Tools
Parts
Introduction
Use this guide to replace a scratched or damaged rear case.
This guide requires removing the battery. When reinstalling the battery in your new case, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips. The battery is pretty tightly secured in the device, but reinstalling it properly will keep it from rattling.
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Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.
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If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone 6 Plus.
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Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction cup jaws.
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Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups.
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Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.
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Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.
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Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.
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Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 7.
It's very difficult if you want to remove a cracked screen. The suction cup and Islack won't work. Does anybody know a better way?
I don't recommend replacing the home button. HOWEVER, I would purchase an iSesamo tool (I paid $8 for a 3 pack on FleaBay) and jam that in between the frame and bezel. Most effective way to open a iPhone. Once you get used to it an iSesamo becomes an extension of your arm.
I use Scotch Tape, shipping tape. Put a couple of layers over the crack screen. That seals it so you can use the suction cup to remove the front of phone.
I used the plastic pry took and the spudger to open it up. I place the pry tool dead center below the home button and was able to put some pressure around the seam and the top popped up enough for me to get the spudger in there to hold it open and then work my way around with the plastic pry tool.
Apply clear packaging tape to screen. Then suction cup to that.
Tracey -
Use clear nontextured tape place that over the phone screen. Refer to any guide that addresses replacing a shattered screen
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If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:
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Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.
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While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.
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Using a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while continuing to pull up with the suction cup.
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Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.
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Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
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Pull the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.
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Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
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Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
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Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the battery connector bracket:
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One 2.3 mm Phillips #00 screw
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One 3.1 mm Phillips #00 screw
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Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.
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Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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While holding the front panel open at about a 90º angle, remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:
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Three 1.2 mm Phillips #00 screws
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One 1.5 mm Phillips #00 screw
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One 2.9 mm Phillips #00 screw
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I _love_ the color coding of screws. I know this is a little OCD, but it would be incredibly useful if there were an 8.5 X 11 you could print with indicated homes for where to drop items from each step of disassembly. That is, in the box for step 9, little colored circles for where to place each screw type. As long as you don't jostle the paper, it would make it a lot easier to know exactly where you are in reassembly.
On my iPhone 6 plus, none of the screws listed in this step are removable with the Phillips 00 screwdriver! I got this far and now am stymied because I can't get these four screws out! Any other screwdrivers I should use?
You are absolutely right, and you will strip the heads if you try very hard with the PH00. These screws are all PH000.
oscar -
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Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.
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While still supporting the front panel, use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and earpiece speaker cable connector.
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Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the home button cable connector.
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Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the display data cable connector.
The piece of advice about power cycling the phone by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery proved crucial to the success of my repair (camera and lens replacement). At first when charging the phone after closing it, I got a dark, blank screen with an intermittent buzzing noise. After re-opening the phone and making sure all cables had been properly reconnected, I ignored the advice to power cycle the phone. Still all I got was a dark, blank screen (and intermittent buzzing if charging t). Then I opened it a third time (leaving the screen connected and attached at a 90 degree angle) and I only disconnected and reconnected the battery. Voila! When I closed the phone and powered it up, I got the screen to light up!
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Finally, use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.
some images and guidance regarding reassembly would be helpful. You don't need to use the spudger to get them back on: fingers are better because there's a really subtle click you feel when you get them seated properly.
When you're reassembling, a note that this is the step where you should test for proper screen function would be really useful. First time I reassembled, I didn't seat something properly, got all the screws back together and then realized the screen wasn't functioning properly. Had to disassemble back down to step 14 and then re-reassemble.
I am having this issues right now! I have unplugged and plugged in these cables at least 20 times and each time I get white lines. I finally have it to where there are only 4 white lines and I am almost willing to live with it. Any suggestions?
Clean the screen connectors incase they are not making a clean connection
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Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.
Never remove the screen without disconnecting the battery. It's possible the back light can be blown and that's a even more difficult repair. Always, ALWAYS, disconnect battery before repairing items. (Unless it's not possible.)
How do you disconnect the battery from the screen?
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Peel back the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom right edge of the battery.
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Gently pull the battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
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To avoid tearing the adhesive strip, be careful not to pull against the battery or lower components.
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Continue pulling, allowing the strip to slowly slip out from between the battery and the rear case. When you feel increased resistance from the strip, stop pulling and continue with the next step.
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When you feel increased resistance from the adhesive strip, pull it gently around the lower right corner of the battery.
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Continue pulling the adhesive tab upward and away from the right edge of the battery, allowing it to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case, until the strip comes free from the iPhone.
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Peel back the second battery adhesive tab from the bottom left edge of the battery.
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Again, gently pull the battery adhesive tab upward and away from the battery, allowing the adhesive strip to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case.
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Continue pulling the adhesive tab until you feel increased resistance, and then stop.
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When you feel increased resistance from the adhesive strip, pull it gently around the lower left corner of the battery.
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Continue pulling the adhesive tab upward and away from the left edge of the battery, allowing it to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case, until the strip comes free from the iPhone.
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Peel back the final battery adhesive tab from the bottom edge of the battery.
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Gently pull the battery adhesive tab upward and away from the battery, allowing the adhesive strip to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case.
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Continue pulling until the final strip comes free from the iPhone.
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If you removed all three adhesive strips successfully, skip the next two steps and continue on Step 28.
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If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.
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Flip the iPhone back over and insert a plastic card between the left side of the battery and the rear case.
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Press the card in farther to break up the adhesive behind the battery.
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Remove the battery from the iPhone.
Would be helpful to add an image of how to apply the new adhesive to the new battery and then seat it into the phone. Removing the adhesive you're blind to how it all fits in there.
I agree with this. The included strips were very difficult to use and I ended up scrapping them and using some double sided screen tape that I had laying around.
Apart from that the instructions were fine, I completed the task in about 20 minutes which included disassembling a second time to re-seat the display connectors.
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Remove the following screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket to the rear case:
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One 1.7 mm Phillips #00 screw
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One 2.3 mm Phillips #00 screw
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Lift and remove the rear-facing camera bracket out of the iPhone.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector from its socket on the logic board.
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Carefully lift and remove the rear-facing camera out of the iPhone.
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Remove the following screws securing the antenna bracket to the rear case:
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One 1.5 mm Phillips #00 screw
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One 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screw
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Grasp the antenna bracket with a pair of tweezers and lift it off the iPhone.
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Carefully pry the antenna connector up off the logic board with a plastic opening tool.
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Grasp the antenna connector with a pair of tweezers and gently lift it from its retaining clip on the logic board.
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Disconnect the power button cable and audio control cable connectors from their respective sockets on the logic board.
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Remove the following screws securing the top cellular antenna to the rear case:
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One 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screw
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Two 1.6 mm Phillips #00 screws
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Use a pair of tweezers to grasp and remove the top cellular antenna out of the iPhone.
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Pry the vibrator connector cable up from its socket on the logic board with the flat end of a spudger.
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Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the interconnect antenna cable from its socket on the logic board.
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Grasp the interconnect antenna cable with a pair of tweezers and carefully deroute it from its channel on the speaker assembly.
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Remove the two 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the vibrator to the rear case.
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Lift and remove the vibrator out of the iPhone.
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Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.
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Press to eject the tray.
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Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.
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Remove the single 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the plastic clip to the logic board.
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Remove the single 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screw recessed against the top of the rear case.
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Use a pair of tweezers to firmly grasp the plastic clip and remove it from the iPhone.
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Remove the single 1.6 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the antenna clip to the rear case.
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Carefully grasp the antenna clip with a pair of tweezers and remove it from the iPhone.
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Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear case:
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Two 2.4 mm standoff screws
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One 2.1 mm Phillips #00 screw
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Carefully raise—but do not remove—the logic board, lifting it from the bottom edge nearest the Lightning connector.
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Continue carefully lifting the bottom side of the logic board until it is vertical.
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Gently lay the logic board upside-down, with the top portion resting against the rear case of the iPhone.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the antenna connector from its socket on the back of the logic board.
An extra step needs to be added. the 1.3 millimeter Phillips head #00 screw retaining the antenna to the frame needs to be removed and then the antenna removed.
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Lift and remove the logic board out of the iPhone.
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Use a pair of tweezers to peel the single adhesive tab that resides on top of both the power button and audio control/rocker switch cable connectors.
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Remove the single 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the power button cable bracket to the rear case.
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Carefully grasp the bracket with a pair of tweezers and remove it from the iPhone.
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Remove the following screws securing the power button cable bracket to the inner edge of the rear case:
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One 2.1 mm Phillips #00 screw
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One 1.7 mm Phillips #00 screw
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Grasp the power button cable bracket with a pair of tweezers and remove it from the iPhone.
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Remove the single 2.1 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the power button switch to the rear case.
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Pull the power button switch out of its recess on the rear case with a pair of tweezers, and begin carefully peeling the power button cable from the rear case.
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Continue gently peeling the power button cable off the rear case and remove it from the iPhone.
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Remove the following screws securing the audio controls and rocker switch to the rear case:
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Two 2.0 mm Phillips #00 screws
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One 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screw
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Grasp the audio control and rocker switch cable with a pair of tweezers.
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Slowly peel the audio control and rocker switch cable up off the rear case.
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Use the tip of a spudger to push the audio control and rocker switch buttons out of their recess on the rear case.
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Gently grasp both top and bottom audio control buttons with a pair of tweezers and remove them from the iPhone.
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Grasp the antenna connector with a pair of tweezers and carefully begin de-routing it from its channel on the speaker.
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Remove the following screws securing the speaker to the rear case:
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One 2.3 mm Phillips #00 screw
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One 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screw
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Lift and remove the speaker out of the iPhone.
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Remove the two 3.3 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the metal bracket to the Lightning connector assembly.
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Use a pair of tweezers to lift and remove the metal bracket out of the iPhone.
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Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the antenna connector cable up off its socket on the Lightning connector assembly.
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Lift and remove the antenna connector out of the iPhone.
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Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the Lightning connector assembly to the rear case:
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Two 3.2 mm screws
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One 3.8 mm screw
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Two 1.7 mm screws
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Two 1.5 mm screws
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Two 1.4 mm screws
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Use a pair of tweezers to grasp the plastic clip that is situated to the right of the headphone jack and remove it from the iPhone.
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Use an opening pick to slowly separate the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable from the rear case.
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Insert the pick underneath the right bottom corner of the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable.
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Run the opening pick across the top of Lightning connector and headphone jack cable to loosen the adhesive securing it to the rear case.
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Lift and remove the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable assembly out of the iPhone.
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Rear case remains.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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2 Comments
what are the 5 metal "spacers" attached to the housing? they are simplistic metal spacing bars with a tiny rubber block. all held to the left side and right side walls with 2 screws per spacer. The instructions totally skipped this step about removing them. all housings i see being sold do not include them, so wouldnt you want to move them over too?
step 84, When you have finished tearing it all down, there are a couple of things you missed, the rubber piece that is connected to the case near the speaker and the charging port housing when you remove the board at the bottom.