Introduction
Does your battery no longer hold a charge? Follow the steps in this guide to replace a faulty or aging battery in an iPad Air 2 Wi-Fi.
If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
Be very careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily damaged, resulting in irreversible damage. If you choose to complete the guide without isolating the battery, avoid using metal tools except when completely necessary (like when removing screws) to prevent shorting the battery and damaging sensitive circuit components.
What you need
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Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
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Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
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Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
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Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
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Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
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Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
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Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
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Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
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Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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Handling it by the tabs on either end, place a heated iOpener over the top edge of the iPad.
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Let the iOpener sit on the iPad for two minutes to soften the adhesive securing the front panel to the rest of the iPad.
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As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas:
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Home Button
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Front Facing Camera
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Main Camera
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Tool used on this step:Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Elevate the iPad enough for the Anti-Clamp's arms to rest above and below the screen.
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Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
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Position the suction cups near the top edge of the iPad—one on the front, and one on the back.
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Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
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Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
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Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next two steps.
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Firmly pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the front panel and the rear case.
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Once you've opened a sufficient gap, insert an opening pick into the gap to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Slide the pick along the edge of the display, towards the headphone jack.
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If there is still a considerable amount of resistance when sliding the opening pick, repeat the iOpener heating procedure and apply additional heat.
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Reheat the iOpener and lay it over the right edge of the display to loosen the adhesive underneath.
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Slide the left-hand opening pick along the bottom edge of the display, then remove it from the bottom right corner of the iPad.
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Twist the remaining pick by the front-facing camera to separate the top edge of the display assembly from the rear case.
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Continue lifting the display assembly from the front-facing camera side.
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Pull the display slightly away from the bottom edge to completely separate it from the rear case.
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Keep lifting until the display assembly is roughly perpendicular to the body of the iPad.
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Remove the single 1.8 mm Phillips screw securing the battery terminals to their contacts on the logic board.
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Slide a battery isolation pick underneath the battery connector area of the logic board, and leave it in place while you work.
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Alternatively, make a battery blocker using a playing card and slide it underneath the logic board connector to disconnect the battery.
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Remove the following four Phillips screws securing the upper component cable bracket to the tablet.
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Two 1.6 mm
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Two 1.3 mm
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Slide the upper component cable bracket out from under the protective flaps and remove it from the iPad.
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Firmly grasp the antenna cable and peel up the grounding tape attaching it to the logic board.
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Remove the 1.2 mm Phillips screw securing the bracket covering the volume control cable connector.
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Remove the bracket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Facetime camera connector from its socket on the logic board.
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Pry up the adhesive attaching the Facetime camera cable to the audio jack cable underneath.
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Fold the Facetime camera cable up and out of the way.
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Disconnect the headphone jack cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
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Pry the cable up to free it from the adhesive securing it to the rear case.
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Pull the audio jack cable out of the way of the logic board below.
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Insert an opening pick underneath the Lightning cable where it meets the logic board.
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Slide the opening pick towards the bend in the cable.
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Prepare an iOpener following the steps in the iOpener Heating Guide.
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Place the iOpener along the top of the back of the iPad for 2-3 minutes to soften the adhesive holding the logic board in place.
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Insert an opening tool underneath the logic board below the FaceTime camera.
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Pry the left edge of the logic board up.
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Insert an opening pick underneath the portion of the logic board pried up in the previous step.
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Slide the opening pick towards the volume control buttons, and stop at the bend in the logic board.
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Insert a plastic opening tool underneath the logic board, inside the rectangular cut out, and gently pry the logic board up.
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Slide the opening tool down the length of the gap while continuing to pry the logic board up.
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Insert an opening tool underneath the logic board on the other side of the rectangular cut out and pry it up.
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Slide the opening tool down the length of the gap while continuing to pry the logic board up.
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Tool used on this step:Plastic Cards$2.99
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Insert a plastic card underneath the logic board.
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Slide the card down the length of the logic board to release the adhesive.
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Slide a plastic card underneath the center of the logic board, pushing it in as far as it will go.
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Slowly swing the left edge of the logic board up, while making sure it doesn't snag against any of the disconnected cables.
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Reheat the iOpener in the microwave for 30 seconds.
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Place the heated iOpener in the center of the back of the iPad. Keep it there for 90 seconds to soften the battery adhesive.
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Move the iOpener to the right (away from the rear-facing camera), and keep it there for another 90 seconds.
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Finally, place the iOpener near the right-hand edge of the iPad for 90 seconds.
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Tool used on this step:Plastic Cards$2.99
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Once the adhesive has had a couple minutes to soften, flip the iPad over, battery-side up.
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Insert a plastic card underneath the battery contacts.
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Push the card about an inch under the battery to begin breaking up the adhesive holding it in place.
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Slide the plastic card up along the edge of the battery until the card is even with the top edge of the battery.
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Insert a second plastic card underneath the battery contacts.
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Rotate the plastic card around the lower right corner of the battery to begin breaking up the adhesive along the lower edge.
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Slide the second card along the bottom edge of the battery to continue breaking up the adhesive holding it to the rear case.
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Push the plastic card about two inches underneath the battery, and lift it up to pry the first battery cell off the rear case.
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Remove the card from the bottom of the battery and slide it between the battery and rear case, along the side and underneath the seam where the two battery cells meet.
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Push the card as far underneath the battery as you can.
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Firmly grasp the first card you inserted underneath the battery and push it as far as you can underneath the battery.
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Slide a third card underneath the top edge of the battery, on the right side.
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Push the card in as far as it will go, breaking through as much of the adhesive underneath the battery as you can.
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Remove the card and slide it under the top edge of the battery again, on the left side near the edge of the iPad.
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Push the card in as far as it will go, breaking through as much of the adhesive underneath the battery as you can.
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Remove the card and again slide it under the top edge of the battery, near the center.
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Slide the card in as far as it will go, breaking through as much of the adhesive as you can.
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Lift up on the card to pry the second battery cell up from the rear case.
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