Introduction

Use this guide to remove your power button for cleaning, or to replace a scuffed button cover. This guide is for the aluminum button cover, not the mechanical button itself. Use the power button cable guide to replace the mechanical switch.

You can also use this guide to replace the upper cable bracket.

Image 1/1: Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

When reconnecting be VERY careful not to over tighten. The connectors on the screen that these 3.6mm Pentalobe screws lock with are notorious for breaking off

Blair Tryba - Reply

Before opening the phone, I gently warmed it using a buckwheat heating pad. This made removal of the adhesive strips (steps 20 to 24) easy.

Howard Bales - Reply

Image 1/1: If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone 6.
  • The next three steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 6 that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to Step 5.

  • If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone 6.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

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Image 1/2: Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, just above (but not covering) the home button. Image 2/2: Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.
  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups.

    • Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, just above (but not covering) the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

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Image 1/2: The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the display cables. Image 2/2: Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.
  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the display cables.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 8.

The iSclack opened the iPhone 6 with little effort. I could have given even less opening pressure than I did. Fantastic tool. Worth the investment.

Tim Dougherty - Reply

It's never mentioned anywhere that with iSclack even if you save the cables, glass easily detach from plastic frame. When you ri-assembly the phone, this will involve a glass not perfectly adherent to the body. In my opinion is better if you help yourself with a spudger to lift frame from rear case when you are using the iSclack.

marco bigoni - Reply

Image 1/1: Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.
  • If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

    • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the cup is pressed securely onto the screen to get a tight seal.

This is nearly impossible on a screen that is shattered

Erik Madsen - Reply

Try putting a strip of packing tape on the screen. That will make the surface smooth and help keep the suction.

Joanna - Reply

Image 1/1: Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.
  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

  • Using a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while continuing to pull up with the suction cup.

  • There are several clips holding the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

Pulling up on the suction cup helped get me started, but what worked for me was pulling up gently while sliding the plastic prybar gently along the seam towards the top of the phone (on both sides), and it came open without having to put excess pressure on the suction.

lauren carroll - Reply

Same here, just open the gap a little with the suction cup and then use the opening tool on both sides.

Tobias - Reply

Along with the suction cup I used some Command adhesive strips to hold the bottom of the phone to a workbench as they easily pull/stretch away when you need to remove them!

Dion Sosa - Reply

Image 1/2: Remove the suction cup from the display assembly. Image 2/2: Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
  • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

  • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

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Image 1/3: Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge. Image 2/3: During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case. Image 3/3: During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.
  • Open the iPhone by swinging the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

    • Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge.

    • During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.

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Image 1/3: In a pinch, an unopened canned beverage works well for this. Image 2/3: Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables. Image 3/3: Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • In a pinch, an unopened canned beverage works well for this.

  • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

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Image 1/1: One 2.2 mm screw
  • Remove the following Phillips screws from the battery connector bracket:

    • One 2.2 mm screw

    • One 3.2 mm screw

#000 needed here

David Pobuda - Reply

These screws require a Phillips #000 not Phillips #00 bit.

David Powell - Reply

I replace the antenna in the upper left-hand corner an in the bottom middle with the lightning connector because After disassemble it completely i lose my ability to have Cellular. After i replace both antennas i can find i nevertheless have cellular. anybody an idea ?

kupies2011 - Reply

@davidsapowell @David+Pobuda - I've submitted an update per your comments. Thanks for the guidance!

Nate Schley - Reply

With the phillips screwdriver included in the repair kit I cannot unscrew any of the interior screws because it is not the right size even though according to these comments all of the screws are #000 and on the product listing it says that the screwdriver I got is #000. Any suggestions?

Wilson Styres - Reply

Upon reassembly I found the Red 2.2 mm screw won't seat. Is it possible it sheared off? The Orange 3.2 is solid in both holes but 2.2 doesn't securely fit in either.. Should I just leave off the 2.2?

smcgreg - Reply

Duh, had the cover on the wrong way. Switched it around and the screw fit. (:

smcgreg - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Why in the YouTube video do you skip removing the battery connector

mjcoughlin70 - Reply

Where to buy this bracket?

syidan - Reply

Image 1/1: Take care to only pry up on the battery connector, and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Take care to only pry up on the battery connector, and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

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Image 1/1: Three 1.2 mm screws
  • Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    • One 3.1 mm screw

  • Incorrect placement of these screws during reassembly will cause permanent damage to your iPhone's logic board.

Be careful when replacing the screws, not to accidentally put the 1.7mm screw into the center hole, where the 1.2 screw belongs. This can cause "Long Screw" damage, and render your phone unusable.

damianodessgillett - Reply

I don't have the magnetic pad but use duct tape face up in a tray. I write the step number and color of the screw on the sticky surface and let the screw stand heads up on the goo. The screw is presented for the driver when reassembling.

griffn - Reply

Can't stress enough how important it is not to mix up these screws! Using the 1.7mm screw for the lower left fixing will cause "long screw damage" and kill the backlight on the phone. I believe @damianodessgillett made the same point. Wish we could display a small warning message here to be extra careful for future fixers!

kev - Reply

I use a screw ID technique similar to griffn's; I print out the PDF version of the guide, then Scotch-tape each screw type to the guide at the step where the screw was removed. The screws are then distinguished by size and type at the point where they need to be reinstalled.

adlerpe - Reply

i am trying but only could open 2 screws and cannot open the rest of them, can you help me??

girlsrock742 - Reply

@girlsrock742 - I'm new here, but from what I've seen, questions like yours don't get answered. I have 2 suggestions:

# Be more specific about what your issue is.

# Make sure you're using the right screwdriver. (Get a magnifying glass & make sure the screwdriver fits nicely in the screwhead.) This guide is included in a guide I'm looking at, and my guide has a comment that #000 phillips is required for the battery connector bracket above, not #00 as documented. (That comment did not convey to this guide....)

Good luck!

Nate Schley - Reply

Thanks to @griffn & @adlerpe! I've updated the tools list to include the magnetic pad, and -- for us infrequent fixers -- I made a note in the intro text to describe the sort of thing you two noted here in place of the mag pad.

Also, to @damianodessgillett & @kev - I've submitted an update to the instructions to add the caution you recommend to the step. Hopefully others will avoid the pain of the Long Screw damage.

Nate Schley - Reply

It's possible to damage only a slot of flex cable ? I've opened my iPhone 6 but now front camera, speaker and the proximity sensor are not working. I've bought a new flex cabe to test it, but I have to be sure about that.

cruz.giovanni - Reply

I'm so worried I'm going insert the wrong screw. Does anyone have any suggestions to knowing how to properly tell the size of each screw? I bought a screw set and a magnetic pad but still have the same issue. Not knowing the correct placement of each screw. I'd definitely appreciate any help.

Patric - Reply

Hi Patric! We use a set of calipers to measure our screws, failing that you could use a very fine ruler. If you don't have any kind of measuring equipment, line the screws up on the magnetic mat and sort them by size there. Ideally you only have screws from this step! If you are trying to determine the size of all the screws in this guide, it's probably best to get a real ruler/caliper for the fine distinctions.

Sam Lionheart -

Do you have to remove the display to replace the battery?

Michael Aguilera - Reply

It's not absolutely necessary to remove the display, I kept my display propped up throughout the operation. Removal of the display doesn't seem to offer any particular benefit, unless you have problems with the adhesive strips.

Adam - Reply

Hi. I messed up with the screws in the cover guard sheet for the display ribbon and my iPhone 6 plus isn't turning on. Does that mean the logic board is dead or the battery ? Should I throw the phone in the garbage can ?

nzf - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector. Image 2/2: Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.
  • In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets on the logic board.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

I can not get these electrical connections to reconnect. If there is some secret to this it should be noted. I now have a phone all taken apart and can not get it back together. It makes no sense to only give directions to take a phone apart and not to put it back together.

douglas hughes - Reply

Use sideways bright light and peek underneath as you mate the contacts to align properly. Press very gently and evenly. Others have written that too much pressure in the center may warp the contact.

mahoffman - Reply

I'm having the same problem as above...really upset and frustrated at this point. :( 2/4 connectors (top and right) will 'click' just fine...the other two (bottom two) for the life of me wont connect!!!! :( any suggestions? i feel like i have tried everything. Sucks that is only thing stopping me screen from being repaired....

alyssaavaldezz - Reply

Hi alyssa. Were you able to connect the cables? I am having the same problem

Veronica del Rio -

regarding cable connects - if two of the ribbon cables are not properly overlapped around each other, then it will appear as if cable #2 will need to plug into the closest jack, which is actually for cable#3. Look at the two connectors carefully - they are opposite gender and can't be interchanged.

David Panak - Reply

This is good advice, and usually the problem people experience here. There is a very specific way the ribbon cables are layered, and if not correct when reassembled, the reach of the cables will cause you to assume which cable goes where and to try to insert the wrong plugs into the wrong sockets. Please do not try to force them. If they don't snap in easily, examine them closely, and you'll see the plugs and sockets are slightly different sizes, with one wider than the other. Better to take care to note how the cables layer during disassembly, or perhaps mark them to avoid this frustration on reassembly.

gybeho -

Check order of cables. From screen replacement.

lee moran - Reply

my problem is that the connectors are different the screen i replaced it with the connectors were longer than the broken screen even though there the exact same type of screen

andrew midgett - Reply

Probably just have the cables out of order. Check the posts above.

gybeho - Reply

"gybeho" Ok, but it's impossible to install flex cables out of order. Each one has diferent sizes of docking...

cruz.giovanni - Reply

it is very possible to install flex cables out of order. to most people working on their first screen replacement they do not have the experience to notice that their flex cable connection is different than the dock connection. this causes them to press harder and force the connection into the dock, ruining the connections, if they do not think the they have the cables out of order

Dakota Navarrete - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector.

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Image 1/2: When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to [guide|29363|disconnect and reconnect the battery connector|stepid=69537]. Image 2/2: When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to [guide|29363|disconnect and reconnect the battery connector|stepid=69537].
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display data cable connector.

  • When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.

you missed the name of the second connctor. there are four total

copykatt - Reply

My screen is completely black and i can see the lights turning on when i press the home or lock button. Maybe this cable got damaged ?

Gabriel Hirata - Reply

Perhaps you bought a faulty screen. Often this is the case when it shows completely black.

William Mullan - Reply

When I was preforming this step, while reassembling, I had to connect the digitizer cable four times. On the last time, before screwing the Front Panel Assembly Cable Bracket on, I reconnected the battery connector and turned my phone on (ensuring that I was careful not to damage any cables!) to ensure that all cables were connected correctly and that the screen was fully functional.

Christopher - Reply

NO NO NO ! i am a professional iphone repairman and i strongly recommend against using ANY tool to disconnect the flex connectors if u slip or use to much force you will damage the connector and may cause permanent damage to the phones logic board rendering it completely UNrepairable! Instead gently use the edge of your fingernail and pry up and the connectors will usually come off with very little effort .

taylor sparks - Reply

I'm pretty sure ifixit are pros, I used them 4 times to fix phones and no problems with using tools for flex cables.

Dave - Reply

Image 1/2: When reconnecting the digitizer cable, '''do not press the center of the connector'''. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage. Image 2/2: When reconnecting the digitizer cable, '''do not press the center of the connector'''. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

  • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Reassembly was harder than other i devices I have worked on. A bench light from the side helped a lot with the first cable, the digitizer. The others went a bit better in this crowded space. I had screen lines when testing it out before closing the top, so reinstalled all four connectors here with the aid of a side light and happily, that worked!

griffn - Reply

i crossed over the first two cables initially, when re-assembled; make sure by the WIDTH that you are trying to connect them in the right order.

awr - Reply

How many times can i peel these connections without braking the connection between screen and logic borad

falken1337 - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

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Image 1/2: Press to eject the tray. Image 2/2: This may require a significant amount of force.
  • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

  • Press to eject the tray.

  • This may require a significant amount of force.

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Image 1/1: When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.
  • Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the iPhone.

  • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Lightning connector assembly cable and fold it out of the way of the speaker.

How vital is that foam looking piece on top of the antenna cable connector? It popped off when I was lifting.

Carter Christie - Reply

Same thing happened to me. I hope it's not too vital!

paulflicker - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the point of a spudger to lift the antenna cable connector up off of its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/1: One 2.9 mm Phillips #00 screw
  • Remove the following Phillips screws from the upper cable bracket:

    • One 2.9 mm Phillips #00 screw

    • One 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the upper cable bracket from the iPhone.

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Image 1/3: Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the power button and flash assembly cable connector up off of its socket. Image 2/3: Lift the volume control cable connector up out of its socket on the logic board. Image 3/3: Lift the volume control cable connector up out of its socket on the logic board.
  • When disconnecting the following connectors, only pry up on the connector, not the socket on the logic board or you risk permanent damage.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the power button and flash assembly cable connector up off of its socket.

  • Lift the volume control cable connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/1: One 1.5 mm screw
  • Remove the following four Phillips #00 screws from the Wi-Fi antenna:

    • One 1.5 mm screw

    • One 1.4 mm screw

    • Two 2.1 mm screws

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Image 1/2: Be careful not to touch any metal to metal contact points with your bare fingers—use tweezers or gloves. Finger oils may disrupt conductivity. If you do touch any of these components, clean them with a degreaser like windex or isopropyl alcohol before reassembly. Image 2/2: Be careful not to touch any metal to metal contact points with your bare fingers—use tweezers or gloves. Finger oils may disrupt conductivity. If you do touch any of these components, clean them with a degreaser like windex or isopropyl alcohol before reassembly.
  • Remove the Wi-Fi antenna from the iPhone.

  • Be careful not to touch any metal to metal contact points with your bare fingers—use tweezers or gloves. Finger oils may disrupt conductivity. If you do touch any of these components, clean them with a degreaser like windex or isopropyl alcohol before reassembly.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #00 screws from the grounding bracket.

I have assembled an iPhone 6 and it seems that everything goes fine except the NFC. The phone does not respond to the POS when using Apple Pay. I think there should be some poor connection between the logic board and NFC antenna. If so, which screws should I scrutinise to fix this problem? Thank you.

facebook - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the grounding bracket from the iPhone.

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Image 1/2: One 2.6 mm screw Image 2/2: One 1.3 mm screw, located horizontally in the upper sidewall of the iPhone.
  • Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the angled logic board bracket.

    • One 2.6 mm screw

    • One 1.3 mm screw, located horizontally in the upper sidewall of the iPhone.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the angled logic board bracket.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the single 1.2 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the antenna interconnect cable to the logic board.

Make sure to tighten these screws well when reassembling so you don't have issues with cellular reception. Had a phone that wouldn't connect to cellular connection after a screen replacement. I tightened the screw and it started working again.

Christian Abreu - Reply

If you got those strips you will have to remove the screen again and make sure you're plugging properly all the flex cables to the lógica board. Try to push them from the right to the left side.

Jas - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the point of a spudger to fold the antenna interconnect cable up out of the way of the logic board.

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Image 1/3: Be sure to only pry on the connector '''not''' the socket itself or you can cause permanent damage to the logic board. Image 2/3: Fold the camera cable up out of the way of the logic board. Image 3/3: Fold the camera cable up out of the way of the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the camera cable connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to only pry on the connector not the socket itself or you can cause permanent damage to the logic board.

  • Fold the camera cable up out of the way of the logic board.

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Image 1/1: Two 1.9 mm Phillips #00 screws
  • Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear case:

    • Two 1.9 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • One 2.3 mm standoff screw

      • Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove these standoff screws.

      • During reassembly, you can use the tip of a spudger to get the standoff screw started.

The standoff screw was difficult to remove because a normal phillips head screwdriver is the wrong shape. I had to use a small flat head screwdriver carefully to get it off.

Matthew Williams - Reply

I absolutely can not get this standoff screw off. Searching the web now for "iphone standoff screw" I see that there are specialized screwdrivers for getting this screw off. I wish I had one right at this moment! Anyway, an improvement to these instructions would be to mention this standoff screw upfront, so that one can be prepared with the right screwdriver before starting this job. I'm stuck at this step right now. A small flathead screwdriver just isn't cutting it.

paulflicker - Reply

Hello. I used a 1.5 mm flat screwdriver from iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit. It worked easily for me.

Angelo Mastrella -

Image 1/2: Insert the spudger near the metal shields below the SIM card tray to avoid damaging any chips or sockets. Image 2/2: Insert the spudger near the metal shields below the SIM card tray to avoid damaging any chips or sockets.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector end of the logic board up slightly, just enough to grab with your fingers.

    • Insert the spudger near the metal shields below the SIM card tray to avoid damaging any chips or sockets.

Where is a safe place to put the logic board one removed?

Carter Christie - Reply

Where can i buy a motherboard for my iphone 6

Jeffrey Dennis - Reply

Image 1/3: Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables. Image 2/3: Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables. Image 3/3: Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.
  • Lift the battery connector end of the logic board and pull it up and out of the rear case.

    • Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.

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Image 1/1: Use your fingers or blunt tweezers, and be extra careful when working near the battery—puncturing a lithium-ion battery can release dangerous chemicals and cause a fire.
  • Peel back the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom right edge of the battery.

  • Use your fingers or blunt tweezers, and be extra careful when working near the battery—puncturing a lithium-ion battery can release dangerous chemicals and cause a fire.

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Image 1/3: Try not to pull against the battery or the lower components, or you may rip the adhesive strip. Image 2/3: Continue pulling, allowing the strip to slowly slip out from between the battery and the rear case. When you feel increased resistance from the strip, stop pulling and continue with the next step. Image 3/3: If the battery adhesive tabs break off at any point during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.
  • Gently pull the battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

    • Try not to pull against the battery or the lower components, or you may rip the adhesive strip.

  • Continue pulling, allowing the strip to slowly slip out from between the battery and the rear case. When you feel increased resistance from the strip, stop pulling and continue with the next step.

  • If the battery adhesive tabs break off at any point during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.

    • If one of the adhesive strips breaks under the battery during this procedure, and cannot be retrieved, remove the remaining strip, and then proceed to Step 44.

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Image 1/3: Continue pulling the adhesive tab upward and away from the right edge of the battery, allowing it to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case, until the strip comes free from the iPhone. Image 2/3: Don't allow the adhesive strip to snag on the battery connector, or it may tear or break off. Image 3/3: Don't allow the adhesive strip to snag on the battery connector, or it may tear or break off.
  • When you feel increased resistance from the adhesive strip, pull it gently around the lower right corner of the battery.

  • Continue pulling the adhesive tab upward and away from the right edge of the battery, allowing it to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case, until the strip comes free from the iPhone.

  • Don't allow the adhesive strip to snag on the battery connector, or it may tear or break off.

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Image 1/2: Again, gently pull the battery adhesive tab upward and away from the battery, allowing the adhesive strip to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case. Image 2/2: Continue pulling the adhesive tab until you feel increased resistance, and then stop.
  • Peel back the second battery adhesive tab from the bottom left edge of the battery.

  • Again, gently pull the battery adhesive tab upward and away from the battery, allowing the adhesive strip to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case.

  • Continue pulling the adhesive tab until you feel increased resistance, and then stop.

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Image 1/1: Don't allow the adhesive strip to snag on the corner of the battery, or it may tear or break off.
  • When you feel increased resistance from the adhesive strip, pull it gently around the lower left corner of the battery.

  • Don't allow the adhesive strip to snag on the corner of the battery, or it may tear or break off.

  • Continue pulling the adhesive tab upward and away from the left edge of the battery, allowing it to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case, until the strip comes free from the iPhone.

    • If you removed both adhesive strips successfully, skip the next two steps and continue on Step 46.

    • If either of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, continue with the next step below.

im so confused, with the whole battery thing, do you use the same battery? or a new on? because the tabs i saw how u had to pull them off. will the battery will work without the glue tabs?

Kaylie McClain - Reply

You can absolutely re-use your old battery, particularly if it's in good condition and holds a charge. You should replace the adhesive strips; there's a link to instructions a few steps below. The battery will work without the adhesive strips, but may rattle around inside your phone.

Jeff Suovanen -

Image 1/1:
  • If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.

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Image 1/1: Be careful to keep the card as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals.
  • Insert a plastic card under the logic board edge of the battery.

  • Be careful to keep the card as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals.

  • Press the card in at several points if necessary to break up the adhesive behind the battery.

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Image 1/1: When reinstalling the battery, refer to [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+Battery+Adhesive+Strips+Replacement/56465|this guide] to replace your battery's adhesive strips.
  • After peeling or prying out all adhesive, remove the battery from the iPhone.

  • When reinstalling the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove any tape covering the upper left rear-facing camera screw.

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Image 1/1: One 1.5 mm screw
  • Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the rear-facing camera bracket:

    • One 1.5 mm screw

    • One 2.1 mm screw

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the rear-facing camera bracket.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Carefully remove the antenna interconnect cable from the rear case.

Anyone know what the Antenna Interconnect does? I replaced my rear housing with a clear plastic one I ordered from someone off DHGate, and they didn't have the screw mount for that interconnect, so I wasn't able to re-attach it. I couldn't figure out what it does, and the phone seems to work without putting that screw back in. I'm suspicious that bracket must do SOMETHING, right?

ben - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the rear-facing camera from the iPhone.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the single 1.2 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the flash bracket.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the flash bracket from the rear case.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 2.2 mm Phillips #00 screws from the power button bracket.

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Image 1/3: If you encounter significant adhesive, use tweezers to peel the components up from the rear case. Image 2/3: If you encounter significant adhesive, use tweezers to peel the components up from the rear case. Image 3/3: If you encounter significant adhesive, use tweezers to peel the components up from the rear case.
  • Use the point of a spudger to gently push the flash and microphone modules up out of their respective holes in the rear case.

  • If you encounter significant adhesive, use tweezers to peel the components up from the rear case.

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Image 1/3: Continue to peel the cable up, being particularly careful of the narrow component ends of the cable. Image 2/3: Remove the flash/microphone/power button assembly cable from the phone. Image 3/3: Remove the flash/microphone/power button assembly cable from the phone.
  • Begin to peel the flash/microphone/power button assembly cable up from the rear case starting from the connector end.

  • Continue to peel the cable up, being particularly careful of the narrow component ends of the cable.

  • Remove the flash/microphone/power button assembly cable from the phone.

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Image 1/2: The power button is held to the case with an adhesive gasket, pull carefully to prevent ripping the membrane. Image 2/2: The power button is held to the case with an adhesive gasket, pull carefully to prevent ripping the membrane.
  • Grip the power button by the metal bar to pull it free from the rear case.

  • The power button is held to the case with an adhesive gasket, pull carefully to prevent ripping the membrane.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

21 other people completed this guide.

Sam Lionheart

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8 Comments

Ive recently done a full housing change on my iphone 6 plus to a black one since doing it the power button doesnt work its rock solid i used original power button (space gray) and original flex cable once istalled it just wont press

The only way it works is if i leave the power button screws slightly loose which is a pain becasue the button loosens itself anyone had anything similar or is it the way its been installed ?? All other buttons work correctly mute switch and volume buttons

marcusdean2009 - Reply

Hello marcusdean2009 this problem occurs because the new carcass have the power button screw hole a little bit long than the original one. And yes, you will have to let the power button screws slightly loose to make the power button work

Ricardo Gomes -

My power button is a little bit loose. There's still clicking sound but not same as the other normal button,the button also seems 'into' or 'concave ' compare to normal button.while the power button with long shape also seems just have a clicking sound when I press the middle part of button but not the upper and lower part of button.when I press the upper and lower part,it is soft and without clicking sound and springing feel. I used to replace the flex cable, but it still loose,is it the matter of the quality for the flex cable or the improperly attach of rubber gasket or the scuffed of little metal tip of the power button? Please reply me.

cyg - Reply

Hi, after e I've assembled the iPhone power button is ok .... the flash does not work and the rear camera does not take more photos...i can see word the rear camera and i can record a video but no photo. How can i fix it?

Michele - Reply

Great job on this guide. What could have been a pain in the butt has been an easy fix/replacement thanks to this guide. Thank you for taking the time to do this. Just plain awesome.

Jesus Juarez - Reply

Another great guide. definitely one of the more difficult repairs that I've done but if yours careful, follow the guide, and isolate your screws and parts, it's simple.

I use a deviled egg travel tray to keep my things divided. it's wide and has a lid if you need to stop in the middle of a repair. keep the animal hair and dust out at least.

Joseph Gans - Reply

Hi. Excellent guide!!

Since opening my phone to replace the battery, everything works fine except the power button... it still click, but doesn't do anything. Won't be able to power off or reset the phone, or take screenshots! Is there anything I should check? What could I possibly have broken?

geoffsaulnier - Reply

hello guys, i have a problem with the installation of the new circuit of the power button, the power button must have the clip facing up or down? more to me and seemed to have to pay off the frets to its support because even the original had been settled, I hope you can help me.

Best regards

Gabriele Maiorca - Reply

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