Use this guide to replace the Lightning connector assembly, which also includes the headphone jack and microphone.

You can also use this guide for reference when replacing the following parts:

Image 1/1: Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

When reconnecting be VERY careful not to over tighten. The connectors on the screen that these 3.6mm Pentalobe screws lock with are notorious for breaking off

Blair Tryba - Reply

what do i do if ive managed to tighten them too hard and now they wont come off?

kristian686 -

Before opening the phone, I gently warmed it using a buckwheat heating pad. This made removal of the adhesive strips (steps 20 to 24) easy.

Howard Bales - Reply

Exactly what I did as well, the gently warming made the adhesive removal work like a charm. The heat as well help to lift the screen easily, no need for the prying tools for me to open te phone.

For the adhesive removal just pull it slowly to the bottom of the phone and keep in under tension.

On reassembly, turn on the phone after getting all connectors back in place to verify all is working fine before putting all screws back in their spot.

Maarten Vergauwen -

I put mine back together but mine looks very different than this one. Why is it that when I make a call I cannot hear through the ear piece and have to put it on speaker. Also my screen doesn't go black when my face touches it

Bailey Wilson - Reply

Hey Bailey, which repair were you attempting? Is it possible you have a 6s, or maybe a 6 Plus? You may have better luck with faster troubleshooting if you post in our Answer Forum!

Sam Lionheart -

See its a long time ago you had this issue. You can try to remove the cable from front camera/sensor/earpiece from the motherboard port and gently push it back on. All the problems you relate to is thru the same cable. If this dont solve your problem, check if the earpiece is correctly placed onto the polarity poles, and that the proximity sensor is lying right down into the corresponding socket. If something is blocking the sensor, yeah then the screen wont turn on/off when you put it onto your ear.

Kenneth Hilstan -

Image 1/1: If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone 6.
  • The next three steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 6 that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down three steps for an alternate method.

  • If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone 6.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, just above (but not covering) the home button. Image 2/2: Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.
  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups.

    • Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, just above (but not covering) the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the display cables. Image 2/2: Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.
  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the display cables.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 8.

The iSclack opened the iPhone 6 with little effort. I could have given even less opening pressure than I did. Fantastic tool. Worth the investment.

Tim Dougherty - Reply

It's never mentioned anywhere that with iSclack even if you save the cables, glass easily detach from plastic frame. When you ri-assembly the phone, this will involve a glass not perfectly adherent to the body. In my opinion is better if you help yourself with a spudger to lift frame from rear case when you are using the iSclack.

marco bigoni - Reply

Holy cow this tool made it so much easier than a spudger and didn't damage anything. Totally worth the investment.

Fratelli '85 - Reply

Image 1/1: Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.
  • If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

    • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the cup is pressed securely onto the screen to get a tight seal.

This is nearly impossible on a screen that is shattered

Erik Madsen - Reply

Try putting a strip of packing tape on the screen. That will make the surface smooth and help keep the suction.

Joanna - Reply

John, your lips move but I can't hear what you're saying. ;-)

TimD -

Image 1/1: Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.
  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

  • Using a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while continuing to pull up with the suction cup.

  • There are several clips holding the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

Pulling up on the suction cup helped get me started, but what worked for me was pulling up gently while sliding the plastic prybar gently along the seam towards the top of the phone (on both sides), and it came open without having to put excess pressure on the suction.

lauren carroll - Reply

Same here, just open the gap a little with the suction cup and then use the opening tool on both sides.

Tobias - Reply

Along with the suction cup I used some Command adhesive strips to hold the bottom of the phone to a workbench as they easily pull/stretch away when you need to remove them!

Dion Sosa - Reply

Suction cup pictured here is the older version (with ring). I have one from my previous battery replacement on iPhone 5 and used that instead. The new one (gray with blue handle) kept on popping off. Overall, popping out screen was not as hard as it seems with these instructions, but do proceed with caution.

youmingc - Reply

Dion's idea to use removable adhesive strips was great, even better, use it to attach the iPhone to a clipboard. This will allow for a sort of Lazy Susan function while you work. I also used adhesive strips to attach my iPhone box to the clipboard as well and used that as a back rest (with rubber band) for the screen as pictured in steps below. This allowed me to very comfortably skip steps 13-19 as others have commented.

Adam - Reply

Image 1/2: Remove the suction cup from the display assembly. Image 2/2: Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
  • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

  • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge. Image 2/3: During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case. Image 3/3: During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.
  • Open the iPhone by swinging the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

    • Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge.

    • During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.

It's not clear from the instructions but it is shown correctly in the pictures: when the front panel assembly is just open (at a small angle with the rear case) pull the top edge clips out of the rear case to slightly separate the two components, then swing the front panel assembly away from the rear case. I assume not doing so would potentially damage the connecting ribbon and/or the alignment clips. Just a guess...

ethanlust - Reply

Image 1/3: In a pinch, an unopened canned beverage works well for this. Image 2/3: Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables. Image 3/3: Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • In a pinch, an unopened canned beverage works well for this.

  • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

A picture is worth a thousand words! This idea at Step 9 is perfect and you can definitely do the entire rest of the battery replacement WITHOUT having to disconnect the display from the rear case. Just leave it secured exactly as shown in this picture and you're good to go. I just completed the repair and the most difficult part was just lining up the new battery connector! Excellent instructions and generally EASY repair because this step was so helpful!

Ryan - Reply

I did the same. Made the work go so much smoother!

dcommins - Reply

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - Reply

I'm going to try it this way, because the odds of damaging the connector during removal seem greater than the risk of ripping the cable, however, I plan to cradle the phone in the "L" of simple, sheet metal bookend, and secure it using blue painter's tape. Seems more stable.

bobcloninger - Reply

If you do this step carefully- (rubber band the front panel, and carefully peel away the battery adhesive) you can SKIP 13 THRU 19!

Larry House - Reply

Image 1/1: One 2.2 mm screw
  • Remove the following Phillips screws from the battery connector bracket:

    • One 2.2 mm screw

    • One 3.2 mm screw

#000 needed here

David Pobuda - Reply

These screws require a Phillips #000 not Phillips #00 bit.

David Powell - Reply

How do you know that? Just wondering :)

Didier Daniel -

I replace the antenna in the upper left-hand corner an in the bottom middle with the lightning connector because After disassemble it completely i lose my ability to have Cellular. After i replace both antennas i can find i nevertheless have cellular. anybody an idea ?

kupies2011 - Reply

@davidsapowell @David+Pobuda - I've submitted an update per your comments. Thanks for the guidance!

Nate Schley - Reply

With the phillips screwdriver included in the repair kit I cannot unscrew any of the interior screws because it is not the right size even though according to these comments all of the screws are #000 and on the product listing it says that the screwdriver I got is #000. Any suggestions?

Wilson Styres - Reply

Upon reassembly I found the Red 2.2 mm screw won't seat. Is it possible it sheared off? The Orange 3.2 is solid in both holes but 2.2 doesn't securely fit in either.. Should I just leave off the 2.2?

smcgreg - Reply

My phone was missing this screw also!

Gail Starr -

Duh, had the cover on the wrong way. Switched it around and the screw fit. (:

smcgreg - Reply

When I insert the 3.2 mm screw... The phone shuts down, very weird because am not seeing what could cause this short...

Juan Monge - Reply

Using the Phillips 000 screwdriver included in the kit, I am able to remove the 3.2 mm screw, but not the 2.2 mm one.

Dan Solovay - Reply

None of the screwdriver heads in this kit are big enough for these screws!!! I now have an open iphone and i have to go to the store to buy a different screwdriver..I do not recommend this

Elaine Eason - Reply

I was unable to unscrew the 2.2mm screw with the provided screwdriver. I was able to unscrew the 3.2mm screw but not the 2.2mm

Jameison Martin - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Why in the YouTube video do you skip removing the battery connector

mjcoughlin70 - Reply

Where to buy this bracket?

syidan - Reply

Image 1/1: Take care to only pry up on the battery connector, and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Take care to only pry up on the battery connector, and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

I skipped steps 13-19 and just left the front panel rubber banded while I removed the battery. I just made sure to be careful while removing the adhesive strips so as not to move around the body of the phone too much. Skipping the steps made the whole process much faster and easier.

Tonima Chaudhury - Reply

I wish I had done that.

Gail Starr -

Thanks for this awesome tip. Made the replacement go much smoother - saved me from removing all those other screws. I also recommend watching the ifixit battery adhesive strip video before proceeding with step 21.

Andy Milne -

I also skipped steps 13-19 after reading the first comment.

youmingc - Reply

I skipped those steps too and was successful. Thanks for this tip!

jaksbackpack - Reply

Can disconnecting the battery connector while power is on ruin the backlight? Or can disconnecting the power connector at a different stage ruin the back light?

mitch Toler - Reply

You should power down the phone before disconnecting the battery. That said, the backlight should be fine. A blown backlight circuit is most commonly caused by disconnecting the display when the battery is still connected.

Jeff Suovanen -

I did open the lcd without disconnecting the battery and my lcd wouldn't working

Reza I. Permana -

Thanks for that tip Tonima! This is another confirmation that skipping steps 13-19 worked out great!

As an extra measure, in addition to leaving the front panel rubber banded in it's open, vertical position (I secured mine to a can of beans) and being very careful and controlled when removing the adhesive strips; before using the suction cup to separate the front panel from the rear case, I had secured the back side of the rear case to my working surface (kitchen table) with a strip of folded over duct tape (creating double sided tape). Such might not have been necessary as I held the rear case with one hand while removing the adhesive strips with the other, though it just felt safer having the rear case (as well as the front panel) well secured in place to help assure that I didn't accidentally cause any damage to those very fragile looking cables that were left connected, by any possible movements of either of the iPhone's halfs during the pulling to remove the adhesive strips.

Russ Levey - Reply

It happened to me, by prying the battery connector with another tool I broke part of the socket off the board. However, by placing it exactly back in place the connector could be placed correctly and it works. Lucky.

Udo Schuehle - Reply

Image 1/1: Three 1.2 mm screws
  • Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    • One 3.1 mm screw

  • Incorrect placement of these screws during reassembly will cause permanent damage to your iPhone's logic board.

Be careful when replacing the screws, not to accidentally put the 1.7mm screw into the center hole, where the 1.2 screw belongs. This can cause "Long Screw" damage, and render your phone unusable.

damianodessgillett - Reply

I don't have the magnetic pad but use duct tape face up in a tray. I write the step number and color of the screw on the sticky surface and let the screw stand heads up on the goo. The screw is presented for the driver when reassembling.

griffn - Reply

Can't stress enough how important it is not to mix up these screws! Using the 1.7mm screw for the lower left fixing will cause "long screw damage" and kill the backlight on the phone. I believe @damianodessgillett made the same point. Wish we could display a small warning message here to be extra careful for future fixers!

kev - Reply

I use a screw ID technique similar to griffn's; I print out the PDF version of the guide, then Scotch-tape each screw type to the guide at the step where the screw was removed. The screws are then distinguished by size and type at the point where they need to be reinstalled.

adlerpe - Reply

i am trying but only could open 2 screws and cannot open the rest of them, can you help me??

girlsrock742 - Reply

@girlsrock742 - I'm new here, but from what I've seen, questions like yours don't get answered. I have 2 suggestions:

# Be more specific about what your issue is.

# Make sure you're using the right screwdriver. (Get a magnifying glass & make sure the screwdriver fits nicely in the screwhead.) This guide is included in a guide I'm looking at, and my guide has a comment that #000 phillips is required for the battery connector bracket above, not #00 as documented. (That comment did not convey to this guide....)

Good luck!

Nate Schley - Reply

Thanks to @griffn & @adlerpe! I've updated the tools list to include the magnetic pad, and -- for us infrequent fixers -- I made a note in the intro text to describe the sort of thing you two noted here in place of the mag pad.

Also, to @damianodessgillett & @kev - I've submitted an update to the instructions to add the caution you recommend to the step. Hopefully others will avoid the pain of the Long Screw damage.

Nate Schley - Reply

It's possible to damage only a slot of flex cable ? I've opened my iPhone 6 but now front camera, speaker and the proximity sensor are not working. I've bought a new flex cabe to test it, but I have to be sure about that.

cruz.giovanni - Reply

I'm so worried I'm going insert the wrong screw. Does anyone have any suggestions to knowing how to properly tell the size of each screw? I bought a screw set and a magnetic pad but still have the same issue. Not knowing the correct placement of each screw. I'd definitely appreciate any help.

Patric - Reply

Hi Patric! We use a set of calipers to measure our screws, failing that you could use a very fine ruler. If you don't have any kind of measuring equipment, line the screws up on the magnetic mat and sort them by size there. Ideally you only have screws from this step! If you are trying to determine the size of all the screws in this guide, it's probably best to get a real ruler/caliper for the fine distinctions.

Sam Lionheart -

Do you have to remove the display to replace the battery?

Michael Aguilera - Reply

It's not absolutely necessary to remove the display, I kept my display propped up throughout the operation. Removal of the display doesn't seem to offer any particular benefit, unless you have problems with the adhesive strips.

Adam - Reply

Hi. I messed up with the screws in the cover guard sheet for the display ribbon and my iPhone 6 plus isn't turning on. Does that mean the logic board is dead or the battery ? Should I throw the phone in the garbage can ?

nzf - Reply

I can confirm it's not necessary to remove anything other than battery bracket. If you support the screen against something as in the picture, just make sure you hold the iPhone absolutely still with one hand while pulling out the adhesive strips with the other. I also used a small piece of tape to hold the screen in place against the box while I worked.

I am now a very happy customer and am looking forward to another few years life from my awesome iPhone 6!

Matt Whiteley - Reply

There is no need to do this step. No need to remove these 5 screws. Just make sure the screen is propped up against something strong and this step is unnecessary for the proper removal and re-insertion of battery.

arunhn - Reply

I left the front panel connected and it was much quicker. But, if you have to wrestle with the battery, it is much safer with the front panel removed. If you have worked on a few phone before, I'd try removing the battery with the front panel connected. If the battery is giving you problems(like if you tear the strips and have to heat the backside), you can always come back to this step.

Joel Horie - Reply

I strongly recommend you leave the display connectors alone if you can. My battery came out without a fight, but I found the display connectors to be almost tragically delicate, and I had white lines in the display when I booted it. During the subsequent attempts to remedy that situation, things went down hill and now I'm waiting for an entirely new display to try to rescue the phone from repair oblivion.

kevin hekman - Reply

I also skipped all of the screen-removal steps and had nary a problem. Just rubber band the screen around whatever it is propped against and I believe you'll be fine.

Billy Bob Baler - Reply

Hello! I put the screws on in the wrong order and I believe my backlight is dead, iTunes still recognizes my phone when I plug it in, but the screen is blank. Is it possible to replace the logic board or is the phone useless forever?

Tanya Lyn Willard - Reply

You probably connected the cables wrong, try doing this step again and carefully correct your cables.

June Beltran -

I totally recommend doing this step first before removing the battery connector bracket, it will be much easier and comfortable with the screen out of the way.

Also I recommend drawing the bracket on a piece of paper and place the screws on top of the respective position on the drawing, this way you won't be confused when putting them back.

June Beltran - Reply

I accidentally lost a 1.2mm screw while doing a screen replacement. Will this make the phone malfunction in anyway after I close it back up or its fine?

Walter White - Reply

DO NOT DO THIS STEP. It is totally unnecessary to remove the connectors, and they are a really big pain to put back in, and there is risk of damaging them, and it adds a lot of time to the process of replacing the battery. Just securely prop up the front panel, and then if you gently heat the back of the phone when removing the adhesive strips, the battery comes off easily. I could have saved myself about 2 hours and a lot of frustration if I had just left these connectors in. I wish the instructions here would just include this step (connector removal) ONLY IF the battery doesn't come out easily.

J Marr - Reply

Exactly, just like J, Marr indicates, this step is not necessary. Just make sure you're careful to not move the phone too much, otherwise you can damage the film connectors. Other than that I even heated my phone to remove the adhesive, and thank God, nothing bad happened to it.

Mc Floyd -

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - Reply

How can't you do step 33 if you don't do 13-19? iPhone 6.

predylindsay - Reply

I'm missing something here, I want to swap out the screen. How does one skip steps 13-19 if wanting to remove the screen?

BW Lee - Reply

Any tips for removing the 1.2 mm screws? Mine won't budge at all with the PH000 and I'm afraid I'm stripping the screws.

MClare - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector. Image 2/2: Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.
  • In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets on the logic board.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

I can not get these electrical connections to reconnect. If there is some secret to this it should be noted. I now have a phone all taken apart and can not get it back together. It makes no sense to only give directions to take a phone apart and not to put it back together.

douglas hughes - Reply

Use sideways bright light and peek underneath as you mate the contacts to align properly. Press very gently and evenly. Others have written that too much pressure in the center may warp the contact.

mahoffman - Reply

I'm having the same problem as above...really upset and frustrated at this point. :( 2/4 connectors (top and right) will 'click' just fine...the other two (bottom two) for the life of me wont connect!!!! :( any suggestions? i feel like i have tried everything. Sucks that is only thing stopping me screen from being repaired....

alyssaavaldezz - Reply

Hi alyssa. Were you able to connect the cables? I am having the same problem

Veronica del Rio -

regarding cable connects - if two of the ribbon cables are not properly overlapped around each other, then it will appear as if cable #2 will need to plug into the closest jack, which is actually for cable#3. Look at the two connectors carefully - they are opposite gender and can't be interchanged.

David Panak - Reply

This is good advice, and usually the problem people experience here. There is a very specific way the ribbon cables are layered, and if not correct when reassembled, the reach of the cables will cause you to assume which cable goes where and to try to insert the wrong plugs into the wrong sockets. Please do not try to force them. If they don't snap in easily, examine them closely, and you'll see the plugs and sockets are slightly different sizes, with one wider than the other. Better to take care to note how the cables layer during disassembly, or perhaps mark them to avoid this frustration on reassembly.

gybeho -

Check order of cables. From screen replacement.

lee moran - Reply

my problem is that the connectors are different the screen i replaced it with the connectors were longer than the broken screen even though there the exact same type of screen

andrew midgett - Reply

Probably just have the cables out of order. Check the posts above.

gybeho - Reply

"gybeho" Ok, but it's impossible to install flex cables out of order. Each one has diferent sizes of docking...

cruz.giovanni - Reply

it is very possible to install flex cables out of order. to most people working on their first screen replacement they do not have the experience to notice that their flex cable connection is different than the dock connection. this causes them to press harder and force the connection into the dock, ruining the connections, if they do not think the they have the cables out of order

Dakota Navarrete - Reply

I'm with Andrew Midgett. The connectors are just plain different in size and orientation. My phone matches what's shown in the picture above. You can see an example of the replacement part if you search Amazon for "Sanka LCD Touch Screen Digitizer Frame Assembly Full Set Screen Replacement for iPhone 6". And Sanka isn't the only iPhone 6 replacement that looks like that, so no hating on that manufacturer here.

Does this mean that some iPhone 6 phones have one set of connectors and some have a different set? FWIW, the model on the back of my phone says A1549.

PG McLaughlin - Reply

Update: Searching for iPhone 6S instead of 6 on Amazon, I see lots of replacement screens with connectors that look a lot more like what I have and what's shown in the picture above. (One connector has a horizontal orientation, the other is vertical. I can't be sure whether the pins or dimensions match otherwise.) Any wisdom here?

PG McLaughlin - Reply

Had the same problem with the correct layering of cable harnesses. Perhaps an additional photo showing the correct layering would be helpful for 1st timers?

William Breen - Reply

+1 for a photo showing the correct layering and routing of cables. I accidentally routed the home button ribbon above the digitizer ribbon and beneath the power and backlight ribbons. The uneven pressure it put on the digitizer connector after tightening the plate caused my digitizer to not recognize touching the display or made touches appear off center.

drpotter -

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector.

Muy buenas....una pregunta el botón falla o no está bien conectar este conector ¿ se apagaría el teléfono?. Repare mi iphone y al conectarlo se me apaga el movil, sin embargo si no lo enchufo el movil enciende perfectamente.


Berta fernandez - Reply

Image 1/2: When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to [guide|29363|disconnect and reconnect the battery connector|stepid=69537]. Image 2/2: When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to [guide|29363|disconnect and reconnect the battery connector|stepid=69537].
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display data cable connector.

  • When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.

you missed the name of the second connctor. there are four total

copykatt - Reply

My screen is completely black and i can see the lights turning on when i press the home or lock button. Maybe this cable got damaged ?

Gabriel Hirata - Reply

Perhaps you bought a faulty screen. Often this is the case when it shows completely black.

William Mullan - Reply

When I was preforming this step, while reassembling, I had to connect the digitizer cable four times. On the last time, before screwing the Front Panel Assembly Cable Bracket on, I reconnected the battery connector and turned my phone on (ensuring that I was careful not to damage any cables!) to ensure that all cables were connected correctly and that the screen was fully functional.

Christopher - Reply

NO NO NO ! i am a professional iphone repairman and i strongly recommend against using ANY tool to disconnect the flex connectors if u slip or use to much force you will damage the connector and may cause permanent damage to the phones logic board rendering it completely UNrepairable! Instead gently use the edge of your fingernail and pry up and the connectors will usually come off with very little effort .

taylor sparks - Reply

Fingernails work great as well! However, there's nothing wrong with using a tool, as long as you exercise a little caution. If you've ever seen one of Apple's iPhone service manuals, you'll note that they use the exact same tool as iFixit (Apple calls it a "black stick" and iFixit dubs it a "spudger.")

Jeff Suovanen -

I'm pretty sure ifixit are pros, I used them 4 times to fix phones and no problems with using tools for flex cables.

Dave - Reply

If you still have white lines after you've tried reconnecting the connectors and power cycling. Just do a hard reset a few more times, let the phone stay on and wait a while. As long as it's not damaged, the lines will fade over the next hour or so. Your phone will be as good as new.

grjos - Reply

Image 1/2: When reconnecting the digitizer cable, '''do not press the center of the connector'''. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage. Image 2/2: When reconnecting the digitizer cable, '''do not press the center of the connector'''. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

  • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Reassembly was harder than other i devices I have worked on. A bench light from the side helped a lot with the first cable, the digitizer. The others went a bit better in this crowded space. I had screen lines when testing it out before closing the top, so reinstalled all four connectors here with the aid of a side light and happily, that worked!

griffn - Reply

i crossed over the first two cables initially, when re-assembled; make sure by the WIDTH that you are trying to connect them in the right order.

awr - Reply

How many times can i peel these connections without braking the connection between screen and logic borad

falken1337 - Reply

Is this the breaking down process for the Verizon version of the iPhone 6s? I know the flex cables were different for other versions and with my last iPhone I made the mistake of ordering one that had completely different cable places. Someone please send me a link to one that fits the Verizon 4.7 display!!!

Bailey Duncan - Reply

This break down isn't for a 6S. It is for a plain 6 (no S). Yes there is some differences because of the 3D touch feature.

Keith Mullins - Reply

So what is the fix if there is digitizer damage? Replacing the screen?

After reinstallation, I am encountering issues with an area of the screen that is not responding to touch. Everything else works fine.

Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed?

Jonathan Rivera - Reply

I had the most issues when reassembling with this step. The plastic tool is a fail in my experience since not enough pressure could be applied using it. I just ended up using my finger and that worked 10Xs better. My advice, watch a few YouTube videos of people reconnecting the connectors and you'll be fine.

grjos - Reply

I have dis-connected and reconnected several times with the white line appearing each time. The screen however seems to be responsive. I did lose a 1.2 mm screw. Is it the missing screw or did I damage the digitizer connection?

Charlotte - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Lightning connector assembly cable and fold it out of the way of the speaker.

My new part with the lightning connector did not have a foam backer. I carefully removed the one from the old part and used a small dab of glue with a toothpick to place it. I wasn't very careful and ended up tearing the foam, but I glued the pieces on, essentially reassembling them again.

xtophr - Reply

I bought a replacement part from iFixit due to the lightning port was not working properly and followed this guide. Up until replacing the antenna cable. I admit one part is my fault, i was looking properly and i was trying to push it in to the screw hole next to the original antenna connector and i think i may have damaged it. I put it in the correct connector and it found my carrier but with only a low signal, one or two bars sometimes no service. I tried to make a call but it instantly said call failed after a few minutes i was able to make a call. I asked them to call me back which it did call on their phone but no activity on mine so it just went straight to voicemail. I replaced the old part and the phone worked good as new other than the doggy lightning port. So i put it down to me damaging the antenna connector. So i brought a new one from amazon as the part was now out of stock on iFixit. i followed the same steps and put the antenna in the correct place with no force and still having a problem.

brandonf08 - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the point of a spudger to lift the antenna cable connector up off of its socket on the logic board.

it is a pain to disconnect and reconnect, it is one of the longest parts for me

James - Reply

You may find it easier to leave the bracket on the speaker housing and just slip the wire out of the bracket. Then as you put things back together, attach the connector before slipping the wire back in to the bracket as you will have more slack this way for connecting it up

phonesurgeon -

My new part with the antenna wire did not have a foam backer. I carefully removed the one from the old part and used a small dab of glue with a toothpick to place it.

xtophr - Reply

It took me quite some time both to disconnect and reconnect. I actually don't know how I got it to finally reconnect. Maybe I was overly worried about bending it, took me about a half hour.

Ian Deshotels - Reply

Did I bork my connector? - after reading these comments on reconnecting, I think I'm just eye fatigued, but I can't get that %#*@ connector back on there again....

keimel - Reply

This step was the longest for me, too. Getting it off wasn't so bad, but reconnecting took me about 20 or 30 minutes. I was using the curved tweezers to hold the wire and the flat end of the spudger to press the connector down. Be patient, it will take a while unless you get lucky lining it up just so. Make sure it goes down flat and square. It doesn't take a lot of pressure, but I didn't feel any noticeable "click". But I did feel it going on correctly when I finally got all the planets to align.

Todd - Reply

The antenna reconnection is the most difficult step. I spent 2 hours last night just trying to reconnect it. In fact I gave up and moved the iPhone to a safe area to attempt again in the morning. But then I tried one last time and success, somehow. My success: started by putting the wire side of the connector down (lower left) and then rocked up and right with the flat end of the spudger. It kind of rocked into place with an audible click.

Big picture: You've got to read all the comments before beginning the repair. There's gold in here!

James Logsdon - Reply

I've been trying for over an hour to get the antenna connector back without success. Have the speaker out and may try it with the speaker in... very frustrating.

After getting ready to give up making the antenna connection, I tried the old antenna connection and it popped onto place on the first try. Then tried the new connection and it popped into place on first try. Maybe something misaligned, old connector maybe helped realign so new connector now worked. Everything back together and working perfectly.

Gary Menszyk - Reply

Image 1/1: Two 2.9 mm screws
  • Remove the following four Phillips #00 screws securing the speaker:

    • Two 2.9 mm screws

    • Two 2.3 mm screws

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the point of a spudger to push the antenna interconnect cable clip off of the speaker housing.

If you're replacing with a new lightning cord/headphone jack unit, this little antenna interconnect cable clip may need to be moved over to the new part.

Sequim - Reply

Hi is there a specific name for this antenna I have lost mine and need a replacement

David wardill - Reply

I'm not sure whether you can buy it separately, but you can get it as part of the Lightning connector assembly.

Jeff Suovanen -

Yes, they should add that as a step to move the connector over to the new cable. I think putting the antenna cable clip ( large hole side in on the bottom side) into the speaker before connecting the cable is easier. then snap the cable into it.

kevinmathieu - Reply

Image 1/3: Remove the speaker from the iPhone. Image 2/3: Remove the speaker from the iPhone. Image 3/3: Remove the speaker from the iPhone.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the speaker up and out of the rear case.

  • Remove the speaker from the iPhone.

Is the process completed ?

If i remove the speaker , then what eals ? I need to fix the speaker?

Ali - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the vibrator to the rear case.

If you are experiencing cellular signal issues, take note. The antenna cable here has a housing clip that is supposed to be soldiered. If you dropped your phone and/or had your broken screen replaced its very possible the this clip is loose and not getting full metal to metal contact. This is why you see so many people seeing success with the "drop the phone" method and their signal is restored. I weighed soldering this joint but found I was able to make a solid joint with the force of tweezers clamping it down.

Aaron - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the vibrator from the iPhone.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 3.1 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the Lightning port retaining bracket.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the Lightning port retaining bracket.

If the Lightning port retaining bracket gets lost, I'm assuming the phone won't function properly without it. Can anyone affirm this?

Sarah Yates - Reply

When reassembling, ensure that the oval cutout in the ribbon cable fits around the double screw post to the right of the vibrator before tightening down the microphone brace.

Steve Wechsler - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the single 3.6 mm Phillips #00 shoulder screw from the microphone brace.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the microphone brace from the iPhone.

be careful when realigning the microphone and brace as if not properly square - microphone sounds muffled. So check before you reassemble.

Donna Burton - Reply

Image 1/1: Two 3.1 mm shoulder screws
  • Remove the six remaining Phillips #00 screws from the Lightning connector assembly:

    • Two 3.1 mm shoulder screws

    • Two 1.7 mm screws

    • Two 1.5 mm screws

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to begin peeling the Lightning connector assembly up from the rear case.

Probably extremely strong glue. Some heat should help.

Sash - Reply

Mind ended up ripping, heat may of prevented this. Wonder if some heat would of made it so I didn't have to scrape as much residue off. I wasn't sure but it seemed like more of this goldish to metal connection is desirable, so I tried to take as much of the old stuff off as possible.

Ian Deshotels - Reply

I don't have a hairdryer or other heat gun but I put a sheet pan in the oven. I heated it to the lowest setting (170F) on my oven. When hot, it took it out, turned it upside down and waited until the pan was able to be handled by my bare hands. Only at that point did I lay the open phone on it. It was enough to soften the glue. NOTE: I DID NOT PUT THE PHONE IN THE OVEN. It worked great.

Kent Walker - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Carefully pull the Lightning connector assembly up slightly to free it from the vibrator and speaker screw posts.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift under the Lightning connector portion of the assembly to free more adhesive.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the point of a spudger to push the microphone portion of the Lightning connector assembly out of its recess in the rear case.

The microphone portion of the lightning connector has a small black piece attached. My replacement part from iFixit did not have that or the adhesive required to reattach it. I just kind of wedged it in there but now people have trouble hearing me. I will probably have to take it apart again and find a way to secure it better.

monroejosh - Reply

Did you have any luck with this? I had the same exact problem. Also the phone is dropping calls and not connecting calls all the time. I struggled getting the antenna connected but finally it snapped in firmly and I thought it was good to go.

stanos1 -

I had the same problem

michaelwhitley - Reply

My parts come with adhesive on the back of the flex where the microphone is. It is worth adding that the black bumper beneath the microphone is part of the microphone assembly and should be taken off the old flex and attached to the new one. The bumper that is screwed down above the microphone should hold it securely in place against the bottom one, but obviously if your flex doesn't come with adhesive on that particular area you will need some double sided tape or something similar to hold them together

phonesurgeon - Reply

Looks like this is where I may have gone astray on reassembly. Symptom is microphone only works with Siri and in speakerphone. Turns out there are three. So the bottom one is need for phone calls. Almost there - will pull apart again and see I can clean up the mic install.

adamcfrench - Reply

My lighting cable assembly microphone cable did have adhesive. The guide should be enhanced to explain that the plastic insert is connected to the cable with adhesive and should be transferred to the replacement assembly.

Rainer Otto - Reply

When you try and insert the new part (assembly) the mic may prevent you from sliding the assembly in, until you realize that the mic needs to BEND a little - to a 90 degree angle, before the assembly will fit.

keimel - Reply

The grey charger port fits against a black brace that you can vaguely see in this picture, I am missing that piece currently. Does anyone know where I could possibly get it?

e.prescott96 - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Gently run the point of a spudger under the assembly between the Lightning connector and the headphone jack to free it from the last of the adhesive.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Remove the Lightning connector assembly from the iPhone. Image 2/3: Examine your replacement part, and your original cable carefully to be sure they match. Your replacement Lightning connector assembly may be missing certain components that need to be transferred from the original. Image 3/3: Components that commonly need to be transferred include the headphone jack gasket, rubber microphone cover, and antenna interconnect clip.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to help guide the headphone jack out of its recess in the rear case.

  • Remove the Lightning connector assembly from the iPhone.

  • Examine your replacement part, and your original cable carefully to be sure they match. Your replacement Lightning connector assembly may be missing certain components that need to be transferred from the original.

    • Components that commonly need to be transferred include the headphone jack gasket, rubber microphone cover, and antenna interconnect clip.

The uFL (antenna) connector can be difficult to line up and get reconnected

kevdougful - Reply

I agree. I found it much easier to attach it before slipping the wire back into the holder in the bracket as you have more slack to play with. Or if the wire was removed still in the bracket from the speaker housing as the guide says, it would be easier to reattach the connector before screwing the bracket back down (again, more slack)

phonesurgeon - Reply

Re: difficult antenna attachment — Sliding pressure from left to right, instead of straight down, seemed helpful. Although, I may have gotten lucky after trying to attach for about 30 minutes (!!!). Loosening the 2.9 mm screw holding the bracket seemed to better my chances for sure. Thanks!

James Collins -

why is it nec to remove the digitizer from the phone. as long as its propped up and not putting stress on the ribbon cables?

gocaps25 - Reply

It's not strictly necessary, but it's probably easier in the long run and less likely to cause accidental damage.

Jeff Suovanen -

also, dont forget to pull the black gasket from the old headphone jack and put on the new headphone jack.

gocaps25 - Reply

My (loud) speaker isnt working after replacing the connector. What could I have done wrong? Can it be broken?

Bilal Oruc - Reply

I completed the repair and the phone is almost working. EVERYTHING is working fine but if I try to talk on it, no one can hear me unless I plug in the earbuds. I did carefully check the microphone and the black gasket but it still didn't work. Text works, voice over earbuds works fine. I know that after reading some other comments, the microphone may not be positioned correctly but for me... this is not a problem. I only wanted to get to the iPhone 8. I rarely use the phone for voice anyway. If I have to use the earbuds to talk on it, I am OK with that. I don't want to risk opening it again and possibly making things worse. I know for some, this would not be workable, but it is for me. Thanks to iFixit... I didn't have to buy a replacement iPhone 6 at this time. It is charging, and I have tested most things and thus, if it will get me to the upgrade (whenever that elusive iPhone 8 comes out) it was a success.

Kent Walker - Reply I did this and everything seems to be working fine except now I get no signal when I'm inside. I keep getting a "no service" message. Did I muck up the antennae? anyone able to provide a clue?

gerard thai - Reply


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

360 other people completed this guide.

Sam Lionheart

Member since: 10/18/2012

265,815 Reputation

1,110 Guides authored


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It isn't necessary to remove the screen as long as you can support it properly while doing the rest of the work. In my experience, unnecessarily removing screens can do more harm than good and causes extra work for yourself

phonesurgeon - Reply

I was trying to find exactly this message. Thanks!

Emilio Zaidman -

Just completed this in about an hour. Follow the steps slowly and closely, then power cycle your device at the end. BAM you're done before you know!

djhergs - Reply

I changed the charge port on an iphone 6. Apple diagnose the charge port not working to the owner of this iPhone. Now that its changed the phone still wont turn on. It doesnt even show the battery icon that it needs to be charged. What is a most likely scenario for this? Is it a bad LCD? A bad Battery? Someone help me.

Jose Lopez - Reply

im having the same problem also replaced battery and charging port, phone does nothing

ocvilla -

If your microphone isn't working , check to see that the double stick tape is not blocking its input. Obviously the microphone needs airflow to get it to respond to anything, and as it came from ifixit, the adhesive tape was not perforated, so no "signal" was reaching the microphone. Consequently nobody could hear me on the phone. Since the iPhone already has the microphone brace, I just removed the double stick tape that was included on the back of the new microphone, made sure the microphone was centered on its rubber housing and post, then pressed the brace tightly against the microphone with tweezers while I screwed it down. I had called myself using google voice to aid in troubleshooting the microphone, and that horrible echo feedback (aka alien-whale-sex noise) you get when you put the phone up the computer's speakers signalled that the microphone was now picking up its surroundings. Hooray! Despite my minor difficulties, I'm still blown away with the stuff you can get from Ifixit. Thanks! DW

dave white - Reply

After connecting all worked except microphone during normal phone mode. Turns out both Siri and speaker phone mode use different microphone. Suspect it may have been the adhesive on the small piece connected tot he mic. Will tear down again and take a closer look at the microphone setup.

adamcfrench - Reply

Any luck there Adam?

Ortenga -

Finished the repair but now my speaker isn't working properly. The volume works up to about 50% (but sounds dimmer than usual). By about 60% the speaker cuts out and stops working. Any thoughts what this could be? I took it apart again and reseated the speaker but no luck.

brettking88 - Reply

So phone recently acquired some water damage. It won't hold a charge, the charge icon is missing on the main screen and there is a little bit of damage on the screen in that it appears like slightly smudged lines under the screen. What is the best recommendation for fixing all of these issues. I had thought at first just replace the battery but now it appears as though the best option is to replace the lightening port. I guess I'm just looking for some advice/confirmation before I begin!

Jessica Harville - Reply

Just finished and glad to see my Phone working flawlessly again. Thanks for the awesome guide.

One thing not in the instructions - Be sure to check the old assembly for the small black rectangular bracket/setting for the mic and the super thin black gasket looking piece that goes around the headphone jack before discarding the old assembly. If you don't, your mic will likely be loose and not sit in the recess properly when you re-assemble.

Brian C - Reply

After having done this guide I now got a problem: When I plug in my phone it shows me the charging battery symbol but isn't really charging because no matter how long I wait the phone can't be turned on. Also it's even too empty now to show the battery loading animation anymore.

What do the upper gold pins from the lightning connector unit do?

Sebastian Pini - Reply

PLEASE tell me this problem got solved. I just ran into it myself.

Brett Anderson -

Microphone was distant sounding and muddy. Upon disassembly it appears the adhesive that holds the screen in place between the microphone and housing had liquefied a bit and spread out to the point that it was covering the entire screen (may have liquefied from cleaning it externally with alcohol over a couple of years). I peeled the adhesive off from the half of the screen that goes over the hole in the housing and left a bit on the end to hold it in place. The microphone is loud and clear now with no money spent on parts.

Scott Bellamy - Reply

Had an issue with the charging port not working, used the walkthrough, within an hour the issue was fixed and I had power again!

2 hours later my phone started to drop out to 'no service'. Would then come on to my home network with 1-2 bars of service, but all calls and texts fail???

I assumed that it was the bottom antenna next to the battery that was the issue, as when I was reassembling the phone, I found that extremely difficult to click in place, I shook my phone and could here something rattling inside so I guessed it was the antenna.

Took the phone apart a few times to fix it, after my third attempt im positive the antenna has clicked in place. But still I have the issue of calls failing and texts not sending. I thought if the antenna was not connected properly then I wouldn't connect to O2 at all?

Maybe worth mentioning, theres a screw missing from the cover for the screen connectors? surely that wouldn't be an issue?

My SIM works in an Android phone, so I'm ruling out a network failure.

Jonathan Lewis - Reply

I'm having this same issue Jonathan. Were you able to find a fix?

Jacob Hall -

So if replacing this the unit still does not power on. What is the next logical part to troubleshoot?

Kheenan Halvorson - Reply

Can I replace the lightening port itself on an iphone6 not the whole unit inc the flex and jack etc with IPhone 6plus lightening port?

David Foster - Reply

How to fix back

Muteb mubarak - Reply

That was one of the easiest fixes I have ever had and its marked Difficult. Ironically, the hardest fix to date was the lightning port on the 5s and that is marked moderate. That was far and above anything I have had to fix before and many missing steps. Even easier than the ipad mini! Just dont forget to compare parts or tape/foam covering old parts and replace on new parts.

gocaps25 - Reply

Jonathan Lewis,

I've had the same problem as you; however, I'm not missing a screw. After replacing this item -- which is relatively easy -- I can no longer get a good cellular signal. Cellular connection frequently goes to 3g or 1x, and with only 2 bars, and calls/texts are dropped frequently. Calls/texts do work when connected via wifi, though.

-I properly used a grounding strap prior to working on the phone

-I'm certain the antenna was clicked into place completely

-I re-opened the phone to re-check connections, and they're good

My concern is that since the new part didn't come with new foam, I re-used the old foam for the connectors/antenna. The antenna foam piece was good, but the battery and lightning ribbon connectors have only partial foam on them now due to breakage during transfer. Perhaps this partial foam transfer is causing a grounding issue. I do wish that ifixit would offer replacement foam pieces for sale if they didn't come with the part.

Paul Briggs - Reply

Paul, more likely some of the screws have not been done up too loosely or they are not grounding properly. There is quite a few screws in the iPhone design that are used as connectors for the ariels. Have another crack at it. That antenna connector is a really difficult piece to get connected, so although you are certain, double check it. Also make sure it is guided through the right channels, and not being crimped anywhere as that may be causing premature grounding. Best.

Ben -

I had my phone repaired at a local shop for a dodgy aux port. They replaced this part but I now have no signal whatsoever and the battery died extremely fast. The back gets really hot and to top it off the aux port is fuzzy and crap.

I went back and they replaced the part again turns out to be exactly the same. I got a refund but after looking into it it's far cheaper and easier to fix myself.

Before I start any tips or explainations to what my phone is doing?

Much appreciated.

iPhone 6s

Kieren - Reply

Is the iPhone 6 connector assembly the same than for the iPhone 6S?

I can´t find one for my 6S...

Thank you for any advise

schmitgil - Reply

No, the iPhone 6s is a slightly different assembly. I made the mistake of buying a 6s assembly for a 6 phone. Had to wait on repair while exchange part shipped! Got mine from Amazon.

Charlotte -

I changed the charging port reassembling it all again I do not work as the speaker!

help me!!!

michele casamassima - Reply

Make sure you've used the right screws in the right holes for this. The speaker uses the screws for connectivity and may not be getting a signal if the screws are incorrect..

Ben -

My phone took a dunk in some water and now won't turn on. I changed the battery as well as the charging port. Still nothing. Any suggestions?

Jake Benton - Reply

You may have fried the logic board. You'll probably need a new one. :(

Ben -

After replacing the lightning assembly, my phone is still having issues charging. It will charge when the power is turned off, but once the phone is turned on, it stops charging and is not recognized when plugged into the computer, either. Any suggestions?

ajf1994 - Reply

Took me about 1,5h to complete this and it seems to have solved my charging issues.

Ben Rexwinkel - Reply

I completed this repair in about 20 minutes, little bit of difficulty getting the digitiser connector to go in, but thats just the design of the phone and connector. Great job on the guide!

Ben - Reply

After replacing the lightning connector assembly I do not get very good signal strength. Everything else works fine and fixed my charge/earphone jack problems. My signal strength is very intermittent switching between 3G and 4G and seldom make calls. I'm guessing this would relate to the antenna connector which I have disconnected and reconnected several times, checked all the screws to make sure they are tight and in correctly around the case. It seems to be a common problem when replacing this part, any suggestions on how to fix the antenna problem?

a) try another part?

b) reinstall the old part?

c) could it be from opening the case?

d) I have no idea...

By the way the guide was really good! Thank you.

taylzee - Reply

Update - reinstalled old part and it worked fine. Faulty part and getting refund. Will buy from a different seller with guaranteed genuine OEM part.

taylzee -

Same problem as Jonathan Lewis, Paul Briggs, Kieren and Taylzee here.

I installed the lightning connector assembly 3 days ago, everything went pretty smooth.

Like so many others it took me a while to get the antenna connector back in but that worked eventually with a bit of patience.

Now I notice the same symptoms as the people above wrote, weak signal strength and failed calls, over and over again.

I checked and re-checked everything by the way, all screws are properly in place and the antenna is clicked on.

Taylzee, did you get your lightning connector assembly from iFixit? I'll see if I can get a refund or a replacement part.

Ortenga - Reply

I contacted iFixit and explained the situation. They replied quickly and sent me a new part with a quick delivery method. Thumbs up for their customer service.

I have yet to replace the faulty with the new part but will post an update once done.

Ortenga -

I bought the first one off eBay from Sydney and got a refund no questions asked. I bought a second one from the USA which their photos of the part were exactly like the original part, Apple symbol and part number, yet receiving the part it is the same as the first one I bought (JBL meks 121437). I am in the process of another refund.

After hours of trying to diagnose the where the signal transmission drop is coming from I gave up, it seems to be around the lower part of the case for me. When the screen is partially opened and still connected at the top (case to case) it seems to work better but not 100%. Could be just coincidence as reinstalling the old part with the phone in two halves worked fine.

Batch of $@$* parts? Could be, I am open to suggestions.

taylzee -

I'm experiencing the same problem here. After replacing the lightning assembly connector, I'm experiencing signal drop, call and message failure. Did you replace the part ? Did it fix the problem ?

Thanks for your feedback

Nicolas Rouvière -

I tried two replacement parts from iFixit: both defective (low signal or no signal, dropped calls, the works).

Never had problems with their stuff before (I am an ACMT, use iFixit parts A LOT for OOW repairs).

I am very disappointed.

Enrico -

I am having the same issue replaced the lightning connector twice, and calls are dropping (call failed) and people cant always call me , i put the original lightning cable back and the signal is fine? has anyone found a fix?

Dan -

Hey guys!

Same problem here. I haven't tried putting the original part back again, but double checked the connection and everything looks fine. However, I do have low signal in part of the house where I used to have better. And another iPhone 6 has better signal than mine. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Emilio Zaidman -

Fantastic guide. Finished in about 1.5 hours. My charging port was faulty. Used this to replace it. One thing I recommend to not lose screws is take a white sheet of paper and draw a rough diagram with the step number and positions of each individual screw. After removing the screw, tape it down so it will not get lost. Saves a lot of trouble trying to figure out which screw is which. See link for my diagram

Another example

Stephan - Reply

Excellent guide! My iPhone 6 had issues with both Lightning and headphone connectivity and I'm happy to say that both are fully functional and connect flawlessy now. Patience is key- if you try to rush through these repairs it's almost certainly going to lead to disappointment, but if you take your time, work in a well-lit area, and have the right organization and tools anyone can complete this repair.

Zach Ritchey - Reply

This guide is comprehensive and very easy to follow. This isn't a job for the technically-inept, but it's simple enough for someone with reasonably good intuition and skills.

Jeff Rose - Reply

About as good instructions as you can find; together with a few helpful comments I aced it in 45 min.

Many thanks to all involved.

Andrei Tudoran - Reply

Loved using the magnetic mat from ifixit, really helped with this tear down. Some of the steps in reverse were more challenging, the comments really helped. some photos or videos might be nice for some of the more challenging steps like connected the antenna again? Thanks for the guide and the parts!

Ian Deshotels - Reply

Did you have to buy all those parts or did just having the Lightning Connector and Headphone jack part suffice? Thanks in advance

Juan Rodriguez -

I was wondering if all these parts are needed to complete this repair, or can I just use the ones already in the device. The only part I bought was the iPhone 6 Lightning Connector and Headphone Jack. The ones below I have not bought, can i just use the originals?

iPhone 6 Lightning Connector Bracket

iPhone 6 Front Panel Assembly Cable Bracket

iPhone 6 Battery Connector Bracket

iPhone 6 Microphone Brace

Juan Rodriguez - Reply

Hi Juan, the parts listed are not a requirement for this guide. You could replace any of those parts by following this guide, but you only need to replace whichever one is broken in your unit. As long as you follow the guide carefully (and the phone doesn't have other secret issues) no other component should need replacing because of following the guide!

Sam Lionheart -

I'd like to add that the part you buy from IFixIT has some blue tape like stuff which has to be removed when you install the parts. This is not noted in the guide.

keimel - Reply

The additional PDF file with the screw and part pieces was BEAUTIFUL - every guide should include it! So helpful!

keimel - Reply

Hey, are all Iphone 6 components like this? I'm used to a different port/component in the southern areas of the US. Great tutorial, I'm just wondering.

Daniel - Reply

Great guide! The one item I had an issue with was the piece referenced in step 35 (as of this writing, the step where the small plastic microphone piece gets removed from the phone housing).. This microphone assembly is glued to your old lightning connector cable and must be removed and transferred to the new one. There is only a pinhole (literally) that allows sound to pass from the plastic piece into the microphone cable, and those two parts need to be very precisely aligned before you press it onto the adhesive to reattach it... It took me several attempts to ensure the plastic microphone piece was properly aligned with the cable (pinhole-to-pinhole). Other than that, flawless.

bigguyyy - Reply

Hello there i Got thar problem With my iPhone 6 its dead it Won't turn on it won't charge ive tryed with med batteri and Mew lightning Dock but its dead Can somebody help me what Can be wrong with it :/

knold_johansen - Reply

I've got a very strange problem and I was wondering if anyone could help me. I've replaced the unit as above and now my microphone is acting strange. If I make a call the person on the other end can't hear me and I can only hear my own voice through my earpiece! (Feedback?) even if I mute the microphone I can still hear my own voice.

Any advice?

Dank Tales - Reply

Great! I solved the charging problem.. before it was only able to charge with some cables, or switched off.. after buying a new charging dock by 10 euros and following this material, its solved!!!! (In an apple store they wanted me to pay 400 CHF)

Thanks a lot!!!!!!

Francisco S-Climent - Reply

Hi there

just wondering if the foam used on the mic brackets is different from the foam used elsewhere. Is it designed to be acoustically transparent. I have an ebay phone and it had lots of bits missing as well as dodgy mic. I replaced the lightning connector assemble and while doing so realised the upper mic bracket was missing. I bought a new one but it came without foam. I can buy foam, pads but don't want to be insulating the mic.

Kevin Mackenzie - Reply

Did no solve my charging issues. Phone wouldn't charge at all and still will not charge after replacing the part.

John Tran - Reply

I purchased the part to replace a non working microphone.

A few notes to buyers:

1. some smaller parts (brackets, etc) must be switched over from the non-working part (i.e. antenna cable bracket)

2. no EMI foam on the top of the replacement part's antenna. That may or may not cause problems.

3. the replacement antenna connector is a VERY tight fit. Take maximum care when connecting it to avoid damage to the board.

4. last, but not least: The first part I received was defective. The microphone worked perfectly, but the antenna had SEVERE connection problems (no connection, dropped call, impossible to make or receive calls). I contacted iFixit and got a replacement. Unfortunately the replacement had the SAME EXACT problem. At that point, to exclude a mistake on my part (I am a trained Apple Technician, but you never know), I reinstalled the original part. Connection is again flawless. Returned the part and got a refund, had to contact a lawyer because iFixit is refusing compensation. Not good.

Enrico - Reply

Followed this guide and everything worked as illustrated! Great step by step manual. Laid out my screws by each step and then simply reversed the steps putting it what together. Replaced the battery while I was in the phone.

Dustin Insell - Reply

Hi, I replaced the lightning port assembly and now my iPhone 6 says I touch is not activated and headphone jack is not working. What could be the problem?

Christopher Melillo - Reply

Just did this, I did not remove the screen as that seemed more difficult than it needed to be. Only took me an hour and I've never opened up a phone before. Somehow everything works perfectly. I bought the part from the ifixit store and I bought a tool kit on amazon for 7 bucks. Greats purchase.

Aaron Musengo - Reply

I'm buying a second spare part because the first one (from amazon) had signal problems with the antenna. The second one says "Apple Original spare" and doubles the price of the first. I will tell you later the result...

Alejandro Matias - Reply

Hey! Any news? Did the new replacement work as expected? If so, could you share the link with me? I bought it on Amazon (less than US $8), but having the low signal issue now. Thanks!

Emilio Zaidman -

I've repaired iPhones several times for broken switches, home button, shattered screens, faulty batteries, etc. in the past and this was the hardest one I think I've ever done due to that antenna cable. Took me over half an hour but it magically fell into place unexpectedly and everything seems to be working great. I bought the replacement part from iFixit after seeing reviews from others who had problems with parts from eBay (my usual source). Works great. Thanks for a good guide.

Brian Sanders - Reply

I did the above process and I am having the same issues with weak service. I tossed my old original part not knowing I needed to interconnect bracket off of it for the antenna. Could this be part of my problem? Does that bracket serve as a ground? And if so, can the bracket be purchased anywhere?

Adam Mccool - Reply

Anyone having issues with the antenna, you can also try plugging the antenna before putting the speaker back. It was easier for me to do it like that. It took me 1hr 30min first time but everything works perfectly. There are two pieces (one of them is the antenna bracket) that the item doesn't bring so make sure to remove it from the original.

Algenis Feliz - Reply

After replacing the charging port, I immediately realized the speaker no longer functions. Soon thereafter, I came to find out calls are very frequently dropped, while talking my voice goes in and out as well as the battery takes much longer to help. Advice much appreciated?

Jordan George - Reply

I just replaced one I had bought on Amazon with the Ifixit replacement. I can pretty much hold 3G now, but get no LTE. Before with the Amazon part I could get LTE but would bounce back to 1X a lot. I have the antenna clip arriving today and will install, hoping this helps but not sure if that clip acts as some sort of ground or not.

Adam Mccool - Reply

I have a problem with my mic being quiet and cutting out on calls. I have replaced the assembly and it seems fine when using voice memos although not as loud as when I try my old iPhone 5 . Any thoughts on what could be causing this low mic volume could it it be software related?

Have tried repositioning the mic several times m making sure it's seated properly etc. Driving me a bit nuts.

Kevin Mackenzie - Reply

great tools, great instructions, great price, everything took an hour and works flawlessly!

Wesley French - Reply

This is the most frustrating thing ever. Where can we get this part that preserves original signal connectivity?? I had the dock connector replaced by a shop, everything works OK except frequent drops to 1x or no service. I can still get LTE but it will switch to 1x without me moving. Airplane mode on and off will temporarily go to LTE. The shop says he has no advice. And of course every time I'm in there it says LTE. About to buy a new phone :-(

Marshall Montgomery - Reply

I had the poor signal issue after using a part bought from Amazon. After a lot of fiddling around, I decided to replace original part and signal was fine again. I then bought a part online from 'replacebase' in the UK, fitted that and all works fine. So my experience was that it was a faulty part rather than anything subtle about how it was fitted.

MartinW - Reply

OK, I spoke too soon, all works fine EXCEPT the battery percentage jumping around (e.g. suddenly going down from 54% to 1% - then on rebooting the phone it came back up as 33%). I have seen this problem before with a bad battery guage, and also with a bad charging IC, but I'm not sure whether a bad lightning port assembly could also cause this? I will have to start replacing things again to track down the problem...

MartinW - Reply

any luck?

good luck! (i hope)


Ok so I wanted to post about how I resolved this issue. I took out the "new" part from the shop and replaced it with a "working pull" from e-bay. The part I put in is an authentic Apple part. Unfortunately you can't buy these parts new anywhere because Apple doesn't sell them. My issue is now resolved! This also fixed the fast draining battery because it isn't constantly searching for signal.

Marshall Montgomery - Reply

Worked perfectly! I didn't remove the screen for this repair and it doesn't seem to have been an issue. One point: reconnecting the antenna I found really difficult; spent the most time trying to get it reattached. Thanks!

john.lidwelldurnin - Reply

So Basically This is identical to an iphone 6 plus, infact identical, except a few steps are in a different order, although those steps that are different can be performed in any order...

DVS - Reply

After replacing this part I had trouble with the phone being stuck in headphone mode even when no headphone was plugged in. The symptom of this is that it won't play music through the speaker, and that phone calls only work in speakerphone mode. Also, when I used a headphone, the balance was off.

The solution was to clean out the headphone port with rubbing alcohol. I used 91% on a Q tip with almost all the cotton pulled off to make it small enough to fit. Once you dip it in alcohol, twirl the remaining cotton between your fingers to tame the strands and take off excess alcohol, then clean the headphone port. It may take a few times. My theory is there may be some film or dust from the factory coating the contacts in there that the alcohol removes?

acrain - Reply

I replaced my headphone and lightning ports for just that reason. No amount of alcohol would clean it. Now I know why. Same problem after replacing the part.

Rocco N April -

Hey, just replaced my lightning connector assembly, and I now notice that the phone indicates it is charging without ever turning on. A couple of other people seem to have run into this problem, but nobody in this thread seems to have a solution. Please help, I cannot afford a new phone.

Brett Anderson - Reply

@zifker hard to say without more details. You might want to try searching through existing iPhone 6 questions for something that matches your problem. If you're really stuck, post your question in more detail in our Answers forum—you'll have a better chance of getting help. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Just finished this and now my ear speaker doesn't work, I have to put it on speaker phone to answer and make calls. How can I fix this?

Chad - Reply

@ washburnbros Most likely answer is a loose connector or a damaged flex cable. Does your front camera work or is that out, too? The front camera and earpiece speaker are both fed by the same cable. Try reseating the connector in this step (making sure to disconnect the battery first). Check to make sure there's no dust/debris or bent pins in the connector socket. Check the attached flex cable to make sure it wasn't damaged. If you still have trouble, drop your post into Answers.

Jeff Suovanen -

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