Introduction

Use this guide to replace a scratched or damaged rear case.

This guide requires removing the battery. When reinstalling the battery in your new case, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips. The battery is pretty tightly secured in the device, but reinstalling it properly will keep it from rattling.

Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm P2 Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

Pentalobe P2

Enea Del Lama - Reply

I prefer to remove the SIM card as the very first step since it's safer to do so while the phone is fully assembled.

estebanfallasf - Reply

I stripped one of the two screws - at a dead stop.

Margaret Patterson - Reply

  • The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 6 Plus that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to Step 4.

  • If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone 6 Plus.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction cup jaws.

  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups.

    • Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, near the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

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Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case. The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any of the display cables.
  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any of the display cables.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 7.

It's very difficult if you want to remove a cracked screen. The suction cup and Islack won't work. Does anybody know a better way?

Herbert - Reply

I don't recommend replacing the home button. HOWEVER, I would purchase an iSesamo tool (I paid $8 for a 3 pack on FleaBay) and jam that in between the frame and bezel. Most effective way to open a iPhone. Once you get used to it an iSesamo becomes an extension of your arm.

iRevive Mobile -

I use Scotch Tape, shipping tape. Put a couple of layers over the crack screen. That seals it so you can use the suction cup to remove the front of phone.

Michael Wallace -

I used the plastic pry took and the spudger to open it up. I place the pry tool dead center below the home button and was able to put some pressure around the seam and the top popped up enough for me to get the spudger in there to hold it open and then work my way around with the plastic pry tool.

johnoconna -

Apply clear packaging tape to screen. Then suction cup to that.

Tracey -

Use clear nontextured tape place that over the phone screen. Refer to any guide that addresses replacing a shattered screen

Abigail Cherry - Reply

I know it's tough with cracked glass. You just need enough to get in a plstic pry tool or guitar pick. Then you can pry it apart. Just be patient, I cannot stress that enough; the electronics are very, very small and fragile.

Mike - Reply

If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:
  • If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

    • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the cup is pressed securely onto the screen to get a tight seal.

Avec la ventouse, l’ouverture est brutale, tout s’est déclipsé d’un seul coup. Faire attention.

Paul Briffaut - Reply

English Please!

tom mozeleski -

With the sucker, the opening is brutal, everything was cleared at once. Pay attention. (Paul’s comment translated by Google)

Steve Schlotter - Reply

While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.
  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

  • Using a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while continuing to pull up with the suction cup.

  • There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

Be extra careful here. If you don’t take your time, your front panel may jerk back on you, causing you to overextend and break the front camera/mic flex cable; happened to me. Slowly peel back the front panel, opening it no more than 90º.

Thomas - Reply

watch out for the left side of the phone the adhesive bunches up around the inner clips, i didn’t realize it and the upper left of my screen cracked pretty bad. But this guide is awesome follow every direction to the letter

Aaron Fitzpatrick - Reply

Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup. Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
  • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

  • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

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Pull the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge. Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone. Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
  • Pull the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

Be careful If we leave the screen connected and set it to 90 degrees, the speaker / sensor flex may break. With an opening of 60 degrees it is convenient to completely disconnect the screen. The headset's flex is short, and if we put it at 90º, it can break. Guiding me from the images of iFixit, I have broken two cables.

Español:

Cuidado. Si dejamos la pantalla conectada y lo ponemos a 90 grados, el flex del altavoz/sensor puede romperse. Con una abertura de 60 grados es conveniente desconectar enteramente la pantalla. El flex del auricular es corto, y si lo ponemos en 90º , se puede romper. Guiándome de las imágenes de iFixit, se me han roto dos cables.

txaukos - Reply

At 60º the display will block access to all the screws and the phone would be practically unserviceable, so I’m having trouble making sense of this comment. The cables on a factory original display are pretty tough and designed with enough slack that a 90º angle is no problem. Same with any decent aftermarket display.

Jeff Suovanen - Reply

If you look at the enlarged image, you can see how the flex cable from the camera / speaker is in tension. This is my opinion. Sorry for my bad English

Si usted se fija en la imagen ampliada, puede ver cómo el flex cable de la cámara/altavoz está en tensión. Esta es mi opinión.

Perdón por mi mal inglés

txaukos - Reply

Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge, allowing the front panel assembly to swing open like a book. During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.
  • Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge, allowing the front panel assembly to swing open like a book.

  • During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.

I would recommend protecting the screen once the display is free and the suction cup has been removed. This will help avoid any possibility of accidental scratching of the display crystal while the remaining steps are being performed. I used an inexpensive screen protector then removed it after reassembling and testing are complete.

anthonyspampinato - Reply

Remove the following Phillips screws from the battery connector bracket:
  • Remove the following Phillips screws from the battery connector bracket:

    • One 2.3 mm screw

    • One 3.1 mm screw

for the iPhone 6 Plus, all screws were Phillips #000

Michael Adams - Reply

Thank you :)

Daniel Benet - Reply

The screw circled in red won't come out and I'm using a 1.2 screw driver

Sierra - Reply

I had difficulty removing the 3.1mm (iPhone 6 Plus / Phillips #000); had to give it significant downward pressure to get it started.

Allen Matheson - Reply

stripped the 2.3mm screw attempting to remove, had to use excessive force to successfully remove

Matthew Gao - Reply

The Phillips bits provided in the kit would not engage the Phillips heads enough to loosen them. Luckily I had my own small screwdriver set that worked like a charm.

David Davis - Reply

Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.
  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Was not able to remove the battery connector bracket as one of the cable connectors was glued/stuck to the underside. Instead moved the bracket out of the way to disconnect the battery. Care should be taken not to over bend/stretch the ribbon cable.

dwtan - Reply

That may be just the foam connector adhering to the bracket. If you pull up gently and twist slightly it should separate.

Evan Noronha -

It was the foam connector, and it did twist free with a gentle pull

Al Taylor - Reply

Use a clean fingernail or the edge of an opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use a clean fingernail or the edge of an opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Take care to only pry up on the battery connector, and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

you may consider placing a thin non-conductive item between the connector and the socket like a bit of rubber band to prevent any power flowing during this procedure

Michael Adams - Reply

It was too close to other parts to pry up with either end of plastic tool. Finally used 1 tine of tweezer to lift edge. Came free easily

Al Taylor - Reply

J’ai pris une loupe pour bien observer l’endroit où placer l’outil.

Paul Briffaut - Reply

Magnification is key for many tasks and this is certainly one.

Kenneth Gilbert - Reply

Remove the following Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:
  • Remove the following Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 1.5 mm screw

    • One 2.9 mm screw

  • Do not attempt to insert longer screws into the red marked screw holes. Doing so may result in irreparable damage to the logic board.

There's an other panel with one screw in the middle.........

Herbert - Reply

I _love_ the color coding of screws. I know this is a little OCD, but it would be incredibly useful if there were an 8.5 X 11 you could print with indicated homes for where to drop items from each step of disassembly. That is, in the box for step 9, little colored circles for where to place each screw type. As long as you don't jostle the paper, it would make it a lot easier to know exactly where you are in reassembly.

cscarlson47shop - Reply

I have done the exact same thing. Created a sheet where each screw goes.

Chris Murphy -

On my iPhone 6 plus, none of the screws listed in this step are removable with the Phillips 00 screwdriver! I got this far and now am stymied because I can't get these four screws out! Any other screwdrivers I should use?

garth libhart - Reply

You are absolutely right, and you will strip the heads if you try very hard with the PH00. These screws are all PH000.

oscar -

I used the 000 bit from the ifixit 54 piece kit.

hhandh - Reply

Actually you don’t need to do steps 12 to 18 if you attach the display panel to the iPhone box as shown in step 7 and handle your iPhone with care during the replacement. I didn’t disconnect the display panel mainly because the more you work on the interior of your phone the higher is the chance you break something.

Dany Castillo - Reply

That's what I was thinking.

The Wizard - Reply

I skipped this series of steps too. I was very careful when removing the battery and never had an issue with the screen leaning back against the box that this battery shipped in. I even broke half of the third strip of adhesive but used a plastic card to slide under the battery and it slowly lifted out without applying heat.

mark - Reply

I'm having trouble with one screw not wanting to come out. Any suggestions to keep from stripping the head and getting it?

Patric - Reply

which screws are which sizes cause i ordered new ones and cant figure it out

MONsterHEIT - Reply

I also did not see the need to remove the display assembly for this repair. However I did place a can of corn against the vertically positioned display and then secured the display to the can with a rubber band.

whiteshephard - Reply

I recommend removing the display assembly, I didn’t and somehow damaged the home button cable. At least remove the cover to ease the tension on the cables.

Steve Schlotter - Reply

Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.
  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

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In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets on the logic board. While still supporting the front panel, use a fingernail or the edge of an opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and earpiece speaker connector.
  • In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets on the logic board.

  • While still supporting the front panel, use a fingernail or the edge of an opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and earpiece speaker connector.

Why does the screen need to come off?

Sterling Coffey (N0SSC) - Reply

Because the cables are delicate, and following steps are easier if phone halves are not flopping around together, especially for amateurs.

Matthew Goheen - Reply

Disconnect the home button cable connector. Disconnect the home button cable connector.
  • Disconnect the home button cable connector.

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Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step. Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the display data cable connector.
  • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the display data cable connector.

  • When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.

The piece of advice about power cycling the phone by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery proved crucial to the success of my repair (camera and lens replacement). At first when charging the phone after closing it, I got a dark, blank screen with an intermittent buzzing noise. After re-opening the phone and making sure all cables had been properly reconnected, I ignored the advice to power cycle the phone. Still all I got was a dark, blank screen (and intermittent buzzing if charging t). Then I opened it a third time (leaving the screen connected and attached at a 90 degree angle) and I only disconnected and reconnected the battery. Voila! When I closed the phone and powered it up, I got the screen to light up!

Gianni - Reply

how did you disconnect and reconnect the battery?

Teresa Trevino - Reply

If you’ve been following the guide, you already disconnected it in this step. To reconnect it, just line up the connector and press it into place.

Jeff Suovanen -

Finally, disconnect the digitizer cable connector. When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.
  • Finally, disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

  • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

some images and guidance regarding reassembly would be helpful. You don't need to use the spudger to get them back on: fingers are better because there's a really subtle click you feel when you get them seated properly.

cscarlson47shop - Reply

When you're reassembling, a note that this is the step where you should test for proper screen function would be really useful. First time I reassembled, I didn't seat something properly, got all the screws back together and then realized the screen wasn't functioning properly. Had to disassemble back down to step 14 and then re-reassemble.

cscarlson47shop - Reply

I am having this issues right now! I have unplugged and plugged in these cables at least 20 times and each time I get white lines. I finally have it to where there are only 4 white lines and I am almost willing to live with it. Any suggestions?

mattmay002 -

Clean the screen connectors incase they are not making a clean connection

Karen Jones - Reply

I'm having nightmares with the digitizer connector. Simply can't get it to work unless I'm applying some pressure on the connectors. Everything seems almost microscopically clean. Any suggestions friends?

Henry A -

could it be the replacement screen? test with your old screen and see if you have the same problem.

ChiangFeng - Reply

To ++mattmay002++  Did you power cycle the phone? Check out the comments on the previous step for a how to.

Robert Liles - Reply

I had issues with it too. When connecting this cable, make sure to rock finger side to side after connecting. It’s a wide connector so try to listen for 2 clicks on this one connector. That’s how I fixed mine

Albert Einstein - Reply

Re-attaching this cable is the only tricky part to replacing the battery on my 6+. It had a bow on the middle that I had to flatten out before pressing the connector on with finger first on one edge and then on the other. I had white tire tracks on the screen and no touch screen until I connected it correctly. The front has to rest in just the right place on the back while attaching this thing so the cables aren’t strained the front doesn’t fall down. Small fingers would be a plus at this step.

richard - Reply

Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.
  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Never remove the screen without disconnecting the battery. It's possible the back light can be blown and that's a even more difficult repair. Always, ALWAYS, disconnect battery before repairing items. (Unless it's not possible.)

Marvin Ballard - Reply

How do you disconnect the battery from the screen?

Shamil Bhatti -

The Step 11 disconnects the battery :)

jeffxtechs - Reply

I think you mean Step 8 :)

Jeff Suovanen -

How do you disconnect the battery

I tried it once and

Brian - Reply

And what? I tried it once and here’s a million dollars?

Oh I get it… they got him! :(

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlznqpBg...

domarius -

When disassembling the iphone at this point note the cables, and there placement/orientation.

GERARD SZAREK - Reply

Peel back the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom right edge of the battery.
  • Peel back the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom right edge of the battery.

  • Use your fingers or blunt tweezers. Be extra careful when working near the battery; puncturing a lithium-ion battery can release dangerous chemicals and cause a fire.

Ça été pour moi la partie la plus difficile du démontage de l’iPhone, j’ai cassé les 2 bandes parce que je ne me suis pas bien appliqué pour les décoller avec la pince. Pour m’en sortir,. j’ai tordu la batterie avec les outils de manière à faire apparaître les bandes adhésives pour les enlever sans problème.

Paul Briffaut - Reply

Gently pull the battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone. To avoid tearing the adhesive strip, be careful not to pull against the battery or lower components.
  • Gently pull the battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

    • To avoid tearing the adhesive strip, be careful not to pull against the battery or lower components.

  • Continue pulling, allowing the strip to slowly slip out from between the battery and the rear case. When you feel increased resistance from the strip, stop pulling and continue with the next step.

  • If the battery adhesive tabs break during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.

    • If any of the adhesive strips break underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove the remaining strips, and then proceed as instructed below.

I found this much easier than when I did it on a 5S. Not sure if the adhesive strips are different, but I also left the phone on a radiator for a few minutes to help warm the glue. All three then pulled straight out of the phone in one go.

James - Reply

I set my phone on a microfiber cloth on a plate that I had warmed (warm to the touch and that I could hold with my bare hands) in the microwave prior to this step. All 3 strips came off from the bottom and without any trouble.

armitagd - Reply

When you feel increased resistance from the adhesive strip, pull it gently around the lower right corner of the battery.
  • When you feel increased resistance from the adhesive strip, pull it gently around the lower right corner of the battery.

  • Avoid snagging the adhesive strip on the corner of the battery or the strip may tear or break.

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Continue pulling the adhesive tab upward and away from the right edge of the battery, allowing it to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case, until the strip comes free from the iPhone. Don't allow the adhesive strip to snag on the battery connector, or it may tear or break off. Don't allow the adhesive strip to snag on the battery connector, or it may tear or break off.
  • Continue pulling the adhesive tab upward and away from the right edge of the battery, allowing it to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case, until the strip comes free from the iPhone.

  • Don't allow the adhesive strip to snag on the battery connector, or it may tear or break off.

I was able to pull the strip all the way out from the bottom instead of working my way to the right edge. I never felt an increase in the resistance on the strip that would lead me to believe I needed to work towards the right edge.

whiteshephard - Reply

Peel back the second battery adhesive tab from the bottom left edge of the battery. Again, gently pull the battery adhesive tab upward and away from the battery, allowing the adhesive strip to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case.
  • Peel back the second battery adhesive tab from the bottom left edge of the battery.

  • Again, gently pull the battery adhesive tab upward and away from the battery, allowing the adhesive strip to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case.

  • Continue pulling the adhesive tab until you feel increased resistance, and then stop.

This strip broke almost immediately with the first pull. I changed the battery on two iPhone 6 Plus’s. Impossible for me to retrieve broken ends. I moved on to the middle strip with no issue. I then used the blue opening tool to pry the battery up along the lower right edge of the battery (BE CAREFUL!). Once the battery is leveraged up enough to put the tip of the tweezers on the broken strip, grab a piece of the strip and pull it to a point where the removal process can continue as prescribed.

whiteshephard - Reply

When you feel increased resistance from the adhesive strip, pull it gently around the lower left corner of the battery.
  • When you feel increased resistance from the adhesive strip, pull it gently around the lower left corner of the battery.

  • Don't allow the adhesive strip to snag on the corner of the battery, or it may tear or break off.

  • Continue pulling the adhesive tab upward and away from the left edge of the battery, allowing it to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case, until the strip comes free from the iPhone.

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Peel back the final battery adhesive tab from the bottom edge of the battery. Gently pull the battery adhesive tab upward and away from the battery, allowing the adhesive strip to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case. Continue pulling until the final strip comes free from the iPhone.
  • Peel back the final battery adhesive tab from the bottom edge of the battery.

  • Gently pull the battery adhesive tab upward and away from the battery, allowing the adhesive strip to slowly slide out from between the battery and the rear case.

  • Continue pulling until the final strip comes free from the iPhone.

    • If you removed all three adhesive strips successfully, skip over the next two steps.

    • If any of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, continue with the next step below.

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If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.
  • If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.

Add Comment

Flip the iPhone back over and insert a plastic card between the left side of the battery and the rear case.
  • Flip the iPhone back over and insert a plastic card between the left side of the battery and the rear case.

    • Don't pry under the topmost section of the battery, near the volume up button and mute switch, or you may damage the audio controls cable, which is adhered to the rear case just beneath the battery.

    • Do not pry against the logic board, or you may permanently damage your iPhone.

  • Be careful to keep the card as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals.

  • Press the card in farther to break up the adhesive behind the battery.

  • Alternatively, a piece of dental floss may be used to separate the battery from the rear case. A stronger alternative to dental floss is an unwound guitar string, such as a 0.009 E string from a 12-string set.

  • Thread the floss or string underneath one end of the battery and pull side to side in a sawing motion to separate the adhesive.

Hat leider alles nicht geklappt! Musste mit einer Karte und einer Seite sehr lange fummeln und da sich die Folie vom Akku zu sehr mit dem gehäuse verbunden hat. Dadurch hat sie sich gelöst und durch das erwärmen leider auch nicht wirklich besser.

Jess Sass - Reply

This step was very difficult as the adhesive strips snapped on me and I had to use a card to make the strips come out by siding the plastic card on the strips as thought I was trying to cut a very thin slice of cheese. (NOTE: DO NOT USE ANYTHING METAL when attempting this method) I actually tried using a metal spudger while trying to remove the adhesive strips and punctured the old battery slightly enough to cause smoke.

Bryan - Reply

Remove the battery from the iPhone.
  • Remove the battery from the iPhone.

  • If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove the sleeve before installation by pulling it away from the the ribbon cable.

  • When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips.

  • Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

can we put the iphone 6 plus battery into the iPhone 6s Plus?

Ishtiaque Haider - Reply

Once again, ifixit comes through! I bought the battery and the repair kit and the new battery installed and charging. My only hitch was that the three adhesive strips all broke when I pulled on them. I had to heat the bottom of the phone to separate the battery. It was a small moment of panic, but it just required a bit more patience. Thanks for all you do!

jamesg - Reply

Any chance this guide can be restored: - “When installing the battery, refer to this guideto replace your battery's adhesive strips.” as it comes up a 404 page not found

philbjh - Reply

Try this link. Not sure what happened there… Looks like a bug! We’ll get it sorted out.

Jeff Suovanen -

Awesome procedure! Thanks. iPhone 6plus working great. Make sure you have quality tools. Thanks again.

Leo Lambert - Reply

The replacement battery didn’t come with new adhesive strips. Don’t know why.

Jon Kamke - Reply

Remove the following screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket to the rear case:
  • Remove the following screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket to the rear case:

    • One 1.7 mm Phillips #00 screw

    • One 2.3 mm Phillips #00 screw

need to remove the screws third one that's underneath the 2.3

sirgednosiam - Reply

Lift and remove the rear-facing camera bracket out of the iPhone.
  • Lift and remove the rear-facing camera bracket out of the iPhone.

Add Comment

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector from its socket on the logic board.

Add Comment

Carefully lift and remove the rear-facing camera out of the iPhone.
  • Carefully lift and remove the rear-facing camera out of the iPhone.

Add Comment

Remove the following screws securing the antenna bracket to the rear case:
  • Remove the following screws securing the antenna bracket to the rear case:

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips #00 screw

    • One 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screw

Add Comment

Grasp the antenna bracket with a pair of tweezers and lift it off the iPhone.
  • Grasp the antenna bracket with a pair of tweezers and lift it off the iPhone.

Add Comment

Carefully pry the antenna connector up off the logic board with a plastic opening tool.
  • Carefully pry the antenna connector up off the logic board with a plastic opening tool.

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Grasp the antenna connector with a pair of tweezers and gently lift it from its retaining clip on the logic board. Grasp the antenna connector with a pair of tweezers and gently lift it from its retaining clip on the logic board.
  • Grasp the antenna connector with a pair of tweezers and gently lift it from its retaining clip on the logic board.

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The two connectors may be coupled by a single adhesive tab. If this is the case, then they may detach as a pair. Disconnect the power button cable and audio control cable connectors from their respective sockets on the logic board.
  • The two connectors may be coupled by a single adhesive tab. If this is the case, then they may detach as a pair.

  • Disconnect the power button cable and audio control cable connectors from their respective sockets on the logic board.

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Remove the following screws securing the top cellular antenna to the rear case:
  • Remove the following screws securing the top cellular antenna to the rear case:

    • One 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screw

    • Two 1.6 mm Phillips #00 screws

Add Comment

Use a pair of tweezers to grasp and remove the top cellular antenna out of the iPhone. During reassembly, make sure to place the small washer in the top left corner of the antenna assembly.
  • Use a pair of tweezers to grasp and remove the top cellular antenna out of the iPhone.

  • During reassembly, make sure to place the small washer in the top left corner of the antenna assembly.

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Pry the vibrator connector cable up from its socket on the logic board with the flat end of a spudger.
  • Pry the vibrator connector cable up from its socket on the logic board with the flat end of a spudger.

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Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the interconnect antenna cable from its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the interconnect antenna cable from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the interconnect antenna cable from its socket on the logic board.

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Grasp the interconnect antenna cable with a pair of tweezers and carefully deroute it from its channel on the speaker assembly. Grasp the interconnect antenna cable with a pair of tweezers and carefully deroute it from its channel on the speaker assembly.
  • Grasp the interconnect antenna cable with a pair of tweezers and carefully deroute it from its channel on the speaker assembly.

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Remove the two 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the vibrator to the rear case.
  • Remove the two 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the vibrator to the rear case.

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Lift and remove the vibrator out of the iPhone.
  • Lift and remove the vibrator out of the iPhone.

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Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray. Press to eject the tray.
  • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

  • Press to eject the tray.

  • This may require a significant amount of force.

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Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.
  • Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.

  • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

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Remove the single 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the plastic clip to the logic board.
  • Remove the single 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the plastic clip to the logic board.

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Remove the single 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screw recessed against the top of the rear case.
  • Remove the single 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screw recessed against the top of the rear case.

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Use a pair of tweezers to firmly grasp the plastic clip and remove it from the iPhone.
  • Use a pair of tweezers to firmly grasp the plastic clip and remove it from the iPhone.

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Remove the single 1.6 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the antenna clip to the rear case.
  • Remove the single 1.6 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the antenna clip to the rear case.

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Carefully grasp the antenna clip with a pair of tweezers and remove it from the iPhone.
  • Carefully grasp the antenna clip with a pair of tweezers and remove it from the iPhone.

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Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear case:
  • Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear case:

    • Two 2.4 mm standoff screws

      • Standoff screws are best removed using an iPhone Standoff Screwdriver Bit and driver handle.

      • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    • One 2.1 mm Phillips #00 screw

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Carefully raise—but do not remove—the logic board, lifting it from the bottom edge nearest the Lightning connector.
  • Carefully raise—but do not remove—the logic board, lifting it from the bottom edge nearest the Lightning connector.

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Do not remove the logic board. At this point it is still tethered to the rear case via an antenna connector.
  • Do not remove the logic board. At this point it is still tethered to the rear case via an antenna connector.

  • Continue carefully lifting the bottom side of the logic board until it is vertical.

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Gently lay the logic board upside-down, with the top portion resting against the rear case of the iPhone. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the antenna connector from its socket on the back of the logic board.
  • Gently lay the logic board upside-down, with the top portion resting against the rear case of the iPhone.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the antenna connector from its socket on the back of the logic board.

An extra step needs to be added. the 1.3 millimeter Phillips head #00 screw retaining the antenna to the frame needs to be removed and then the antenna removed.

Josh Ginsberg - Reply

Lift and remove the logic board out of the iPhone.
  • Lift and remove the logic board out of the iPhone.

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Use a pair of tweezers to peel the single adhesive tab that resides on top of both the power button and audio control/rocker switch cable connectors. Use a pair of tweezers to peel the single adhesive tab that resides on top of both the power button and audio control/rocker switch cable connectors.
  • Use a pair of tweezers to peel the single adhesive tab that resides on top of both the power button and audio control/rocker switch cable connectors.

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Remove the single 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the power button cable bracket to the rear case.
  • Remove the single 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the power button cable bracket to the rear case.

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Carefully grasp the bracket with a pair of tweezers and remove it from the iPhone.
  • Carefully grasp the bracket with a pair of tweezers and remove it from the iPhone.

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Remove the following screws securing the power button cable bracket to the inner edge of the rear case:
  • Remove the following screws securing the power button cable bracket to the inner edge of the rear case:

    • One 2.1 mm Phillips #00 screw

    • One 1.7 mm Phillips #00 screw

Add Comment

Grasp the power button cable bracket with a pair of tweezers and remove it from the iPhone.
  • Grasp the power button cable bracket with a pair of tweezers and remove it from the iPhone.

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Remove the single 2.1 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the power button switch to the rear case.
  • Remove the single 2.1 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the power button switch to the rear case.

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Pull the power button switch out of its recess on the rear case with a pair of tweezers, and begin carefully peeling the power button cable from the rear case.
  • Pull the power button switch out of its recess on the rear case with a pair of tweezers, and begin carefully peeling the power button cable from the rear case.

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Continue gently peeling the power button cable off the rear case and remove it from the iPhone. Continue gently peeling the power button cable off the rear case and remove it from the iPhone. Continue gently peeling the power button cable off the rear case and remove it from the iPhone.
  • Continue gently peeling the power button cable off the rear case and remove it from the iPhone.

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Remove the following screws securing the audio controls and rocker switch to the rear case:
  • Remove the following screws securing the audio controls and rocker switch to the rear case:

    • Two 2.0 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • One 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screw

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Grasp the audio control and rocker switch cable with a pair of tweezers. Slowly peel the audio control and rocker switch cable up off the rear case. Peel with care. The cable is secured to the rear case with mild adhesive.
  • Grasp the audio control and rocker switch cable with a pair of tweezers.

  • Slowly peel the audio control and rocker switch cable up off the rear case.

  • Peel with care. The cable is secured to the rear case with mild adhesive.

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Use the tip of a spudger to push the audio control and rocker switch buttons out of their recess on the rear case. Use the tip of a spudger to push the audio control and rocker switch buttons out of their recess on the rear case.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to push the audio control and rocker switch buttons out of their recess on the rear case.

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Gently grasp both top and bottom audio control buttons with a pair of tweezers and remove them from the iPhone. Gently grasp both top and bottom audio control buttons with a pair of tweezers and remove them from the iPhone.
  • Gently grasp both top and bottom audio control buttons with a pair of tweezers and remove them from the iPhone.

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Grasp the antenna connector with a pair of tweezers and carefully begin de-routing it from its channel on the speaker. Grasp the antenna connector with a pair of tweezers and carefully begin de-routing it from its channel on the speaker.
  • Grasp the antenna connector with a pair of tweezers and carefully begin de-routing it from its channel on the speaker.

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To fully de-route the antenna connector, you may need to gently pull back the metal clip securing it to the speaker assembly.
  • To fully de-route the antenna connector, you may need to gently pull back the metal clip securing it to the speaker assembly.

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Remove the following screws securing the speaker to the rear case:
  • Remove the following screws securing the speaker to the rear case:

    • One 2.3 mm Phillips #00 screw

    • One 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screw

Add Comment

Lift and remove the speaker out of the iPhone.
  • Lift and remove the speaker out of the iPhone.

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Remove the two 3.3 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the metal bracket to the Lightning connector assembly.
  • Remove the two 3.3 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the metal bracket to the Lightning connector assembly.

Add Comment

Use a pair of tweezers to lift and remove the metal bracket out of the iPhone.
  • Use a pair of tweezers to lift and remove the metal bracket out of the iPhone.

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Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the antenna connector cable up off its socket on the Lightning connector assembly.
  • Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the antenna connector cable up off its socket on the Lightning connector assembly.

Add Comment

Lift and remove the antenna connector out of the iPhone.
  • Lift and remove the antenna connector out of the iPhone.

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Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the Lightning connector assembly to the rear case:
  • Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the Lightning connector assembly to the rear case:

    • Two 3.2 mm screws

    • One 3.8 mm screw

    • Two 1.7 mm screws

    • Two 1.5 mm screws

    • Two 1.4 mm screws

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Use a pair of tweezers to grasp the plastic clip that is situated to the right of the headphone jack and remove it from the iPhone.
  • Use a pair of tweezers to grasp the plastic clip that is situated to the right of the headphone jack and remove it from the iPhone.

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The next step requires peeling up the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable that is affixed to the inside of the rear case with mild adhesive. We highly recommend using an iOpener on the lower backside of the rear case to soften the adhesive.
  • The next step requires peeling up the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable that is affixed to the inside of the rear case with mild adhesive. We highly recommend using an iOpener on the lower backside of the rear case to soften the adhesive.

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Use an opening pick to slowly separate the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable from the rear case. Carefully work the pick down the right side of the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable, making sure to stop right as you hit the bottom. Carefully work the pick down the right side of the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable, making sure to stop right as you hit the bottom.
  • Use an opening pick to slowly separate the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable from the rear case.

  • Carefully work the pick down the right side of the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable, making sure to stop right as you hit the bottom.

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Insert the pick underneath the right bottom corner of the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable.
  • Insert the pick underneath the right bottom corner of the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable.

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Run the opening pick across the top of Lightning connector and headphone jack cable to loosen the adhesive securing it to the rear case. Run the opening pick across the top of Lightning connector and headphone jack cable to loosen the adhesive securing it to the rear case.
  • Run the opening pick across the top of Lightning connector and headphone jack cable to loosen the adhesive securing it to the rear case.

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Lift and remove the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable assembly out of the iPhone.
  • Lift and remove the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable assembly out of the iPhone.

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Rear case remains.
  • Rear case remains.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

45 other people completed this guide.

Jeff Suovanen

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4 Comments

what are the 5 metal "spacers" attached to the housing? they are simplistic metal spacing bars with a tiny rubber block. all held to the left side and right side walls with 2 screws per spacer. The instructions totally skipped this step about removing them. all housings i see being sold do not include them, so wouldnt you want to move them over too?

quysu714 - Reply

they probably don't add it because its pretty self explanatory.

Chris Gourlay -

step 84, When you have finished tearing it all down, there are a couple of things you missed, the rubber piece that is connected to the case near the speaker and the charging port housing when you remove the board at the bottom.

jamielee2k - Reply

In addition to the metal "spacers," the screen for the speaker and the charging port housing, don't forget to transfer a few other things that weren't mentioned in the guide to your new rear case: the power button, the little metal switch for the sim tray; there's a tiny black speaker screen near the headphone jack that must be transferred over (might want to clean it off if it has collected dust); in the top left corner there are two more screws to loosen: one is for a tiny metal spacer piece and the other for the antennae connector cable; there is also a little metal square that cushions the antenna connector's socket; a small strip where the earpiece speaker would be that looks like a black rolled piece of tape; and finally, the foam cushion for the rear camera and the little black screen next to it. But yea... pretty self explanatory.

ikennaugwuh - Reply

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