Introduction
Follow this guide to replace the front camera assembly, including the infrared dot projector and Face ID camera, in your iPad Pro 12.9" 4th generation.
Note that the Face ID camera is paired with the logic board. You will lose Face ID functionality if you replace your Face ID camera without also installing an accompanying logic board.
This guide is written with an A2229 (Wi-Fi only) model iPad Pro. If you have the cellular model, use this guide as a general reference, but you may need to perform extra disassembly not covered in this guide.
Some photos show the battery connector blocked with two card strips. While this is an optional method, it's more reliable to fully discharge the battery. Ignore this visual discrepancy as you work through the guide.
If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
What you need
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Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
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Position the suction cups near the middle of the right edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
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Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the right edge of the iPad.
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Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next step.
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Apply a suction handle to the screen as close to the center of the right edge as possible.
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Pull up on the suction handle with a strong, steady force to create a small gap between the frame and screen.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap.
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One magnet begins 2 cm from the top edge and is 2.5 cm long.
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The second magnet begins 3 cm from the bottom edge and is 2.5 cm long.
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Slide your opening pick back and forth along the right edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.
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Rotate your opening pick around the bottom right corner of the screen.
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Leave your pick in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.
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Insert a second opening pick in the bottom right corner of the screen.
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Slide your pick to the bottom left corner to slice the bottom edge adhesive.
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Rotate your opening pick around the bottom left corner of the screen.
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Leave your pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.
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The upper cutout begins 4 cm from the top edge and is 2.5 cm long.
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The middle cutout is exactly in the middle of the frame and is 2.5 cm long.
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The lower cutout begins 4 cm from the bottom edge and is 2.5 cm long.
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Insert a third opening pick in the bottom left corner of the screen.
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Slide your pick to the top left corner to slice the left edge adhesive.
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Rotate your opening pick around the top left corner of the screen.
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Leave your pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.
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While the top edge adhesive softens, note the following:
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There are two ambient light sensors near the corners. Only insert the very tip of your pick here to avoid damaging them.
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There are three strips of heat dispersion tape. Angle your pick upward as you slice here.
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The front-facing camera assembly is in the center of the top edge. Don't insert your pick here to avoid damaging them.
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Slide your opening pick 9 cm toward the center of the top edge to slice the adhesive, paying attention to the spots mentioned in the previous step.
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Grab two opposing corners of the screen and gently shift it around to separate it from the frame.
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Shift the screen towards the bottom right corner of the frame until the ribbon cable near the top edge is uncovered.
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Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the upper cable shield:
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One 1.8 mm-long screw
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One 2.0 mm-long screw
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Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the upper cable shield.
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Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the upper sensors press connector.
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Grip the right edge of the screen and fold it open like a book.
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Lay the screen down over the left edge of the iPad.
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Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the five screws securing the lower cable shield:
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Four 1.1 mm screws
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One 2.0 mm screw
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Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the lower cable shield.
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Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the upper cable shield:
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Three 1.1 mm screws
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One 2.0 mm screw
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Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the upper cable shield.
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Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the three press connectors for the IR dot-projector, front camera, and Face ID camera.
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Use blunt nose tweezers to grab and peel the left and middle front camera assembly cables from the logic board.
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Use your T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 2.2 mm screws securing the front camera assembly bracket.
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Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and remove the front camera assembly bracket from its recess.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Pro 12.9" 4th Gen Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad Pro 12.9" 4th Gen Answers community for help.
