Introduction

If your wi-fi signal is poor, you may need to replace the wi-fi antenna, or the interconnect cable on the logic board. Follow this guide to replace the interconnect cable and restore wi-fi signal to your phone.

Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

When reconnecting be VERY careful not to over tighten. The connectors on the screen that these 3.6mm Pentalobe screws lock with are notorious for breaking off

Blair Tryba - Reply

what do i do if ive managed to tighten them too hard and now they wont come off?

kristian686 -

Before opening the phone, I gently warmed it using a buckwheat heating pad. This made removal of the adhesive strips (steps 20 to 24) easy.

Howard Bales - Reply

Exactly what I did as well, the gently warming made the adhesive removal work like a charm. The heat as well help to lift the screen easily, no need for the prying tools for me to open te phone.

For the adhesive removal just pull it slowly to the bottom of the phone and keep in under tension.

On reassembly, turn on the phone after getting all connectors back in place to verify all is working fine before putting all screws back in their spot.

Maarten Vergauwen -

I put mine back together but mine looks very different than this one. Why is it that when I make a call I cannot hear through the ear piece and have to put it on speaker. Also my screen doesn't go black when my face touches it

Bailey Wilson - Reply

Hey Bailey, which repair were you attempting? Is it possible you have a 6s, or maybe a 6 Plus? You may have better luck with faster troubleshooting if you post in our Answer Forum!

Sam Lionheart -

See its a long time ago you had this issue. You can try to remove the cable from front camera/sensor/earpiece from the motherboard port and gently push it back on. All the problems you relate to is thru the same cable. If this dont solve your problem, check if the earpiece is correctly placed onto the polarity poles, and that the proximity sensor is lying right down into the corresponding socket. If something is blocking the sensor, yeah then the screen wont turn on/off when you put it onto your ear.

Kenneth Hilstan -

You only need 000 Screwdriver for ALL!

Tom Long - Reply

what do i do if all the screws fail to come off and if i don’t have some of the tools like the iSclack

Brandon Kato - Reply

I see in the preamble that when you replace your logic board, you would lose touch id functionality, so my question is what if you have the homebutton and thus the fingerprint reader for the logic board replacement, would touch id work?

socratesmens - Reply

The guide for the iPhone6 battery replacement needs to be revised. There are a couple of issues.

1) While the battery cover has two screws, they are different lengths. Since they are very small, it can be hard to see the difference (until one tries to screw the smaller one into the longer hole). The video needs to mention this.

2) The application of the adhesive strip if very different from what is mentioned. Also, there is a “one piece plastic” applique, and it is very unforgiving. The video should show this process in more detail.

I believe the attention to this detail would help folks correctly install their iPhone 6 batteries, and with the recent Apple disclosed battery problem, would continue to show that iFixit is very committed to the end-user.

Gary Long - Reply

Please reconsider this repair!

Before you remove any screws, please consider taking your part to a local repair pro and asking them to install it. The many cables connecting the screen assembly to the body of the iPhone are unruly and hard to reconnect. I knicked a cable and thus rendered the entire assembly and repair unfixable. I consider myself capable and tech savvy, but it’s too easy to make a tiny mistake and ruin your phone.

Bruce Coriell - Reply

I felt a bit silly getting stuck at the end of a long repair, unable to screw one of these last screws back in. What worked was gently pinching the phone above and below the screw, to make sure the screen and back were perfectly aligned.

Matt D - Reply

Apple edits posts on their Communities website that link to this fix page justifying as follows:

“We’ve edited your post because following the procedures at the site you provided may lead to damage to the user’s device.”

What is certain is that following Apple Support’s advice of resetting our phones again and again never works whereas this fix works. Apparently Apple does not want people to know that their hardware fails and can be fixed, because then they would need to explain why they don’t offer neither the fixing service nor the fixing advice by directing us to this website.

Brice - Reply

Before you get started, I suggest you confirm you are replacing the correct camera. If you are thinking of a camera, the front is the side of the device with the main lens. On an iPhone this is actually known as the rear facing camera. Once the phone is disassembled your orientation can be distorted and it is not that hard to fail to realize your are replacing the wrong camera. Doh!

William Miller - Reply

The next three steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 6 that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
  • The next three steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 6 that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down three steps for an alternate method.

  • If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone 6.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

There was only one suction cup in my kit. Why show the need for two if ifixit provides only one?

Lisa Klitses - Reply

Do Not Worry. The Islack comes seprate. This guide shows you how to remove the front screen with a normal suction cup.

Owen -

I found that the single suction cup from the kit worked very well. It didn’t take that much force to separate the front panel from the phone. I think any suction cup that you are able to get a firm grip on will probably work as well. There isn’t any adhesive holding the front panel in. It just snaps in and out. If you have a cracked screen and no screen protector, it may be hard to get a good suction seal. If that’s the case, someone else here suggested applying clear tape to the front glass to get a good surface for applying the suction cup. In my case, I already had a screen protector that was still intact so the suction cup sealed easily.

fiftysomething - Reply

Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups. Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, just above (but not covering) the home button.
  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups.

    • Position the iSclack's upper suction cup against the display, just above (but not covering) the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

Add Comment

Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case. The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the display cables.
  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the display cables.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 8.

The iSclack opened the iPhone 6 with little effort. I could have given even less opening pressure than I did. Fantastic tool. Worth the investment.

Tim Dougherty - Reply

It's never mentioned anywhere that with iSclack even if you save the cables, glass easily detach from plastic frame. When you ri-assembly the phone, this will involve a glass not perfectly adherent to the body. In my opinion is better if you help yourself with a spudger to lift frame from rear case when you are using the iSclack.

marco bigoni - Reply

Holy cow this tool made it so much easier than a spudger and didn't damage anything. Totally worth the investment.

Fratelli '85 - Reply

Really need to get one of these. so much easier then the basic type.

Richard W - Reply

If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:
  • If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

    • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the cup is pressed securely onto the screen to get a tight seal.

This is nearly impossible on a screen that is shattered

Erik Madsen - Reply

You can put clear tape over it. it works.

Owen -

Try putting a strip of packing tape on the screen. That will make the surface smooth and help keep the suction.

Joanna - Reply

John, your lips move but I can't hear what you're saying. ;-)

TimD -

Argh!! Don’t put the suction cup over the home button to pull. While it works, it also breaks the screen at the weak point below the home button. Ask me how I know.

-Tom

tombuy - Reply

While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.
  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

  • Using a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while continuing to pull up with the suction cup.

  • There are several clips holding the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

Pulling up on the suction cup helped get me started, but what worked for me was pulling up gently while sliding the plastic prybar gently along the seam towards the top of the phone (on both sides), and it came open without having to put excess pressure on the suction.

lauren carroll - Reply

Same here, just open the gap a little with the suction cup and then use the opening tool on both sides.

Tobias - Reply

Along with the suction cup I used some Command adhesive strips to hold the bottom of the phone to a workbench as they easily pull/stretch away when you need to remove them!

Dion Sosa - Reply

Suction cup pictured here is the older version (with ring). I have one from my previous battery replacement on iPhone 5 and used that instead. The new one (gray with blue handle) kept on popping off. Overall, popping out screen was not as hard as it seems with these instructions, but do proceed with caution.

youmingc - Reply

Dion's idea to use removable adhesive strips was great, even better, use it to attach the iPhone to a clipboard. This will allow for a sort of Lazy Susan function while you work. I also used adhesive strips to attach my iPhone box to the clipboard as well and used that as a back rest (with rubber band) for the screen as pictured in steps below. This allowed me to very comfortably skip steps 13-19 as others have commented.

Adam - Reply

The new suction cup (plastic handle) is not so suctiony. Prepare for this thing to pop off a couple of times when opening the case.

Chet Seidel - Reply

Be very careful because it feels that it holds very tight but with the last pull it can fly away.

Kristaps Grinbergs - Reply

Be very careful when you pull up the display! Do not keep your other hand on the display surface or you can broke it!

Luke Man - Reply

I did all the suggestions here and it just wasn’t moving until I repositioned the suction cup up over the home button for more leverage. It finally came up enough to slip the plastic opening tool under the edge.

Alan Derrick - Reply

Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup. Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
  • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

  • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

Add Comment

Open the iPhone by swinging the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge. Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge. During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.
  • Open the iPhone by swinging the home button end of the front panel assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

    • Several clips along the top edge of the front panel form a partial hinge.

    • During reassembly, align the clips just below the top edge of the rear case. Then, slide the front panel upward until its top edge is flush with that of the rear case.

It's not clear from the instructions but it is shown correctly in the pictures: when the front panel assembly is just open (at a small angle with the rear case) pull the top edge clips out of the rear case to slightly separate the two components, then swing the front panel assembly away from the rear case. I assume not doing so would potentially damage the connecting ribbon and/or the alignment clips. Just a guess...

ethanlust - Reply

Ein Tipp zum Zusammenbau: Das Display ca. in 45 Grad halten und vorsichtig an die obere Kante des Gehäuses drücken, bis es bündig und glatt anliegt.

Dann das Display langsam und vorsichtig anklappen und die Clips von oben nach unten festdrücken.

SAS - Reply

This entire process went smooth. Final step of re-assembly , the assembly does not seat into the framing. The white gasket seats on one side not the the volume button side. Alignment looks good. How much pressure does one apply on the reassembly?

Bruce Fournier - Reply

My problem is the front panel does not want to joint together with the rear panel… it feel like the front is too big but it look perfect but does not clip in place… Help…

Tony Chicoine - Reply

same problem, in the final step, the screen does not fit entirely. it looks like the size is not 100% correct, but 99%… one side of the case stays open…

Andrea Andreoli - Reply

Same thing here, with a new screen it doesn’t fit quite right during re-assembly. It sits just a little bit higher and doesn’t look seated.

Adam Carl - Reply

Some people have noted that the screen doesn’t seat properly on the case. Here’s how I solved it:

The issue is that rectangular brackets on the back of the display aren’t latching with the corresponding clips in the base. I think the brackets are missing the gap between the spring plate and bracket with the latching bumps on it on the base. Here’s my solution:

Position the top of the display slightly below the top of the case so the clips on the back top of the display start to engage with the phone case. Important: don’t push it all the way up!

Now press both sides of the top part of the display until the display seats on the back. Make sure both sides are flush with the case.

Repeat for the middle of the display. The bottom of the display will remain bent up because it will interfere with the bottom edge of the case.

Now push/slide the display up so the top of the display lines up with the top of the case. The bottom should then snap into the base, and the display should be flush with the case all round.

nigel - Reply

Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone. In a pinch, an unopened canned beverage works well for this. Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • In a pinch, an unopened canned beverage works well for this.

  • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

A picture is worth a thousand words! This idea at Step 9 is perfect and you can definitely do the entire rest of the battery replacement WITHOUT having to disconnect the display from the rear case. Just leave it secured exactly as shown in this picture and you're good to go. I just completed the repair and the most difficult part was just lining up the new battery connector! Excellent instructions and generally EASY repair because this step was so helpful!

Ryan - Reply

I did the same. Made the work go so much smoother!

dcommins - Reply

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - Reply

I'm going to try it this way, because the odds of damaging the connector during removal seem greater than the risk of ripping the cable, however, I plan to cradle the phone in the "L" of simple, sheet metal bookend, and secure it using blue painter's tape. Seems more stable.

bobcloninger - Reply

If you do this step carefully- (rubber band the front panel, and carefully peel away the battery adhesive) you can SKIP 13 THRU 19!

Larry House - Reply

Rubber band and a large can of soup held the front in place. Go slow, steady firm pressure. Take the vibrator out though. Makes pulling the adhesive tape out much easier. Great video and written instructions!

Sherman Homan - Reply

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you WILL tear the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. MUCH Sadness.

todd adelman - Reply

I decided to do the repair on my iPhone 6 without detaching the screen. I ended up screwing two pieces of 3/4” x 3” x 6” wood together at right angles. I used 2 rubber bands to secure the screen to the vertical piece and 1 rubber band to secure the base to the horizontal piece. One of the two adhesive strips broke and I had to really work to get the battery out. The rubber bands held everything together nicely. The wood pieces were slightly wider than the phone which made it easy to hold everything together while I was working the adhesive strip out.

brian - Reply

Mine worked great install went perfect. Was like a new phone… for a couple months. Phone may be failing for other reasons, but there’s a ghost image in the shape of the battery in the display now. Very strange. The ifixit kit did give life to it for a while though.

smahar - Reply

Hey Smahar! If you still have your tools, I’d recommend opening your phone up to make sure the battery isn’t swollen. If it’s pressing against the screen, it’s possible that is the case. If it is swollen, I highly recommend you replace it, it can be dangerous to leave it in place.

Sam Lionheart -

Remove the following Phillips screws from the battery connector bracket:
  • Remove the following Phillips screws from the battery connector bracket:

    • One 2.2 mm screw

    • One 3.2 mm screw

#000 needed here

David Pobuda - Reply

ok well what exactly does 2.2 mm and 3.2 mm mean if a #000 is needed? why even mention those numbers?

Cory Berends -

Those are the screw lengths. They’re important to mention so that you don’t put the longer screw in the wrong place. If you start mixing up screws, you can end up with permanent logic board damage.

Jeff Suovanen -

These screws require a Phillips #000 not Phillips #00 bit.

David Powell - Reply

How do you know that? Just wondering :)

Didier Daniel -

I replace the antenna in the upper left-hand corner an in the bottom middle with the lightning connector because After disassemble it completely i lose my ability to have Cellular. After i replace both antennas i can find i nevertheless have cellular. anybody an idea ?

kupies2011 - Reply

@davidsapowell @David+Pobuda - I've submitted an update per your comments. Thanks for the guidance!

Nate Schley - Reply

With the phillips screwdriver included in the repair kit I cannot unscrew any of the interior screws because it is not the right size even though according to these comments all of the screws are #000 and on the product listing it says that the screwdriver I got is #000. Any suggestions?

Wilson Styres - Reply

Sounds like you need to adjust your technique. The included PH000 driver works fine; I’ve done many many phones with it.

Jeff Suovanen -

Upon reassembly I found the Red 2.2 mm screw won't seat. Is it possible it sheared off? The Orange 3.2 is solid in both holes but 2.2 doesn't securely fit in either.. Should I just leave off the 2.2?

smcgreg - Reply

My phone was missing this screw also!

Gail Starr -

Duh, had the cover on the wrong way. Switched it around and the screw fit. (:

smcgreg - Reply

When I insert the 3.2 mm screw... The phone shuts down, very weird because am not seeing what could cause this short...

Juan Monge - Reply

I’m having the same issue. Thinking about just leaving that screw out. Did you ever get your’s working?

Cavell Blood -

Using the Phillips 000 screwdriver included in the kit, I am able to remove the 3.2 mm screw, but not the 2.2 mm one.

Dan Solovay - Reply

None of the screwdriver heads in this kit are big enough for these screws!!! I now have an open iphone and i have to go to the store to buy a different screwdriver..I do not recommend this

Elaine Eason - Reply

I was unable to unscrew the 2.2mm screw with the provided screwdriver. I was able to unscrew the 3.2mm screw but not the 2.2mm

Jameison Martin - Reply

I'm stuck in the same boat here. The one screw came out no problem but the second isn't catching at all.

Brian Adams - Reply

Stuck with Jameison and Brian here... 2.2mm won't catch with all three provided screwdrivers.

Matthijs Rog - Reply

Agreed, the screwheads included in this kit didn’t work for me either. Fortunately my own toolbox has an appropriate screwdriver…. Seeing as how we are paying for this kit so we don’t need to purchase extra tools, iFixit should really include screwheads that actually work!

Priscilla Cheng - Reply

When putting everything back together, I took care of steps 10-12 (or, more accurately 12-10) after reinserting the SIM (so between steps 20 & 19). It was easier to do before dealing with reconnecting the screen.

dhcohen67 - Reply

why do i buy a kit from you guys but you don’t provide the necessary tools for unscrewing

i dont have any screwdrivers at home the 2.2mm simply wont come off its ridiculous now i just have an open phone

Michael Amara - Reply

bv.gjg jhv /jhv

Michael Amara - Reply

I had to use Phillips #00 for the 3.2mm (orange) and #0 for the 2.2mm (red). The #000 screw driver came in the toolkit is useless on both screws so I had to go out and buy new ones from a hardware store…

Tung-wei Lin - Reply

My two screws are the same diameter - 1.1mm, taking a Philips PH000 driver. However the one toward the middle is 3.3mm long, the one nearer the side is 2.2mm long.

Alastair Lack - Reply

So my kit didn’t come with the right screw driver, I should have read the comments first before buying.

My iPhone 6 battery connector bracket has 3.2mm which the PH000 works. But the 2.2mm didn’t work with included Y000.

What screw driver do I need for the 2.2 mm screw??

John Palaganas - Reply

The heads on both of those screws are identical. The included PH000 is the correct driver. There are no Y000 screws anywhere in the iPhone 6.

Jeff Suovanen -

The Phillips in the repair kit worked fine. I did 2 phones with it.

Eric Craumer - Reply

Just a followup to all the comments above for anyone who is confused: the drivers included in the repair kit work fine, assuming you know how to use a screwdriver correctly in the first place. There are quite a few folks who never learned, and that’s nothing to be ashamed of—in fact it’s common enough that we made a guide for it. Those bits were designed first and foremost to work with iPhone screws and have been extensively, extensively tested. You may come across stubborn screws or strip the heads if you’re not careful, and maybe that’s why some folks here are having trouble. In the very rare event that you actually received a malformed bit of some kind due to a manufacturing defect (which should be clear just from looking at it up close), reach out to customer service and they’ll get you squared away.

Jeff Suovanen - Reply

I just completed the battery replacement and I too found that the PH000 did not sit properly in either the 3.2 or 2.2 mm screws. Using a magnifying glass it seemed that the PH000 driver bit did not sufficiently fill the space of the screw. I happen to have the iFixit Pro Kit and used the PH00 driver bit instead, and this seemed to fill the space of both screws much better leading to successful extraction and replacement. My lack of experience with phone repair may have been a factor, but it seemed at least for my particular phone the PH00 was the proper driver bit for these two screws.

Jimmy Doi - Reply

The PH000 screwdriver I received cannot remove the smaller screw…

Michael Pesenti - Reply

So I spend 34 bucks on a kit of tools to repair my phone and they send the wrong sized screwdriver to get the battery cover off. Awesome. I can get the larger screw out but not the smaller one. What a waste of time and money.

Michael Pesenti - Reply

@michael_pesenti Those screw heads are the same; the screws are just different lengths. If you have the right driver for one, you have the right driver for both, unless someone put your iPhone together with the wrong screws.

Jeff Suovanen -

@jeffsu

Nope. Actually turns out that ifixit just sent me a defective screwdriver that only was poorly sized and only managed to catch one of the screws. I had to order a new PH000 Screwdriver on Amazon and it got the screws out instantly and I was able to repair my phone.

Michael Pesenti - Reply

I used the “Maximum” precision set from Canadian Tire and the PH#00 works nicely for both these screws.

Matt - Reply

Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.
  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Why in the YouTube video do you skip removing the battery connector

mjcoughlin70 - Reply

Where to buy this bracket?

syidan - Reply

One of the screws is longer than the other, use it for the higher inside hole.

Bobby Slone - Reply

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Take care to only pry up on the battery connector, and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

I skipped steps 13-19 and just left the front panel rubber banded while I removed the battery. I just made sure to be careful while removing the adhesive strips so as not to move around the body of the phone too much. Skipping the steps made the whole process much faster and easier.

Tonima Chaudhury - Reply

I wish I had done that.

Gail Starr -

Thanks for this awesome tip. Made the replacement go much smoother - saved me from removing all those other screws. I also recommend watching the ifixit battery adhesive strip video before proceeding with step 21.

Andy Milne -

Me too, no need to detach the screen (when you take care),

Tom Long -

In trying to replace my antenna flex cable, I attempted to skip steps 13-19 but eventually gave up around step 31/32 as I simply didn’t have the access I needed - the space was just too cramped with the screen still attached and I was afraid I would break something. If you’re a novice, don’t have good lighting and a magnifying glass, etc. you may just want to go ahead and perform 13-19. (Yes it will take extra time of course.)

Perrin Haley -

I also skipped steps 13-19 after reading the first comment.

youmingc - Reply

I skipped those steps too and was successful. Thanks for this tip!

jaksbackpack - Reply

Can disconnecting the battery connector while power is on ruin the backlight? Or can disconnecting the power connector at a different stage ruin the back light?

mitch Toler - Reply

You should power down the phone before disconnecting the battery. That said, the backlight should be fine. A blown backlight circuit is most commonly caused by disconnecting the display when the battery is still connected.

Jeff Suovanen -

I did open the lcd without disconnecting the battery and my lcd wouldn't working

Reza I. Permana -

Thanks for that tip Tonima! This is another confirmation that skipping steps 13-19 worked out great!

As an extra measure, in addition to leaving the front panel rubber banded in it's open, vertical position (I secured mine to a can of beans) and being very careful and controlled when removing the adhesive strips; before using the suction cup to separate the front panel from the rear case, I had secured the back side of the rear case to my working surface (kitchen table) with a strip of folded over duct tape (creating double sided tape). Such might not have been necessary as I held the rear case with one hand while removing the adhesive strips with the other, though it just felt safer having the rear case (as well as the front panel) well secured in place to help assure that I didn't accidentally cause any damage to those very fragile looking cables that were left connected, by any possible movements of either of the iPhone's halfs during the pulling to remove the adhesive strips.

Russ Levey - Reply

It happened to me, by prying the battery connector with another tool I broke part of the socket off the board. However, by placing it exactly back in place the connector could be placed correctly and it works. Lucky.

Udo Schuehle - Reply

I'd like a little more explanation on how to re-attach the battery connector. But in the end I lined it up and pressed gently down till it snapped into place.

Garret Gray - Reply

I skipped the steps removing the screen only because I didn't feel confident at all doing this. For someone who is used to electronics I would really suggest removing it because I imagine the whole process would've been easier. If there's a next time, perhaps I'll do that.

Garret Gray - Reply

The suggestions that recommend skipping step 13-19 apply to some other repair. We replaced the display, and to do so, steps 13-19 are, of course, necessary.

Gabriel Zachmann - Reply

When replacing the battery you should prepare the cable to sit in exactly as you see it in the picture. I had mine all the way back in (with sticky strips) and had to find a way to fit the cable in with the weird way it bends. Dry fit the battery with cable in place - lesson learned.

Chet Seidel - Reply

Good idea. All the instructions were great until I got to the last thing- reattaching the battery connector! I like your recommendation to dry fit the connector so you can get the right bend to the connector ribbon first.

Tom Rohrer -

I wish I had seen this also, I feel like this should be in the guide. Mine seems to be working out but I had to force the connector into place a little bit.

Kevin Harvey -

I wish I had seen this first! I also had the issue, now I have a permanent discoloration of the screen where the connector is pushing against the back. Hoping that it doesnt lead to other problems. This site is really lacking on the reassembly steps… shame..

thomasjmaclean - Reply

I'm just wondering if my computer would still recognize my phone with the battery disconnected?

Sare - Reply

It appears that I haven’t properly connected the battery back up, since the hard reset didn’t work. I did my best to connect the battery before adhering it to the battery spot, but the connector doesn’t seem to “click” or otherwise confirm that it is properly positioned. The left side of the connector (closest to the battery) seemed slightly raised, which made me wonder if I had done it correctly. So I’m probably going to have to try using my last adhesive strips to lay it in better to allow for a better connection. I’m also worried that I may have damaged the connection spot. Is there anywhere on here where this is discussed? This is my second battery replacement, but first on this particular phone, which is apparently a refurbished one (and which has a slightly different looking connector cover).

Alex Kosmider - Reply

Ah, it helps to discover that it’s actually a 6S rather than a 6.

Alex Kosmider -

For those of you replacing the Digitizer you to need follow steps 13 - 19.

lowestseries - Reply

Doing a lightning connector replacement - skipped steps 13-19 as well. No problems.

cambo.robertson - Reply

Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:
  • Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    • One 3.1 mm screw

  • Incorrect placement of these screws during reassembly will cause permanent damage to your iPhone's logic board.

Be careful when replacing the screws, not to accidentally put the 1.7mm screw into the center hole, where the 1.2 screw belongs. This can cause "Long Screw" damage, and render your phone unusable.

damianodessgillett - Reply

I don't have the magnetic pad but use duct tape face up in a tray. I write the step number and color of the screw on the sticky surface and let the screw stand heads up on the goo. The screw is presented for the driver when reassembling.

griffn - Reply

Can't stress enough how important it is not to mix up these screws! Using the 1.7mm screw for the lower left fixing will cause "long screw damage" and kill the backlight on the phone. I believe @damianodessgillett made the same point. Wish we could display a small warning message here to be extra careful for future fixers!

kev - Reply

I use a screw ID technique similar to griffn's; I print out the PDF version of the guide, then Scotch-tape each screw type to the guide at the step where the screw was removed. The screws are then distinguished by size and type at the point where they need to be reinstalled.

adlerpe - Reply

i am trying but only could open 2 screws and cannot open the rest of them, can you help me??

girlsrock742 - Reply

@girlsrock742 - I'm new here, but from what I've seen, questions like yours don't get answered. I have 2 suggestions:

# Be more specific about what your issue is.

# Make sure you're using the right screwdriver. (Get a magnifying glass & make sure the screwdriver fits nicely in the screwhead.) This guide is included in a guide I'm looking at, and my guide has a comment that #000 phillips is required for the battery connector bracket above, not #00 as documented. (That comment did not convey to this guide....)

Good luck!

Nate Schley - Reply

Thanks to @griffn & @adlerpe! I've updated the tools list to include the magnetic pad, and -- for us infrequent fixers -- I made a note in the intro text to describe the sort of thing you two noted here in place of the mag pad.

Also, to @damianodessgillett & @kev - I've submitted an update to the instructions to add the caution you recommend to the step. Hopefully others will avoid the pain of the Long Screw damage.

Nate Schley - Reply

It's possible to damage only a slot of flex cable ? I've opened my iPhone 6 but now front camera, speaker and the proximity sensor are not working. I've bought a new flex cabe to test it, but I have to be sure about that.

cruz.giovanni - Reply

I'm so worried I'm going insert the wrong screw. Does anyone have any suggestions to knowing how to properly tell the size of each screw? I bought a screw set and a magnetic pad but still have the same issue. Not knowing the correct placement of each screw. I'd definitely appreciate any help.

Patric - Reply

Hi Patric! We use a set of calipers to measure our screws, failing that you could use a very fine ruler. If you don't have any kind of measuring equipment, line the screws up on the magnetic mat and sort them by size there. Ideally you only have screws from this step! If you are trying to determine the size of all the screws in this guide, it's probably best to get a real ruler/caliper for the fine distinctions.

Sam Lionheart -

Do you have to remove the display to replace the battery?

Michael Aguilera - Reply

It's not absolutely necessary to remove the display, I kept my display propped up throughout the operation. Removal of the display doesn't seem to offer any particular benefit, unless you have problems with the adhesive strips.

Adam - Reply

Hi. I messed up with the screws in the cover guard sheet for the display ribbon and my iPhone 6 plus isn't turning on. Does that mean the logic board is dead or the battery ? Should I throw the phone in the garbage can ?

nzf - Reply

Did anyone even answer your question? I'm having the same issue

Sare -

I can confirm it's not necessary to remove anything other than battery bracket. If you support the screen against something as in the picture, just make sure you hold the iPhone absolutely still with one hand while pulling out the adhesive strips with the other. I also used a small piece of tape to hold the screen in place against the box while I worked.

I am now a very happy customer and am looking forward to another few years life from my awesome iPhone 6!

Matt Whiteley - Reply

There is no need to do this step. No need to remove these 5 screws. Just make sure the screen is propped up against something strong and this step is unnecessary for the proper removal and re-insertion of battery.

arunhn - Reply

I left the front panel connected and it was much quicker. But, if you have to wrestle with the battery, it is much safer with the front panel removed. If you have worked on a few phone before, I'd try removing the battery with the front panel connected. If the battery is giving you problems(like if you tear the strips and have to heat the backside), you can always come back to this step.

Joel Horie - Reply

I strongly recommend you leave the display connectors alone if you can. My battery came out without a fight, but I found the display connectors to be almost tragically delicate, and I had white lines in the display when I booted it. During the subsequent attempts to remedy that situation, things went down hill and now I'm waiting for an entirely new display to try to rescue the phone from repair oblivion.

kevin hekman - Reply

I also skipped all of the screen-removal steps and had nary a problem. Just rubber band the screen around whatever it is propped against and I believe you'll be fine.

Billy Bob Baler - Reply

Hello! I put the screws on in the wrong order and I believe my backlight is dead, iTunes still recognizes my phone when I plug it in, but the screen is blank. Is it possible to replace the logic board or is the phone useless forever?

Tanya Lyn Willard - Reply

You probably connected the cables wrong, try doing this step again and carefully correct your cables.

June Beltran -

Remove each screw, tape it to a piece of letter paper, mark what spot it came out of. red, yellow, orange and the 3 reds. This way you can not possibly put them back in the wrong spots.

smahar -

I totally recommend doing this step first before removing the battery connector bracket, it will be much easier and comfortable with the screen out of the way.

Also I recommend drawing the bracket on a piece of paper and place the screws on top of the respective position on the drawing, this way you won't be confused when putting them back.

June Beltran - Reply

I accidentally lost a 1.2mm screw while doing a screen replacement. Will this make the phone malfunction in anyway after I close it back up or its fine?

Walter White - Reply

DO NOT DO THIS STEP. It is totally unnecessary to remove the connectors, and they are a really big pain to put back in, and there is risk of damaging them, and it adds a lot of time to the process of replacing the battery. Just securely prop up the front panel, and then if you gently heat the back of the phone when removing the adhesive strips, the battery comes off easily. I could have saved myself about 2 hours and a lot of frustration if I had just left these connectors in. I wish the instructions here would just include this step (connector removal) ONLY IF the battery doesn't come out easily.

J Marr - Reply

Exactly, just like J, Marr indicates, this step is not necessary. Just make sure you're careful to not move the phone too much, otherwise you can damage the film connectors. Other than that I even heated my phone to remove the adhesive, and thank God, nothing bad happened to it.

Mc Floyd -

It’s only necessary if you’re like me an need to fix the screen or water damage (mine fell in water…)

jacobdanderson -

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - Reply

How can't you do step 33 if you don't do 13-19? iPhone 6.

predylindsay - Reply

I'm missing something here, I want to swap out the screen. How does one skip steps 13-19 if wanting to remove the screen?

BW Lee - Reply

Any tips for removing the 1.2 mm screws? Mine won't budge at all with the PH000 and I'm afraid I'm stripping the screws.

MClare - Reply

I had to use the larger bit for ALL of the screws as the small one was too narrow at the tip to actually grab anything. It worked but made it a bit more difficult.

Heather Best - Reply

Is it really necessary to remove the front panel at all, can't you just ask a friend to hold it in an upright position while you work on the battery?

Peter - Reply

I also skipped steps 13 - 19. Just be very careful not to apply to much stress to the connectors in between the screen and the base. For me I also used another box to keep the base from sliding around while removing the battery.

Patrick Reed - Reply

You cannot skip these steps, of course, when you want to replace the display (which was the kind of repair we did).

When putting the little connectors in place again afterwards, I can recommend to hold the connectors to the display using a little rubber band. That way, they don’t get in the way when you put them in place one by one.

Gabriel Zachmann - Reply

You SHOULD do the steps of removing the display. I have done battery replacements on several dozen phones. Of the ones I did NOT remove the cables, 2 of them had issues directly related to components related to these cables (front facing camera, earpiece speaker, etc.). Although tedious, I recommend removing these connectors to prevent any short circuit when reconnecting the new battery.

ACMT - 4 years.

jonbessom - Reply

I skipped this step and just affixed the screen to the Iphone box with a rubber band during replacement. I decided to take this risk to prevent some of the other issues that have been discussed when removing the screen. I understand it is risky because if you slip or need to use any significant force to remove the battery, disaster awaits. On my repair, it worked out fine and I ensured that I took my time and kept the bottom of the phone held to the worksurface.

Michael Kirkpatrick - Reply

There are only 2 screws when i opened mine.The centre one and the left top corner one..Is it okay to use it like that..Please help

Naresh Annepu - Reply

If you can try to leave your display how it is. I removed it and it ended with white stripes and touchscreen not working. After a while it touch started to work and stripes went away. I think it was static electricity.

Kristaps Grinbergs - Reply

If you decide to go ahead with this step… I did it prior to removing the battery bracket and found it to be easier. Having the screen off made things a lot easier during the battery removal process.

Eric Craumer - Reply

Two of the screws are damaged and I can’t open them. What can I do to remove the bracket?

L He - Reply

Stay organized with the screws with just a piece of paper. Lay them out, mark ‘em up. Go slow, take your time.

Sherman Homan - Reply

I'm noticing some questions I have that others are asking yet no one is answering. You're all talking about the same problem that I find completely pointless. If you skip steps and it works, good for you move on. There are real questions being asked. Someone asked about losing a screw, would that effect anything? You all talk about the importance of having the screws organized, yet don't explain if someone either loses the screws or have them put into the wrong places. Since no one talks about it, I figured it wasn't as important as you all claim it is. Now my phone seems to not want to do anything anymore. Stop arguing with each other about something so miniscule like skipping steps. 40 comments on this part and 5 people actually have real problems but no answers. So, if anyone actually took the time to read this, my questions are; what happens if the screws are put in the wrong order?(other than the obvious long screw damage) and what happens if we put the phone back together without some screws?

Sare - Reply

@sarery I’m a little puzzled by your question. If you’re not willing to put the screws back in the right place as instructed, despite all the warnings in both the guide and the comments, why would you want to attempt this repair in the first place? But nevertheless I will try to answer. Some screws, if left out, have no noticeable effect. That’s the best you can hope for. Other screws perform a vital function such as providing a path to ground. Some screws are made of nonferrous materials—getting those mixed up can interfere with things like compass functionality. And putting a wrong screw pretty much anywhere can result in cross-threading or component damage. The reason we go to the trouble of providing all these screw markings and measurements is to help you put your phone back together in perfect working order. Which you may still be able to do, if you are careful, and patient. Good luck.

Jeff Suovanen -

Thank you very much for that information. That's all I and I believe some other people were curious about.

That's what I thought this website was for, not post fighting over who's the smarter one and not putting others down. This isn't Facebook

Sare - Reply

well said Sare - perhaps if folk stuck to the subject instead of proving how clever they are (not) there wouldn’t be 44 comments to scroll through to find an intelligent answer

philbjh - Reply

For those who are removing the digitizer, you do need to remove the bracket to get access to cable.

lowestseries - Reply

Definitely do NOT disconnect the screen for the battery replacement!

The battery replacement worked like a charm but now I am left with whit e stripes in the screen and touch screen functionality is lost despite many tries to get the screen reconnected.

Indiana Jones - Reply

Hello, well I accidentally put the screws back in the wrong order after replacing the charging port, phone turns on but stays on Apple screen, any suggestions? Thank you

d.rando90 - Reply

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Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.
  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

Add Comment

In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets on the logic board. Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.
  • In the next four steps, take care to pry up only on the cable connectors, and not on their sockets on the logic board.

  • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

I can not get these electrical connections to reconnect. If there is some secret to this it should be noted. I now have a phone all taken apart and can not get it back together. It makes no sense to only give directions to take a phone apart and not to put it back together.

douglas hughes - Reply

Use sideways bright light and peek underneath as you mate the contacts to align properly. Press very gently and evenly. Others have written that too much pressure in the center may warp the contact.

mahoffman - Reply

I'm having the same problem as above...really upset and frustrated at this point. :( 2/4 connectors (top and right) will 'click' just fine...the other two (bottom two) for the life of me wont connect!!!! :( any suggestions? i feel like i have tried everything. Sucks that is only thing stopping me screen from being repaired....

alyssaavaldezz - Reply

Hi alyssa. Were you able to connect the cables? I am having the same problem

Veronica del Rio -

regarding cable connects - if two of the ribbon cables are not properly overlapped around each other, then it will appear as if cable #2 will need to plug into the closest jack, which is actually for cable#3. Look at the two connectors carefully - they are opposite gender and can't be interchanged.

David Panak - Reply

This is good advice, and usually the problem people experience here. There is a very specific way the ribbon cables are layered, and if not correct when reassembled, the reach of the cables will cause you to assume which cable goes where and to try to insert the wrong plugs into the wrong sockets. Please do not try to force them. If they don't snap in easily, examine them closely, and you'll see the plugs and sockets are slightly different sizes, with one wider than the other. Better to take care to note how the cables layer during disassembly, or perhaps mark them to avoid this frustration on reassembly.

gybeho -

Check order of cables. From screen replacement.

lee moran - Reply

my problem is that the connectors are different the screen i replaced it with the connectors were longer than the broken screen even though there the exact same type of screen

andrew midgett - Reply

Probably just have the cables out of order. Check the posts above.

gybeho - Reply

"gybeho" Ok, but it's impossible to install flex cables out of order. Each one has diferent sizes of docking...

cruz.giovanni - Reply

it is very possible to install flex cables out of order. to most people working on their first screen replacement they do not have the experience to notice that their flex cable connection is different than the dock connection. this causes them to press harder and force the connection into the dock, ruining the connections, if they do not think the they have the cables out of order

Dakota Navarrete - Reply

I'm with Andrew Midgett. The connectors are just plain different in size and orientation. My phone matches what's shown in the picture above. You can see an example of the replacement part if you search Amazon for "Sanka LCD Touch Screen Digitizer Frame Assembly Full Set Screen Replacement for iPhone 6". And Sanka isn't the only iPhone 6 replacement that looks like that, so no hating on that manufacturer here.

Does this mean that some iPhone 6 phones have one set of connectors and some have a different set? FWIW, the model on the back of my phone says A1549.

PG McLaughlin - Reply

Update: Searching for iPhone 6S instead of 6 on Amazon, I see lots of replacement screens with connectors that look a lot more like what I have and what's shown in the picture above. (One connector has a horizontal orientation, the other is vertical. I can't be sure whether the pins or dimensions match otherwise.) Any wisdom here?

PG McLaughlin - Reply

Had the same problem with the correct layering of cable harnesses. Perhaps an additional photo showing the correct layering would be helpful for 1st timers?

William Breen - Reply

+1 for a photo showing the correct layering and routing of cables. I accidentally routed the home button ribbon above the digitizer ribbon and beneath the power and backlight ribbons. The uneven pressure it put on the digitizer connector after tightening the plate caused my digitizer to not recognize touching the display or made touches appear off center.

drpotter -

For everybody who thinks they can skip these steps I commend you. No way I would have been able to get my battery out - two broken strips - without removing the screen. Re-inserting these cables was not really difficult - once the first one is back in place the rest follow quickly.

Chet Seidel - Reply

I tried to reconnect these for ages until I watched a video of someone else doing it.

Don’t try to line up the connectors by looking at them with the screen leaning on a soda can, just hold the two halves in each hand and line the first one up by feel. Really. After that it’s plain sailing.

Even with great lighting I couldn’t make this work with the bits on the bench - yet when I picked them up it was really easy to feel them line up. I had all four popped back on in about 60 seconds.

Pitt Monqui - Reply

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the home button cable connector. Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the home button cable connector.
  • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the home button cable connector.

Muy buenas....una pregunta tecnica...si el botón falla o no está bien conectado...al conectar este conector ¿ se apagaría el teléfono?. Repare mi iphone y al conectarlo se me apaga el movil, sin embargo si no lo enchufo el movil enciende perfectamente.

Gracias.

Berta fernandez - Reply

Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step. Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the display data cable connector.
  • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

  • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the display data cable connector.

  • When reassembling your phone, the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.

you missed the name of the second connctor. there are four total

copykatt - Reply

My screen is completely black and i can see the lights turning on when i press the home or lock button. Maybe this cable got damaged ?

Gabriel Hirata - Reply

Perhaps you bought a faulty screen. Often this is the case when it shows completely black.

William Mullan - Reply

When I was preforming this step, while reassembling, I had to connect the digitizer cable four times. On the last time, before screwing the Front Panel Assembly Cable Bracket on, I reconnected the battery connector and turned my phone on (ensuring that I was careful not to damage any cables!) to ensure that all cables were connected correctly and that the screen was fully functional.

Christopher - Reply

NO NO NO ! i am a professional iphone repairman and i strongly recommend against using ANY tool to disconnect the flex connectors if u slip or use to much force you will damage the connector and may cause permanent damage to the phones logic board rendering it completely UNrepairable! Instead gently use the edge of your fingernail and pry up and the connectors will usually come off with very little effort .

taylor sparks - Reply

Fingernails work great as well! However, there's nothing wrong with using a tool, as long as you exercise a little caution. If you've ever seen one of Apple's iPhone service manuals, you'll note that they use the exact same tool as iFixit (Apple calls it a "black stick" and iFixit dubs it a "spudger.")

Jeff Suovanen -

I'm pretty sure ifixit are pros, I used them 4 times to fix phones and no problems with using tools for flex cables.

Dave - Reply

If you still have white lines after you've tried reconnecting the connectors and power cycling. Just do a hard reset a few more times, let the phone stay on and wait a while. As long as it's not damaged, the lines will fade over the next hour or so. Your phone will be as good as new.

grjos - Reply

If my screen is giving me white lines and occasional ghost clicks on the right side does anyone know if it’s possibly only a faulty cable vs needing a full screen swap? I’d rather not waste a perfectly good screen.

Andrew Hill - Reply

what if my phone wont turn back on even after following all these steps carefully . i even put the old screen back on and it wont turn on still???

Daniel Murcia - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector. When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

  • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Reassembly was harder than other i devices I have worked on. A bench light from the side helped a lot with the first cable, the digitizer. The others went a bit better in this crowded space. I had screen lines when testing it out before closing the top, so reinstalled all four connectors here with the aid of a side light and happily, that worked!

griffn - Reply

i crossed over the first two cables initially, when re-assembled; make sure by the WIDTH that you are trying to connect them in the right order.

awr - Reply

How many times can i peel these connections without braking the connection between screen and logic borad

falken1337 - Reply

Is this the breaking down process for the Verizon version of the iPhone 6s? I know the flex cables were different for other versions and with my last iPhone I made the mistake of ordering one that had completely different cable places. Someone please send me a link to one that fits the Verizon 4.7 display!!!

Bailey Duncan - Reply

This break down isn't for a 6S. It is for a plain 6 (no S). Yes there is some differences because of the 3D touch feature.

Keith Mullins - Reply

So what is the fix if there is digitizer damage? Replacing the screen?

After reinstallation, I am encountering issues with an area of the screen that is not responding to touch. Everything else works fine.

Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed?

Jonathan Rivera - Reply

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to Place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

// Simon

Simon Tengstrand -

I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector).

Simon Tengstrand -

I had the most issues when reassembling with this step. The plastic tool is a fail in my experience since not enough pressure could be applied using it. I just ended up using my finger and that worked 10Xs better. My advice, watch a few YouTube videos of people reconnecting the connectors and you'll be fine.

grjos - Reply

I have dis-connected and reconnected several times with the white line appearing each time. The screen however seems to be responsive. I did lose a 1.2 mm screw. Is it the missing screw or did I damage the digitizer connection?

Charlotte - Reply

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

I had three screws left when I did some repairs on my iphone 4 and that didn't matter. It worked like a charm :)

// Simon

Simon Tengstrand -

I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector)

Simon Tengstrand -

Be especially careful in this step or your iPhone won’t respond to your touch after reassembling.

Ume Nishikino - Reply

My home screen button is not working after reassembly, not only the Touch ID but the actual button doesn't work. I have iPhone 6S . How can I fix this? Thanks

Sissy -

I noticed that I had bent this connector. Barely. After about a dozen connect/reconnect attempts, bent it back and everything works as intended. Prior to bending it, was getting white lines and touchscreen was unresponsive. After bending and reconnecting, fired up exactly as it had prior to disassembly.

Heywoz - Reply

Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.
  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Is it not possible to start here? Just leave the screen assembly attached and only replace the home button?

Joeri Boersen - Reply

Please don’t do that. You will break your cables almost assuredly if you leave it attached to your phone trust me

Curtis Jordan Lenox - Reply

Is front camera supposed to be attached to the digitizer?

Neos Kosmos - Reply

Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray. Press to eject the tray.
  • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

  • Press to eject the tray.

  • This may require a significant amount of force.

Why isn’t this the first step in the process? Seems unnecessarily risky to fumble with popping the SIM in and out when you’ve already opened up the phone.

Perrin Haley - Reply

Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the iPhone.
  • Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the iPhone.

  • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

Add Comment

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Lightning connector assembly cable and fold it out of the way of the speaker. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Lightning connector assembly cable and fold it out of the way of the speaker.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Lightning connector assembly cable and fold it out of the way of the speaker.

How vital is that foam looking piece on top of the antenna cable connector? It popped off when I was lifting.

Carter Christie - Reply

Same thing happened to me. I hope it's not too vital!

paulflicker - Reply

you did not show the removal of battery bracket.

Richard Anderson - Reply

Use the point of a spudger to lift the antenna cable connector up off of its socket on the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to lift the antenna cable connector up off of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the point of a spudger to lift the antenna cable connector up off of its socket on the logic board.

Definitely was a very small snug fitting connector.

ronjon40 - Reply

ripped off the foam on top while trying to pry it out. Also careful not to pull the entire logic board while doing this

Jordan Leong - Reply

Ah, isn't that a bugger to get back in place after finished repairs! Be patient! Position and gently press. If no click, reposition and try again... time an time again. Did I say, be patient?

Lars Andersson - Reply

Yes to this. Listen for that satisfying click…

Christa -

I found that this is not the best tool for removing this component.. The connector is round and the the pointed tip of the tool makes it very easy to slip off the connector and do damage to other components. As I was trying to disconnect the connector, the tool slipped and tore the wire out of the connector. The flat end of the spudger seems like it would work better.

Trent Warner - Reply

Yes, the flat end of the spudger works definitely better.

Alexander Kvasov -

(I had to do this step to replace the antenna flex cable)

I couldn’t pull this connector at all. Tried tip of spudger, flat end of spudger, my nail (which even got a dent in the process ^^) and finally the tweezers (I know, risky) but the little bastard wouldn’t come off…

I managed to pull out the logic board very carefully and twisted it in the least straining way for the cable to access the flex cable on the back.

In the end everything was fine and the repair worked ok.

Switching this step for this repair can be ok if you are extra carefull with twisting the cable

Tug - Reply

I found this step the most difficult both during disassembly and assembly. I only had a flat end of a spludger and this seemed to work pretty good, but definitely required patience to remove it. In recconnecting, be just as patient!

Bill - Reply

I found this the most difficult step, both for disassembly and assembly. I only had a flat ended spludger, but it worked ok…just require a lot of patience and careful manipulation. The same amount of patience was required to put the connector back.

Bill - Reply

Found it easiest to go beneath the cable (on the opposite side from what’s shown on the photos) and leverage from there, using tip of spudger.

Helge Fahrnberger - Reply

What antenna does this cable attach to? I’m trying to determine if this would be the cellular antenna.

kris - Reply

If you just need to look under the logic board to check for corrosion you can skip this step and just maneuver the logic board afterwords (I accidentally did this and it worked just fine and I didnt’ have to worry about putting the wire back in.

jacobdanderson - Reply

I lost the little black foam on top of this connector :(

It was not very well glued, I think I lost it while removing the whole logic board. I put some little piece of insulating tape. It seems everything works after reassembling, so…

Julien-Pierre - Reply

i broke this cable. Lol.

until now “no service”. haha

Aiman Jamali - Reply

Remove the following Phillips screws from the upper cable bracket:
  • Remove the following Phillips screws from the upper cable bracket:

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 2.2 mm screw

I reached till this step to replace the antenna cable using the toolkit I ordered with the cable from ifixit shop. But I could not open the orange marked screw in this step and had to roll back the whole thing as I did not want to destroy the screw by applying force. It seems to me the #000 philips screw driver bit I got is poor quality as I had trouble opening the small red screws as well.

Any recommendation for better quality #000 Phillips screw driver?

Suhaib Khalid - Reply

Put the phone on a solid surface (table or countertop), hold the screwdriver exactly vertical, press it down hard on the screw head, and turn. That’s all it takes! You’re not going to hurt anything by pressing down firmly. Some screws just require a little more force, and using a different screwdriver won’t change anything.

Jeff Suovanen -

Remove the upper cable bracket from the iPhone. Remove the upper cable bracket from the iPhone.
  • Remove the upper cable bracket from the iPhone.

Add Comment

When disconnecting the following connectors, only pry up on the connector, not the socket on the logic board or you risk permanent damage. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the power button and flash assembly cable connector up off of its socket. Lift the volume control cable connector up out of its socket on the logic board.
  • When disconnecting the following connectors, only pry up on the connector, not the socket on the logic board or you risk permanent damage.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the power button and flash assembly cable connector up off of its socket.

  • Lift the volume control cable connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

This is the most challenging piece in wrapping up the repair. any suggestions, anyone?

Adrian V - Reply

Remove the following four Phillips screws from the Wi-Fi antenna:
  • Remove the following four Phillips screws from the Wi-Fi antenna:

    • One 1.5 mm screw

    • One 1.4 mm screw

    • Two 2.1 mm screws

unable to get 1.4mm screw out with included 000 ph driver. Any ideas?

David Craig - Reply

I´m unable to remove all 4 screws with the tools provided

Renato Caicedo - Reply

The 1.5 mm screw got stripped. Any ideas?

John Galvin - Reply

I can’t get the 1.4 and 1.5 screws out even after reading how to unscrew properly. Worried I am stripping screws.

Mareque Ireland - Reply

Try a #0 driver and be patient. Had to push down a bit to ensure connection with the screw but worked for me.

Chris Reimer - Reply

Remove the Wi-Fi antenna from the iPhone. Be careful not to touch any metal to metal contact points with your bare fingers—use tweezers or gloves. Finger oils may disrupt conductivity. If you do touch any of these components, clean them with a degreaser like windex or isopropyl alcohol before reassembly.
  • Remove the Wi-Fi antenna from the iPhone.

  • Be careful not to touch any metal to metal contact points with your bare fingers—use tweezers or gloves. Finger oils may disrupt conductivity. If you do touch any of these components, clean them with a degreaser like windex or isopropyl alcohol before reassembly.

Add Comment

Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips screws from the grounding bracket.
  • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips screws from the grounding bracket.

I have assembled an iPhone 6 and it seems that everything goes fine except the NFC. The phone does not respond to the POS when using Apple Pay. I think there should be some poor connection between the logic board and NFC antenna. If so, which screws should I scrutinise to fix this problem? Thank you.

facebook - Reply

These two little screws are in pretty tight.

Matt Lobban - Reply

I could not for the life of me get the screw on the left side out! But with the right hand screw out I was able to proceed and lift the logic board out without removing the bracket.

Kayleigh Steele - Reply

It’s not really a “grounding” bracket, but rather the RF connection to the combined 2.4GHz WiFi/GPS/BT/Diversity cellular antenna integrated in the top bezel. Thus it’s essential that you get a good electrical connection, otherwise your RF stuff won’t work.

Dormouse - Reply

I CANNOT get these screws out!

Becky n - Reply

Remove the grounding bracket from the iPhone. Remove the grounding bracket from the iPhone.
  • Remove the grounding bracket from the iPhone.

Add Comment

Remove the following Phillips screws securing the angled logic board bracket. One 2.6 mm screw
  • Remove the following Phillips screws securing the angled logic board bracket.

    • One 2.6 mm screw

    • One 1.3 mm screw, located horizontally in the upper sidewall of the iPhone.

Is there an easy way to remove the 1.3MM screw in here I can't eem to remove it by hand.

sem schilder - Reply

I'm having the same problem, did you manage to remove it?

Daniel Villanis -

I faced it today, You can use a 1.5mm flat head screw driver to remove it. The guide mentions this in step 36 for stand-off screw. Hope iFIX changes the guide to indicate the flat screw driver or remove the step here.

Anand Parthasarathy - Reply

Not sure we're talking about the same screw—this is definitely a Phillips (as shown in the photo), not a standoff. It's usually easiest with a dedicated Phillips driver, as opposed to the interchangeable bit drivers, which are fatter and a little tougher to angle in correctly.

Jeff Suovanen -

Jeff, you are right, The instructions indicate a flat head screw driver. Since I ordered the kit with the part, it is easy to assume this will be part of it. My revised comment would be to highlight that the kit would not include it if pairing with the antenna cable replacement part order. Regarding the screw, big picture did not show the screw in orange, I mistook it as the one in later step. You are right it seems to be Phillips as shown in second small picture.

Anand Parthasarathy -

I wasn't able to remove horizontal screw, but was able to continue on with the remaining steps with no problems. The logic board slid from below the angled logic board bracket.

Gar Galen - Reply

I wasn't able to remove the horizontal screw either and moved on with no problems as well. Thanks for the tip!

Kelsey Chesnut -

Also unable to remove the horizontal 1.3mm phillips screw, but it was OK as it didn’t prevent me from proceeding with later steps.

Perrin Haley -

Same for me. Couldn’t get it out, left it in - worked perfectly.

And by the way - thanks sooooo much for the comments guys - helped me a lot through this repair!

Wusels -

I’m struggling to remove 2.6 mm screw. The head seems to be very worn. It’s the only screw left, holding the board to the case. I tried to unscrew it at different angles, applying pressure. Nothing is working. Any ideas how to remove it?

Joanna Kastelik - Reply

Stripped screws are a nightmare and there are no guarantees. If it’s only mildly stripped, you can try going up one size on your screwdriver and using a good amount of downward pressure. But if it starts to strip again, stop before you do any more damage. Try some of the additional techniques in the stripped screw guide. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

This is not just a mechanical bracket, but the upper cellular antenna tuning connection to the top bezel antenna. Thus it needs a good electrical connection, or your cell coverage will be bad.

Dormouse - Reply

To elaborate; When reassembling, the 2.6mm screw needs to go in quite tight, since it squeezes a small rise in the “angled logic board bracket” (really a connector between antenna tuner and the top bezel antenna) against a small gold pad on the main logic board.

This electrical connection needs to work, else the dynamic antenna tuning won’t work - which will cause problems in radio band switching (for instance between 3G and 4G, or different 4G bands). A typical indication that you have a problem here is that it can temporarily be “fixed” by squeezing the top of the phone. It’s really a crappy design choice by Apple.

Dormouse -

I also proceeded without removing the 1.3mm screw and continued on with the remaining steps with no problems. Gar Galen (above) was correct - “The logic board slid from below the angled logic board bracket.”

Joey Imperatori - Reply

Couldn’t get the 1.3mm screw out but it didn’t stop me

Tessa Baker - Reply

Remove the angled logic board bracket. Remove the angled logic board bracket.
  • Remove the angled logic board bracket.

The right side of the bracket may be under some black tape that may need to be removed to allow you to remove the bracket.

Doug Whyte - Reply

Yes, further, It never came out for me. But, I lifted slightly and that was enough for board to slide out. Did not want to force the palstic/rubber part to avoid breaking it.

Anand Parthasarathy - Reply

I broke the part where the screw connecting it to the logic board goes. The metal part is still okay just the screw won't go in. Will it still work?

Neel Nani - Reply

Remove the single 1.2 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna interconnect cable to the logic board.
  • Remove the single 1.2 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna interconnect cable to the logic board.

Make sure to tighten these screws well when reassembling so you don't have issues with cellular reception. Had a phone that wouldn't connect to cellular connection after a screen replacement. I tightened the screw and it started working again.

Christian Abreu - Reply

If you got those strips you will have to remove the screen again and make sure you're plugging properly all the flex cables to the lógica board. Try to push them from the right to the left side.

Jas - Reply

This screw was missing from my phone. Could this be what is causing the bluetooth/GPS/wifi issues?

Kyle Sullivan - Reply

I was working on a cell reception issue and notice that this screw is missing as well. I had the screen previously repaired by a third party and am not sure if they did a poor job and lost parts, or if it was legit missing in the first place based on Kyle’s comment above.

ttilberg - Reply

The Screw and Step´s 34 “antenna interconnect cable” are missing in my phone. Could this be what is causing the bluetooth/GPS/wifi issues?

Renan Sesti - Reply

Use the point of a spudger to fold the antenna interconnect cable up out of the way of the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to fold the antenna interconnect cable up out of the way of the logic board.
  • Use the point of a spudger to fold the antenna interconnect cable up out of the way of the logic board.

Argh — easy to forget on the reassemble and even easier to break! A “do the reverse” of these instructions really isn’t sufficient.

Iain York - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the camera cable connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure to only pry on the connector not the socket itself or you can cause permanent damage to the logic board. Fold the camera cable up out of the way of the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the camera cable connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to only pry on the connector not the socket itself or you can cause permanent damage to the logic board.

  • Fold the camera cable up out of the way of the logic board.

Add Comment

  • Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear case:

    • Two 1.9 mm Phillips screws

    • One 2.3 mm standoff screw

  • Standoff screws are best removed with a standoff screwdriver or standoff driver bit. A small flathead screwdriver can also do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

The standoff screw was difficult to remove because a normal phillips head screwdriver is the wrong shape. I had to use a small flat head screwdriver carefully to get it off.

Matthew Williams - Reply

I absolutely can not get this standoff screw off. Searching the web now for "iphone standoff screw" I see that there are specialized screwdrivers for getting this screw off. I wish I had one right at this moment! Anyway, an improvement to these instructions would be to mention this standoff screw upfront, so that one can be prepared with the right screwdriver before starting this job. I'm stuck at this step right now. A small flathead screwdriver just isn't cutting it.

paulflicker - Reply

Hello. I used a 1.5 mm flat screwdriver from iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit. It worked easily for me.

Angelo Mastrella -

Yes, I too faced issue and the guide should indicate we need a 1.5mm flat head screw driver. Without that, you end up in half disassembled phone with no way to fix further.

IFIXIT, please adjust the instructions and better yet add a small 1.5mm flat head tip to use in the kit.

Anand Parthasarathy - Reply

Well it does say to use a flathead in the instructions, and it's also in the tools list at the top of the guide. Although if you really want to make it easy, you can use a standoff driver (or just the standoff bit if you already have the driver handle).

Jeff Suovanen -

Jeff, you are right, it mentions in the list. I stand corrected. But when ordering the repair kit with the part for antenna cable replacement, it is not clear we will need this as well. You would assume you have all you need from the kit and that is something I feel either IFIX include the flat head or add a note to require that when ordering.

Anand Parthasarathy -

@gadgetag That's a fair point! I've passed your comments along to our tool development team, and they're already working on an update for the fix kit. Hope the lack of a flathead didn't trip you up too much. Thanks for your feedback!

Jeff Suovanen -

My device didn’t have the standoff screw.

Dan Thorson - Reply

Mine didn´t either

Renan Sesti -

Never use the pointy end of the spuger to put back the standoff screw in place. It can break off some plastic in the hole since it’s threaded inside and you will have major problem to remove it. If the standoff scew isn’t tight enough when you put it back on, it’s not a big deal since you will put another screw in its center at the end of the rebuild and you will be able to tighten both screws at that point. Just don’t use the spudger to put it back on. That standoff screw is a poor concept.

Mathieu Paquette - Reply

Just a side note; I understand the list of tools required for this job includes a “Flathead 3/32” or 2.5 mm Screwdriver,” but wanted to mention that a Wera 2.5 mm diver is too thick (0.4 mm) to do a good job of removing the standoff. With a fair amount of pressure I was able to make it work, but as others have pointed out, I would expect a 1.5 mm flathead driver to have a thinner head (0.23 mm from Wera) and be more suited to the task, barring having an actual standoff driver.

Kees Vermeulen - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector end of the logic board up slightly, just enough to grab with your fingers. Insert the spudger near the metal shields below the SIM card tray to avoid damaging any chips or sockets.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector end of the logic board up slightly, just enough to grab with your fingers.

    • Insert the spudger near the metal shields below the SIM card tray to avoid damaging any chips or sockets.

Where is a safe place to put the logic board one removed?

Carter Christie - Reply

Where can i buy a motherboard for my iphone 6

Jeffrey Dennis - Reply

Lift the battery connector end of the logic board and pull it up and out of the rear case. Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables. Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.
  • Lift the battery connector end of the logic board and pull it up and out of the rear case.

    • Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.

I've been told that the problem with my phone is the logic board. Can any standard logic board be swapped in for a defective one, or are there any additional steps needed to get the phone operational?

Dennis Gagomiros - Reply

If you are following these instructions for the purpose of replacing the commonly failing wifi antenna cable, you will find it on the back of the logic board when you lift it out. You will need to fiddle around a bit to find the right position for the 4 connectors - they are microscopic - and you will hear tiny little clicks when they go in the right places. Check by looking at the board and antenna sideways, to see that they are all in place, before starting reassembly.

Lars Andersson - Reply

good tip, to look at it sideways to confirm seating of connectors.

Christa -

5-6 days from salt water damaged so this process will work so or not and this is my first time so i m afraid…i will go ahead or not?

swayanshu panda - Reply

When re-assembling make sure all the connectors remain above the logic board. Especially the power button and flash assembly connectors shown on Step 26.

MEHMET YILDIZ - Reply

When re-assembling make sure all the connectors remain above the logic board. Especially power button and flash connectors shown in Step 26 are tricky.

MEHMET YILDIZ - Reply

6 cables to keep above the board when re-inserting: two on top left, one top right, three at the bottom.

Christa - Reply

Flip the logic board over to expose the antenna on the back side. Disconnect the four coaxial connectors from the logic board and remove the antenna cable from the logic board.
  • Flip the logic board over to expose the antenna on the back side.

  • Disconnect the four coaxial connectors from the logic board and remove the antenna cable from the logic board.

  • Be careful not to touch any metal to metal contact points with your bare fingers—use tweezers or gloves. Finger oils may disrupt conductivity. If you do touch any of these components, clean them with a degreaser like windex or isopropyl alcohol before reassembly.

I broke one of the coax connectors connecting the antenna flex cable to the logicboard.

Any idea of the part number and where I can find it?

Remy - Reply

Exact same thing happened to me. The connector on the main board came right off when I tried to disconnect the F antenna. I don’t micro solder so I assume my phone is borked and un-repairable.

Brad Engleking - Reply

Crap, got to this step only to discover that one of the connectors on the existing cable was already broken.

barreg - Reply

I broke two of the connectors on the existing antenna cable, but the connectors on the board remained intact. The new cable attached with no problem for me.

dv30fps - Reply

same problem for me, i broke one of the coax connectors on the logicboard. What can i do about it anyone?

Levent Baysak - Reply

The connectors can be replaced pretty easily with the right equipment, but it’s not a DIY repair. You’ll want to find a repair shop that does board-level repairs (microsoldering).

Jeff Suovanen -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

207 other people completed this guide.

Sam Lionheart

Member since: 10/18/2012

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77 Comments

Great tutorial. Gps, bluetooth and wifi working again 100% for less than 2 quid. Thanks

Andres - Reply

Great Guide, GPS Antenna and WIFI antenna replaced!!! a little sweat... but i did it

Miguel Cartagenova - Reply

This part and replacement guide saved my iPhone. I thought the phone was just getting old and on its way out since the bluetooth and gps were incredibly awful. Bluetooth only worked within direct line of sight within one foot, and gps had stopped working almost completely. It took some time to perform this repair, but I following the guide carefully and patiently fixed the problem completely. This part and guide worked perfectly. Thank you very much ifixit!

Joseph Engbert - Reply

EXCELLENT Instructions! 1:15 first time. Worked great, saved me the cost of a new phone. The "genius bar" said it couldn't be fixed, talk about self serving "you will have to buy a new phone!"

KEY GUIDANCE

0) Be careful when taking the front off, I snapped off one of two pieces near the lightening connector!

1) Print out the instructions (yes its a lot of pages, but trust me)

2) As you take off screws and pieces tape them to the instructions where they go

3) YOU will thank me later.

If I had not done this I think it would have been twice as long, and likely made mistakes and perhaps damaged something with the wrong length screw. I kept like screws together under one piece of tape, next to each color indicator.

rtotah67 - Reply

Thank you man!

It was really the cleverest advise!

Kirill Kormiltsev -

Awesome instructions - especially the "the display data cable may pop off its connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on." part. The last time I had my phone apart I had that exact problem and it ended up costing me £50 to get it fixed along with what turned out to be a load of BS from the guy who fixed it. I had the same problem again this time but after reading that little gem I fixed it myself. The rest of the procedure was very well documented and simple (if fiddly) to follow. I drew some boxes on paper and lablelled them in relation to the sections, then put the screws in each section as I went.

Thank you for saving me a lot of money - 10/10

Mike Hughes - Reply

I had an issue with my iPhone with poor WiFi reception and most of the time couldn't connect to WiFi at all. If the WiFi signal from a router was strong, that was the only time I could connect. The Apple store ran their diagnostics and told me there was no fault detected and the option was to pay $429 AUD for a replacement phone so I did some fault finding myself. After reinstalling the firmware through a DFU restore and reinstalling the software to rule out both those contenders it was pretty certain it was a hardware issue.

I replaced the WiFi antenna and also the antenna flex cable while I was in there. The issue is resolved and phone is functioning perfectly. I cannot say which part solved the issue but figured it was worth changing both out at the same time. The repair guide was spot on and super easy to follow, parts supplied from iFIXIT were good quality and did the job. Overall coast was just over $50 AUD including tools and shipping. Thank you!

tooeasy - Reply

Thank you very much for this excellent guide. Worked a charm. Also, the tip to print out these instructions and tape the parts and screws to the steps is well worth doing. Thanks again.

Caroline McCarthy - Reply

This guide is amazing! Thought I was going to have to give in and buy a new phone, but found this thread and decided to give it a shot. I've never done anything like this before but was able to fix the problem (non-working/spotty GPS, wifi, and bluetooth) on my first try! I would definitely suggest creating a grid with each step on a piece of paper and putting/taping the screws and parts down to keep track of everything. The results were great! My GPS works again, the bluetooth signal reaches across the house, and my phone is picking up wifi networks again. Thanks for saving me a boatload of money - it feels wonderful to breath new life into my (only 2-year old) phone!!!

Kelsey Chesnut - Reply

A great guide! However did not fix my greyed put wifi problem. Any other suggestions? Factory reset?

Abbie - Reply

Abbie: If it's a greyed out wifi symbol issue, my understanding is that it's probably the wifi card / board itself, not the antenna cable.

Andy - Reply

Tolle Anleitung!

Hat alles super geklappt und wlan/bt/GPS funktionieren wieder einwandfrei!

Danke!!

MrDKing1994 - Reply

3 1/2 hours , left some connectors under the logic board and so had to disassemble again, nightmare with the flat head screw and managed to lose 2 screws! one from the cable bracket and one to secure the logic board. Amazed when it turned on and full wifi /gps again! Amazing instructions - thanks !!

Ryan Johnson - Reply

Thank you very much my GPS could no longer locate my position and when I got this done its working good as new. Knocked it out in 45 mins!

David Bernal - Reply

This fixed my problem with the GPS being completely useless and the 2,4GHz wifi being sketchy. Fantastic! The repair took me an hour - including loosing and relocating one of the very smallest 1.2mm screws on the floor. I taped the screws to a piece of paper and wrote the corresponding step number next to it, which made reassembly very easy.

nicholas_ransome - Reply

The first sign of trouble on my phone was gps not working , then I noticed poor WiFi and Bluetooth range. I followed the steps for this repair - I think two of the connectors on the antenna flex had just popped off, but I replaced it anyway as I had bought the part (under £2 from replacebase.co.uk). Now gps, WiFi and Bluetooth all looking good again. Great guide, thanks. Not too difficult, just need to be organised with the screws.

MartinW - Reply

Avevo problemi al Wifi e Bluetooth (segnale più debole del solito) e al GPS (inaccuratezza, a tal punto da non far funzionare nessuna app di navigazione). Ho cambiato il connettore e ora non ho più nessun problema, come nuovo. Il pezzo che ho sostituito ha una strana etichetta sopra che si è spostata e/o usurata, forse in seguito a un urto, ed è molto più schiacciata di quella del pezzo nuovo.

Fixed issues to Wifi, Bluetooth and GPS (weak signal and inaccuracy).

Thank you for the guide:

FIXED!

Francesco - Reply

Réussi à changer l’antenne wifi/gps/bluetooth et la nappe de connection en 1h15.

Juste en remettant la carte mère je n’ai pas fait attention au cable de l’antenne wifi qui avait glissé sous la carte mère .

Etape la plus difficile : 23 !!!

Mais j’ai récupéré un GPS fonctionnel pour environ 10 € !

Jérôme Briens - Reply

Instructions were bang on! Take your time and as others suggested, print out the instructions (in colour) and tape each screw and component to its corresponding page. I also used a large magnifying glass with built in lighting on a floor stand to assist in making sure I was snapping each connector back correctly and securely. This fix fully restored my WiFi connection on the 2.4 Ghz. band. Thank you !

Max Turavani - Reply

Excellent guide. GPS wasn’t working well at all on iPhone 6, and now it’s much better!

Alexander N - Reply

THANK YOU - I had the same problem as above (awful GPS, BT and WiFi).

Apple shop tried to tell me it was a fault with my battery (which they would happily replace for me if I gave them 90GBP), which fully knew was just a lie. I love Apple products, but in the last 10 years the customer service/repair options have just gone down hill.

Took my time and stuck each component onto the paper next to each step as I went along and removed them. When I got to replacing the part, it was clear there was damage - one of the little connectors on the component was half hanging off and when I removed it, this part pinged across the room.

New part installed and its like having a new phone again.

Tips - go slow and gentle. Read the additional posted comments before you do anything. Have a good light source, a cup of coffee and don't rush. I bought the whole fix kit (inc tools) and had it shipped to UK - think it cost be 20GBP with postage! I am one happy man.

Joseph Williams - Reply

I too had a phone with poor wifi and bluetooth reception. The GPS location was so poor that all navigation apps were unusable for directions. It took me about 2 hours to install the new F-cable and after the install my phone works good as new. the instructions on the ifixit website were amazing. They practically hold your hand step by step through the entire process. I printed out the instructions on computer paper and taped every screw I removed onto the page for that step. This made the reassebly process so much easier. If you take your time and follow the instructions its actually a simple fix.

jason hudkins - Reply

Good guide, listen to the people who say to print out the directions and tape the parts to the corresponding steps on the paper.

This improved the wifi but unfortunately didn’t do anything to improve GPS. Oh well

jj442434 - Reply

First time I ever did a replacement and worked very well. great tutorial! thank you very much, my bluetooth and gps works great again and didnt work at all before!

Alex - Reply

sorted my phone in 40 mins, thanks. i do however seem to have a small black plastic piece left over??? had a slot in it and a hole for a screw going through at 90 degrees. i cant for the life of me figure out where its come from!!

scott wright - Reply

Seems like angled logic board bracket. See steps 31-32.

Kirill Kormiltsev -

Thanks for excellent explanation

I have done . Wifi now working perfectly but battery drain very fast ?!

Is it due to replacement of flex cable or faulty steps

Or battery life suddenly getting over!?

mtumapathy - Reply

I replaced the WiFi cable and battery at the same time, phone now works perfect. Thank you for the well detailed right up. My only issue came when trying to pick up one of the screws with the tweezers and it shot out across the room. I suppose i was squeezing too hard but I found it and all is great!

Albert Campion - Reply

Great !!!!! I changed the “Antenna Flex Cable” and “Wi-Fi Antenna” at the same time, they weren’t so expensive (less than 5 € both), and finally my WiFi, GPS signal and Bluetooth worked again. ouf !!! it takes me a while thinking to fix it myself, BUT fortunately I came here to ifixit.com and everything goes fine.

Thanks ifixit.com :)

Ali Mizda - Reply

Done! Thanx so much!!!!

Gianluca Andreoli - Reply

My daughters 6 was awful at wifi and BT. Went to a replab and the phone was away for two weeks with nothing done. They mentioned something about micro solving…. Bought parts for 3 $ and changed the antenna and wifi module. Perfect. Thanks to I fixit.com I managed to do it self. Some challenge to connect the small antenna connectors, but now it WORKS AGAIN!! Thanks.

Sven Erik Moen - Reply

Great guide! Per numerous other comments, please indicate at the START of the guide that a small flathead screw driver (not included in the repair kit) is needed for the standoff screw in step 36.

Perrin Haley - Reply

I changed this flex and the antenna but did not improve wifi signal and dropouts. What else could be?

Filipe Silva - Reply

I have replaced this antena flex cable and now my GPS signal is back along with the strong WiFi signal!

Thank you for this instruction!

Tip: it’s easy to replace battery while perorming this disassembling. I thought of it when had reached the last steps and it was too late, so now need to repeat half of these steps again to replace the battery…

Kirill Kormiltsev - Reply

This fixed my problem. My wifi was extremely weak and my GPS would not triangulate. Same exact problem as others here described. I ordered the new antenna cable and followed these steps, and now phone signal is like new again I wouldn’t go through the trouble of writing this if I was BS anyone

Thanks for the detailed steps on how to complete this !

Steven Jacobs - Reply

Great guide, took me a couple hours. Wasted a bit of time on step 31 the horizontal screw. The iFixit kit screwdriver was too bulky and digging into the battery. Headed to the shop and found myself a slimmer screwdriver and the rest went pretty painless. Thanks.

robertlennes - Reply

Performed…. it WORKED!!!!

Now GPS, Wi-Fi, BT and NFC work!!!! yeah!!!

Cristian Palincas - Reply

My iPhone 6 is three years old. GPS became unreliable a few months ago. I decided to buy an iPhone 8 Plus and replace the antenna cable and battery at the same time. The procedure took about 3 hours while I watched football. The hardest part was getting the existing battery out because the tape broke when I pulled it. A heat gun helped to get the adhesive pliable. Now my daughter has a “new” phone. Thanks for this guide!

dv30fps - Reply

Problem Solved! Awesome guide! My wifi and bluetooth has been extremely weak and my gps useless. Waze wouldn’t work anymore and gave me an error that there was no GPS. Google and Apple maps were also essentially useless, often showing me driving through the woods 30 miles from where I was. I ordered a replacement flex cable and decided I had nothing to lose.

I printed this out and had the guide also up on my laptop. For each step that required removing a screw , bracket, etc, I would carefully place the screw(s) (or other bracket) and use a small piece of clear tape to stick it to the appropriate step on the printed out page. When multiple size screws for a step, I made sure to tape each different size screw to the right “sub-step.” At the end, I had a stack of pages and then could just work backwards to reassemble. Took me about an hour total with about 15 minutes of that time for reassembly.

After power up, all worked and all is fixed. My GPS now shows me within a few feet and all is well!

Bill - Reply

My Sim Slot dosen‘t Work anymore but otherwise it’s a great Guide, Wifi, BT and GPS are working way better Now.

BmwM3Eco Melvin - Reply

Are you sure it's your some slot? I thought the same but eventually it was the antenna flex cable (the left connector if you are looking at it)

Eric -

I lost my 3/4G network and could not connect to to my phone network. Wifi and Bluetooth were good, after dismantling with this guide I found one of the flex cables connectors was broken. Replaced and al is good now.

Eric - Reply

same here, mine was the GPS connector.

Poom Poom -

One of the connectors of my flex cable had become damaged somehow, it was scratched on the square metal side and broke off and stayed on the motherboard when removing the flex cable.

After replacing the flex Cable, Phone is like new!

The iPhone 6 with this fix and a new battery, which was almost as easy to replace as any phone just with with a few special tools, is ending up being the phone I had hoped, the first one to really not need an immediate upgrade for maybe 3-4 years. I was HATING it for the last year since the battery, which ended up at 74% of original capacity, stopped it from working properly, no thanks for your added “help” apple, how about some truth. It had been essentially useless, but now its everything I need and will hold me over till some other hopefully 3-4 year phone has my name on it. I think next generation will be more ideal.

WARNING: Reattaching the antenna cable was the most difficult part for me, it took about 5 minutes of trying to get it to pop back on, everything else was easy.

Poom Poom - Reply

Thank you for the guide.

Replacing Antenna cable fixed all of my bluetooth, wifi anf gps issues.

Mert Kantarciogu - Reply

I’m writing this in December 2017 and I just successfully used this guide to replace the wifi antenna in my 3 year old iPhone 6. I was having wifi and GPS problems and both seem fixed. The antenna cost $7 on Amazon

This guide is excellent. However be aware that the procedure is very involved and intricate. You really need all the tools listed. It’s worth buying a phone repair kit on Amazon that has the screw drivers, suction cup, various spudgers, tweezers, etc. It took me 3 hours and most of the time is spent on reassembly since it’s very difficult to place the tiny screws back in the holes.

I highly highly highly recommend, as someone else suggested, printing out the instructions, one step per page, and then taping each screw to the picture on each page at the exact highlighted screw locations. This ensures you can’t get confused.

Overall this is a difficult and high risk procedure. But if you go slow and are patient and diligent you can do it. I’m very glad I did it.

Good luck

iPhoneSurgeon - Reply

Goog guide, issue fixed!!

Matteo Ragoni - Reply

Thanks for the guide! Replacing the antenna cable solved my GPS problems and improved WiFi and Bluetooth stability.

Michael Jaser - Reply

It helped me too, followed the above steps(took me 2 hours) and got back my wifi and gps, thanks for this guide, i saved around $275 …

Shivnesh - Reply

Awesome guide - thanks! Learnt something new, saved money and have working GPS again. It was very fiddly for somebody with not the best eyesight. I was a bit worried about the screen digitizer as I found reconnecting it very difficult and sure I had messed it up\bent it. But all seems good. Thanks again and good luck to everybody else.

Julian - Reply

Great guide, very informative! I also had GPS issues; the Genius Bar ran diagnostic tests and told me that there was nothing wrong with my phone, and that I should try a factory reset. I did all that, to no avail. Finally decided to try this repair, and it worked great! My two tips: (1) I taped the screws on a piece of paper that I sectioned off by the relevant step number and color of the screw-as depicted in the guide, and followed along on my laptop; and (2) I also used disposable latex gloves which helped me reattach the antenna. I reassembled, and took the phone for a test drive an hour later. GPS is working again!

rabidavid77 - Reply

Another satisfied customer. My issues were poor BT and GPS. Now both working perfectly.

I found that having a magnetic screw mat and a nice toolkit helped. I bought both mine on ifixit. I like to support this site if possible, since the writeups and forums are so helpful.

jcmuniz - Reply

Woohoo! So pleased to have successfully done this and find it has fixed my problem. Got quite far through reassembly when I realised I had lost some of the cables under the logic board when I put it back in so had to repeat a bunch of steps *face palm*.

Tessa Baker - Reply

The red screw on step 27 wont come out! Please help! Any suggestions?

Jeff Smith - Reply

Unfortunately i broke one of coax connector from logicboard. What can i do about it?

Levent Baysak - Reply

Dude!!! You are awesome. Follow the steps, print it out, label and tape each screw to the step, and take your time. Worked for me. 2.5 hours but well worth the time.

Rafayel Ambartsumyan - Reply

Brilliant. Did my battery and antenna cable at the same time (GPS was dead too). Super smooth and easy to follow.

Tip: Get a stack of those small mouthwash cups for keeping the screws. I printed the instructions and numbered the screws in sequence and wrote these numbers on both the printed pages and the cups so I’d never put the wrong one in when reassembling.

Twindaddy - Reply

This absolutely fixed my wifi problem and the GPS triangulation problem. Phone working as good as new. Excellent instructions and thanks !

Steven Jacobs - Reply

*** 6 month update — buy from ifixit.com NOT Amazon! ***

I had weak wifi signal strength and the GPS was not accurate (blue dot on Google maps was always wrong or would not track my location). So I bought the antenna flex cable from Amazon (brand is called MMOBIEL WIFI sold by Menko Teleco). I followed this repair guide but found no improvement to wifi/gps.

After 6 months it became unbearable so I bought another cable, this time from ifixit.com, and did the repair again. Now everything works flawlessly.

This time I noticed that the cable from Amazon was missing the blue sticker shown in the picture. The ifixit cable had it. So maybe it’s important.

Anyways, I can confirm this repair works, but make sure to buy the cable from ifixit.com

Q Q - Reply

My iPhone 6 GPS stopped working around November 2017. WiFi and Bluetooth worked normally. Bought the replacement flex cable and install kit in March 2018. PROBLEM SOLVED!! Great instructions and easy to follow. Probably took about an hour. Make sure to keep track of the screws so you know which one goes where during reinstallstion. I’m very happy with ifixit for helping me to get this solved without spending a lot of money.

Russ Snyder - Reply

Was your phone still under warranty when you did this repair? I’m in the same situation as you. My phone has been dropped or anything so I’m wondering would could have gone wrong. Bluetooth and wifi work just fine. GPS is just shot…

jeff -

I have an iPhone 6 which was bent. I think that everything works except the antenna. Is the antena for wifi different than the antena for LTE/phone? I can connect to Wi-fi, but when I put a sim, the signal icon says ‘SEARCHING’ and doesn’t move anywhere. Is this fixable?

Roberto Zozaya - Reply

Perfect! Wifi, Bluetooth and GPS Working again! When I took out the old Antenna one of the four connectors broke very easily. that colud be the problem.

Fixed in 45 minutes!

Thanks iFixit team and good job!

Ferran Contreras - Reply

I got my iphone 6s plus in Decemeber through warranty and my phone is still under warranty. I’ve tried everything but replacing this part. If I attempt to do this repair, it will void my warranty. What do some of you recommend?

jeff - Reply

Sam’s right, and at the same time, if your phone is still under warranty, and as you say it hasn’t been dropped or anything, then theoretically Apple should cover it and you don’t have to stress about figuring out how to repair it. That’s the benefit of having a warranty.

Jeff Suovanen -

Very Good tutorial ! I was afraid of breaking smt but because it was very clear i didnt

IF Informusic - Reply

This worked great! Wifi and bluetooth came back immediately after replacing flex antenna. I did however have an issue with volume buttons and power/flash button not working. I took the cover off again, disconnected the battery, and secured those connections. As good as new! Thanks!

Jason Dytche - Reply

Fixed my gps no signal problem

Chun Yu Chen - Reply

Wow. What a difference. I actually have wifi now instead of almost no signal or no signal at all when I should have it. Do yourself a favor and get a bunch of Dixie cups and some sheets of paper to place them on. Number what step you are on on the paper. If there are multiple screws, arrange the cups in the positions of the screws so there will be no mixing them up. Also, take your time.

By the way, I can see why I didn’t have wifi before. One of the four connectors on the antenna was disconnected from the main part. When I removed the old antennae, the metal connector stayed on the phone.

Matt G - Reply

Did this repair yesterday, took us about 2hrs. Hardest part was to keep track and storage of the tiny little screws. We followed every step to the letter, fired up the phone after reassembly and had horrible patterns on the screen and an unresponsible display. Following the comments we found out that the digitizer cable must be the problem. Opened it up again and cleaned the socket and the plug of the digitizer connector with a brush. ALL the other connectors connected with a little click when seated. That one was the only one that made problems. Had to REALLY make sure it is in the perfect spot before pressing down. After mastering that one all was good. When we pried the 4 connections off the logic board, 3 came off perfect, but with the 4th one a tiny part of the connector stayed on the logic board. It seemed to have been corroded off the cable itself and that we think was the problem. Now all is good again, good WIFI reception BT works again and GPS which was down as well is working well again.

Heinz Wulff - Reply

It’s a great tutorial, very precise, very clear, didn’t have any major problem: just lost the WiFi connector foam & didn’t have the right tool for the strut screw (it’s not included in the iFixit default package).

After 1h30 of stress and sweating, my Bluetooth & GPS are working well again : precise GPS localization again (it was very inaccurate most of the time, up to a bunch of kilometers, and moving alone), fluent Bluetooth (all my audio system had a hard time to connect, and the audio streaming was very unstable) !

Note : I had to plug my iPhone to power outlet to make it boot again. Using the standard power button wasn’t working to bring it back to life. I guess it’s… normal.

Thanks to Annika Faelker for the French translation, it’s perfect.

Julien-Pierre - Reply

Despite the two hours of work, the repair was not succeed.

May be one of procedure was wrong or has problem. Right now I have no idea for another trying.

Any advice to my problem or anybody has similar experience?

Kim Namil - Reply

Before this fix, my bluetoothrange was about 1,5 m before experiensing short drop outs, now it’s 8m+ with walls in between without dropping out.

My GPS accuracy was at best 165m before, now it’s <10m.

It work’s! Just keep in mind this repair is not easy, and it’s easy to break one of the cables.

Patrik Kron - Reply

Just replace WiFi antenna and now my Touch ID is unable to activate can you help ?

Gary Brinkworth - Reply

Thank you so much!! Your guide help me fix the screw problem. I messed up the screws and half of the screen can’t work! But now it is fixed!

silviashen95 - Reply

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU. Followed these instructions step by step - and it’s all worked - take your time and follow advice in commnets. PRINT OUT THE INSTURCTIONS AND STICKY TAPE THE SCREWS TO THE CORRECT PAGE - can’t remember who gave this advice in the comments but its a must do (and thank you) makes it so much easier to do. Took me about an hour and im not all that tecnical. Use the smaller screen shots to help see how cables etc come apart and ensure that seat back into thier positions afterwards - can be a bit fiddle but be patient!! - thank you again.

Inluding the parts and correct (screwdriver) kit managed the fix for about a tenner!

Nigel White - Reply

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