Introduction

Use this guide to replace the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable.

Video Overview

Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm P2 Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

Pentalobe P2

Enea Del Lama - Reply

I prefer to remove the SIM card as the very first step since it's safer to do so while the phone is fully assembled.

estebanfallasf - Reply

  • The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 6 Plus that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to Step 4.

  • If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone 6 Plus.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction cup jaws.

  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups.

    • Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, near the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

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Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case. The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any of the display cables.
  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any of the display cables.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 7.

It's very difficult if you want to remove a cracked screen. The suction cup and Islack won't work. Does anybody know a better way?

Herbert - Reply

I don't recommend replacing the home button. HOWEVER, I would purchase an iSesamo tool (I paid $8 for a 3 pack on FleaBay) and jam that in between the frame and bezel. Most effective way to open a iPhone. Once you get used to it an iSesamo becomes an extension of your arm.

iRevive Mobile -

I use Scotch Tape, shipping tape. Put a couple of layers over the crack screen. That seals it so you can use the suction cup to remove the front of phone.

Michael Wallace -

I used the plastic pry took and the spudger to open it up. I place the pry tool dead center below the home button and was able to put some pressure around the seam and the top popped up enough for me to get the spudger in there to hold it open and then work my way around with the plastic pry tool.

johnoconna -

Apply clear packaging tape to screen. Then suction cup to that.

Tracey -

Use clear nontextured tape place that over the phone screen. Refer to any guide that addresses replacing a shattered screen

Abigail Cherry - Reply

I know it's tough with cracked glass. You just need enough to get in a plstic pry tool or guitar pick. Then you can pry it apart. Just be patient, I cannot stress that enough; the electronics are very, very small and fragile.

Mike - Reply

If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:
  • If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

    • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the cup is pressed securely onto the screen to get a tight seal.

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While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.
  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

  • Using a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while continuing to pull up with the suction cup.

  • There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

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Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup. Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
  • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

  • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

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Pull the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge. Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone. Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
  • Pull the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

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Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge, allowing the front panel assembly to swing open like a book. During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.
  • Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge, allowing the front panel assembly to swing open like a book.

  • During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.

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Remove the following Phillips screws from the battery connector bracket:
  • Remove the following Phillips screws from the battery connector bracket:

    • One 2.3 mm screw

    • One 3.1 mm screw

for the iPhone 6 Plus, all screws were Phillips #000

Michael Adams - Reply

Thank you :)

Daniel Benet - Reply

The screw circled in red won't come out and I'm using a 1.2 screw driver

Sierra - Reply

Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.
  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Was not able to remove the battery connector bracket as one of the cable connectors was glued/stuck to the underside. Instead moved the bracket out of the way to disconnect the battery. Care should be taken not to over bend/stretch the ribbon cable.

dwtan - Reply

That may be just the foam connector adhering to the bracket. If you pull up gently and twist slightly it should separate.

Evan Noronha -

It was the foam connector, and it did twist free with a gentle pull

Al Taylor - Reply

Gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Take care to only pry up on the battery connector, and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

you may consider placing a thin non-conductive item between the connector and the socket like a bit of rubber band to prevent any power flowing during this procedure

Michael Adams - Reply

It was too close to other parts to pry up with either end of plastic tool. Finally used 1 tine of tweezer to lift edge. Came free easily

Al Taylor - Reply

While holding the front panel open at about a 90º angle, remove the following Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:
  • While holding the front panel open at about a 90º angle, remove the following Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 1.5 mm screw

    • One 2.9 mm screw

There's an other panel with one screw in the middle.........

Herbert - Reply

I _love_ the color coding of screws. I know this is a little OCD, but it would be incredibly useful if there were an 8.5 X 11 you could print with indicated homes for where to drop items from each step of disassembly. That is, in the box for step 9, little colored circles for where to place each screw type. As long as you don't jostle the paper, it would make it a lot easier to know exactly where you are in reassembly.

cscarlson47shop - Reply

On my iPhone 6 plus, none of the screws listed in this step are removable with the Phillips 00 screwdriver! I got this far and now am stymied because I can't get these four screws out! Any other screwdrivers I should use?

garth libhart - Reply

You are absolutely right, and you will strip the heads if you try very hard with the PH00. These screws are all PH000.

oscar -

I used the 000 bit from the ifixit 54 piece kit.

hhandh - Reply

Actually you don’t need to do steps 12 to 18 if you attach the display panel to the iPhone box as shown in step 7 and handle your iPhone with care during the replacement. I didn’t disconnect the display panel mainly because the more you work on the interior of your phone the higher is the chance you break something.

Dany Castillo - Reply

That's what I was thinking.

The Wizard - Reply

I skipped this series of steps too. I was very careful when removing the battery and never had an issue with the screen leaning back against the box that this battery shipped in. I even broke half of the third strip of adhesive but used a plastic card to slide under the battery and it slowly lifted out without applying heat.

mark - Reply

I'm having trouble with one screw not wanting to come out. Any suggestions to keep from stripping the head and getting it?

Patric - Reply

Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.
  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

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In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets on the logic board. While still supporting the front panel, use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and earpiece speaker cable connector.
  • In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets on the logic board.

  • While still supporting the front panel, use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and earpiece speaker cable connector.

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Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the home button cable connector. Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the home button cable connector.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the home button cable connector.

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Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the display data cable connector. When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the display data cable connector.

  • When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.

The piece of advice about power cycling the phone by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery proved crucial to the success of my repair (camera and lens replacement). At first when charging the phone after closing it, I got a dark, blank screen with an intermittent buzzing noise. After re-opening the phone and making sure all cables had been properly reconnected, I ignored the advice to power cycle the phone. Still all I got was a dark, blank screen (and intermittent buzzing if charging t). Then I opened it a third time (leaving the screen connected and attached at a 90 degree angle) and I only disconnected and reconnected the battery. Voila! When I closed the phone and powered it up, I got the screen to light up!

Gianni - Reply

Finally, use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable connector. When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.
  • Finally, use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

  • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

some images and guidance regarding reassembly would be helpful. You don't need to use the spudger to get them back on: fingers are better because there's a really subtle click you feel when you get them seated properly.

cscarlson47shop - Reply

When you're reassembling, a note that this is the step where you should test for proper screen function would be really useful. First time I reassembled, I didn't seat something properly, got all the screws back together and then realized the screen wasn't functioning properly. Had to disassemble back down to step 14 and then re-reassemble.

cscarlson47shop - Reply

I am having this issues right now! I have unplugged and plugged in these cables at least 20 times and each time I get white lines. I finally have it to where there are only 4 white lines and I am almost willing to live with it. Any suggestions?

mattmay002 -

Clean the screen connectors incase they are not making a clean connection

Karen Jones - Reply

I'm having nightmares with the digitizer connector. Simply can't get it to work unless I'm applying some pressure on the connectors. Everything seems almost microscopically clean. Any suggestions friends?

Henry A -

could it be the replacement screen? test with your old screen and see if you have the same problem.

ChiangFeng - Reply

Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.
  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Never remove the screen without disconnecting the battery. It's possible the back light can be blown and that's a even more difficult repair. Always, ALWAYS, disconnect battery before repairing items. (Unless it's not possible.)

Marvin Ballard - Reply

How do you disconnect the battery from the screen?

Shamil Bhatti -

The Step 11 disconnects the battery :)

jeffxtechs - Reply

I think you mean Step 8 :)

Jeff Suovanen -

How do you disconnect the battery from the phone

Brian - Reply

How do you disconnect the battery

I tried it once and

Brian - Reply

Pry the vibrator connector cable up from its socket on the logic board with the flat end of a spudger. Pry the vibrator connector cable up from its socket on the logic board with the flat end of a spudger.
  • Pry the vibrator connector cable up from its socket on the logic board with the flat end of a spudger.

Both on my original and on my replacement, there was adhesive on the underside of this connector and it blended in with the color of the speaker (instead of being gray, as in the photo), so that it looked like it was attached to the speaker itself. In reality, it is part of the lightning connector and headphone jack assembly that is being replaced and that is stuck to the case (cf. steps 34–38). If yours is similar, go ahead and peel it off of the top of the speaker now, and the speaker will come right out when you get to that step.

grabauski - Reply

Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the interconnect antenna cable from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the interconnect antenna cable from its socket on the logic board.

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Grasp the interconnect antenna cable with a pair of tweezers and carefully de-route it from its channel on the vibrator assembly. Grasp the interconnect antenna cable with a pair of tweezers and carefully de-route it from its channel on the vibrator assembly.
  • Grasp the interconnect antenna cable with a pair of tweezers and carefully de-route it from its channel on the vibrator assembly.

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Remove the two 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the vibrator to the rear case.
  • Remove the two 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the vibrator to the rear case.

These two screws are stuck on my phone. Does anyone have any suggestions for loosening them. The heads are becoming stripped the more i try to take them out. I appreciate any suggestions

tony aviles - Reply

if you have some spare crummy screwdrivers - like the kind that come with the replacement screens - you can try supergluing it. You just have to be super careful and not get glue anywhere else. make sure you have the screwdriver set in the screw as snugly as possible and let it sit a day or two before you gently try to unscrew it. You can google that method.

Sarah Ybarra - Reply

There's a few common methods for this issue.First let me say that not all the screw heads are the EXACT SAME SIZE.You strip the screws when you use a driver that is too small so let's get that out of the way first so that you don't have this problem in the future.

Now,Method one: use a rubberband

Method two: A brass Penelope or the higher end kind,Not the little black ones that come in common kits but the ones that come with slightly better kits for example they are usually orange.You must first try constant firm very firm that is,pressure when extracting.You want to basically gouge a pentelope head into the screw,if head on fails then go to an angle after that.Be extremely careful with this method as it's better than the rubberband and I find it's always worked for me,You gotta remain careful when doing this or you might end up slipping and causing catastrophic damage to the board.

GoodLuck

Vegeta Barrett - Reply

Remove the vibrator from the iPhone.
  • Remove the vibrator from the iPhone.

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Grasp the antenna connector with a pair of tweezers and carefully begin de-routing it from its channel on the speaker. Grasp the antenna connector with a pair of tweezers and carefully begin de-routing it from its channel on the speaker.
  • Grasp the antenna connector with a pair of tweezers and carefully begin de-routing it from its channel on the speaker.

I suggest adding in an advisory to "carefully apply pressure against the metal channel that is holding down the antenna cable", because if you just de-rout only handing the cable, the cable snags against the metal channel and in my case has split the cable covering open by half an inch on my iPhone 6 Plus.

***edit*** Suggest adding Step 25 into Step 24

Jamie LB - Reply

To fully de-route the antenna connector, you may need to gently pull back the metal clip securing it to the speaker assembly.
  • To fully de-route the antenna connector, you may need to gently pull back the metal clip securing it to the speaker assembly.

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Remove the following screws securing the speaker to the rear case:
  • Remove the following screws securing the speaker to the rear case:

    • One 2.3 mm Phillips #00 screw

    • One 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screw

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Lift and remove the speaker out of the iPhone.
  • Lift and remove the speaker out of the iPhone.

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Remove the two 3.3 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the metal bracket to the Lightning connector assembly.
  • Remove the two 3.3 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the metal bracket to the Lightning connector assembly.

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Use a pair of tweezers to lift and remove the metal bracket out of the iPhone.
  • Use a pair of tweezers to lift and remove the metal bracket out of the iPhone.

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Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the antenna connector cable up off its socket on the Lightning connector assembly.
  • Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the antenna connector cable up off its socket on the Lightning connector assembly.

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Lift and remove the antenna connector out of the iPhone.
  • Lift and remove the antenna connector out of the iPhone.

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Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the Lightning connector assembly to the rear case:
  • Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the Lightning connector assembly to the rear case:

    • Two 3.2 mm screws

    • One 3.8 mm screw

    • Two 1.7 mm screws

    • Two 1.5 mm screws

    • Two 1.4 mm screws

There were 3x1.4 and a single 1.5 that was in the top right, which makes sense in regards to the frame location.

Crav - Reply

Use a pair of tweezers to grasp the plastic clip that is situated to the right of the headphone jack and remove it from the iPhone.
  • Use a pair of tweezers to grasp the plastic clip that is situated to the right of the headphone jack and remove it from the iPhone.

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The next step requires peeling the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable that is affixed to the inside of the rear case with mild adhesive. We highly recommend using an iOpener to heat the lower backside of the rear case.
  • The next step requires peeling the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable that is affixed to the inside of the rear case with mild adhesive. We highly recommend using an iOpener to heat the lower backside of the rear case.

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Use an opening pick to slowly separate the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable from the rear case. Carefully work the pick down the right side of the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable, making sure to stop right as you hit the bottom. Carefully work the pick down the right side of the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable, making sure to stop right as you hit the bottom.
  • Use an opening pick to slowly separate the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable from the rear case.

  • Carefully work the pick down the right side of the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable, making sure to stop right as you hit the bottom.

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Insert the pick underneath the right bottom corner of the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable.
  • Insert the pick underneath the right bottom corner of the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable.

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Run the opening pick across the top of Lightning connector and headphone jack cable to loosen the adhesive securing it to the rear case. Run the opening pick across the top of Lightning connector and headphone jack cable to loosen the adhesive securing it to the rear case.
  • Run the opening pick across the top of Lightning connector and headphone jack cable to loosen the adhesive securing it to the rear case.

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Lift and remove the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable out of the iPhone.
  • Lift and remove the Lightning connector and headphone jack cable out of the iPhone.

When reassembling, the new part had a bunch of little blue tabs where I had to reveal the adhesive. It would be worth an explicit step description explaining which blue tabs to remove and which to leave, as well as which end to start with (seat the headphone jack first, then line up the screw holes across the bottom edge, etc.) I panicked when I seated the jack and it looked like the screw holes didn't line up, before I realized I had to bend the connector to the jack to make the rest of it fit properly.

cscarlson47shop - Reply

On that last picture, we can see some kind of a black spacer, keeping the hole of the mic away from the body of the phone... When performing the lightning port replacement, I accidently threw that part away and now the bottom mic doesn't sit where it should so people I call can barely hear me. Anyone could point out where I can find that part? Been searching all around the web without any result! Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

Tommy Beaulieu - Reply

My new assembly was missing a small rubber gasket on the headphone jack and a small plastic spacer glued to the microphone. These had to be salvaged from the old assembly. Both are easy to loose once removed from the old assembly! Also all of the tabs (blue and yellow) have to be removed to activate the adhesive they are protecting. This should be noted in the instruction steps.

Bob Haworth - Reply

I completely agree with Tommy and Bob as I have encountered the same issue. The little rubber piece became lost when doing the replacement. I managed to find the same little piece at an iPhone repair store where they luckily had some of extra of these and they just gave me one. Still nowhere on the internet, I can seem to find a proper transfer video of this little rubber part. It would be very helpful to add the steps in the replacement.

Varol Keskin - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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18 Comments

I did this tonight, took about 45 min. I used my iFixit tool kit to all the work.

When putting it back together I had an issue with my screen going all "white lines", turns out it was just a loose connection on the digitizer cable, I lifted it and placed it again and all is good with the world.

I had to replace the assembly because I was getting feedback when making calls with headphones and no voice at all with headphones if the phone was plugged into power. Now I can do both.

Thanks so much iFixit for making this possible.

rianrachel - Reply

After fixing my headset jack successfully, people could not hear me clearly on the mic. I took it apart again today. The clip that holds the mic in place, next to the jack, had been put down too tight to the mic, which kept it from moving enough to pick sound up clearly -- everything was muddied. I only had to pull the case open a little, unscrew the mic assembly to loosen it, wiggle it back a bit, move the mic a little to align it better with the hole, and then tighten it back down. It works beautifully now and everyone says I sound better than ever. A really easy fix, but it could have been avoided if there were instructions on putting everything back together or at least tips for little things like this.

maztec - Reply

My iphone stuck into headphone,what can i do to fix it?please help me as soon as possible

Tannaz pourian - Reply

I recently replaced the headphone jack but when I tried it out after successfully replacing it, the headphones still gave a crackling sound. Less than before but still very noticeable. Anyone have any suggestions to fix this issue?

collinwanat - Reply

Can I use this guide to replace the lightning port in an iPhone 6S?

crssnt - Reply

On that last picture, we can see some kind of a black spacer, keeping the hole of the mic away from the body of the phone... When performing the lightning port replacement, I accidently threw that part away and now the bottom mic doesn't sit where it should so people I call can barely hear me. Anyone could point out where I can find that part? Been searching all around the web without any result! Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

Tommy Beaulieu - Reply

Try here http://www.3cparts.com/?goods=detail&id=... I don't know if it comes with the piece you need or not but it is worth a shot.

BJ Bures -

Merci pour le tuto ! J'ai pris le temps car c'était la première fois que j'ouvrais un téléphone de ma vie mais j'y suis arrivé ! Suivez pas à pas le tutoriel et la video qui vas avec et vous réussirez à coup sur ! Merci Ifixit pour vos conseils.

hoennremi - Reply

This guide saved me hundreds of dollars. thank you for a great job putting this together!! the i fixit tools were cheap and worth every penny. my iPhone 6 Plus now can be seen by the mac and syncs music like a champ. great sound quality on speaker mode and the headphones work great. charges like brand new.

Michael Adams - Reply

just did it now it take around 25 minutes thanks so helpful page

mohamed.rashad1989 - Reply

amazing thanks so much

mohamed.rashad1989 - Reply

Just performed the repair but have 2 tiny rubber, what look like they may be vibration absorbers left. Where do they go?

Jack - Reply

Thank you iFixit for the instructions and parts. I did this within less than an hour, and all due to the other times that I repaired older models throughout the years. iFixit has been invaluable to me in resurrection of my broken phone(s). Having pulled apart an iPhone 4 a few times, and an iPhone 5, this seemed much easier in comparison. But again, this is really all due to iFixit being around this long and providing top notch instructions, even for the novice. Thank you so much!

nuklearfusion - Reply

After doing this . The phone is all black . Won't turn on at all . I don't know what is happening but the only thing that the computer is the recovery mode

osh20x - Reply

Fixed!!!

Ok, before you rush to the apple store or if brave enough, decide to do this yourself.

There are 3 small sprint loaded contacts inside the jacks, mine had some black marks on them, and there was no sound in the headphone.

Take a small piece of cotton and a straight thin tweezer or a toothpick, wet it lightly with mineral spirit, turpentine or alcohol. Stick it inside the jack and spin it/clean the contacts. Reset the phone and now it's like brand new.

They probably do the same thing at your local shop and charge you $100 bucks... The dirty best kept secret.

If the cotton ball get stock inside, don't panic. Stick the cotton in the middle and spin whatever you are using couple of rounds, the cotton will catch the tweezer, toothpick. It will also help if you slide the headphone jack along those contacts couple of times, sometime one of those spring get "stuck". Good luck!!

ck ng - Reply

If My iPhone 6 Plus syncing pins are damaged would this be the best thing for me to do by changing the lighting connector

Tevon - Reply

So Basically This is identical to an iphone 6, infact identical, except a few steps are in a different order, although those steps that are different can be performed in any order...

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DVS - Reply

I've done this before and it's a easy 45 minute fix. Just a FYI some of the antennas are stuck to the guide around the speaker so don't pull very hard with your tweezers.

JR Gonzales - Reply

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