Introduction

Use this guide to replace the front-facing camera and sensor cable including the front-facing camera, microphone and other sensors.

Note that the earpiece speaker is removed in this guide—be sure to save and transfer the earpiece speaker into your replacement cable assembly when you reassemble.

You can also use this guide to replace the following parts:

Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

When reconnecting be VERY careful not to over tighten. The connectors on the screen that these 3.6mm Pentalobe screws lock with are notorious for breaking off

Blair Tryba - Reply

what do i do if ive managed to tighten them too hard and now they wont come off?

kristian686 -

Before opening the phone, I gently warmed it using a buckwheat heating pad. This made removal of the adhesive strips (steps 20 to 24) easy.

Howard Bales - Reply

Exactly what I did as well, the gently warming made the adhesive removal work like a charm. The heat as well help to lift the screen easily, no need for the prying tools for me to open te phone.

For the adhesive removal just pull it slowly to the bottom of the phone and keep in under tension.

On reassembly, turn on the phone after getting all connectors back in place to verify all is working fine before putting all screws back in their spot.

Maarten Vergauwen -

I put mine back together but mine looks very different than this one. Why is it that when I make a call I cannot hear through the ear piece and have to put it on speaker. Also my screen doesn't go black when my face touches it

Bailey Wilson - Reply

Hey Bailey, which repair were you attempting? Is it possible you have a 6s, or maybe a 6 Plus? You may have better luck with faster troubleshooting if you post in our Answer Forum!

Sam Lionheart -

See its a long time ago you had this issue. You can try to remove the cable from front camera/sensor/earpiece from the motherboard port and gently push it back on. All the problems you relate to is thru the same cable. If this dont solve your problem, check if the earpiece is correctly placed onto the polarity poles, and that the proximity sensor is lying right down into the corresponding socket. If something is blocking the sensor, yeah then the screen wont turn on/off when you put it onto your ear.

Kenneth Hilstan -

You only need 000 Screwdriver for ALL!

Tom Long - Reply

what do i do if all the screws fail to come off and if i don’t have some of the tools like the iSclack

Brandon Kato - Reply

I see in the preamble that when you replace your logic board, you would lose touch id functionality, so my question is what if you have the homebutton and thus the fingerprint reader for the logic board replacement, would touch id work?

socratesmens - Reply

The next three steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 6 that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
  • The next three steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 6 that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down three steps for an alternate method.

  • If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone 6.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

There was only one suction cup in my kit. Why show the need for two if ifixit provides only one?

Lisa Klitses - Reply

Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups. Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, just above (but not covering) the home button.
  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups.

    • Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, just above (but not covering) the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

Add Comment

Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case. The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the display cables.
  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the display cables.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 8.

The iSclack opened the iPhone 6 with little effort. I could have given even less opening pressure than I did. Fantastic tool. Worth the investment.

Tim Dougherty - Reply

It's never mentioned anywhere that with iSclack even if you save the cables, glass easily detach from plastic frame. When you ri-assembly the phone, this will involve a glass not perfectly adherent to the body. In my opinion is better if you help yourself with a spudger to lift frame from rear case when you are using the iSclack.

marco bigoni - Reply

Holy cow this tool made it so much easier than a spudger and didn't damage anything. Totally worth the investment.

Fratelli '85 - Reply

Really need to get one of these. so much easier then the basic type.

Richard W - Reply

If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:
  • If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

    • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the cup is pressed securely onto the screen to get a tight seal.

This is nearly impossible on a screen that is shattered

Erik Madsen - Reply

Try putting a strip of packing tape on the screen. That will make the surface smooth and help keep the suction.

Joanna - Reply

John, your lips move but I can't hear what you're saying. ;-)

TimD -

While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.
  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

  • Using a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while continuing to pull up with the suction cup.

  • There are several clips holding the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

Pulling up on the suction cup helped get me started, but what worked for me was pulling up gently while sliding the plastic prybar gently along the seam towards the top of the phone (on both sides), and it came open without having to put excess pressure on the suction.

lauren carroll - Reply

Same here, just open the gap a little with the suction cup and then use the opening tool on both sides.

Tobias - Reply

Along with the suction cup I used some Command adhesive strips to hold the bottom of the phone to a workbench as they easily pull/stretch away when you need to remove them!

Dion Sosa - Reply

Suction cup pictured here is the older version (with ring). I have one from my previous battery replacement on iPhone 5 and used that instead. The new one (gray with blue handle) kept on popping off. Overall, popping out screen was not as hard as it seems with these instructions, but do proceed with caution.

youmingc - Reply

Dion's idea to use removable adhesive strips was great, even better, use it to attach the iPhone to a clipboard. This will allow for a sort of Lazy Susan function while you work. I also used adhesive strips to attach my iPhone box to the clipboard as well and used that as a back rest (with rubber band) for the screen as pictured in steps below. This allowed me to very comfortably skip steps 13-19 as others have commented.

Adam - Reply

The new suction cup (plastic handle) is not so suctiony. Prepare for this thing to pop off a couple of times when opening the case.

Chet Seidel - Reply

Be very careful because it feels that it holds very tight but with the last pull it can fly away.

Kristaps Grinbergs - Reply

Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup. Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
  • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

  • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

Add Comment

Open the iPhone by swinging the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge. Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge. During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.
  • Open the iPhone by swinging the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

    • Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge.

    • During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.

It's not clear from the instructions but it is shown correctly in the pictures: when the front panel assembly is just open (at a small angle with the rear case) pull the top edge clips out of the rear case to slightly separate the two components, then swing the front panel assembly away from the rear case. I assume not doing so would potentially damage the connecting ribbon and/or the alignment clips. Just a guess...

ethanlust - Reply

Ein Tipp zum Zusammenbau: Das Display ca. in 45 Grad halten und vorsichtig an die obere Kante des Gehäuses drücken, bis es bündig und glatt anliegt.

Dann das Display langsam und vorsichtig anklappen und die Clips von oben nach unten festdrücken.

SAS - Reply

This entire process went smooth. Final step of re-assembly , the assembly does not seat into the framing. The white gasket seats on one side not the the volume button side. Alignment looks good. How much pressure does one apply on the reassembly?

Bruce Fournier - Reply

My problem is the front panel does not want to joint together with the rear panel… it feel like the front is too big but it look perfect but does not clip in place… Help…

Tony Chicoine - Reply

same problem, in the final step, the screen does not fit entirely. it looks like the size is not 100% correct, but 99%… one side of the case stays open…

Andrea Andreoli - Reply

Same thing here, with a new screen it doesn’t fit quite right during re-assembly. It sits just a little bit higher and doesn’t look seated.

Adam Carl - Reply

Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone. In a pinch, an unopened canned beverage works well for this. Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • In a pinch, an unopened canned beverage works well for this.

  • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

A picture is worth a thousand words! This idea at Step 9 is perfect and you can definitely do the entire rest of the battery replacement WITHOUT having to disconnect the display from the rear case. Just leave it secured exactly as shown in this picture and you're good to go. I just completed the repair and the most difficult part was just lining up the new battery connector! Excellent instructions and generally EASY repair because this step was so helpful!

Ryan - Reply

I did the same. Made the work go so much smoother!

dcommins - Reply

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - Reply

I'm going to try it this way, because the odds of damaging the connector during removal seem greater than the risk of ripping the cable, however, I plan to cradle the phone in the "L" of simple, sheet metal bookend, and secure it using blue painter's tape. Seems more stable.

bobcloninger - Reply

If you do this step carefully- (rubber band the front panel, and carefully peel away the battery adhesive) you can SKIP 13 THRU 19!

Larry House - Reply

Deck the Halls
With tools and Fix Kits
Remove the following Phillips screws from the battery connector bracket:
  • Remove the following Phillips screws from the battery connector bracket:

    • One 2.2 mm screw

    • One 3.2 mm screw

#000 needed here

David Pobuda - Reply

These screws require a Phillips #000 not Phillips #00 bit.

David Powell - Reply

How do you know that? Just wondering :)

Didier Daniel -

I replace the antenna in the upper left-hand corner an in the bottom middle with the lightning connector because After disassemble it completely i lose my ability to have Cellular. After i replace both antennas i can find i nevertheless have cellular. anybody an idea ?

kupies2011 - Reply

@davidsapowell @David+Pobuda - I've submitted an update per your comments. Thanks for the guidance!

Nate Schley - Reply

With the phillips screwdriver included in the repair kit I cannot unscrew any of the interior screws because it is not the right size even though according to these comments all of the screws are #000 and on the product listing it says that the screwdriver I got is #000. Any suggestions?

Wilson Styres - Reply

Upon reassembly I found the Red 2.2 mm screw won't seat. Is it possible it sheared off? The Orange 3.2 is solid in both holes but 2.2 doesn't securely fit in either.. Should I just leave off the 2.2?

smcgreg - Reply

My phone was missing this screw also!

Gail Starr -

Duh, had the cover on the wrong way. Switched it around and the screw fit. (:

smcgreg - Reply

When I insert the 3.2 mm screw... The phone shuts down, very weird because am not seeing what could cause this short...

Juan Monge - Reply

I’m having the same issue. Thinking about just leaving that screw out. Did you ever get your’s working?

Cavell Blood -

Using the Phillips 000 screwdriver included in the kit, I am able to remove the 3.2 mm screw, but not the 2.2 mm one.

Dan Solovay - Reply

None of the screwdriver heads in this kit are big enough for these screws!!! I now have an open iphone and i have to go to the store to buy a different screwdriver..I do not recommend this

Elaine Eason - Reply

I was unable to unscrew the 2.2mm screw with the provided screwdriver. I was able to unscrew the 3.2mm screw but not the 2.2mm

Jameison Martin - Reply

I'm stuck in the same boat here. The one screw came out no problem but the second isn't catching at all.

Brian Adams - Reply

Stuck with Jameison and Brian here... 2.2mm won't catch with all three provided screwdrivers.

Matthijs Rog - Reply

Agreed, the screwheads included in this kit didn’t work for me either. Fortunately my own toolbox has an appropriate screwdriver…. Seeing as how we are paying for this kit so we don’t need to purchase extra tools, iFixit should really include screwheads that actually work!

Priscilla Cheng - Reply

When putting everything back together, I took care of steps 10-12 (or, more accurately 12-10) after reinserting the SIM (so between steps 20 & 19). It was easier to do before dealing with reconnecting the screen.

dhcohen67 - Reply

why do i buy a kit from you guys but you don’t provide the necessary tools for unscrewing

i dont have any screwdrivers at home the 2.2mm simply wont come off its ridiculous now i just have an open phone

Michael Amara - Reply

bv.gjg jhv /jhv

Michael Amara - Reply

Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.
  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Why in the YouTube video do you skip removing the battery connector

mjcoughlin70 - Reply

Where to buy this bracket?

syidan - Reply

One of the screws is longer than the other, use it for the higher inside hole.

Bobby Slone - Reply

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Take care to only pry up on the battery connector, and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

I skipped steps 13-19 and just left the front panel rubber banded while I removed the battery. I just made sure to be careful while removing the adhesive strips so as not to move around the body of the phone too much. Skipping the steps made the whole process much faster and easier.

Tonima Chaudhury - Reply

I wish I had done that.

Gail Starr -

Thanks for this awesome tip. Made the replacement go much smoother - saved me from removing all those other screws. I also recommend watching the ifixit battery adhesive strip video before proceeding with step 21.

Andy Milne -

Me too, no need to detach the screen (when you take care),

Tom Long -

In trying to replace my antenna flex cable, I attempted to skip steps 13-19 but eventually gave up around step 31/32 as I simply didn’t have the access I needed - the space was just too cramped with the screen still attached and I was afraid I would break something. If you’re a novice, don’t have good lighting and a magnifying glass, etc. you may just want to go ahead and perform 13-19. (Yes it will take extra time of course.)

Perrin Haley -

I also skipped steps 13-19 after reading the first comment.

youmingc - Reply

I skipped those steps too and was successful. Thanks for this tip!

jaksbackpack - Reply

Can disconnecting the battery connector while power is on ruin the backlight? Or can disconnecting the power connector at a different stage ruin the back light?

mitch Toler - Reply

You should power down the phone before disconnecting the battery. That said, the backlight should be fine. A blown backlight circuit is most commonly caused by disconnecting the display when the battery is still connected.

Jeff Suovanen -

I did open the lcd without disconnecting the battery and my lcd wouldn't working

Reza I. Permana -

Thanks for that tip Tonima! This is another confirmation that skipping steps 13-19 worked out great!

As an extra measure, in addition to leaving the front panel rubber banded in it's open, vertical position (I secured mine to a can of beans) and being very careful and controlled when removing the adhesive strips; before using the suction cup to separate the front panel from the rear case, I had secured the back side of the rear case to my working surface (kitchen table) with a strip of folded over duct tape (creating double sided tape). Such might not have been necessary as I held the rear case with one hand while removing the adhesive strips with the other, though it just felt safer having the rear case (as well as the front panel) well secured in place to help assure that I didn't accidentally cause any damage to those very fragile looking cables that were left connected, by any possible movements of either of the iPhone's halfs during the pulling to remove the adhesive strips.

Russ Levey - Reply

It happened to me, by prying the battery connector with another tool I broke part of the socket off the board. However, by placing it exactly back in place the connector could be placed correctly and it works. Lucky.

Udo Schuehle - Reply

I'd like a little more explanation on how to re-attach the battery connector. But in the end I lined it up and pressed gently down till it snapped into place.

Garret Gray - Reply

I skipped the steps removing the screen only because I didn't feel confident at all doing this. For someone who is used to electronics I would really suggest removing it because I imagine the whole process would've been easier. If there's a next time, perhaps I'll do that.

Garret Gray - Reply

The suggestions that recommend skipping step 13-19 apply to some other repair. We replaced the display, and to do so, steps 13-19 are, of course, necessary.

Gabriel Zachmann - Reply

When replacing the battery you should prepare the cable to sit in exactly as you see it in the picture. I had mine all the way back in (with sticky strips) and had to find a way to fit the cable in with the weird way it bends. Dry fit the battery with cable in place - lesson learned.

Chet Seidel - Reply

Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:
  • Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    • One 3.1 mm screw

  • Incorrect placement of these screws during reassembly will cause permanent damage to your iPhone's logic board.

Be careful when replacing the screws, not to accidentally put the 1.7mm screw into the center hole, where the 1.2 screw belongs. This can cause "Long Screw" damage, and render your phone unusable.

damianodessgillett - Reply

I don't have the magnetic pad but use duct tape face up in a tray. I write the step number and color of the screw on the sticky surface and let the screw stand heads up on the goo. The screw is presented for the driver when reassembling.

griffn - Reply

Can't stress enough how important it is not to mix up these screws! Using the 1.7mm screw for the lower left fixing will cause "long screw damage" and kill the backlight on the phone. I believe @damianodessgillett made the same point. Wish we could display a small warning message here to be extra careful for future fixers!

kev - Reply

I use a screw ID technique similar to griffn's; I print out the PDF version of the guide, then Scotch-tape each screw type to the guide at the step where the screw was removed. The screws are then distinguished by size and type at the point where they need to be reinstalled.

adlerpe - Reply

i am trying but only could open 2 screws and cannot open the rest of them, can you help me??

girlsrock742 - Reply

@girlsrock742 - I'm new here, but from what I've seen, questions like yours don't get answered. I have 2 suggestions:

# Be more specific about what your issue is.

# Make sure you're using the right screwdriver. (Get a magnifying glass & make sure the screwdriver fits nicely in the screwhead.) This guide is included in a guide I'm looking at, and my guide has a comment that #000 phillips is required for the battery connector bracket above, not #00 as documented. (That comment did not convey to this guide....)

Good luck!

Nate Schley - Reply

Thanks to @griffn & @adlerpe! I've updated the tools list to include the magnetic pad, and -- for us infrequent fixers -- I made a note in the intro text to describe the sort of thing you two noted here in place of the mag pad.

Also, to @damianodessgillett & @kev - I've submitted an update to the instructions to add the caution you recommend to the step. Hopefully others will avoid the pain of the Long Screw damage.

Nate Schley - Reply

It's possible to damage only a slot of flex cable ? I've opened my iPhone 6 but now front camera, speaker and the proximity sensor are not working. I've bought a new flex cabe to test it, but I have to be sure about that.

cruz.giovanni - Reply

I'm so worried I'm going insert the wrong screw. Does anyone have any suggestions to knowing how to properly tell the size of each screw? I bought a screw set and a magnetic pad but still have the same issue. Not knowing the correct placement of each screw. I'd definitely appreciate any help.

Patric - Reply

Hi Patric! We use a set of calipers to measure our screws, failing that you could use a very fine ruler. If you don't have any kind of measuring equipment, line the screws up on the magnetic mat and sort them by size there. Ideally you only have screws from this step! If you are trying to determine the size of all the screws in this guide, it's probably best to get a real ruler/caliper for the fine distinctions.

Sam Lionheart -

Do you have to remove the display to replace the battery?

Michael Aguilera - Reply

It's not absolutely necessary to remove the display, I kept my display propped up throughout the operation. Removal of the display doesn't seem to offer any particular benefit, unless you have problems with the adhesive strips.

Adam - Reply

Hi. I messed up with the screws in the cover guard sheet for the display ribbon and my iPhone 6 plus isn't turning on. Does that mean the logic board is dead or the battery ? Should I throw the phone in the garbage can ?

nzf - Reply

I can confirm it's not necessary to remove anything other than battery bracket. If you support the screen against something as in the picture, just make sure you hold the iPhone absolutely still with one hand while pulling out the adhesive strips with the other. I also used a small piece of tape to hold the screen in place against the box while I worked.

I am now a very happy customer and am looking forward to another few years life from my awesome iPhone 6!

Matt Whiteley - Reply

There is no need to do this step. No need to remove these 5 screws. Just make sure the screen is propped up against something strong and this step is unnecessary for the proper removal and re-insertion of battery.

arunhn - Reply

I left the front panel connected and it was much quicker. But, if you have to wrestle with the battery, it is much safer with the front panel removed. If you have worked on a few phone before, I'd try removing the battery with the front panel connected. If the battery is giving you problems(like if you tear the strips and have to heat the backside), you can always come back to this step.

Joel Horie - Reply

I strongly recommend you leave the display connectors alone if you can. My battery came out without a fight, but I found the display connectors to be almost tragically delicate, and I had white lines in the display when I booted it. During the subsequent attempts to remedy that situation, things went down hill and now I'm waiting for an entirely new display to try to rescue the phone from repair oblivion.

kevin hekman - Reply

I also skipped all of the screen-removal steps and had nary a problem. Just rubber band the screen around whatever it is propped against and I believe you'll be fine.

Billy Bob Baler - Reply

Hello! I put the screws on in the wrong order and I believe my backlight is dead, iTunes still recognizes my phone when I plug it in, but the screen is blank. Is it possible to replace the logic board or is the phone useless forever?

Tanya Lyn Willard - Reply

You probably connected the cables wrong, try doing this step again and carefully correct your cables.

June Beltran -

Remove each screw, tape it to a piece of letter paper, mark what spot it came out of. red, yellow, orange and the 3 reds. This way you can not possibly put them back in the wrong spots.

smahar -

I totally recommend doing this step first before removing the battery connector bracket, it will be much easier and comfortable with the screen out of the way.

Also I recommend drawing the bracket on a piece of paper and place the screws on top of the respective position on the drawing, this way you won't be confused when putting them back.

June Beltran - Reply

I accidentally lost a 1.2mm screw while doing a screen replacement. Will this make the phone malfunction in anyway after I close it back up or its fine?

Walter White - Reply

DO NOT DO THIS STEP. It is totally unnecessary to remove the connectors, and they are a really big pain to put back in, and there is risk of damaging them, and it adds a lot of time to the process of replacing the battery. Just securely prop up the front panel, and then if you gently heat the back of the phone when removing the adhesive strips, the battery comes off easily. I could have saved myself about 2 hours and a lot of frustration if I had just left these connectors in. I wish the instructions here would just include this step (connector removal) ONLY IF the battery doesn't come out easily.

J Marr - Reply

Exactly, just like J, Marr indicates, this step is not necessary. Just make sure you're careful to not move the phone too much, otherwise you can damage the film connectors. Other than that I even heated my phone to remove the adhesive, and thank God, nothing bad happened to it.

Mc Floyd -

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - Reply

How can't you do step 33 if you don't do 13-19? iPhone 6.

predylindsay - Reply

I'm missing something here, I want to swap out the screen. How does one skip steps 13-19 if wanting to remove the screen?

BW Lee - Reply

Any tips for removing the 1.2 mm screws? Mine won't budge at all with the PH000 and I'm afraid I'm stripping the screws.

MClare - Reply

I had to use the larger bit for ALL of the screws as the small one was too narrow at the tip to actually grab anything. It worked but made it a bit more difficult.

Heather Best - Reply

Is it really necessary to remove the front panel at all, can't you just ask a friend to hold it in an upright position while you work on the battery?

Peter - Reply

I also skipped steps 13 - 19. Just be very careful not to apply to much stress to the connectors in between the screen and the base. For me I also used another box to keep the base from sliding around while removing the battery.

Patrick Reed - Reply

You cannot skip these steps, of course, when you want to replace the display (which was the kind of repair we did).

When putting the little connectors in place again afterwards, I can recommend to hold the connectors to the display using a little rubber band. That way, they don’t get in the way when you put them in place one by one.

Gabriel Zachmann - Reply

You SHOULD do the steps of removing the display. I have done battery replacements on several dozen phones. Of the ones I did NOT remove the cables, 2 of them had issues directly related to components related to these cables (front facing camera, earpiece speaker, etc.). Although tedious, I recommend removing these connectors to prevent any short circuit when reconnecting the new battery.

ACMT - 4 years.

jonbessom - Reply

I skipped this step and just affixed the screen to the Iphone box with a rubber band during replacement. I decided to take this risk to prevent some of the other issues that have been discussed when removing the screen. I understand it is risky because if you slip or need to use any significant force to remove the battery, disaster awaits. On my repair, it worked out fine and I ensured that I took my time and kept the bottom of the phone held to the worksurface.

Michael Kirkpatrick - Reply

There are only 2 screws when i opened mine.The centre one and the left top corner one..Is it okay to use it like that..Please help

Naresh Annepu - Reply

If you can try to leave your display how it is. I removed it and it ended with white stripes and touchscreen not working. After a while it touch started to work and stripes went away. I think it was static electricity.

Kristaps Grinbergs - Reply

Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.
  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

Add Comment

In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.
  • In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets on the logic board.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

I can not get these electrical connections to reconnect. If there is some secret to this it should be noted. I now have a phone all taken apart and can not get it back together. It makes no sense to only give directions to take a phone apart and not to put it back together.

douglas hughes - Reply

Use sideways bright light and peek underneath as you mate the contacts to align properly. Press very gently and evenly. Others have written that too much pressure in the center may warp the contact.

mahoffman - Reply

I'm having the same problem as above...really upset and frustrated at this point. :( 2/4 connectors (top and right) will 'click' just fine...the other two (bottom two) for the life of me wont connect!!!! :( any suggestions? i feel like i have tried everything. Sucks that is only thing stopping me screen from being repaired....

alyssaavaldezz - Reply

Hi alyssa. Were you able to connect the cables? I am having the same problem

Veronica del Rio -

regarding cable connects - if two of the ribbon cables are not properly overlapped around each other, then it will appear as if cable #2 will need to plug into the closest jack, which is actually for cable#3. Look at the two connectors carefully - they are opposite gender and can't be interchanged.

David Panak - Reply

This is good advice, and usually the problem people experience here. There is a very specific way the ribbon cables are layered, and if not correct when reassembled, the reach of the cables will cause you to assume which cable goes where and to try to insert the wrong plugs into the wrong sockets. Please do not try to force them. If they don't snap in easily, examine them closely, and you'll see the plugs and sockets are slightly different sizes, with one wider than the other. Better to take care to note how the cables layer during disassembly, or perhaps mark them to avoid this frustration on reassembly.

gybeho -

Check order of cables. From screen replacement.

lee moran - Reply

my problem is that the connectors are different the screen i replaced it with the connectors were longer than the broken screen even though there the exact same type of screen

andrew midgett - Reply

Probably just have the cables out of order. Check the posts above.

gybeho - Reply

"gybeho" Ok, but it's impossible to install flex cables out of order. Each one has diferent sizes of docking...

cruz.giovanni - Reply

it is very possible to install flex cables out of order. to most people working on their first screen replacement they do not have the experience to notice that their flex cable connection is different than the dock connection. this causes them to press harder and force the connection into the dock, ruining the connections, if they do not think the they have the cables out of order

Dakota Navarrete - Reply

I'm with Andrew Midgett. The connectors are just plain different in size and orientation. My phone matches what's shown in the picture above. You can see an example of the replacement part if you search Amazon for "Sanka LCD Touch Screen Digitizer Frame Assembly Full Set Screen Replacement for iPhone 6". And Sanka isn't the only iPhone 6 replacement that looks like that, so no hating on that manufacturer here.

Does this mean that some iPhone 6 phones have one set of connectors and some have a different set? FWIW, the model on the back of my phone says A1549.

PG McLaughlin - Reply

Update: Searching for iPhone 6S instead of 6 on Amazon, I see lots of replacement screens with connectors that look a lot more like what I have and what's shown in the picture above. (One connector has a horizontal orientation, the other is vertical. I can't be sure whether the pins or dimensions match otherwise.) Any wisdom here?

PG McLaughlin - Reply

Had the same problem with the correct layering of cable harnesses. Perhaps an additional photo showing the correct layering would be helpful for 1st timers?

William Breen - Reply

+1 for a photo showing the correct layering and routing of cables. I accidentally routed the home button ribbon above the digitizer ribbon and beneath the power and backlight ribbons. The uneven pressure it put on the digitizer connector after tightening the plate caused my digitizer to not recognize touching the display or made touches appear off center.

drpotter -

For everybody who thinks they can skip these steps I commend you. No way I would have been able to get my battery out - two broken strips - without removing the screen. Re-inserting these cables was not really difficult - once the first one is back in place the rest follow quickly.

Chet Seidel - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector.

Muy buenas....una pregunta tecnica...si el botón falla o no está bien conectado...al conectar este conector ¿ se apagaría el teléfono?. Repare mi iphone y al conectarlo se me apaga el movil, sin embargo si no lo enchufo el movil enciende perfectamente.

Gracias.

Berta fernandez - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display data cable connector. When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display data cable connector.

  • When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.

you missed the name of the second connctor. there are four total

copykatt - Reply

My screen is completely black and i can see the lights turning on when i press the home or lock button. Maybe this cable got damaged ?

Gabriel Hirata - Reply

Perhaps you bought a faulty screen. Often this is the case when it shows completely black.

William Mullan - Reply

When I was preforming this step, while reassembling, I had to connect the digitizer cable four times. On the last time, before screwing the Front Panel Assembly Cable Bracket on, I reconnected the battery connector and turned my phone on (ensuring that I was careful not to damage any cables!) to ensure that all cables were connected correctly and that the screen was fully functional.

Christopher - Reply

NO NO NO ! i am a professional iphone repairman and i strongly recommend against using ANY tool to disconnect the flex connectors if u slip or use to much force you will damage the connector and may cause permanent damage to the phones logic board rendering it completely UNrepairable! Instead gently use the edge of your fingernail and pry up and the connectors will usually come off with very little effort .

taylor sparks - Reply

Fingernails work great as well! However, there's nothing wrong with using a tool, as long as you exercise a little caution. If you've ever seen one of Apple's iPhone service manuals, you'll note that they use the exact same tool as iFixit (Apple calls it a "black stick" and iFixit dubs it a "spudger.")

Jeff Suovanen -

I'm pretty sure ifixit are pros, I used them 4 times to fix phones and no problems with using tools for flex cables.

Dave - Reply

If you still have white lines after you've tried reconnecting the connectors and power cycling. Just do a hard reset a few more times, let the phone stay on and wait a while. As long as it's not damaged, the lines will fade over the next hour or so. Your phone will be as good as new.

grjos - Reply

If my screen is giving me white lines and occasional ghost clicks on the right side does anyone know if it’s possibly only a faulty cable vs needing a full screen swap? I’d rather not waste a perfectly good screen.

Andrew Hill - Reply

what if my phone wont turn back on even after following all these steps carefully . i even put the old screen back on and it wont turn on still???

Daniel Murcia - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector. When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

  • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Reassembly was harder than other i devices I have worked on. A bench light from the side helped a lot with the first cable, the digitizer. The others went a bit better in this crowded space. I had screen lines when testing it out before closing the top, so reinstalled all four connectors here with the aid of a side light and happily, that worked!

griffn - Reply

i crossed over the first two cables initially, when re-assembled; make sure by the WIDTH that you are trying to connect them in the right order.

awr - Reply

How many times can i peel these connections without braking the connection between screen and logic borad

falken1337 - Reply

Is this the breaking down process for the Verizon version of the iPhone 6s? I know the flex cables were different for other versions and with my last iPhone I made the mistake of ordering one that had completely different cable places. Someone please send me a link to one that fits the Verizon 4.7 display!!!

Bailey Duncan - Reply

This break down isn't for a 6S. It is for a plain 6 (no S). Yes there is some differences because of the 3D touch feature.

Keith Mullins - Reply

So what is the fix if there is digitizer damage? Replacing the screen?

After reinstallation, I am encountering issues with an area of the screen that is not responding to touch. Everything else works fine.

Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed?

Jonathan Rivera - Reply

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to Place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

// Simon

Simon Tengstrand -

I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector).

Simon Tengstrand -

I had the most issues when reassembling with this step. The plastic tool is a fail in my experience since not enough pressure could be applied using it. I just ended up using my finger and that worked 10Xs better. My advice, watch a few YouTube videos of people reconnecting the connectors and you'll be fine.

grjos - Reply

I have dis-connected and reconnected several times with the white line appearing each time. The screen however seems to be responsive. I did lose a 1.2 mm screw. Is it the missing screw or did I damage the digitizer connection?

Charlotte - Reply

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

I had three screws left when I did some repairs on my iphone 4 and that didn't matter. It worked like a charm :)

// Simon

Simon Tengstrand -

I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector)

Simon Tengstrand -

Be especially careful in this step or your iPhone won’t respond to your touch after reassembling.

Ume Nishikino - Reply

My home screen button is not working after reassembly, not only the Touch ID but the actual button doesn't work. I have iPhone 6S . How can I fix this? Thanks

Sissy -

Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.
  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Is it not possible to start here? Just leave the screen assembly attached and only replace the home button?

Joeri Boersen - Reply

Please don’t do that. You will break your cables almost assuredly if you leave it attached to your phone trust me

Curtis Jordan Lenox - Reply

Remove the following Phillips screws from the earpiece speaker/front-facing camera bracket:
  • Remove the following Phillips screws from the earpiece speaker/front-facing camera bracket:

    • One 2.3 mm screw

    • One 3.0 mm screw

    • One 2.2 mm screw

Again, you need a #000

Tobias - Reply

Can changing the earpiece disable the Touch ID?

Ricardo Ramirez-Mendoza - Reply

I read somewhere that if I change the earphone speaker. It will disable the Touch ID once I put the phone back together. Do I have to sacrifice one of these if I want my earphone speaker to work?

Ricardo Ramirez-Mendoza - Reply

The earpiece speaker itself has nothing to do with Touch ID; a correctly performed repair will leave Touch ID perfectly intact. Touch ID will only be disabled if you damage the home button hardware or the ribbon cable that connects it to the logic board. That cable runs from the home button, behind the display shield, and up to the top of the phone near the earpiece speaker. So yes, if you are unfortunate/careless enough to damage it in the process of replacing your earpiece speaker, that could disable Touch ID, although Touch ID is no different from any other component in that respect! ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

Remove the earpiece speaker/front-facing camera bracket from the front panel. Remove the earpiece speaker/front-facing camera bracket from the front panel.
  • Remove the earpiece speaker/front-facing camera bracket from the front panel.

Be sure that the replacement part has a little black squared sponge facing the camera. I have purchased some replacement displays in the past (assembled with front camera) and some of them didn't had that sponge. The result is a front camera not pushed onto the display glass and this will cause backlight leaks into the front camera.

ferbarragan88 - Reply

Lift the front-facing camera out of its recess in the front panel. Lift the front-facing camera out of its recess in the front panel.
  • Lift the front-facing camera out of its recess in the front panel.

its better to slightly heat the display from front in order to loseen the adhesive which is glued with the strip to display

vara prasad - Reply

Be sure to remove the plastic bracket (clear piece) that holds the camera in place from the old screen and add it to your new screen, or else your camera won't seat the right way against the screen and you'll have to take everything apart to place it in.

marcus derkson - Reply

Holding the front-facing camera out of the way, remove the earpiece speaker from the front panel. Be careful not to touch any of the contacts on the speaker or the cable, oils can damage them and interrupt the connection.
  • Holding the front-facing camera out of the way, remove the earpiece speaker from the front panel.

    • Be careful not to touch any of the contacts on the speaker or the cable, oils can damage them and interrupt the connection.

Like me, you may have accidentally touched the speaker, springs or 4 gold contacts on the cable. I used the tweezers to remove the speaker but it magnetically got stuck to the tweezers so I removed it with my fingers and accidentally touched the contacts. Use your own judgement, but I've had good results using a tiny amount of 70% isopropyl alcohol on a Q-tip and cleaning these 4 gold contacts and the springs on the speaker piece. Beats replacing the speaker for $25. Perhaps the #iFixitTeam can lend some advice on this step, in addition to the warning about not touching it. :-)

Brian Hernandez - Reply

Man, great guide getting to the speaker, but I have to replace the mesh as well. Not sure why we couldn't just include that in the guide since we already went this far! Doesn't seem to be anything too good on google results for this last step either... bah!

TheFranko NoneYa - Reply

I have had problems with two phones after replacing a screen. The sensor that turns off screen when talking does not turn off screen. May this be because i touched this contacts?

Ronny - Reply

That's a problem with your proximity sensor (tiny thing with 2 'eyes'), which is on the same flex cable as the front camera.

Didier Daniel -

Hi Ronny, im having the same problem. have you found a solution for it? if u have, please help me out

Fabius Pradeep -

Make sure the screen that protects the speaker is free of ear wax. It can be stopped up with ear wax and limit the output of the earpiece speaker. About 50% of the ones I have come across this was the cause of low earpiece volume. Use a small nylon hobby paint brush dipped in 91% rubbing alcohol to clean it.

scottingram - Reply

Keeping the front-facing camera out of the way, use the point of a spudger to push the ambient-light sensor up out of its recess in the front panel. Keeping the front-facing camera out of the way, use the point of a spudger to push the ambient-light sensor up out of its recess in the front panel.
  • Keeping the front-facing camera out of the way, use the point of a spudger to push the ambient-light sensor up out of its recess in the front panel.

i have a question.

my homebutton cable was broken. so i bought front plate.

and i have original home button too.

so, if i change broken plate and new plate, can i using touch id??

kjh657 - Reply

You should actually be commenting in a home button step (such as 30), so you get the right visibility. But if by front plate you mean the display (digitizer, lcd, and front glass) then no, this will NOT fix touch id problems. If the problem is damage to the home button out it's attached cable you are out of luck, as those are unique to each iPhone. However if the ribbon cable (the one attached to the large shield) is damaged, then that is replaceable. A new lcd shield should come with the home button ribbon attached, or you can buy the ribbon separately and just replace that. The shield is much easier to replace and about the same cost.

Charlie Yarbrough -

When replacing, make sure the proximity sensor is replaced correctly and seated fully inside the plastic bracket. Not doing so can cause loss of functionality in the sensor preventing the lcd from turning off when it's supposed to during calls etc.

Charlie Yarbrough - Reply

Could you explain this any further? I recently replaced this because of a bad microphone and now the proximity sensor isn't working. I transferred the plastic/rubber gasket/bracket thingy over. I've disassembled and reassembled the thing 3 times to make sure the sensor is properly seated, no luck. The ambient light sensor for auto brightness works just fine, which I think is actually the one with the plastic part, unless I'm missing something?

Is it possible the new cable assembly just has a bad sensor?

Bennet Pullen -

I confirm what you say. Bought a phone with proximity sensor not working. Turns out it didn't have the plastic bracket where you put the sensor in.. :)

Didier Daniel -

When reassembling, ensure that the plastic bracket for the proximity sensor is removed from your old cable assembly and that you put it with the new cable. I found that if you put the plastic bracket in the recess in the front panel first to ensure that you get it in correctly.

Christopher - Reply

It is crucial that you make sure that the little black plastic bracket around the ambient light sensor is removed with it when lifting it out of the recess. It is very easy to not notice that it stayed in the recess and really difficult to make out any difference between the removed cable and the replacement cable. It took me a few tries to realize that the bracket was still in place and was why I couldn’t seat the replacement cable properly.

dhcohen67 - Reply

Fold the front-facing camera and sensor cable up to allow access to the microphone. Fold the front-facing camera and sensor cable up to allow access to the microphone.
  • Fold the front-facing camera and sensor cable up to allow access to the microphone.

When I was replacing my cable, I had part of the old cable stay in the in the front panel and had to remove it before I could put my new cable in during this step.

Christopher - Reply

Carefully pry the microphone end of the sensor cable off of the adhesive holding it to the front panel. Carefully pry the microphone end of the sensor cable off of the adhesive holding it to the front panel.
  • Carefully pry the microphone end of the sensor cable off of the adhesive holding it to the front panel.

oddly enough my replacement screen didn't come with the earpiece rubber or front-facing camera clear "recess" pieces. Prying them off my old screen was tedious and in the end I didn't have new adhesive to apply. What would you guys recommend?

Brian Hernandez - Reply

I had to remove it completely and then apply some glue, very tiny just to keep it in place. However, my replacement part does come with an adhesive for the microphone.

azriaris1 -

Just pry gently with a small screwdriver in the upper right corner and the glue will drop

Kvalvik69 - Reply

My replacement part had a clear plastic that you need to remove so the microphone will stick. It is very thin so I pulled out the whole rubber part a few times before being able just to remove the clear plastic that shields the glue (part bought from ifixit.com)

Christian van der Leeden - Reply

Remove the front-facing camera and sensor cable from the front panel.
  • Remove the front-facing camera and sensor cable from the front panel.

Before installing the new cable you might need to do the following. I just did this installation last night and I had to do these things. 1) There is a clear plastic piece that goes around the sensor. It might have stayed in the phone face or it might have come out. If it came out it needs to be installed around the sensor. 2) There definitely will be a little black plastic cover over the notification LED. That needs to be taken off the old cable and put on the new cable and in the right direction. 3) On my new cable there were 2 copper colored protectors that needed to be removed before installing the new cable. Remove those. 4) The cable to the front facing camera is too long. Notice where the excess cable was bunched up on the old cable. This was a difficult fix. The parts are so small. Assembling the area around the speaker is difficult. There are multiple places where the cables slip over little plastic bumps. Knowing about those little plastic points will help.

Kent - Reply

My phone isnt powering on after changing screen. Proximity sensor is broken could this be why?

kyler - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

230 other people completed this guide.

Sam Lionheart

Member since: 10/18/2012

287,228 Reputation

1,336 Guides authored

Team

iFixit Member of iFixit

Community

125 Members

4,447 Guides authored

39 Comments

Perfect instructions, only confusion was where the sensor cable went. Would like a clear picture of sensor cable removed, as not to confuse viewer that the sensor cable is attached to the camera piece

Jamie Reigert - Reply

I accidentally ordered the cable for the 6S plus. Would it still function or are they pinned differently?

Dave Pratt - Reply

I did same mistake on a iphone 6 , i ordered the i6S front camera flex, it worked and im starting to believe it improved my camera ! On my iphone 6

It looks better than before!!

Jorge Fuentes -

We popped a 6s cable into an iPhone 6 to test. Everything fits and the camera does indeed work, although there is no improvement in resolution—the iPhone 6 doesn't seem able to use the extra pixels. We had mixed results with the other components on the cable assembly—the proximity sensor worked, but the ambient light sensor did not. We didn't test the microphone. Your mileage may vary, but I would recommend getting the correct part to avoid any unnecessary headaches. Cheers!

Jeff Suovanen -

Hey thinking to install iphone6s or iphone7 front camera on my old iphone6 is it possible or they are differently designed conponents

Which one will work ???? Plz help

Slmanpro -

Well I just attempted this and now my phone won't boot up. Getting red screen and restarting during boot, then a dimmer apple logo indefinitely. Any idea what happened??? I was trying to replace the front camera cable because it stopped working; I found it torn (the phone previously had a screen repair done).

I'm afraid I took a phone with a slightly annoying problem and turned it into a paperweight..

Thanks,

-Mike

Mike Sassone - Reply

Best advise is to disassemble and reassemble. probably just a screen contact unless you ripped a ribbon. never a paper weight. just a learning experience

Joseph Gans -

Did you resolve this by chance? I'm on my second new replacement and I get the same red screen and crash trying to boot. Thinking they must be sending me replacement parts that have been blocked by apple. Old cable works fine except the proximity sensor.

jasonalmont -

I had the same issue, solution please

Jason Auw -

Totally stuck the landing! Thanks for the great guide. One thing. Possible to use more colors in color coding screws? Before I started, I had read through the guide, but presumed I only had 3 different types of screws, when in reality, red and orange change throughout in terms of the length of the screws.

davidvincentiannelli - Reply

Unfortunately there aren't enough colors available to do it that way. :) The colors reset on each new step. So within a step, "red" screws should all be interchangeable—but once you move on to the next step, you have to assume they'll be different. That's part of the reason for providing screw lengths, so that you can still sort them out if they accidentally get mixed up.

Jeff Suovanen -

Lost the one 1.7mm screw involved in step 13, is it absolutely necessary and if so where can I get them?

George - Reply

not necessary

krishan -

Well, if you're phone drops and a cable comes loose, you'll have to open it again. Dust might also enter this way. Rainbow marks / pressure marks might be another problem.

For a dollar or so you can order new screws ;)

Didier Daniel -

can someone pls help me to fix the front microphone of my iphone 6plus? ok, so heres what happened, we actually change the screen it was damaged, aftr replacing the screen, everything has been perfect again! camera is working, sensor is working, except whenever im video chatting using front cam, or even recordng video using front cam, i cant hear my voice. even siri is not working or calls using spker phone. ive searched that this a a possible problem on my front microphone and i dont actually have an idea of how to fix this problem! ive even placed the orgnak front assembly on it inthought that this could solve the issue. but it didnt work. pls help!!

dante agnote - Reply

i have used my complete iphone6 folder in other iphone6 folder now take back folder in my previous iphone6 but touch id is not working.

kindly help me out please.

krishan - Reply

As usual, the best guides. I also love the tools, they are the ticket and using the magnetic white board to keep track of the screws is essential.

Tommy - Reply

This repair was my first time doing anything kind of repair on electronics before. The instructions, comments and pictures really helped out. I had some difficulty on step 17 for reassembly but with the instructions and everyone's comments I was able to get my phone back together and working fully again!! Thanks for this guide. I tools that I used were the Pro Tech Toolkit + Magnetic Project Mat, the iSclack, and the Anti-Static Project Tray (this tray was a lifesaver on keeping the screws together by size and step!).

Christopher - Reply

Perfect Tutorial! My Siri was broken. After I have changed the Sensor Cable (inkl. Mic) everything is working great again ;). Costs 7€ for the part and 3€ for the tools instead of 79€ at my local repair store.

SideEffect - Reply

How did you manage to set the light/proximity sensor in its right place? I've reopened my phone 3 times, but it's still not working. Everything else, including auto-brightness works fine; it just doesn't shuts off the screen and activate the front speaker when in calls and phone near my ear :/

Marco Tuzzi -

What causes the boot loop after replacing the front camera flex? If I unplug it it works fine. New part boinked?

bryan092785 - Reply

Maybe some dust is inside the connector and prevents it from correctly fitting. Or you may have bent the cable too much and now it is damaged. Or, as you say, the replacement was broken from the start :/

Marco Tuzzi -

Does this change the quality of the picture

QuentaviouS - Reply

Nope, the quality should be exactly the same as when your camera was new, provided you bought a good replacement part.

Jeff Suovanen -

first info I am mechanic not a grammar graduate.

quick comment for those that may have a issue with front camera working. i did the screen swap on my iphone6+ everything went flawless as far as the swap went. but for some reason my front camera would not work. my flash light and camera worked. i did all the resets and restarts and stuff like that. felt like i had a hardware issue, after i swapped my front camera from the oem broken screen, it worked so just a heads up if some have an issue.

raul uribe - Reply

Very good guide. The front glass opened easier than i thought, though it was changed and reassembled in a store and closed not so tightly. Cahnging the earpiece needed some accurance and was important not to touch bare fingers to sensitive parts. Rear camera metal hub won't come out in one piece, if you change rear camera glass. And that glass wont come without braking that glass completey. In my case i didnt want to wait that metal part but i put the camera back without it, just with black square rubber. Works ok. All works okay.

Teemu Laulajainen - Reply

Got a problem, my camera sometimes works and sometimes doesnt. When i put pressure from the outside to the top of the phone, it comes and goes. What do you think is wrong?

Vedat Parc - Reply

Where do you apply force? Where the camera is or more towards the upper right side of the phone? In the first case, you may have a defective sensor cable, maybe the camera is not correctly soldered on the strip wire; in the second case, the cable sensor may not be correctly plugged into its connect for on the main board, even though the metal plate covering the 4 connectors from the front panel should apply enough pressure to keep it in. There may be some dust inside the plug that prevents the connector from completely fitting inside.

Marco Tuzzi -

Hello everyone my front earpiece not working thinking to replace so i want to know its possible to install 6s front camrea on my iphone6 coz i will open the phone thinking better chnage the camera also .plz help

Slmanpro - Reply

You can change the camera, but your iPhone 6 will get no benefit from that, since it's built up to use the original camera.

Marco Tuzzi -

I want to replace my 6+ camera but I'm not sure what "trusted" brand I should buy the part from as you don't stock the part for that particular phone. Any recommendations??

liamkeady - Reply

I had this problem as well but I solved it a different way. I accidentally didn't pay attention to how the front camera cable ran across the top of the speaker. I had placed it under the speaker with the bracket on top. Just double check to make sure the cable ribbons are put back exactly like the pictures in the guide.

Taylor Sprinkle - Reply

I have followed all the instructions and finally my siri is now working without out crackling noise but now my front camera is not working any ideas why? I have tried going back trough my steps and starting again but it still doing the same thing.

Skogshuggare - Reply

Will a scrach in the cable affect the earpeice speaker from working?

Zachery Littlewood - Reply

My Siri doesn't work after the screen replacement (which is not done by me). And I've read that the front mic hole might be misplaced. So.. I'll try to open my iphone6 for the first time. (Yay!) What picture of which step should I look carefully not to misplace those holes?

Jeeyoung Jeon - Reply

hi im not sure if i need to do this i changed the screen on the daughters iphone 6 bought a complete screen ie with home button fitted it fine but her front facing camera isnt working and can only here on loud speaker i had another screen here tried that the same does anyone know what it could be

thomas piggott - Reply

I replaced the broken screen and battery on the iPhone 6. Now the front camera and flash won't work. I replaced the front camera and proximity sensor w/ cable twice. I did make sure to power off the phone and disconnect the battery before replacement. I still can't get the camera and flashlight to work. Please Help

Cherie - Reply

I just recently completed this repair. Everything works fine except the ambient light sensor. My auto dim feature does not work. I read that the 6 and 6s are interchangeable. except, if the 6s cable is used in the 6, that this could be an issue?

Is this confirmed?

Thanks for for your response.

Eli Roberts. - Reply

My iPhone 6s camera is damaged by having water inside the camera, I was wondering how much it would cost to fix?

Alexis Munoz - Reply

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 297

Past 7 Days: 2,170

Past 30 Days: 9,900

All Time: 244,972