older version (with ring). I have one from my previous battery replacement on iPhone 5 and used that instead. The new one (gray with blue handle) kept on popping off. Overall, popping out screen was not as hard as it seems with these instructions, but do proceed with caution.

youmingc - Reply

Dion's idea to use removable adhesive strips was great, even better, use it to attach the iPhone to a clipboard. This will allow for a sort of Lazy Susan function while you work. I also used adhesive strips to attach my iPhone box to the clipboard as well and used that as a back rest (with rubber band) for the screen as pictured in steps below. This allowed me to very comfortably skip steps 13-19 as others have commented.

Adam - Reply

Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup. Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
  • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

  • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

Add Comment

Open the iPhone by swinging the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge. Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge. During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.
  • Open the iPhone by swinging the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

    • Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge.

    • During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.

It's not clear from the instructions but it is shown correctly in the pictures: when the front panel assembly is just open (at a small angle with the rear case) pull the top edge clips out of the rear case to slightly separate the two components, then swing the front panel assembly away from the rear case. I assume not doing so would potentially damage the connecting ribbon and/or the alignment clips. Just a guess...

ethanlust - Reply

Ein Tipp zum Zusammenbau: Das Display ca. in 45 Grad halten und vorsichtig an die obere Kante des Gehäuses drücken, bis es bündig und glatt anliegt.

Dann das Display langsam und vorsichtig anklappen und die Clips von oben nach unten festdrücken.

SAS - Reply

This entire process went smooth. Final step of re-assembly , the assembly does not seat into the framing. The white gasket seats on one side not the the volume button side. Alignment looks good. How much pressure does one apply on the reassembly?

Bruce Fournier - Reply

My problem is the front panel does not want to joint together with the rear panel… it feel like the front is too big but it look perfect but does not clip in place… Help…

Tony Chicoine - Reply

same problem, in the final step, the screen does not fit entirely. it looks like the size is not 100% correct, but 99%… one side of the case stays open…

Andrea Andreoli - Reply

Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone. In a pinch, an unopened canned beverage works well for this. Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • In a pinch, an unopened canned beverage works well for this.

  • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

A picture is worth a thousand words! This idea at Step 9 is perfect and you can definitely do the entire rest of the battery replacement WITHOUT having to disconnect the display from the rear case. Just leave it secured exactly as shown in this picture and you're good to go. I just completed the repair and the most difficult part was just lining up the new battery connector! Excellent instructions and generally EASY repair because this step was so helpful!

Ryan - Reply

I did the same. Made the work go so much smoother!

dcommins - Reply

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - Reply

I'm going to try it this way, because the odds of damaging the connector during removal seem greater than the risk of ripping the cable, however, I plan to cradle the phone in the "L" of simple, sheet metal bookend, and secure it using blue painter's tape. Seems more stable.

bobcloninger - Reply

If you do this step carefully- (rubber band the front panel, and carefully peel away the battery adhesive) you can SKIP 13 THRU 19!

Larry House - Reply

Remove the following Phillips screws from the battery connector bracket:
  • Remove the following Phillips screws from the battery connector bracket:

    • One 2.2 mm screw

    • One 3.2 mm screw

#000 needed here

David Pobuda - Reply

These screws require a Phillips #000 not Phillips #00 bit.

David Powell - Reply

How do you know that? Just wondering :)

Didier Daniel -

I replace the antenna in the upper left-hand corner an in the bottom middle with the lightning connector because After disassemble it completely i lose my ability to have Cellular. After i replace both antennas i can find i nevertheless have cellular. anybody an idea ?

kupies2011 - Reply

@davidsapowell @David+Pobuda - I've submitted an update per your comments. Thanks for the guidance!

Nate Schley - Reply

With the phillips screwdriver included in the repair kit I cannot unscrew any of the interior screws because it is not the right size even though according to these comments all of the screws are #000 and on the product listing it says that the screwdriver I got is #000. Any suggestions?

Wilson Styres - Reply

Upon reassembly I found the Red 2.2 mm screw won't seat. Is it possible it sheared off? The Orange 3.2 is solid in both holes but 2.2 doesn't securely fit in either.. Should I just leave off the 2.2?

smcgreg - Reply

My phone was missing this screw also!

Gail Starr -

Duh, had the cover on the wrong way. Switched it around and the screw fit. (:

smcgreg - Reply

When I insert the 3.2 mm screw... The phone shuts down, very weird because am not seeing what could cause this short...

Juan Monge - Reply

I’m having the same issue. Thinking about just leaving that screw out. Did you ever get your’s working?

Cavell Blood -

Using the Phillips 000 screwdriver included in the kit, I am able to remove the 3.2 mm screw, but not the 2.2 mm one.

Dan Solovay - Reply

None of the screwdriver heads in this kit are big enough for these screws!!! I now have an open iphone and i have to go to the store to buy a different screwdriver..I do not recommend this

Elaine Eason - Reply

I was unable to unscrew the 2.2mm screw with the provided screwdriver. I was able to unscrew the 3.2mm screw but not the 2.2mm

Jameison Martin - Reply

I'm stuck in the same boat here. The one screw came out no problem but the second isn't catching at all.

Brian Adams - Reply

Stuck with Jameison and Brian here... 2.2mm won't catch with all three provided screwdrivers.

Matthijs Rog - Reply

Agreed, the screwheads included in this kit didn’t work for me either. Fortunately my own toolbox has an appropriate screwdriver…. Seeing as how we are paying for this kit so we don’t need to purchase extra tools, iFixit should really include screwheads that actually work!

Priscilla Cheng - Reply

When putting everything back together, I took care of steps 10-12 (or, more accurately 12-10) after reinserting the SIM (so between steps 20 & 19). It was easier to do before dealing with reconnecting the screen.

dhcohen67 - Reply

Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.
  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Why in the YouTube video do you skip removing the battery connector

mjcoughlin70 - Reply

Where to buy this bracket?

syidan - Reply

One of the screws is longer than the other, use it for the higher inside hole.

Bobby Slone - Reply

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Take care to only pry up on the battery connector, and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

I skipped steps 13-19 and just left the front panel rubber banded while I removed the battery. I just made sure to be careful while removing the adhesive strips so as not to move around the body of the phone too much. Skipping the steps made the whole process much faster and easier.

Tonima Chaudhury - Reply

I wish I had done that.

Gail Starr -

Thanks for this awesome tip. Made the replacement go much smoother - saved me from removing all those other screws. I also recommend watching the ifixit battery adhesive strip video before proceeding with step 21.

Andy Milne -

Me too, no need to detach the screen (when you take care),

Tom Long -

In trying to replace my antenna flex cable, I attempted to skip steps 13-19 but eventually gave up around step 31/32 as I simply didn’t have the access I needed - the space was just too cramped with the screen still attached and I was afraid I would break something. If you’re a novice, don’t have good lighting and a magnifying glass, etc. you may just want to go ahead and perform 13-19. (Yes it will take extra time of course.)

Perrin Haley -

I also skipped steps 13-19 after reading the first comment.

youmingc - Reply

I skipped those steps too and was successful. Thanks for this tip!

jaksbackpack - Reply

Can disconnecting the battery connector while power is on ruin the backlight? Or can disconnecting the power connector at a different stage ruin the back light?

mitch Toler - Reply

You should power down the phone before disconnecting the battery. That said, the backlight should be fine. A blown backlight circuit is most commonly caused by disconnecting the display when the battery is still connected.

Jeff Suovanen -

I did open the lcd without disconnecting the battery and my lcd wouldn't working

Reza I. Permana -

Thanks for that tip Tonima! This is another confirmation that skipping steps 13-19 worked out great!

As an extra measure, in addition to leaving the front panel rubber banded in it's open, vertical position (I secured mine to a can of beans) and being very careful and controlled when removing the adhesive strips; before using the suction cup to separate the front panel from the rear case, I had secured the back side of the rear case to my working surface (kitchen table) with a strip of folded over duct tape (creating double sided tape). Such might not have been necessary as I held the rear case with one hand while removing the adhesive strips with the other, though it just felt safer having the rear case (as well as the front panel) well secured in place to help assure that I didn't accidentally cause any damage to those very fragile looking cables that were left connected, by any possible movements of either of the iPhone's halfs during the pulling to remove the adhesive strips.

Russ Levey - Reply

It happened to me, by prying the battery connector with another tool I broke part of the socket off the board. However, by placing it exactly back in place the connector could be placed correctly and it works. Lucky.

Udo Schuehle - Reply

I'd like a little more explanation on how to re-attach the battery connector. But in the end I lined it up and pressed gently down till it snapped into place.

Garret Gray - Reply

I skipped the steps removing the screen only because I didn't feel confident at all doing this. For someone who is used to electronics I would really suggest removing it because I imagine the whole process would've been easier. If there's a next time, perhaps I'll do that.

Garret Gray - Reply

The suggestions that recommend skipping step 13-19 apply to some other repair. We replaced the display, and to do so, steps 13-19 are, of course, necessary.

Gabriel Zachmann - Reply

Black Friday
Broken doesn't stand a chance.
Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:
  • Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    • One 3.1 mm screw

  • Incorrect placement of these screws during reassembly will cause permanent damage to your iPhone's logic board.

Be careful when replacing the screws, not to accidentally put the 1.7mm screw into the center hole, where the 1.2 screw belongs. This can cause "Long Screw" damage, and render your phone unusable.

damianodessgillett - Reply

I don't have the magnetic pad but use duct tape face up in a tray. I write the step number and color of the screw on the sticky surface and let the screw stand heads up on the goo. The screw is presented for the driver when reassembling.

griffn - Reply

Can't stress enough how important it is not to mix up these screws! Using the 1.7mm screw for the lower left fixing will cause "long screw damage" and kill the backlight on the phone. I believe @damianodessgillett made the same point. Wish we could display a small warning message here to be extra careful for future fixers!

kev - Reply

I use a screw ID technique similar to griffn's; I print out the PDF version of the guide, then Scotch-tape each screw type to the guide at the step where the screw was removed. The screws are then distinguished by size and type at the point where they need to be reinstalled.

adlerpe - Reply

i am trying but only could open 2 screws and cannot open the rest of them, can you help me??

girlsrock742 - Reply

@girlsrock742 - I'm new here, but from what I've seen, questions like yours don't get answered. I have 2 suggestions:

# Be more specific about what your issue is.

# Make sure you're using the right screwdriver. (Get a magnifying glass & make sure the screwdriver fits nicely in the screwhead.) This guide is included in a guide I'm looking at, and my guide has a comment that #000 phillips is required for the battery connector bracket above, not #00 as documented. (That comment did not convey to this guide....)

Good luck!

Nate Schley - Reply

Thanks to @griffn & @adlerpe! I've updated the tools list to include the magnetic pad, and -- for us infrequent fixers -- I made a note in the intro text to describe the sort of thing you two noted here in place of the mag pad.

Also, to @damianodessgillett & @kev - I've submitted an update to the instructions to add the caution you recommend to the step. Hopefully others will avoid the pain of the Long Screw damage.

Nate Schley - Reply

It's possible to damage only a slot of flex cable ? I've opened my iPhone 6 but now front camera, speaker and the proximity sensor are not working. I've bought a new flex cabe to test it, but I have to be sure about that.

cruz.giovanni - Reply

I'm so worried I'm going insert the wrong screw. Does anyone have any suggestions to knowing how to properly tell the size of each screw? I bought a screw set and a magnetic pad but still have the same issue. Not knowing the correct placement of each screw. I'd definitely appreciate any help.

Patric - Reply

Hi Patric! We use a set of calipers to measure our screws, failing that you could use a very fine ruler. If you don't have any kind of measuring equipment, line the screws up on the magnetic mat and sort them by size there. Ideally you only have screws from this step! If you are trying to determine the size of all the screws in this guide, it's probably best to get a real ruler/caliper for the fine distinctions.

Sam Lionheart -

Do you have to remove the display to replace the battery?

Michael Aguilera - Reply

It's not absolutely necessary to remove the display, I kept my display propped up throughout the operation. Removal of the display doesn't seem to offer any particular benefit, unless you have problems with the adhesive strips.

Adam - Reply

Hi. I messed up with the screws in the cover guard sheet for the display ribbon and my iPhone 6 plus isn't turning on. Does that mean the logic board is dead or the battery ? Should I throw the phone in the garbage can ?

nzf - Reply

I can confirm it's not necessary to remove anything other than battery bracket. If you support the screen against something as in the picture, just make sure you hold the iPhone absolutely still with one hand while pulling out the adhesive strips with the other. I also used a small piece of tape to hold the screen in place against the box while I worked.

I am now a very happy customer and am looking forward to another few years life from my awesome iPhone 6!

Matt Whiteley - Reply

There is no need to do this step. No need to remove these 5 screws. Just make sure the screen is propped up against something strong and this step is unnecessary for the proper removal and re-insertion of battery.

arunhn - Reply

I left the front panel connected and it was much quicker. But, if you have to wrestle with the battery, it is much safer with the front panel removed. If you have worked on a few phone before, I'd try removing the battery with the front panel connected. If the battery is giving you problems(like if you tear the strips and have to heat the backside), you can always come back to this step.

Joel Horie - Reply

I strongly recommend you leave the display connectors alone if you can. My battery came out without a fight, but I found the display connectors to be almost tragically delicate, and I had white lines in the display when I booted it. During the subsequent attempts to remedy that situation, things went down hill and now I'm waiting for an entirely new display to try to rescue the phone from repair oblivion.

kevin hekman - Reply

I also skipped all of the screen-removal steps and had nary a problem. Just rubber band the screen around whatever it is propped against and I believe you'll be fine.

Billy Bob Baler - Reply

Hello! I put the screws on in the wrong order and I believe my backlight is dead, iTunes still recognizes my phone when I plug it in, but the screen is blank. Is it possible to replace the logic board or is the phone useless forever?

Tanya Lyn Willard - Reply

You probably connected the cables wrong, try doing this step again and carefully correct your cables.

June Beltran -

Remove each screw, tape it to a piece of letter paper, mark what spot it came out of. red, yellow, orange and the 3 reds. This way you can not possibly put them back in the wrong spots.

smahar -

I totally recommend doing this step first before removing the battery connector bracket, it will be much easier and comfortable with the screen out of the way.

Also I recommend drawing the bracket on a piece of paper and place the screws on top of the respective position on the drawing, this way you won't be confused when putting them back.

June Beltran - Reply

I accidentally lost a 1.2mm screw while doing a screen replacement. Will this make the phone malfunction in anyway after I close it back up or its fine?

Walter White - Reply

DO NOT DO THIS STEP. It is totally unnecessary to remove the connectors, and they are a really big pain to put back in, and there is risk of damaging them, and it adds a lot of time to the process of replacing the battery. Just securely prop up the front panel, and then if you gently heat the back of the phone when removing the adhesive strips, the battery comes off easily. I could have saved myself about 2 hours and a lot of frustration if I had just left these connectors in. I wish the instructions here would just include this step (connector removal) ONLY IF the battery doesn't come out easily.

J Marr - Reply

Exactly, just like J, Marr indicates, this step is not necessary. Just make sure you're careful to not move the phone too much, otherwise you can damage the film connectors. Other than that I even heated my phone to remove the adhesive, and thank God, nothing bad happened to it.

Mc Floyd -

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - Reply

How can't you do step 33 if you don't do 13-19? iPhone 6.

predylindsay - Reply

I'm missing something here, I want to swap out the screen. How does one skip steps 13-19 if wanting to remove the screen?

BW Lee - Reply

Any tips for removing the 1.2 mm screws? Mine won't budge at all with the PH000 and I'm afraid I'm stripping the screws.

MClare - Reply

I had to use the larger bit for ALL of the screws as the small one was too narrow at the tip to actually grab anything. It worked but made it a bit more difficult.

Heather Best - Reply

Is it really necessary to remove the front panel at all, can't you just ask a friend to hold it in an upright position while you work on the battery?

Peter - Reply

I also skipped steps 13 - 19. Just be very careful not to apply to much stress to the connectors in between the screen and the base. For me I also used another box to keep the base from sliding around while removing the battery.

Patrick Reed - Reply

You cannot skip these steps, of course, when you want to replace the display (which was the kind of repair we did).

When putting the little connectors in place again afterwards, I can recommend to hold the connectors to the display using a little rubber band. That way, they don’t get in the way when you put them in place one by one.

Gabriel Zachmann - Reply

You SHOULD do the steps of removing the display. I have done battery replacements on several dozen phones. Of the ones I did NOT remove the cables, 2 of them had issues directly related to components related to these cables (front facing camera, earpiece speaker, etc.). Although tedious, I recommend removing these connectors to prevent any short circuit when reconnecting the new battery.

ACMT - 4 years.

jonbessom - Reply

I skipped this step and just affixed the screen to the Iphone box with a rubber band during replacement. I decided to take this risk to prevent some of the other issues that have been discussed when removing the screen. I understand it is risky because if you slip or need to use any significant force to remove the battery, disaster awaits. On my repair, it worked out fine and I ensured that I took my time and kept the bottom of the phone held to the worksurface.

Michael Kirkpatrick - Reply

There are only 2 screws when i opened mine.The centre one and the left top corner one..Is it okay to use it like that..Please help

Naresh Annepu - Reply

Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.
  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

Add Comment

In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.
  • In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets on the logic board.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

I can not get these electrical connections to reconnect. If there is some secret to this it should be noted. I now have a phone all taken apart and can not get it back together. It makes no sense to only give directions to take a phone apart and not to put it back together.

douglas hughes - Reply

Use sideways bright light and peek underneath as you mate the contacts to align properly. Press very gently and evenly. Others have written that too much pressure in the center may warp the contact.

mahoffman - Reply

I'm having the same problem as above...really upset and frustrated at this point. :( 2/4 connectors (top and right) will 'click' just fine...the other two (bottom two) for the life of me wont connect!!!! :( any suggestions? i feel like i have tried everything. Sucks that is only thing stopping me screen from being repaired....

alyssaavaldezz - Reply

Hi alyssa. Were you able to connect the cables? I am having the same problem

Veronica del Rio -

regarding cable connects - if two of the ribbon cables are not properly overlapped around each other, then it will appear as if cable #2 will need to plug into the closest jack, which is actually for cable#3. Look at the two connectors carefully - they are opposite gender and can't be interchanged.

David Panak - Reply

This is good advice, and usually the problem people experience here. There is a very specific way the ribbon cables are layered, and if not correct when reassembled, the reach of the cables will cause you to assume which cable goes where and to try to insert the wrong plugs into the wrong sockets. Please do not try to force them. If they don't snap in easily, examine them closely, and you'll see the plugs and sockets are slightly different sizes, with one wider than the other. Better to take care to note how the cables layer during disassembly, or perhaps mark them to avoid this frustration on reassembly.

gybeho -

Check order of cables. From screen replacement.

lee moran - Reply

my problem is that the connectors are different the screen i replaced it with the connectors were longer than the broken screen even though there the exact same type of screen

andrew midgett - Reply

Probably just have the cables out of order. Check the posts above.

gybeho - Reply

"gybeho" Ok, but it's impossible to install flex cables out of order. Each one has diferent sizes of docking...

cruz.giovanni - Reply

it is very possible to install flex cables out of order. to most people working on their first screen replacement they do not have the experience to notice that their flex cable connection is different than the dock connection. this causes them to press harder and force the connection into the dock, ruining the connections, if they do not think the they have the cables out of order

Dakota Navarrete - Reply

I'm with Andrew Midgett. The connectors are just plain different in size and orientation. My phone matches what's shown in the picture above. You can see an example of the replacement part if you search Amazon for "Sanka LCD Touch Screen Digitizer Frame Assembly Full Set Screen Replacement for iPhone 6". And Sanka isn't the only iPhone 6 replacement that looks like that, so no hating on that manufacturer here.

Does this mean that some iPhone 6 phones have one set of connectors and some have a different set? FWIW, the model on the back of my phone says A1549.

PG McLaughlin - Reply

Update: Searching for iPhone 6S instead of 6 on Amazon, I see lots of replacement screens with connectors that look a lot more like what I have and what's shown in the picture above. (One connector has a horizontal orientation, the other is vertical. I can't be sure whether the pins or dimensions match otherwise.) Any wisdom here?

PG McLaughlin - Reply

Had the same problem with the correct layering of cable harnesses. Perhaps an additional photo showing the correct layering would be helpful for 1st timers?

William Breen - Reply

+1 for a photo showing the correct layering and routing of cables. I accidentally routed the home button ribbon above the digitizer ribbon and beneath the power and backlight ribbons. The uneven pressure it put on the digitizer connector after tightening the plate caused my digitizer to not recognize touching the display or made touches appear off center.

drpotter -

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector.

Muy buenas....una pregunta tecnica...si el botón falla o no está bien conectado...al conectar este conector ¿ se apagaría el teléfono?. Repare mi iphone y al conectarlo se me apaga el movil, sin embargo si no lo enchufo el movil enciende perfectamente.

Gracias.

Berta fernandez - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display data cable connector. When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display data cable connector.

  • When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.

you missed the name of the second connctor. there are four total

copykatt - Reply

My screen is completely black and i can see the lights turning on when i press the home or lock button. Maybe this cable got damaged ?

Gabriel Hirata - Reply

Perhaps you bought a faulty screen. Often this is the case when it shows completely black.

William Mullan - Reply

When I was preforming this step, while reassembling, I had to connect the digitizer cable four times. On the last time, before screwing the Front Panel Assembly Cable Bracket on, I reconnected the battery connector and turned my phone on (ensuring that I was careful not to damage any cables!) to ensure that all cables were connected correctly and that the screen was fully functional.

Christopher - Reply

NO NO NO ! i am a professional iphone repairman and i strongly recommend against using ANY tool to disconnect the flex connectors if u slip or use to much force you will damage the connector and may cause permanent damage to the phones logic board rendering it completely UNrepairable! Instead gently use the edge of your fingernail and pry up and the connectors will usually come off with very little effort .

taylor sparks - Reply

Fingernails work great as well! However, there's nothing wrong with using a tool, as long as you exercise a little caution. If you've ever seen one of Apple's iPhone service manuals, you'll note that they use the exact same tool as iFixit (Apple calls it a "black stick" and iFixit dubs it a "spudger.")

Jeff Suovanen -

I'm pretty sure ifixit are pros, I used them 4 times to fix phones and no problems with using tools for flex cables.

Dave - Reply

If you still have white lines after you've tried reconnecting the connectors and power cycling. Just do a hard reset a few more times, let the phone stay on and wait a while. As long as it's not damaged, the lines will fade over the next hour or so. Your phone will be as good as new.

grjos - Reply

If my screen is giving me white lines and occasional ghost clicks on the right side does anyone know if it’s possibly only a faulty cable vs needing a full screen swap? I’d rather not waste a perfectly good screen.

Andrew Hill - Reply

what if my phone wont turn back on even after following all these steps carefully . i even put the old screen back on and it wont turn on still???

Daniel Murcia - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector. When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

  • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Reassembly was harder than other i devices I have worked on. A bench light from the side helped a lot with the first cable, the digitizer. The others went a bit better in this crowded space. I had screen lines when testing it out before closing the top, so reinstalled all four connectors here with the aid of a side light and happily, that worked!

griffn - Reply

i crossed over the first two cables initially, when re-assembled; make sure by the WIDTH that you are trying to connect them in the right order.

awr - Reply

How many times can i peel these connections without braking the connection between screen and logic borad

falken1337 - Reply

Is this the breaking down process for the Verizon version of the iPhone 6s? I know the flex cables were different for other versions and with my last iPhone I made the mistake of ordering one that had completely different cable places. Someone please send me a link to one that fits the Verizon 4.7 display!!!

Bailey Duncan - Reply

This break down isn't for a 6S. It is for a plain 6 (no S). Yes there is some differences because of the 3D touch feature.

Keith Mullins - Reply

So what is the fix if there is digitizer damage? Replacing the screen?

After reinstallation, I am encountering issues with an area of the screen that is not responding to touch. Everything else works fine.

Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed?

Jonathan Rivera - Reply

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to Place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

// Simon

Simon Tengstrand -

I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector).

Simon Tengstrand -

I had the most issues when reassembling with this step. The plastic tool is a fail in my experience since not enough pressure could be applied using it. I just ended up using my finger and that worked 10Xs better. My advice, watch a few YouTube videos of people reconnecting the connectors and you'll be fine.

grjos - Reply

I have dis-connected and reconnected several times with the white line appearing each time. The screen however seems to be responsive. I did lose a 1.2 mm screw. Is it the missing screw or did I damage the digitizer connection?

Charlotte - Reply

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

I had three screws left when I did some repairs on my iphone 4 and that didn't matter. It worked like a charm :)

// Simon

Simon Tengstrand -

I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector)

Simon Tengstrand -

Be especially careful in this step or your iPhone won’t respond to your touch after reassembling.

Ume Nishikino - Reply

My home screen button is not working after reassembly, not only the Touch ID but the actual button doesn't work. I have iPhone 6S . How can I fix this? Thanks

Sissy -

Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.
  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Is it not possible to start here? Just leave the screen assembly attached and only replace the home button?

Joeri Boersen - Reply

Please don’t do that. You will break your cables almost assuredly if you leave it attached to your phone trust me

Curtis Jordan Lenox - Reply

Peel back the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom right edge of the battery. Use your fingers or blunt tweezers, and be extra careful when working near the battery—puncturing a lithium-ion battery can release dangerous chemicals and cause a fire.
  • Peel back the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom right edge of the battery.

  • Use your fingers or blunt tweezers, and be extra careful when working near the battery—puncturing a lithium-ion battery can release dangerous chemicals and cause a fire.

Before you start on the battery, jump ahead to step 27. Click the "this guide" and read and watch the video. Then come back and start on the battery. The adhesive strips are difficult the first time. They work like 3M Command Strips products, if you've ever used those. Stretching them lengthwise makes them release.

Joel Horie - Reply

The “This Guide” link is in the STEP 25 text and in the Conclusion text. There is no Step 27 in the current (03 Nov 2017) online guide.

hobywonkenobee - Reply

Several comments below attest to the benefit of heating the back of the phone (thus heating the adhesive) before attempting to remove the adhesive strips. See below.

kevin evans - Reply

Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly. Slowly pull the adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone. To avoid tearing the adhesive strip, be careful not to snag it against the vibrator or other components near the battery.
  • Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

  • Slowly pull the adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

    • To avoid tearing the adhesive strip, be careful not to snag it against the vibrator or other components near the battery.

    • Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.

    • The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.

    • If the strip breaks, carefully try to retrieve it with your tweezers (without damaging the battery) and continue pulling. If the strip breaks off underneath the battery and can't be retrieved, continue with the steps below.

I suggest removing the vibrator before attempting to remove the adhesive strips. It makes the process much easier. I broke both tabs following this step and recovered both the strips by removing the vibrateor and using a tweezers and fingers to pull the remaining strip. I grabbed a corner of the strip underneath the battery and pulled very gently until I was able to recover the entire width of the strip. This required holding the corner of the strip with my fingers and using the tweezers to grab the stip closer to the battery, allowing me to grab more width.

kkm113 - Reply

I had to do this, so I will vouch for this step. It made things a lot easier and is a pretty simple removal/installation.

Dan -

This should be a required Step in this guide. I've replaced two batteries now, one without removing the vibrator, and it took me about a half hour of using a blow dryer because I ripped the adhesive strips. Removing the vibrator allows for the "down-right" / "down-left" pulling of the strips MUCH MORE EASILY - just removed both without any problems...no blow dryer needed now!

ethanmaretich -

My iphone 6 will not power on. I started it with 30% battery can you suggest solutions?

xavierwells03 - Reply

It was that dang data cable. Awesome, thanks!

xavierwells03 -

I did this but it doesn't charge. I'm concerned that I may not have attached the new battery cable properly. It didn't snap into place very well. It looked as if the new cable had some plastic that may have been blocking the connectors I'm not sure how snug it's supposed to go on. It definitely did not click into position the way the screen cables clicked in. Anyway, I connected as best I could and put the metal cover on and it doesn't work. Was I supposed to do something to the new battery's cable connector so that it would connect better?

My phone had some water damage and I was hoping that replacing the battery would solve the problem.

epetner - Reply

When 'reversing the steps' to put it back together, where do the adhesive strips come in? And where do you get them? How do you put them on?

TJE - Reply

Hi TJE, you won't be able to follow every step exactly in revers ;) You can buy the strips here, iPhone 6/6s/7 Battery Adhesive Strips, or just use a piece of double-sided tape. For the adhesive strips, just peel off one layer of the backing, align the strips as they were in step 20, press them onto the battery and remove the outer backing, and put it in the phone, making sure the connector can attach to its socket, then head up to step 19 attach the connector etc.

Sam Lionheart -

The strips need more instruction/picture. As soon as I tried to peel the top layer the strips stuck to each other and created a mess. I salvaged part of the strip, but not pretty. Used double sided tape. Much easier.

eschrank - Reply

AGREED! I bought the iFixit kit and this instructional is great, for sure... buuuuut it really would have been nice to see how you guys apply the new battery adhesive. I had no idea and just about botched mine. Thankfully I figured it out before it was a total loss.

leon -

Yup, I agree! The only bit of information that is missing.

I hope I do not have to remove the battery again as i put the strips on the wrong way round.

The kept folding themselves under the battery, so next time not tabs. I did not pust hard on the battery though so that may save some ball ache.

I did not need to remove the screen, so all in all a simple process. I think once you have done one or 2 batteries, then it becomes easier as you are learning by doing.

PJ Donnelly -

That information isn't missing exactly, it's just a separate guide. It's linked in the last step of this guide. It pays to read all the way to the end ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

There is another guide that explains it, here is the link to it. iPhone Battery Adhesive Strips Replacement

IFIXIT should point in the right step to avoid issues on adhesive missteps.

Anand Parthasarathy -

Heat helps. Got lucky pulling both out full length from the bottom. A few minutes with a hair dryer prepped the aluminum case to surrender the stretchy sticky tabs. Be sure to click the tape install link so that you apply the new double sticks correctly. I also 'dry fitted' the battery first to see where the connector lined up. With the battery all the way at the top of the opening, the connector took a bit of effort to align. With strips attached, I allowed some space and the connector fell into place.

griffn - Reply

why do you need to secure the battery with the strips in the first place? Will the battery slide around?

jsimons - Reply

We recommend readhering the battery to the rear case with some form of adhesive. You don't have to use the adhesive strips we sell, but if your battery is just bouncing around inside the case you risk damage to the cell itself or the ribbon cable. There's also circuitry at the lower edge of the battery that is not meant to take a lot of abuse. It's not likely that your battery will explode, but it could become damaged and leak, or stop working prematurely.

Evan Noronha -

I didn't secure the battery with anything and after completing the installation, my battery bounces around inside the phone. Personally, I don't see any problems with this and if anything, it gives my iphone 6 a haptic touch type feel :) I'll let you know if it explodes.

Brett Benson - Reply

Be careful when placing the new battery. The compartment is a little bigger than the battery, but the cable to the connector is pretty stiff. I had to do some serious adjusting of the cable to get the connector to align. I suggest connecting the connector before laying down the battery.

Howard Bales - Reply

I was able to pull the right strip completely out just from the bottom of the battery. Pull straight out with a low angle (just slightly above the black chip so it doesn't get caught or break) and the adhesive will pull right out. There's no need to go around the sides of the battery unless the adhesive is dry and not flexible. If the adhesive is very flexible, you'll be able to pull it out very easily as long as you take your time and are careful. It also helped that I started with 100% battery and drained down to under 25%, so the iphone was very warm from doing this and that helped make it very easy to pull the adhesive out. I did not need a warming kit, I just used the heat from using the iphone to drain the battery before shutting it down for the repair!

Ryan - Reply

I managed to pull the strips out without using any heat. I pulled maybe 25 degrees from the vertical, carefully avoiding the metallic parts around. However, after starting to pull with an even pressure, and seeing that the strip was stretching without coming out, I found that it helped if I gave small, repeated tugs, rather delicate but abrupt. This way I could actually hear the strip pulling out from under the battery, with a rubbery vibrating sound. It must have taken maybe 100 small tugs for each strips but they came out easily. Also, as the extracted part got too long, I held it with the other hand and grabbed it again further down the exposed portion, to always have a shorter section to pull on.

matteorisoldi - Reply

Pulling straight down towards the bottom of the phone at a small angle worked well for me. I highly recommend taking your time to prevent breakage. I think I spent over 8 minutes on each strip just slowly stretching it out so it would not break. Just keep it straight and dont twist. I was able to remove both strips intact and thus did not need to pry the battery. Because I was able to do this method, I left the screen attached and saved a few steps (I was not trying to save time, just did not want to create additional problems by removing and reconnecting various ribbons). I think slow and steady will be your best friend. I did not heat up the adhesive or case.

Michael Kirkpatrick - Reply

Repeat for the second strip. Hold down the battery as you remove the second strip, or the strip may fling the battery when it separates from the case. If you removed both adhesive strips successfully, skip the next two steps.
  • Repeat for the second strip.

    • Hold down the battery as you remove the second strip, or the strip may fling the battery when it separates from the case.

  • If you removed both adhesive strips successfully, skip the next two steps.

  • If either of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, continue with the next step below.

First adhesive (component side) broke during removal, but enough of it was hanging out to finish the job. 2nd strip (vol side) broke and snapped so far back I couldn't retrieve any part for pulling. HOWEVER, I proceeded with wedging a health care card, which is more flexible and thinner than credit card, and continued to push the adhesive from component side to edge of case. Once I have gotten enough adhesive bunched up and battery is showing signs of being lifted slightly, with health care card still in place, carefully swap a credit card and continue to leverage battery out slowly. (I did all of this without taking sceeen off, so be careful and do it at your own risk)

youmingc - Reply

The correct way of taking off the adhesive is not how it's shown in the picture (that is exacly how I broke both strips): it should be pulled out by tearing it away and right (to the speaker direction) and as flat as possible, and as the strip grows thinner move up but still pulling "down-right" until all comes out, same movement: " down-left" for the left strip

Ed Oliver - Reply

Definetly aided in the removal. Thanks!

Nicholas Sattele -

This comment refers to an out-of-date version of this guide. The current photos are correct. ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

just wanted to comment i followed this method and found it to be the easiest. as i got more and more adhesive out, i wrapped the excess around my finger like you would do with excess dental floss to keep the firm grip. worked perfectly. the total job was roughly 5-7 minutes from the first screw to the last.

Robert Vela -

Highly recommend using your iphone to do high power consumption tasks before shutting it down. This will warm the inside of the iphone and warm the adhesive strips. Doing this allows you to very easily pull the right adhesive strip completely out from the bottom of the battery. I just pulled straight out at a low angle and kept pulling until the strip was completely removed. You do need to take your time and be careful, pull slowly and it will eventually come out completely. If it is dry and not flexible, you'll will most likely fail, so make sure the inside of the iphone was warmed prior to starting your repair.

Ryan - Reply

The white "Command" type adhesive band broke, but was able to reach it with tweezers in the First Aid kit. Winding the adhesive around the tweezers with gentle tension allowed me to pull it all out and then the battery was "free".

malowitzp - Reply

Pull the strip out and down toward the speaker as much as you can. Don't rush trying to pull it around the corner of the battery. I did this on the first one and it ripped. On the second one I pulled it down/straight as much as possible and it came off easily. The earlier comment is correct about the picture not being the right way to pull the strips.

aggiechad2003 - Reply

The pictures have been updated! Thanks for your input.

Jeff Suovanen -

The 2nd one did break loose on me, but I was able to pick it up with the sweet tweezers provided with the Repair Tools kit. It took a few tries, but I was able to snag an edge and pull the strip back successfully.

smahar - Reply

Heat the back of the phone before trying to pull the adhesive, makes it much easier.

Jonathan MacIntyre - Reply

To heat the back of my phone I opened a console on my laptop and had it run a ridiculous computation, then put my phone underneath.

kevin evans - Reply

If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.
  • If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.

I've found it useful to warm the phone with the iopener from the beginning, and avoid the breakage altogether.

Christa - Reply

I wish I'd read Christa's comment beforehand. I didn't and started the process just fine, then both strips broke. I used a hairdryer multiple times to make progress melting the strips and wedging out the battery. Using a credit card alone (and then a credit card plus floss) wasn't enough. I used a cheese knife (carefully) for more leverage and that made the difference.

jaksbackpack - Reply

You don't need the iopener or a hair dryer. I put rice in a sock, rubber banded the top closed, microwaved for 40 seconds and placed it under the phone. It worked like a charm and allowed me to work on the battery while keeping the adhesive warm.

aggiechad2003 - Reply

simply used my wifes hair dryer and passed it over the back end for about 30secs or so. don’t know if it helped but it was easy to remove the adhesive strips. may or may not be necessary.

Robert Vela - Reply

Flip the iPhone back over and insert a plastic card between the case side of the battery and the rear case.
  • Flip the iPhone back over and insert a plastic card between the case side of the battery and the rear case.

    • Do not insert your card in the area between the volume down (-) button and the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the volume control cable lying underneath.

    • Do not pry against the logic board or you may damage the phone.

  • Keep the card as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals or catch fire. Do not use any sharp tools to pry at the battery.

  • Press the card in farther to break up the adhesive behind the battery.

  • Alternatively, a piece of dental floss may be used to separate the battery from the rear case. A stronger alternative to dental floss is an unwound guitar string, such as a 0.009 E string from a 12-string set.

    • Thread the floss or string behind the upper battery corners, bring the ends together, wrap them around a folded cloth, and pull evenly.

The bad news was that the adhesive strip ripped on the logic-board side. The good news is that recovery was not as difficult as I thought. By using a hair dryer, and some very patient wedging with a credit card, I was able to separate the battery from the adhesive, and then remove it. Some simple cleanup with tweezers got the adhesive sticking to the case. Just make sure you get it right on the edge side, or this technique will be a lot harder to pull off.

Billy Bob Baler - Reply

I screwed up the peeling part but I managed to get it through with a credit card.

Important, do not force the card down. Just take your time pushing and moving the card left and right. When the battery was up I just kept going with my hand, reeeeeally slowly and with constant force (so that it peels off the remaining straps).

Emanuele - Reply

The left side adhesive strip broke where I couldnt reach it. I tried dental floss but it wasnt strong enough in my case to cut through the adhesive, but I had 20lb fishing line that I had used to remove an emblem from a car and that worked well. I think the key is to pull the adhesive strips nearly straight down and not to the side.

Roger Stroud - Reply

Both adhesive tabs broke for me. I ended up starting with the hairdryer then trying floss and then a plastic card which was too flimsy. In the end I used the plastic wedging tool to pry the battery up and hold it there. With the battery raised, on the side closest to the phone edge I was able to scrape the adhesive strip together enough with the tweezers and then my fingers to pull at it laterally stretching it so that it came away in one piece. The battery was slightly dented and bent, but not punctured at this point. The second strip near the logic board was much higher and necessitated bending the battery much more and just holding it there. I couldn't get the battery up enough for fear of a puncture so I just held it there as the adhesive slowly detached itself and in the end the battery just popped free. Not sure if the warming from the hair dryer made any difference.

Jimmy Howlum - Reply

I used an ID card (without magnetic strip) just like the picture above to wedge the battery up to reach the broken adhesive strip.

malowitzp - Reply

This part is where I almost gave up. The strips broke, I tried to pry it out, then I heated the back with a hair dryer. I used an ID card and got under it and shimmied left and right until the battery was able to break look from the strips. Afterwards the battery was bent which concerned me it could just break. At this point I realized, yes, Apple does not want you to get in their phones. After it came out all went well and was glad to have finished this.

Garret Gray - Reply

Remove the battery from the iPhone.
  • Remove the battery from the iPhone.

  • When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips.

  • Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

This was very helpful

PRABHUDEV KULKARNI - Reply

I got the battery out but what if it the battery bends a bit????

babyuk76 - Reply

A bit of bending is probably fine as long as you are planning to replace the battery. Don't try to reuse a bent battery. In any case, try not to bend it any more than necessary, as bending increases the risk of fire.

Jeff Suovanen -

I need a little help... I've been through your tutorial and success... all gone smoothly.

But.... I've had it on charge for 25 minutes... no charging symbol, no life at all... how long does a new battery take to charge before you notice any life?????

joehopkin2016 - Reply

It can take a little while. If it doesn't power on after a little more time has gone by, open your phone back up and double-check your cable connectors. If that doesn't work, try plugging in your old battery to see if it behaves the same way. If you continue to have problems, drop a post in our Answers forum for more detailed troubleshooting. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Well, the screen removal step is completely unnecessary and cost me the functionality of my front facing camera. I would remove it from the guide altogether.

migue31096 - Reply

There's no way I could have replaced the battery without removing the screen. It took a fair amount of wrangling to remove the battery.

Steve Allen -

It depends on your experience level. If you don't successfully remove both pull tabs, it's much easier to pry the battery out if the screen isn't connected. Most professionals probably leave the screen connected to save some time but we recommend beginners remove the screen to minimize the risk of damaging the display's ribbon cables.

Evan Noronha -

Got it working turned it off now it doesn't want to turn on!!

Juan Ramirez - Reply

You should add a comment about the best way (environmentally) to dispose of this battery.

malowitzp - Reply

You should add the final step of connecting the battery cable and finishing the install. I followed these steps and my phone is dead and no longer works, so not sure if I connected the battery cable incorrectly. It doesn't secure as tight as the original was, but there is no guidance in this guide on how to reinstall it. The youtube videos skip past the final steps too.

Jay - Reply

@jaybytez Sorry you're having trouble! Installation for the most part is just the reverse of removal. There's a link in the final step and the conclusion for how to install new adhesive strips and stick the battery down. To reconnect the battery to the logic board, just position the connector over its socket and press gently until it clicks into place. Same goes for all the other connectors. I'd suggest going through the guide a second time and checking your work carefully. If you're not sure whether the battery is connecting correctly, try the old battery again for comparison. If you continue to have trouble, reach out to our customer support team or try posting your issue in the Answers forum. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

("Never" part 1 of 4)

If you are only directly interested in the current instructional steps for iPhone 6 battery replacement, please know that this 4-part comment simply upvotes/supports Jay's post above.     (4-parts needed as ran up against the character limit for this box.)

This is a commentary on this specific guide, yes, but it really applies to all guides I've read so far on iFixit, so I am not critiquing the author per se. This turned into a global recommendation for possible improvement in the fundamental approach that iFixit takes in writing ALL of the guides.

I agree with Jay 100% and I think the iFixit community would benefit tremendously if this suggestion were taken more seriously, namely that reassembly should be addressed as a separate instruction. Here is my further claim:

Reassembly is NEVER simply following disassembly instructions in reverse order.

It is never “just the reverse of removal.”

(Cont'd)

Paul -

("Never" part 2 of 4)

If you tend to disagree with my statement, simply try dragging the included YouTube video in reverse. Then try to follow that along while reassembling your phone. As just one example, see if you have great success reconnecting the battery connector to the logic board using the opening tool in the same manner as you used it during disassembly. Heck, try using the opening tool in a different manner if you like, but go ahead and reattach the connector using the opening tool. It is even called an “opening” tool - the very name of the tool shows you that it would NOT be included in a reversal of the instructions. That would require a “closing” tool. In this case, the “closing” tool is actually wisely recommended to be our fingers, applying gentle pressure, and in one case (I believe it was for the display connector) even pressing on the connector in a very particular manner (not much in the middle).

(Cont'd)

Paul -

("Never" part 3 of 4)

If you still question my claim that reassembly is never simply following disassembly instructions in reverse, it might be a very interesting exercise to record yourself actually reassembling the item (you already have the cameras present and rolling anyway, why not for a little while longer?). If you did that, and watched the assembly video side by side with the disassembly, you will quickly see all the many differences there are. I imagine that would be all it would take to convince "the powers that be" at iFixit that it would be a very good recommendation to authors that they complete the full round trip. Alternately, as I said, you could simply watch any of the current videos in reverse while actually performing reassembly, and could then at least add notes to existing content regarding the differences (as was done with the display connector NOTE found in this article above - I thought that was a really nice touch, BTW).

(Cont'd)

Paul -

("Never" part 4 of 4)

In closing, I really, really like iFixit, so I hope this recommendation is helpful and I hope it is received as such, as constructive criticism. Just trying to make iFixit even better, on its way to becoming an indispensable resource to all.  :-)

(End of "Never" comment)

Paul -

Pre-bend the new battery connector cable! If doing this again I would make sure I had pre-bent the connector cable the same way as the original battery is bent. I did not and then once the new battery was glued down I could not get at it well to bend it properly. I had to wedge the extra cable in a bit and then the very small extra thickness left a small color distortion on the screen due to the additional pressure on the back of the display.

SC - Reply

Es posible que al instalar una batería no original falle a continuación él detector de huella en un iPhone 6 ?

Jose Luis Arias - Reply

Well, I disassembled my work phone after buying just the battery. Now I find out the battery doesn’t come with these adhesive strips. Too late, I need this phone. Nice.

Wesley French - Reply

Hi Wesley!

I’m sorry to hear about the trouble. If you ordered just the battery and not the Fix Kit option, then the adhesive strips are not included and are sold separately. This is mentioned on the product page. If you’re still in need, you can find them right here: iPhone 6/6s/7 Battery Adhesive Strips

However, the battery should still technically perform just fine for you without the adhesive strips, as these are primarily used to keep the battery structurally adhered to the inside of the phone. If you are mindful of how well you handle your device (ie: Don’t throw it across the room, or go running with it in your hand), you shouldn’t have too much to worry about. Otherwise, it would be best to replicate the way the batteries come in all iPhones and get yourself a set of adhesive strips.

Kadan Sharpe -

Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the upper cable bracket:
  • Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the upper cable bracket:

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 2.2 mm screw

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Remove the upper cable bracket from the iPhone. Remove the upper cable bracket from the iPhone.
  • Remove the upper cable bracket from the iPhone.

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Remove the following four Phillips #00 screws from the contact bracket:
  • Remove the following four Phillips #00 screws from the contact bracket:

    • One 1.5 mm screw

    • One 1.4 mm screw

    • Two 2.1 mm screws

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Remove the contact bracket from the iPhone. Remove the contact bracket from the iPhone.
  • Remove the contact bracket from the iPhone.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the volume control cable connector up off of its socket. Only pry up on the connector, not the socket on the logic board or you risk permanent damage.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the volume control cable connector up off of its socket.

    • Only pry up on the connector, not the socket on the logic board or you risk permanent damage.

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Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the volume control cable brackets:
  • Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the volume control cable brackets:

    • Two 2.3 mm screws

    • One 1.8 mm scew

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Pull the hold switch and volume control button brackets away from the rear case to allow access to the button covers. Pull the hold switch and volume control button brackets away from the rear case to allow access to the button covers. Pull the hold switch and volume control button brackets away from the rear case to allow access to the button covers.
  • Pull the hold switch and volume control button brackets away from the rear case to allow access to the button covers.

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Begin to peel the volume control button cable up from the rear case starting from the connector end. Be gentle when peeling the thin portions of the cable up from the case. Remove the volume control button cable from the rear case.
  • Begin to peel the volume control button cable up from the rear case starting from the connector end.

    • Be gentle when peeling the thin portions of the cable up from the case.

  • Remove the volume control button cable from the rear case.

After unscrewing the metal bar that holds the cable, I had a lot of trouble with separating those two parts. After ripping it out the metal bar, I've found out that the cable was soldered to the bar. I tried to fit the cable again and screwed the metal bar back in but the mute switch is loose now and its impossible to change/switch it. Did any of you encounter this? Any ideas for that? This part is quite important but skipped by the guide.

ivul - Reply

Did you figure this out? I'm having the same problem with the mute switch being loose. It seems like it needs pressure on the top edge of the switch (ie. not the back of the switch where the metal bracket that screws into the phone casing, and not the front where the outer switch is). I can't figure out how to keep pressure on that top edge so the switch isn't loose.

Ed Varga -

I just did this repair. You have to use a soldering iron to melt the three plastic posts on the mute button. The posts need to be melted while you hold the mute button flush against the bracket with a pair of tweezers. Make sure the posts are melted all the way down to the bracket so it stays secure. Also, be sure not to allow the soldering iron tip touch the mute/volume flex cable. Cheers!

Eddie -

These instructions are not complete. The mute switch has to come apart which is not covered here and there are three plastic posts that have to go into the bracket. Disassembly of the flex needs to be covered in the final disassembly instructions. Also disassembly of the power buttons from the bracket should be covered in the instructions.

Bobby Gorden - Reply

As stated above, the instructions seem lacking with regard to the mute switch and the volume control buttons. The comments above were very helpful and luckily for me I have a soldering iron. On the mute button, there were two very small metal brackets I lifted up to release the mute button. I used an exacto knife to cut the rear of the three plastic posts. This released the old cable from the mute button bracket. I then installed the new cable to the mute button bracket and melted the three posts with a soldering iron. For the volume control bracket, I pried the metal bar off the bracket. I agonized as to how to replace the new cable with the micro switches to the metal bracket. Soldering seemed risky as I did not want to damage the micro switches. Since I was also replacing the battery, I had new adhesive strips for the battery. I cut a small strip of double sided adhesive adhere the micro switches to the bracket, being careful to align the plastic posts. All is well so far.

Scott Wilson - Reply

Please fix this post! The info about mute is very important.

nandogbr - Reply

The comments were very helpful in understanding how to remove the bracket from the mute button and then re-fix it using the soldering iron to melt the three plastic posts. However it was not clear for me from the comments how to remove the small metal plate that is that glued to the volume switches. And also what is the right procedure to refix this plate to the new cable. Since my problem is only that the up volume button is not working I decided to reassemble the phone waiting this guy to be a little bit more clear about this two topics.

gsanse - Reply

Does anyone know how to correctly attach the metal part with the colour to a new switch?

Tristan Bettesworth - Reply

Pull the volume control buttons by the metal bar to remove them from the rear case. The buttons are held to the case with an adhesive gasket, pull carefully to prevent ripping the membrane. The buttons are held to the case with an adhesive gasket, pull carefully to prevent ripping the membrane.
  • Pull the volume control buttons by the metal bar to remove them from the rear case.

    • The buttons are held to the case with an adhesive gasket, pull carefully to prevent ripping the membrane.

The buttons have a tiny magnet in the back that pushes into the brackets to actually turn the volume up or down. Without these magnets, the buttons will not work. If the buttons do not click when you push them, you may be missing the magnet.

jaimeharo - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Sam Lionheart

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One Comment

hello guys, i have a problem with installing the frets to put in silent, I noticed that there are small springs to adhere well to the external key to the internal mechanism, only to replace it I loosened a bit, and now the clips and some smollato ... you as you have done? have you also found this problem? I hope you can help me.

Best regards

Gabriele Maiorca - Reply

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