Introduction
Use this guide to replace the logic board in your iPad 9 LTE.
Note: this guide is for the LTE version only. For the Wi-Fi version, click here.
For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your iPad. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
The home button's Touch ID sensor is paired to the logic board. In order to retain Touch ID functionality, you'll need to transfer and glue the original home button to the new front panel assembly.
Be very careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily damaged, resulting in irreversible damage. If you choose to complete the guide without isolating the battery, avoid using metal tools except when completely necessary (like when removing screws) to prevent shorting the battery and damaging sensitive circuit components.
Some photos in this guide are from a different model and may contain slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the guide procedure.
What you need
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Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM card tray hole.
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Press the SIM eject tool into the SIM card tray hole to eject the SIM card tray.
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Remove the SIM card tray.
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Step 2 Heat the left edge
Careful: steps 2-28 are sourced from a guide that's marked as in-progress.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the iPad for two minutes.
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While you're waiting for the adhesive to loosen, note the following areas that are sensitive to prying:
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Front camera
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Ambient light sensors
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Antennas
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Display cables
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
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Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
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Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the left edge of the iPad.
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Insert an opening pick under the digitizer when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next step.
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Once the screen is warm to touch, apply a suction handle to the left edge of the screen and as close to the edge as possible.
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Lift the screen with the suction handle to create a small gap between the digitizer and the frame.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and the frame.
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Insert a second opening pick into the gap you just created.
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Slide the pick toward the bottom-left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the iPad for two minutes.
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Rotate the pick around the top-left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the front camera.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the iPad for two minutes.
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Rotate the pick around the top-right corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
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Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the iPad's right edge.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the iPad for two minutes.
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Slide the bottom-left pick to the bottom-left corner to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the corner before moving to the next step.
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Insert a new opening pick into the gap you just created on the bottom edge of the iPad.
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Slide the pick over the antenna, stopping just before the home button.
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Leave the pick to the left of the home button before continuing.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the iPad for two minutes.
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While supporting the digitizer, slide an opening pick between the two display cables to separate the last of the adhesive.
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Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove any tape covering the LCD screws.
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Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the four 4.2 mm screws securing the LCD screen.
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Insert a spudger between the frame and the top-right portion of the LCD.
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Pry slowly with the spudger to separate the adhesive.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.
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Flip the LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the frame.
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Lay the LCD on a clean, soft, lint-free surface to allow access to the display cables.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.3 mm-long screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
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Slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board's battery connector at a 35 degree angle.
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Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the display cable bracket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the LCD cable press connector.
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Remove the LCD completely and rest it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface.
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Use a pair of tweezers to peel off the tape covering the home button cable ZIF connector.
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Use a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two digitizer cable press connectors.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the buffer block near the bottom-right corner of the iPad.
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Remove the buffer block.
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Remove the front panel assembly.
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If you experience "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit replacement digitizers come with the proper insulation and should not require the addition of any tape.
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Carefully peel the LCD buffer tape from the upper component bracket.
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Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the five screws securing the the upper component bracket:
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Three 1.4 mm-long screws
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Two 1.9 mm-long screws
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the upper component bracket until you can grip it with your fingers.
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Peel off any tape covering the left ambient light sensor's ZIF connector.
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Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the sensor from the frame.
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Peel back any tape covering the headphone jack's press connector.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 3.3 mm-long screw securing the headphone jack from the frame.
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Use a pair of tweezers to pull the headphone jack out of its enclosure and remove it.
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Peel off any tape covering the front camera's ZIF connector.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger between the front camera and the frame.
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Gently pry up to separate the adhesive.
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Use tweezers to remove the front camera from its recess.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the cellular antennas to the rear case.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the right cellular antenna coaxial cable by prying up as close to the connector as possible.
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Repeat the procedure to disconnect the left antenna cable.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear camera by lifting straight up on the press connector.
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Peel off any tape covering the button control cable ZIF connector.
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Peel off any tape covering the Smart Cover sensor cable ZIF connector.
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Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the SIM card reader cable ZIF connector.
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Insert the pointed end of a spudger under the right antenna cable and lift straight up to disconnect it.
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Insert the pointed end of a spudger under the left antenna cable and lift straight up to disconnect it.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the buffer block at the bottom left corner of the iPad.
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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the buffer block.
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Use a pair of tweezers or your fingernail to peel up the tape covering the speaker connectors.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Smart Connector coaxial cable by prying up as close to the connector as possible.
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Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom left corner of the rear case for one minute to loosen the SIM card reader's adhesive.
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Use an opening tool to pry up on the bottom edge of the SIM card reader with a slow and steady force.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the charging port to the frame:
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Two 2.2 mm-long screws
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Two 3.2 mm-long screws
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Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom, top, and logic board side of the iPad for thirty seconds in each location.
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Insert an opening pick under the charging port cable near the charging port and slide it towards the logic board to cut the adhesive.
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Insert an opening pick under the upper arm of the logic board and slide it toward the logic board to cut the adhesive securing it to the rear case.
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Leave the opening pick inserted to keep the adhesive from re-adhering.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad 8 Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad 8 Answers community for help.
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