Introduction

If your wi-fi signal is poor, you may need to replace the wi-fi antenna, or the interconnect cable on the logic board. Follow this guide to replace the interconnect cable and restore wi-fi signal to your phone.

Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

When reconnecting be VERY careful not to over tighten. The connectors on the screen that these 3.6mm Pentalobe screws lock with are notorious for breaking off

Blair Tryba - Reply

what do i do if ive managed to tighten them too hard and now they wont come off?

kristian686 -

Before opening the phone, I gently warmed it using a buckwheat heating pad. This made removal of the adhesive strips (steps 20 to 24) easy.

Howard Bales - Reply

Exactly what I did as well, the gently warming made the adhesive removal work like a charm. The heat as well help to lift the screen easily, no need for the prying tools for me to open te phone.

For the adhesive removal just pull it slowly to the bottom of the phone and keep in under tension.

On reassembly, turn on the phone after getting all connectors back in place to verify all is working fine before putting all screws back in their spot.

Maarten Vergauwen -

I put mine back together but mine looks very different than this one. Why is it that when I make a call I cannot hear through the ear piece and have to put it on speaker. Also my screen doesn't go black when my face touches it

Bailey Wilson - Reply

Hey Bailey, which repair were you attempting? Is it possible you have a 6s, or maybe a 6 Plus? You may have better luck with faster troubleshooting if you post in our Answer Forum!

Sam Lionheart -

See its a long time ago you had this issue. You can try to remove the cable from front camera/sensor/earpiece from the motherboard port and gently push it back on. All the problems you relate to is thru the same cable. If this dont solve your problem, check if the earpiece is correctly placed onto the polarity poles, and that the proximity sensor is lying right down into the corresponding socket. If something is blocking the sensor, yeah then the screen wont turn on/off when you put it onto your ear.

Kenneth Hilstan -

You only need 000 Screwdriver for ALL!

Tom Long - Reply

The next three steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 6 that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
  • The next three steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 6 that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down three steps for an alternate method.

  • If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone 6.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

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Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups. Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, just above (but not covering) the home button.
  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups.

    • Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, just above (but not covering) the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

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Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case. The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the display cables.
  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the display cables.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 8.

The iSclack opened the iPhone 6 with little effort. I could have given even less opening pressure than I did. Fantastic tool. Worth the investment.

Tim Dougherty - Reply

It's never mentioned anywhere that with iSclack even if you save the cables, glass easily detach from plastic frame. When you ri-assembly the phone, this will involve a glass not perfectly adherent to the body. In my opinion is better if you help yourself with a spudger to lift frame from rear case when you are using the iSclack.

marco bigoni - Reply

Holy cow this tool made it so much easier than a spudger and didn't damage anything. Totally worth the investment.

Fratelli '85 - Reply

If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:
  • If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

    • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the cup is pressed securely onto the screen to get a tight seal.

This is nearly impossible on a screen that is shattered

Erik Madsen - Reply

Try putting a strip of packing tape on the screen. That will make the surface smooth and help keep the suction.

Joanna - Reply

John, your lips move but I can't hear what you're saying. ;-)

TimD -

While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.
  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

  • Using a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while continuing to pull up with the suction cup.

  • There are several clips holding the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

Pulling up on the suction cup helped get me started, but what worked for me was pulling up gently while sliding the plastic prybar gently along the seam towards the top of the phone (on both sides), and it came open without having to put excess pressure on the suction.

lauren carroll - Reply

Same here, just open the gap a little with the suction cup and then use the opening tool on both sides.

Tobias - Reply

Along with the suction cup I used some Command adhesive strips to hold the bottom of the phone to a workbench as they easily pull/stretch away when you need to remove them!

Dion Sosa - Reply

Suction cup pictured here is the older version (with ring). I have one from my previous battery replacement on iPhone 5 and used that instead. The new one (gray with blue handle) kept on popping off. Overall, popping out screen was not as hard as it seems with these instructions, but do proceed with caution.

youmingc - Reply

Dion's idea to use removable adhesive strips was great, even better, use it to attach the iPhone to a clipboard. This will allow for a sort of Lazy Susan function while you work. I also used adhesive strips to attach my iPhone box to the clipboard as well and used that as a back rest (with rubber band) for the screen as pictured in steps below. This allowed me to very comfortably skip steps 13-19 as others have commented.

Adam - Reply

Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup. Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
  • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

  • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

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Open the iPhone by swinging the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge. Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge. During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.
  • Open the iPhone by swinging the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

    • Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge.

    • During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.

It's not clear from the instructions but it is shown correctly in the pictures: when the front panel assembly is just open (at a small angle with the rear case) pull the top edge clips out of the rear case to slightly separate the two components, then swing the front panel assembly away from the rear case. I assume not doing so would potentially damage the connecting ribbon and/or the alignment clips. Just a guess...

ethanlust - Reply

Ein Tipp zum Zusammenbau: Das Display ca. in 45 Grad halten und vorsichtig an die obere Kante des Gehäuses drücken, bis es bündig und glatt anliegt.

Dann das Display langsam und vorsichtig anklappen und die Clips von oben nach unten festdrücken.

SAS - Reply

Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone. In a pinch, an unopened canned beverage works well for this. Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • In a pinch, an unopened canned beverage works well for this.

  • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

A picture is worth a thousand words! This idea at Step 9 is perfect and you can definitely do the entire rest of the battery replacement WITHOUT having to disconnect the display from the rear case. Just leave it secured exactly as shown in this picture and you're good to go. I just completed the repair and the most difficult part was just lining up the new battery connector! Excellent instructions and generally EASY repair because this step was so helpful!

Ryan - Reply

I did the same. Made the work go so much smoother!

dcommins - Reply

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - Reply

I'm going to try it this way, because the odds of damaging the connector during removal seem greater than the risk of ripping the cable, however, I plan to cradle the phone in the "L" of simple, sheet metal bookend, and secure it using blue painter's tape. Seems more stable.

bobcloninger - Reply

If you do this step carefully- (rubber band the front panel, and carefully peel away the battery adhesive) you can SKIP 13 THRU 19!

Larry House - Reply

Remove the following Phillips screws from the battery connector bracket:
  • Remove the following Phillips screws from the battery connector bracket:

    • One 2.2 mm screw

    • One 3.2 mm screw

#000 needed here

David Pobuda - Reply

These screws require a Phillips #000 not Phillips #00 bit.

David Powell - Reply

How do you know that? Just wondering :)

Didier Daniel -

I replace the antenna in the upper left-hand corner an in the bottom middle with the lightning connector because After disassemble it completely i lose my ability to have Cellular. After i replace both antennas i can find i nevertheless have cellular. anybody an idea ?

kupies2011 - Reply

@davidsapowell @David+Pobuda - I've submitted an update per your comments. Thanks for the guidance!

Nate Schley - Reply

With the phillips screwdriver included in the repair kit I cannot unscrew any of the interior screws because it is not the right size even though according to these comments all of the screws are #000 and on the product listing it says that the screwdriver I got is #000. Any suggestions?

Wilson Styres - Reply

Upon reassembly I found the Red 2.2 mm screw won't seat. Is it possible it sheared off? The Orange 3.2 is solid in both holes but 2.2 doesn't securely fit in either.. Should I just leave off the 2.2?

smcgreg - Reply

My phone was missing this screw also!

Gail Starr -

Duh, had the cover on the wrong way. Switched it around and the screw fit. (:

smcgreg - Reply

When I insert the 3.2 mm screw... The phone shuts down, very weird because am not seeing what could cause this short...

Juan Monge - Reply

Using the Phillips 000 screwdriver included in the kit, I am able to remove the 3.2 mm screw, but not the 2.2 mm one.

Dan Solovay - Reply

None of the screwdriver heads in this kit are big enough for these screws!!! I now have an open iphone and i have to go to the store to buy a different screwdriver..I do not recommend this

Elaine Eason - Reply

I was unable to unscrew the 2.2mm screw with the provided screwdriver. I was able to unscrew the 3.2mm screw but not the 2.2mm

Jameison Martin - Reply

I'm stuck in the same boat here. The one screw came out no problem but the second isn't catching at all.

Brian Adams - Reply

Stuck with Jameison and Brian here... 2.2mm won't catch with all three provided screwdrivers.

Matthijs Rog - Reply

Agreed, the screwheads included in this kit didn’t work for me either. Fortunately my own toolbox has an appropriate screwdriver…. Seeing as how we are paying for this kit so we don’t need to purchase extra tools, iFixit should really include screwheads that actually work!

Priscilla Cheng - Reply

Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.
  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Why in the YouTube video do you skip removing the battery connector

mjcoughlin70 - Reply

Where to buy this bracket?

syidan - Reply

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Take care to only pry up on the battery connector, and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

I skipped steps 13-19 and just left the front panel rubber banded while I removed the battery. I just made sure to be careful while removing the adhesive strips so as not to move around the body of the phone too much. Skipping the steps made the whole process much faster and easier.

Tonima Chaudhury - Reply

I wish I had done that.

Gail Starr -

Thanks for this awesome tip. Made the replacement go much smoother - saved me from removing all those other screws. I also recommend watching the ifixit battery adhesive strip video before proceeding with step 21.

Andy Milne -

Me too, no need to detach the screen (when you take care),

Tom Long -

I also skipped steps 13-19 after reading the first comment.

youmingc - Reply

I skipped those steps too and was successful. Thanks for this tip!

jaksbackpack - Reply

Can disconnecting the battery connector while power is on ruin the backlight? Or can disconnecting the power connector at a different stage ruin the back light?

mitch Toler - Reply

You should power down the phone before disconnecting the battery. That said, the backlight should be fine. A blown backlight circuit is most commonly caused by disconnecting the display when the battery is still connected.

Jeff Suovanen -

I did open the lcd without disconnecting the battery and my lcd wouldn't working

Reza I. Permana -

Thanks for that tip Tonima! This is another confirmation that skipping steps 13-19 worked out great!

As an extra measure, in addition to leaving the front panel rubber banded in it's open, vertical position (I secured mine to a can of beans) and being very careful and controlled when removing the adhesive strips; before using the suction cup to separate the front panel from the rear case, I had secured the back side of the rear case to my working surface (kitchen table) with a strip of folded over duct tape (creating double sided tape). Such might not have been necessary as I held the rear case with one hand while removing the adhesive strips with the other, though it just felt safer having the rear case (as well as the front panel) well secured in place to help assure that I didn't accidentally cause any damage to those very fragile looking cables that were left connected, by any possible movements of either of the iPhone's halfs during the pulling to remove the adhesive strips.

Russ Levey - Reply

It happened to me, by prying the battery connector with another tool I broke part of the socket off the board. However, by placing it exactly back in place the connector could be placed correctly and it works. Lucky.

Udo Schuehle - Reply

I'd like a little more explanation on how to re-attach the battery connector. But in the end I lined it up and pressed gently down till it snapped into place.

Garret Gray - Reply

I skipped the steps removing the screen only because I didn't feel confident at all doing this. For someone who is used to electronics I would really suggest removing it because I imagine the whole process would've been easier. If there's a next time, perhaps I'll do that.

Garret Gray - Reply

The suggestions that recommend skipping step 13-19 apply to some other repair. We replaced the display, and to do so, steps 13-19 are, of course, necessary.

Gabriel Zachmann - Reply

Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:
  • Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    • One 3.1 mm screw

  • Incorrect placement of these screws during reassembly will cause permanent damage to your iPhone's logic board.

Be careful when replacing the screws, not to accidentally put the 1.7mm screw into the center hole, where the 1.2 screw belongs. This can cause "Long Screw" damage, and render your phone unusable.

damianodessgillett - Reply

I don't have the magnetic pad but use duct tape face up in a tray. I write the step number and color of the screw on the sticky surface and let the screw stand heads up on the goo. The screw is presented for the driver when reassembling.

griffn - Reply

Can't stress enough how important it is not to mix up these screws! Using the 1.7mm screw for the lower left fixing will cause "long screw damage" and kill the backlight on the phone. I believe @damianodessgillett made the same point. Wish we could display a small warning message here to be extra careful for future fixers!

kev - Reply

I use a screw ID technique similar to griffn's; I print out the PDF version of the guide, then Scotch-tape each screw type to the guide at the step where the screw was removed. The screws are then distinguished by size and type at the point where they need to be reinstalled.

adlerpe - Reply

i am trying but only could open 2 screws and cannot open the rest of them, can you help me??

girlsrock742 - Reply

@girlsrock742 - I'm new here, but from what I've seen, questions like yours don't get answered. I have 2 suggestions:

# Be more specific about what your issue is.

# Make sure you're using the right screwdriver. (Get a magnifying glass & make sure the screwdriver fits nicely in the screwhead.) This guide is included in a guide I'm looking at, and my guide has a comment that #000 phillips is required for the battery connector bracket above, not #00 as documented. (That comment did not convey to this guide....)

Good luck!

Nate Schley - Reply

Thanks to @griffn & @adlerpe! I've updated the tools list to include the magnetic pad, and -- for us infrequent fixers -- I made a note in the intro text to describe the sort of thing you two noted here in place of the mag pad.

Also, to @damianodessgillett & @kev - I've submitted an update to the instructions to add the caution you recommend to the step. Hopefully others will avoid the pain of the Long Screw damage.

Nate Schley - Reply

It's possible to damage only a slot of flex cable ? I've opened my iPhone 6 but now front camera, speaker and the proximity sensor are not working. I've bought a new flex cabe to test it, but I have to be sure about that.

cruz.giovanni - Reply

I'm so worried I'm going insert the wrong screw. Does anyone have any suggestions to knowing how to properly tell the size of each screw? I bought a screw set and a magnetic pad but still have the same issue. Not knowing the correct placement of each screw. I'd definitely appreciate any help.

Patric - Reply

Hi Patric! We use a set of calipers to measure our screws, failing that you could use a very fine ruler. If you don't have any kind of measuring equipment, line the screws up on the magnetic mat and sort them by size there. Ideally you only have screws from this step! If you are trying to determine the size of all the screws in this guide, it's probably best to get a real ruler/caliper for the fine distinctions.

Sam Lionheart -

Do you have to remove the display to replace the battery?

Michael Aguilera - Reply

It's not absolutely necessary to remove the display, I kept my display propped up throughout the operation. Removal of the display doesn't seem to offer any particular benefit, unless you have problems with the adhesive strips.

Adam - Reply

Hi. I messed up with the screws in the cover guard sheet for the display ribbon and my iPhone 6 plus isn't turning on. Does that mean the logic board is dead or the battery ? Should I throw the phone in the garbage can ?

nzf - Reply

I can confirm it's not necessary to remove anything other than battery bracket. If you support the screen against something as in the picture, just make sure you hold the iPhone absolutely still with one hand while pulling out the adhesive strips with the other. I also used a small piece of tape to hold the screen in place against the box while I worked.

I am now a very happy customer and am looking forward to another few years life from my awesome iPhone 6!

Matt Whiteley - Reply

There is no need to do this step. No need to remove these 5 screws. Just make sure the screen is propped up against something strong and this step is unnecessary for the proper removal and re-insertion of battery.

arunhn - Reply

I left the front panel connected and it was much quicker. But, if you have to wrestle with the battery, it is much safer with the front panel removed. If you have worked on a few phone before, I'd try removing the battery with the front panel connected. If the battery is giving you problems(like if you tear the strips and have to heat the backside), you can always come back to this step.

Joel Horie - Reply

I strongly recommend you leave the display connectors alone if you can. My battery came out without a fight, but I found the display connectors to be almost tragically delicate, and I had white lines in the display when I booted it. During the subsequent attempts to remedy that situation, things went down hill and now I'm waiting for an entirely new display to try to rescue the phone from repair oblivion.

kevin hekman - Reply

I also skipped all of the screen-removal steps and had nary a problem. Just rubber band the screen around whatever it is propped against and I believe you'll be fine.

Billy Bob Baler - Reply

Hello! I put the screws on in the wrong order and I believe my backlight is dead, iTunes still recognizes my phone when I plug it in, but the screen is blank. Is it possible to replace the logic board or is the phone useless forever?

Tanya Lyn Willard - Reply

You probably connected the cables wrong, try doing this step again and carefully correct your cables.

June Beltran -

I totally recommend doing this step first before removing the battery connector bracket, it will be much easier and comfortable with the screen out of the way.

Also I recommend drawing the bracket on a piece of paper and place the screws on top of the respective position on the drawing, this way you won't be confused when putting them back.

June Beltran - Reply

I accidentally lost a 1.2mm screw while doing a screen replacement. Will this make the phone malfunction in anyway after I close it back up or its fine?

Walter White - Reply

DO NOT DO THIS STEP. It is totally unnecessary to remove the connectors, and they are a really big pain to put back in, and there is risk of damaging them, and it adds a lot of time to the process of replacing the battery. Just securely prop up the front panel, and then if you gently heat the back of the phone when removing the adhesive strips, the battery comes off easily. I could have saved myself about 2 hours and a lot of frustration if I had just left these connectors in. I wish the instructions here would just include this step (connector removal) ONLY IF the battery doesn't come out easily.

J Marr - Reply

Exactly, just like J, Marr indicates, this step is not necessary. Just make sure you're careful to not move the phone too much, otherwise you can damage the film connectors. Other than that I even heated my phone to remove the adhesive, and thank God, nothing bad happened to it.

Mc Floyd -

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - Reply

How can't you do step 33 if you don't do 13-19? iPhone 6.

predylindsay - Reply

I'm missing something here, I want to swap out the screen. How does one skip steps 13-19 if wanting to remove the screen?

BW Lee - Reply

Any tips for removing the 1.2 mm screws? Mine won't budge at all with the PH000 and I'm afraid I'm stripping the screws.

MClare - Reply

I had to use the larger bit for ALL of the screws as the small one was too narrow at the tip to actually grab anything. It worked but made it a bit more difficult.

Heather Best - Reply

Is it really necessary to remove the front panel at all, can't you just ask a friend to hold it in an upright position while you work on the battery?

Peter - Reply

I also skipped steps 13 - 19. Just be very careful not to apply to much stress to the connectors in between the screen and the base. For me I also used another box to keep the base from sliding around while removing the battery.

Patrick Reed - Reply

You cannot skip these steps, of course, when you want to replace the display (which was the kind of repair we did).

When putting the little connectors in place again afterwards, I can recommend to hold the connectors to the display using a little rubber band. That way, they don’t get in the way when you put them in place one by one.

Gabriel Zachmann - Reply

Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.
  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

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In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.
  • In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets on the logic board.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

I can not get these electrical connections to reconnect. If there is some secret to this it should be noted. I now have a phone all taken apart and can not get it back together. It makes no sense to only give directions to take a phone apart and not to put it back together.

douglas hughes - Reply

Use sideways bright light and peek underneath as you mate the contacts to align properly. Press very gently and evenly. Others have written that too much pressure in the center may warp the contact.

mahoffman - Reply

I'm having the same problem as above...really upset and frustrated at this point. :( 2/4 connectors (top and right) will 'click' just fine...the other two (bottom two) for the life of me wont connect!!!! :( any suggestions? i feel like i have tried everything. Sucks that is only thing stopping me screen from being repaired....

alyssaavaldezz - Reply

Hi alyssa. Were you able to connect the cables? I am having the same problem

Veronica del Rio -

regarding cable connects - if two of the ribbon cables are not properly overlapped around each other, then it will appear as if cable #2 will need to plug into the closest jack, which is actually for cable#3. Look at the two connectors carefully - they are opposite gender and can't be interchanged.

David Panak - Reply

This is good advice, and usually the problem people experience here. There is a very specific way the ribbon cables are layered, and if not correct when reassembled, the reach of the cables will cause you to assume which cable goes where and to try to insert the wrong plugs into the wrong sockets. Please do not try to force them. If they don't snap in easily, examine them closely, and you'll see the plugs and sockets are slightly different sizes, with one wider than the other. Better to take care to note how the cables layer during disassembly, or perhaps mark them to avoid this frustration on reassembly.

gybeho -

Check order of cables. From screen replacement.

lee moran - Reply

my problem is that the connectors are different the screen i replaced it with the connectors were longer than the broken screen even though there the exact same type of screen

andrew midgett - Reply

Probably just have the cables out of order. Check the posts above.

gybeho - Reply

"gybeho" Ok, but it's impossible to install flex cables out of order. Each one has diferent sizes of docking...

cruz.giovanni - Reply

it is very possible to install flex cables out of order. to most people working on their first screen replacement they do not have the experience to notice that their flex cable connection is different than the dock connection. this causes them to press harder and force the connection into the dock, ruining the connections, if they do not think the they have the cables out of order

Dakota Navarrete - Reply

I'm with Andrew Midgett. The connectors are just plain different in size and orientation. My phone matches what's shown in the picture above. You can see an example of the replacement part if you search Amazon for "Sanka LCD Touch Screen Digitizer Frame Assembly Full Set Screen Replacement for iPhone 6". And Sanka isn't the only iPhone 6 replacement that looks like that, so no hating on that manufacturer here.

Does this mean that some iPhone 6 phones have one set of connectors and some have a different set? FWIW, the model on the back of my phone says A1549.

PG McLaughlin - Reply

Update: Searching for iPhone 6S instead of 6 on Amazon, I see lots of replacement screens with connectors that look a lot more like what I have and what's shown in the picture above. (One connector has a horizontal orientation, the other is vertical. I can't be sure whether the pins or dimensions match otherwise.) Any wisdom here?

PG McLaughlin - Reply

Had the same problem with the correct layering of cable harnesses. Perhaps an additional photo showing the correct layering would be helpful for 1st timers?

William Breen - Reply

+1 for a photo showing the correct layering and routing of cables. I accidentally routed the home button ribbon above the digitizer ribbon and beneath the power and backlight ribbons. The uneven pressure it put on the digitizer connector after tightening the plate caused my digitizer to not recognize touching the display or made touches appear off center.

drpotter -

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the home button cable connector.

Muy buenas....una pregunta tecnica...si el botón falla o no está bien conectado...al conectar este conector ¿ se apagaría el teléfono?. Repare mi iphone y al conectarlo se me apaga el movil, sin embargo si no lo enchufo el movil enciende perfectamente.

Gracias.

Berta fernandez - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display data cable connector. When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display data cable connector.

  • When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.

you missed the name of the second connctor. there are four total

copykatt - Reply

My screen is completely black and i can see the lights turning on when i press the home or lock button. Maybe this cable got damaged ?

Gabriel Hirata - Reply

Perhaps you bought a faulty screen. Often this is the case when it shows completely black.

William Mullan - Reply

When I was preforming this step, while reassembling, I had to connect the digitizer cable four times. On the last time, before screwing the Front Panel Assembly Cable Bracket on, I reconnected the battery connector and turned my phone on (ensuring that I was careful not to damage any cables!) to ensure that all cables were connected correctly and that the screen was fully functional.

Christopher - Reply

NO NO NO ! i am a professional iphone repairman and i strongly recommend against using ANY tool to disconnect the flex connectors if u slip or use to much force you will damage the connector and may cause permanent damage to the phones logic board rendering it completely UNrepairable! Instead gently use the edge of your fingernail and pry up and the connectors will usually come off with very little effort .

taylor sparks - Reply

Fingernails work great as well! However, there's nothing wrong with using a tool, as long as you exercise a little caution. If you've ever seen one of Apple's iPhone service manuals, you'll note that they use the exact same tool as iFixit (Apple calls it a "black stick" and iFixit dubs it a "spudger.")

Jeff Suovanen -

I'm pretty sure ifixit are pros, I used them 4 times to fix phones and no problems with using tools for flex cables.

Dave - Reply

If you still have white lines after you've tried reconnecting the connectors and power cycling. Just do a hard reset a few more times, let the phone stay on and wait a while. As long as it's not damaged, the lines will fade over the next hour or so. Your phone will be as good as new.

grjos - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector. When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

  • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Reassembly was harder than other i devices I have worked on. A bench light from the side helped a lot with the first cable, the digitizer. The others went a bit better in this crowded space. I had screen lines when testing it out before closing the top, so reinstalled all four connectors here with the aid of a side light and happily, that worked!

griffn - Reply

i crossed over the first two cables initially, when re-assembled; make sure by the WIDTH that you are trying to connect them in the right order.

awr - Reply

How many times can i peel these connections without braking the connection between screen and logic borad

falken1337 - Reply

Is this the breaking down process for the Verizon version of the iPhone 6s? I know the flex cables were different for other versions and with my last iPhone I made the mistake of ordering one that had completely different cable places. Someone please send me a link to one that fits the Verizon 4.7 display!!!

Bailey Duncan - Reply

This break down isn't for a 6S. It is for a plain 6 (no S). Yes there is some differences because of the 3D touch feature.

Keith Mullins - Reply

So what is the fix if there is digitizer damage? Replacing the screen?

After reinstallation, I am encountering issues with an area of the screen that is not responding to touch. Everything else works fine.

Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed?

Jonathan Rivera - Reply

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to Place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

// Simon

Simon Tengstrand -

I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector).

Simon Tengstrand -

I had the most issues when reassembling with this step. The plastic tool is a fail in my experience since not enough pressure could be applied using it. I just ended up using my finger and that worked 10Xs better. My advice, watch a few YouTube videos of people reconnecting the connectors and you'll be fine.

grjos - Reply

I have dis-connected and reconnected several times with the white line appearing each time. The screen however seems to be responsive. I did lose a 1.2 mm screw. Is it the missing screw or did I damage the digitizer connection?

Charlotte - Reply

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

I had three screws left when I did some repairs on my iphone 4 and that didn't matter. It worked like a charm :)

// Simon

Simon Tengstrand -

I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector)

Simon Tengstrand -

Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.
  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Add Comment

Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray. Press to eject the tray.
  • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

  • Press to eject the tray.

  • This may require a significant amount of force.

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Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the iPhone.
  • Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the iPhone.

  • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Lightning connector assembly cable and fold it out of the way of the speaker. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Lightning connector assembly cable and fold it out of the way of the speaker.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Lightning connector assembly cable and fold it out of the way of the speaker.

How vital is that foam looking piece on top of the antenna cable connector? It popped off when I was lifting.

Carter Christie - Reply

Same thing happened to me. I hope it's not too vital!

paulflicker - Reply

Use the point of a spudger to lift the antenna cable connector up off of its socket on the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to lift the antenna cable connector up off of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the point of a spudger to lift the antenna cable connector up off of its socket on the logic board.

Definitely was a very small snug fitting connector.

ronjon40 - Reply

ripped off the foam on top while trying to pry it out. Also careful not to pull the entire logic board while doing this

Jordan Leong - Reply

Ah, isn't that a bugger to get back in place after finished repairs! Be patient! Position and gently press. If no click, reposition and try again... time an time again. Did I say, be patient?

Lars Andersson - Reply

I found that this is not the best tool for removing this component.. The connector is round and the the pointed tip of the tool makes it very easy to slip off the connector and do damage to other components. As I was trying to disconnect the connector, the tool slipped and tore the wire out of the connector. The flat end of the spudger seems like it would work better.

Trent Warner - Reply

Yes, the flat end of the spudger works definitely better.

Alexander Kvasov -

Remove the following Phillips screws from the upper cable bracket:
  • Remove the following Phillips screws from the upper cable bracket:

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 2.2 mm screw

Add Comment

Remove the upper cable bracket from the iPhone. Remove the upper cable bracket from the iPhone.
  • Remove the upper cable bracket from the iPhone.

Add Comment

When disconnecting the following connectors, only pry up on the connector, not the socket on the logic board or you risk permanent damage. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the power button and flash assembly cable connector up off of its socket. Lift the volume control cable connector up out of its socket on the logic board.
  • When disconnecting the following connectors, only pry up on the connector, not the socket on the logic board or you risk permanent damage.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the power button and flash assembly cable connector up off of its socket.

  • Lift the volume control cable connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

Add Comment

Remove the following four Phillips #00 screws from the Wi-Fi antenna:
  • Remove the following four Phillips #00 screws from the Wi-Fi antenna:

    • One 1.5 mm screw

    • One 1.4 mm screw

    • Two 2.1 mm screws

Add Comment

Remove the Wi-Fi antenna from the iPhone. Be careful not to touch any metal to metal contact points with your bare fingers—use tweezers or gloves. Finger oils may disrupt conductivity. If you do touch any of these components, clean them with a degreaser like windex or isopropyl alcohol before reassembly.
  • Remove the Wi-Fi antenna from the iPhone.

  • Be careful not to touch any metal to metal contact points with your bare fingers—use tweezers or gloves. Finger oils may disrupt conductivity. If you do touch any of these components, clean them with a degreaser like windex or isopropyl alcohol before reassembly.

Add Comment

Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #00 screws from the grounding bracket.
  • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #00 screws from the grounding bracket.

I have assembled an iPhone 6 and it seems that everything goes fine except the NFC. The phone does not respond to the POS when using Apple Pay. I think there should be some poor connection between the logic board and NFC antenna. If so, which screws should I scrutinise to fix this problem? Thank you.

facebook - Reply

These two little screws are in pretty tight.

Matt Lobban - Reply

Remove the grounding bracket from the iPhone. Remove the grounding bracket from the iPhone.
  • Remove the grounding bracket from the iPhone.

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Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the angled logic board bracket. One 2.6 mm screw
  • Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the angled logic board bracket.

    • One 2.6 mm screw

    • One 1.3 mm screw, located horizontally in the upper sidewall of the iPhone.

Is there an easy way to remove the 1.3MM screw in here I can't eem to remove it by hand.

sem schilder - Reply

I'm having the same problem, did you manage to remove it?

Daniel Villanis -

I faced it today, You can use a 1.5mm flat head screw driver to remove it. The guide mentions this in step 36 for stand-off screw. Hope iFIX changes the guide to indicate the flat screw driver or remove the step here.

Anand Parthasarathy - Reply

Not sure we're talking about the same screw—this is definitely a Phillips (as shown in the photo), not a standoff. It's usually easiest with a dedicated Phillips driver, as opposed to the interchangeable bit drivers, which are fatter and a little tougher to angle in correctly.

Jeff Suovanen -

Jeff, you are right, The instructions indicate a flat head screw driver. Since I ordered the kit with the part, it is easy to assume this will be part of it. My revised comment would be to highlight that the kit would not include it if pairing with the antenna cable replacement part order. Regarding the screw, big picture did not show the screw in orange, I mistook it as the one in later step. You are right it seems to be Phillips as shown in second small picture.

Anand Parthasarathy -

I wasn't able to remove horizontal screw, but was able to continue on with the remaining steps with no problems. The logic board slid from below the angled logic board bracket.

Gar Galen - Reply

I wasn't able to remove the horizontal screw either and moved on with no problems as well. Thanks for the tip!

Kelsey Chesnut -

Remove the angled logic board bracket. Remove the angled logic board bracket.
  • Remove the angled logic board bracket.

The right side of the bracket may be under some black tape that may need to be removed to allow you to remove the bracket.

Doug Whyte - Reply

Yes, further, It never came out for me. But, I lifted slightly and that was enough for board to slide out. Did not want to force the palstic/rubber part to avoid breaking it.

Anand Parthasarathy - Reply

I broke the part where the screw connecting it to the logic board goes. The metal part is still okay just the screw won't go in. Will it still work?

Neel Nani - Reply

Remove the single 1.2 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the antenna interconnect cable to the logic board.
  • Remove the single 1.2 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the antenna interconnect cable to the logic board.

Make sure to tighten these screws well when reassembling so you don't have issues with cellular reception. Had a phone that wouldn't connect to cellular connection after a screen replacement. I tightened the screw and it started working again.

Christian Abreu - Reply

If you got those strips you will have to remove the screen again and make sure you're plugging properly all the flex cables to the lógica board. Try to push them from the right to the left side.

Jas - Reply

Use the point of a spudger to fold the antenna interconnect cable up out of the way of the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to fold the antenna interconnect cable up out of the way of the logic board.
  • Use the point of a spudger to fold the antenna interconnect cable up out of the way of the logic board.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the camera cable connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure to only pry on the connector not the socket itself or you can cause permanent damage to the logic board. Fold the camera cable up out of the way of the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the camera cable connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to only pry on the connector not the socket itself or you can cause permanent damage to the logic board.

  • Fold the camera cable up out of the way of the logic board.

Add Comment

Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear case:
  • Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear case:

    • Two 1.9 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • One 2.3 mm standoff screw

      • Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove these standoff screws.

      • During reassembly, you can use the tip of a spudger to get the standoff screw started.

The standoff screw was difficult to remove because a normal phillips head screwdriver is the wrong shape. I had to use a small flat head screwdriver carefully to get it off.

Matthew Williams - Reply

I absolutely can not get this standoff screw off. Searching the web now for "iphone standoff screw" I see that there are specialized screwdrivers for getting this screw off. I wish I had one right at this moment! Anyway, an improvement to these instructions would be to mention this standoff screw upfront, so that one can be prepared with the right screwdriver before starting this job. I'm stuck at this step right now. A small flathead screwdriver just isn't cutting it.

paulflicker - Reply

Hello. I used a 1.5 mm flat screwdriver from iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit. It worked easily for me.

Angelo Mastrella -

Yes, I too faced issue and the guide should indicate we need a 1.5mm flat head screw driver. Without that, you end up in half disassembled phone with no way to fix further.

IFIXIT, please adjust the instructions and better yet add a small 1.5mm flat head tip to use in the kit.

Anand Parthasarathy - Reply

Well it does say to use a flathead in the instructions, and it's also in the tools list at the top of the guide. Although if you really want to make it easy, you can use a standoff driver (or just the standoff bit if you already have the driver handle).

Jeff Suovanen -

Jeff, you are right, it mentions in the list. I stand corrected. But when ordering the repair kit with the part for antenna cable replacement, it is not clear we will need this as well. You would assume you have all you need from the kit and that is something I feel either IFIX include the flat head or add a note to require that when ordering.

Anand Parthasarathy -

@gadgetag That's a fair point! I've passed your comments along to our tool development team, and they're already working on an update for the fix kit. Hope the lack of a flathead didn't trip you up too much. Thanks for your feedback!

Jeff Suovanen -

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector end of the logic board up slightly, just enough to grab with your fingers. Insert the spudger near the metal shields below the SIM card tray to avoid damaging any chips or sockets.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector end of the logic board up slightly, just enough to grab with your fingers.

    • Insert the spudger near the metal shields below the SIM card tray to avoid damaging any chips or sockets.

Where is a safe place to put the logic board one removed?

Carter Christie - Reply

Where can i buy a motherboard for my iphone 6

Jeffrey Dennis - Reply

Lift the battery connector end of the logic board and pull it up and out of the rear case. Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables. Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.
  • Lift the battery connector end of the logic board and pull it up and out of the rear case.

    • Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.

I've been told that the problem with my phone is the logic board. Can any standard logic board be swapped in for a defective one, or are there any additional steps needed to get the phone operational?

Dennis Gagomiros - Reply

If you are following these instructions for the purpose of replacing the commonly failing wifi antenna cable, you will find it on the back of the logic board when you lift it out. You will need to fiddle around a bit to find the right position for the 4 connectors - they are microscopic - and you will hear tiny little clicks when they go in the right places. Check by looking at the board and antenna sideways, to see that they are all in place, before starting reassembly.

Lars Andersson - Reply

5-6 days from salt water damaged so this process will work so or not and this is my first time so i m afraid…i will go ahead or not?

swayanshu panda - Reply

Flip the logic board over to expose the antenna on the back side. Disconnect the four coaxial connectors from the logic board and remove the antenna cable from the logic board.
  • Flip the logic board over to expose the antenna on the back side.

  • Disconnect the four coaxial connectors from the logic board and remove the antenna cable from the logic board.

  • Be careful not to touch any metal to metal contact points with your bare fingers—use tweezers or gloves. Finger oils may disrupt conductivity. If you do touch any of these components, clean them with a degreaser like windex or isopropyl alcohol before reassembly.

Add Comment

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

49 other people completed this guide.

Sam Lionheart

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15 Comments

Great tutorial. Gps, bluetooth and wifi working again 100% for less than 2 quid. Thanks

Andres - Reply

Great Guide, GPS Antenna and WIFI antenna replaced!!! a little sweat... but i did it

Miguel Cartagenova - Reply

This part and replacement guide saved my iPhone. I thought the phone was just getting old and on its way out since the bluetooth and gps were incredibly awful. Bluetooth only worked within direct line of sight within one foot, and gps had stopped working almost completely. It took some time to perform this repair, but I following the guide carefully and patiently fixed the problem completely. This part and guide worked perfectly. Thank you very much ifixit!

Joseph Engbert - Reply

EXCELLENT Instructions! 1:15 first time. Worked great, saved me the cost of a new phone. The "genius bar" said it couldn't be fixed, talk about self serving "you will have to buy a new phone!"

KEY GUIDANCE

0) Be careful when taking the front off, I snapped off one of two pieces near the lightening connector!

1) Print out the instructions (yes its a lot of pages, but trust me)

2) As you take off screws and pieces tape them to the instructions where they go

3) YOU will thank me later.

If I had not done this I think it would have been twice as long, and likely made mistakes and perhaps damaged something with the wrong length screw. I kept like screws together under one piece of tape, next to each color indicator.

rtotah67 - Reply

Awesome instructions - especially the "the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on." part. The last time I had my phone apart I had that exact problem and it ended up costing me £50 to get it fixed along with what turned out to be a load of BS from the guy who fixed it. I had the same problem again this time but after reading that little gem I fixed it myself. The rest of the procedure was very well documented and simple (if fiddly) to follow. I drew some boxes on paper and lablelled them in relation to the sections, then put the screws in each section as I went.

Thank you for saving me a lot of money - 10/10

Mike Hughes - Reply

I had an issue with my iPhone with poor WiFi reception and most of the time couldn't connect to WiFi at all. If the WiFi signal from a router was strong, that was the only time I could connect. The Apple store ran their diagnostics and told me there was no fault detected and the option was to pay $429 AUD for a replacement phone so I did some fault finding myself. After reinstalling the firmware through a DFU restore and reinstalling the software to rule out both those contenders it was pretty certain it was a hardware issue.

I replaced the WiFi antenna and also the antenna flex cable while I was in there. The issue is resolved and phone is functioning perfectly. I cannot say which part solved the issue but figured it was worth changing both out at the same time. The repair guide was spot on and super easy to follow, parts supplied from iFIXIT were good quality and did the job. Overall coast was just over $50 AUD including tools and shipping. Thank you!

tooeasy - Reply

Thank you very much for this excellent guide. Worked a charm. Also, the tip to print out these instructions and tape the parts and screws to the steps is well worth doing. Thanks again.

Caroline McCarthy - Reply

This guide is amazing! Thought I was going to have to give in and buy a new phone, but found this thread and decided to give it a shot. I've never done anything like this before but was able to fix the problem (non-working/spotty GPS, wifi, and bluetooth) on my first try! I would definitely suggest creating a grid with each step on a piece of paper and putting/taping the screws and parts down to keep track of everything. The results were great! My GPS works again, the bluetooth signal reaches across the house, and my phone is picking up wifi networks again. Thanks for saving me a boatload of money - it feels wonderful to breath new life into my (only 2-year old) phone!!!

Kelsey Chesnut - Reply

A great guide! However did not fix my greyed put wifi problem. Any other suggestions? Factory reset?

Abbie - Reply

Abbie: If it's a greyed out wifi symbol issue, my understanding is that it's probably the wifi card / board itself, not the antenna cable.

Andy - Reply

Tolle Anleitung!

Hat alles super geklappt und wlan/bt/GPS funktionieren wieder einwandfrei!

Danke!!

MrDKing1994 - Reply

3 1/2 hours , left some connectors under the logic board and so had to disassemble again, nightmare with the flat head screw and managed to lose 2 screws! one from the cable bracket and one to secure the logic board. Amazed when it turned on and full wifi /gps again! Amazing instructions - thanks !!

Ryan Johnson - Reply

Thank you very much my GPS could no longer locate my position and when I got this done its working good as new. Knocked it out in 45 mins!

David Bernal - Reply

This fixed my problem with the GPS being completely useless and the 2,4GHz wifi being sketchy. Fantastic! The repair took me an hour - including loosing and relocating one of the very smallest 1.2mm screws on the floor. I taped the screws to a piece of paper and wrote the corresponding step number next to it, which made reassembly very easy.

nicholas_ransome - Reply

The first sign of trouble on my phone was gps not working , then I noticed poor WiFi and Bluetooth range. I followed the steps for this repair - I think two of the connectors on the antenna flex had just popped off, but I replaced it anyway as I had bought the part (under £2 from replacebase.co.uk). Now gps, WiFi and Bluetooth all looking good again. Great guide, thanks. Not too difficult, just need to be organised with the screws.

MartinW - Reply

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