Fix Your Stuff

Right to Repair

Parts & Tools

iPhone 5c Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement

Written By: Andrew Optimus Goldheart (and 11 other contributors)
  • Comments: 116
  • Favorites: 84
  • Completions: 138

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

37

Time Required

45 minutes - 2 hours

Sections

3

Flags

0

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the Lightning connector and audio port cable in your iPhone 5c.

You can also use this guide for reference when replacing the microphone gasket.

Video Overview

  1. If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

    Edit

  2. Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.8 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on either side of the Lightning connector.

    Edit

  3. The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5c that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair on an iPhone 5, 5s, or 5c. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to Step 5. Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws. Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.
    Tool used on this step:
    iSclack
    $19.99

    • The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5c that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair on an iPhone 5, 5s, or 5c. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to Step 5.

    • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

    • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

    • The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

    • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

    Edit

  4. Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case. The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any cables.

    • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

    • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any cables.

    • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

    • Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 8.

    Edit

  5. Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

    • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

    Edit

  6. Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly. While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly.

    • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

    • With a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

    • There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

    Edit

  7. Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

    • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

    • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

    Edit

  8. Lift the home button end of the front panel up to gain access to the connectors near the top of the phone. Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Lift the home button end of the front panel up to gain access to the connectors near the top of the phone.

    • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    Edit

  9. Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.

    • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.

    Edit

  10. Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

    • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

    Edit

  11. Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket or the board itself, you may destroy the socket or damage nearby components on the board.

    Edit

  12. Remove the following Phillips #000 screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Remove the following Phillips #000 screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    • One 3.25 mm screw

    • It is especially important to keep track of your screws in this step for reassembly. Accidentally using the 3.25 mm screw or the 1.7 mm screw in the bottom right hole will result in significant damage to the logic board causing the phone to no longer boot properly.

    • Be careful not to over-tighten the screws. If they don't fit easily when you are securing them, they may be the wrong size—don't force them.

    Edit

  13. Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

    • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

    Edit

  14. Nintendo Switch Kits

    A quick fix to get back in the game

    Shop Switch Kits

    Nintendo Switch Kits

    A quick fix to get back in the game

    Shop Switch Kits

  15. Use a plastic opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector. Be sure to only pry up on the connector, and not on the socket on the logic board.

    • Use a plastic opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

    • Be sure to only pry up on the connector, and not on the socket on the logic board.

    Edit

  16. Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step. Use a plastic opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the LCD cable connector. The LCD and Digitizer connectors are on the same cable assembly, so prying the LCD connector up should disconnect both connectors. Double check that the two cables are fully disconnected before removing the display.

    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use a plastic opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the LCD cable connector.

    • The LCD and Digitizer connectors are on the same cable assembly, so prying the LCD connector up should disconnect both connectors. Double check that the two cables are fully disconnected before removing the display.

    • When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off its connector. A blank screen, or white lines on the display could be caused by a loose connection. Should this happen, reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

    Edit

  17. Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    Edit

  18. Run the tip of a spudger between the battery and the headphone jack to unfold the battery adhesive tab. Run the tip of a spudger between the battery and the headphone jack to unfold the battery adhesive tab. Run the tip of a spudger between the battery and the headphone jack to unfold the battery adhesive tab.

    • Run the tip of a spudger between the battery and the headphone jack to unfold the battery adhesive tab.

    Edit

  19. Pull the battery adhesive tab away from the phone.

    • Pull the battery adhesive tab away from the phone.

    Edit

  20. Cut the black battery adhesive tab between the two white adhesive strips, separating them. Cut the black battery adhesive tab between the two white adhesive strips, separating them.

    • Cut the black battery adhesive tab between the two white adhesive strips, separating them.

    Edit

  21. Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly. Slowly pull one of the battery adhesive strips away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

    • Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

    • Slowly pull one of the battery adhesive strips away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

    • Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip as it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.

    • Guide the strip carefully around the corner and up the side of the battery. Be careful not to snag it on any of the other internal iPhone components.

    • The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling, re-grabbing the strip near the battery if necessary, until the entire strip comes free.

    Edit

  22. Repeat to remove the second strip. Repeat to remove the second strip.

    • Repeat to remove the second strip.

    Edit

  23. Remove the battery from your iPhone.

    • Remove the battery from your iPhone.

    • If one, or both, of the adhesive strips tears, and you are unable to retrieve it with a set of tweezers, do not pry the battery out of the phone. Continue on to the next steps to safely remove your battery.

    Edit

  24. Follow our iOpener heating instructions or use a hair dryer to heat the adhesive securing your battery to the rear case.

    • Follow our iOpener heating instructions or use a hair dryer to heat the adhesive securing your battery to the rear case.

    • Lay the iOpener flat on the backside of the iPhone to the right of the camera. Smooth it out so that there is good contact between the back of the iPhone and the iOpener.

    • Let the bag sit on the iPhone for approximately 90 seconds before attempting to remove the battery.

    • If using a hair dryer or heat gun, heat the back of the iPhone until it's slightly too hot to touch.

    • Do not apply heat directly to the battery.

    Edit

  25. Carefully wedge a plastic card under the battery on the side nearest the logic board. Do not pry against the logic board or you may damage the phone.

    • Carefully wedge a plastic card under the battery on the side nearest the logic board.

    • Do not pry against the logic board or you may damage the phone.

    • Avoid prying near the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the upper component ribbon cable.

    • Slide the card from the top of the battery to the bottom, pushing toward the edge of the case.

    • If you still trouble, apply some isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) under the battery and let it flow around the adhesive to help weaken it. High concentration isopropyl alcohol acts as a solvent and dries without leaving any residue, so it will not hurt your iPhone.

    • If necessary, repeat the same procedure with the case side of the battery.

    Edit

  26. Lift and remove the battery from the iPhone.

    • Lift and remove the battery from the iPhone.

    • There should be no resistance. If the battery remains stuck, reheat the iOpener and pry again.

    • If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove it before installation by pulling it away from the the ribbon cable.

    • If your new battery doesn’t have adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide to replace the adhesive strips.

    • Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

    Edit

  27. Use a plastic opening tool to peel the home button spring contact cable up from the speaker enclosure. Use a plastic opening tool to peel the home button spring contact cable up from the speaker enclosure.

    • Use a plastic opening tool to peel the home button spring contact cable up from the speaker enclosure.

    Edit

  28. Remove the following screws securing the speaker enclosure to the rear case:

    • Remove the following screws securing the speaker enclosure to the rear case:

    • Two 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screws

    • One 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

    Edit

  29. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the speaker enclosure up from the rear case. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the speaker enclosure up from the rear case.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the speaker enclosure up from the rear case.

    Edit

  30. Remove the speaker enclosure. Be careful not to snag it on the antenna cable. Remove the speaker enclosure. Be careful not to snag it on the antenna cable.

    • Remove the speaker enclosure. Be careful not to snag it on the antenna cable.

    Edit

  31. The far right screw hole on the speaker has a contact bracket wrapped around it. This small part may fall off unexpectedly, so it's best to remove it and note the orientation for reassembly. The flat portion of the contact clip should rest against the speaker, as shown.

    • The far right screw hole on the speaker has a contact bracket wrapped around it. This small part may fall off unexpectedly, so it's best to remove it and note the orientation for reassembly.

    • The flat portion of the contact clip should rest against the speaker, as shown.

    • The alignment bracket on the far end of the speaker assembly is adhered, but may fall off if handled aggressively.

    • The angled end should face up and line up with the outside edge of the speaker.

    Edit

  32. Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the Lightning connector ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.

    • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the Lightning connector ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.

    Edit

  33. The Lightning connector cable is lightly adhered to a shield on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently peel the cable up. The Lightning connector cable is lightly adhered to a shield on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently peel the cable up.

    • The Lightning connector cable is lightly adhered to a shield on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently peel the cable up.

    Edit

  34. Disconnect the cellular antenna connector from the base of the logic board.

    • Disconnect the cellular antenna connector from the base of the logic board.

    Edit

  35. Remove the following screws securing the Lightning connector to the rear case:

    • Remove the following screws securing the Lightning connector to the rear case:

    • Two 3.4 mm Phillips #000 screws

    • One 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

    Edit

  36. Gently peel the Lightning connector assembly up from the rear case. Gently peel the Lightning connector assembly up from the rear case.

    • Gently peel the Lightning connector assembly up from the rear case.

    Edit

  37. You may need to use the flat end of a spudger to completely free the assembly. You may need to use the flat end of a spudger to completely free the assembly.

    • You may need to use the flat end of a spudger to completely free the assembly.

    Edit

  38. Remove the Lightning connector assembly. There is a small rubber gasket attached to the microphone. Be sure to transfer it to the new assembly.

    • Remove the Lightning connector assembly.

    • There is a small rubber gasket attached to the microphone. Be sure to transfer it to the new assembly.

    Edit
Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

138 other people completed this guide.

Author

with 11 other contributors

Andrew Optimus Goldheart

Member since: 10/17/2009

448,953 Reputation

411 Guides authored

Badges: 43

+40 more badges

Team

iFixit Member of iFixit

Community

124 Members

11,605 Guides authored

20 Comments

Add a comment

I fix it. Tomorrow I was got my packet from ifixit.com with lightning assembly and today my iPhone 5c can charge again.

And I would like to tell you several words about a process:

1. Thanks Ifixit for the tools - pentalope screwdriver and a magnet mat - it was great

2. All was simple with a step by step instructions on site.

3. IMPORTANT!!!! Unnecessary to remove a battery before the Lightning assembly replace - replacement possible without it)))

4. Don't forget to remove a rubber head from an old microphone - new hasn't such part.

5. Don't forget to lay an antenna cable properly when install a speaker back.

6. All the parts are very small - a magnifying glass required)))

7. I was made it for 1 hour )))

Yan - Reply

Tried to fix a faulty headphone jack now with the new part, headphones arent recognised at all...

Thanks for any advice

Joshua - Reply

THOSE CHANGING JUST THE DOCK CONNECTOR!

Important! Steps 14, 15, and 19 through 28 are totally unnecessary. The SIM card is fine where it is, and the battery does not need to be removed to access everything. I would recommend disconnecting the battery connector while working, however.

Also, be careful with the little antenna where it connects to the dock connector flex. Mine broke off and had to be resoldered, but I bought the part on eBay.

Todd - Reply

Thanks for your feedback! We went ahead and removed the SIM card steps. It may be helpful to remove the battery in order to get enough clearance to separate the Lightning cable assembly from the rear case, but folks are certainly welcome to skip those steps if they are comfortable doing so. :)

Jeff Suovanen -

It is certainly not necessary to remove the battery in order to do this repair. I do not recommend following those steps.

kaniggit49 - Reply

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 11

Past 7 Days: 56

Past 30 Days: 239

All Time: 77,340